sailboat storm jib

Complete Guide to Storm Sails

Storm sails are popular safety measures that help you retain control of your boat in high winds. They also reduce the risk of knockdown.

In this article, we'll cover the most common types of storm sails and their uses. Additionally, we'll go over storm sail materials, cost, sizing, and tips from the sailing community. You'll also learn when (and how) to deploy storm sails at sea.

Storm sails are durable and compact sails designed for use in rough weather. They're smaller than regular mainsails and headsails. The most common kinds of storm sails are the trysail and the storm jib. Storm sails can be deployed alone or in pairs.

The information contained in this article was sourced from expert sailors and storm sail manufacturers. Additionally, we sourced technical specifications from reviewers and users of storm sails.

Table of contents

What are Storm Sails?

Storm sails are small and durable headsails and mainsails designed for use in rough weather. They are a fraction of the size of typical mainsails and headsails, and they attach to the vessel using a multi-point tie system.

Storm sails are almost always triangular regardless of what kind of vessel they're deployed on, which includes storm sails designed for gaff-rigged sailboats. This is because a three-pointed sail is durable and easy to deploy at the base of the mast. Three connection points are easier to deal with than four, and storm sails don't require the use of top spars.

Storm sails are typically bright orange in color to distinguish them from other canvas aboard the vessel. Additionally, high visibility material makes it easier to see the boat in dangerous conditions. This is especially useful in emergencies, and it helps avoid collisions with other vessels.

Storm sails are stronger than the rest of the sails aboard most vessels. They are designed to stand up against gale-force winds and heavy ocean spray. Most storm sails can be deployed rapidly without completely removing the mainsail or headsail.

How do Storm Sails Work?

The concept and function of a storm sail is simple. A storm sail is essentially just a reefed version of your headsail or mainsail. Storm sails provide propulsion in high winds, which is essential if you want to keep control of the boat.

Storm sails are useful because they are smaller than the smallest configuration of your typical sail setup. In other words, they give you a smaller sail plan than you could have achieved by reefing. During dangerous storm conditions, this could be the difference between a controllable boat and a knockdown.

Types of Storm Sails

Most vessels that carry storm sails have one for the forward sail plan and one for the after sail plan. This typically includes a trysail for replacing the mainsail and a storm jib for replacing the headsail. In some cases, vessels opt to carry only a single storm sail as an easy precautionary measure.

Vessels that only carry a single storm sail generally opt for a storm jib, as it can be easier and safer to rely on a headsail during foul weather conditions. Additionally, it frees up the mainsail for precise adjustments, as it's easier to reef and trim from the cockpit. The downside of carrying only a storm jib is that it requires someone to trek to the bow of the boat during hazardous conditions.

In addition to trysails and storm jibs, there are many sub-varieties of storm sails available today. Next, we'll cover a few of the most popular storm sail types and their intended uses.

Basic Storm Sails for Emergencies

Basic no-frills storm sails are available for typical cruising boats to use in emergencies. These simple, often brightly colored Dacron sails are easy to rig and compact for long-term storage. They are triangular and often flat, which makes them ideal for quick deployment.

They are the most affordable type of storm sail and often considered 'universal fit' for boats within a certain size range. In other words, you probably won't have to custom-order a basic storm sail setup for your production fiberglass cruising sloop.

Basic storm sails often come in a convenient and weatherproof storage box that's clearly marked for stowing with your other emergency gear. These are not the most efficient or durable storm sails available, but they're strong enough to improve your chances in a dangerous situation.

Racing Storm Sails

Storm sails have found a unique niche amongst some offshore racing sailors. Vessels that participate in offshore regattas in foul weather often rely on them to achieve high speeds. This is especially true in conditions that are too hazardous to deploy a standard sail plan.

There are not a whole lot of purpose-built storm sails for racing. However, many sailors who participated in ocean races choose higher-quality and more controllable storm sails. That said, ocean racers often choose storm sails with unique shapes and characteristics.

Racing storm sails are usually slightly larger than basic emergency storm sails. They often have a deeper reef and longer leech, which increases the size of the canvas and brings it closer to the deck. Additionally, these characteristics make the small sail more efficient and allow the vessel to reach higher speeds while retaining precise control.

Racing storm sails are often reinforced in key areas, which is done at the factory or after the fact by the owner. This is because they're more likely to be deployed more than once and left on extended periods. Sometimes, Racers opt to delete unreliable quick-rig features that are found on standard storm sails.

Custom Storm Sails

There are many reasons why a sailor might choose to have a custom storm sail produced. As far as cost is concerned, it's comparable to a typical custom sailmaking job. Custom storm sails can be made with unique dimensions to optimize their efficiency on a specific hull design.

Custom storm sails are sometimes produced with higher-quality materials than consumer models, which gives sailors additional peace of mind. In many cases, the unique design of some sailboats requires purpose-built storm sails.

Most sailmakers will produce storm sails upon request. However, you may have to provide additional specifications ahead of time. They can also reinforce consumer storm sails using high-quality material or make adjustments to provide a better fit for your boat.

What are Storm Sails Made Of?

Storm sails need to be strong and weather-resistant. Additionally, they need to survive long periods of storage in less-than-ideal conditions, such as in the bilge or under a deck hatch.

Modern sale materials such as Kevlar and laminates are strong, but they don't always perform well in long-term storage. As a result, storm sails are typically made with a thick sheet of good old Dacron.

Dacron is a popular type of polyester sail fabric that's found in all kinds of sailboats. The primary difference between a Dacron storm sails and run-of-the-mill sail fabric is color and thickness.

When to Use a Storm Sail

What sort of conditions warrant the use of a storm sail? This varies between boats, and also between captains and crews. But generally speaking, storm sails can be deployed in high-wind conditions when typical reefing and adjustments aren't enough.

The precise wind speed that causes you to deploy storm sail is impossible to predict without knowing your specific vessel's handling characteristics. However, storm sails are sometimes found in winds exceeding 30 or 40 knots.

If a knockdown is imminent, the best course of action is most likely maneuvering. It will be very difficult to rig a storm sail when the vessel is at extreme risk of being blown over. It's best to rig a storm sail when the boat is still under control, either by you or someone else.

How to Rig a Trysail

Storm sails rig up similarly to your regular sails. Precise installation instructions vary between boats and sail models, but you can expect to install them roughly the same way.

The luff and tack of the main storm sail (trysail) typically rig up using sheets to the spinnaker blocks on the mast. The storm sail sheet runs to a block on the deck and then to a winch, similarly to how a jib sheet would run.

How to Rig a Storm Jib

The storm headsail, or storm jib, rig up using an inner forestay or halyard. The storm jib is hanked on, and the jib sheet runs to block and winch on the deck. The storm sheet typically follows the same route as a regular job sheet.

Are Storm Sails Required?

Some sailors believe that the Coast Guard requires storm sails aboard all sailboats. This is not the case, as the USCG doesn't list storm sails on its roster of mandatory safety gear . The majority of sailboats don't (and probably won't ever) have a storm sail aboard.

While storm sails are not a legal requirement aboard sailboats, there are situations where sailors must carry them. Ocean races are an example of one such situation, as many offshore regattas mandate them. This is especially true in Northern latitudes, where rough weather and gale-force winds are commonplace. Most of these organizations don't require sailors to use them; they just require sailors to have them.

How Much do Storm Sails Cost?

Storm sails are typically affordable, at least compared to other emergency gear, such as automatically inflating lifeboats. Storm sail prices vary based on material quality, thickness, and size. Below, we'll cover the price and specifications of a typical storm sail as an example.

Our example model from National Sail and costs $640 . It's a conventional hank-on storm jib, which is the most common type. It has a luff of 28 inches, a leech of 22.5 inches, and a foot of 11.9 inches. It has an overall weight of 9 pounds. Based on its size, this model is designed for a boat around 40 to 50 feet in length.

As you can see, storm sails are relatively affordable, even for large boats. The prices you can expect to pay for a typical 30-foot cruising vessel are between $200 and $350, depending on the quality and thickness of the cloth.

Storm Sail Sizes

It's essential to find the right size storm sail for your boat. Storm sails vary in both dimensions and fabric weight (or material thickness). Most storm sail manufacturers produce trysails and storm jibs for vessels between 20 and 60 feet in length.

Are Storm Sails Necessary for Offshore Cruising?

The debate about the necessity of storm sails has been raging for years. The jury is still out whether sailors should keep one aboard. Some people swear by them, and others dismiss them as a needless complication when reefing and handling would suffice.

It comes down to your personal experience and judgment. Storm sails work, and there are many instances where they've been deployed and likely helped save vessels from knockdown or foundering.

That said, sailors rightfully note that they can be very difficult (and even dangerous) to deploy during storm conditions when captain and crew effort would be more useful trying to handle the vessel.

Storm Sail Use and Preparation

It's essential to practice with storm sails in windy conditions before relying on them in truly dangerous situations. Go out on a windy day and practice deploying and controlling your storm sails. Put a plan in place to get them up quickly and safely.

Make sure to wear a life jacket and harness when deploying storm sails or moving around the boat in rough weather. Ensure that you have a place to attach your harness along the way, especially in areas that you need to stand to rig your storm sails.

Also, make sure to find harness attachment points on both sides of the mast, as you never know what side the boat will be heeling when you need to deploy your storm sails. Once you're confident that you can deploy and control your storm sails quickly and safely, you'll be ready to rely on them as an additional safety measure in rough weather.

Should I Buy Storm Sails?

So, should you buy a set of storm sails? Again, the answer depends on your location, sailing conditions, and personal experience. If you live in an area where rough weather is common or if you intend to embark on an offshore race, it's worth considering a set of storm sails. For the price, storm sails are a cheap insurance policy for hazardous weather.

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Daniel Wade

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Furling-friendly Storm Sails: Are They a Sensible Solution?

Testers compare the atn gale sail and banner bay’s storm-bag over-furling heavy-weather sails..

The advent of roller furling and its rise to “must have” sailing gear status over the last few decades has inadvertently generated a new area of concern, one that our hank-on headsail seafaring forefathers would find almost laughable: the inability to bend on a storm jib when the need arises. Unless your boat is cutter rigged, or rigged with a solent stay or inner forestay to accommodate heavy-weather headsails (including a storm jib), the usual option in heavy weather is a deeply furled genoa. While roller furling eases the burden of the modern sailor most of the time, it is a weak ally in strong winds, particularly when trying to sail above a broad

reach. When the wind pipes up, you want a dedicated headsail that holds its shape, places the center of effort where you need it, and minimizes heeling forces.

Practical Sailor

Both the Gale Sail and Storm-Bag address the roller furling-storm jib issue, but they do it with distinctly different designs. Our evaluation compared not only basics (cost and quality of construction), but also ease of use and other pros and cons associated with each design. For additional comments from a sailmaker’s perspective, we turned to David W. Baxter, owner of Baxter Sailmakers ( www. baxtersailmakers.com ), a well-respected loft in Norfolk, Va. We did not get the chance to deploy these sails in heavy weather, but if given the opportunity, we hope to this sailing season.

Before we delve into these products though, a quick summary of Practical Sailor ’s two preferred storm jib options is in order. These alternatives are compared to the reviewed products in a table on the facing page.

• Storm jib on a staysail stay: This sail sets on an inner forestay that runs parallel to the headstay, usually attaching at the top spreader and well aft of the headstay. It can be removable and almost always requires running backstays to support the mast. Retrofitting can be expensive and require significant deck reinforcement.

• Storm jib on solent stay: This sail sets on a stay that leads from the masthead (or near it) to a fitting aft of the headstay. Because it does not require running backstays, it can be cheaper than adding an inner forestay, but it still requires significant modification. The slot is usually too small for the stay to remain in place during tacking maneuvers. Some boats can make use of extra halyard fittings and hardware to accommodate a removable solent stay, further reducing costs.

Ideally, either of these arrangements should be carried out with input from the boat’s designer and/or manufacturer, a qualified rigger, and a sailmaker, who will be able to provide valuable information on gear selection and installation details. This is a project where cutting corners can have serious consequences.

In the view of Practical Sailor, either one of these retrofits is a much better option than the products reviewed here.

The Gale Sail

ATN’s Gale Sail has been available for well over a decade, and we first recommended it in July 1997, saying it would be “well used in tradewind conditions,” but we remained unconvinced it eliminates the need for a conventional storm jib and inner forestay. Construction for the sail we tested this time, 60 square feet of 8-ounce Dacron, was good and included features such as oversized piston hanks, webbed grommets, and a high-visibility luff pouch. The sail was initially offered in orange, but it is currently only available in white with a red sleeve.

The Gale Sail comes packed in a traditional sail bag. To deploy, the user wraps the genoa sheets around the furled genoa, down to the deck, and secures them. Next, the tack is secured, and the Gale Sail is hanked on over the furled genoa, forming a sleeve. The sheets are then attached, and the sail is hoisted using a spare jib or spinnaker halyard.

Users will want to practice hoisting the Gale Sail in calm conditions to get familiar with the setup and find the best way to route the sheets. Since the roller-furling sail’s sheets will be used to secure the genoa, the Gale Sail will require dedicated sheets.

For either sail, you will probably have to unreave the genoa sheets from the lead cars to accommodate the storm jib’s sheets. Another option would be to have double-sheave cars or install a second set of cars well forward on the track.

Hanking the Gale Sail on to the jib is simple as both the pistons and their matching grommets are clearly labeled. However, testers found working the piston hanks into position to be tough, due primarily to the stiffness of the new sail and restricted articulation of the hanks. Because the crew will be working with a flogging sail at the bow of the boat, exposed to wind and waves, this sail is best set before conditions get too rough.

The Gale Sail hoists easily in calm weather, but we see a number of problems that could arise while hoisting in an actual storm. One possible problem noted by our testers is that the sleeve could be a tight fit in some cases, such as on a more loosely furled jib or a stiff sail that may not roll up as tightly. On the other hand, once the sleeve is in place, it helps prevent accidental unfurling of the genoa. (Sailors who already own a storm jib can have their sail retrofitted to fit over their furled genoa by ATN for $22 per foot of luff length.)

