BUILD, SETUP, TUNE, RACE, WIN IN RC SAILBOATS
Go Faster in the right direction.
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Note This was my first attempt at building a rig. Current rigs are much simpler)
For some time now, I have considered which rig to buy. Here are my current thoughts and decisions on a rig for the new boat.
There are 3 tubes and one slotted design to choose from as far as I am aware. Sailsetc groovy and tube, Housemartin tube and Pierre Gonnet tube. I currently have Housemartin spars and sails and am very pleased with their performance. I bought an A, B and C rig kit last year and they were all competitive however I read that the PG masts are lighter with similar flexibility and having sailed yachts, know that weight aloft can make all the difference in a chop, so I am going to try some and compare weights and stiffness and see how they perform. After a chat with Potter Solutions, we decided that 15mm or less is the optimum pre-bend for the A rig. Any more and you can easily distort the spar by compressing the mast as you take out the prebend with the back stay, as well as introduce uncontrolled bend between the spreaders and hounds and introducing too much tension in light weather. I must admit I have always suffered from a little bit of luff starvation just below the hound and wondered if this was caused by the pre-bend.
I choose lightweight jib booms (Easton arrow shaft - 2515. 25/64ths inch diameter, 15 thousandths of an inch wall thickness) from Sailsetc having used one before and will use off cuts of the mast for main boom and reuse my current goosenecks and fittings. Again the thought here is to go for the lightest section on the bow requiring the lightest counterweight although we are only talking about 7gms.
I use a roller bearing gooseneck for the A rig and standard gooseneck for B and C. I use aero-foiled spreaders but they are hung on wire so easily adjustable. Shrouds run through a hole in the front of the mast with a bowsie stopper inside. I use a sailsetc cunningham ring on all spars as my Housemartin sails have both luff tension and cunningham eye.
As I mentioned above, I use Housemartin sails and have just bought a new A set for this year. Competition wise I see that BG and Sailboat RC (current world champions) with their moulded sail seem to be the sails of choice for championships but that could just be the sailors who use them. Thankfully I see members at Emsworth who have both sails so will be able to make a good comparison between all three. Of course there are several other sailmakers but these are the three World championship winning brands that have caught my eye from the available data at the moment, however I am new to the game and have probably missed lots.
What's the best package overall
Current observation suggests a SailboatRC package as they have won the last two worlds and dominated other events but Britpop with the BG rig have dominated in numbers and successes since 2011. Who will dominate at the Worlds in Croatia next year?
SailboatRC are pioneered moulded sails and now have a tried and tested design and who knows what else they have on the cards. I look forward to see how other sail designers and builders respond.
How many of you have the problem of the jib boom flicking out one side or the other in calm conditions, making it impossible to sail. I have encountered this problem since I launched my first boat boat. It was only in a discussion with Dave Potter last week that I found the solution. It's all in the geometry. See the picture below.
The diagram on the right has two diagrams. The left shows the configuration I used last year. My leech line had caught around the spreaders a few times I thought it best to use a line and tie it forward at the head of the jib not realising that this impacts the geometry and caused the boom to kick out one way or the other when there is little or no wind.
If you want to see this in action, set the headsail up loosen your current leech line and tie a loose leach line onto the end of the jib boom. Make sure the line is long enough to reach the entry point on the mast. Put the luff and leach line under some tension. First move the top of the leech line to the right of the mast (i.e. aft) by an inch or so as set up in the picture and you should see the jib boom pull into the centreline of the boat. Now move the leech line in the opposite direction, forward of the mast and you should see the jib boom move as far away from the centreline as it can.
Talking to Dave Potter, he told me that he and Deve Creed solved the problem by tying the jib luff and leech line to a self tapping screw thus ensuring the leech line and jib luff tension line intersect the mast at exactly the same point allowing the jib boom to rotate freely in any direction
I pondered this for a while and came up with another solution using wire and a bowsie. The wire leech line and jib luff eye are attached to a bowsie inside the mast. They exit the mast and the jib luff can be hooked onto an eye fashioned out of the wire. Both enter the mast at the same point setting up the correct geometry.
