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How to Measure for a New Headsail (Jib or Genoa)

25 April 2017

Ask Precision Sails , Hardware , Headsail , Measurements , Sails , Technical Tags: Head Sail Measurements , How to Measure for a Head Sail , New Sail Meaurements

Purchasing a new Head Sail for your sailboat is one of those investments that every sailor will be faced with eventually. Sails don’t last forever, even if you treat them like gold. Once you have decided to invest in new sails you may get that feeling of being over whelmed by the choices and the details involved. When deciding on a loft to work with make sure you choose a loft that will offer a good consultation on the cloth and sail feature choices as well as a design consultation if you want one. Don’t be scared into paying extra for a sail just because your local loft tells you it’s hard to measure. You do not need the added expense of having someone come to your boat and measure for your new sail. If you can read a tape measure you can measure your boat for a new Jib or Genoa.

Measurements Required for a New Head Sail:

Rig Specs – The first thing that you are going to want to find are the General Rig Specs I,P,J,E for your boat. You can get these from your boat manufacturer, online or in your boat manual. These will be used to ensure that the loft you are working with has quoted you the correct size of sail and to ensure that when you take your measurements they are accurate.

Existing Head Sail – Measure your existing Jib or Genoa sail’s general dimensions. Luff (leading edge of your sail), Leech (trailing edge of your sail) and the Foot of your sail. These measurements will be used to compare the measurements that you take from your rig to ensure that everything is working out well. It will also give your designer an idea of what the current sail size is.  If you are ordering a sail that is going to add to your inventory of head sails the only measurement that is of benefit is the luff length.

Rig Measurements – Now we are going to get onto the boat and start to take the measurements of the rig as it sits today. This will ensure that your sail designer is designing a sail for your boat and not the boat that it started as. The two measurements that are required are the I measurement and the J Measurement. The I is the the distance from your the top of your halyard to the base of your mast. This is taken by hauling a tape measure up your halyard until it reaches the top and measuring straight down to the base of your mast.  While you have your tape at the top take the time to also measure the maximum luff length by measuring to the attachment on your furler or on the deck (hank on sails). The J measurement is done by measuring from the base of the mast to the attachment of your fore stay.

How to Measure the Maximum Luff Length of your Genoa or Jib

Now that we have the basic dimensions for your sail it’s time to get into the details that will ensure that your sail will fit the day it arrives.

Luff Specifications: Furling Head Sail or Hank On

Furling head sails attach to your furling system using luff tape.  It is a cord or rope warped inside of a tape.  Each Furling System will have a specific luff tape size that will slide nicely up the track without coming out while under force.

The best way to measure the tape is to use Calipers that can measure in millimeters.  If you don’t have a set use a set of drill bits and either slide them up the track in your furling system or hold them up to the luff tape on your existing sail to determine the proper size.

Luff Tape Specification chart below: 

Track Measurements:

Your sail designer will want to know where your tracks start and stop to ensure that the new sail will be designed with the proper sheeting angles. Attach your tape to the base of the fore-stay and measure to the start and the end of each set of tracks.

J Measurement Video:

Track Measurement Video:

Water Line Measurement:

A good measurement to provide your sail designer is the distance from the waterline to the fore-stay and from the waterline to the base at your chain plates.  These measurements will let your designer ensure the clew height of new Jib or Genoa.

Press Play below to see all the Precision Sails How To Measure for a new Head Sail Videos:

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A Complete Guide to The Genoa Sail And How To Use It

The Genoa is massively used in sailing, usually teamed up by a mainsail. It’s a triangular sail attached to the forestay that’s easy to work with in any conditions, from light to moderate winds and beyond. I love my Genoa because it is so easy to handle, and when sailing on any point of sail with the wind behind the mast, it does a great job even without the mainsail set.

Today, I’ll explain what the Genoa sail actually is (many people actually mistake it for a Jib, but more on that later) what we use it for and how it actually works. I’ll also talk a bit about what materials they’re usually made of and teach you about the different parts.

To wrap things up, I’ll share some handy tips on how to keep your Genoa in tip-top shape to make it last as long as possible. For trust me, investing in a new one is an expensive affair that I can testify to!

What is a Genoa sail, and what do we use it for?

Let me begin with the basics, just in case you’re unfamiliar with sails. A Genoa is a headsail extending past and overlapping the mast. Genoas are typically larger than 115% of the foretriangle, with sizes varying between 120% and 150%.

This sail is often combined with a smaller main sail on masthead-rigged bluewater vessels but is also common on modern fractionally rigged vessels.

The Genoa is durable, versatile, and usable on all points of sail. There are better options for those who mainly sail upwind, like the Jib, but it is hard to beat for the extra canvas it provides when you turn around and sail downwind. As a result, the Genoa is standard on most modern sailing vessels and is truly a multi-purpose sail.

As I said in the beginning, it’s worth mentioning a common misunderstanding where the terms Genoa and Jib get mixed up. Many people call any headsail a Jib, which is a misinterpretation. I personally prefer to use the correct terminology to avoid any confusion, especially if you carry both on board. You can learn more about the Jib sail in this article.

Tip : If you want to use a simpler word for Genoa, “Genny” works well!

How the Genoa works on a sailboat

The Genoa provides a sail area forward of the mast , aiding in steering and balancing the boat effectively. It is usually flown together with the mainsail to catch the wind’s energy and push the boat forward, but it also works great on its own, especially when sailing any downwind angles.

The sail is curved, creating a pressure difference when exposed to the wind while sailing at closer angles than 90 degrees. The outer, rounded side (leeward side) has lower pressure than the inner, hollowed side (windward side).

This pressure difference creates lift, propelling the boat forward like how an airplane wing produces lift. On any lower angle than 90 degrees, the sail acts like a parachute to move the boat forward.

In simpler terms, I like to look at the Genoa as one of the boat’s main engines. You usually have a diesel engine onboard as well, but since it is a sailboat, you’d prefer to sail it, right?

How to rig a Genoa

The Genoa is rigged on either a furling system or directly to the forestay. Most modern sailing boats have a furling system, a long sleeve that runs from the top of the mast down to the bow and attaches to a drum on the bottom and a swivel on the top. The process for rigging a Genoa and a Jib is the same.

Let us take a look at the step-by-step process on how to rig the Genoa ready to sail onto a furling system:

• Feed the Genoa’s luff into the track on the furler’s sleeve with the top of the sail first and connect the head ring on the sail to the chackle on the swivel.
• Attach the Genoa halyard to the swivel and hoist the sail up. 
• When the sail is hoisted almost all the way to the top, you attach the sail’s tack to a shackle on the top of the drum. 
• Put the halyard on a winch and winch it  tight.
• Now you have to manually roll up the sail around the forestay and tie on the two sheets to the clew of the sail.
• Lead the two sheets on each side of the vessel’s side decks through the sheet cars, turn blocks, and back to the winches .
• Now that the sail is furled away, we need to tie the furling line onto the drum. You have to figure out how the furling line attaches, as it differs from system to system.
• Once the furler line is attached to the drum, ensure that it can wrap itself up freely.
• Pull the sail back out using one of your sheets and monitor that the furling line wraps on nicely.
• Leed the furling line through the blocks and funnels, through the jammer , and leave it next to the winch.
• Furl the Genoa away again using the furling line and ensure that the sheets run freely as you monitor your sail getting wrapped nicely around the forestay.
• Secure the furler line jammer and tidy up your two sheets. Make sure to secure the sheets around the winches.

It is easy to understand why most sailing vessels use furling systems. I wouldn’t want to be without one. They make sail handling such a breeze! You can learn more about the sailboats standing rigging here.

How to use, reef, and trim a Genoa

To use the Genoa, you wrap the furler line around the winch , open the jammer, and pull on either of the sheets, depending on which tack you are sailing on.

You want to keep a hold on to the furler line to prevent the sail from unfurling itself uncontrollably, especially in strong winds.

You can now unfurl the entire sail or just a part of it. Adjust your car position and tighten the sheet once the whole sail, or the desired amount, is out.

How to furl and reef a Genoa

To furl or reef the Genoa, you do the opposite of unfurling it. Ease off the working sheet, but keep it on the winch. At the same time, pull in on the furler line either manually or on the winch.

Remember to move the cars forward and re-tighten the sheet if you are reefing away only a part of the sail. Reef earlier rather than later if the wind starts to pick up. More force in the sail only makes the task harder, and you risk overpowering your boat. Talk to any sailor and the first advice you’ll get is “reef often and reef early”.

When you’ve tried dipping your toe-rail underwater and had everything down below deck shuffled around in a mess, you’ll understand what I mean! (Yes, been there, done that…)

How to trim a Genoa

Adjusting the sheet cars and sheet tension is vital to obtaining an optimal sail shape in the Genoa. Finding this balance is what we call  sail trim . We’re not going to dig too deep into sail trim in this article, but here is a rule of thumb:

You want the leech and foot of the sail to form an even “U” shape on any  point of sail . When sailing upwind, you usually move the car aft. When bearing off the wind, you move the car forward.