ATN maintains that as the Gale Sail is hoisted over the stiff roller-furled sail and foils, it maintains a good aerodynamic shape, one that is better than that of a conventional storm jib hanked on to a removable headstay. While the Gale Sail sets better than a partially furled jib, a well-designed storm jib and stay arrangement will offer better performance, in our view.

Dousing, removing, and stowing the Gale Sail is straightforward, similar to a conventional storm jib.

Bottom line: The Gale Sail is well-made and for a sailor looking for this type of product, it is a better option than the Storm-Bag. At $740, the 60-square-foot sail recommended for our 36-foot full-keeled test boat (a Union 36) is approximately $350 less than a comparably sized Storm-Bag, although the Storm-Bag comes with sheets.

THE STORM-BAG

Available from New Jersey-based Banner Bay Marine, the Storm-Bag is a “double-sided” storm jib compactly stowed in a custom bag that fits around a furled jib like a saddle. The sail (offered in international orange) is deployed directly from the bag; simply snap the provided tack line to the roller-furler drum (or suitable deck strong point), attach a halyard, then snap on the included sheets, and route them to the cockpit.

The sail remains secure in its bag until hoisted, a feature our testers liked. This meant no wrestling with the sail during preparation for deployment. Once back in the cockpit, the user pulls on the leeward sheet to release the sail from its bag, and then hauls up the halyard to raise the sail.

Testers found construction of the Storm-Bag to be good. The model tested (#SB06, for boats 27 to 35 feet) is 65 square feet and constructed of double layers of 6-ounce Dacron sailcloth.

The Storm-Bag is advertised as having many advantages over a conventional storm jib: compact stowage, easier deployment, and reduced likelihood of the genoa unfurling in high winds (although not to the degree provided by the Gale Sail sleeve arrangement). The stowed sail is compact, but the other stated advantages are offset by potential problems, in our opinion.

Because it folds loosely over the furled genoa, the Storm-Bag will easily fit, no matter how bulky the genoa is. The maker says it can also be deployed over a forestay foil, but only as a temporary get-me-home solution.

A downside to this “fold-over” design is that you’re dealing with twice as much sailcloth as you really need. This could make it more difficult to manage in a storm, since you’ll have potentially 130 square feet of material flogging around. The Storm-Bag is easy to deploy heading into the wind, but it could be a handful should the wind whip between the fold and start the two halves flogging.

While the quality of construction was good, our testers raised several issues with the Storm-Bag. For one, PS is not a big fan of utilizing snap shackles on a heavy-weather sail, and the storm bag uses one to attach the sheets. Crew members will want to stay well clear of this shackle when hoisting or dousing.

Testers also didn’t like the thin, 1-inch-wide Velcro used to close the ends of the launching bag. (The maker has tried a wider strip, but it caused the bag to tear.) Also, once the sail is deployed, the bag remains attached at the bottom, and would likely be flapping in the wind.

Another issue is that the Storm-Bag is hard to properly repack after use. It seems that the best way to repack the sail is to stuff it into a sail bag, take it ashore at the next landfall, and origami-fold it back into the storage bag.

Bottom line: At $1,100, the 65-square-foot sail presents too many potential issues, in our opinion, to recommend it for heavy-weather use. The maker is looking at improving some of the design elements.

If a storm jib for offshore sailing is what you want, neither of these products is an ideal option, in our opinion. The Gale Sail is better than nothing in conditions where a furled genoa may fall short—deep reaching or running in reinforced trades, or heaving to in reinforced trades are two examples that come to mind—but neither merits the name “storm sail” in our opinion. An offshore sailor’s money is better spent in developing a proper storm jib setup, one that employs either an inner forestay or a solent stay and allows for a hank-on heavy-weather jib, and for severe conditions, a dedicated storm jib. With luck, you’ll never find yourself in a situation that requires such a sail, but if you do, you will want one that is up to the task.

recently evaluated two products that claim to restore the missing storm jib capability on vessels with roller-furling headsails, the ATN Gale Sail and the Storm-Bag from Banner Bay Marine. Each is advertised as an ideal solution for roller-furling equipped vessels lacking an inner forestay, allowing sailors to hoist a storm jib without the need to remove the genoa.

• Practical Sailor Value Guide: Storm Jib Options
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7 Storm Jibs on test

• January 26, 2016

We test 7 storm jibs, including wrap around and sleeved sails, to find out the best options for your boat

Storm jibs are often seen as an insurance policy: something you know you should have but hope you never have to use. Like insurance policies, storm jibs tend to be ‘filed away’ before the small print is read. In this case the ‘file’ is probably at the bottom of the cockpit locker and reading the small print means rigging up the jib out at sea in a blow to see how it actually works. But how many of us do that and, just as critically, how many of us think seriously about what type of jib is the most practical to deploy and efficient to use?

Plenty of coastal cruisers don’t have storm jibs, relying instead on rolling down the headsail. Some argue that in heavy weather you don’t want to go on deck anyway: it’s safer to stay in the cockpit. Others just turn on the engine and motor-sail with a reefed mainsail, while the lucky ones or those who calculate carefully enough never find themselves in a position in which they have to make upwind against anything nasty.

Be prepared Whatever the arguments, however, the chances are that one day you’re going to have occasion to use a storm jib – even if it’s simply because your roller genoa has been damaged, you’ve got a rope around the prop and it’s the only upwind canvas you can set forward of the mast. So, assuming that you decide to buy one, what are your options?

The simplest and least expensive route on most boats is to have a jib that wraps around the furled genoa. These come in a variety of forms: jibs with built-in sleeves, separate sleeves that you attach to your existing hank-on jib, and two jibs sewn together at the luff to form a double-layer sail. With any of these you need no extra equipment other than a second halyard.

How we tested them For our trials we headed out into 45 knots of wind with Jo Mooring Aldridge on her Contessa 26, Sulali. Jo loves sailing in heavy weather and often uses her storm jib, which she rigs on a removable inner forestay and hoists using the spinnaker halyard. We tested seven sails in eight configurations: three double-layer wrap-around jibs, one with a built-in sleeve, a sleeve that we attached to Jo’s own hank-on jib, two jibs hanked on to the inner forestay, and one that was set free-flying. Although the wind dropped during the course of the day, it remained brisk enough to present us with a challenge and allowed us to return with some firm convictions about which types of storm jib make the most sense.

Wrap-around storm jibs

A popular solution for those who use a furling genoa, a wrap-around consists of two identical storm jibs sewn together at the luffs. The tack is made fast to the furling drum, the head to a halyard, and both clews are attached to both sheets. When hoisted, the sails wrap around the furled genoa to form a single, double-skinned storm sail.

Crusader Price: from £395 Contact: www.crusadersails.co.uk

Price: from £555 Contact: www.uk-ullman-sails.co.uk

Pull out the clews to release the sail from the bag, then hoist

Ullman Sails’ SDS (Storm Deployment System) is similar to the Storm Bag, but a few crucial differences set the two apart. The first is cloth weight. Ullman use a standard orange 10oz storm fabric for their sail, which is much stiffer than the white cloth used for the Storm Bag. The heavy cloth would be stronger for extended use, but we found it too stiff to hoist easily from the concertinaed folds in the bag. The second is the soft head, tack and clews, which combined with a soft toggle system of attaching the sheets removed any hard objects from the foredeck. We liked this feature, and were very impressed with the build quality of the sail, which incorporates a mesh centre panel to minimise chafe, quadruple stitching and a Spectra luff reinforcement, continued beyond the foot to make a tack line.

A long tack line caused the Ullman to fly high. It would be worth shortening

Finally, Ullman have used a mesh bag, which they suggest will drain faster. That may be the case, but it should certainly permit the sail to breathe more when stored.

Price: from £759 Contact: www.bluewatersupplies.com

Light orange cloth is not available, so the 4m2 Storm Bag uses white

French sailmaker Delta Voiles have addressed the problem of handling cloth on the foredeck with a neat sailbag which wraps around the forestay, holding the sail in place until you are ready to hoist. It was certainly easy to rig: simply wrap the bag around the stay, click the plastic buckles together to hold it in place, attach the snap-hook on the tackline, make fast the halyard and snap on the sheets provided. Less good were the instructions, which are pictorial with French and English text, and printed on the bag. Like most people in a stressed situation, we forgot to read them when rigging the sail, so guessed the system when hoisting. We tried the halyard first, but it’s essential to pull out the clews before hoisting. When used correctly the sail hoisted easily, although it billowed downwind in a bag until sheeted in firmly. The sailcloth used is significantly lighter than the other sails, which helped it to leave the bag when hoisted and should be partly offset by the double-layered nature of the sail. The sail is double-stitched, with external clew rings and a soft head. We were concerned by the snap shackle used to secure the sheets, which could cause damage if it hit someone. In common with the Ullman SDS,  stowage requires accurate folding and would be very hard to achieve on the foredeck.

Sleeve-type storm jibs

Another type supported by cloth wrapped around the furled genoa, sleeved sails reduce the amount of cloth you need to handle on the foredeck compared with wrap-arounds. We tried two types: the Gale Sail, which has a sleeve integrated into the sail, and a separate sleeve from Kemp, which allows you to attach a standard hank-on storm jib.

Kemp sleeve

Price: from £90 Contact: www.kempsails.com

The sail was supported more by luff tension than by the sleeve

This is made from standard orange storm jib fabric, with external rings up each side to accept a storm jib’s hanks or hooks. Deploying it proved fiddly – for each hank you are also having to deal with two rings, so it can be a challenge to line everything up on a wet foredeck while also keeping the sail under control. We tried to prepare for this by fitting the sleeve to the sail beforehand, but if you do this remember you must wrap the sleeve around the genoa in the direction of the open hanks to avoid a tangle. Once fitted, hoisting was straightforward, but we found that the sleeve did little to support the sail in the conditions we experienced – it was effectively free-flying on the halyard tension. In stronger winds the sleeve would be more active, and it is of benefit when raising and lowering the sail as it keeps the luff under control.

Kemp Sails’ sleeve offers a way to use a hank-on storm jib

Price: from £533 Contact: www.seateach.com

The light sleeve slid easily over the genoa and supported the sail

The 6m2 sail we tested was too large for Jo’s Contessa 26 (the other sails tested were 4m2 or less). At present SeaTeach are not importing any smaller versions of this US-made sail, but this may change in future. Having the sleeve pre-attached means you need to make sure you wrap the sail correctly around the genoa, but had the benefit that there were fewer rings to confuse the issue on the foredeck. Gale Sail use a lightweight cloth for the sleeve, which wraps and slides easily. It was also narrower than the Kemp sleeve, so took the weight of the sail earlier. The sail is equipped with D-rings on all corners, and all seams are double-stitched.

Conventional methods In the past, the principal methods for hoisting a storm jib were to hank it on to the forestay or an inner forestay, hoist a wire-luffed sail free flying, or use parrel beads up the furled headsail in much the same way as a gaff is held to the mast. We didn’t try the parrel beads option, but tried both the others as a comparison to the more modern solutions.

Free-flying jibs

Note the catenary of the storm jib luff against the straight genoa

Sailmakers universally frown on these, and with good reason. To be successful, you need to apply sufficient luff tension to completely remove the load on the standing forestay, which is virtually impossible on a larger boat. If you fail to achieve this, the sail will sag off to leeward and pointing ability is likely to be severely compromised. On our Contessa 26, however, this proved to be a viable solution as it was possible to apply enough luff tension to overcome the relatively low forestay tension. Other disadvantages  still hold true, notably that the sail is prone to flogging uncontrollably while being hoisted and lowered.

Hank-on storm jib

Our preferred solution, hank-ons hoist easily and set well

We tried Jo’s own Sanders storm jib (Sanders Sails, www.sanders-sails.co.uk), and a similar sail made by Crusader, hanked on to a Solent stay tensioned by a Highfield-type lever made by Seasure. Both sails were well made with little to choose between them, although Sanders had cut more hollow into the luff to help avoid excess fullness when the forestay inevitably sags in heavy weather. However, both proved the point that the hank-on system is still a good choice when compared with the alternatives. Once hanked on the sail will run up and down the stay with none of the friction-related glitches we found from fabric binding the furled genoa. On the negative side this system required two trips to the foredeck, once to rig the forestay and again to hank on the sail, but we found that it was preferable to handle small, well-contained tasks than have to handle a more complex system in one go.

How well do they work?

Wrap-arounds The main problems with these were that we had twice as much sail cloth to handle as with a conventional storm jib, so the sail was much more of a handful on the foredeck, and also that the sail needed to be fully hoisted and sheeted in before the two layers of cloth aligned. Until then it’s easy to present twice as much sail area to the wind – not what you want in storm conditions. When rigging them up you’re right at the bouncy end of the boat and getting seriously wet. We had removed the sheets from the furled genoa and attached a lashing to the clew before setting out; otherwise you need to take several rolls of the sheets around the sail (if you have enough furling line left on the drum to do so) and secure them to the deck or pulpit. Removing them altogether is preferable to reduce bulk but not easy out at sea, especially on larger boats if the clew of the furled sail is above head height.

Rigging up wrap-around sails that don’t come packed in a launching bag takes time when you’re not making upwind, and that might be critical.

When hoisted, they all set reasonably well. We didn’t fine-tune sheeting angles by adjusting the genoa cars but ideally you would. Most came with a tack strop that set them high enough above the deck not to fill with green water. A high clew also means they can sheet to the genoa tracks; otherwise you need a sheeting point further forward, which most boats don’t have. On the other hand you don’t want them too high: more heel, more luff-sag. Dedicated sheets are useful, preferably without snap shackles. We liked Ullman’s soft toggles at tack and clew (even if the tack strop was excessively long); there’s less chance of injury from a flogging sail. Crusader’s idea of tying the leeches together makes sense. When hoisting the other wrap-around jibs, we found that they blew off to leeward if the wind was on or forward of the beam, because they’re only attached at their three corners. If hoisted in accordance with the instructions they should go up without drama, but reading and following print and diagrams in the heat of the moment isn’t easy. Practicing is well worth while. If we hoisted while heading downwind, they tended to open out and set like miniature spinnakers. One problem common to all of them is that you have twice the weight and area of cloth to handle on the foredeck, when dropping if not when hoisting. They will also chafe the rolled-up genoa over the course of a few hours: the stitching and the overlaps in the stiff cloth will take their toll. In some ways the simplest ‘out of the bag’ jib to deploy was the Storm Bag. How well its lighter cloth would last only time will tell.

