Owner's Review of the MacGregor 26 Sailboat Models

There is some confusion about all of the different MacGregor 26 models and some controversy about their sailing abilities.

The MacGregor 26 evolved after the Venture 22 and the MacGregor 25, which had been built from 1973 to about 1987. The M25 had a weighted centerboard keel like other trailer able sailboats but featured positive flotation, a low price, easy trailer ability and a comfortable interior with an enclosed head (porta-potty). These features carried forward into M26 models and helped make MacGregor one of the bestselling sailboats.

Differences in MacGregor 26 Models

  • The MacGregor 26D (daggerboard), built from about 1986 to 1990, introduced water ballast to replace the weighted keel. When the water was drained for trailering, the boat weighed only 1650 lbs, making it even more attractive for towing with a regular automobile. The daggerboard, like a keel, helps prevent the boat from being blown sideways but could be lifted up for shoal water and trailering.
  • The MacGregor 26S , 1990 to 1995, replaced the daggerboard with a swing centerboard (which kicks up in an accidental grounding) and made other smaller changes. Together, the 26D and 26S are often called the "classic" MacGregor 26, and sometimes the 26C. Owners of these earlier models tend to refer to them as "the real sailboats" prior to the changes coming with the MacGregor 26X.
  • The MacGregor 26X , 1996 to 2004, marked a major change from the earlier "classic" M26 models by allowing a relatively huge outboard engine that essentially turned the 26X into a powerboat with a mast. Earlier models typically carried outboards as low as 5 or 6 HP (max. 10 HP), but the 26X now took up to 50 HP. For comparison, many thirty-six foot sailboats of this era, displacing more than five times the M's weight, had inboard engines of 25-30 HP. The water ballast could be drained of power, allowing the M26X to come up on a plane like a speedboat. The outboard well had to be moved to the centerline, with twin rudders to each side, and steering changed from tiller to a small powerboat-type steering wheel. The cabin height was increased for greater room inside and the boat is said to sail less well than the earlier 26.
  • The MacGregor 26M (motorsailor), 2005 to present, continued the 26X's trend, now allowing up to a 60 HP outboard. The swing centerboard was replaced with a daggerboard to free up more space below and the second tier of windows was added with standing headroom. The boat is advertised to motor at 24 MPH. In addition to the water ballast, there are 300 lbs of permanent ballast, likely needed for stability with so much windage and the high weight of the engine. At 2550 lbs dry (excluding engine), it now needs stronger vehicle and tow package.

Risks and Precautions

Many traditional sailors joke about MacGregors because of the light fiberglass construction (the hull can "oilcan" flex in places if you push hard against it) and its powerboat characteristics since 1996. Many say it is not a "real sailboat." Most misunderstood, however, is the water ballast that has been a hallmark of all twenty-six models.

The water ballast tank is horizontal and only a foot or so beneath the surface, unlike a vertical ballasted keel or centerboard that extends much deeper. Some have even questioned how water, weighing the same as the water displaced by the boat, can be called ballast at all. The ballast tank has been well engineered, however, and does provide righting moment the same as a keel when the boat heels over, because the weight of water far out from the centerline on the "uphill" side (in the air once heeled over) does pull the boat back down the same as a weighted keel.

This does mean that the boat is more tender, or tippy, initially. A story has been told about a sailor on one edge of the deck who grabbed the mast when the boat heeled, and his own weight pulling on the mast that far above the waterline caused the boat to capsize all the way over. Whether true or not, the story illustrates a common perception of how tender the MacGregor is.

It is true that an M26 with 10 people aboard capsized with two fatalities -- most likely due to uneven distribution of the human weight on the boat.

Safely Sail the Water-Ballast

In normal conditions, however, careful sailors can safely sail the water-ballast M26 by following standard precautions:

  • Reef sails when the wind is blowing.
  • Maintain good balance with crew weight balanced against heeling.
  • Prevent accidental gybes.
  • Keep the ballast tank full and well-sealed.
  • Maintain steerage control at all times.
  • Heave to or take other storm action in high wind or waves.
  • Don't drink and sail.

The larger safety issue is that for many owners, the M26 is a "starter boat" and they may not have the experience or knowledge to avoid possible problems in time. The bottom line is that anyone who goes sailing needs to be fully aware of the limitations of their boat and practice all safety guidelines.