Fingers crossed this will mean the jib boom will swing easily from one side to the other in calm conditions. I will let you know at the end of the week if it works
More thoughts on rigs
Key to the setup is to get the mast bend to match the main luff curve. If you read articles by Brad Gibson on tuning and see the latest interviews with New York Central Park MYC then you will hear how precise his setup is.
1 There is no heavy use of the Cunningham
2 His sails are very smooth
3 The main foot is set at the same depth for all conditions
4 The backstay will be adjusted by 2 to 4 mm only through the range of conditions.
5 He follows his own measurements for starting setup.
The key message here is to have a fixed setup. BG has been at this game for a long time and knows a precise setup to go fast. We can short cut the experience learning by following the setup notes on his web site or from the designer of whatever boat you sail. The Kantun has a similar set of setup numbers and instructions from the designer that are delivered with their boats. Other designers have done similar.
Remember if when your boat is on its side, you have trouble with hard spots on the luff of the main that have to be removed by excessive Cunningham, then you will need to tweak the variables available to you to get rid of the hard spots. They are:
The mast is upright
Spreader angle (and check they are symmetric, i.e. your mast hasn't rotated)
Shroud tension
Soften or harden the prebend
If you are still having a problem, check the mast is straight up to the point of prebend, your prebend is progressive rather than a sudden bend.
Of course, if your sails are old, they may have stretched and it will be hard to achieve a perfect result.
I will show you my setup below. I will have a PG rig from Potter Solutions with Housemartin sails. The settings are from you know where.
You might get the impression at this point that I am a BG fan. It is because he has pulled together all the relevant setup information on his website and it is the best I have seen in my travels across the internet but similar to Kantun. He also has the closest design to a BritPOP available (Alternative) for home build which I have.
For those interested in mast weight differences, there is a 20 gm difference between the Housemartin and the PG spar. I have heard that Sailsetc sparscome somewhere in between. The weights were 99 and 79gms. I haven't done a measurement on stiffness but I am sure someone out there has. They both feel pretty good. The prebend is 15 mm over 600mm on the A rig and 40mm on the B rig with one on the C rig.
The A and B rig arrived with with a clear mark on each showing the exact point where the prebend started. After marking up using the dimensions from the boat plan, I laid the mast on a long table. Use a couple of pink block from sailsetc (see picture) or something similar to make sure the holes are in the correct position. To start, I fitted one of the pink blocks and aligned the mast so the prebend was exactly vertical off the table. I could then drill the forestay hole and align every thing to that knowing that each hole would be aligned fore and aft or perpendicular in the case of the spreaders.
The gooseneck is glued on with superglue before drilling and fixing with a coupe of squares of deck patch material under the bottom of the gooseneck.
The boom just needs drilling in the same manner as above.
Using the pink drill blocks to align the pre bend with holes for the jib, shrouds, spreaders and gooseneck.
All that is left is to cut the mast at the right length, fit to the boat, add the backstay and jib and then finish off the ends of the shrouds.
To cut the mast to the right length, I used a dummy tube inserted into the mast hole and marked off the lower and upper deck levels and the position where I wanted the gooseneck and the lower limit band. This must be no less than 60mm above the lower deck level but on the Alternative it is approx 74mm. Then I just measure down from the lower limit on the actual mast to the bottom with the dummy mast and cut.
Super glued the mast head and heel fitting (once the mast had been cut to the right length) so they would not move. Then I put the mast in the boat, attached the jib and the backstay and set the mast up straight to the rake on the plan. After, I attached the fittings on the ends of the shrouds and fixed the rigging screws to the boat. The rig was tensioned lightly so the main can be fitted and the rig tuned.
One last job is to find a way to stop the mast accidentally rotating. The advice is to use the gooseneck. Unfortunately the goosenecks I use don't quite lock the mast in place so I will have to find another solution. I cut an inch of mast section and then cut this in half and tape it onto the bottom of the mast with two thick cable ties to stop the taped on section compressing. This way I lock the mast centrally and also push it forward slightly in the mast step which gives the boat better balance.
