cruising yacht hulls

The Definitive Guide to Sailboat Hull Types

If you’ve ever been on a sailboat or any kind of boat, one of the first parts of the boat you saw was its hull and you might not have even known it.

Simply put, the hull is the bottom part of a boat that rides in and on top of the water. When a sailboat is underwater, it’s accompanied by the keel and the rudder.

Just like knowing the different types of sails , knowing the hull type on your sailboat means you’ll have a better understanding of how your boat operates while it’s out on the water.

All in all, the hull of any boat is meant to keep the boat afloat and to ensure minimum resistance against the water while being propelled forward. Now let’s dive into the different sailboat hull types and even some other types of hulls in boats in general!

Main Sailboat Hull Types

There are two main hull types that we’ll be looking at that encompass the many other types of hulls that vary from these two main types.

Depending on the type of boat you have, you’ll be floating around with one or the other. We’ll take a look at what you can expect if your boat has either of these hull types.

Displacement Hulls

The most common sailboat hull type you’ll find out there is the displacement hull, which is very effective at pushing the water aside and powering through it during forward propulsion.

A displacement hull is often found not only on sailboats, but also fishing, freight, cruise, and other larger boats.

All boats that have a displacement hull will be limited in their speed based on the waterline length of the hull. Regardless of how much power you use, whether it’s from the wind or motor, the maximum speed can’t be increased.

This is why you’ll see people mention the waterline length of a boat’s hull when putting them on the market to sell.

The big advantage of having a displacement hull is that they require far less power to get moving across the water compared to the other main hull type; the planing hull.

What this means is that your boat will be able to cruise for a long time with the same amount of energy, which also allows you to carry more items on board.

Planing Hulls

It’s almost guaranteed that your sailboat won’t have a planing hull since they’re most commonly found on powerboats and personal watercrafts (PWCs), like jet skis.

Planing hulls allow the boat to lift itself out of the water, reducing drag and increasing the speed of the boat.

Almost any boat that’s equipped with a planing hull will be able to attain a speed much greater than a boat with a displacement boat.

The main reason for this is the lift that’s produced when traveling at high speeds which reduces drag on the water.

The maximum speed of a boat with a planing hull is dependent on the horsepower of the engine and how much of the hull can be removed from the water while still cruising.

The biggest advantage of having a planing hull is that your boat will be able to pick up speed quickly and reach a greater maximum speed.

This allows for shorter journey times. However, there needs to be a source of all that energy, which comes directly from a combustion engine. The faster a boat with a planing hull goes, the larger the cost of fuel will be.

How Planing Works

The way planing works is actually pretty interesting, so I thought I’d dive into it a bit. Even though a sailboat is virtually guaranteed not to have one, it’s always nice to know how other boats operate while out on the water.

1. Displacement

Before a boat with a planing hull actually planes, it starts out acting like a displacement hull.

As a matter of fact, a boat with a planing hull needs to reach a certain speed before it starts to produce lift. Before that happens, it’s essentially a displacement hull.

While a boat with a planing hull is picking up speed and lifting itself out of the water, it’s in a plowing mode.

You’ll know when a boat is in plowing mode when the bow of the boat is elevated and the boat is throwing a relatively large wake. The goal, however, is to move from plowing mode to planing mode, which requires further acceleration.

Once the boat with a planing hull reaches a certain speed, it’ll leave plowing mode and enter planing mode.

As I already described, planing is when the hull is gliding across the water with a smaller amount of the hull dragging in the water when compared to the previous modes. Different boats will start planing when reaching different speeds.

Common Sailboat Hull Styles

Now that we’ve gone over the two main types of hulls you’ll find in sailboats and other types of boats, we have a good foundation for the hull styles you’ll commonly see when out on the water.

There are three main hull styles that you’ll see quite often, so let’s take a look at those.

By far the most common hull style you’ll see on sailboats is the monohull, which is simply a single hull.

Traditionally, a sailboat will have a monohull and they can be found all over the place. It’s probably the style of hull that comes to most peoples’ mind when imagining a sailboat.

Monohulls on sailboats are virtually all displacement hulls. As we went over previously, this allows your sailboat to cruise for long stretches and has a greater efficiency compared to planing hulls.

However, most boats that exist on planet earth are monohulls, including powerboats, which can also be of the planing hull type.

When it comes to a monohull on a sailboat, the only way it can keep its stability is to have a proper keel attached to it.

A keel is a wing-like object that sticks out of the bottom of the hull in the water and provides a sailboat with ballast for stability. It’s important to understand how a keel works when operating a sailboat with a monohull since it’s one of the main reasons a sailboat can move forward without tipping.

There are certainly a lot of monohull sailboats out there, but there’s no doubt that you’ll also see your fair share of catamarans.

Catamarans are sailboats with two hulls and operate quite differently than their monohull cousin. Catamarans are known to be fast and are likely to outrun most monohull sailboats.

Unlike monohull sailboats, catamarans can be fitted with displacement hulls as well as planing hulls. However, even if they have a planing hull they can still produce a relatively good amount of cruising time and do so rather efficiently.

Catamarans are a bit different than monohulls in the sense that they can reach greater speeds. There are several reasons for this. For one, a catamaran doesn’t need a ballast for stability since the broad stance between the two hulls provides enough stability.

This means there’s no need for a large, heavy keel. Second, they’re often built out of lightweight materials that allow the boat to reach a higher maximum speed compared to heavier sailboats.

Also, if a catamaran has a planing hull, it’ll have the ability to produce lift resulting in reduced drag on the water and even greater speeds.

Unfortunately, catamarans do have the disadvantage of being more likely to capsize in unwanted high-wind situations.

Also, it’s very difficult for a catamaran to recover from capsizing as opposed to a monohull sailboat that has a good ballast from its keel.

You might have already guessed from the name, but I’ll state the obvious anyway. A trimaran is exactly like a catamaran but with three hulls instead of two.

Often times you’ll see a trimaran look like a monohull sailboat with a pair of hulls attached to its side.

Similar to a catamaran, trimarans can hit speeds much greater than your average monohull sailboat. As a matter of fact, they’re known to be “unsinkable” under the situation that the hulls on the port and starboard side of the central hull are completely filled up with water.

One of the coolest aspects of having a trimaran is that when it has a planing hull and/or a hydrofoil, the trimaran’s central hull will lift completely out of the water.

This gives it the effect that it’s floating across the air, which is the result of lift produced from the planing hull or a hydrofoil. It’s very cool to see this!

Sailboat Hull Bottoms

Apart from the main boat hull styles, like the monohull, catamaran, and trimaran, there are hull bottoms that pop up in the world of boating that can differ in style and function.

These hull bottoms are more of a deeper look at the hulls of a monohull, catamaran, or trimaran, so you can think of them more as a feature of any of the previously mentioned styles of hull.

Flat Bottom

A very common hull bottom for boats that are derived from the planing hull type is a flat bottom hull.

The flat bottom hull is considered to be one of the less stable styles of hulls, especially when confronted with rough waters.

However, you’ll often find them on boats that don’t necessarily ride in these situations, including fishing or taxi areas.

• Good for small lakes and rivers due to having a shallow draft.
• Able to hit relatively high speeds once entering planing mode.

Disadvantages

• Not good at handling choppy waters resulting in a rough ride.

Round Bottom

When it comes to sailboats, you’re most likely going to run into monohull sailboats that have a displacement style hull with a round bottom.

While these are the most common hull bottom for sailboats, they can also be found on smaller boats that are used for fishing, canoeing, and other similar kinds of boats.

• Easily moves through the water due to being a displacement hull type.
• When accompanied by a keel, it produces a great amount of stability from the ballast.
• Without a keel, it can roll when entering and exiting the boat as well as when waves are present.
• Less maneuverable compared to other hull styles.

Deep ‘V’ Bottom

If you’re operating a powerboat, then in all likeliness your boat has a planing hull with a deep ‘V’ bottom.

Since deep ‘V’ bottoms are found on planing hulls, these types of boats will be able to pick up speed quickly and at high maximums. This is the most common setup for powerboats out on the water.

This is the most common type of powerboat hull. This hull type allows boats to move through rough water at higher speeds and they provide a smoother ride than other hull types.

• Provides a smooth ride compared to its flat bottom rival.
• Good at handling rough water.
• Requires more power to plane compared to its flat bottom rival.
• Cannot handle sharp turns very well resulting in potential rolling or banking.

Multi-Chine Bottom

We took a good look at multi-hull styles like the catamaran and the trimaran earlier, which are the exact style of hulls that have a multi-chine bottom.

A multi-chine bottom is a great example of a displacement hull on either a catamaran or trimaran as it’s the most common bottom you’ll find.

• In a multi-hull boat, it has a great amount of stability due to its wide beam.
• In a multi-hull boat, it needs a large area when either tacking or jibing.

Main Parts of a Sailboat Hull

There’s some terminology I threw around while describing the many types of hulls a sailboat and other types of boats have.

As is the case with a lot of activities, learning the terminology is just something you have to do.

Thankfully, the terminology will eventually sink in overtime and eventually you’ll be able to ring off any hull terminology that comes up.

The bow is simply the most forward part of a sailboat and, thus, the very front of the hull.

The stern, conversely to the bow, is the most backward part of a sailboat and, thus, the very end of the hull.

The port side of a hull is the left side. I always remember this with the phrase “I left my port on the table”, with the port being wine.

This just so happens to also be the side where boats will have a red light turned on at night, which is the color of port wine.

The starboard side of a hull is on the right side.

Opposite the port side, in the evening boats will have a green light turned on and will be located on the starboard side of the boat.

Fore is a sailor’s way of saying “forward”.

Aft is a sailor’s way of saying “back”.

A transom is the aft-most (see what I did there?) section of the boat that connects the port and starboard sections of the boat.

The flare of a hull is where the hull starts to form a large angle the closer the hull gets to the deck.

The waterline is the line around the hull where the water touches when under a normal load.

Waterline Length

The waterline length, once referred to as the Load Waterline Length (LWL), is the length of the hull where the waterline is located.

This is not the entire length of the boat.

Length Overall (LOA)

The length overall (LOA) is, you guessed it, the overall length of the boat. This is measured from the tip of the bow to the end of the stern.

The freeboard is the space on the hull of a boat above the waterline and below the deck.

The draft is the length from the bottom-most part of a boat (the tip of the keel on a sailboat) and the waterline.

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• Yachting World
• Digital Edition

43 of the best bluewater sailboat designs of all time

• January 5, 2022

How do you choose the right yacht for you? We highlight the very best bluewater sailboat designs for every type of cruising

Which yacht is the best for bluewater boating? This question generates even more debate among sailors than questions about what’s the coolest yacht , or the best for racing. Whereas racing designs are measured against each other, cruising sailors get very limited opportunities to experience different yachts in real oceangoing conditions, so what is the best bluewater sailboat?