The goal is to apply even tension on both the foot and the leech. When you reef the sail, you’ll also want to move the car forward to adjust for the reduced sail area. Sailing downwind doesn’t require the same fine-tuning as upwind sailing, making trimming easier. But keep an eye on the wind and reef before things get out of control!

Here are a few tips when sailing upwind:

• Winch up the Genoa sheet until the leech stops fluttering and the foot has a sweet, even “U” shape. 
• You want to move the sheet car  forward  if the foot is tight and the  leech  flutters.
• Move the sheet cars  aft  if the leech is tight and the  foot  flutters.
• If the wind increases and the boat starts to  heel  excessively, you can either ease off the sheet or adjust your course more head to wind. 

You should play around and experiment with sail trim, as every boat behaves differently. Trimming sails is an art that takes time to master. Staysails, Jibs, and Genoas are trimmed similarly, but the car positions will differ due to their size and shape differences. Once you learn how to trim a Genoa, you can trim any headail.

Sailing with more than one Genoa

Navigating with multiple Genoa’s is great on extended downwind journeys. Most furling systems come with dual tracks, making it possible to fly two Genoa’s on a single furler, which again makes reefing a simple task. This arrangement can also be replicated or combined with Yankees and Jibs if you have several headsails onboard.

Certain boats are equipped with two or more forestays, allowing them to have two separately furled headsails. This configuration is often referred to as a cutter rig. Although most cutter rigs utilize a Staysail on the inner forestay and a Yankee sail on the outer, this flexible rig provides the liberty to explore a variety of setups.

Exploring the different parts of the Genoa

Head:  The head is the top corner of the Genoa. It typically has a ring in the top corner that attaches to the Genoa halyard or the top swivel for furling systems.

Leech:  The leech is the aft part of the sail, located between the clew and head. 

Luff : A Genoa’s luff is the front part between the tack and head. Genoa’s are often equipped with  luff foam  to help maintain their shape when partially reefed on a furler.

Clew : The clew is the aft lower corner of the Genoa where the sheets are attached.

Tack : The tack is the lower, forward corner of the Genoa. The tack is connected to a furler drum on the forestay on most sailboats. Vessels using traditional hank-on headsails tie the tack to a fixed point on the bow.

Foot : The foot of the Genoa is the bottom portion of the sail between the clew and the tack.

Telltales:  Telltales are small ropes, bands, or flags attached to the front of the Genoa’s leech to help us understand how the wind affects the sail and allow us to fine-tune the trim for optimal performance.

Commonly used materials for the Genoa

The most common material for Genoa’s today is Dacron woven polyester, closely followed by CDX laminate. Continuing up the price range, we find woven hybrids like Hydranet, Vectran, Radian, and other brands.

Next, we have more advanced laminates infused with exotic materials like aramids, carbon, and Kevlar. Peeking at the top of the line, we find the latest technology in DFi membrane sails like Elvstrøms EPEX or North Sails 3Di. These sails come at a premium price tag, though.

Modern technology has given us more economical alternatives to traditional Dacron sail fabric. Warp-oriented woven cloth is becoming popular due to its increased ability to keep shape over time without stretching to the same degree as traditionally cross-cut dacron sails.

ProRadial, made by Contender and Dimension Polyant, is a good example and is what I went for when I ordered a new Genoa and main for Ellidah.

North Sails has an  excellent article  that goes in-depth on sail materials.

The difference between a Genoa and a Jib sail

The difference between a Genoa and a Jib is that the Genoa is a headsail that   extends past the mast and   overlaps the mainsail, while the Jib is non-overlapping. The Jib is a smaller sail that is even easier to handle and works excellently when sailing close-hauled and  pointing upwind.  

The larger Genoa also works well upwind but  excels  on any  points of sail  with the wind behind the beam. The Genoa is usually between 120% and 150%, while the Jib is typically between 90% and 115% of the foretriangle size. Both of these sails can be used interchangeably on furling and traditional hank-on systems.

How to Maintain and Care for Your Genoa

Proper maintenance and care of your sails will ensure they operate at their best while minimizing wear and tear. They’ll keep their performance better, make your trip more enjoyable, and you can slap yourself on the shoulder in good consciousness, knowing that you’re taking good care of your equipment. It will save you money in the end, too, which is always nice .

Here are some guidelines on how to preserve and safeguard your Genoa:

• Regularly rinse the sail with fresh water and allow it to dry thoroughly before storing it. Ensuring it’s dry will fend off moisture and mildew accumulation.
• Annually service the sail. Inspect for any compromised seams and mend them as needed. If you spot any chafing marks, reinforce the sail with patches at chafe points and add chafe guards to the equipment it comes into contact with. Typically, the spreaders and shrouds
• Shield the sail from UV rays by storing it properly when not in use. A furling Genoa can be safeguarded by adding a UV strip to the foot and leech.

Check out  this article  to learn more about how to extend the lifespan of your sails.

Final words

Now that we have looked at the Genoa and its functions, you should pack your gear, set sail, and play around with it. Familiarize yourself with how the boat behaves on both tacks, and practice your reefing techniques.

I always stress the importance of reefing; if you don’t understand why now, you certainly will before you know it!

If you still have questions, check out the frequently asked questions section below or drop a comment in the comment field. I’ll be more than happy to answer any of your questions!

PS: Explore more sails in my easy guide to different types of sails  here .

Exploring The Most Popular Types Of Sails On A Sailboat

FAQ – The Genoa Sail Explained

What is the foretriangle on a sailboat.

The foretriangle on a sailboat refers to the triangular area formed between the mast, forestay, and deck. This triangle is 100%. If you want to order a new headsail, you’ll have to measure and supply the sailmaker with these measurements.

What is the difference between Headsail, Jib, and Genoa?

A headsail or foresail is a generic term for any sail set before the mast. In other words, the Jib, Genoa, and Yankee are all what we call a headsail. Their difference lies in their respectable sizes, shapes, and utility on a sailing yacht.

What is the difference between a Spinnaker and a Genoa?

The Spinnaker and Genoa are distinct types of sails used on sailboats, each serving different purposes and being suitable for various sailing conditions. 

Here are the primary differences between them:

• A Genoa is designed to be used on all points of sail, while the Spinnaker is made to be used on deep angles between 120 and 180 degrees.
• The Genoa is relatively flat, while the Spinnaker is shaped more like a balloon and is used in light-wind conditions to capture as much wind as possible.
• The Spinnaker is much larger than a Genoa and is typically made in a thin nylon fabric. The Genoa, conversely, is made of sturdier materials, making it more durable in stronger wind.
• The Genoa is easier to handle and operate as the Spinnaker requires the use of a pole to extend its clew to the vessel’s side.
• While the Genoa can be reefed to adjust for different wind strengths, the Spinnaker is either fully set or fully taken down.
• The Spinnaker is excellent for downwind sailing in a breeze but can be a challenge to operate and take down when the wind increases.
• A Spinnaker usually looks better than a Genoa as it often comes in many beautiful color combinations.

The Spinnaker and the Genoa are both great sails. But as with other tools, they serve different purposes.

Why is a genoa sail called a genoa?

The name “Genoa” traces back to the Italian yachting hub of Genova. The Swedish sailor Sven Salén was the great uncle of The Ocean Race Managing Director Johan Salén. During the Coppa di Terreno race in 1926, Sven Salén modified an existing Jib to craft an overlapping Jib, now known as the Genoa sail.

His innovation proved successful as he scored a victory in the race. The sail then got named ‘Genoa’ as a tribute to the city where this historical sailing innovation was invented.

Is it OK to sail with just the Jib?

The Genoa is an excellent sail to fly by itself, especially on deep angles where the mainsail can block the wind. It also works on other points of sail on its own, but combining it with the mainsail will provide better balance in your boat and possibly prevent excessive weather helm. I often sail with just the Genoa when broad-reaching in moderate to strong wind.

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Skipper, Electrician and ROV Pilot

Robin is the founder and owner of Sailing Ellidah and has been living on his sailboat since 2019. He is currently on a journey to sail around the world and is passionate about writing his story and helpful content to inspire others who share his interest in sailing.

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The Genoa Sail: A Guide

Genoa Sails are an essential addition to any sailboat’s gear. They provide extra sail area and power for improved boat performance and efficiency. This guide will help you learn about the different types of Genoa Sails, how to choose the perfect one for your sailboat, and tips for optimizing its performance and care.

Key Takeaways

• Genoa Sails are large headsails designed for light to moderate winds that produce lift and power for improved speed and performance.
• There are several types of Genoa Sails, ranging from the standard genoa to the roller furling genoa, each suitable for different applications.
• Larger sails offer more power but require more skill to handle while smaller sails are easier to manage.
• Dacron and laminated sailcloth are commonly used for making Genoa Sails, though materials like Kevlar and carbon fiber can also be employed.
• Careful handling of tacking and jibing should be observed in order to prevent luffing or loss of efficiency.