There are a few pictures of the completed B rig below
Footnotes
I no longer use the cable tie as a jib pivot as they kept breaking so I have switched it for a Sailsetc boom clamp and attached the line to the boom with a sheet hook. I am now in a position where I can raise and lower the jib boom with precision and replace the line quickly.
I use a hook now to attach the jib to the mast which means I can remove the jib and swap between racing and practice jibs
I use a Housemartin hook to attach the shrouds to the mast. It is easy to repair if a shroud breaks.
In the last picture, the weight is now inside the C rig which makes it legal
I now use BG sails so the cunningham ring is removed as the BG tack acts as a cunningham.
See working up a Britpop for what I use now.
Picture showing roller bearing gooseneck with jackstay line and tape to secure mast at deck and step level
Airofoil spreaders. I have reverted back to brass tube (bought off Amazon) and make my own using .45mm wire to make the ends.
Masthead detail
Sideview of roller bearing kicker and cunningham ring above band which I have since discarded
A rather ugly solution to the jib attachment to the mast. The principle was the lung and leech line emerge from the same point on the mastI now use a simple wire hook into the mast with both luff and topping lift attached to it. Simple an effective.
Sails are tied on with fine thread. Mine comes from a Ford factory from the 70's where it was used to make seats. It does not shrink and I only have 4900 yards left on the spool.
Some of my ideas are a bit whacky. I tried attaching the tack line to a cable ties. It lasted an hour before the line cut through the plastic. Now I just tie the cord to the boom
First version of a tidy leach line with the elastic inside the boom. The line ran through a hole in the boom but kept fraying. Now I use a Sailsetc boom end fitting which does the job nicely
Balast and balancing weights for the boat and B and C rigs
Pink alignment blocks for drilling holes on the mast and boom
Next Section
Add the sails
Forgot your password?
By Eric Finley October 22, 2023 in IOM
Eric finley.
Hi, has anyone got experience of replacing the Jib Swivel line on a Vinaixa built Britpop? If so an explanation would be appreciated.
For instance is there a removable sheet guide/bush fitted into the top of the tube. Which direction does the bottom bar run. (across the boat or along it?)
Any preference on line used?
As the yacht does not have an access hole under the hull (like Sailsetc hulls) it almost seems like an impossible exercise.
Thanks in advance for any assistance
Share on other sites.
Eric, have you contacted Pepe Vinaixa (the builder) for advice? If this fails, let me know as I have a potential back-up solution.
Hi Eric. I did one not long ago. If you pm me with a phone no I will gladly give you a bell and explain how I did it.
I have just had the same problem. When I looked with a video camera I saw a line crudely tied at an exit hole cut into the tube. I had some very fine springy necklace wire (from Hobby Craft) and threaded that down and out through the hole near the bottom The pulled a line throught and terminated the lower end to a toggle that stopped at the hole. I will look to see what other folks say... with interest!!
On the subject of Older Britpops does anyone have a source for the Plastic press on tops for the POT?
I have an early Spanish britpop and recall that it was delivered minus the pot. I fitted a sailsetc pot which has a screw lid. Therefore, I imagine whoever owned your boat from new, decided the type of pot used.
Thanks, that is proably the case. The original owner is lost in time Iam the fourth owner I think.
Has anyone actually managed to replace the jib swivel cord in the original format?
If so an explanation would be appreciated. Do I presume when Vinaixa Britpop's were delivered new this line was already installed?
The replies I have had plus communication with Brad all replace the system either with a fixed deck hook or a stainless steel bar similar to those for smaller rigs.
I like the principal of the long cord to virtually the bottom of the hull as per Sailsetc & Barry Chisam designs. (Promoted by owning a Psycho)
I have thought of drilling the hull to replicate this system of fitting a replacement line at the bottom of the boat but retaining the above deck bowsie to tension the system. The issue with doing this is knowing accurately where to drill! I am however reluctant to drill a perfectly water tight hull.
Yes Eric, the jib connection was installed by the builder.
This is how |I fixed it . By feeding a thin wire and pullimh through a line with a loop inside the tube , this had the Jib line run through the loop.
Thanks for the responses.
I have managed to pull through a line using the remnants of the original swivel line. I then pulled two lines through using that line. I therefore now have a new jib swivel fitted plus another line to use when required as a pull line for the next replacement.