Here, we bring you our top choices from decades of designs and launches. Over the years, the Yachting World team has sailed these boats, tested them or judged them for European Yacht of the Year awards, and we have sifted through the many to curate a selection that we believe should be on your wishlist.

Making the right choice may come down to how you foresee your yacht being used after it has crossed an ocean or completed a passage: will you be living at anchor or cruising along the coast? If so, your guiding requirements will be space, cabin size, ease of launching a tender and anchoring closer to shore, and whether it can comfortably accommodate non-expert-sailor guests.

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All of these considerations have generated the inexorable rise of the bluewater catamaran – monohulls can’t easily compete on these points. We have a full separate feature on the best bluewater multihulls of all time and here we mostly focus on monohulls. The only exceptions to that rule are two multihulls which made it into our best bluewater sailboats of 2022 list.

As so much of making the right choice is selecting the right boat for the venture in mind, we have separated out our edit into categories: best for comfort; for families; for performance; and for expedition or high latitudes sailing .

Best bluewater sailboats of 2022

The new flagship Allures 51.9, for example, is a no-nonsense adventure cruising design built and finished to a high standard. It retains Allures’ niche of using aluminium hulls with glassfibre decks and superstructures, which, the yard maintains, gives the optimum combination of least maintenance and less weight higher up. Priorities for this design were a full beam aft cabin and a spacious, long cockpit. Both are excellent, with the latter, at 6m long, offering formidable social, sailing and aft deck zones.

It likes some breeze to come to life on the wheel, but I appreciate that it’s designed to take up to five tonnes payload. And I like the ease with which you can change gears using the furling headsails and the positioning of the powerful Andersen winches inboard. The arch is standard and comes with a textile sprayhood or hard bimini.

Below decks you’ll find abundant headroom and natural light, a deep U-shape galley and cavernous stowage. For those who like the layout of the Amel 50 but would prefer aluminium or shoal draught, look no further.

Allures 51.9 price: €766,000

The Ovni 370 is another cunning new aluminum centreboard offering, a true deck saloon cruiser for two. The designers say the biggest challenge was to create a Category A ocean going yacht at this size with a lifting keel, hence the hull had to be very stable.

Enjoyable to helm, it has a practical, deep cockpit behind a large sprayhood, which can link to the bimini on the arch. Many of its most appealing features lie in the bright, light, contemporary, clever, voluminous interior, which has good stowage and tankage allocation. There’s also a practical navstation, a large workroom and a vast separate shower. I particularly like the convertible saloom, which can double as a large secure daybed or pilot berth.

Potentially the least expensive Category A lift keel boat available, the Ovni will get you dreaming of remote places again.

Ovni 370 price: €282,080

There’s no shortage of spirit in the Windelo 50. We gave this a sustainability award after it’s founders spent two years researching environmentally-friendly composite materials, developing an eco-composite of basalt fibre and recycled PET foam so it could build boats that halve the environmental impact of standard glassfibre yachts.

The Windelo 50 is an intriguing package – from the styling, modular interior and novel layout to the solar field on the roof and the standard electric propulsion, it is completely fresh.

Windelo 50 price: €795,000

Best bluewater sailboat of 2022 – Outremer 55

I would argue that this is the most successful new production yacht on the market. Well over 50 have already sold (an equipped model typically costs €1.6m) – and I can understand why. After all, were money no object, I had this design earmarked as the new yacht I would most likely choose for a world trip.

Indeed 55 number one Sanya, was fully equipped for a family’s world cruise, and left during our stay for the Grand Large Odyssey tour. Whereas we sailed Magic Kili, which was tricked up with performance options, including foam-cored deckheads and supports, carbon crossbeam and bulkheads, and synthetic rigging.

At rest, these are enticing space ships. Taking one out to sea is another matter though. These are speed machines with the size, scale and loads to be rightly weary of. Last month Nikki Henderson wrote a feature for us about how to manage a new breed of performance cruising cats just like this and how she coaches new owners. I could not think of wiser money spent for those who do not have ample multihull sailing experience.

Under sail, the most fun was obviously reserved for the reaching leg under asymmetric, where we clocked between 11-16 knots in 15-16 knots wind. But it was the stability and of those sustained low teen speeds which really hit home  – passagemaking where you really cover miles.

Key features include the swing helms, which give you views from outboard, over the coachroof or from a protected position in the cockpit through the coachroof windows, and the vast island in the galley, which is key to an open plan main living area. It helps provide cavernous stowage and acts as the heart of the entertaining space as it would in a modern home. As Danish judge Morten Brandt-Rasmussen comments: “Apart from being the TGV of ocean passages the boat offers the most spacious, open and best integration of the cockpit and salon areas in the market.”

Outremer has done a top job in packing in the creature comforts, stowage space and payload capacity, while keeping it light enough to eat miles. Although a lot to absorb and handle, the 55 offers a formidable blend of speed and luxury cruising.

Outremer 55 price: €1.35m

Best bluewater sailboats for comfort

This is the successor to the legendary Super Maramu, a ketch design that for several decades defined easy downwind handling and fostered a cult following for the French yard. Nearly a decade old, the Amel 55 is the bridge between those world-girdling stalwarts and Amel’s more recent and totally re-imagined sloop designs, the Amel 50 and 60.

The 55 boasts all the serious features Amel aficionados loved and valued: a skeg-hung rudder, solidly built hull, watertight bulkheads, solid guardrails and rampart bulwarks. And, most noticeable, the solid doghouse in which the helmsman sits in perfect shelter at the wheel.

This is a design to live on comfortably for long periods and the list of standard features just goes on and on: passarelle; proper sea berths with lee cloths; electric furling main and genoa; and a multitude of practical items that go right down to a dishwasher and crockery.

There’s no getting around the fact these designs do look rather dated now, and through the development of easier sail handling systems the ketch rig has fallen out of fashion, but the Amel is nothing short of a phenomenon, and if you’ve never even peeked on board one, you really have missed a treat.

Photo: Sander van der Borch

Contest 50CS

A centre cockpit cruiser with true longevity, the Contest 50CS was launched by Conyplex back in 2003 and is still being built by the family-owned Dutch company, now in updated and restyled form.

With a fully balanced rudder, large wheel and modern underwater sections, the Contest 50CS is a surprisingly good performer for a boat that has a dry weight of 17.5 tonnes. Many were fitted with in-mast furling, which clearly curtails that performance, but even without, this boat is set up for a small crew.

Electric winches and mainsheet traveller are all easy to reach from the helm. On our test of the Contest 50CS, we saw for ourselves how two people can gybe downwind under spinnaker without undue drama. Upwind, a 105% genoa is so easy to tack it flatters even the weediest crewmember.

Down below, the finish level of the joinery work is up there among the best and the interior is full of clever touches, again updated and modernised since the early models. Never the cheapest bluewater sailing yacht around, the Contest 50CS has remained in demand as a brokerage buy. She is a reassuringly sure-footed, easily handled, very well built yacht that for all those reasons has stood the test of time.

This is a yacht that would be well capable of helping you extend your cruising grounds, almost without realising it.

Read more about the Contest 50CS and the new Contest 49CS

Photo: Rick Tomlinson

Hallberg-Rassy 48 Mk II

For many, the Swedish Hallberg-Rassy yard makes the quintessential bluewater cruiser for couples. With their distinctive blue cove line, these designs are famous for their seakindly behaviour, solid-as-a-rock build and beautifully finished, traditional interiors.

To some eyes, Hallberg-Rassys aren’t quite cool enough, but it’s been company owner Magnus Rassy’s confidence in the formula and belief in incremental ‘step-by-step’ evolution that has been such an exceptional guarantor of reliable quality, reputation and resale value.

The centre cockpit Hallberg-Rassy 48 epitomises the concept of comfort at sea and, like all the Frers-designed Hallberg-Rassys since the 1990s, is surprisingly fleet upwind as well as steady downwind. The 48 is perfectly able to be handled by a couple (as we found a few years back in the Pacific), and could with no great effort crack out 200-mile days.

The Hallberg-Rassy 48 was launched nearly a decade ago, but the Mk II from 2014 is our pick, updated with a more modern profile, larger windows and hull portlights that flood the saloon and aft cabin with light. With a large chart table, secure linear galley, heaps of stowage and space for bluewater extras such as machinery and gear, this yacht pretty much ticks all the boxes.

Discovery 55

First launched in 2000, the Discovery 55 has stood the test of time. Designed by Ron Holland, it hit a sweet spot in size that appealed to couples and families with world girdling plans.

Elegantly styled and well balanced, the 55 is also a practical design, with a deep and secure cockpit, comfortable seating, a self-tacking jib, dedicated stowage for the liferaft , a decent sugar scoop transom that’s useful for swimming or dinghy access, and very comfortable accommodation below. In short, it is a design that has been well thought out by those who’ve been there, got the bruises, stubbed their toes and vowed to change things in the future if they ever got the chance.

Throughout the accommodation there are plenty of examples of good detailing, from the proliferation of handholds and grabrails, to deep sinks in the galley offering immediate stowage when under way and the stand up/sit down showers. Stowage is good, too, with plenty of sensibly sized lockers in easily accessible positions.

The Discovery 55 has practical ideas and nifty details aplenty. She’s not, and never was, a breakthrough in modern luxury cruising but she is pretty, comfortable to sail and live on, and well mannered.

Photo: Latitudes Picture Library

You can’t get much more Cornish than a Rustler. The hulls of this Stephen Jones design are hand-moulded and fitted out in Falmouth – and few are more ruggedly built than this traditional, up-for-anything offshore cruiser.

She boasts an encapsulated lead keel, eliminating keel bolts and creating a sump for generous fuel and water tankage, while a chunky skeg protects the rudder. She is designed for good directional stability and load carrying ability. These are all features that lend this yacht confidence as it shoulders aside the rough stuff.

Most of those built have had a cutter rig, a flexible arrangement that makes sense for long passages in all sea and weather conditions. Down below, the galley and saloon berths are comfortable and sensible for living in port and at sea, with joinery that Rustler’s builders are rightly proud of.

As modern yachts have got wider, higher and fatter, the Rustler 42 is an exception. This is an exceptionally well-mannered seagoing yacht in the traditional vein, with elegant lines and pleasing overhangs, yet also surprisingly powerful. And although now over 20 years old, timeless looks and qualities mean this design makes her look ever more like a perennial, a modern classic.