Experience With the MacGregor 26S

Having owned and sailed a 26S extensively for three years, it indeed sails fairly well and lives up to its reputation of being a roomy and easily trailered pocket cruiser. This sailboat can meet most budgetary needs and has room enough for a family of three to cruise for up to a week at a time.

It is a light boat, but with sailing experience and caution, trouble in winds to thirty knots can be easily avoided. The fiberglass is thin but you can avoid running into rocks. Thousands of MacGregor owners have had experiences where they thoroughly enjoyed sailing.

Keep in mind that it's a light boat and always take the precautions listed above. For powerboat owners of the 26X and 26M, the boat should be as safe as any powerboat but do not hit a rock or another boat at 24 MPH.

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  • By Matts G. Djos
  • Updated: March 5, 2008

26 ft sailboat interior

Arthur Marine, of Costa Mesa, California, introduced the Lyle Hess-designed Balboa 26 in 1969, billing it as the largest trailerable sailing cruiser on the market. Coastal Recreation took over production in about 1972 and closed its doors in 1981. But the boat continues to enjoy a strong following among budget-minded cruisers.

The hull is heavily built with hand-laid fiberglass, and the boat is reinforced at all stress points with marine plywood laminated to the hull, deck, and cabin top. An integral fiberglass hull liner provides additional strength. A few boats were built with a fixed keel and an inboard engine.

The self-bailing cockpit accommodates four people comfortably. Seat lockers provide plenty of storage, and a self-draining outboard-motor well is located aft, clear of all running rigging.

The teak-trimmed saloon has 5-foot-6-inch headroom. There’s a dinette to port that converts to a double berth, and a settee lies to starboard. A Balboa feature is the world map incorporated into the laminate tabletop. Shelves outboard to port and starboard provide storage, supplementing numerous other compartments located beneath the settee, the V-berth, and the dinette seats. A shag carpet was the standard cabin-sole covering; teak was an option.

The galley is directly under the oversize entry hatch. It contains an icebox and is fitted with an alcohol stove and a sink with a manual freshwater pump. The forward cabin has a partitioned area for a portapotti or an optional marine head, a hanging locker, and a double V-berth. This compact area also contains a sink and manual pump. A hatch provides fresh air, and on later models, port and starboard ports were added to admit more light. Nominally, five can sleep on the Balboa 26, but experience suggests that the optimum number is two or three.

Under sail, the Balboa 26 is quite stiff. The boat is fast and maneuverable, but it’s a handful for a novice sailor. The 26 has noticeable weather helm, and the tiller requires constant attention. As with most boats of this type, the swing keel has a tendency to rumble at hull speed, which is a little more than 6 knots.

The masthead-rigged spar stands on a hinged aluminum mast step and is supported by fore and aft lowers and in-line cap shrouds, which also brace it while it’s being raised or lowered. A 12:1 winch is used to raise and lower the 1,200-pound swing keel.

Although Balboa 26s have aged well, minor problems sometimes arise: The main chainplates are prone to leaks; the keel trunk is vulnerable around the pivot bolt and can be problematic in the event of grounding; water can splash in where the keel cable exits the trunk, especially in rough water. Some owners have reported the stainless-steel rudderstock bending or even breaking in a broach.

The builder listed the towing weight of the Balboa 26, including the tandem-axle trailer, at 4,500 pounds. However, when it was fully loaded for an extended cruise, our rig never weighed in at less than 6,500 pounds. Prices can range from $2,000 for a fixer-upper without a trailer to $10,000 for a combination that’s well equipped and nicely maintained.

Matts G. Djos and his wife, Jeanine, live in Colorado and have trailered their 1976 Balboa 26 to cruising grounds from the Pacific Northwest to the Golfo de California.

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The Pearson 26 One-Design : 1977–1983

Bill Shaw said "I took our proven Pearson 26 hull, gave her a new deck, moved the shrouds inboard for closer sheeting and voila — I had the perfect boat"

The Pearson 26 One-Design is in a class by herself - an alternative with the proven characteristics of her sisterships, the Pearson 26 and Pearson 26W . Both her sailing ability and her lines are beautifully balanced. Racing, cruising, day sailing. The best of all world at a price that defies analysis.