What is a Genoa Sail?

The Genoa Sail is a type of headsail larger than the jib and commonly used to sail in light to moderate winds. It’s characterized by its size and overlapping design, which allows it to catch more wind and gain greater power than smaller headsails.

Genoa Sails are ideal for cruising or long-distance sailing, as they provide better speed and performance while still being easy to handle.

One of the key advantages of the Genoa Sail is its ability to generate lift, pushing the boat forward and helping maintain velocity in light wind conditions. Its curved shape creates this lift, producing an airfoil effect, resulting in both push and drag.

The Genoa Sail permits greater control and maneuverability as it can be adjusted and trimmed accordingly. This makes it highly versatile, so it can be used on different occasions, from casual sailing to high-performance racing.

Types of Genoa Sail

There are several types of Genoa Sails, each with unique characteristics and advantages. The sail types include the standard genoa, the high clew genoa, the overlapping genoa, and the roller furling genoa.

The Standard Genoa

The Standard Genoa is the most typical type of Genoa Sail, designed for light to moderate winds and characterized by its moderate size with an overlapping design. This overlap typically ranges from 110% to 150%, enabling the sail to catch more wind and deliver more significant power than a smaller jib yet still be gentle enough to manage.

The Standard Genoa is highly versatile, suitable for up and downwind sailing and in different wind conditions, from light to moderate. Its ease of control also makes it great for sailors of various skill levels.

To ensure optimal performance, however, proper trimming and adjustment must be made; this entails adjusting the angle of the sail to the wind, controlling the tension on the halyard lines and sheets, and making adjustments to the leech and foot.

When done correctly, this can lead to excellent speed and performance, which is why it’s such a helpful sail in any sailor’s toolkit.

The High Clew Genoa

Featuring a higher clew than the Standard Genoa, the High Clew Genoa offers better control and maneuverability and improved visibility from the cockpit. It’s beneficial in light wind as it catches more wind and produces more power.

To reach optimal performance, however, some adjustments to the sail’s rigging and trim have to be done; this includes ensuring the halyard and sheets are properly tensioned for better sail shape and angle of attack.

Despite these requirements, the High Clew Genoa is still straightforward to handle, making it suitable for sailors of any skill level. With its improved performance in lighter winds, this type of Genoa Sail can be a great addition to any sailor’s toolkit, particularly those who often go on cruising or long-distance sailing trips.

The Overlapping Genoa

The Overlapping Genoa is a larger and more powerful version of the Standard Genoa, with an overlap between the sail and mast that ranges from 110% to 150%. This design allows for enhanced lift and power, perfect for racing and high-performance sailing.

With this kind of sail comes a higher level of difficulty in controlling it in more intense winds, so it is better suited for experienced sailors.

Despite its challenges, the Overlapping Genoa remains popular among those looking to get maximum speed and performance from their vessel. Its increased size and power can provide a significant boost in racing scenarios in which every second counts, and experienced sailors push their limits.

For optimal results, however, proper trimming and adjustment are essential; this includes ensuring the sail’s angle to the wind, halyard tension, and sheet tension are all correctly balanced for a practical shape without supporting too much power or getting damaged.

The Roller Furling Genoa

The Roller Furling Genoa is designed to be easily rolled and stored when not in use, making it convenient and easy to deploy or stow. It’s a popular choice for cruising and recreational sailing due to its simple handling and decreased need for physical labor.

However, its design also limits its performance capabilities compared to other types of Genoa Sails; it can get overpowered in high winds, reducing power and efficiency. As such, this sail is not generally used for racing or high-performance sailing, as these scenarios require maximal speed and performance.

Despite these drawbacks, the Roller Furling Genoa retains popularity among sailors who appreciate its ease of use. However, sailors must take good care of the sail with proper maintenance and consider its limitations when planning their sailing trips.

Genoa Sail Sizes

The size of a Genoa Sail is defined by its relationship to the boat’s foretriangle, which is the triangle between the mast, forestay, and deck. The sail typically ranges from 110% to 150% of the foretriangle, with greater overlap increasing power and lift.

The size of a Genoa Sail can, therefore, significantly affect the boat’s performance and handling. A larger sail can give more power and lift, making it suitable for racing and high-performance sailing; however, this comes at the cost of needing more experience for proper handling, particularly in high winds.

In contrast, smaller sails are easier to control and manage, making them ideal for cruising and recreational sailing; plus, they prove more efficient in higher winds as it generates less drag and won’t overpower the boat.

When deciding on a sail size, it’s essential to examine your boat , including its size, design and intended use. Larger sails may be necessary for race or high-performance scenarios but can be too challenging to manage while traveling; conversely, smaller sails may be better suited for cruising yet could lack enough power or lift when going all out.

Genoa Sail Construction

Dacron is a commonly used material for Genoa Sails as it is durable, easy to handle, and affordable, making it ideal for cruising and recreational sailing.

For more performance-oriented use, such as racing or high-performance sailing, laminated sailcloth (a combination of multiple synthetic fibers with an adhesive) is often employed. It’s lightweight and has higher performance characteristics though special care may be required.

Advanced materials that have been gaining traction in the field are Kevlar and carbon fiber; they provide remarkable strength and durability, which makes them perfect for intense situations, but they cost a lot more money than conventional materials.

Today’s sails employ advanced techniques like radial or tri-radial panels, helping to distribute loads evenly across the sail and heighten performance even further.

Handling Genoa Sails

Proper trimming of the Genoa Sail is essential for creating lift and power and preventing stalling or inefficiency. This involves adjusting the halyard tension to obtain the right sail shape and ensuring that the sheets are correctly tensioned to control the angle of the sail relative to the wind. To adjust the angle of the sail relative to the boat, sailors can move the sheets in or out or change the position of cars or tracks.

Reefing is used when there are high winds, whereby reducing sail size prevents overpowering. This is usually done by partially furling it around the forestay or removing part of it with reefing lines. The reduction depends on wind conditions and boat size; typically, 20-30% should be reduced to maintain control and stability while avoiding damage to rigging and sails.

Once reefing has been done, it’s essential to ensure proper trimming afterward to optimize performance. This includes adjusting halyard tension, sheets, and angle of attack accordingly to achieve an optimal level of sail shape relative to the wind .

Finally, tacking and jibing involve turning through wind direction to change course – these maneuvers must be carefully handled so that luffing or loss of efficiency does not occur.

Difference between Genoas and other sail types

Jibs are an alternative to Genoa Sails, typically used in higher wind conditions and hanked onto the forestay instead of roller-furled. They are smaller than Genoa Sails and generate lift and power as effectively.

Code Zero sails can generate lift and power for light wind conditions, even with very little wind. These sails are larger than Genoa Sails and have a unique shape, making them ideal for racing and high-performance sailing.

Finally, spinnakers are downwind sails designed to capture the wind from behind the boat. These are usually much larger than Genoa Sails, making them perfect for racing or high-performance sailing where speed and efficiency matter.

Genoa Trim and Performance

Maximizing performance for a Genoa Sail involves adjusting the sail’s angle to the wind to achieve the best possible sail shape and angle of attack. This can be accomplished by adjusting the sheets, halyard tension, and sail angle relative to the boat. Proper trimming is essential for creating lift and power while preventing stalling or loss of efficiency.

Optimizing sail shape is another helpful tip for maximizing Genoa Sail performance. This can be done by adjusting the tension and position of the sail to get the right amount of shape and angle relative to the wind. Achieving proper sail shape is crucial for generating lift and power and preventing stalling or loss of efficiency.

Adjusting where necessary, twist is also essential in improving Genoa Sail performance. Twist refers to the difference between the top and bottom angles of the sail, influencing efficiency and power levels. By tinkering with twist, one can optimize their sails performance while generating more lift and power.

Finally, proper maintenance should not be overlooked when it comes to achieving peak performance from a Genoa Sail, and regularly inspecting for damage or wear, cleaning/drying after use, and storing correctly when not in use are all critical steps toward ensuring optimal functioning now and into the future.

Genoa Sails are an invaluable and essential part of any sailboat’s inventory, significantly impacting the performance and efficiency of the vessel. Different types of Genoa Sails exist, each with distinct characteristics and purposes for particular sailing environments. Consequently, selecting the correct sail for your specific needs is essential.

When choosing a Genoa Sail, factors such as use, size, fabric type, and construction quality should all be considered. Additionally, proper maintenance and care of your sail are paramount if you want to reap its full potential over the long term.

Maximizing your Genoa Sail performance can be achieved by adequately adjusting the angle and shape of the sail, optimizing twist when necessary, and consistently maintaining good practice with regard to upkeep.

Genoa Sail FAQs

Q: What is a Genoa Sail, and what is it used for?