The definitive crossover size, the point at which a yacht can be handled by a couple but is just large enough to have a professional skipper and be chartered, sits at around the 60ft mark. At 58ft 8in, the Oyster 575 fitted perfectly into this growing market when launched in 2010. It went on to be one of the most popular models from the yard, and is only now being superseded by the newer Rob Humphreys-designed Oyster 565 (just launched this spring).

Built in various configurations with either a deep keel, shoal draught keel or centreboard with twin rudders, owners could trade off better performance against easy access to shallower coves and anchorages. The deep-bodied hull, also by Rob Humphreys, is known for its easy motion at sea.

Some of the Oyster 575’s best features include its hallmark coachroof windows style and centre cockpit – almost everyone will know at first glance this is an Oyster – and superb interior finish. If she has a flaw, it is arguably the high cockpit, but the flip side is the galley headroom and passageway berth to the large aft stateroom.

This design also has a host of practical features for long-distance cruising, such as high guardrails, dedicated liferaft stowage, a vast lazarette for swallowing sails, tender, fenders etc, and a penthouse engine room.

Privilege Serie 5

A true luxury catamaran which, fully fitted out, will top €1m, this deserves to be seen alongside the likes of the Oyster 575, Gunfleet 58 and Hallberg-Rassy 55. It boasts a large cockpit and living area, and a light and spacious saloon with an emphasis on indoor-outdoor living, masses of refrigeration and a big galley.

Standout features are finish quality and solid build in a yacht designed to take a high payload, a secure walkaround deck and all-round views from the helm station. The new Privilege 510 that will replace this launches in February 2020.

Gunfleet 43

It was with this Tony Castro design that Richard Matthews, founder of Oyster Yachts, launched a brand new rival brand in 2012, the smallest of a range stretching to the flagship Gunfleet 74. The combination of short overhangs and centre cockpit at this size do make the Gunfleet 43 look modern if a little boxy, but time and subsequent design trends have been kind to her lines, and the build quality is excellent. The saloon, galley and aft cabin space is exceptional on a yacht of this size.

Photo: David Harding

Conceived as a belt-and-braces cruiser, the Kraken 50 launched last year. Its unique points lie underwater in the guise of a full skeg-hung rudder and so-called ‘Zero Keel’, an encapsulated long keel with lead ballast.

Kraken Yachts is the brainchild of British businessman and highly experienced cruiser Dick Beaumont, who is adamant that safety should be foremost in cruising yacht design and build. “There is no such thing as ‘one yacht for all purposes’… You cannot have the best of all worlds, whatever the salesman tells you,” he says.

Read our full review of the Kraken 50 .

Wauquiez Centurion 57

Few yachts can claim to be both an exciting Med-style design and a serious and practical northern European offshore cruiser, but the Wauquiez Centurion 57 tries to blend both. She slightly misses if you judge solely by either criterion, but is pretty and practical enough to suit her purpose.

A very pleasant, well-considered yacht, she is impressively built and finished with a warm and comfortable interior. More versatile than radical, she could be used for sailing across the Atlantic in comfort and raced with equal enjoyment at Antigua Sailing Week .

A modern classic if ever there was one. A medium to heavy displacement yacht, stiff and easily capable of standing up to her canvas. Pretty, traditional lines and layout below.

Photo: Voyage of Swell

Well-proven US legacy design dating back to the mid-1960s that once conquered the Transpac Race . Still admired as pretty, with slight spoon bow and overhanging transom.

Capable medium displacement cruiser, ideal size and good accommodation for couples or family cruising, and much less costly than similar luxury brands.

Photo: Peter Szamer

Swedish-built aft cockpit cruiser, smaller than many here, but a well-built and finished, super-durable pocket ocean cruiser.

Tartan 3700

Designed as a performance cruiser there are nimbler alternatives now, but this is still an extremely pretty yacht.

Broker ’ s choice

Discovery 55 Brizo

This yacht has already circumnavigated the globe and is ‘prepared for her next adventure,’ says broker Berthon. Price: £535,000 + VAT

Oyster 575 Ayesha

‘Stunning, and perfectly equipped for bluewater cruising,’ says broker Ancasta International. Price: £845,000 (tax not paid)

Oyster 575 Pearls of Nautilus

Nearly new and with a high spec, this Oyster Brokerage yacht features American white oak joinery and white leather upholstery and has a shoal draught keel. Price: $1.49m

Best bluewater yachts for performance

The Frers-designed Swan 54 may not be the newest hull shape but heralded Swan’s latest generation of displacement bluewater cruisers when launched four years ago. With raked stem, deep V hull form, lower freeboard and slight curve to the topsides she has a more timeless aesthetic than many modern slab-sided high volume yachts, and with that a seakindly motion in waves. If you plan to cover many miles to weather, this is probably the yacht you want to be on.

Photo: Carlo Borlenghi

Besides Swan’s superlative build quality, the 54 brings many true bluewater features, including a dedicated sail locker. There’s also a cockpit locker that functions as a utility cabin, with potential to hold your generator and washing machine, or be a workshop space.

The sloping transom opens out to reveal a 2.5m bathing platform, and although the cabins are not huge there is copious stowage space. Down below the top-notch oak joinery is well thought through with deep fiddles, and there is a substantial nav station. But the Swan 54 wins for handling above all, with well laid-out sail controls that can be easily managed between a couple, while offering real sailing enjoyment to the helmsman.

Photo: Graham Snook

The Performance Cruiser winner at the 2019 European Yacht of the Year awards, the Arcona 435 is all about the sailing experience. She has genuine potential as a cruiser-racer, but her strengths are as an enjoyable cruiser rather than a full-blown liveaboard bluewater boat.

Build quality is excellent, there is the option of a carbon hull and deck, and elegant lines and a plumb bow give the Arcona 435 good looks as well as excellent performance in light airs. Besides slick sail handling systems, there are well thought-out features for cruising, such as ample built-in rope bins and an optional semi-closed stern with stowage and swim platform.

Outremer 51

If you want the space and stability of a cat but still prioritise sailing performance, Outremer has built a reputation on building catamarans with true bluewater characteristics that have cruised the planet for the past 30 years.

Lighter and slimmer-hulled than most cruising cats, the Outremer 51 is all about sailing at faster speeds, more easily. The lower volume hulls and higher bridgedeck make for a better motion in waves, while owners report that being able to maintain a decent pace even under reduced canvas makes for stress-free passages. Deep daggerboards also give good upwind performance.

With bucket seats and tiller steering options, the Outremer 51 rewards sailors who want to spend time steering, while they’re famously well set up for handling with one person on deck. The compromise comes with the interior space – even with a relatively minimalist style, there is less cabin space and stowage volume than on the bulkier cats, but the Outremer 51 still packs in plenty of practical features.

The Xc45 was the first cruising yacht X-Yachts ever built, and designed to give the same X-Yachts sailing experience for sailors who’d spent years racing 30/40-footer X- and IMX designs, but in a cruising package.

Launched over 10 years ago, the Xc45 has been revisited a few times to increase the stowage and modernise some of the styling, but the key features remain the same, including substantial tanks set low for a low centre of gravity, and X-Yachts’ trademark steel keel grid structure. She has fairly traditional styling and layout, matched with solid build quality.

A soft bilge and V-shaped hull gives a kindly motion in waves, and the cockpit is secure, if narrow by modern standards.

A three or four cabin catamaran that’s fleet of foot with high bridgedeck clearance for comfortable motion at sea. With tall daggerboards and carbon construction in some high load areas, Catana cats are light and quick to accelerate.

Sweden Yachts 45

An established bluewater design that also features in plenty of offshore races. Some examples are specced with carbon rig and retractable bowsprits. All have a self-tacking jib for ease. Expect sweeping areas of teak above decks and a traditionally wooded interior with hanging wet locker.

A vintage performer, first launched in 1981, the 51 was the first Frers-designed Swan and marked a new era of iconic cruiser-racers. Some 36 of the Swan 51 were built, many still actively racing and cruising nearly 40 years on. Classic lines and a split cockpit make this a boat for helming, not sunbathing.

Photo: Julien Girardot / EYOTY

The JPK 45 comes from a French racing stable, combining race-winning design heritage with cruising amenities. What you see is what you get – there are no superfluous headliners or floorboards, but there are plenty of ocean sailing details, like inboard winches for safe trimming. The JPK 45 also has a brilliantly designed cockpit with an optional doghouse creating all-weather shelter, twin wheels and superb clutch and rope bin arrangement.

Photo: Andreas Lindlahr

For sailors who don’t mind exchanging a few creature comforts for downwind planing performance, the Pogo 50 offers double-digit surfing speeds for exhilarating tradewind sailing. There’s an open transom, tiller steering and no backstay or runners. The Pogo 50 also has a swing keel, to nose into shallow anchorages.

Seawind 1600

Seawinds are relatively unknown in Europe, but these bluewater cats are very popular in Australia. As would be expected from a Reichel-Pugh design, this 52-footer combines striking good looks and high performance, with fine entry bows and comparatively low freeboard. Rudders are foam cored lifting designs in cassettes, which offer straightforward access in case of repairs, while daggerboards are housed under the deck.

Best bluewater sailboats for families

It’s unsurprising that, for many families, it’s a catamaran that meets their requirements best of increased space – both living space and separate cabins for privacy-seeking teenagers, additional crew or visiting family – as well as stable and predictable handling.

Photo: Nicholas Claris

Undoubtedly one of the biggest success stories has been the Lagoon 450, which, together with boats like the Fountaine Pajot 44, helped drive up the popularity of catamaran cruising by making it affordable and accessible. They have sold in huge numbers – over 1,000 Lagoon 450s have been built since its launch in 2010.

The VPLP-designed 450 was originally launched with a flybridge with a near central helming position and upper level lounging areas (450F). The later ‘sport top’ option (450S) offered a starboard helm station and lower boom (and hence lower centre of gravity for reduced pitching). The 450S also gained a hull chine to create additional volume above the waterline. The Lagoon features forward lounging and aft cockpit areas for additional outdoor living space.

Besides being a big hit among charter operators, Lagoons have proven themselves over thousands of bluewater miles – there were seven Lagoon 450s in last year’s ARC alone. In what remains a competitive sector of the market, Lagoon has recently launched a new 46, with a larger self-tacking jib and mast moved aft, and more lounging areas.

Photo: Gilles Martin-Raget

Fountaine Pajot Helia 44

The FP Helia 44 is lighter, lower volume, and has a lower freeboard than the Lagoon, weighing in at 10.8 tonnes unloaded (compared to 15 for the 450). The helm station is on a mezzanine level two steps up from the bridgedeck, with a bench seat behind. A later ‘Evolution’ version was designed for liveaboard cruisers, featuring beefed up dinghy davits and an improved saloon space.

Available in three or four cabin layouts, the Helia 44 was also popular with charter owners as well as families. The new 45 promises additional volume, and an optional hydraulically lowered ‘beach club’ swim platform.