For some time now I've been wondering why there are no boats designed to appeal to the one design racer and the day sailor who's ready for cruising accomodations. The sailor I'm talking about is that type who doesn't want to give up round-the-buoy racing or have quick after supper before sundown sails. I figured there are hundreds of good sailors out there who can't afford a full blown cruising boat or don't want one because of the nature of the sailing they do. You know what I mean... probably day sailing, a few overnights, and a schedule of club racing. This kind of activity doesn't call for an expensive boat with all the amentities of an offshore cruiser. Rather it calls for a nice compromise between a performance one-design and an easily managed family cruiser... a beautifully finished boat with a big cockpit and low profile that still sleeps four and has provisions for a head and a galley. So I took our proven Pearson 26 hull, gave her a new deck, moved the shrouds inbound for closer sheeting and wallah… I had the perfect boat. Its everthing you need at a desireable price. Give the Pearson 26 OD some thought. Mention it to your friends at the club, start a fleet, Come Sail With Us…

Bill Shaw signature

Pearson 26 – By The Numbers

Specifications*.

LOA (Overall Length) 26.17' [7.98 m]
LWL (Waterline Length) 21.67' [6.61 m]
Beam 8.67' [3.12 m]
Draft 4.0' [1.22 m]
Displacement 5,200 lbs [2449 kg]
Ballast 2,200 lbs [998 kg]
Sail Area 321.78 sq ft [44.4 m²]
Mast Height (above D.W.L.) 35.16' [10.72 m]
Cockpit Length 8' 11"
Auxillary Power Outboard
Foretriangle Area 184.28 sq ft
Mainsail Area 137.5 sq ft
I – Foretriangle Height 31.5'
J – Foretriangle Base 11.7'
P – Mainsail Hoist 27.5'
E – Mainsail Foot 10.0'
*approximations from Pearson Yachts

Technical Data

Designer Bill Shaw
Years Built 1978 – 1983
Hull Speed 6.24 kn
SA/D – Sail Area to Displacement 16.74
DLR or D/L – Displacement to Length Ratio 237
BR – Ballast Ratio 40.75%
L/B – Length to Ballast 2.99
LWL/B – Waterline Length to Ballast 2.48
OR – Overhang Ratio 21%
CSF – Capsize Screening Formula 1.99
MCR – Motion Comfort Ratio 19.95
M/F – Main to Foretriangle Ratio 184
PHRF – Performance Handicap Rating 210 (average)

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Pearson 26 Resources

  • Pearson 26 Owners Guide
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Pearson 26 Sailing

  • Boat Review by John Kretschmer
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Pearson 26 One-Design Brochure

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Pearson 26OD

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C&C 26 Impressions

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Check out cncphotoalbum.com.  

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The original 26 was part of the same series including 29 MK1 and the 34 - some of the earliest cored-hull production boats from C&C. It's a roomy boat for it's length, a bit boxy-looking compared to the standard C&C fare of the day. All three boats were said to be 'tender', but sailed well by all reports. Not sure of the difference between that 26 and the 'Encounter'... only a year apart. The 26 Wave looks to be simply a shoal draft version of the 27 MK5.. virtually identical moldings and dimensions. Late 80s offering, good looking boats with crisp molding detailing on deck. I've not heard of people claiming tenderness for that boat, but in general most C&Cs sail quite well, as I'm sure you know. Hull speeds will be similar.. that's a function of length rather than design - esp when planing is not going to be involved.  

Faster, made a point about the hulls, and I checked my 'owners manual' and the 'Encounter' 26 has "Single unit moulded fiberglass, alternate layers mat and woven roving". The deck is "alternate layers hand laid up mat and roving, balsa cored". Maybe they changed things in later boats, I'll check with CnC Photoalburm, but that is what my book says. I'm thinking this is a good thing? I think she is a little tender, it doesn't take much to heel her over, but she does sail well. If under main only, a guest of about 15 will round her up, and nothing you can do to stop her, a good thing for stupid people like me who, 'THINKS' they are sailors! Look forward to hearing more about your boat.  

26 ft sailboat interior

I have a C&C 34, and while my experience is limited, I don't think of her as tender... more as spirited. I find she just likes to sail at 15-25 degrees over... almost no matter the wind speed. I had a problem of her rounding up in gusts, but now I just trim accordingly on a gusty day, and not much issue anymore. As for hull speed, I've had her above hull speed for consistent stretches, without feeling like I was on edge of control.  