We liked Ullman’s low-chafe mesh panel and Spectra reinforcement

Sleeved sails With both the Gale Sail and Kemp’s separate sleeve the sleeves themselves did relatively little when the halyard was tensioned: most of the weight was taken by the luff. Kemp’s sleeve is a useful solution if you have a hank-on jib that you’ve kept from another boat, for example, and need to find a way to use over a rolled genoa. It was on the large and bulky side for the Contessa 26 and its principal purpose is to control the jib when it’s being hoisted and dropped.

Free-flying On the Contessa this set well enough when the halyard was cranked as tight as possible but by then the wind had eased. In a gale there would almost certainly be excessive luff-sag especially if you use a spinnaker halyard rather than a dedicated halyard for the storm jib. The danger of injury from a flogging sail means you can only hoist downwind, losing potentially valuable sea-room.

Hank-on This is what we would choose. On the Contessa the inner forestay joins the deck only just abaft the furling drum. On larger boats it’s usually further aft, though some provide no attachment point at all.

Hanking on a sail without the extra weight, bulk and complexity of sleeves or double layers is quicker and easier and you can hoist when heading into the wind.

Re-packing the Storm Bag and Ullman SDS would be a challenge on board

Various factors help to justify the additional cost of the inner forestay: it provides a way of setting a get-you-home sail if the roller genoa or furling drum are damaged, it’s a way of keeping the mast up if the forestay breaks, and you can use it to fly an extra headsail downwind or a working jib upwind.

Simple and strong: an inner forestay tensioned by a lever

Some of the sleeved and wrap-around storm jibs are neat and compact but not one of them is a serious substitute for a storm jib on an inner forestay.

• Mastering the Art of Sailing in Stormy Seas: Your Guide to Jib and Storm Sails

Sailing enthusiasts, both novices and seasoned sailors, know that the open sea can be unpredictable, and weather conditions can change in an instant. When you find yourself facing a storm while aboard a sailboat, having the right sails can make all the difference between a safe voyage and a perilous one. In this comprehensive guide, we will explore the world of jib and storm sails, discussing their types, usage, and importance in ensuring your sailboat's safety during inclement weather.

Understanding Jib Sails

1.1 what is a jib sail.

A jib sail is a triangular sail that is set at the bow (front) of a sailboat. Its primary function is to work in tandem with the mainsail to maximize wind capture and propel the boat forward. Jib sails are versatile and come in various sizes to suit different wind conditions. They are an essential part of a sailboat's rigging, enhancing maneuverability and balance.

1.2 Types of Jib Sails

There are several types of jib sails, including genoas, working jibs, and storm jibs. Each serves a specific purpose, with storm jibs being the focus of our discussion.

The Role of Storm Sails

2.1 navigating stormy waters.

Storm sails are specially designed sails used in extreme weather conditions. When a powerful storm hits, and the wind becomes overwhelming, it's crucial to reduce the sail area to maintain control of the boat. Storm sails, including storm jibs and trysails, are smaller, heavy-duty sails that help stabilize the sailboat.

2.2 Types of Storm Sails

The two primary types of storm sails are storm jibs and trysails. Storm jibs are smaller headsails that can be hoisted on the forestay, while trysails are typically mounted on a separate track near the mast. Having both options on board provides flexibility when facing varying storm intensities.

Preparation and Safety

3.1 essential equipment.

Before setting sail in potentially stormy conditions, it's essential to have the right safety equipment on board. This includes life jackets, harnesses, and jacklines to secure yourself to the boat. Additionally, make sure your boat is equipped with storm anchors and strong lines for securing the sails.

3.2 Seamanship Skills

Proper seamanship skills are crucial for safely navigating through stormy seas. It's essential to know how to handle the boat, read weather forecasts, and understand the principles of sail trim and balance. Investing in sailing courses and gaining practical experience is invaluable for any sailor.

Sailing Through the Storm

4.1 techniques for stormy seas.

When caught in a storm, specific sailing techniques can help you maintain control of your sailboat. These include heaving to, using a drogue or sea anchor, and reefing the sails to reduce their size. Understanding these techniques is essential for your safety.

4.2 Sailboat Handling

Proper sailboat handling during a storm is a combination of experience and preparedness. Knowing how to balance the sails, adjust the rigging, and maintain a steady course can prevent accidents and ensure a smoother ride.

Storm Sail Maintenance

5.1 inspection and repairs.

Regular inspection and maintenance of your storm sails are vital for their reliability. Check for wear and tear, and make necessary repairs promptly. Ensuring that your storm sails are in excellent condition when you need them can make a significant difference in your safety.

5.2 Storage Tips

Properly storing storm sails when not in use is essential to prolong their lifespan. Keep them clean, dry, and protected from UV rays. Avoid folding or crumpling them, as this can damage the fabric.

Buying Used Sails in Sydney

6.1 finding quality used sails.

If you're on a budget, buying used sails can be a practical choice. In Sydney, there are reputable sail shops and online marketplaces where you can find quality used sails. Ensure that the sails you choose are in good condition and suitable for your sailboat.

6.2 Factors to Consider

When purchasing used sails, consider factors like size, material, and age. It's essential to match the sails to your boat's specifications and sailing needs.

Tushingham Storm Review

Are you considering investing in Tushingham storm sails? We provide an in-depth review of their performance and durability, helping you make an informed decision.

The Importance of a Trysail Track

Learn why having a dedicated trysail track on your sailboat can be a game-changer when navigating through stormy weather.

Storm Yacht Charter Adventures

Discover the thrill of chartering a storm yacht and embarking on an adventure of a lifetime. Experienced crews and well-equipped boats make storm yacht charters a safe and exciting option for exploring the open sea.

Storm Trysail Tracks for Sale

If you're looking to enhance your sailboat's storm sail capabilities, explore the available trysail tracks for sale and their installation options.

The Versatile Storm Tri Sail

Explore the versatility of the storm tri sail, a valuable addition to your sail inventory for tackling various storm conditions.

Storm Sails: A Sailor's Obligation

In conclusion, as a sailor, it's your obligation to prioritize safety on the water. Understanding the significance of jib and storm sails, as well as how to use them effectively, can be a lifesaver during stormy seas. By following proper seamanship practices, maintaining your sails, and being prepared, you can confidently navigate through challenging weather conditions.

Exploring Advanced Sailing Techniques

Now that we have covered the basics of jib and storm sails, it's time to delve deeper into advanced sailing techniques and strategies for handling adverse weather conditions. This section will provide you with valuable insights to help you become a more confident and skilled sailor.

Advanced Storm Sailing Techniques

7.1 the art of heaving to.

Heaving to is a crucial maneuver when facing heavy storms. It involves setting your sails and rudder in a way that allows the boat to maintain a relatively stationary position while riding out the rough seas. Learn the step-by-step process of heaving to and when to use this technique for your safety.

7.2 Deploying a Sea Anchor

A sea anchor is a powerful tool that can help stabilize your boat in stormy waters. Discover the proper way to deploy and use a sea anchor effectively, ensuring your sailboat stays oriented into the waves, reducing the risk of capsizing.

7.3 Understanding Storm Tactics

Navigating through a storm requires a solid understanding of storm tactics. This includes strategies for managing heavy winds, large waves, and reduced visibility. We'll provide you with expert tips on how to anticipate and react to changing conditions.

Seamanship Mastery

8.1 advanced sail trim.

Achieving optimal sail trim is critical for maintaining control and stability during a storm. Learn how to fine-tune your sails to harness the wind's power while avoiding dangerous heeling or excessive strain on your rig.

8.2 Reefing: The Art of Reducing Sail Area

Reefing is a skill that every sailor should master. In this section, we'll go beyond the basics and explore advanced reefing techniques that allow you to adjust your sail area quickly and efficiently, even in the most challenging conditions.

Storm Sail Innovations

9.1 cutting-edge materials and design.

The world of storm sails is continually evolving. Discover the latest innovations in storm sail materials and design, including high-tech fabrics and construction methods that enhance durability and performance.

9.2 Custom Storm Sails

For those seeking the ultimate in storm sail customization, we'll delve into the world of custom storm sails. Learn how to work with sailmakers to design sails tailored to your specific needs and preferences.

Safety First: Storm Preparation and Seamanship

Safety and survival gear, 10.1 beyond life jackets.

While life jackets are essential, there's a range of safety and survival gear that every sailor should consider when venturing into stormy seas. Explore the options, from personal locator beacons to satellite phones, to ensure you're prepared for emergencies.

10.2 Storm Anchoring Strategies

Effective storm anchoring can be a lifesaver when you need to ride out a tempest. We'll cover various storm anchoring strategies and the equipment you'll need to implement them successfully.

The World of Storm Sails Beyond Sydney

Global storm sail resources, 11.1 international sail markets.

While Sydney offers excellent options for acquiring storm sails, there are sail markets worldwide that can cater to your needs. Explore the global sail market and consider the advantages of sourcing storm sails from different regions.

11.2 Storm Sail Maintenance: Best Practices

Maintaining storm sails is a universal concern for sailors. Learn the best practices for inspecting, repairing, and storing your sails, regardless of your location, to ensure they are always ready for action.

Navigating Stormy Waters: A Sailor's Journey

Real-life storm sail stories, 12.1 tales of triumph and perseverance.

Hear firsthand accounts from experienced sailors who have faced the fury of Mother Nature and emerged victorious. These inspiring stories will remind you of the resilience of the human spirit and the power of preparation.

The Future of Storm Sails

13.1 sustainable sailing.

As environmental awareness grows, so does the importance of sustainability in sailing. Explore how the sailing community is embracing eco-friendly practices and innovations in storm sail technology.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our Magazine .

Check out our latest sailing content:

14.1 joining sailing clubs and communities.

Sailing is not just a hobby; it's a vibrant and welcoming community. Consider joining a local sailing club or an online sailing community where you can connect with fellow sailors, exchange experiences, and learn from one another. These communities often organize events, regattas, and workshops, providing you with opportunities to enhance your skills and make lasting friendships.

14.2 Nautical Charts and Navigation Tools

Navigating the open sea requires a solid understanding of nautical charts and navigation tools. Invest time in learning how to read charts, plot courses, and use GPS and radar systems effectively. These skills are invaluable, especially when you're relying on your own navigation in stormy conditions.

Celebrating Sailing Heritage

15.1 explore historic sailing vessels.

Take a step back in time by exploring historic sailing vessels. Many museums and maritime heritage sites offer the chance to board and tour classic sailboats, from majestic tall ships to vintage yachts. These encounters can provide inspiration and a deep appreciation for the rich history of sailing.

15.2 Sailboat Restoration Projects

For those with a passion for craftsmanship, consider engaging in a sailboat restoration project. Restoring an old sailboat to its former glory can be a labor of love and an opportunity to learn about traditional boatbuilding techniques. It's a fulfilling endeavor that connects you to the roots of sailing.

Passing the Sailing Legacy

16.1 teaching the next generation.

Sailing is a timeless art, and passing on your knowledge to the next generation is a noble pursuit. Whether you mentor young sailors, teach sailing courses, or introduce your own children to the joys of sailing, you contribute to the preservation of this cherished tradition.

16.2 Sailing Education and Scholarships

Many organizations offer sailing scholarships and educational programs to support aspiring sailors. Investigate these opportunities, as they can provide access to formal training and certifications, opening doors to a world of sailing adventures.

Sailing Beyond Storms

17.1 calm waters and clear skies.

While storm sailing is a crucial skill for any sailor, remember that most of your sailing journeys will take place in calm waters and under clear skies. Enjoy the serenity of peaceful sailing, basking in the beauty of sunsets, starry nights, and the gentle lapping of waves against your hull.

17.2 Sailing Destinations

The world is your oyster when it comes to sailing destinations. From the azure waters of the Caribbean to the rugged coastlines of Scandinavia, there are countless places to explore. Research and plan your dream sailing itinerary, and set sail for adventures that will create memories to last a lifetime.

Final Thoughts

Sailing, with all its challenges and rewards, is a journey of a lifetime. As you navigate through the diverse seas, adapt to changing weather, and embrace the art of seamanship, you'll discover that sailing is not just a hobby; it's a way of life. It teaches resilience, patience, and a deep connection to the forces of nature.

In the end, whether you're facing a raging storm or gliding gracefully under a clear sky, always remember the essence of sailing lies not only in reaching your destination but in the journey itself. May your sails be ever full, your adventures boundless, and your love for sailing unwavering. Fair winds and following seas, fellow mariners.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our range of charter boats and head to some of our favourite  sailing destinations.

I am ready to help you with booking a boat for your dream vacation. Contact me.

Denisa Kliner Nguyenová

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What is a storm jib and how to use one

15 October 2019

A storm jib is familiar to most sailors and can be a very useful addition to the cruiser’s sail plan as it offers a robust, useful headsail that can usually be relied upon to combine well with a reefed mainsail , a tri-sail or even a mizzen sail to provide a stable and effective sail plan in anything over say 30 kts of true wind.

Usually small and very robust, a storm sail is made of durable, heavyweight fabric and is normally set either on the forestay or an inner forestay. The tack is usually set by way of a strop which is itself attached to the deck. This allows this relatively small, yankee-cut sail to be rigged quite high off the deck, clear of any green water that is likely to be washing across the foredeck in a heavy sea.

The luff is probably best hanked onto a steel forestay with strong, brass piston hanks, but with the common use of furling headsails on modern cruising yachts these days, storm jibs are sometimes hanked onto a strong nylon sheath which envelopes the furled headsail and is hoisted (attached to the jib and sheath by a second halyard).