I had previously asked Pepe about this and got the following information:-
Pepe proposed a couple of solutions one being to drill the hull so I end up with a system similar to Sailsetc yachts (Paradox) or to try to use a fine line with a small weight on the end dropping it into the tube and then by inverting the boat hope it goes under/over the bar and then the line can be fed into the tube and the weight and line recovered. Then use this light line to pull through heavier line.
I was hoping that someone had come up with a simply solution! It appears from the replies I have received including a communication with Brad that the general consensus is to do away with Pepe's swivel solution. (I have to admit if a quick way of replacing the line was possible I do like the longer swivel line that the Spanish design allows)
At this time I intend to stick with the original design.
I am still interested to hear if anyone has successfully replaced a swivel line without an existing line to use to pull a new one in.
I use a kite line "sleeving needle". In its normal usage it is used to cover the ends of spectra kite line with polyester sleeving. Where knots are tied in kite line, unless the sleeving is in place, the lines cut through themselves.
It's made from thin wire, bent and squashed in the middle. This forms a tight loop, and when you feed a thin line into that squashed bit you can easily pull the line back through.
I use to feed the sheets through the boom eyes - feed the "needle" through first, feed the line into the squashed bit, pull back though.
I also used to to replace the jib swivel line on my Fraktal.
IOM &DF65 sailor
North Essex
2 hours ago, Guzzilazz said: I use a kite line "sleeving needle". In its normal usage it is used to cover the ends of spectra kite line with polyester sleeving. Where knots are tied in kite line, unless the sleeving is in place, the lines cut through themselves. It's made from thin wire, bent and squashed in the middle. This forms a tight loop, and when you feed a thin line into that squashed bit you can easily pull the line back through. I use to feed the sheets through the boom eyes - feed the "needle" through first, feed the line into the squashed bit, pull back though. I also used to to replace the jib swivel line on my Fraktal.
Sounds very similar to what is used in fishing for threading elastic through fishing poles. Maybe reduce the length of it.
On 07/11/2023 at 17:26, HotTub said: Sounds very similar to what is used in fishing for threading elastic through fishing poles. Maybe reduce the length of it.
I used mine yesterday to feed sheet lines though on the sedici, which has tubes running from gaiters on the forward bulkhead and then turns at right angles for the winch! Worked a treat
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Simply Designed Better
SAILSetc has a long association with the International One Metre class supplying specially designed products since the class’s inception in 1988. From the first World Championship in 1994 SAILSetc designed boats and equipment have given outstanding performance for a large number of sailors against the toughest competition at World, European and national level.
The first SAILSetc IOM designed with the help of a VPP, IKON, justified its use on that project and every design put into production at SAILSetc since then. IKON was followed by ITALIKO, TOPIKO, PIKANTO and FRAKTAL all of which, in turn, proved to be excellent designs giving success to many sailors and top quality performance years after their launch.
SAILSetc has ceased building boats and moulding other component parts. We have developed new sources of fins and rudders which, with our ballasts and in house moulded parts, can be expected to help other designs obtain their best performance.
SAILSetc spars, fittings and sails provide an optimised and compatible range of products with which to equip any IOM, whether from SAILSetc or from another source.
The complete range of products in any category and for any class can be found in the Products by Category section.
Voilier Classe IOM, Voilier Classe One Metre.
Since the IOM design was introduced in the late 1980s dozens of designs have been tried and tested throughout large and highly competitive fleets in Europe and Australasia. It's only recently that one or two designs have begun to dominate, although single design variety has really dominated.
The answer lies in the quasi tolerant nature of the box rule and the relentless pace of development within tight class rule parameters.
Many boats designed between 2000 and 2010 are still very competitive at club level today. Some, like the Italko favour A rig conditions whereas a Lintel seems at its best with B or C rig.
Widgets, Topiko and Obsession are also handy boats as is the more recent Fraktal and Alternative which are all capable of a good turn of speed, have excellent pedigree and capable of challenging Britpops, Kantuns and V9s on a good day.
The IOM GBR is working over the next two years to catalogue European and Australasian designs such as MMX, Sedici, TNT, Atlas, Corbie to create a useful archive.