A: A Genoa Sail is a large triangular sail deployed on a sailboat’s head stay. It provides additional sail area and power, ideal for light to moderate wind conditions. It is commonly used for cruising, racing, and offshore sailing.

Q: What are the different types of Genoa Sails?

A: Different types of Genoa Sails include standard Genoas, high clew Genoas, overlapping Genoas, and roller furling Genoas.

Q: How do I choose the right size Genoa Sail for my boat?

A: The size of the Genoa Sail depends on several factors, such as the type and size of the boat, sailing conditions, and personal preferences. Selecting an appropriately sized sail to maximize performance and safety on the water is essential.

Q: How do I trim a Genoa Sail for optimal performance?

A: Trimming a Genoa Sail requires adjusting its angle to the wind to achieve the best possible sail shape and angle of attack. This can be accomplished by manipulating its sheets, halyard tension, and angle relative to the boat. Proper trimming allows lift and power generation while preventing stalling or loss of efficiency.

Q: How do I maintain and care for my Genoa Sail?

A: Effective maintenance for a Genoa Sail entails regular inspection, cleaning (after use), storage (when not being used), as well as paying attention to age/condition. Inspecting your sail regularly for any damage or wear; cleaning it after each use; storing it safely when not in use; replacing it if necessary to attain peak performance with optimum safety standards.

Q: How do Genoa Sails differ from other types of sails?

A: In comparison with other types of sails such as jibs, code zeros, or spinnakers, differences between them include size (Genoas are larger), shape (Genoas are more triangularly shaped) as, well as intended use (light-moderate winds).

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How to determine Genoa size?

• Thread starter Jimongee
• Start date Sep 10, 2023
• Brand-Specific Forums

The sellers of my 1987 C & C left an extra headsail onboard for me. I may want to sell it. However I do not have a clue (not clew) about what % this sail might be. I laid it out and these are the dimensions: Luff= 44’/ Leech=41‘/ Foot=15’; Is there a formula to determine sail %?  

Davidasailor26

You’ll need to take one more measurement for that - the Luff Perpendicular (LP). That’s the distance from the clew to the nearest point on the luff. (It’s along a line perpendicular to the luff, thus the name). The sail percentage is the percentage of that LP relative to the boat’s J dimension. J is the distance from the front of the mast to a point in space directly above the base of the forestay, and you can generally look that up for the boat model.  

I wasn't the best geometry student but isn't a jib basically a triangle? I don't think the hypotenuse (Leech) can be shorter than either of the legs (luff or foot). If the luff were the 41' then by the formula, A2 + B2 = C2 , the leech would be 43.6' or likely the 44' length. Are those dimensions reversed? I wouldn't sell any sail until I had a season of sailing the boat under my belt.  

shemandr said: I wasn't the best geometry student but isn't a jib basically a triangle? I don't think the hypotenuse (Leech) can be shorter than either of the legs (luff or foot). If the luff were the 41' then by the formula, A2 + B2 = C2 , the leech would be 43.6' or likely the 44' length. Are those dimensions reversed? Click to expand

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

I’ve understood that the percentage label is based on the relationship between the boat’s fore triangle formed by the mast, foredeck, and forestay. And the area measurement of the fore sail. A sail that is smaller than the area is called a jib. A sail larger than the area is referred to as a genoa. The percentage label is shorthand for the relative size of the genoa or jib based on the specific boat.  

Foresail - MITNA

Davidasailor26 said: It’s a triangle, but not a right triangle, so the Pythagorean theorem does not apply. You could split it into two right triangles, along the LP line. Click to expand

The distance from the tack to mast on boat A can and will be different from Boats B,C,D etc... thus the % is moot unless the you are dealing with same made boats. All this is aside from the mast height..  

sailme88 said: The distance from the tack to mast on boat A can and will be different from Boats B,C,D etc... thus the % is moot unless the you are dealing with same made boats. All this is aside from the mast height.. Click to expand

The % will vary on the boat you intend to use it on… If you intend to sell it for YOUR boat, the % could be relevant. But if you give the measurements and someone es to to but it for some other boat make/model, the % will be different for them. Greg  

Advertise the sail by its dimensions, condition, sailmaker and the size sail it was for your boat. Given the other jibs you have, is this one larger or smaller? Is there a number on the bag? Often sail makers will label a bag #1 Genoa C&C 37. The smaller the number the larger the sail. A #1 is around 150%, #2 around 135%, # 3 around 100-110%, #4 under 90%.  

Stu Jackson

Jimongee said: Is there a formula to determine sail %? Click to expand

Richard19068

Jib overlap calculator - precision sails.

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• Sail Dimensions

What Sail Dimensions are Required to Calculate Sail Areas?

The required sail dimensions for calculating the area of any triangular sails are usually its height and the length of its foot. But that only works for mainsails and mizzens with no roach, and jibs with a 90 degree angle at the clew - and what about high-cut headsails, spinakers and cruising chutes? Read on...

Foresail and mainsail dimensions are universally referenced with the letters 'J', 'I', 'E' and 'P' approximating to the length of the foredeck, height of the mast, length of the boom and the height of the main sail - but more accurately defined further down this page.

Yacht designers need these sail dimensions to calculate thought provoking stuff such as the sail-area/displacement ratios of their creations, and sailmakers need them before they put scissors to sailcloth.

If our sailboat's sails were perfectly triangular then, as every schoolboy knows, their area would be 'half the height, times the base' - but with the possible exception of a mainsail with a straight luff, generally they're not. Here's how it works...

Main and Mizzen Sail Dimensions

These are almost right-angled triangles except for the curvature of the leach (the 'roach') which increases the sail area. 

It's usually calculated as:~

Area = (luff x foot)/1.8, or

Area = ( P x E )/1.8, where:~

• 'P' is the distance along the aft face of the mast from the top of the boom to the highest point that the mainsail can be hoisted, and
• 'E' is the distance along the boom from the aft face of the mast to the outermost point on the boom to which the main can be pulled.

For the mizzen sails on ketches and yawls , 'P' and 'E' relate to the mizzen mast and boom.

For more heavily roached sails, the increased area can be accounted for by reducing the denominator in the formula to 1.6.

Clearly calculating sail areas isn't going to be an exact science...

Jibs, Genoas and Staysail Dimensions

For a working jib that fills the fore triangle - but no more - and with a foot that's parallel to the deck, then you've got a 'proper' right-angled triangular sail, whose area is:~

Area = (luff x foot)/2, or

Area = ( I x J )/2, where:~

• 'I' is the distance down the front of mast from the genoa halyard to the level of the main deck, and
• 'J' is the distance along the deck from the headstay pin to the front of the mast.

Genoas, by definition, have a clew which extends past the mast and are described by the amount by which they do so. For instance a 135% genoa has a foot 35% longer than 'J' and a 155% genoa 55% longer. Areas are calculated as follows:~

Area (135% genoa) = (1.44 x I x J )/2, and

Area (155% genoa) = (1.65 x I x J )/2

High-cut Headsails

But these formulae don't work for a high-cut jib with a raised clew - unless you imagine the sail turned on its side such that the luff is the base and the luff perpendicular is the height.

It's still a simple calculation though, once you know the length of the luff perpendicular ( LP ), the sail area is:~

Area = (luff x luff perpendicular)/2, or

Area = ( L x LP )/2, where:~

• 'L' is the distance along the forestay from the headstay pin to the front of the mast, and
• 'LP' is the shortest distance between the clew and the luff of the genoa.

Spinnaker Sail Dimensions

Much like calculating foresail areas, but with different multipliers for conventional spinnakers and asymmetric spinnakers...

Conventional Spinnakers

Area = (0.9 x luff x foot), or

Area = (0.9 x I x J ), where:~

• 'I' is the distance from the highest spinnaker halyard to the deck, and
• 'J' is the length of the spinnaker pole.

Asymmetric Spinnakers

Area = (0.8 x luff x foot), or

Area = (0.8 x  I  x  J ), where:~

• 'I'  is the distance from the highest spinnaker halyard to the deck, and
• 'J'  is the distance from the front face of the mast to the attachment block for the tackline.

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Using Spinnaker Sails for Cruising without the Drama!

When the wind moves aft and the lightweight genoa collapses, you need one of the spinnaker sails. But which one; conventional or asymmetric? Star cut, radial head or tri-radial?

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Better Sailing

Jib Vs Genoa: What is the Difference?

Most modern sailboats don’t need big overlapping headsails to ensure performance when sailing upwind. In the old days, sailboats were really heavy, their keels were long, and the sail area was the most crucial part that made the boat moving. However, nowadays light masts and rigging are available and facilitate many things while sailing. For example, if you increase the mast’s height and apply a high-aspect sail plan with a jib that overlaps no more than 105%, well this is quite an efficient rigging. So, are you are thinking of going offshore and wondering what sails are the best for your sailboat? Do you want to clarify the difference between a jib and a genoa? Then, follow me and keep reading!