When setting the storm jib make sure to rig it sooner than you need it. If you are able to set it on a second forestay or inner forestay this gives you maximum flexibility when choosing when to reduce headsail or furl away the remnants of your genoa. If you use the sheathing method the best you can hope for is to set the sheath around the partially furled genoa (but above the furling mechanism) and make sure that when you furl away the headsail you don’t trap or damage the sail or the furling mechanism. 

Then, you’ll need to secure the genoa sheets and re-run the storm jib’s sheets, making sure to run them properly through the cars and back to the winches. Make sure to set the car positions and have the sheets run properly at the shrouds. If sailing upwind, it’s not unusual to have to set the sheets inside the shrouds to allow proper trim.

It’s good practice to have the storm jib kept in a bag with its own sheets securely attached to the clew so that it can be rigged on the foredeck without too much hassle. Make sure you attach the tack first so that you don’t lose the sail! Then hank it on and run the sheets and attach the halyard as appropriate. If you can run everything in parallel with the working headsail then great, if not, make sure everything is properly secured and keep an eye on sheet runs and halyards. Make sure your new halyard isn’t twisted when you hoist, especially as it may be at night. After all, weather always seems to be at its worst after dark!

It makes sense to practice all of this alongside whilst the kettle is able to be regularly boiled and the biscuits are within easy reach for a relaxed debrief. Rigging storm sails for the first time in a severe gale is just asking for trouble. And the biscuits will get soggy too.

Related articles:

• What is a Tri-Sail and How to Use One.
• Why do we reef and what does it achieve?
• What is the difference between ‘In Mast’ and ‘Slab’ Reefing?
• What is the difference between a symmetric and asymmetric spinnaker?​
• Best Books on Sail Trim

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The Storm Jib and Storm Trysail Techniques

Navigating through storms is an essential skill for any sailor, and understanding storm sails like the storm jib and storm trysail can help ensure the safety of your family and your boat.

Sailing the open seas with your family is an incredible experience, but it’s essential to be prepared for all types of weather, including storms. In this article, we’ll discuss two essential storm tactics and preparation techniques: the storm jib and storm trysail. These techniques will help you navigate through rough weather and ensure the safety of your family and your boat.

Table of Contents

Understanding storm sails, selecting the right storm jib, setting up the storm jib, using the storm jib, selecting the right storm trysail, setting up the storm trysail, using the storm trysail, storm tactics and preparation tips.

Before we dive into the specifics of the storm jib and storm trysail, it’s essential to understand the purpose of storm sails. Storm sails are smaller, heavy-duty sails designed to replace your regular sails during heavy weather. They are built to withstand strong winds and rough seas, allowing you to maintain control of your boat and minimize the risk of damage.

There are two primary types of storm sails: the storm jib and the storm trysail. The storm jib is a small, triangular sail that replaces your boat’s regular jib or genoa. The storm trysail is a small, triangular sail that replaces your boat’s mainsail. Both sails are designed to work together to provide stability and control during a storm.

The Storm Jib

The storm jib is an essential piece of equipment for any sailor venturing into open waters. It is a small, heavy-duty sail that replaces your boat’s regular jib or genoa during heavy weather. The storm jib is designed to withstand strong winds and rough seas, allowing you to maintain control of your boat and minimize the risk of damage.

When choosing a storm jib for your boat, there are several factors to consider:

Size: The storm jib should be significantly smaller than your boat’s regular jib or genoa. A general rule of thumb is that the storm jib’s area should be about 25% of your boat’s working jib. This smaller size allows the sail to handle strong winds without overpowering your boat.

Material: Storm jibs should be made from heavy-duty, durable materials that can withstand the harsh conditions of a storm. Look for sails made from high-quality Dacron or similar materials, with a weight of at least 9-10 ounces per square yard.

Construction: The storm jib should be built to withstand the rigors of heavy weather. Look for features such as triple-stitched seams, reinforced corners, and heavy-duty sailcloth.

Attachment Points: Ensure that the storm jib has strong attachment points for halyards, sheets, and tack. These points should be reinforced to handle the increased loads during a storm.

Before a storm hits, it’s essential to set up your storm jib correctly. Here are the steps to follow:

Remove the Regular Jib: Before you can set up the storm jib, you’ll need to remove your boat’s regular jib or genoa. This can be done by furling the sail or lowering it to the deck and securing it.

Attach the Storm Jib: Attach the storm jib to your boat’s forestay using the halyard, sheets, and tack. Ensure that the sail is securely fastened and that all lines are properly tensioned.

Adjust the Sail: Once the storm jib is in place, adjust the sail’s shape using the sheets and halyard. The sail should be relatively flat, with minimal draft, to handle the strong winds of a storm.

When sailing in heavy weather, the storm jib provides several benefits:

Reduced Heeling: The smaller size of the storm jib reduces the amount of force exerted on your boat, minimizing heeling and making the boat more stable.

Improved Balance: The storm jib helps balance your boat by providing forward drive, which works in conjunction with the storm trysail to maintain control in rough seas.

Easier Handling: The storm jib is easier to handle than a full-sized jib or genoa, making it simpler to adjust and trim during a storm.

The Storm Trysail

The storm trysail is another essential piece of equipment for sailors venturing into open waters. It is a small, heavy-duty sail that replaces your boat’s mainsail during heavy weather. Like the storm jib, the storm trysail is designed to withstand strong winds and rough seas, allowing you to maintain control of your boat and minimize the risk of damage.

When choosing a storm trysail for your boat, consider the following factors:

Size: The storm trysail should be significantly smaller than your boat’s regular mainsail. A general rule of thumb is that the storm trysail’s area should be about 15% of your boat’s working mainsail. This smaller size allows the sail to handle strong winds without overpowering your boat.

Material: Like the storm jib, the storm trysail should be made from heavy-duty, durable materials that can withstand the harsh conditions of a storm. Look for sails made from high-quality Dacron or similar materials, with a weight of at least 9-10 ounces per square yard.

Construction: The storm trysail should be built to withstand the rigors of heavy weather. Look for features such as triple-stitched seams, reinforced corners, and heavy-duty sailcloth.

Attachment Points: Ensure that the storm trysail has strong attachment points for halyards, sheets, and tack. These points should be reinforced to handle the increased loads during a storm.

Before a storm hits, it’s essential to set up your storm trysail correctly. Here are the steps to follow:

Remove the Mainsail: Before you can set up the storm trysail, you’ll need to remove your boat’s regular mainsail. This can be done by lowering the sail to the deck and securing it.

Attach the Storm Trysail: Attach the storm trysail to your boat’s mast and boom using the halyard, sheets, and tack. Ensure that the sail is securely fastened and that all lines are properly tensioned.

Adjust the Sail: Once the storm trysail is in place, adjust the sail’s shape using the sheets and halyard. The sail should be relatively flat, with minimal draft, to handle the strong winds of a storm.

When sailing in heavy weather, the storm trysail provides several benefits:

Reduced Heeling: The smaller size of the storm trysail reduces the amount of force exerted on your boat, minimizing heeling and making the boat more stable.

Improved Balance: The storm trysail helps balance your boat by providing aft drive, which works in conjunction with the storm jib to maintain control in rough seas.

Easier Handling: The storm trysail is easier to handle than a full-sized mainsail, making it simpler to adjust and trim during a storm.

In addition to using the storm jib and storm trysail, there are several other tactics and preparation tips to help you navigate through a storm:

Monitor the Weather: Keep a close eye on the weather forecast and be prepared to adjust your plans if a storm is approaching.

Practice Sail Changes: Practice setting up and using your storm sails in calm conditions, so you’re familiar with the process when a storm hits.

Secure Loose Items: Ensure that all loose items on your boat are securely stowed or tied down to prevent damage during a storm.

Reef Early: If you’re caught in a storm without storm sails, reef your regular sails early to reduce their size and minimize the risk of damage.

Heave-to or Deploy a Sea Anchor: In extreme conditions, consider heaving-to or deploying a sea anchor to slow your boat’s progress and maintain control.

The storm jib and storm trysail are essential tools for any sailor venturing into open waters. By selecting the right sails, setting them up correctly, and using them effectively, you can navigate through heavy weather and ensure the safety of your family and your boat. Additionally, by practicing good storm tactics and preparation, you’ll be better equipped to handle whatever Mother Nature throws your way.

Storm Sails: The Ultimate Guide

Looking for the right storm sail to weather any wind.

Sailing in rough weather can be a challenging and sometimes even dangerous experience, but with the right preparation and equipment, it can also be incredibly rewarding. Storm sails are one of the most important pieces of equipment for any sailor looking to safely navigate through high winds and heavy seas.

The importance of storm sails cannot be overstated, as they can mean the difference between safely navigating through a storm and experiencing a catastrophic failure that could put both the crew and the vessel at risk.

But choosing the right storm sails for your boat and learning how to use them effectively requires a solid understanding of sailing theory and practice.

In this article, we’ll provide you with a comprehensive guide to storm sails, covering everything from the different types of storm sails available to how to properly hoist and trim them.

Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a novice, this guide will give you the knowledge and confidence you need to navigate through any storm with ease and safety.

Table of Contents

What is a storm sail, what does a storm jib do, when should you use a storm sail, storm sails for cruisers, racing storm sails.

• Custom Storm Sails

What Materials Are Storm Sails Made Of?

How much do storm sails cost, how to rig a storm jib, how to look after your storm sail, why are storm jibs orange, should you take the sails down in a storm, do you need storm sails for offshore sailing, what size should a storm sail be.

• Third Reef vs Trysail

Where Can You Buy A Storm Sail?

A storm jib is a type of sail that is specifically designed to be used in heavy weather, when winds are high, the sea state is rough and sailing conditions are becoming dangerous . It is typically a small, triangular sail that is hoisted at the bow of the boat, and it is used in conjunction with other storm sails to help the boat maintain stability and control.

Storm sails are designed to be used in extreme weather conditions and are made from heavier, stronger materials than standard sails.

They are typically smaller than regular sails, with a higher aspect ratio to better withstand gusts and prevent the boat from heeling over too much.

The primary function of a storm jib is to help the boat maintain forward momentum in the face of strong winds and heavy seas.

When the wind is too strong to fly your usual sail setup, it can be difficult to maintain speed and keep the boat moving in a straight line. The storm jib helps to counteract these forces by providing additional power to the boat’s forward motion, allowing it to continue moving through the water.

In addition to providing forward momentum, a storm jib also helps to maintain the boat’s balance and stability. When the wind and waves are pushing against the boat, it can be difficult to keep it upright and prevent it from heeling over too far.

The storm jib helps to counteract this tendency by providing additional lift to the bow of the boat, helping to keep it level and balanced in even the roughest conditions.

Overall, a storm jib is an essential piece of equipment for any sailor who wants to safely navigate through heavy weather conditions. Understanding the function and importance of the storm jib can help you stay safe and in control when the winds and waves are at their strongest.

Storm sails are specifically designed to be used when the winds and waves are too strong for regular sails to handle, and they provide a range of benefits that can help keep the boat and crew safe in even the most challenging conditions.

There are several signs that indicate it is time to use a storm sail. These include:

• Wind speed: If the wind speed has caused you to fully reef and the boat still feels overpowered then you should have probably already switched to a storm sail.
• Sea state: If the waves are high and the sea state is rough, it can be difficult to maintain control of the boat using regular sails alone. Switching to a storm sail can help provide additional stability and control.
• Boat size: Smaller boats are generally more vulnerable to heavy weather conditions than larger boats. If you are sailing a smaller boat and the winds and waves are particularly strong, it may be wise to switch to a storm sail.
• Crew experience: If you or your crew are not experienced in sailing in heavy weather conditions, it may be safer to switch to a storm sail. These sails are specifically designed to be easier to handle and more forgiving than regular sails, making them a good option for novice sailors.

Overall, it is important to pay close attention to the conditions and to use your judgment when deciding whether to switch to a storm sail.

By understanding the signs and being prepared, you can help ensure the safety and well-being of both your crew and your vessel.

It might be that using a storm sail isn’t the right course of action and you need to heave to instead, or run bare poles. The only way you’ll be able to make that judgment is through gaining experience in different conditions, on different boats and with different crew.

The Different Types Of Storm Sails

There are a few different types of storm sail to suit your different needs, so have a think about what types of sailing you do the most to work out which is most appropriate for your needs.

Almost every cruiser, especially those taking on ocean crossings or offshore passages, will own a storm sail.

Typically, they will carry a basic dacron sail that can be stored easily and is easy to rig in an emergency. Most come in an weather proof box that can be stowed alongside your other emergency kit.

These type of storm sails tend to be affordable and universal, meaning you won’t have to custom order your storm jib. You can just buy the right size sail for your boat instead.

For sailors looking to maintain a decent speed in the face of heavy weather there are storm sails more suited to race sailors available.

Many race sailors opt for slightly larger storm jibs than the basic, off the shelf ones most used by cruisers. They might have a deeper reef and longer leech to add to the size of the canvas. These sails give you more control and ultimately, more speed.

Race sailors might find the need for stronger storm sails too, as they will likely be pushing them harder and using them for longer. For this reason, racing storm sails are usually reinforced in the areas that are most likely to see more wear and tear.

Storm sails are typically made of heavy-duty materials that are designed to withstand the toughest weather conditions. The most common materials used for storm sails include high-strength synthetic fibers such as traditional materials like Dacron and nylon.

These materials are chosen for their durability, strength, and resistance to UV damage, salt water, and abrasion.

Dacron is one of the most common sail materials but a storm sail will differ in terms of thickness and colour.

The specific material used for a storm sail will depend on the size and type of boat, as well as the expected weather conditions.

Storm sails are actually pretty affordable compared with how much standard sails cost and other emergency equipment like life rafts, so there really is no excuse not to grab yourself one before setting sail!

For a standard basic storm sail you can expect to pay between $494.99 – $1,099.99. The lower priced sails will be suitable for smaller boats and much larger boats will need to pay for sails in the upper price band.