Two significant additional developments are running in parallel with the challenging catalogue task.
Devoting a webpage for building self made wooden or composite boats from plans, including comprehensive data on IOM designs and their key capabilities.
Developing a buyers guide advice for skippers who wish to enter the IOM world to experience the joy of sailing one of these rewarding boats.
Here is just a snap shot of boat designs.
R/c and model yacht design, plans, boats, sails..
The Ellipsis… IOM represents a different approach to what is now “conventional chine” boats,
The truth is chines do not do what designers say they do. They do not “grip” the water or generate lift, or stop the boat going sideways in any way.
The main application of a chine on modern IOM’s is to easily allow a boat to have tumble home aft by separating the topside shape from the bottom shape. This aft tumblehome In combination with much fuller bow sections, reduces the “in out wedges” of a hull which stops the hull from trimming bow down when heeled. This hull “balance” , allows the hull when heeled to sail in a straight line rather than curve to windward and allows the foils to stay at an optimum angle of a attack without further skewing the hull. This makes the boat easier to sail and reduces drag.
Other effects of the chine are the ability of a designer to make the stern sections flatter than they otherwise would be and gives the hull a volume bump just above the waterline increasing initial form stability and at the bow increasing acceleration. The chine may also allow a cleaner separation of the water flow aft at speed, but this is debatable.
The Ellipsis… approach is to remove the chine completely but to retain the volume distribution and excellent hull balance of a chine boat. This produces a much simpler and easier to produce hull in both glass and wood. The Ellipsis… is very well balanced upwind and can be trimmed to give a negative feel right though the useful range of heel angles. When running the Ellipsis’s full bow gives the boat excellent nosediving prevention ability and exceptional acceleration in gusts.
The Ellipsis… being narrower on the waterline and has less immersed hull surface than many chine boats. The deck is slightly wider allowing a wider stay base and better rig control. The flat deck with a raised “bubble” section allows the jib foot to be very low in the boat.
The Ellipsis… is also unlike many chine boats, and very pretty boat .
Assembled Boats:
Assembled Ellipsis IOMs, ready to rig and fit radio are now available from ARS Composite Freelancer in Thailand.
These cost $900US plus delivery and can be ordered by contacting:
FRD IOM SAILS
Updated:27/11/22
Volunteers from Trinidad and Tobago have been working tirelessly cleaning debris in Carriacou. Photo: IOM/Gema Cortes
Carriacou, Grenada – Volunteers from near and far have converged on Carriacou, a small paradise island in Grenada, to provide assistance and a glimmer of hope to the residents devastated by Hurricane Beryl, which hit on 1 July 2024. This Category 4 hurricane, the most powerful ever recorded in the Atlantic in June, has left the island in ruins, damaging more than 95 per cent of buildings and leaving behind flattened homes, destroyed infrastructure, and a community in desperate need of help.
Among the volunteers is Ryan Jackson, a 50-year-old from London with Grenadian heritage. He came to the island with his wife to support his Grenadian parents, who survived the hurricane. “I simply want to help my parents and others. I feel I have a duty to help those who have lost everything,” Jackson remarked, as he worked tirelessly to assist elderly residents clean up the debris from their houses.
Rose Sylvester and her daughter Andrea stand resilient in front of her destroyed house. Photo: IOM/Gema Cortes
Volunteers remove Rose Sylvester’s bed from her destroyed home after hurricane Beryl. Photo: IOM/Gema Cortes
A volunteer hammers a board while helping to clean up Rose’s house. Photo: IOM/Gema Cortes
An aerial view of volunteers diligently cleaning up the remnants of Rose’s home. Photo: IOM/Gema Cortes
A long-standing tradition
The scene in Carriacou is one of complete desolation. Collapsed houses, wrecked police stations, schools, hospitals, and debris-strewn streets all portray a grim picture. The island remains in a state of emergency, with efforts to restore power to remote areas expected to take weeks. The hurricane’s impact was so severe that entire villages were wiped out, leaving many communities still living in shelters or with relatives. Out of the total 857 residential buildings detected in Copernicus satellite imagery , all were somehow damaged. Almost one third (32 per cent) are fully destroyed, one quarter are damaged and the remaining 43 per cent are possibly damaged.