Description of a Genoa

The main characteristics of a genoa are its shape and size. Genoas go past the mast, are triangular, and tend to overlap the mainsail, to some extent. It’s also one of the many headsails that can be set on a Bermudian rig. The numbers 130,150 etc refer to a percentage that has to do about the relationship of the length of the foot of the genoa and from the forestay to the front of the mast. As a result of this operation, i.e. the Luff Perpendicular divided by J (the distance), you get the overlap percentage of the sail.

Keep in mind that the larger the number you get the larger the sail would be. In general, in order to measure genoas, we often use the length of their Luff Perpendicular. In order to construct the LP, you can draw a line from the sail’s clew to the luff, and carefully intersect the luff at the right angle. 

Description of a Jib

The Jib is also a triangular sail that increases sail area and improves handling. Therefore, it increases the sailboat’s speed. Basically, the mainsail controls the stern of the ship whereas the headsail, which sits forward the mast, is most of the time a jib. One of the main functions of the Jib is that it funnels the airflow along the front of the mainsail. This improves the airflow. Moreover, the jib gives control over the bow of the boat, thus making it easier to maneuver the boat. There are different sizes for a jib with the smallest being a storm jib.

In case the boat has a furler, then the size of the genoa or jib can be adjusted according to the wind’s strength, direction, and speed. Usually, jibs are 100% to 115% LP and are used in areas with strong winds. Also, a jib won’t be longer than 115% LP of the fore-triangle dimensions. Lastly, to ensure better performance in high wind speed the smaller area of the jib the better.

>>Also Read: Names of Sails on a Sailboat

Genoa VS Jibs – What Is The Difference Between Them?

Generally, Jibs and Genoas are triangular sails that are attached to a stay in front of the mast. Jibs and genoas are employed in tandem with the mainsail in order to stabilize the sailboat. They usually run from the head of the foremast to the bowsprit. A genoa is like a jib but is larger and reaches past the mast. But, as aforementioned, when the jib overlaps the mast we refer to it as a genoa. Also, a genoa overlaps the mainsail to some degree. Both sails are measured by their Luff Perpendicular percentage, i.e. the area within the fore-triangle that they use. Sometimes, there are large genoas that cover the majority of the mainsail. This mainly happens in light wind conditions where the most sail area is used to increase performance.

And again, when the headsail doesn’t overlap the mast is considered a jib. On the other hand, an overlapping sail is a genoa. Generally, smaller jibs are more lightweight, less expensive, and easy to handle. Jibs might also have a better lifespan as their leeches aren’t dragged across the mast, shrouds, and spreaders. So, all these characteristics make the jibs easier to trim and change. Furthermore, as they weigh less they will heel and pitch less. Lastly, keep in mind that there are different sailcloths weights, and materials that can be used on jibs and genoas. The sail design of each sail is always based on the type of sailboat and the sailing conditions will determine the sailcloth’s weight.

Having Multiple or Less Sails on your Sailboat

In case your sailboat has a larger genoa then you ought to think about getting a smaller headsail. For example, a sail with an LP of around 115% or maybe less. You can use the smaller sail when the wind is getting stronger and keep your genoa in storage. It’s essential to store, protect, and generally take care of your sails a few times per year. So, it’s recommended to often change your sails once in a while. Remember that for every boat has its own sail plan. For example, a boat might need one, two sails, three, etc that will enhance its performance. Each one used for different weather conditions and for different sailing plans.

The rule of thumb says that the fewer the sails less the drag will be. Meaning that you can sail higher to the wind with a single sail rather than having multiple sails of the same aspect ratio and total area. Furthermore, for the same total sail area and same geometrical shape, having multiple sails means that they’ll be less tall. In other words, they’ll catch slower wind closer to the ground. However, for the same total sail area, multiple sails will provide less heeling. This means that you can have lighter structures that support them.

Sail Area and Furling

In the old times, boats used to have long and shallow keels therefore it was crucial to fly a significant amount of sail in order to produce horsepower. But, when a vessel has a light material construction, light masts, and rigging then the height of the mast can be taller without having an effect on the righting moment. So, an overlapping jib, around 115%, results in more efficiency and less dependence on the additional overlap. But, when furling away sail shape from a large genoa you might reduce the sail’s shape efficiency. This is because when using a genoa for strong winds, it’s going to gradually cause an uneven stretch to the Dacron.

Remember that not all sails suit for all kinds of boats. Some boat owners might recommend a specific sail for a specific vessel. But the most important factors that determine what sails suit your boat are the location in which you sail, the type of the vessel, and the captain’s experience. For example, a sail made for Oceanis 331 in Florida will be completely different than a sail made for the same boat that sails in the Meditteranean.

But, what is the best sail size for cruising boats? A 130 or 135% headsail is great because this sail shape is flat thus can be reefed efficiently. However, a 130% headsail doesn’t have a good sheeting angle but is great for offshore sailing. On the other hand, non-overlapping headsails have a narrow sheeting angle so they’re not appropriate for offshore sailing.

In general, light-air sails are large sails and need adequate camber depth to work in light winds. So, when rolling them up and use them reefed you can’t take in enough of the camber to make the sail work windward. And that’s why there are several roller-furling headsails that include lengths of rope or a strip of dense foam that runs along the luff of the sail from the head to the tack.

Apart from that, any sailboat traveling offshore is going to need a small 130% headsail in order to withstand harsh weather conditions. It’s always better to use more than one headsail when voyaging overseas. Last but not least, don’t forget to take into consideration the trade-offs when sailing upwind.

Improve your Sailboat’s Performance

As aforementioned, remember that the most crucial factors that determine the right sail size for your sailboat are the type of your vessel and the kind of passage you’re planning. There are certain things that you can do to improve your sails’ performance, no matter the kind of headsail you have. The first one refers to adding a means of adjusting the sheeting position when reefing and unreefing the headsail. For instance, you can add a block-and-tackle system that can pull the genoa lead forward when the sail is reefed. And when unreefed you can ease it aft. Generally, when moving a lead forward or aft, this changes the angle at which the sheet pulls down on the clew. And when pulling the clew down it trims the top of the jib, but when moving it aft it opens the top of the jib.

The Bottom Line

Modern technology and sail engineering have improved the development of sailcloths, sails’ versatility, and design tools to enhance their performance. Nowadays, you can choose between different types of sails according to the type of your sailboat, location, and experience. So, what’s the difference between a jib and a genoa? In order to clarify the main difference between a jib and genoa you should bear this in mind: When the foot of the headsail is longer than the distance from the forestay to the mast then we refer to a Genoa. Otherwise, the headsail is called a Jib. Basically, a genoa is a large jib that reaches past the mast and overlaps the mainsail. I hope that by reading this article you made clear the difference between a jib and a genoa and how you can enhance your sails’ performance. Wish you a lot of adventurous voyages to come!

Peter is the editor of Better Sailing. He has sailed for countless hours and has maintained his own boats and sailboats for years. After years of trial and error, he decided to start this website to share the knowledge.

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What size Genoa

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CATALINA 30 MKII sailboat specifications and details on sailboatdata.com Take the above boat for example. I suspect there is enough information in the above listing to know the size of Genoa that the boat is designed for. For example is it a 120, 130, 145 etc? I would like to know how to figure this out, or just read it if it is right there in front of me.  

Hey, I'm no expert but I would say 'it depends.' -Where are you located? Sailing in San Fransisco, where it's always windy or The Chesapeak, where it is usually light? -Are you racing and want the biggest sail for your rating? And sailing with a full crew who can grind in a big sail after each tack, or are you cruising short handed and want an easy to handle sail? I would guess a 135 would be a good fit for most people. Barry  

BarryL said: Hey, I'm no expert but I would say 'it depends.' -Where are you located? Sailing in San Fransisco, where it's always windy or The Chesapeak, where it is usually light? -Are you racing and want the biggest sail for your rating? And sailing with a full crew who can grind in a big sail after each tack, or are you cruising short handed and want an easy to handle sail? I would guess a 135 would be a good fit for most people. Barry Click to expand...

I'm not an expert at this, but that doesn't stop me from having an opinion. Obviously that website uses 100% foretriangle to calculate SA/D ratio. I'm sure some racers will give forceful opinions of how much over 100% a genoa should be to get an optimum SA/D ratio. But I think that how you plan to use the boat, and what waters you sail in, have more to do with genoa selection than any numeric ratios. For most Catalinas, which as masthead rigs are designed more for comfort than performance, I think 130-135 should be the default for a cruiser. It gives generic balance of properties, and with luff pad can be flexible to reduce sail area if you want. I know of people in SF Bay and other higher wind areas that prefer 110-120 for their prevailing conditions. (I chose a 110 for my C250 because I had to tack a lot on a river, and coming about is easier with a small sail.) Some who sail in very low wind areas want a 150. My boat came with a 150 and I didn't like it. It was too heavy and baggy for light wind, and didn't point high enough. I heard someone (can't remember whom, probably on the C34 user group) who said that a 150 is only for a racer who refuses to turn on the motor under any circumstances to avoid a DQ. He said that if you're the type who would fire up the motor rather than sweat to death at 2 kt speed, then get a 135 instead of a 150. So that's what I did, and I'm happier. It's easier to handle and points higher, reduces nicely in higher winds, and when the wind is dead I just motorsail instead of wishing I had a 150. If I really wanted to sail in dead air, I'd get a lightweight asym instead of a heavy, baggy white 150. I suspect more performance oriented sailors will poke holes in my suggestion.  