26 ft sailboat interior

I like that..."spirited". C&C's traditionally are stiff boats. The construction as well as the use of the balsa helped with their frame strength and rigidty. It can be like different cars...some people love power steering...some like the feel of the road. With a C&C you will feel like you are sailing and you can respond accordingly. The tenderness is part that and part learning how to keep the boat on its feet without over trimming it or having too much sail area for conditions. While its fun to bury the rail at times, long term sailing and cruising for most on here not racing it would wear them out kept up over 6 hours time. Each boat you have the find whats its sweet spot is and how to reduce sail area and from which sail Our C&C 35 MKIII likes a full main and reefed headsail first, other boats handle differently. She is faster at 20 knots steady with a partially reefed 135 and full main, then leaving everything up and depowering or reefing the main. Different trails have taught me that. I have sailed a lot on all three of the 26 and they are fun boats. Quuality when built was good. Condition depends on the owners maintainence and upkeep program individual; for each boat. Dave  

If under main only said: That doesn't sound good -- I just sold my Mirage 26 which did very well at gusts of even 20 knots ( bottom of flags curl and white caps - right?) she was her best heeled over between 15 to 25 degrees. Just bought my C&C which was dry docked and had her shipped to my Marina -was impressed by the interior space, wide decks, diesel engine and also her wheel steering. Never had her in the water and can't wait until next spring but now I feel perhaps I should have done some research before handing over the bank draft. Click to expand...
That doesn't sound good -- I just sold my Mirage 26 which did very well at gusts of even 20 knots ( bottom of flags curl and white caps - right?) she was her best heeled over between 15 to 25 degrees. Just bought my C&C which was dry docked and had her shipped to my Marina -was impressed by the interior space, wide decks, diesel engine and also her wheel steering. Never had her in the water and can't wait until next spring but now I feel perhaps I should have done some research before handing over the bank draft. Click to expand...

No, you did not waste your money, the 26 is a great boat, my rounding up is because I only sail on main alone. Everyone will tell you CnC's are well built boats! Did not mean to give you any negative feelings about the 26, I love mine, as you say it has alot of room on deck, and below.  

I don't think you have anything to worry about. I'd rather have a boat that was lively enough to react to a puff than a dog that can't get out of her own way... C&C knew what they were doing. As long as all the usuals were checked/surveyed/dealt with you'll be just fine.  

Thanks .. felt a bit disappointed for a while but I'm over it. Why sail with main alone? When only going out for a quick sail I sometimes only put up the fore sail because putting up the main is a bit of a hassle for me.  

Ha, ha, I think the main is easy? My wife doesn't know anything about sail trim, so I try to K.I.S.S. for her. She is more of a rider than anything else. I would like to hear more owners input on the 26.  

I have a C&C 24 but have never seen a 26! I have a 26 Mirage and a 27 C&C near my boat and there are many 25's but on lake St. Claire where there many C&C's the 26 is elusive! My 24 is tender but well built and fun to sail! I like my marina neighbor's Mirage 26 and had offered to buy it before I bought mine several years ago. If the C&C 26 sails like it, it!s a nice all around boat( especially with it's diesel inboard and this guy has Rolly Tasker heavy duty sails)! My other neighbor has a 82 27 C&C he bought new over $30k and is still a great boat! WhAt years were the 26's made?  

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Balboa 26 Used Boat Test

Designed by lyle hess, this unsung, affordable pocket cruiser offers a big bang for the buck. capable of trailering to windward and skimming through shallow water, it offers all the versatility of todays trailer sailers at one-tenth of the price. the swing-keel hinge pin and rigging deserve a close look, however, and a cosmetic makeover can require some serious sweat equity..

26 ft sailboat interior

As with all of Lyle Hess designs, the Balboa 26 statistics reveal the underpinnings of a seaworthy coastal cruiser. The Balboas 3,600-pound displacement includes 1,200 pounds of ballast, by no means a lead mine, but the B26s 8-foot beam was carried well aft, and its reasonably full sections contributed form stability and helped make the little sloop a seakindly performer. With 293 square feet of working sail area, the B26 is close in potential performance to the Excalibur 26, Cal 25, and Columbia 26, all vaunted designs of the same era.