Volunteering has long been a tradition in the Caribbean, a region frequently battered by natural disasters. Volunteers from Trinidad and Tobago, headed by Keon Bowen, have been working tirelessly for the past three weeks.
“People are so devastated that they haven’t come back to the island. We are working in small squads throughout the areas,” Bowen explained under a scorching sun while clearing debris from the wrecked home of Rose Sylvester, a 66-year-old resident who is currently living in a shelter with her two daughters and granddaughter. “I only want to go back to my own house. This is terribly sad, I have nowhere else to go,” she remarked, her voice breaking with emotion as she sees her destroyed television and kitchen, along with the debris cleared. She hopes she will soon get support to rebuild her house.
Ryan Jackson travelled from London to Carriacou to support his Grenadian parents in a time of need. Photo: IOM/Gema Cortes
Volunteers line up to board a boat to Carriacou, ready to assist with the debris cleanup efforts. Photo: IOM/Gema Cortes
IOM staff engage with volunteers and affected residents in front of homes devastated by the disaster. Photo: IOM/Gema Cortes
Pieces of debris and destroyed houses line the side of the road as a reminder of the disaster’s impact. Photo: IOM/Gema Cortes
Community resilience amid challenges
Despite the immense challenges that Carriacou faces, the International Organization for Migration (IOM) has been active in distributing humanitarian assistance in coordination with the Government of Grenada, including tarpaulins, solar lamps, and tents to people whose homes and livelihoods have vanished overnight. The scale of the disaster has overwhelmed local resources. “After first providing thousands of non-food items, we continue bringing critical assistance to people recovering from the devastation. We will continue the distribution of solar lamps and tarpaulins, repair key infrastructures, and teach and assist the local population how to build better roofing to withstand future disasters,” said Martina Cilkova, IOM Shelter and Settlement Officer.
Every day, volunteers assist hundreds of people, reflecting the resilience and determination of the Grenadian people. Anthony St. Hilaire, a 66-year-old resident, embodies the spirit of endurance that characterizes the community. Living in the remnants of the toilet of his lifelong home covered by a plastic sheet, he plays his ukulele, the only item he could recover, and states, “We have life; the rest is material.” His words resonate with many who have lost so much but remain committed to rebuilding their lives and communities. “Grenadians endure together and move together.”
Youth volunteers and families are assisting in various ways, from removing debris to providing and packing food. “I didn’t want to sit and do nothing,” said Angele while distributing cooked food. The experience has also fostered a sense of closeness. “I’m proud to be a volunteer as I can see the impact of our work in people’s smiles.”
The remnants of Anthony St. Hilaire’s lifelong home, where he has been sleeping under a plastic sheet since Hurricane Beryl struck. Photo: IOM/Gema Cortes
Anthony St. Hilaire, 66, plays his ukulele, the only item he could salvage from his lifelong home after it was wiped out. Photo: IOM/Gema Cortes
An aerial view of the remnants of Anthony’s lifelong home. Photo: IOM/Gema Cortes
An aerial view of destroyed houses with the Caribbean Sea in the background, highlighting the extent of the devastation. Photo: IOM/Gema Cortes
A long road to recovery
The recovery process is expected to be lengthy with many challenges. The Government, Caribbean Disaster Emergency Management Agency (CDEMA), UN agencies, local and international organizations are collaborating to provide essential services, and support rebuilding efforts. However, they face significant challenges in logistics, resource allocation, and rebuilding to withstand future hurricanes, especially with the peak of hurricane season approaching.
The devastation in Grenada is unprecedented. One month later, while debris has been cleared from the streets, many houses remain roofless or reduced to rubble. Daily life has regained some normalcy, but there is still no electricity. Entire villages were wiped out by storm surge caused by the hurricane, and many communities still live in shelters or with family members.
Yet, amid the chaos, the spirit of volunteerism and community resilience is a ray of hope. Volunteers continue to work diligently, driven by a shared sense of solidarity. As the tourist paradise island slowly rebuilds, the efforts of these volunteers will be remembered as an example of the Caribbean people’s enduring resilience and unity.