I would say this depends on the boat also. The C$C35MKIII we sail has both a 135 and 150. She is what I call a " super pointer" and can sail inside most boats her size . The 150 is considerably lighter Marblehead high mod Dacron and really points remarkably well. The jib tracks are very close the the cabin and follow well aft down her swept back stern. It isn't so much about p,idling at 2 knots as with 6-7 knots she can make 4 close hauled in most instances. Your 150 maybe just too heavy fabric as well as too long a foot for your jib tracks. However this sail is a PIA to tack. It curls Ok to 135 but no further. It is the perfect sail for upwind sailingin the lighter air months of July and August which we have. I'd rather sail at 4 knots then the iron Jenny. The 150 is too much sail in 20 k it's of wind unless downwind. Most of our sailing is not cruising long downwind days as a cruiser does. All other months we have a new 135. It handles the heavier winds and reefs quite nicely to 110. Haleakula is a racer cruiser of the early 80s design. Also with our centerboard we rarely reef before 22 unless it's gusty. It all goes to performance. In her early life I raced Haleakala ( beer can ) a lot. In light air she not only could sail inside most boats upwind , but the 150 had her pulling away from almost all 135 jibbed boats With larger waterlines, especially a fractionally rigged one. Since we rarely race as see is adorned with davits, a radar pole, a dinghy, 6-6 volt AGM, comfort is more important, however often we are still sailing with a 150 while others are motoring in July and August.  

David on the masthead Catalina's I've owned the only design limit on size has been the length of the jib tracks. When they were building boats in California 320's were usually equipped with a 135 from the factory. The original owner of my boat was in San Francisco and it is joked received special dispensation from Frank Butler for a 110. My '94 270 came from the factory with a 150 and a friend bought a new one in '06 that came with a 110. Right now I'm running a giant mylar that was supposed to be 155 but wouldn't be surprised if it was a little more. I really would like to extend the tracks a little for this sail.  

Attachments

Another to throw into the mix. My Jeanneau came with a 135. While reasonably stretched, it did work for being 20 some odd years old. not great. Got a 155 for racing, and went with a 140 for a new cruise, daysail etc sail. The 140 in MY case is too big for two handed sailing, should have gone with a 130. As I have a mini forestay, pulling that 140+ sail around the forestay which is 3-4' in front of the mast is not real fun, UNLESS, you have someone up front helping get the foot and clew around the stay. A 125-130 lp would have been a better option. As far as pointing goes. My 155 is a better pointing sail than the 140 or 130 3oz nylon drifter sail I have. Due to the fortunetly in board tracks, the traveler being farther back on the 155, the track goes more inbound from mid beam for the 140 and 130. This allows my to point dang near as high as my 110. Which I put some tracks at 9 or 12 degrees off center.....be awhile since I did this, I've forgotten a bit. As noted by myself, and some others, what is the best headsail size LP or % above 100% foretriangle, can depend upon many factors. marty  

blt2ski said: ....As I have a mini forestay, pulling that 140+ sail around the forestay which is 3-4' in front of the mast is not real fun...... Click to expand...

To comment on the original question- the base specs are almost always based on a 100% jib. Choice of something larger is then normally based on the typical winds in the local area. Here on Long Island Sound with its lighter winds, most boats have a 135 or 150 on their furler. In a heavy air location, a 100 to 120 would likely be more common.  

This is somewhat a "how long is a piece of string?" question, with a proper answer being "It depends". Many of the answers above are alluding to that. To break this down, by convention the published sail areas use the 100% foretriangle. This is intended to provide a point of comparison between different but similar boats. The problem with that convention is that it does not work well for boats that have more major differences between their rigs such as masthead vs fractional rigs, and varying proportions between the mainsail area and the 100% foretriangle. Virtually no boat that i know of was designed to actually sail with a jib the size of its 100% foretriangle. The percent of jib size relative to the the foretriangle area that the boat was designed for generally is a product of when it was designed, the chosen rig, and what it was designed to be used for. Almost all production boats from the 1960's were designed as racer-cruisers and designed to race under either the MORC or CCA rule of the day. That rule allowed 180% genoas and most of the boats of that era would have been designed to use a 170-180% genoa and a 105% working jib. If the boat was raced, it might have had a 90% jib for heavier air and a 140-150% high clew genoa. Boats designed to use 180% genoas typically would have an SA/D around 15-16. In conditions below 10-12 knots, they would sailing with that 170-180% genoa and actually be sailing with an SA/D around 20 or so. By the late 1960's and early 1970's, the vast majority of production boats were still designed as 'racer-cruisers' but the popular rating rules had shifted to PHRF and IOR, and those rules only allowed up to 155% genoas. A boat like the Catalina 30 would have been designed to use a 155% genoa and a 110% working jib. Boats of that era had a foretriangle that was proportionately larger as compared to the area of the mainsail the the boats that came before. As a result boats designed to use a 155% genoa typically would also have an SA/D around 15-16. In conditions below 10-12 knots, because the the larger foretriangle area, they would sailing with that 155% genoa and actually be sailing with an SA/D around 20 or so as well. In the decades since, with the change in focus away from dual use racer-cruisers, and as hull forms and keels have gotten much more efficient, stability has increased enormously, deep angle sails have gotten easier to set and fly, and the focus has shifted to more efficient, easier to handle rigs, the proportion has shifted so that the foretriangle is proportionately smaller as compared to the mainsail area. These more modern designed boats are typically designed with SA/D's over 20. They typically are sailed with 110% genoas and sail with an SA/D well up over 22 or 23. Now then, when I started sailing, there was something approaching an ethic which strongly promoted "voyaging by the wind" and a larger percentage of sailing community would not normally consider cranking the engine in winds down to 2-3 knots and would reef and do sail changes when the wind piped up. There was not an inherent better or worse to that. Its just the way it was. But now a days, most folks don't seem to sail in lighter winds, and most folks don't seem to intentionally sail in heavier winds and most have their jibs on furlers. So, most folks with older style rigs use a genoa in the 130-140% range and that works fine for them. Its more work to sail than the 110% genoas on modern boats and the headsails have a narrower wind range, but that isn't a problem with the way that most folks use their boats. It does make it pretty hard to sail in less than 7-8 knots of wind, and the headsail generally needs to be partially furled somewhere around 12-15 knots. But 130-140% genoas generally aren't great sails if you are performance oriented. The geometry of the shrouds on most masthead rigged boats is such that the boat will point higher with a 150% genoa than a 140% genoa and will point higher with a 110% genoa than it would with a 150% genoa. But almost all of this will vary with the specifics of the boat in question. And almost none of the inefficiencies will matter if you are not performance oriented. Jeff  

As an old guy, with old guy friends planning to extend our geriatric sailing as long as possible and living in a place where the afternoon SW is pretty reliable 15-20 and often more, many have been downsizing and are happy about it on boats that traditionally had big genoas. Lot's of 110-120's. If you're tack timing is good, no winch handles required. My current boat fractional with smaller foretriangle as Jeff explains, so we were 110 to start. Our solution to the light air quandary is a G0 (code zero).  

The best resource for guidance on sails and sail design is a sailmaker (as opposed to a sail seller). Tell them where you intend to sail, whether you intend to race or cruise, what you expect of a sail, your own level of sailing experience, and listen to their recommendations. The first time I bought new sails, I had a similar conversation with a North Sails rep, and got sails perfectly suited to my needs and my sailing venue.  

What weight is your cloth by size?  

5.1 Oz. Very tight weave  

I had 150 RF on Frers 36 in lower Tampa Bay/Gulf of Mex. Great for racing/cruising <10kts. Above 10kts, have to go outboard on leads, which hurts pointing. Just got Rolly Tasker 135RF, hopefully can extend wind range to 15-20kts.  

David- The line drawing in the URL pretty clearly shows a 100 job. Cut slightly forward of the mast above, slightly aft of it below, but averaging out a 100, entirely ahead of the mast. Which would mean the factory designed the rig to be balanced with a 100 in "typical" conditions, however they defined that. I'd say with 4 persons on board (no rail meat) and in 10-18 knots or so. If you usually sail light, shorthanded, in light winds like LI Sound? That 100 probably would be inadequate for normal sailing. Horses for courses. What you have in a sail inventory depends on how and where you plan to sail, limited by your budget and sail space. One could easily argue "light air main, heavy air main, triple reefed each, heavy 100, heavy 135, light 135, heavy and light 150, asymmetrical, storm jib" for a basic inventory that covers most conditions. But then even if Santa was paying for it, wtf does the average sailor stow all that stuff?!  

hellosailor said: David- The line drawing in the URL pretty clearly shows a 100 job. Cut slightly forward of the mast above, slightly aft of it below, but averaging out a 100, entirely ahead of the mast. Which would mean the factory designed the rig to be balanced with a 100 in "typical" conditions, however they defined that. I'd say with 4 persons on board (no rail meat) and in 10-18 knots or so. Click to expand...