                                                   ***

The Balboa 26 is a bargain-priced pocket cruiser thats stood up well to the test of time. Even after three decades of use, these $4,000-$15,000 boats still remain a popular choice for those with a big dream and a small budget. Its swing keel, shallow draft, and ability to be trailered upwind to cruising destinations all over the country make it more versatile than your average 26-foot, plastic production boat.

Balboa 26 sailboat

Billy Black (www.billyblack.com)

Part of the mystique of the Balboa 26 is its birth on the drawing board of legendary pocket-cruiser designer Lyle Hess, whose love of small, functional cruising sailboats dates back to Blackfoot, Idaho, when a boy daydreamed of ocean sailing even though the Snake River was the only water in sight.

Finally arriving in Long Beach, Calif., in 1928, Hess and 11 siblings set out to carve a new life amidst a Southern California in transition. At 16, Hess designed and built a hard-chine, 17-foot, vest-pocket cruiser and explored Catalina Island with his brother, Lee. Boatbuilding proved to be a labor of love, but the housing boom associated with the end of World War II proved more lucrative. Lyle Hess dove in, spending the post war years as a family man, house builder, and part-time yacht designer.

The advent of fiberglass and collaboration with die-hard wooden boat aficionado Larry Pardey, moved Hess back into a full-time commitment to sailboat design. Pardey chose Hess Renegade design as the boat hed build and eventually sail with his partner, Lin.

At about the same time, Larry Pardey introduced Hess to Richard Arthur. Arthur saw him as the right designer to create a fiberglass “folk boat” in Southern California, and Arthur Marine kicked off production of the Hess-designed Balboa 20 and 26 in 1972. Their instant popularity lives on today.

A key part of the Hess design credo was that a sailboat must have the sea-keeping ability to take a crew offshore and return them home safely. As with all of his designs, the Balboa 26 statistics reveal the underpinnings of a seaworthy coastal cruiser. The Balboas 3,600-pound displacement includes 1,200 pounds of ballast, by no means a lead mine, but the B26s 8-foot beam was carried well aft, and its reasonably full sections contributed form stability and helped make the little sloop a seakindly performer. With 293 square feet of working sail area, the B26 is close in potential performance to the Excalibur 26, Cal 25, and Columbia 26, all vaunted designs of the same era. But with a swing keel, short rig, and retractable rudder that can morph 5 feet of draft into a 30-inch shoal water gunkholer, the Balboa 26 is both a skinny-water cruiser and a proficient coastal passage maker thats capable on all points of sail.

DECK LAYOUT

A molded toerail and nonskid pattern works in conjunction with cabinhouse handrails and a single lifeline to help insure that the crew stays on board. The trade-off associated with spacious accommodations is a wide cabinhouse that all but eliminates the sidedecks. Cleats and chocks are small but adequate, and the cockpit works well for a couple. Put more than three aboard, and theres a scramble to find deck space to alleviate the crowd in the cockpit.

Mid-Boom Sheeting

The mast step features a hinge that helps in the stepping and un-stepping process, an essential part of the trailer sailors routine.

The aft lower shrouds on these boats are set well inboard and fastened to a chainplate thats attached to the cabinhouse. The acute angle between the shroud and mast increases the loading on the wire and hardware.

A close, point-by-point inspection of the standing rigging should be carried out annually, and care needs to be taken while stepping and un-stepping the rig to make sure that the turnbuckles are not bent during the process. Most riggers feel that a 10-year lifespan is about all they can recommend for average recreational use. Many older boats have standing rigging twice that age, and relying on such rigging is sailing on borrowed time. Its a dangerous and costly wager to make. All it takes is for one small component to fail and the rig will end up over the side.

ACCOMMODATIONS

The layout aboard the Balboa 26 makes it a fine warm-weather boat, with a huge companionway hatch that opens up the interior and provides lots of light and air, a useful trait at anchor or sailing in light-air conditions. Shelter from sunlight can be provided by a convenient collapsible bimini top that arches over the cockpit and companionway. Its ideal when at anchor, but when underway it can creates excess windage.