Photo: Arnaud De Buyzer / graphikup.com

The French RM 1370 might be less well known than the big brand names, but offers something a little bit different for anyone who wants a relatively voluminous cruising yacht. Designed by Marc Lombard, and beautifully built from plywood/epoxy, the RM is stiff and responsive, and sails superbly.

The RM yachts have a more individual look – in part down to the painted finish, which encourages many owners to personalise their yachts, but also thanks to their distinctive lines with reverse sheer and dreadnought bow. The cockpit is well laid out with the primary winches inboard for a secure trimming position. The interior is light, airy and modern, although the open transom won’t appeal to everyone.

For those wanting a monohull, the Hanse 575 hits a similar sweet spot to the popular multis, maximising accommodation for a realistic price, yet with responsive performance.

The Hanse offers a vast amount of living space thanks to the ‘loft design’ concept of having all the living areas on a single level, which gives a real feeling of spaciousness with no raised saloon or steps to accommodation. The trade-off for such lofty head height is a substantial freeboard – it towers above the pontoon, while, below, a stepladder is provided to reach some hatches.

Galley options include drawer fridge-freezers, microwave and coffee machine, and the full size nav station can double up as an office or study space.

But while the Hanse 575 is a seriously large boat, its popularity is also down to the fact that it is genuinely able to be handled by a couple. It was innovative in its deck layout: with a self-tacking jib and mainsheet winches immediately to hand next to the helm, one person could both steer and trim.

Direct steering gives a feeling of control and some tangible sailing fun, while the waterline length makes for rapid passage times. In 2016 the German yard launched the newer Hanse 588 model, having already sold 175 of the 575s in just four years.

Photo: Bertel Kolthof

Jeanneau 54

Jeanneau leads the way among production builders for versatile all-rounder yachts that balance sail performance and handling, ergonomics, liveaboard functionality and good looks. The Jeanneau 54 , part of the range designed by Philippe Briand with interior by Andrew Winch, melds the best of the larger and smaller models and is available in a vast array of layout options from two cabins/two heads right up to five cabins and three heads.

We’ve tested the Jeanneau 54 in a gale and very light winds, and it acquitted itself handsomely in both extremes. The primary and mainsheet winches are to hand next to the wheel, and the cockpit is spacious, protected and child-friendly. An electric folding swim and sun deck makes for quick fun in the water.

Nautitech Open 46

This was the first Nautitech catamaran to be built under the ownership of Bavaria, designed with an open-plan bridgedeck and cockpit for free-flowing living space. But with good pace for eating up bluewater miles, and aft twin helms rather than a flybridge, the Nautitech Open 46 also appeals to monohull sailors who prefer a more direct sailing experience.

Made by Robertson and Caine, who produce catamarans under a dual identity as both Leopard and the Sunsail/Moorings charter cats, the Leopard 45 is set to be another big seller. Reflecting its charter DNA, the Leopard 45 is voluminous, with stepped hulls for reduced waterline, and a separate forward cockpit.

Built in South Africa, they are robustly tested off the Cape and constructed ruggedly enough to handle heavy weather sailing as well as the demands of chartering.

Photo: Olivier Blanchet

If space is king then three hulls might be even better than two. The Neel 51 is rare as a cruising trimaran with enough space for proper liveaboard sailing. The galley and saloon are in the large central hull, together with an owner’s cabin on one level for a unique sensation of living above the water. Guest or family cabins lie in the outer hulls for privacy and there is a cavernous full height engine room under the cabin sole.

Performance is notably higher than an equivalent cruising cat, particularly in light winds, with a single rudder giving a truly direct feel in the helm, although manoeuvring a 50ft trimaran may daunt many sailors.

Beneteau Oceanis 46.1

A brilliant new model from Beneteau, this Finot Conq design has a modern stepped hull, which offers exhilarating and confidence-inspiring handling in big breezes, and slippery performance in lighter winds.

The Beneteau Oceanis 46.1 was the standout performer at this year’s European Yacht of the Year awards, and, in replacing the popular Oceanis 45, looks set to be another bestseller. Interior space is well used with a double island berth in the forepeak. An additional inboard unit creates a secure galley area, but tank capacity is moderate for long periods aboard.

Beneteau Oceanis 473

A popular model that offers beam and height in a functional layout, although, as with many boats of this age (she was launched in 2002), the mainsheet is not within reach of the helmsman.

Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 49

The Philippe Briand-designed Sun Odyssey range has a solid reputation as family production cruisers. Like the 473, the Sun Odyssey 49 was popular for charter so there are plenty of four-cabin models on the market.

Nautitech 441

The hull design dates back to 1995, but was relaunched in 2012. Though the saloon interior has dated, the 441 has solid practical features, such as a rainwater run-off collection gutter around the coachroof.

Atlantic 42

Chris White-designed cats feature a pilothouse and forward waist-high working cockpit with helm position, as well as an inside wheel at the nav station. The Atlantic 42 offers limited accommodation by modern cat standards but a very different sailing experience.

Best bluewater sailing yachts for expeditions

Bestevaer 56.

All of the yachts in our ‘expedition’ category are aluminium-hulled designs suitable for high latitude sailing, and all are exceptional yachts. But the Bestevaer 56 is a spectacular amount of boat to take on a true adventure. Each Bestevaer is a near-custom build with plenty of bespoke options for owners to customise the layout and where they fall on the scale of rugged off-grid adventurer to 4×4-style luxury fit out.

The Bestevaer range began when renowned naval architect Gerard Dijkstra chose to design his own personal yacht for liveaboard adventure cruising, a 53-footer. The concept drew plenty of interest from bluewater sailors wanting to make longer expeditions and Bestevaers are now available in a range of sizes, with the 56-footer proving a popular mid-range length.

The well-known Bestevaer 56 Tranquilo  (pictured above) has a deep, secure cockpit, voluminous tanks (700lt water and over 1,100lt fuel) and a lifting keel plus water ballast, with classically styled teak clad decks and pilot house. Other owners have opted for functional bare aluminium hull and deck, some choose a doghouse and others a pilothouse.

Photo: Jean-Marie Liot

The Boreal 52 also offers Land Rover-esque practicality, with utilitarian bare aluminium hulls and a distinctive double-level doghouse/coachroof arrangement for added protection in all weathers. The cockpit is clean and uncluttered, thanks to the mainsheet position on top of the doghouse, although for visibility in close manoeuvring the helmsman will want to step up onto the aft deck.

Twin daggerboards, a lifting centreboard and long skeg on which she can settle make this a true go-anywhere expedition yacht. The metres of chain required for adventurous anchoring is stowed in a special locker by the mast to keep the weight central. Down below has been thought through with equally practical touches, including plenty of bracing points and lighting that switches on to red light first to protect your night vision.

Photo: Morris Adant / Garcia Yachts

Garcia Exploration 45

The Garcia Exploration 45 comes with real experience behind her – she was created in association with Jimmy Cornell, based on his many hundreds of thousands of miles of bluewater cruising, to go anywhere from high latitudes to the tropics.

Arguably less of a looker than the Bestevaer, the Garcia Exploration 45 features a rounded aluminium hull, centreboard with deep skeg and twin daggerboards. The considerable anchor chain weight has again been brought aft, this time via a special conduit to a watertight locker in front of the centreboard.

This is a yacht designed to be lived on for extended periods with ample storage, and panoramic portlights to give a near 360° view of whichever extraordinary landscape you are exploring. Safety features include a watertight companionway door to keep extreme weather out and through-hull fittings placed above the waterline. When former Vendée Globe skipper Pete Goss went cruising , this was the boat he chose to do it in.

Photo: svnaima.com

A truly well-proven expedition design, some 1,500 Ovnis have been built and many sailed to some of the most far-flung corners of the world. (Jimmy Cornell sailed his Aventura some 30,000 miles, including two Drake Passage crossings, one in 50 knots of wind).

Futuna Exploration 54

Another aluminium design with a swinging centreboard and a solid enclosed pilothouse with protected cockpit area. There’s a chunky bowsprit and substantial transom arch to house all manner of electronics and power generation.

Previous boats have been spec’d for North West Passage crossings with additional heating and engine power, although there’s a carbon rig option for those that want a touch of the black stuff. The tanks are capacious, with 1,000lt capability for both fresh water and fuel.

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My Cruiser Life Magazine

Basics of Sailboat Hull Design – EXPLAINED For Owners

There are a lot of different sailboats in the world. In fact, they’ve been making sailboats for thousands of years. And over that time, mankind and naval architects (okay, mostly the naval architects!) have learned a thing or two.

If you’re wondering what makes one sailboat different from another, consider this article a primer. It certainly doesn’t contain everything you’d need to know to build a sailboat, but it gives the novice boater some ideas of what goes on behind the curtain. It will also provide some tips to help you compare different boats on the water, and hopefully, it will guide you towards the sort of boat you could call home one day.

Table of Contents

Displacement hulls, semi displacement hulls, planing hulls, history of sailboat hull design, greater waterline length, distinctive hull shape and fin keel designs, ratios in hull design, the hull truth and nothing but the truth, sail boat hull design faqs.

Basics of Hull Design

When you think about a sailboat hull and how it is built, you might start thinking about the shape of a keel. This has certainly spurred a lot of different designs over the years, but the hull of a sailboat today is designed almost independently of the keel. 

In fact, if you look at a particular make and model of sailboat, you’ll notice that the makers often offer it with a variety of keel options. For example, this new Jeanneau Sun Odyssey comes with either a full fin bulb keel, shallow draft bulb fin, or very shallow draft swing keel. Where older long keel designs had the keel included in the hull mold, today’s bolt-on fin keel designs allow the manufacturers more leeway in customizing a yacht to your specifications.

What you’re left with is a hull, and boat hulls take three basic forms.

• Displacement hull
• Semi-displacement hulls
• Planing hulls

Most times, the hull of a sailboat will be a displacement hull. To float, a boat must displace a volume of water equal in weight to that of the yacht. This is Archimedes Principle , and it’s how displacement hulled boats get their name.

The displacement hull sailboat has dominated the Maritimes for thousands of years. It has only been in the last century that other designs have caught on, thanks to advances in engine technologies. In short, sailboats and sail-powered ships are nearly always displacement cruisers because they lack the power to do anything else.

A displacement hull rides low in the water and continuously displaces its weight in water. That means that all of that water must be pushed out of the vessel’s way, and this creates some operating limitations. As it pushes the water, water is built up ahead of the boat in a bow wave. This wave creates a trough along the side of the boat, and the wave goes up again at the stern. The distance between the two waves is a limiting factor because the wave trough between them creates a suction. 