As usual JeffHs post is very informative but the advice to sit with a skilled sailmaker is probably the best way to proceed. Multiple decisions here before choosing size. Dacron or other cloth or film? Weight? Chord and other features of shape? High clew or deck sweeper? Going on a furler or hanked? Used with or without an adjustable backstay? Employing construction to allow decent shape with partial furling? Is boat set up for other headsails? What range of wind speeds will it be used in? How much money can you spend? How many years of service do you expect? Jeff is right. This is pushing a string until the preliminary thinking is done.  

Give you an example. Close friends with owner of a sistership. Sailing program the same. I went 1.5 oz heavier with my main and 1 oz heavier with both solent and genny. I went with vektron. He with best grade of bainbrigde Dacron. I went with three reefs placed differently and no trysail. Both of us have construction with marks set for a match to two reef positions on ou our headsails. My solent is cut flatter as well. We both added chaff patches on on our headsails. Another sistership did not but has different materials for solent v genoa. I expect to have sails hold shape for a longer service life but he expects a lighter better lighter faster genoa for light air with a shorter service life. I think double head sails no main safer than wing and wing. He likes a full genny on a pole with a main. Neither of us like even an asymmetric. Another sistership always uses an aymetric so is more concerned his boat points well with the genny. We’re happy to give up a degree or two and use the solent not the genny if we need to pinch. Pays your money takes your chances.  

Bob writes in his book that when the ridiculously large gennys (180s) dropped in size, there was no speed penalty ... anyone want to verify or contradict that?  

My purely anecdotal opinion is that it depends on the boat. I occasionally crew on an old full keel boat, and a 180 keeps it driving in light air. The full keel boats need ample power to drive the hull. More modern designs are much more easily driven, and I think a 150-155 can drive them as well as a 180.  

Masthead rigs generally need genoa shifts for wind speed changes.... Which is why my racing masthead rig has: 155 155+ 140 105 Because the mainsail is almost insignificant in the speed of the boat. The Catalina 30 will be best sailed (speed) with a 155 up to roughly 17 knots of wind. After that the boat will gear down nicely with a shift (get this) to a mainsail reef, until about 20-22 knots of wind (depending on railmeat)... then you should switch headsails down to a 135 or so, and full main until about 25 knots (small slot no?)... after 25 knots you will likely want a painter/100% and full main, until about 30 knots when you either are crazy for sailing, or hellbent to sail it until it explodes... then reef and sail on! At about 40 knots I'd be on a painter, and no main, or a hankerchief main to manage helm. 50 knots I'd be crying heavily that the Cat 30 was never designed to survive this. Catalina 30 should be sailed like you stole it. Unless you arent' racing... in which case get what looks pretty and is easy to sail (recommend lazy jacks, roller furling, 125% headsail, and Jimmy Buffet on the radio).. Why did we ask this question again? For the record we had a 170% headsail on our US 27 (masthead rig)... boat went in ANY kind of wind... was overpowered in 10 knots true. That was a sail that provided a lot for a narrow wind range... the bright orange and yellow stripes made it stand out.  

SailingUphill said: Masthead rigs generally need genoa shifts for wind speed changes.... Which is why my racing masthead rig has: 155 155+ 140 105 Click to expand...

I have an old Tanzer 26 all my foresails are hank on my current selection is a storm jib unknown size never used, a 70% working jib my favorite as i am solo, a 150 and a 170 %. Well the other day I tried the 170 light winds predicted about 5nm from my slip the wind picked up to 18knt in the gusts and i was heeled over to 30% Now I know why it looks new? I think I will look into getting it cut down to 100 to 110%. My average speed for the 30nm trip was 4.6knt with the average windspeed about 6 gusting 10 close hauled. the 150 would have been a better choice. the boat slips too much leeward when it heals more than 20 deg. Plus it really sucks to change a big foresail in higher winds.  

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• Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear

Genoa Sheet-Lead Control Systems

A look at adjustable cars and tracks for easy headsail tweaking..

For decades, easily adjusting genoa-sheet leads from the cockpit was a luxury ascribed to the racing sailboat. But todays average daysailer or cruiser equipped with a roller-furling headsail also benefits from a handy, efficient, and safe means of adjusting the genoa sheets lead and optimizing sail performance.

The clew of a reefable headsail moves during the reefing process, and so should the sheet lead position. If the lead is left in the same place when the headsail is reefed, either the sails foot or leech will be over tensioned, while the other edge ends up under tensioned. Proper sail trim has as much to do with the sheet lead angle as it does with how much the sheet is trimmed or eased. By eliminating leech sag or over tension, a crew derives better sail shape and an attendant uptick in performance. The headsail also will maintain its sewn-in shape longer, and with less leech flutter and foot stretch, its lifespan also will be extended.

A lot has changed since our last in-depth look at genoa lead cars (PS, November 1996), so with a dual focus on racing and cruising boats, we rounded up genoa-sheet lead controls for sailboats in the 35- to 40-foot range. Our goal was to measure the genoa-sheet controls operational efficiency, design attributes, construction quality, and ease of installation; price and warranty were also considered. For details on the test protocol, check out the accompanying How We Tested.

What We Tested We tested 11 genoa-sheet lead cars and tracks from the industrys top manufacturers of sailboat deck hardware: Antal, Garhauer, Harken, Nautos, Ronstan, Schaefer, and Seldn.

Photos by Ralph Naranjo

From Antal, we tested the 150-size genoa lead (model 4654), which sports a 60-millimeter sheave and is recommended for sailboats up to 42 feet, along with the model 4520 anodized-aluminum track. Garhauer submitted two of its lead cars (EZ-G3 and EZ-G3B), as did Harken, which sent the G274B and G2747B for review. Seldn delivered three different lead cars (30 HL, 30 CRB/B, and 30 PERF) that all run on the companys 30-millimeter, extruded anodized-aluminum track.

The heavy-duty Nautos 91660 genoa car was the big dog of the pack, weighing nearly 2 pounds with a 120-millimeter lead and a 75-millimeter sheave that spins on roller- and ball-bearing races. We also evaluated Ronstans Series 22 lead car (RC-12231) and track, and Schaefers simple, elegant 17-68 car and 1.25-inch T-track.

One of the first trends we noted among the test products was a move toward more friction-free ball bearings and less use of high-molecular-weight plastic bushings. Both options lessen friction and improve the way a lead car slides down the track. Under no load, the ball bearing-equipped cars got the greased lightning award, but they are more expensive. And when the load is on, ball-bearing lead cars move with less friction. In all instances except with the Harken cars we tested, care must be taken to keep the ball bearings from escaping. The trick is to keep the stub track in the lead and use it to thread the car onto the track. If you slip, the car will shed plastic ball bearings like a broken bag of marbles, heading straight for deck drains and other irretrievable hiding places. Another trick, which Seldn suggested, is using gel shaving cream to hold the last few bearings in place while you attach the end fittings.

A few test units provided bungee-cord assisted retraction to hold unloaded cars in place. Others assumed that the sheets led to roller-furled headsails would keep the cars tensioned.

Antal Antals genoa-lead car (model 4654) slides on a dual-race, ball-bearing surface with one Torlon and one Delrin circuit per side. The car handles vertical, side, and torque loads evenly, and even if the bearings are destroyed, the car remains captive on the track. The reinforced resin sheaves run on an axle with twin ball-bearing races on either side of the sheave. The extruded, anodized aluminum, hollow-section track can be matched with various multi-purchase sheaves that allow for adjustable car control. The box-section track is light and stiff.

The car is a carefully designed and exactingly built piece of deck hardware. The manufacturer has gone to significant effort to galvanically isolate dissimilar metals. The dual-race bearing system supporting the lead car delivers a friction-free spin. The Antal offered the best power in/power out ratio among the lead cars we tested.

For part of our testing, we added an extra block to make the car control line deliver the same 4-to-1 mechanical advantage that most of the other test products had built in. Antal does have a double-sheave end fitting with a becket, but the test unit had only a 3-to-1 purchase. The 4-to-1 ratio was consistent with the test protocol, and the Antal 150 presented the least resistance under the highest loads.

The only downside we could find with the Antal system was the lead cars $612 price tag. Its three-year warranty tied with the Ronstan car for the shortest in the test field.