The saloon is surprisingly spacious for a 26-foot boat. A dinette to port converts into a big berth, and when the table is up, it works as a nav station, dining table, and an all-around good spot to hangout, read, or swap yarns with cruising friends. This portion of the cabin has the feel of a bigger boat, despite the swing keel slot, which is well hidden by a molded liner shell. Pans and liners are a mixed blessing in that they offer a smooth surface for cleaning and aesthetics, but they hide access to parts of the inner hull skin and bilge that makes the cleaning or re-bedding of leaking hardware fasteners more difficult.

The galley is minimal: a one- or two-burner, fixed stove; small sink with an ice box to port; and a locker for pots and pans to starboard. Its basically enough space for a backpacker to feel pampered, but by no means an optimum set-up for those thinking of longer-term, comfortable cruises.

The same holds true of the head arrangement, which, in this era of discharge regulations, has evolved into a dedicated location for a port-a-potty. Its location adjacent to the V-berth offers ample motivation for frequent trips ashore, or at least a yearning for the days of a cedar bucket. Originally there was a marine head and a sink, but fitting a holding tank is tough. It still irks us that while the worst polluters can buy credits to comply with U.S. Environmental Protection Agency rules, sailors—an easy target, it seems—will never be able to exchange hours spent under wind propulsion for an overboard discharge or two in remote, well-flushed bodies of water. Trying to put a holding tank in a small vessel with barely enough room for a 20-gallon water tank almost inevitably gives a boat the ambiance of an outhouse.

PERFORMANCE

A couple of months ago, Practical Sailor had the chance to sail a 30-year-old Balboa 26 thats still being used by the Florida Keys Bareboat Charter Co. ( www.pagancharm.com ) in its active charter trade in Marathon, Fla. The fact that this old vessel can still be counted on to perform day in and day out is a real testimony to good boat design/building and the value of a simple, easy-to-refit sailboat.

As we cleared the tight confines of the small marina using the transom-mounted 9.8-horsepower, long-shaft outboard, we were reminded that the ease of “going sailing” is inversely proportionate to the size of the boat.

The outboard auxiliary performed well, but maneuvering in reverse took some practice. It became easier once we were accustomed to having a prop situated astern of the rudder rather than ahead of the blade. As we motored away from the marina, it was clear that an 8- or 9-horsepower outboard provided plenty of push. In fact, those interested in saving some weight, money, and fuel could do just fine with a 6-horsepower, long-shaft model.

All it took was the removal of a few sail ties and an easy halyard hoist, and the manageable mainsail was up and trimmed. A tug on the leeward jib sheet spun open a big, 150-percent genoa that was tamed by a Harken headsail furling system. It was a butter-smooth operating furler that was easy to deploy and retrieve.

Less than five minutes after leaving the dock, we were fully powered and reaching smoothly through the turquoise water of the Florida Keys, watching a dolphin slip by in the shallow water.

The 15-knot puffs were fine on a reach, but when we trimmed and steered closer to the wind, it was clear that a little less genoa would decrease heel and actually improve the boats ability to go to weather. We bore off, blanketed the genoa with the main in order to depower the sail and wind in a few turns on the furler. This reduced the genoa to about a 120-percent and made the beat more efficient, giving us a couple of tenths more boat speed with less heel. We had the swing keel almost all the way down, and the soft touch of the helm convinced us that the center of effort and center of lateral resistance were right where they belonged.

Balboa 26 Trailering

Off the wind, a cruising spinnaker would have livened up the show, but the big genoa did keep us moving efficiently until we steered deeper than about 135 degrees and the mainsail began to choke off the flow over the headsail. Rolling in some of the genoa and setting a whisker pole would be another good way to deal with deep sailing angles.

The boats responsive helm made each tack quick and efficient. Line leads, winches, and cleats were in the right places and with the fairly new set of sails, the 30-year-old sloop offered 90 percent of the performance of most new pocket cruisers, yet carried a price tag less than 25 percent of a new boat price.

CONCLUSIONS

The down side of an older boat, especially one with a swing keel, is that there are usually plenty of little things to fix. When it comes to the Balboa 26, the swing keel should regularly get a close look. This includes pulling the swing keels pivot pin every couple of seasons and inspecting it, as well as the surface that supports the load. The lift cable will eventually fray and will need replacement, along with the hand-crank winch used to hoist and lower the keel. Rigging wire and hardware may look fine, but after years—maybe decades—of use, it can be an accident waiting to happen. Any inspection of the standing rigging should also include a close look at the lifelines, stanchions, and pulpits.