This suction pulls the boat down and creates drag as the vessel moves through the water. So in effect, no matter how much power is applied to a displacement hulled vessel, it cannot go faster than a certain speed. That speed is referred to as the hull speed, and it’s a factor of a boat’s length and width. 

For an average 38 foot sailboat, the hull speed is around 8.3 knots. This is why shipping companies competed to have the fastest ship for many years by building larger and larger ships.

While they might sound old-school and boring, displacement hulls are very efficient because they require very little power—and therefore very little fuel—to get them up to hull speed. This is one reason enormous container ships operate so efficiently. 

Of course, living in the 21st century, you undoubtedly have seen boats go faster than their hull speed. Going faster is simply a matter of defeating the bow wave in one way or another.

One way is to build the boat so that it can step up onto and ride the bow wave like a surfer. This is basically what a semi-displacement hull does. With enough power, this type of boat can surf its bow wave, break the suction it creates and beat its displacement hull speed.

With even more power, a boat can leave its bow wave in the dust and zoom past it. This requires the boat’s bottom to channel water away and sit on the surface. Once it is out of the water, any speed is achievable with enough power. 

But it takes enormous amounts of power to get a boat on plane, so planing hulls are hardly efficient. But they are fast. Speedboats are planing hulls, so if you require speed, go ahead and research the cost of a speedboat . 

The most stable and forgiving planing hull designs have a deep v hull. A very shallow draft, flat bottomed boat can plane too, but it provides an unforgiving and rough ride in any sort of chop.

If you compare the shapes of the sailboats of today with the cruising boat designs of the 1960s and 70s, you’ll notice that quite a lot has changed in the last 50-plus years. Of course, the old designs are still popular among sailors, but it’s not easy to find a boat like that being built today.

Today’s boats are sleeker. They have wide transoms and flat bottoms. They’re more likely to support fin keels and spade rudders. Rigs have also changed, with the fractional sloop being the preferred setup for most modern production boats.

Why have boats changed so much? And why did boats look so different back then?

One reason was the racing standards of the day. Boats in the 1960s were built to the IOR (International Offshore Rule). Since many owners raced their boats, the IOR handicaps standardized things to make fair play between different makes and models on the racecourse.

The IOR rule book was dense and complicated. But as manufacturers started building yachts, or as they looked at the competition and tried to do better, they all took a basic form. The IOR rule wasn’t the only one around . There were also the Universal Rule, International Rule, Yacht Racing Association Rul, Bermuda Rule, and a slew of others. 

Part of this similarity was the rule, and part of it was simply the collective knowledge and tradition of yacht building. But at that time, there was much less distance between the yachts you could buy from the manufacturers and those setting off on long-distance races.

Today, those wishing to compete in serious racing a building boat’s purpose-built for the task. As a result, one-design racing is now more popular. And similarly, pleasure boats designed for leisurely coastal and offshore hops are likewise built for the task at hand. No longer are the lines blurred between the two, and no longer are one set of sailors “making do” with the requirements set by the other set. 

Modern Features of Sailboat Hull Design

So, what exactly sets today’s cruising and liveaboard boats apart from those built-in decades past? 

Today’s designs usually feature plumb bows and the maximum beam carried to the aft end. The broad transom allows for a walk-through swim platform and sometimes even storage for the dinghy in a “garage.”

The other significant advantage of this layout is that it maximizes waterline length, which makes a faster boat. Unfortunately, while the boats of yesteryear might have had lovely graceful overhangs, their waterline lengths are generally no match for newer boats. 

The wide beam carried aft also provides an enormous amount of living space. The surface area of modern cockpits is nothing short of astounding when it comes to living and entertaining.

If you look at the hull lines or can catch a glimpse of these boats out of the water, you’ll notice their underwater profiles are radically different too. It’s hard to find a full keel design boat today. Instead, fin keels dominate, along with high aspect ratio spade rudders. 

The flat bottom boats of today mean a more stable boat that rides flatter. These boats can really move without heeling over like past designs. Additionally, their designs make it possible in some cases for these boats to surf their bow waves, meaning that with enough power, they can easily achieve and sometimes exceed—at least for short bursts—their hull speeds. Many of these features have been found on race boats for decades.

There are downsides to these designs, of course. The flat bottom boats often tend to pound when sailing upwind , but most sailors like the extra speed when heading downwind.

How Do You Make a Stable Hull

Ultimately, the job of a sailboat hull is to keep the boat afloat and create stability. These are the fundamentals of a seaworthy vessel. 

There are two types of stability that a design addresses . The first is the initial stability, which is how resistant to heeling the design is. For example, compare a classic, narrow-beamed monohull and a wide catamaran for a moment. The monohull has very little initial stability because it heels over in even light winds. That doesn’t mean it tips over, but it is relatively easy to make heel. 

A catamaran, on the other hand, has very high initial stability. It resists the heel and remains level. Designers call this type of stability form stability.

There is also secondary stability, or ultimate stability. This is how resistant the boat is to a total capsize. Monohull sailboats have an immense amount of ballast low in their keels, which means they have very high ultimate stability. A narrow monohull has low form stability but very high ultimate stability. A sailor would likely describe this boat as “tender,” but they would never doubt its ability to right itself after a knock-down or capsize.

On the other hand, the catamaran has extremely high form stability, but once the boat heels, it has little ultimate stability. In other words, beyond a certain point, there is nothing to prevent it from capsizing. 

Both catamarans and modern monohulls’ hull shapes use their beams to reduce the amount of ballast and weight . A lighter boat can sail fast, but to make it more stable, naval architects increase the beam to increase the form stability.

If you’d like to know more about how stable a hull is, you’ll want to learn about the Gz Curve , which is the mathematical calculation you can make based on a hull’s form and ultimate stabilities. 

How does a lowly sailor make heads or tails out of this? You don’t have to be a naval architect when comparing different designs to understand the basics. Two ratios can help you predict how stable a design will be .

The first is the displacement to length ratio . The formula to calculate it is D / (0.01L)^3 , where D is displacement in tons and L is waterline length in feet. But most sailboat specifications, like those found on  sailboatdata.com , list the D/L Ratio.

This ratio helps understand how heavy a boat is for its length. Heavier boats must move more water to make way, so a heavy boat is more likely to be slower. But, for the ocean-going cruiser, a heavy boat means a stable boat that requires much force to jostle or toss about. A light displacement boat might pound in a seaway, and a heavy one is likely to provide a softer ride.

The second ratio of interest is the sail area to displacement ratio. To calculate, take SA / (D)^0.67 , where SA is the sail area in square feet and D is displacement in cubic feet. Again, many online sites provide the ratio calculated for specific makes and models.

This ratio tells you how much power a boat has. A lower ratio means that the boat doesn’t have much power to move its weight, while a bigger number means it has more “get up and go.” Of course, if you really want to sail fast, you’d want the boat to have a low displacement/length and a high sail area/displacement. 

Multihull Sailboat Hulls

Multihull sailboats are more popular than ever before. While many people quote catamaran speed as their primary interest, the fact is that multihulls have a lot to offer cruising and traveling boaters. These vessels are not limited to coastal cruising, as was once believed. Most sizable cats and trimarans are ocean certified.

Both catamarans and trimaran hull designs allow for fast sailing. Their wide beam allows them to sail flat while having extreme form stability. 

Catamarans have two hulls connected by a large bridge deck. The best part for cruisers is that their big surface area is full of living space. The bridge deck usually features large, open cockpits with connecting salons. Wrap around windows let in tons of light and fresh air.

Trimarans are basically monohulls with an outrigger hull on each side. Their designs are generally less spacious than catamarans, but they sail even faster. In addition, the outer hulls eliminate the need for heavy ballast, significantly reducing the wetted area of the hulls. 

Boaters and cruising sailors don’t need to be experts in yacht design, but having a rough understanding of the basics can help you pick the right boat. Boat design is a series of compromises, and knowing the ones that designers and builders take will help you understand what the boat is for and how it should be used. 

What is the most efficient boat hull design?

The most efficient hull design is the displacement hull. This type of boat sits low in the water and pushes the water out of its way. It is limited to its designed hull speed, a factor of its length. But cruising at hull speed or less requires very little energy and can be done very efficiently. 

By way of example, most sailboats have very small engines. A typical 40-foot sailboat has a 50 horsepower motor that burns around one gallon of diesel every hour. In contrast, a 40-foot planing speedboat may have 1,000 horsepower (or more). Its multiple motors would likely be consuming more than 100 gallons per hour (or more). Using these rough numbers, the sailboat achieves about 8 miles per gallon, while the speedboat gets around 2 mpg.

What are sail boat hulls made of?

Nearly all modern sailboats are made of fiberglass. 

Traditionally, boats were made of wood, and many traditional vessels still are today. There are also metal boats made of steel or aluminum, but these designs are less common. Metal boats are more common in expedition yachts or those used in high-latitude sailing.

Matt has been boating around Florida for over 25 years in everything from small powerboats to large cruising catamarans. He currently lives aboard a 38-foot Cabo Rico sailboat with his wife Lucy and adventure dog Chelsea. Together, they cruise between winters in The Bahamas and summers in the Chesapeake Bay.

Unveiling 13 Sailboat Hulls: Navigate Waves Like a Pro

Ever wondered why sailboats cut through waves like butter? Dive in and discover 13 hulls that make your sea adventures unforgettable!

A sailboat is only as good as the hull, and it ultimately determines how well you can navigate through the water. The hull of a boat plays a massive role in what type of water you can sail through and your overall speed. So, what are the types of sailboat hulls and how are they different?

The main types of sailboat hulls are planing hulls, displacement hulls, and semi-displacement hulls which offer the best of both worlds. Multi-hull boats such as pontoons and tritoons have even weight distribution and can handle rough waters. Flat-bottom sailboats are the most stable, but they don’t work well in deep waters.

Catamarans and trimarans feature space between each hull which adds stability and protects the deck from water. Choosing a sailboat with the ideal hull for you is essential in finding one that you will keep for years to come. Follow along as we explore the different types of sailboats and see what makes them unique.

Sailboat Hull Types

There are 13 types of sailboat hulls ranging from bilge keels and fin keels to displacement hulls. The ideal sailboat hull varies for you based on factors such as what type of water you’re in and weather conditions.  For example, some hulls, such as flat bottoms, are ideal for shallow and smooth water .

On the other hand, semi-displacement hulls are perfect for every application whether you’re in shallow or deep water. Let’s take a look at the different types of sailboat hulls and see how they differ.

1. Planing Hull

Sail Magazine

Planing hulls are the first of the three major categories of sailboat hulls. You can find planning hulls with 2 different shapes: v-shaped and flat-bottom hulls.  Planing hulls sit on top of the water and don’t sink deep like other types .