If you need an even cheaper alternative you might consider looking on the second hand market. As many storm sails come in standard sizes it will be easier to find a sail for sale that fits your boat and needs. Just make sure you give it a good inspection and deal with any repairs immediately.

Obviously, you can choose to get a fancy custom storm sail with all the bells and whistles, and you will pay a lot more for one of those.

The first thing you should always do when you get your new storm jib is to test out rigging it. The last thing you want to do is be stuck in a storm trying to work out how to hank it on properly.

Each storm jib will be slightly different so it’s important to work out how to use your specific type, but here are the rough steps to rig a storm jib:

• Remove the current headsail: Before rigging a storm jib, the current jib sail might have to be removed to make room for the storm jib.
• Prepare the storm jib: The storm jib should be prepared and ready to hoist before starting the rigging process. Make sure that all of the sheets and halyards are properly attached to the sail. It’s best if you store the sail with sheets attached.
• Attach the clew and halyard: Attach the storm jib clew and also the halyard to the head of the sail. The halyard should be attached securely, and the line should be free of knots or tangles.
• Hank on the sail and raise
• Attach the sheets if this wasn’t pre-done
• Tension the sheets: Tension the sheets until the sail is properly trimmed and the sail is flat. The sail should not be too loose or too tight.
• Adjust the tack: Adjust the tack of the sail so that the sail is properly aligned with the wind. The tack should be adjusted until the sail is fully powered.
• Trim the sail: Once the sail is properly aligned, trim the sail to optimize its performance in the current wind conditions.
• Check the rigging: Finally, check all of the rigging and make sure that everything is properly secured and free of knots or tangles.

Remember that rigging a storm jib should be done carefully to ensure the safety of the crew and the boat.

Taking good care of your storm sail is essential if you want it to perform at its best when you need it most.

Storm sails are typically made from heavy-duty materials that are designed to withstand the toughest weather conditions, but they still require regular maintenance and upkeep to ensure they stay in top condition.

Here are some tips on how to look after your storm sail:

• Clean your sail regularly: Salt, dirt, and debris can all take their toll on your sail over time. To keep it in good condition, make sure to clean it regularly using warm water.
• Dry your sail thoroughly: After cleaning your sail, make sure to dry it thoroughly before storing it away. Any residual moisture can lead to mold and mildew, which can weaken the fabric over time.
• Store your sail properly: When not in use, store your sail in a dry, cool place away from direct sunlight. Make sure to fold it carefully to avoid creases that can weaken the fabric.
• Inspect your sail regularly: Regularly inspect your storm sail for signs of wear and tear, including frayed edges, holes, and weakened areas. If you notice any damage, have it repaired as soon as possible to prevent further damage.

By taking good care of your storm sail, you can help ensure that it is always ready to perform at its best when you need it most. With proper maintenance and upkeep, your storm sail can provide you with years of reliable service in even the toughest weather conditions.

Here are some more of the most frequently asked questions on the topic of storm sails.

Storm jibs are often colored bright orange or fluorescent yellow to increase their visibility in low-light or stormy conditions.

This high-visibility color makes it easier for other boats and rescue crews to spot your vessel in an emergency, which can be critical in situations where time is of the essence.

Additionally, bright colors can help make it easier for crew members to see and handle the sail in low-light or stormy conditions, reducing the risk of accidents or mishaps.

Overall, the bright orange color of storm jibs serves an important safety function, helping to keep sailors and their vessels safe in even the most challenging weather conditions.

Whether or not to take the sails down in a storm depends on a variety of factors, including the severity of the storm, the size and type of boat, and the experience and skill level of the crew.

In some cases, it may be safer to take the sails down completely and rely on the engine to navigate through the storm. If the wind is particularly strong you might in danger of losing the mast entirely! In other cases, it may be safer to reduce sail and continue sailing through the storm using a storm sail and heavily reefed main sail.

One of the main concerns with leaving the sails up in a storm is the risk of damage to the sails or rigging. Strong winds and waves can put a great deal of stress on the boat and its equipment, and it is important to take steps to reduce this stress as much as possible.

Ultimately, the decision of whether or not to take the sails down in a storm should be based on a careful assessment of the conditions and a consideration of the safety of the crew and the vessel.

If in doubt, it is always better to err on the side of caution and take the necessary precautions to keep everyone safe. Scour the best sailing forums for advice on tackling storms at sea.

Storm sails are an important piece of safety equipment for offshore sailing, as they are specifically designed to handle the extreme weather conditions that can be encountered at sea.

While not every offshore sailing trip will require the use of storm sails, they are an essential part of any sailor’s toolkit for dealing with unexpected storms or weather events.

When planning an offshore sailing trip, it is important to take into account the potential weather conditions that could be encountered along the way. In areas where strong winds and rough seas are common, it is especially important to have a set of storm sails on board to ensure that you are prepared for any eventuality.

Ultimately, the decision of whether or not to bring storm sails on an offshore sailing trip will depend on a variety of factors, including the size and type of boat, the experience level of the crew, and the expected weather conditions.

We feel it is better to be safe than sorry and to err on the side of caution by bringing a set of storm sails along on your offshore adventure, and personally we wouldn’t leave port without one.

Saying that, in our 4 years of sailing the Med we haven’t once had to use a storm sail. We have been lucky that bad weather has always hit when we are close enough to anchorage to motor, or we have found we can use our smaller stay sail instead. This is a huge advantage of our cutter rigged vessel.

These sizes are taken from Precision Sails , a reputable sail maker who we can speak highly of from experience.

Head to Precision Sails now to check out their top-quality storm sails.

You can buy a storm sail from any reputable sail maker, and sometimes from the second hand market.

We can highly recommend Precision Sails if you’re looking for new sails. Their sails are of excellent quality and the staff there really know what they’re talking about!

Conclusion: The Ultimate Guide To Storm Sails

In conclusion, storm sails are essential safety equipment for any sailor venturing out into open waters. They are specifically designed to withstand high winds and rough seas, providing stability and control to the vessel.

We hope that by following the guidelines outlined in this guide, sailors can equip themselves with the knowledge and tools necessary to navigate even the most extreme weather conditions.

Worried about sailing in a storm? Check out these sailing quotes to arm you with inspiration and courage!

Further reading

• The best lifejackets for sailing
• Best sailing drysuits
• Winter sailing jackets

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The storm jib is a sailboat jib for more powerful sailing.

• Post author: Anns
• Post published: October 25, 2022
• Post category: Uncategorized
• Post comments: 0 Comments

Introduction

When it comes to sailing, there’s no such thing as a perfect day. A storm jib is designed for rough weather and can help you stay safe if the conditions turn bad. If you want to know more about this type of sail, read on!

What is a storm jib?

A storm jib is a smaller version of the main sail on a sailing boat. This type of sail is used when you want to go faster than with a regular jib or only want to go in one direction without stopping and turning around.

A storm jib is attached to the bowsprit, which is a pole that sticks out from the front of your boat and attaches to your mainmast (tallest part of your sail). It’s kind of like having two masts instead of just one!

Should you use a storm jib?

If you think it’s likely that you will be sailing in the ocean, consider purchasing a storm jib. Storm jibs are generally more powerful than other types of sails and can help make your boat go faster, especially in heavy weather. If you want to get prepared for any kind of weather, then a storm jib may be useful as well—it can help save time by allowing you to quickly change your sail plan when needed.

How does it work?

A storm jib is a small sail, typically with a span of around 20 to 30 feet. It’s attached to the forestay of your boat, which is the mast that goes along your boat’s centerline. The storm jib essentially works as an additional sail over your main sail (the largest one), helping reduce stress on this larger canvas.

The reason for using multiple sails rather than just one massive sail is because it allows you to adjust power output for certain conditions on the water. For example, when wind speeds are high and gusty but not quite strong enough for gale-force winds, you can lower your main sails by using a storm jib in order to control speed without being overpowered by heavy waves or sudden gusts from direction changes off shore – this will protect both crew members from injury due to sudden movements while also reducing wear-and-tear on equipment like ropes used during sailing trips!

How to deploy and stow the storm jib

In this section, we’ll discuss how to deploy and stow the storm jib. First, let’s go over the basics: A storm jib is a small sail that can be hoisted on top of or behind the mainmast. It’s usually triangular in shape and has three sides, although some are square-shaped with four sides instead of three. The purpose of using a storm jib is to increase your boat’s speed by increasing its wind profile so it can catch more of the wind’s power for sailing.

You may have noticed that there are two different types of sails on your boat: foresails and mainsails; both types have their own uses but they work differently depending on what type of sailing you’re doing (e.g., racing vs cruising). In order to understand how these sails perform differently during different activities like sailing races versus coastal cruising trips where there aren’t many other boats around so visibility isn’t as important as having fun while out exploring nature at its finest moments!

Tips for safer sailing

As with any sailing activity, it’s important to be aware of the weather forecast and plan accordingly. If you know that there is a chance that bad weather could arrive, make sure your boat has enough fuel for the trip and to get back home safely.

If you do encounter a storm, having an emergency plan in place can help keep everyone safe. It’s also important to make sure someone knows where you are going and when they should expect you back.

If something goes wrong on board (such as getting caught in a squall), or if another vessel needs assistance, having a radio handy will allow them to call for help immediately.

A storm jib can give you peace of mind on your next outing.

A storm jib is an essential piece of equipment that every sailor should have in their boat, especially if they’re going out alone or with a small crew. If a storm comes up and takes the main sail, it can be difficult to get it back up; but with a storm jib, you’ll have options.

Storms are unpredictable—and sometimes come up suddenly—so having a backup plan is important when sailing. A good rule of thumb for storms is to prepare for the worst so that if something does happen (like getting caught in an unexpected rain shower), you won’t be caught unprepared!

We hope that this blog has helped you understand what a storm jib is and whether or not it’s right for your sailing. Remember that safety is the most important thing when it comes to being on the water, so if you’re unsure about any of these tips we recommend consulting with a professional.

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Heavy weather sailing: How to reduce sail in a storm

• Theo Stocker
• May 26, 2023

It’s one thing dealing with heavy weather sailing offshore, but what should coastal sailors do when they need to shorten sail in a blow? Martin Thomas explains, and Theo Stocker puts it to the test

Knowing the theory behind how to reduce sail in a storm is one thing, but does that theory work id you do get caught out? We took to the Solent on 40 knot winds to find out if the usual advice was easy to put into practise while a sea in inclement weather.

This is the second on a new Yachting Monthly series with the first part covering how to prepare your boat for a storm . We thought it was worth drawing on the combined knowledge of the seasoned sailors who have contributed to the latest edition of Adland Coles’ bible on the subject of windy weather, Heavy Weather Sailing , examining what should be done in heavy weather in coastal water, and then trying it out to see what works in practice.

Yachting Monthly editor Theo Stocker volunteered for this enviable duty, which he insists was actually great fun, and having watched the weather forecast all winter, managed to line up yachts, RIBs, crew and photographers with a Force 8 gale in order to go and play in the rough stuff.

For this endeavour Theo wanted a sturdy yacht that would be up to taking on extreme weather easily. And for that, you hardly need look further than the ever-faithful Contessa 32 . Assent was formerly owned by Willy Ker and is now owned by the Rogers family and skippered on the day by Kit Rogers, second-generation builder of Contessa 32s, among other things, at Jeremy Rogers Ltd in Lymington.

Genoas will wrinkle and bag when reefed due to the belly cut into the sail. A new, well-cut sail will be better behaved. Photo: Richard Langdon

Reducing sail in a storm

The first action to take as the wind rises is to shorten sail. Reef early and start by reefing the main, especially if you are still trying to make to windward. For most coastal and cruising sailors, standard reefing points are sufficient, although many new sails will have just two rows of reefing points, with a corresponding paucity of deck hardware.

It is sensible to specify a third reef as standard, and to find ways to handle the additional controls. If worse weather is anticipated then ask a sailmaker to put in a deep reef, usually a fourth reef. Be sure that the deep reef luff cringle will reach the staghorn, using a pair of ‘spectacles’ (two rings secured by a webbing strap through the cringle) if necessary. Some racing organisations such as RORC insist that boats carry a trysail, but for cruisers, in my view, this is not necessary. A trysail is a difficult sail for a short-handed crew to rig, especially in the conditions when it might be needed.

Article continues below…

A partly furled Genoa becomes baggy and performs poorly when the boat is close- hauled. If you plan to make longer voyages, when encountering rough weather is more likely, then fit a removable inner forestay before you set out. This can hang quietly attached to the toe rail or chain plate until needed. Then as the storm approaches, it can be deployed with a ratchet, wheel or lever to tighten the wire and a reduced headsail hanked on.

Having been under load, the genoa needed extra turns round the foil to furl away fully. Photo: Richard Langdon

Such a headsail will set kindly in strong conditions even when hauled to the wind. Be sure to have a suitable lead for the sheets as the blocks for the furling Genoa may not be in the right place.

Carry a storm jib of heavier canvas, although for most sailors the storm jib will be flown rarely, if ever. With a fully reefed main and a Number 3 jib or storm jib set on an inner forestay, most cruisers can survive quite severe weather for long enough to reach shelter.

It would be worth consulting a rigger or surveyor before fitting such an arrangement to agree the best means of doing so, and that both rig and deck attachment points will be strong enough to support the loads.

We lashed the reef clew down to keep it close to the boom. Photo: Richard Langdon

Our experience of reducing sail in a storm

Willy Ker said of Assent that ‘You can stick more or less anything with three reefs and the jib rolled well in. If it gets really nasty, I roll the headsail away. I don’t think I’ve ever set a storm jib.’ So setting a storm jib and trysail may have been overly cautious, but it was a good exercise.

For most of our time on the water, we had the deep third reef tucked in the main. A handkerchief compared to the full main, it set flat with good tension, and supported the boom at a sensible height. We did have to re-lead the first reef line as the third, as it gets used so rarely. Doing anything with the boom in heavy weather is best avoided, so if you can keep the third reef rigged, it is makes life easier

Deck work upwind is a damp and precarious experience. Photo: Richard Langdon

Genoa furling

We began with a scrap of the furling genoa. Assent was fitted with a fairly new and very nice set of Kevlar-reinforced dacron cruising sails from Sanders which hold their shape extremely well, and I was pleasantly surprised by how well the Genoa set even when heavily furled, compared to the wrinkled bag I was left with on my own Sadler 29’s stretchy genoa, that served only to induce heel and pull the bow off the wind.