A sofa sits in a roofless house, ruined by Hurricane Beryl. Photo: IOM/Gema Cortes
IOM staff evaluate the extent of damage to households devastated by the disaster. Photo: IOM/Gema Cortes
Rose Sylvester, 66, finds temporary refuge in a shelter with her two daughters and granddaughter after being displaced. Photo: IOM/Gema Cortes
An aerial view of collapsed boats. Photo: IOM/Gema Cortes
This story was written by Gema Cortes, IOM Media and Communications Unit, Office of the Special Envoy for the Regional Response to the Venezuela Situation.
IMAGES
COMMENTS
The Robot Yachts Britpop has been developed in collaboration with Designer Brad Gibson to replicate as closely as possible his originals that finished 1st, 2nd and 3rd in the 2011 World Championship. Since the 2011 West Kirby World Championship, Brad has tested and sailed 2 early production Robot Yachts built BritPOPs and the design, in the ...
DESIGNS. Since our first IOM design in 1998, our designs have regularly given a good account of themselves across all levels of competition. Our current designs in production since 2011 have won a staggering 12 World Championships and over 100 National Championships across the globe. Presently we hold two of the four IRSA - International Radio ...
A simple rig setup. Articles on setting up the rig on an IOM may talk about how the mast control is split into 3 sections. The bottom third is controlled by the mast ram, the middle third is controlled by the spreaders and the rig tension and the top third is controlled by backstay tension. That is the easy bit.
Editor's Note: Ever since the 2011 IOM World Championship in the UK, and even the US National Championship in Texas in 2010, Brad Gibson's "BritPop!" has been the "the must have boat" for many skippers. Combining some old elements (chine transition, first seen at least as far back as the 1989 "Jazz"), and some new thinking on more slender hull forms, the BritPop! has racked up an enviable ...
Robot Yachts is currently offering a choice of ISAF International One Metre (IOM) and RG65 designs. IOM BRITPOP This outstanding IOM design, built under licence from designer Brad Gibson, is our stella product in demand from customers worldwide. The BritPOP hull and foil package together with optimised rig represents a step change in One Metre ...
8/14We invited Brad Gibson to talk with us about IOM model sailboats. We will be posting the talk in segments. Brad is an 8 time IRSA World Champion, sailma...
Class: IOM. International One Meter - the most global class of all. Class Type: Box Rule. Designs Listed: 325. Class Website: IOM International Class Association. 1M ULY. 1MULY / IOM. Antonio Vadalá (BRA) 2 Dogs.
Licenced Builders. IOM - BritPOP! Our BritPOP! IOM design is being now solely produced under license to us by Robot Yachts, UK. They have been chosen by us based on experience, build quality, passion and their commitment to the BritPOP! project. Robot Yachts have been with us from 2011 and continue to produce our designs to the highest standards.
BritPop! Britpop! Nautae racing Model Yachts (Denis Astbury) IOM Certificate 2016 Hull Registration Number USA 981 The BritPOP! is colour finished to deck level ready for electronics and rigs with David Creed foils added and bulb fitted. To complete the boat you will need to add the complete rigs with rigging screws, electronics and sheet lines.
time to concentrate on sailing the race course. Mast RakeA general starting point for a more modern design should have the mast set at 0 - 0.5 of degr. e aft rake combined with the below numbers with your A rig. Each. wer rig should rake aft 0.5 degrees from the one above it. Dependent on foil section/placement and other inherent design factors ...
Make sure the line is long enough to reach the entry point on the mast. Put the luff and leach line under some tension. First move the top of the leech line to the right of the mast (i.e. aft) by an inch or so as set up in the picture and you should see the jib boom pull into the centreline of the boat.
IOM Britpop. IOM Britpop 412 (Personal sail number 72) valid certificate. 4 rigs. Two of which are A rigs. one of which has a sectioned mast for travel. Second A rig is one season old, Jelasic sails, Sailect hardware, Breaking wind Ultimate cradle. keel rudder and bulb all faired and repainted recently.