Many boaters and enthusiasts prefer this design because of how well a boat with planning hulls can move across the water.  Most fishing sailboats feature planning hulls because of how smoothly they can glide on the surface whether you’re on an ocean or lake . Boats with planing hulls can also move faster than other types of boats, and that is their main appeal.

2. Displacement Hull

Improve Sailing

Boats with displacement hulls are slower than boats with planing hulls, but that doesn’t mean that they’re bad . While they don’t move as fast, many boaters consider displacement sailboat hulls to be much smoother.  This comes in handy if you live in an area with rough waters and strong winds .

A displacement hull is rounded instead of flat at the bottom like a planning hull. The main downside to sailboats with displacement hulls is that you will likely use more fuel than you normally would. That is because the shape isn’t as aerodynamic and you’ll need the extra engine power to move through the water.

3. Semi-Displacement Hull

Seattle Yachts

As the name suggests, semi-displacement hulls combine the best of both worlds between planing and displacement hulls. A semi-displacement hull is both flat and rounded at certain parts providing both speed and stability.  They aren’t as fast as a flatter planing hull, but they’re faster than a standard displacement hull .

The unique shape of semi-displacement hulls helps reduce resistance. This alone can help take a load off of your engine and let it work optimally under most water conditions. You also get the benefit of extra storage in most cases because boats with semi-displacement hulls have storage-friendly floor plans.

4. Multi-Hull

Multi-hull boats, such as pontoons and tritoons, are smooth and easy to sail . There are separate hulls on each side of the boat that provide stability and let you power through rough waters. On a pontoon, each hull is a large tube filled with air known as a toon.

Multi-hull boats generally sit higher above the water than most boats because of their unique design. They are popular for fishing, cruising, and entertainment.  A key downside to multi-hull boats is that they typically operate loudly because the propeller may not be fully submerged in the water .

5. Monohull

The vast majority of sailboats that you will come across have a monohull . They are easy to sail, transport, and even dock at a marina because of their simple design. As the name suggests, they only feature one hull and are suitable for calm and rough water.

You can save money with a monohull sailboat compared to a multi-hull sailboat like a catamaran. A key advantage to monohull sailboats is that they are incredibly safe. You don’t have to worry about capsizing as much as you would with a multi-hull sailboat.

6. Flat-Bottom

Sailing Magazine

Flat-bottom hulls are essentially the simplest form of planning hulls. You can find flat-bottom hulls on the majority of sailing dinghies, and that’s what they are most suitable for.  They aren’t ideal for oceans or rough waters, but flat-bottom sailboats are perfect for rivers and lakes .

Rowboats also feature flat-bottom hulls, and they aren’t known for being particularly smooth. You get less precision with flat-bottom hulls, especially if you have to steer and turn unexpectedly. Otherwise, you won’t have trouble with a flat-bottom sailboat hull if you go out for a quick fishing trip in an area you’re familiar with that has smooth waters.

7. Catamarans

Catamarans feature a unique take on the traditional multi-hull design . They feature 2 hulls with space between them that usually features a deck. Sometimes, the space between each hull features a trampoline or even a small pool or tub.

They aren’t suitable liveaboard boats, but they are perfect for taking out for a day of cruising and fishing. Catamarans are as smooth as possible, but that sometimes comes at the cost of speed. However, they often feature multiple engines which can consume a lot of fuel but also put less strain on each engine.

8. Trimaran

Quiberon 24 Television / Youtube

Trimarans are essentially a step up from catamarans because they feature a third hull. Many people prefer the stability that trimarans offer over catamarans.  The extra stability also helps increase the speed that you can cruise at with a trimaran .

They are also safer than catamarans because the multi-hull design allows for perfect weight distribution. That’s not to say that catamarans are unsafe, but the extra hull that trimarans feature is more durable.  Most of the weight lies on the center hull and the rest is distributed between the 2 outer hulls .

BlueWater Yacht Sales

Deep v hulls are another type of planing hull, but they are less common than some of the other varieties. Granted, high-end modern powerboats often feature a deep v hull, but they come at a high price.  The v design allows the hull to cut into the water easily which lets you easily control the boat in any type of water condition .

Generally, the deadrise goes between 21 and 26 degrees for a deep v hull which is ideal for many boaters. However, boats with deep v hulls are primarily geared toward anglers and aren’t ideal for cruising at high speeds. Deep v hulls are usually made out of aluminum which means that they will be loud as they glide across the water.

10. Bilge Keel

Bilge keel hulls are specifically designed to reduce the risk of a boat rolling . The strange shape of a bilge keel hull lets it stand upright whether you’re on the shore or in shallow waters. This makes them much easier to maintain than many other types of boats.

The bottom of a bilge keel hull features multiple fins in a row that helps ensure a smooth ride. They never feature more than 2 keels which means that they have a shallow draft and you can easily beach them. The one downside to sailboats with a bilge keel hull is that they are difficult to transport to a port because of the bottom.

11. Bulb Keel

Bulb keel sailboats feature a teardrop-shaped ballast that increases the boat’s stability.  They are even faster than bilge keel sailboats because of how hydrodynamic they are . Unlike some types of hulls, a bulb keel works just as well on the sea as it does on lakes and rivers.

They feature incredible weight distribution because of the inclusion of an extra ballast. However, you have to be careful with bulb keel sailboats in shallow waters near the shore. They are more susceptible to damage at the bottom so they can be difficult to bring to shore and require precision.

12. Fin Keel

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Unlike bulb keel and bilge keel hulls, fin keel sailboats are perfect for raising . Fin keel hulls improve the draft of a sailboat which comes in handy when you want to reach high speeds. Some sailors use fin keel sailboats to travel long distances across the water, especially if the weather is in their favor.

They are a perfect happy medium between flat and round-bottomed hulls offering the best of both worlds.  Fin keel sailboats are also quite comfortable because of the unique bottom shape that can easily handle choppy waters . With that said, they aren’t ideal for beginners because they can be difficult to steer compared to standard flat-bottom hulls if you are inexperienced.

13. Cathedral Hull

Jeff Clark / YouTube

Cathedral hulls get their name from their appearance which is similar to that of a classic cathedral. The unique appearance is one of the biggest benefits of cathedral hulls because the whole boat takes on that shape. They feature sharp bows and high sterns that are immediately recognizable.

With that said, cathedral-hull sailboats can be difficult to steer compared to flat-bottom or rounded hulls because of their bulky shape . You get plenty of storage with cathedral hulls which makes them perfect for long day trips with many people. They are incredibly stable because of the wide beams and wide berth, so there isn’t a serious risk of capsizing as long as you pack your cargo well.

What Type of Hull is Best For Rough Waters?

Any type of boat with a v-shaped hull is best for rough waters. Whether it’s a deep v or shallow v, this hull design makes it easy to cut through rough water without getting too much on your deck.  The last thing that you want is to go through rough waters and take on excess water weight onboard .

They are specifically designed to glide across the water without sinking low which is necessary for choppy waters. Boats with v-shaped hulls also often come with high-performance engines, so they offer the best of both worlds.  Generally, deep v hulls are the most precise and smoothest when it comes to rough waters .

They are perfect for keeping course which is essential if you’re in rough waters that can kick you off of your path. You can find many deep v hulls that are made out of fiberglass which is incredibly durable and withstand water exposure. Fiberglass v-shaped hulls are also easy to repair either by yourself or at a professional shop at a low cost.

What is The Most Stable Hull Design?

Flat-bottom hull sailboats have the most stable design for shallow water and multi-hull boats are the most stable in deep water. The inclusion of multiple hulls adds stability in deep water that prevents water from landing on the deck. This can save you expensive repairs and can also prevent your sailboat from capsizing.

Pontoons and tritoons are multi-hull boats and they are specifically popular because of their stability.  You can’t find a more stable design than a flat-bottom hull if you plan to cruise in shallow waters . Flat-bottomed hulls are also typically the fastest when you aren’t far from shore, especially if you are in smooth waters.

The box shape of flat-bottomed hulls is conducive to gliding across shallow water. However, they struggle to ride across waves and choppy waters because of the wide surface area. Multi-hull boats such as pontoons and tritoons are the best option if you plan to take your boat out to lakes, rivers, and oceans because they thrive in any scenario.

What is Better Flat Bottom or V-Hull?

Flat-bottom boats are better than v-hull boats for most uses, but v-hulls are better in choppy and deep waters. You can get by with a flat bottom in oceans and lakes alike, but they don’t always do well in deep water.  Conversely, v-hull boats can tear through rough and wavey water even at steep depths .

V-hull boats don’t do well in shallow waters and you are more likely to get stuck than you would be with a flat-bottom boat. Of course, you can always have someone push from behind when you depart, but that doesn’t help much when you return to shore.  V-hull boats are the better option for deep waters, however, even if you are in rough water .

Flat-bottom boats take on more water than v-hull boats unless you stay in calm waters. It’s always worth choosing a boat that won’t take on water that will weigh it down. However, if you’re looking for a reliable boat with a high capacity, then I would recommend looking into v-hull boats.

What Type of Hull Cuts Through Water?

Displacement hulls are the best at cutting through the water, especially when compared to planing hulls. They don’t rely on a powerful engine to cut through the water because of their design. Displacement hulls displace water once you lower them in from the shore.

This displacement isn’t ideal for speed, but it is perfect for rough waters and strong winds.  You can take sailboats with displacement hulls out on the ocean without having to worry about waves . They also work well in freshwater, but they are less necessary because of the lack of waves compared to the ocean.

Otherwise, you can get the best of both worlds with a semi-displacement hull . They aren’t quite as precise as displacement hulls, but they are better at navigating choppy waters than planing hulls. You sacrifice a little bit of speed, but the shape of a boat with a displacement hull lets you power through waves without veering off of your path.

How Long Do Sailboat Hulls Last?

Sailboat hulls last for an average of 15 years, but many of them can last for 20 years or longer. It ultimately depends on how well you maintain them and how often they are in the water.  For example, a sailboat that you always keep in the water and rarely store in a dry place may need hull repairs and replacement much sooner .

Sailboat hulls are susceptible to algae damage, and that is more likely if you always keep them in the water. Cleaning the hull of a boat is essential to protect them from algae and examine them for potential damage.  Fiberglass is the best material for a boat hull, even compared to aluminum which was the standard for years .

Fiberglass hulls can last for up to 50 years or more with regular cleaning and maintenance. A sailboat’s hull won’t last as long if it suffers damage neglecting maintenance or hits the shore too fast. The best way to increase the longevity of your sailboat is to take it out of the water every once in a while and scrub the hull to remove algae.

How Do You Inspect a Sailboat Hull?