The thing that caught us out was that, despite having been used as it was for over two year without issue, when using the roller-furling to reef the Genoa in a blow, the force of the wind pulled the turns of sail much tighter around the foil, exacerbated by any stretch in the furling line. Once we’d reached the end of the furling line, we still needed three or four more turns to get the sail away. The only way to achieve this was unreeving the sheets and passing them around the forestay, after which we had sufficient turns – not a fun job in heavy weather.

Getting a good sheeting angle is critical. Two sheet cars meant we could keep both sheets rigged. Photo: Richard Langdon

Rigging the storm jib

Hanking on the storm jib was fairly straightforward, and made easier with two people on deck. There was a little bit of guess work as to which way to lead the sheets around the shrouds and whether the forward genoa car would be suitable. As the storm jib was very high-clewed, it actually worked well with the car position, and it was best to keep the sheets outside the shrouds, even when close hauled, as we were sailing a fairly free angle. Re-leading the sheets and moving the genoa car, as we needed to for the genoa when heavily furled, required putting someone on deck, and tacking to free off the leeward side.

It is worth knowing which way to lead sheets before you have to do it for real to minimise time on deck. It isn’t always obvious if you haven’t tried it beforehand.

The trysail is a faff to rig, but a brilliant sail once set. Photo: Richard Langdon

Possibly the least used sail in any boat’s wardrobe, and for good reason. If you need to use the main mast track, getting the main sliders out and trysail sliders in was a pig of a job. The mainsail needed lashing down first, then it was a two-person job to wrestle the sliders free, with clevis pins and split rings that in these conditions were fiddly and potentially easy to lose, yet critical to the functioning of the system.

We led the sheets to the secondary winches via the spinnaker blocks on the quarters, which worked well, though they did cross the cockpit to do so.

If you can avoid this palaver, I would. You would be better to run under storm jib alone, or bare poles, though you will then be restricted to sailing across or downwind. It might be possible to rig a trysail on a wire aft of the mast, or with parrel beads around the mast as an easier method.

Despite all of this, I am a fan of the trysail. It is a brilliant sail once set – we were amazed at how well the boat sailed upwind with it. We clocked over 6 knots in 35-40 knots of wind on a fetch, and could point pretty high upwind. The helm remained balanced, heel was manageable and the boat felt under control. This is basically the only option if you need to make way upwind in extreme conditions, and anecdotes suggest this is one of the safest courses to steer. This may be more important for coastal than offshore sailors, given the potential need to sail upwind away from a lee shore when there isn’t searoom.

A dedicated trysail track would be invaluable if you carry a trysail. Without a track, the effort to rig it, and the risk of people spending a protracted period on deck, may put you off doing so. The sail will increase your options if you’re in a squeeze.

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HOW TO SAIL SAFELY THROUGH A STORM

Tips and tricks to help you get home safe.

Compared to the quick response and sudden nature of a squall , sailing through a storm in open water is an endurance contest. In addition to big wind, you’ll have to deal with big waves and crew fatigue.

Sailing in Waves

Sailing in big waves is a test of seamanship and steering, which is why you should put your best driver on the helm. Experienced dinghy sailors often are very good at heavy air steering, because they see “survival” weather more often than most cruisers.

Avoid sailing on a reach across tall breaking waves; they can roll a boat over. When sailing close-hauled in waves, aim toward flat spots while keeping speed up so you can steer. To reduce the chance of a wave washing across the deck, tack in relatively smooth water. A cubic foot of water weighs 64 pounds, so a wave can bring many hundreds of pounds of water across the deck.

Sailing on a run or broad reach in big waves is exhilarating, but be careful not to broach and bring the boat beam-to a breaker. Rig a preventer to hold the boom out.

Storm Sails

If reefing isn’t enough to reduce power, it’s time to dig out your storm sails — the storm trysail and storm jib. They may seem tiny, but since wind force rises exponentially, they’re the right size for a really big blow. Storm trysails are usually trimmed to the rail, but some modern ones are set on the boom. The storm jib should be set just forward of the mast to keep the sail plan’s center of effort near the boat’s center of lateral resistance. This helps keep the boat in balance.

Storm Strategy

The first decision before an approaching storm is the toughest: Run for cover, or head out to open water for sea room? With modern forecasting, a true storm will rarely arrive unannounced, but as you venture further offshore the chances of being caught out increase. While running for cover would seem the preferred choice, the danger lies in being caught in the storm, close to shore, with no room to maneuver or run off.

Two classic storm strategies are to try to keep away from land so you’re not blown up on shore, and to sail away from the storm’s path — especially its “dangerous semicircle,” which is its right side as it advances.

Storm Tactics

Storm tactics help you handle a storm once you’re in it. There are several proven choices, all of which aim to reduce the strain and motion by pointing one of the boat’s ends (either bow or stern) toward the waves. No one tactic will work best for all boats in all conditions.

Sail under storm jib and deeply reefed mainsail or storm trysail. This approach provides the most control. Sails give you the power to steer and control your boat in the waves.

Run before the storm with the stern toward the waves, perhaps towing a drogue to slow the boat. This tactic requires a lot of sea room, and the boat must be steered actively. Another concern is that you will remain in front of an approaching storm, rather than sailing out of its path.

Heave-to on a close reach with the jib trimmed to windward. Heaving-to can be an excellent heavy weather tactic, though some boats fare better than others.

Deploy a sea anchor while hove-to or under bare poles. A sea anchor is a small parachute set at the end of a line off the bow. A sea anchor helps keep the bow up into the waves so the boat won’t end up beam to the seas. One concern is the load on the rudder as waves push the boat aft.

Another alternative is lying ahull, simply sitting with sails down. This passive alternative is less reliable than the other tactics, as you lose the ability to control your angle to the waves and may end up beam to the seas. Furthermore, the motion of the boat rolling in the waves without the benefit of sails can be debilitating.

Want to order a storm trysail or storm jib for your boat? Contact a North Sails Expert here .

How to Heave-To

Wouldn’t it be great if, during a heavy air sail, you could just take a break, and relax for a bit? Imagine a short respite from the relentless pitching and pounding: a chance to rest, take a meal, or check over the boat in relative tranquility. Well, you can. The lost art of heaving-to allows you to “park” in open water.

To heave-to, trim the jib aback (i.e., to the wrong side), trim the main in hard, and lash the helm so the boat will head up once it gains steerageway. As the jib tries to push the bow down, the bow turns off the wind and the main fills, moving the boat forward. Once the boat begins to make headway, the lashed helm turns the boat toward the wind again. As the main goes soft the jib once again takes over, pushing the bow down. The main refills, and the rudder pushes the bow into the wind again.

The boat won’t actually stop. It will lie about 60 degrees off the wind, sailing at 1 or 2 knots, and making significant leeway (sliding to leeward). The motion will be much less than under sail, and dramatically more stable and pleasant than dropping all sails and lying ahull. You will also be using up less sea room than if you run before the storm at great speed.

Achieving this balance will require some fine tuning, depending on the wind strength, your boat design, and the sails you are flying. Also, fin-keeled boats do not heave to as well as more traditional designs.

In storm seas, some boats will require a sea anchor off the bow to help hold the boat up into the waves while hove-to.

Alternate Storm Strategy: Don’t Go

If conditions are wrong, or are forecast to worsen, don’t go. If you can avoid the storm, then do so.

If you’re at home, stay there. If you’re mid-cruise, button up the boat, make sure your anchor or mooring or dock lines are secure, and then read a book or play cards. Relax. Enjoy the time with your shipmates. Study the pile of Owners’ Manuals you’ve accumulated with each piece of new gear. Tinker with boat projects.

Put some soup on the stove, and check on deck every so often to make sure the boat is secure. Shake your head as you return below, and remark, “My oh my, is it nasty out there.”

If your boat is threatened by a tropical storm or hurricane, strip all excess gear from the deck, double up all docking or mooring lines, protect those lines from chafe, and get off. Don’t risk your life to save your boat.

Misery and Danger

Although everyone will remember it differently years later, a long, wet, cold sail through a storm can be miserable. As the skipper, you need to make the best of it: watch over your crew, offer relief or help to those who need it, and speak a few words of encouragement to all. “This is miserable, but it will end.”

Take the time to marvel at the forces of nature, and at your ability to carry on in the midst of the storm. Few people get to experience the full fury of a storm. It may not be pleasant, but it is memorable.

While misery and discomfort can eventually lead to fatigue, diminished performance, and even danger, do not mistake one for the other. Distinguish in your own mind the difference between misery and danger. Don’t attempt a dangerous harbor entrance to escape misery; that would compromise the safety of the boat and crew, just to avoid a little discomfort.

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We all hope we never use one but it’s astonishing how well your boat will sail with the correct sails if you get caught out in stormy weather. Super strong construction, usually in high visibilty orange, racing rules compliant. See our rigging section or talk to one of our experts re easy handling solutions for all types of mast. Think of it as safety equipment.

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The very best solution for setting is to have the sail hanked onto a stay. A common compromise is a wraparound sail which literally wraps around a furled roller reefing genoa. It does work but be prepared for some collateral damage to headsail and/or reefing system. Forget the idea of setting a storm jib flying, only those who have never hoisted a storm jib in real anger could possibly think it’s a good idea. Speak to one of our team for first hand experience and advice on solutions for fitting emergency inner forestays.

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Classic proportions with a third reef in the mainsail

How the wrap-around storm jib hoists on a nice day. ©sailingscenes.co.uk

Wrap-around storm jib by Crusader Sails. ©sailingscenes.co.uk

Hard pressed

This really is the best way to set a storm jib if you have a roller reefing gear. ©sailingscenes.co.uk

Perfect tool for the job, set on an emergency inner forestay because of a ripped genoa. ©sailingscenes.co.uk

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The perfect storm (jib)

Storm jibs are considered by many sailors to deserve a place only on a secondary list of safety gear, somewhere well below lifejackets, harnesses, liferafts and the like. To an extent this is deserved, as the very best heavy weather tactic is to not find yourself in heavy weather in the first place, so some would argue that on a carefully planned cruise a storm jib will see no use. With decent modern weather forecasting and careful passage planning, if you are not long-term cruising, there’s every reason to expect that this sail will spend its entire life crammed into the bottom of a damp locker somewhere. This lack of likely use, however should not be considered a lack of importance, because, just like your car airbag or seatbelt, you hope never to need it but it’s crucial that it works when you do. We took a look in the forecabins of some of HSY’s sailing tuition fleet to look at their storm jibs and how they are best rigged.

What is a storm jib?

As most cruisers sail with a roller reefing genoa, a more specific question that novices ask is, ‘why can’t I just roll up my genoa really small to cope with heavy weather?’ While in light or medium airs, a roller genoa will work as an effective sail, serious problems begin to arise when it’s rolled down to a scrap of cloth in heavy weather. Firstly, no sail is a flat sheet of fabric; it is cut with a dished shape, or draught. So as it is rolled around the forestay it progressively becomes tighter along the leech and foot, creating more draught, and therefore power in the belly of the sail at the very time you don’t want it. Too much power in a genoa means the boat will be heeled, rather than driven forward, and too much heel will mean an increase in leeway, especially if sailing upwind. Maximising your ability to fight your way off a lee shore is a key safety concept for any boat. Some modern roller genoas are cut with foam inserts in the middle part of the luff to help take up some of this draught when reefed, but it only partially resolves the problem. Another aspect is the fact that a roller genoa needs to be made of a light enough sailcloth to fill in light winds and this compromises it in heavy weather. While it is unlikely for the sailcloth to fail, strong winds put an awful lot of strain on the sail prematurely stretching and ageing it. This same increased strain is also felt on the reefing equipment, one common and undesirable upshot of which is a snapped reefing line. If this happens the sail unrolls with a massive bang, often tangling the remains of broken reefing line up inside the line drum, and suddenly providing the boat with massively more power than she can sensibly cope with. The now loose sheets can tangle themselves together, the sail flogs dramatically and the tangled line drum means another reefing line cannot be quickly fitted. Often the only solution is to send someone up onto the foredeck to take the sail down; which is a risk worth avoiding in heavy weather. If the incident occurs on a lee shore a call to the RNLI often results. As an aside, the lowly, usually stringy roller genoa reefing drum line is one of the most important lines on a boat, but it has a hard life with most of it sat on deck year round, wide open to UV degradation. A useful tip is to change this line every year; you can always chop the old one up and use the bits for fender lines.

Anyway, back to storm jibs, what is required for a heavy weather foresail is another separate sail cut from much heavier cloth, often hank on rather than relying on a boltrope in a sleeve. Additionally such a storm jib will also be more heavily stitched together, be cut quite flat for strong winds, and as an added bonus will often be bright orange for visibility.

When we all sailed with a quiver of different sized hank-on foresails, a storm jib was simply the smallest one of the lot, which we would change down to in due course. Now most of us have a roller genoa the challenge is to ensure that our storm jib is practical to fit, either around or instead of the boat’s rolled up headsail. As usual there is no right answer to these challenges and sailmakers have come up with a number of different solutions, three of which we look at below.

How high to fly?

Setting up the tack line

With all these jibs the tack line was adjustable in length, so that the sail could be rigged any distance above the deck. While your boat might allow it, it would be very unusual to rig a storm jib very close to the deck, for example shackled directly to the bottom of its forestay. The reason for this is that in the very strong winds in which the sail would see use, in any kind of open water there would be a wave height encountered that would be considerably higher than the boat’s deck level. Because the storm jib is a short luffed sail as well as a small one if it is rigged too low to the deck it could loose power in the wave troughs, leading to the boat losing steerage way and all the difficulties of that when it comes to steering the boat effectively up and down the waves. However, rigging the storm jib too high is also problematic, as the higher the sail is rigged the greater its heeling effect on the boat. The compromise solution is one where the sail is as low as it can be rigged without losing too much power in wave troughs, so this clearly differs with the cruising grounds of the boat. A yacht that envisages using its storm jib in the Bay of Biscay will usually have it rigged to fly higher up than a yacht that does not anticipate leaving the English Channel, but in either case it is wise to have an adjustable length tack line as all these did.