Bottom line: This car and track may be overkill for the average cruiser-racer in this size range, but boats with large furling genoas and crews spending lots of time racing or cruising offshore will appreciate the optimized adjustment capability, reliable operation, and long-term durability that Antal offers. We Recommend it.

Garhauer The Garhauer EZ-G3 and EZ-G3B both use the same smooth-running, ball-bearing blocks with large-diameter bearings, but the EZ-G3 car has very small Torlon ball bearings and runs on a low-profile T-track. The EZ-G3B rides on medium ball bearings and slides on a stiffer, heavier-duty anodized-aluminum track with a larger cross-section. The latter delivered a 50-percent increase in pull power over the former when 32 pounds of tension was placed on the control line, and its improved effect on sail trim would be noticeable underway. Both Garhauer cars offer a 4-to-1 tackle arrangement for car control, and the sheaves spin like roulette wheels with extra ball bearings.

Garhauers powerful pull goes hand-in-hand with the larger size of its blocks. Testers did note that the smaller-diameter ball bearings used in the EZ-G3, and to a lesser extent the EZ-G3B, are best kept in the lead car. When they escape, they are harder to find than the larger-diameter ball bearings used by competitors.

Priced at $363 for the total package (two EZ-G3 cars and two track lengths), or $182 per car, Garhauer once again finds a balance between performance and aggressive pricing. However, the EZ-G3B and its track are heavier than all other competitors (12 pounds per side); this may be an issue for racers prone to cutting the handles off their toothbrushes.

Bottom line: Cruisers, and racers who are less boat-weight-conscious, will find that the Garhauer systems offer a lot of value, not to mention the raw power in the EZ-G3B, which gets the Budget Buy pick. Testers were not as enthusiastic about the EZ-G3s small ball-bearing lead car alternative. Despite its being equipped with a smooth-running sheave, the block bogged down under load, and its performance fell well behind the EZ-G3B.

Harken Harkens 27-millimeter G274B and G2747B cars had cleverly engineered, lock-in-place, Torlon recirculating ball bearings. The lock-in-place bearings stole the show when it came to slipping ball-bearing lead cars on and off the track.

The G274B incorporates a pressed stainless-steel sheave cage, a nylon-resin GRP sheave, and a bushing-type bearing. The G2747B is identical to the former, except the stainless block cage has a black abrasion-resistant coating and a tang for bungee attachment. It also has a very smooth spinning, larger-diameter sheave that uses ball and roller bearings to reduce friction during trimming. Both systems toggle 60 degrees to accommodate lead-angle offsets, and both sheave cages are wide enough to handle two sheets.

Racers counting weight as well as efficiency should take a close look at the Harken blocks. After repeated testing, it was clear that the most important uptick in efficiency comes from making the track-to-car interface a smooth ride, and thats just what Harken offers in both of these lead cars, with the G2747B having a little extra slipperiness.

Bottom line: The Harken cars are light and compact, but offer lots of power and easy handling. They are the Best Choice for light-displacement boats.

Nautos Among the leads we looked at, the carefully engineered, high load-bearing Holt Nautos 91660 genoa car was in the big-dog pack, along with the Antal, Garhauer, and Schaefer. The wide sheave easily accommodates two sheets, and the sheave cage was well attached to the car via a four-point toggling hinge. There are shackles at each end of the car, but no built-in control blocks, making the car best suited for a winch-tensioned control line. It can be used with other brands of track as well.

Because our testing used a 4-to-1 tackle, we set up such a system to deliver the pull force. The Nautos car delivered results toward the lower end of our test range, but when loaded to 500 pounds, it was still an easy car to slide.

Bottom line: Testers liked the Nautos systems structure and quality of manufacture, but in this tight field of quality products, it was out-performed by other products overall.

Ronstan Ronstans Series 22 lead car (RC12231) runs on Torlon ball bearings, and like most of the other ball-bearing-equipped cars, it comes with a short section of track that keeps the slippery bearings captive. By carefully butting the short keeper track section with the end of the deck-mounted track, the car can be positioned on the boats track much like a railroad car emerging from a sidetrack. The stainless-steel sheave cage mounts to the car via two welded forks, toggling on a smaller-diameter pin. A rubber grommet keeps the clatter down as the lead car toggles.

There was a lot to like in the Ronstan genoa car, and it performed quite well in testing-holding its own with the big dogs. It slid quietly and efficiently on the small, lightweight 22-millimeter track, sounding like a gear train shifting smoothly, rather than a bag full of silverware being dragged along the deck. The grommet placed on the toggle leg tamed the slat-slat sound caused by a flailing sheave, and the lead had enough side-to-side play to cope with a wide range of car-to-clew geometry. We did have to lash on a block to arrive at 4-to-1 parity with others tested, but there is a 3-to-1 setup that would work just fine.

Bottom line: Ronstans lead car gave Harken a run for its money, but it was nosed out by the latters captured ball-bearing race and five-year warranty. Nevertheless, this is a compact and capable system that will perform well, and we can Recommend it.

Schaefer Schaefer displays both simplicity and elegance in its stainless-steel 17-68 car and wide, nicely machined anodized-aluminum sheave cage. The bushing-and-axle supported sheave offers a wide lead that will easily accommodate two sheets during sail changes.

The spring-dampened toggle is a nice touch that will diminish clatter in rolling conditions offshore. A high molecular-weight plastic track bushing is an alternative to ball and roller bearings. As might be expected in a bushing-type car, the efficiency was not up there with the plastic ball-bearing gear we tested, but it is more likely to take the ravages of time and environmental harassment in stride. And its slight increase in friction may be a fair trade for the simplicity and reliability.

Testers especially liked the Schaefer units nut-and-bolt sheave axle and the fact the user can easily remove and replace key parts, even the bushing surface. They were further impressed by the high-quality stainless-steel work and the efficient fiddle-block tensioning control system.

Bottom line: The overall quality of the Schaefer gear and its user-friendly maintenance abilities make it a good choice for those headed over the horizon. Its the Best Choice for bluewater voyagers and cruisers in far-flung locales.

Seldn The three different leads Seldn sent us to review define the companys approach to genoa-car design. The compact, high-load 30HL plastic-bushing car came with an inclined base and an up-angle lead that puts less load-handling stress on key parts of the cast, double-sheave cage and car. The casting includes built-in sideplates for control-line sheaves. Testers found that the configuration made rigging control lines a bit of a nuisance, but because this is only done to set the system up, we did not consider it a major issue. The price, reasonable efficiency, and compact design all made this car a solid competitor.

The 30CR B/B is a Torlon ball-bearing car with the same sheave and cage as the 30HL. Testers liked that its built-in blocks delivered a 4-to-1 pull. The bushing-supported sheave and ball-bearing car were the right combination, delivering a smooth-riding, compact lead. A rubber mini-fender stopped the clatter linked to a flailing sheet, and the load on the control line increased evenly all the way through the range.

Seldns performance car, the 30 Perf, is nicely designed and engineered. It incorporates a longer ball-bearing car and a stainless-steel sheave cage and toggle that also compensated for lead-angle changes 90 degrees off the toggle axis. Opposite the car control block was a becket to attach a bungee cord or a second lead on the same track. It was the only lead we tested that offered a two-plane toggling ability to better align the sheave. The long ball-bearing car had to have a second block added to achieve a 4-to-1 ratio, but it did not run as smoothly on the track as the 30CR B/B.

Bottom line: There were features found in each of these blocks that testers looked on favorably. The 30CR B/B incorporated a ball-bearing track-to-car interface, slid smoothly, and earned high marks for design attributes. Despite its $439 price tag, the 30CR B/B is a PS Recommended piece of hardware.

Conclusion Both racers and cruisers benefit from underway sheet-lead adjustability, and our test results showed that no one product answers all needs. For the more competitive boat owners aboard lighter-displacement boats, the Harken and Ronstan systems were neck-and-neck. Testers liked the smooth slide of each of these cars. Ronstan uses a thick rubber grommet to tame the slat-slat clatter of a flailing sheet, but Harken leaves users with the sound of speed. In the end, it was Harkens trapped ball-bearings, full complement of track ends, and other features that sealed the deal. The Harken G274B and G2747B get the Best Choice for lightweight performance boats, and Ronstan earns our Recommendation.

Those with higher-displacement boats should consider the Antal and Schaefer. The former delivers the apex of efficiency, and the latter is well-made gear thats easy to inspect and can be repaired with a minimum of specialized parts. For those headed offshore, the Schaefer is the Best Choice. Seldns 30CR B/B was a solid performer and for those not tethered to a tight budget, it too is Recommended.

Garhauers EZ-G3Bs ring pins are snag prone and its toggling range is limited, but it is a lot of hardware, performed well, and boasts a lot of efficiency for $182 per car. It gets the Budget Buy pick.

Whichever unit you select, check out the options list for things that will make installation easier. For example, buy extra ball bearings if your system uses them and make sure that secure end stops prevent an inadvertent fly-off-the-track disaster.

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