The best way to inspect a sailboat hull is to take it out of the water and clean it . You can easily inspect a sailboat’s hull if it is clean and dry, or else you will mix cracks and dents. Cracks are the most important thing to look out for because it’s best to catch them early on.

You should be concerned if you come across cracks because they can eventually worse and threaten your boat’s structural integrity. This is especially true if you have a sailboat with an aluminum hull that you regularly take out onto saltwater.  Aluminum can eventually break down in saltwater so it’s important to inspect it regularly, especially after 10 years or more .

The hull is the first part of a boat that you should inspect because hull damage can cause a boat to sink. Always inspect your boat’s hull if you sail too fast in shallow water because that is when you risk the most trouble. Clean and dry your boat’s hull, then follow along it closely to look for spots that don’t glisten as much. This will indicate a weak point, scratch, tear, or dent.

Fastest Sailboat Hull Design

Multi-hull, trimarans, and flat-bottom boats feature the fastest sailboat hull designs . They are hydrodynamic which lets them glide through the water with minimal resistance. Trimarans move incredibly fast, especially in salt water, as long as they aren’t weighed down with too much cargo.

Careful packing reduces the necessity to haul less cargo because trimarans have incredible weight distribution. However, factors such as water conditions and what type of body of water you are on ultimately play a huge role.  Boats move up to 2% faster when in saltwater than in freshwater no matter which type of sailboat hull design you have .

Other factors such as your boat’s capacity and how much cargo you are carrying make a huge difference as well. Any type of boat with a planing hull is a safe bet if you want to move quickly through the water. Avoid sailboats with a displacement hull if you value speed because they often move the slowest.

So, What Are the Types of Sailboat Hulls?

The three main types of sailboat hulls are planing hulls, displacement hulls, and semi-displacement hulls.  Bilge keel, bulb keel, and fin keel hulls are similar but have different practical applications between freshwater and saltwater . Trimarans and catamarans feature sturdy hulls that are highly regarded for their even weight distribution and roomy storage.

Multi-hull boats such as pontoons and tritoons sit above the water and can withstand rough waters because of how high they sit. Displacement hulls are the best option if you need to cut through choppy waters and maintain your routing. Otherwise, consider a flat-bottomed hull if you primarily stay in shallow water because of how stable they are.

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What Type Of Hull Do Cruising Sailboats Have?

Last Updated by

Jacob Collier

August 30, 2022

The hull is an important component of any sailboat, especially for cruising. This is why it is important to know what type of hulls cruising sailboats have.

There are basically two types of hulls that cruising sailboats have – monohulls and multi-hulls. It is always best to choose a hull that has been designed for good directional stability and with a high load capacity, which makes it easier to load up more food and water for longer weekend trips. 

While there are other factors to consider when choosing a cruising sailboat for long trips, these two have to be the most important features to consider to make sure that you're safe while out on the water.

As experienced sailors, we know our ways around various kinds of boats and their components. The hull is an incredibly important part of the boat, and as such, you need to be well-informed before you choose a boat for yourself. Without further ado, let's get started.

Table of contents

‍ Importance of a Hull

If you've ever been on a sailboat or any other type of boat, the hull is one of the first things you'll notice, even if you didn't realize it. It is that section of a sailboat that's on top of and in the water while sailing. The bottom half of the hull is where you'll also find the rudder and the keel.

It goes without saying that new boaters will better grasp how a sailboat behaves while out at sea if they are aware and know more about the type of hull it has. In short, the main function of a hull is to keep the entire sailboat afloat. But there's also another crucial function of the sailboat's hull, which is to provide the least amount of resistance to the water as the sailboat is being driven forward.

Sailboat hulls come in multiple types and styles, and beginners need to educate themselves on these different options, especially when choosing a cruising sailboat. For instance, hulls can be found in two types: monohulls and multi-hulls. And we're going to look at both types now:

Sailing Monohulls

Monohulls come in various shapes and sizes. While there are quite a few types of monohulls, not all are ideal for cruising. For instance, the fin keel hull is a popular sight on racing boats, but it is also ideal for coastal cruising. The best way to identify a fin keel sailing hull is by knowing that it looks similar to a centerboard, but extends all the way out from the hull's base.

The bilge keel hull enhances motion comfort and minimizes the boat's draft, making it a great option for cruising.

The semi-displacement hull is one of the go-to choices for bluewater cruising, and for a good reason. This type of hull features a deep, long keel that goes from the center of the hull to the back of the rudder. This type of hull is found in many classic cruising sailboats mainly because there are many advantages of having this hull design. For instance, the shape of the semi-displacement hull offers far better stability as compared to other boats. You also get an extremely low center of gravity, which keeps the sailboat nicely balanced while cruising.

Sailing Multihulls

It wouldn't be wrong to say that this design makes up for a large portion of modern-day sailboats. One of the reasons for this is that multihull sailboats tend to have more cabin space and a large pilothouse along with a full-size hull for superior stability while on the water. This results in unmatched motion comfort and also gives the boaters the ability to reach higher speeds, which is great for cruising.

When looking for a cruising sailboat, a multi-hull is really what you are looking for. However, these types of sailboats come in two variants: the catamaran and the trimaran.

Catamaran vs. Trimaran

A catamaran is the first choice for many avid boaters who are looking for a reliable cruising boat. A catamaran has two hulls rather than just one, and both hulls are the exact same size. One of the reasons why many folks choose the catamaran is that, unlike the monohull, the catamaran gets its spacious design from the width instead of the length of the design. This is why a 30-foot cat usually has far more interior space as compared to a 30-foot monohull.

While these boats are great for cruising, the only downside is that you are going to need two standard dock spaces rather than just one. That being said, catamarans are great at sea because the hull design means that they do not heel over in the same way that monohulls do. This makes them far more comfortable while cruising.

When it comes to the trimaran, it follows the basic design principles of its cousin, the catamaran, but it has an added hull (or third hull). This means that the trimaran has three hulls, with the center one being the longest of the three. This third hull is effectively the living space inside any given trimaran.

Having three hulls means you get far more stability while cruising compared to both monohulls and catamarans. However, there is one drawback of the trimaran, which often results in boating enthusiasts turning towards the trusty catamaran instead, which is the price. Because of the added hull, trimarans tend to cost more than catamarans or monohulls. However, if you have the budget for it, land ahoy!

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Born into a family of sailing enthusiasts, words like “ballast” and “jibing” were often a part of dinner conversations. These days Jacob sails a Hallberg-Rassy 44, having covered almost 6000 NM. While he’s made several voyages, his favorite one is the trip from California to Hawaii as it was his first fully independent voyage.

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

How hull shape affects comfort at sea

• julianwolfram
• September 15, 2021

Understanding how your hull shape responds to waves will keep you and your crew safe and comfortable in a blow, says Julian Wolfram

Understanding how your hull shape responds to waves will keep you and your crew safe and comfortable. Credit: Richard Langdon

There are many desirable attributes sailors want in their cruising yacht.

Julian Wolfram is a physicist, naval architect, former professor of ocean engineering at Heriot-Watt in Edinburgh and a Yachtmaster Offshore who has cruised and raced for 45 years

Stability is obviously a crucial factor, but there are other important factors that should be considered when judging a sailing yacht and the balance of these will depend on the type of cruising envisaged and whether there may be some club racing involved.

Comfort, or seakindliness , is high on many people’s list and a boat that bounces around or slams in a choppy sea is generally shunned by all except hardened racers who will put up with any discomfort in the pursuit of speed.

However, most sailors likes to sail and a boat that can’t maintain a reasonable speed in light winds and frequently requires the use of the engine is also undesirable.

When the wind picks up a bit, a yacht that responds with a good turn of speed is a delight and can make the difference between arriving in daylight and tying up in the dark after a long passage.

A traditional long-keel working boat style cutter – Heard 35. Credit: Graham Snook

Finally, there is course-keeping and manoeuvrability .

A yacht where the helm can be left unattended for a minute or two can be a godsend to a short-handed crew , but the same crew will welcome good manoeuvrability when going into a crowded harbour or marina.

A yacht regarded as being ‘well-found’ is usually a boat that responds slowly and gently to the waves and doesn’t slam when sailing or motor-sailing up wind in a bit of sea, but she may not be the fastest boat out of the blocks.

Comfort depends on low accelerations, and research has shown that the travelling public feel ‘general discomfort’ when accelerations exceed 0.2g (more than 20% of the acceleration due to gravity).

A medium displacement fin and skeg sloop – Hallberg Rassy 352. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

To put this in context, the acceleration at the top of a big, very steep wave can reach 0.5g.

There are international standards on comfort, based on acceleration figures, that have to be met by operators of public transport systems and these are used in the design of manned and unmanned rail and road vehicles.

Whilst we can maintain the smoothness of rails and roads you can’t do the same for the sea, so ferries have ‘operability criteria’ that limit the sea conditions in which they can operate.

Of course bigger vessels are able to operate in more severe conditions than smaller ones. There are also Motion Sickness Indices based on accelerations that predict the number of passengers likely to be ill.

When it comes to small yachts it’s up to the skipper and crew to decide upon the conditions in which they will stay in port.

Light displacement, modern wide hull – Pogo 10.50

This decision should depend, at least in part, on how comfortable the yacht is in a seaway.

Now the comfort of yachts of the same size can be remarkably different. Take yachts of around 35ft or 10.6m long – a common yacht length.

Three examples show how much the displacement can vary for this size of vessel. The Heard 35, a traditional long keel working boat type design, weighs 12.7 tonnes; the Hallberg Rassy 352 , with quite a long keel but separate skeg-hung rudder, weighs 6.7 tonnes; and the Pogo 10.50, which has a very modern wedge-shaped hull with a narrow but deep lifting keel and spade rudder, weighs 3.6 tonnes.

Hull shape: Rolling

Consider these three yachts moored in a line when a fat motor boat goes past with a big wake.

The heave (lifting) force produced by the waves will depend on the yachts’ waterplane area and these will all be roughly the same for all three.

So, initially, they will all experience the same heave force. Now remember Newton’s famous law: force = mass x acceleration. This can be rewritten for boats as:-

Acceleration = Force/Mass (displacement + AV M)

Of course Newton’s Law is usually applied to objects in air, and when a boat moves in water it moves the water around it as well, and this must be accounted for.

This is known as the added virtual mass (AVM) and it will be broadly similar for all these yachts when heaving, and has the beneficial effect of reducing the acceleration.

When it comes to rolling, weight is also an advantage, given careful design and a metacentric height (GM – is the distance from the centre of gravity to the point where the vertical line through the centre of buoyancy, when heeled through a small angle, intersects the centreline. It is a measure of the initial stability or stiffness of a yacht (for small angles, GM multiplied by the angle of heel gives the righting lever) that is not unnecessarily large.