Tackling the cosmetic refit of a three-decades-old sailboat is more about paint than polish. Gelcoat crazing, blisters, and cracks can be fixed with epoxy fillers and primers, and one- or two-part topcoat paints can yield a better-than-new finish if the applicators skills and availability are up to the challenge. Hiring a boatyard to do the job can cost more than the purchase price of the boat, so before you commit to a long-in-the-tooth Balboa 26 (or other oldie but goodie), determine three things: How extensive a refit is required; who will do the work; and how much it will cost. If your answers are, “entirely renew the finish on all exterior gelcoat, myself, and very little,” and you have minimal painting experience, we suggest the following: Buy an old, tired dinghy, such as a small Dyer or Montgomery, and give it the makeover you have in mind for the B26. If, when youre finished, you like what you see and you still enjoy the hands-on effort of the do-it-yourself approach, you are indeed ready for a bigger challenge. If you arent as enthused with the idea, consider a B26 that costs more but has already made the pilgrimage to the co-polymer fountain of youth.

One big plus of the Balboa 26 is Hess cult-like following, which has engendered active owners groups. Discussions range from traveler upgrades to great adventures of the sort that very few boats in this price range can offer.

  • Critic’s Corner: Balboa 26
  • Interior Notes: Balboa 26
  • Balboa 26 Construction Details
  • Balboa 26 In Context

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

The Balboa 26 “Resources” link above points to the obsolete Yahoo group. The active groups are: E-mail group: https://groups.io/g/BalboaSailboats Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/BalboaSailboats/

Thanks for the information on the E-mail and facebook. I just became the owner of a B26 that was abandoned in an aircraft hanger in central Indiana. the new owner of the hanger wanted it out of there and gave it to me, trailer and all. I’ve been able to obtain a LOST TITLE but have to get it to my place in north florida. lots of work to do as all teak is removed for refinishing. Not sure what all has to be done, as I’ve only been aboard Her one time. Will post what all I find as far as equiptment and condition. Thanks Again

I don’t know when I’ll get the boat moved to Jacksonville,Fl. I’m 81 now and have crossed over to the Abacos 9 times, all but 1 were deliveries. ‘Once in my OWENS 25 FT. cabin cruiser. Not sure I want to do it again at my age. Sometimes one has to get around on deck quickly. 20 years ago I’d cross with this boat assuming all works out with the refit. My wife says NO!! even though we have a 50 year old step son who’d like to do it. Some sea trials might come into play. We’ll cross that strait if We get to it.

Hey Charles. How are you doing? Im from Brazil, me and couple of mates are planing on sailing from florida to brazil. We are planing the trip. Do you know of a good place in florida were we could do some “repar work” before departing? We planning onto pick up a Balboa 26″ in CA drive to florida. Thanks in avance Davi

Has anyone out there done a total rework of the mast step on-a 74 Balboa.?

I probably would never take mine further than I could swim to shore. However, my Aquarius 23, thats a different story. Only a small portion of the ballast is in the swing keel. The bulk of the lead is incapsulated inside.

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Pearson 26 is a 26 ′ 2 ″ / 8 m monohull sailboat designed by William Shaw and built by Pearson Yachts between 1970 and 1983.

Drawing of Pearson 26

  • 2 / 16 Mount Sinai, NY, US 1976 Pearson 26 $4,200 USD View
  • 3 / 16 Danvers, MA, US 1972 Pearson 26 $3,000 USD View
  • 4 / 16 Mount Sinai, NY, US 1976 Pearson 26 $4,200 USD View
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Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

  • SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
  • D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
  • LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
  • LOA: Length overall in feet
  • Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

The PEARSON 26 was one of the company’s most successful models. A number of changes were made during a very long production run. The PEARSON 26 WEEKENDER (or PEARSON 26W) has a longer cockpit and shorter coach roof. With a few very rare exceptions, all PERSON 26’s have outboard wells and rely on an outboard motor for auxiliary power. Some boats were built at League City, TX (USA). Dimensions from original Pearson brochure (1974) *(Exact ‘P’ dimension is disputed. - 2009)

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COMMENTS

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