Selling my 2023 BritPOP! IOM, built by Denis Asbury in Brazil, Includes Brad Gibson A and B sails, Sail Bag, RMG winch and Savox rudder servo. I have had it in the water maybe 4 times max. I have too many boats and this should go to a competitor and get used more. It is shippable in 3 packages. You buy the shipping labels and I will take it ...
Discussion board for IOM owners and IOM NCAs, hosted by the IOM International Class Association. Skip to content. Quick links. FAQ; ... To sell BRITPOP by Vinaixa, with 3 Rigs, RMG and Digital 7,2 Ruder servo,and Multiplex 2020 2,4 GZ 3000 Euros plus transport cost ... Joined: 09 Mar 2011, 20:02 Sail number: GBR50 Club: 3 rivers ryc Design ...
This forms a tight loop, and when you feed a thin line into that squashed bit you can easily pull the line back through. I use to feed the sheets through the boom eyes - feed the "needle" through first, feed the line into the squashed bit, pull back though. I also used to to replace the jib swivel line on my Fraktal.
Keeping on top of your setup. Where to stand when racin g. Designing the BritPOP! Creases in film sail s. The value in an older design. Pimping an older design. If your club, group or association would like to ask BG questions through a hosted web seminar, drop us an email to discuss how we can share race winning top tips with you.
Discussion board for IOM owners and IOM NCAs, hosted by the IOM International Class Association. Skip to content. ... Hans hans Posts: 2 Joined: 17 Apr 2013, 13:31 Sail number: 00 Design: BritPop. BRITPOP For sale. Post by Hans hans » 17 Apr 2013, 13:54 COMPLETE BRITPOP, 3 KITS SPARS, 3 SET OF SAILS, AND DIFFERENT SPARE FITTINGS. 1800€ ...
Thread OP. $2,995.00 USD. Buyer pays shipping. For Sale. New BritPOP. Selling my 2023 BritPOP! IOM, built by Denis Asbury in Brazil, Includes Brad Gibson A and B sails, (A is fully Rigged B is not) Sail Bag, RMG winch and Savox rudder servo. I have had it in the water maybe 4 times max. I have too many boats and this should go to a competitor ...
One Metre Class. SAILSetc has a long association with the International One Metre class supplying specially designed products since the class's inception in 1988. From the first World Championship in 1994 SAILSetc designed boats and equipment have given outstanding performance for a large number of sailors against the toughest competition at ...
One Metre Class Boats. Since the IOM design was introduced in the late 1980s dozens of designs have been tried and tested throughout large and highly competitive fleets in Europe and Australasia. It's only recently that one or two designs have begun to dominate, although single design variety has really dominated. The answer lies in the quasi ...
think is Graham Elliott's 3rd place Britpop; 42 is 2nd place Brad Gibson an dhis britpop • John Taylor IOM tuning guide • K2 assembly & trim (Sailboat RC) • Zvonko sails tuning set-up • Making a tensionometer Comments on rig set-up (various) Comments by John Ball: Mast ram closes the main sail twist and is the last item to adjust.
The Ellipsis…. IOM represents a different approach to what is now "conventional chine" boats, The truth is chines do not do what designers say they do. They do not "grip" the water or generate lift, or stop the boat going sideways in any way. The main application of a chine on modern IOM's is to easily allow a boat to have tumble ...
Mast Layout Diagram. Upper Measurement Band (bottom edge) measured upwards from Lower Measurement Band A Rig 1600mm B Rig 1180mm C Rig 880mm. Middle Measurement Band (bottom edge) measured downwards from Upper Measurement Band A Rig 220mm B Rig 160mm C Rig 120mm. Forestay hole in front edge of mast 5mm below underside of measurement band.
Carriacou, Grenada - Volunteers from near and far have converged on Carriacou, a small paradise island in Grenada, to provide assistance and a glimmer of hope to the residents devastated by Hurricane Beryl, which hit on 1 July 2024. This Category 4 hurricane, the most powerful ever recorded in the Atlantic in June, has left the island in ruins, damaging more than 95 per cent of buildings and ...
Passengers due to travel on the Manxman's 02:15 return service were transferred to back-up vessel the Ben-My-Chree, which set sail shortly after 05:00, leading to significant delays to the ...