Type 1 Hank on with sleeve

This type comes with either an integral sleeve, as demonstrated here or a sleeve that hanks on but is sold separately from the sail itself. The sleeve can be in one piece as here, but there is a third variant with separate loops that pass round the rolled up genoa at the level of each hank.

Dry rigging this system raised an important point; that there will be many boats, like this one without a dedicated second foresail halyard. We had to use the spinnaker halyard, which is not ideal as it exits from ahead of the forestay, and we of course would have prefered a halyard exiting from the mast top just below the forestay.

The genoa is rolled up and a sail tie placed round it, and another sail tie placed around the sheets so they exit the sleeve at the roller drum, if we are using dedicated separate sheets for the storm jib. A key tip here is to ensure you tie the sail tie round the genoa clew passing it through the cringle so the tie cannot slip down.

Don’t have to remove genoa from its foil to fit the storm jib.

Can be cheap solution if you just get an older hank on storm jib and get a  sailmaker to make the sleeve part for it.

We Don’t Like

Cannot really be partially rigged beforehand and prepared ready for use. A lot of friction to combat when hoisting and lowering sail.

The lack of massive changes to your boat mean that this is a cost effective solution. The kit will work on different boats of a similar size as there is little bespoke to your boat about it. While it is not as good as the other two options in terms of sail efficiency, its ease of use and good value make it the best option for most cruisers.

Type 2 DEDICATED INNER FORESTAY

A second forestay is walked forward from the shrouds or the mast and attached to a dedicated fitting behind the outer forestay. There it is clipped and a tensioning lever is used to get it tight. Then a conventional hank on storm jib is raised on this inner forestay. Depending on the size of the boat and how far down the mast this inner stay is rigged from the outer forestay it may require running backstays to ensure the inner forestay’s mast loads are balanced out correctly. It will require a halyard exiting the mast just below the stay, but the spinnaker pole lift is sometimes located conveniently to perform this

second role.

Reduced chafe problems, as there is no sailcloth on sailcloth interaction and hanks working as intended on a wire stay.

Takes the boat’s total centre of effort back to help counteract the mainsail’s centre of effort, which will have moved forward when reefed.

Finer entry of sail than sleeve type and well-tensioned forestay makes it efficient to windward.

Rigging it can be fiddly and awkward.

Weight and cost of additional stay and tensioning device that will be rarely used.

This is the belt and braces solution favoured by serious bluewater cruisers. This system can be excellent if well designed and implemented. In the setup we tried the stay annoyingly needed its length altering by a few inches from how it was stored at the shrouds to how it was rigged for use. This would be an awkward extra task in a seaway. It was also rigged with split pins with spring clips that would leap out of your fingers given half a chance, but these are issues that could easily be addressed to create a slick, dedicated system. If I envisaged ever having to spend a week under storm jib in open ocean, this would be my preferred solution.

Type 3 Boltrope luff

This is a clear evolution from multiple foresails. In order to fit the storm jib, the sail that is currently fitted has to be removed, which in the context of roller furling means it has to be fully unrolled then unsleeved. Initially this sounds like an awful concept, with the idea of sailing under deep reefed genoa, having an increase in wind, then having to unroll and take down the whole sail to change down to storm jib. In reality, it’s not quite so bad, as this boat had a number of intermediate sized headsails and in increasing winds the crew will have changed down progressively before ending up needing the storm jib. Sleeving sails to a foil is also not as secure as hanking to a wire, hence this sail’s additional rope ties to go round the foil.

The storm jib, once fitted can be roller reefed and furled. Actually quite handy in the rare circumstances when you find yourself leaving a safe haven into a gale and wish to prepare sails accordingly.

Good luff entry and hence sailing efficiency and windward performance.

The idea of rolling out the whole of a deep reefed sail in increasing wind and bundling it safely down below.

Getting a bolt rope luff to sleeve can be difficult. When you have to do it at the bow of a yacht in a gale it could be near impossible.

We’ll leave this solution to the racers I think. While it’s good for boatspeed to have different sized sails for different circumstances, having to go onto the foredeck to change them regularly rather defeats the whole object of roller reefi

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Skip Novak’s Storm Sailing Techniques Part 3: storm sails

• September 26, 2014

When we set out to hoist a trysail in 40-plus knots of wind near Cape Horn we soon found out why four reefs in the mainsail is the preferred sailplan of Skip Novak. In this part he looks as storm sails

I have to admit to being highly amused when I hear what pundits have to say about storm jibs and storm trysails. In my IOR racing days (I go back to the days before headfoils!), we often used the No 5 – in effect, a storm jib, hanked onto the headstay by a crew of heavyweights while half-underwater.

Trysails? Well, I used one once on the last leg of the 1981-82 Whitbread Round the World Race. We were in a blow off the Azores and had damaged the mainsail. But we wouldn’t have bothered if we weren’t racing.

So-called storm sails that spend 99.9 per cent of their time stowed below decks gathering mould are all very good in theory. But believe me, they are a nightmare to deploy in practice unless you are so conservative that you are content to fly almost nothing in near-calm conditions before the gale to storm force winds and seas that you anticipate some time in the future. This hypothetical ‘wait and see’ approach can be dispiriting.

We are talking about cruising here which is, by definition, short-handed; often double-handed and sometimes single-handed. To my way of thinking, your storm sails should be rigged and ready to go, deployed early but at the right time, set easily and without fuss or risk.

The trysail dilemma

The dilemma over whether to reef or set a trysail is no dilemma at all once you convince your sailmaker to put a fourth reef in your mainsail. They don’t like it as a rule and will argue on points such as the weight penalty aloft. And for some there are aesthetic considerations.

Remember, though, that we are considering world cruising, not performance cruising, which can quickly become a misnomer in anything above about 25 knots of wind. Yes, a fourth reef is more costly, but it is well worth it.

The only way to convince yourself of this concept is to take the time in a blow offshore and deploy your storm trysail as an exercise, which is what we did to show you in the video that goes with this feature.

With four reefs in the main, it effectively becomes a trysail

Many serious cruisers worth their salt permanently stow their trysail along the boom, loaded onto a secondary track, and even have a secondary main halyard all ready to go. But there is still a lot of work to do – properly securing the mainsail and primary halyard for a start. Starting the manoeuvre by locating the trysail where you thought it was below is more testing.

Hoisting a trysail in storm conditions can be problematic. By that stage you are usually running before the wind and the sail will plaster itself against the rig, creating enormous friction. A slack halyard – it always goes slack at some point during this manoeuvre – can easily swing forward of the spreaders, and all kinds of handling errors can occur, things that are never practised enough. And when it is blowing 40-plus knots, flogging trysail sheets can get dramatic, able to crack open your head.

So why not do a manoeuvre that you do all the time instead: taking in a reef? There is no difference between this and taking in the first, second or third reef. In fact, taking in a fourth is even easier as there is not much sail left. What remains will be about trysail size, defined as something less than 0.175 x P (luff length) x E (foot length).

The first, slightly precarious step of getting a trysail up is lowering the main and wrangling it down the luff track

It is a matter of a few minutes to shorten down to storm configuration. The clew height of all the reefs should rise slightly as you shorten down, to be significant for the third and fourth reef. The seas will be big by this stage and a roll with the boom end in the water could end in tears. Admittedly, a trysail would not suffer this risk.

The fact is, unless things become very dire, such as the classic scenario of having to claw off a lee shore, few people would bother to use a trysail once the main has come down from three reefs, which happens often as the third reef usually leaves a massive amount of sail. Sailing under a partially rolled up jib alone is fine if you are content corkscrewing your way off the wind and rolling around underpowered.

The trysail is set up, sheets reeved and hoisted above the stacked main

If you have to reach, even with the wind at, say, 60-80° apparent in big seas, you will go nowhere.

With a fourth reef and a properly shaped storm jib, you should be able to carry on in well over 40 knots, roughly in the direction you want to go, in balance and in some modicum of comfort.

It must be pointed out that if you did blow the head off the mainsail or suffer any significant damage above the fourth reef, this whole argument becomes moot. Therefore, as the various regulations stipulate, carry a trysail in case and as the name suggests, ‘try’ to learn how to use it.

There seems to be a plethora of solutions for setting storm jibs. Hanked on to a bare stay or foil is the traditional and simplest solution. This means first dropping a sail and stowing it below – a gymnastic feat in itself.

In any case, few people have anything but roller-furling these days, which presents problems at the outset. I’ve seen various slipover, wrap-around-furled-sail inventions, which can be discarded forthwith (read the forums on it). There are storm sails hoisted on stays, but these are cumbersome to stow and awkward to hoist.

Given that we are talking about sailing in the open ocean where there will be big waves and swell, being on the foredeck manipulating any variation of this gear is a risky business, with stories legion of things (even people) going over the side or tangled up in gear.

Ideally, every cruising boat should have three roller-furling sails up front, a common configuration for single- and double-handers on the round the world IMOCA 60s. One would be a big yankee on the headstay, say 140 per cent for light to moderate winds, which is either rolled up or all the way out and used primarily for reaching.

The second is a working jib on a forestay close behind the headstay of around 90 per cent for mid-range to fresh conditions upwind and reaching. This sail should be cut to furl partially and, again like the yankee, cut high-clewed for good visibility below the foot, but also to avoid having continually to change the lead when rolling in and out.

This combination takes you through most conditions up to the time you fully roll up the jib. Next, simply roll out your third sail, the staysail and, hey presto, you are under storm jib. (For more on this, don’t miss a feature on sail design later in this series.)

Accepting that there is a performance margin in light to moderate air that will be lost in not having a large staysail, it makes sense to make the staysail the true storm jib. This should be a bulletproof sail, cut flat, high-clewed and roughly the same area as a moderate-sized storm jib. This sail should also be able to be rolled up to ‘Oh my God’ conditions – which is basically a clew patch. Because this sail is so small, it takes little time to roll it up and if it is on a self-tacking traveller, so much the better.

By the way, one of the biggest advantages of having readily available storm sails that can be deployed at will is when heaving to – and there’ll be much more on that in the next feature in this series.

Part 4: heaving to

Skip Novak demonstrates this simple and often overlooked technique, a safe and comfortable way for any crew to ride out heavy weather, let a system pass or allow crew to rest up

12-part series in association with Pantaenius

Storm Sails

• Be safe out there
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When Nature Gets Angry

The challenge.

Even the most experienced can be caught out in heavy weather, especially on long ocean passages but also, sometimes, when on shorter offshore trips or even coastal sailing.

• Significantly reduced visibility 
• Reefed main and headsails may still be too large or set badly when part-furled
• Drifting under bare pole will not always be possible due to restrictions in sea-room
• Sailing may be necessary to keep position or make good ground

The solution

Regaining control in severe weather is only possible with proper storm sails, made for these extreme conditions. Dedicated storm sails allow you to act proactively:

• Be prepared with the right sails
• Storm sails will stabilise the boat or even enable you to sail
• With bright coloured storm sails, your boat will be easier to spot
• Sail or heave-to with the right sail configuration 
• The right gear will give you all the confidence you need

Our Ready-made Storm Sails

Storm Trysail

A Storm Trysail is a small triangular sail with a ‘droopy’ clew that is hoisted by a halyard on the mast and is sheeted independent of the boom. It is preferable to use a separate track on the mast to avoid the potential danger of removing your mainsail in heavy weather conditions.

• Essential for heavy weather sailing
• Sizes available to suit all yachts
• Built to our top end Premium Offshore specification
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Storm Jib Sail

By using Storm Jibs in heavy weather conditions the centre of effort is reduced which means less heeling and better steering. Many cruising sailors purchase a Storm Jib sail one size larger than required so it can double as an inner staysail for use in windy areas.

Gale Sail – Alternative Storm Jib

A Gale Sail is a Storm Jib that simply hoists over the top of a furled headsail meaning that the furled sail doesn’t need to be removed.  It can be hoisted with the spinnaker halyard or a spare jib halyard.

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Storm Sails – Do I Really Need Them?

When you need storm sails.

Storm conditions at sea are defined by the Beaufort scale from mean wind speeds of 48 knots and more. These sails are also used in gale force conditions , gale being Beaufort 8 or above 30 knots.

But these are all just guidelines. In practice, what we term as storm sails would be used in any heavy weather situation where your usual working sails do not function adequately anymore . Be it that the last reef in the main still leaves it too large, or that your furling headsail cannot cope and that there is the real danger of unintentional unfurling due to the huge pressure, further increased by the usually bad shape that part-furled headsails have. Or maybe even that your suit of working sails is worn and weak and will tear under these conditions .

• Dedicated sails for storm and gale conditions
• Small, strong and reliable
• Essential for many heavy-weather tactics
• For ocean and offshore passage making

For these reasons it is more than just prudent for every true ocean passage making yacht to carry a full set of purpose made storm sails. The yacht must be able to survive severe conditions either by being sailed actively or by other applied storm tactics, in any case it will be important to be able to keep control , which is only possible with storm sails. On the other hand, storm sails can also be used in less severe conditions serving as a substitute for damaged sails , or as a form of de-powering the yacht for whichever reason.

Setting Storm Sails

A trysail is set abaft the mast, often on a dedicated track, otherwise using the mainsail track. However, for this the mainsail actually has to be detached from its rack which is a real downside . A third option would be to rig a temporary stay abaft the mast by using the very tightly set main halyard on which the luff of the trysail can then be hanked on.

The trysail is usually set without the boom , with sheets leading aft to spinnaker blocks or similar. This makes it safer, with the boom lashed firmly to the deck . It is also very useful for lying hove-to, but this would best be checked and practised with your boat in not so extreme weather.

The storm jib will usually be hanked-on to an inner (cutter) forestay . For sloop rigged yachts without a dedicated cutter or other inner forestay, we have the very useful option of our Gale Sail that will slide over the furled Genoa .

• Trysail set abaft the mast without boom
• Either on dedicated track on mast or in mainsail track
• Storm jib set on inner stay, either temporary stay or permanent cutter stay
• Gale Sail will be set over the furled Genoa

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The Different Types Of Sails And When To Use Them – Complete Guide

Sail forms an integral part of a sailboat. When you sail on the open water and observe other boats (in various sizes), you’d have noticed how each boat type has a specific model of sail. If you’re a beginner in boating, you must know that there are a ton of different sails and they each have their own purpose. 

As a general setup, sailboats will use three common sails, including headsail, mainsail, and specialty sail. Due to the varying wind conditions and the model of the sailboat, there are many types of sails including jib, genoa, trysail, storm jib, code zero, gennaker, and spinnaker. 

While that sounds like too many models of sails, you can easily differentiate between them and choose the ideal model based on your purpose. This article guides you on this aspect. Let’s begin!

Different Types of Sails & When To Use Them

1. mainsail.

Mainsail is by far the most widely spotted sail model, and it’s usually fixed to the boom and fitted behind the mast. This offers the highest mileage to your sailboat, thereby maximizing speed and performance. 

You can use a mainsail if:

• You’re concerned about the performance
• You need to go faster and utilize all wind power 
• You need to steer your boat irrespective of the wind’s status
• You’ve a large boat and can offer adequate space to this sail. 

This mainsail displays a wide surface area to make the most out of the available wind condition. As a result, you can steer your boat quite easily. However, the downside is its size. It is very large and hard to store if you need to take it down for some reason.

Check out my other article all about maintaing sails!

2. Headsail

Similar to a mainsail, it’s very easy to spot a head sail. Just look at the bow of the boat and see if there is a sail. If you see one then yes that’s a headsail. Also called a jib or genoa, a headsail is smaller in size compared to a mainsail and attaches in front of the mast to the forestay. The Foresail will not have a boom for the clew of the sail to attach to. The clew will be attached to the foresails sheet. It can be used without the mainsail in certain conditions but for the most part the two sails are used together. The foresail is always forward of the main.

The headsail comes in many different forms such as a jib, genoa, spinnaker or storm jib. The most common headsail is a jib or genoa.

You can use a headsail if:

• Your sailboat is set up for it.
• You don’t want to use the mainsail at this time.
• Your mainsail is not usable.  

The biggest advantage of a headsail is the option to protect yourself even if the wind turns unpredictable or wild. This all depends on the type of headsail you are using.

So, what are the different types of headsails? Let’s take a look! 

As more boaters chose to use a headsail for their boats, the jib was introduced as one of its forms. The Jib is a form of headsail that is attached to a shackle present on the deck’s front region. 

The Jib is a sail that does not go past the mast when it is raised and in use. If it goes past the mast then you probably have a genoa.

You can use a jib if:

• You are out for a normal day of sailing in moderate wind speeds
• You have a roller furling. Which is a sail that wraps up around itself.

Some weather conditions can make maneuvering harder or tighter than usual. As a result, it’s essential to use a jib in such cases. It functions well with boats containing a roller furling as the jib handles different positions and tackles the movement of the boat at ease. 

2.2 Genoa 

Just when you’ve got acquainted with the jib, genoa comes into the picture as a larger version of the jib. If you’re boating along a coastal region, the genoa sail is the one widely used and is attached to the front area of the deck as well.

Here’s a quick trick to find out if a boat has a genoa sail. This genoa is usually larger than a Jib. This means that the genoa effortlessly overlaps and extends itself beyond the mast, thereby covering the mainsail as well. 

You should use a genoa sail if:

• You’re planning to sail in minimum wind conditions. Less wind means you need more sail.
• You find the wind to originate from the rear area. 
• You own a large boat. Remember that genoa can partially or completely cover the mainsail too. Larger sails for larger boats!

While it’s great for sailing in regular conditions, there are downsides associated with it. A genoa can put you in a dangerous situation if you are sailing in high wind conditions and don’t have the ability to furl in the sail. Furling in the sail will reduce the area of the sail and catch less wind.

Genoas do come in many sizes as well such as 110% or 120%.

The next section of the sail list are ones that aren’t necessary but can be helpful in certain situations. Let’s look at specialty sails!

3. Specialty Sail

While headsails and mainsails are quite commonly used, there are also specialty sails in the market to address specific requirements. Some of the widely seen specialty sails are spinnakers, storm jibs, and code zeros. 

3.1 Spinnakers

Spinnaker is a sail dedicated to downwind and is quite large. Think of a beautifully covered parachute.

It’s easy to spot spinnakers as they resemble kites or parachutes. However, it crosses the bow of the boat and isn’t attached to the forestay.

Unlike the genoa sail that covers the mast, a spinnaker fails to do so. The advantage of a spinnaker is the surface area. When the wind is light, the spinnaker can catch a lot more wind giving you more speed. The Spinnaker is usually fixed to three points – pole, halyard, and sheet.

You should use a spinnaker if:

• You have minimal wind on a run. 
• You are trying to harness as much wind power as you can.

While it has a wide surface area, the downside is its inability to steer the boat during strong wind conditions. It can even put the passengers at risk when the wind is at high speeds. 

Make sure you have experience before trying out the spinnaker.

3.2 Storm Jibs

Storm jib is another type of specialty sail meant exclusively for rough weather. It’s a tiny, triangular structure that helps during offshore racing or cruising. Just think of it as a smaller jib.

You should use a storm jib if:

• You’re going to sail in heavy weather conditions. 
• You anticipate high wind speeds.
• You’re going to be in an offshore race and they are an approved sail type.

Note: In the case of an offshore racing requirement, it’s critical to take prior permission from the regulatory authority for using a storm jib. 

3.3 Code Zeros

Code zero is another updated version of a spinnaker that’s meant to be a combination of genoa and gennaker sails. It resembles the look of a genoa but is a lot bigger. 

You should use a code zero if:

• You’re looking for an overlapping flying headsail. 
• You’re sailing only in light air conditions.
• You’re looking for an alternative to a Genoa. 

Having said that, a code zero or a screecher does the job of a genoa with better efficiencies. 

3.4 Trysail  

Trysail is another type of specialty sail that’s tiny, triangular, and can be fixed right above a gooseneck on the sailboat. 

The Trysail is less known in the market as most boaters go ahead with common mainsails and headsails. It’s essential to acknowledge trysail as a front-and-aft mainsail model. It offers excellent performance and contains a permanent pennant in it. 

You should use a trysail if:

• You’re sailing in heavy weather conditions. 
• You’re looking for a storm replacement. 
• You are experienced with using them.

The quadrilateral sail in a trysail is usually turned and bent to a mast, and this helps in heading the vessel during windy conditions. 

3.5 Gennakers

If you’ve been able to spot genoa and spinnaker in the past, identifying a gennaker is incredibly easy. A gennaker is a hybrid sail form that is small, slow, and requires no pole attached to the mast. 

You should use a gennaker if:

• You’re looking for a smaller version of a spinnaker. 
• You’ve no space to fix a pole to the mast. 
• You require the sail to be easily manageable. 
• You’re sailing in a region requiring minimum downwind levels. 

Choosing a hybrid sail has a lot of benefits as it combines the usefulness of 2 sail models. However, being aware of their cons is critical to planning a safe sail.

As you begin using these sails, you can also look for better customizations. There are drifters, wind seekers, and other jib types that are meant to handle different wind conditions. 

How Many Sails On A Sailboat ?

In general, a sailboat contains two sails. Two sails is the typical setup for the best performance of the boat during different wind conditions. It’s essential to pick your two sails based on your sailing plan.

Why Are There Two Sails On A Sailboat?

A sailboat uses two sails because the wind left over by the first sail is easily caught by the second sail. This helps in steering the sailboat to a better extent and gives the sailboat more power.

Final Thoughts

Sails are one of the major assets of a sailboat. From managing wind to maximizing the performance and longevity of a sailboat, the type of sails you use, plays a huge role. From the various sail types listed in this article, you can choose the best model that fits your sailing routine. Just make sure to remember to check and make sure they are the correct size for your vessel.

Make sure to plan ahead and have the right sails for your sailing weekend. Cheers!

Boatlifehq owner and author/editor of this article.

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I am trying to find the measurements for a storm jib on the 1982-22' Hunter sloop. Can you help me?  

Attachments

The Gale Sail | Easy Handling Storm Jib | ATN Sailing Equipment

Ted said: ATN makes the "Gale Sail" and suggests that boats under 27 feet long can use their 30 square foot sail. For a 22 foot boat you might want to use a slightly smaller sail. The Gale Sail | Easy Handling Storm Jib | ATN Sailing Equipment Patented sail is the safest and easiest way to hoist a storm jib in storm conditions. Hoist storm jib over roller furled sail in safety. www.atninc.com Click to expand

Kings Gambit

12’ Luff, 9’ leech, 6’ foot, according to The Sail Warehouse in Monterey, CA. 6 oz Dacron; 28 sq. feet. $235. In stock. Hanks or #6 tape. This is not a Gale Sail.  

I get caught in a gale offshore in a 22' I need to be shot, but then there are those times when mother sea sneaks up on you and rages. Other than the MFG ATN with their so named sail, what ounce Dacron with hanks would you use Kings Gambit? I am guessing 25ish sq feet.  

Cptstarz said: I get caught in a gale offshore in a 22' I need to be shot, but then there are those times when mother sea sneaks up on you and rages. Other than the MFG ATN with their so named sail, what ounce Dacron with hanks would you use Kings Gambit? I am guessing 25ish sq feet. Click to expand

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

Cptstarz said: caught in a gale offshore in a 22' Click to expand

Cptstarz said: I am trying to find the measurements for a storm jib on the 1982-22' Hunter sloop. Can you help me? Click to expand

Sailing under storm conditions is entirely different from sailing in conditions that are so to say Normal. It is more like trying to swim in a rip tide. You want to swim to the beach but the rip tide is pushing you out to sea. So you swim at 90 degrees to the rip. Yes it will carry you out to sea but you also will be making an exit from the current. You conserve energy and once free from the current you head to shore. It is the same philosophy I employee in storm conditions. The forces on a handkerchief of jib sail, will not give me much up wind progress. At best I might get 90 degrees to true wind. If that puts me a beam to the waves that is not a very safe set up. Having the sail ahead of the mast means the sail is trying to push the bow down (to the lee). Again a bad force. So we move the "Storm sail" to astern of the mast to get the energy (force) more centered. Even there the forces are against ant forward into the wind progress. Perhaps they are better for a 90 degree to the wind effort. The goal is you have not put yourself in a position to be blown down wind against a lee shore. Having fuel, a working auxiliary, the sense to employ the proper tools to address the situation and considering all of your options to avoid getting "between a rock and a hard place" are critical to survival. I have the auxiliary engine. I have warps to run down wind bare poles. I understand my boats condition. I can modify a small jib to rig a small sail between the mast and the back stay. I am willing to deploy rode and chain on the bow or the stern as needed to address the conditions. I am ready to call for help. I am ready to stay in harbor when conditions suggest I would be healthier. I watch my weather. I pray I have my senses about me to avoid trouble and to deal with the conditions presented.  

@jssailem I guess I took the word jib in “storm jib” to describe a small headsail. I was wondering how that would do anything in storm conditions but to force the bow off the wind. I get now that the “jib” is a sail mounted in the “middle” of the boat providing some power and steerage capability. Not sure what you mean by warp ??  

A warp is a heavy line or several lines you tie on to a secure cleat and drag behind the boat or off the bow. In a heavy wind the rigging and the boat it self gets blown down the waves. You want the boat to be facing bow or stern first into the wave. A wave taken broadside will roll you. Taken on the bow or stern you ridup and over. Obviously on the bow is better for a square stern boat. One of the reasons canoe shaped sailboats like the Perry designed Valiant 40 has a “Bluewater” reputation is that it rides over a wave nearly the same bow or stern on. Warps are used to stream behind a boat to slow its motion and align it with the waves. Better would be a storm drogue. As bad as being rolled over sideways in a big wave, careening down a big wave and burying the bow or stern in the trough will position you to pitch pole. Flip stern over bow or bow over stern. Definitely not a good experience. So you avoid this by putting out a drag. Most of us will never experience these conditions. Living through them will need a crew that has at the least given them some thought and have a working plan.  

jssailem said: Most of us will never experience these conditions. Living through them will need a crew that has at the least given them some thought and have a working plan. Click to expand

Cptstarz said: I am trying to find the measurements for a storm jib on the 1982-22' H sloop. Can you help me? Click to expand

I agree with that. I’ve read that trying to recover a drogue can feel impossible. I have studied the issues of Heavy weather sailing. I’ve never been (I have avoided) sailing in conditions that caused me to feel uncomfortable.  

Secondwind2008

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Home > Store > Storm Jib

$ 494.99 – $ 1,099.99

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A small rugged jib that reduces the headsail area to the bare minimum required to maintain a ship’s maneuverability. Our Storm Jib is designed to reliably allow sailors to navigate adverse conditions and heavy winds. The addition of a Storm Jib to your inventory allows you to not risk damaging a headsail during adverse conditions. The strength and solidity of this sturdy sail, developed from special heavily constructed Polyester, makes it suitable for both racing and off-shore cruising. It is highly recommended that storm sails be of a highly visible colored material.

Storm Sail Features:

• 3 step zig-zag seaming
• Heavy-duty bonded UV thread on patches and tabling
• Reinforced triangular seam wedges at leech for extra leech strength
• Half-moon protective patch sewn at hank or slide position on the luff
• Luff and leech bands underneath tapes
• Double tapes with double stitching
• Straight stitching on corner webbing for greater strength
• Heavy-duty Rutgerson Super rings of Spectra webbing corners
• Three handsewn rows in webbing above each corner ring for added corner integrity
• All slides and cleats are hand-sewn

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