Does your boat slam or hobby-horse over waves? Knowing the difference helps you decide when you’re happy to put to sea and when you’d rather wait. Credit: Richard Langdon

The sail-carrying capacity of a yacht depends on the product of its displacement and GM, so if the displacement is large the GM can be smaller.

A lower GM will lead to lower angular accelerations and a more comfortable rolling motion.

Let’s assume that all the yachts will heel to the same angle when setting full sail in a light breeze on a close reach.

The Heard sets 92 sq. m, with its topsail up, the Hallberg Rassy 64 sq. m and the Pogo 71 sq. m which means the Heard can have a lower GM than the Hallberg Rassy and both can be lower than the Pogo.

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The result is that the Pogo 10 will accelerate nearly twice as quickly as the Heard 35 and about 30% more quickly than the HR352.

So the Pogo 10 motion will be lively whereas the Heard 35 will respond slowly and the HR352 will be somewhere in the middle.

A single wave breaking against the side of the hull will be more noticeable jerk in the Pogo 10 than in HR352 and less noticeable again in the Heard 35.

Interestingly the late Ed Burnett, in discussing the design for his long keeled yacht Nomad , decided against a carbon fibre mast and in favour of a wooden one so as to keep GM smaller and the rolling motion more comfortable.

Credit: Maxine Heath

The reasoning behind this decision is reflected in the diagram above, which shows the estimated roll angles and corresponding angular accelerations for our three yachts whilst on their moorings with waves on the beam.

In a harbour with a 6-knot speed limit the waves generated by passing craft will be between 2m and 6m long, enough to get resonant rolling of the Pogo 10.

But it needs a passing vessel to go at 9 knots to get the Heard 35 to roll.

More significantly, although the maximum roll angles are reasonably similar, the acceleration is much higher for the light Pogo 10.

No wonder racing crews tend to sleep ashore whenever possible. (It should be mentioned that these curves are based on simple linear theory and it is assumed the damping is the same in each case, however these approximations do not affect the broad thrust of the results.)

So in general, for a given length of boat, a greater displacement will result in a more comfortable motion in the sort of waves you might encounter in an anchorage.

Of course the bigger the boat the greater the comfort, and large vessels don’t move much when the fishing boats tear out at 0400!

Hull shape: Pitching

When sailing, of course, the sails will damp out the rolling motion but not the heaving and pitching.

The diagram below shows our yachts going into head seas at 5 knots. Here the wave height is 30cm with a wavelength of 5m.

This goes up to 1.3m when the wavelength is 35m, which is roughly what may happen when the sea rises as the wind increase to Force 6 (25 knots).

The natural period of pitching is larger for a heavy yacht and resonant pitching will occur when driving into longer and generally higher waves than for a lighter yacht.

This is the one occasion when heavy displacement can be a negative in terms of comfort.

The more symmetrical hulls normally associated with heavy displacement have less damping and tend to ‘hobby horse’ in these conditions.

However, they can drive through a short chop comfortably with small accelerations when the light boat is having a more torrid time.

Of all the yacht motions, slamming is often the one that produces the most discomfort and accelerations of over 3g have been measured by Southampton University on racing yachts going upwind.

Slamming was first studied analytically by Theodore Von Karman in connection to seaplane floats in 1929.

Von Karman studied, among other things, the vortex shedding behind slender cylinders, now known as a Karman Street, that gives rise to the strumming vibration of rigging and halyards in high winds.

He showed how important it was to have a ‘V’ shape to the bottom of a seaplane float to reduce the slamming impact on landing. Naval architects call the angle the hull makes with the horizontal at the centreline the ‘dead rise’ .

So a flat bottom has 0° dead rise.

Von Karman showed if you doubled the deadrise angle the impact force should half.

Impact pressure = 1/Tangent of deodorise angle

So, approximately if you increase the deadrise angle from 5o to 10° you halve the impact pressure and significantly reduce the slamming. (This formula doesn’t work when there is no deadrise, i.e. a flat bottom, and Von Karman produced a more complex analysis for this case).

Unfortunately, a trend was started in the 1970s to give sailing yachts flat-bottom bows following the introduction of the International Offshore Rating rule.

The rule wanted to get an estimate of displacement for each yacht without actually weighing it. That was considered too difficult at the time.

So they introduced a complex series of measurements to various points around the hull beneath the waterline including some at the bow.

However, yacht designers soon started to distort the hull shape at the measurement points to kid the rule that a light hull was actually heavier, which gave the yacht a better handicap than would otherwise be the case.

The diagram above shows what was typically done in the bow region to get a lighter boat with lower wetted surface area.

My first personal experience of this trend came in the 1980s when I changed my Trapper 500 for a Westerly Fulmar.

The Fulmar was quicker and had much better accommodation, but it was much more prone to slamming.

A Trapper 500 with V-shaped bow sections

I remember motor-sailing, to catch a tide, down the Irish coast into a short chop when it seemed to slam on every other wave.

The Trapper, on the other hand, rarely slammed even when my kids decided to take a shortcut through overfalls at the top of Skye while I was having an off-watch nap below – it was the pitching that woke me, not any slamming.

The photos show clearly the difference in bow shape.

A ‘V’ or well-rounded bow shape is the best to avoid slamming and if there is any flat area near the bow it should be small to ensure the deceleration on a slamming impact is minimised.

The Westerly Fulmar has a flattened section aft of the bow

If you look at lifeboats and RIBs you will see they have deadrise angles of at least 20o, even at the stern.

Going at high speed in a flat-bottom boat through a steep chop can be an ankle-shattering experience!

Draw a chalk line perpendicular to the centre line and view from ahead to get a sense of your boat’s boat sections. Credit: Julian Woolfram

Drawing a chalk line around the hull mid way between the bow and the keel from the waterline on one side to the waterline on the other side and viewing from the bow will give a good impression of how seakindly, or otherwise, the bow is.

If you have the body plan for the hull look at the shape of the sections near the bow.

Hull shape: Wave slap

Now look at the stern, if it is wide and rises at a shallow angle through the waterline to accommodate a spacious aft cabin, it will probably suffer from ‘wave slap’.

Ideally the angle should be about 17o.

Much steeper, especially on a wide stern, and water flow separation will increase drag; much shallower and there will be wave slap (see below).

I watched a fat little fishing boat going out at a fair lick from an inner berth in Le Crouesty marina last year and nearly half the sailing yacht sterns it passed were slapped on their undersides by its wake.

Not a great way to wake up (excuse the pun) in your sumptuous aft cabin at 0530.

Above and below decks

The other factor to consider in how your crew will experience the seakindliness of any boat is where they are on the boat.

We all know that sleeping in the bow cabin at sea can be like a fairground ride compared to the saloon.

A good sea boat will have this factored into its cockpit and accommodation arrangement, with everything that will be used at sea in the middle third of the boat’s length – heads, chart table, galley and sea berths all need to be here, close to the point of minimum motion just aft of amidships and close to the waterline (see below).

The same is true on deck.

Ideally the helmsman and crew should be able to operate the boat from the forward part of the cockpit and not have to go forward of the mast, or to be perched right at the stern.

While many larger boats, and some boats as small as 30ft, now have twin wheels shoved out to the aft quarters to create more cockpit space and a better view forward, this isn’t the most comfortable place to be.

Tiller steering on small boats is no bad thing as it allows the helm to be much further forward, where there is less motion and more shelter.

Seaberths, galley heads and chart table in the middle third of the boat provide more comfort at sea. Credit: Graham Snook

However, another person’s ideal sea boat may be very different to mine.

It’s just important to understand the difference that their design makes to the conditions you are happy to set out in, understanding when it’s going to be uncomfortable, and how to handle your boat when the wind does get up.

Sailboat Parts Explained: Illustrated Guide (with Diagrams)

When you first get into sailing, there are a lot of sailboat parts to learn. Scouting for a good guide to all the parts, I couldn't find any, so I wrote one myself.

Below, I'll go over each different sailboat part. And I mean each and every one of them. I'll walk you through them one by one, and explain each part's function. I've also made sure to add good illustrations and clear diagrams.

This article is a great reference for beginners and experienced sailors alike. It's a great starting point, but also a great reference manual. Let's kick off with a quick general overview of the different sailboat parts.

General Overview

The different segments

You can divide up a sailboat in four general segments. These segments are arbitrary (I made them up) but it will help us to understand the parts more quickly. Some are super straightforward and some have a bit more ninja names.

Something like that. You can see the different segments highlighted in this diagram below:

The hull is what most people would consider 'the boat'. It's the part that provides buoyancy and carries everything else: sails, masts, rigging, and so on. Without the hull, there would be no boat. The hull can be divided into different parts: deck, keel, cabin, waterline, bilge, bow, stern, rudder, and many more.

I'll show you those specific parts later on. First, let's move on to the mast.

Sailboats Explained

The mast is the long, standing pole holding the sails. It is typically placed just off-center of a sailboat (a little bit to the front) and gives the sailboat its characteristic shape. The mast is crucial for any sailboat: without a mast, any sailboat would become just a regular boat.

I think this segment speaks mostly for itself. Most modern sailboats you see will have two sails up, but they can carry a variety of other specialty sails. And there are all kinds of sail plans out there, which determine the amount and shape of sails that are used.

The Rigging

This is probably the most complex category of all of them.

Rigging is the means with which the sails are attached to the mast. The rigging consists of all kinds of lines, cables, spars, and hardware. It's the segment with the most different parts.

The most important parts

If you learn anything from this article, here are the most important parts of any sailboat. You will find all of these parts in some shape or form on almost any sailboat.

Okay, we now have a good starting point and a good basic understanding of the different sailboat parts. It's time for the good stuff. We're going to dive into each segment in detail.

Below, I'll go over them one by one, pointing out its different parts on a diagram, listing them with a brief explanation, and showing you examples as well.

After reading this article, you'll recognize every single sailboat part and know them by name. And if you forget one, you're free to look it up in this guide.

On this page:

The hull is the heart of the boat. It's what carries everything: the mast, the sails, the rigging, the passengers. The hull is what provides the sailboat with its buoyancy, allowing it to stay afloat.

Sailboats mostly use displacement hulls, which is a shape that displaces water when moving through it. They are generally very round and use buoyancy to support its own weight. These two characteristics make sure it is a smooth ride.

There are different hull shapes that work and handle differently. If you want to learn more about them, here's the Illustrated Guide to Boat Hull Types (with 11 Examples ). But for now, all we need to know is that the hull is the rounded, floating part of any sailboat.

Instead of simply calling the different sides of a hull front, back, left and right , we use different names in sailing. Let's take a look at them.

The bow is the front part of the hull. It's simply the nautical word for 'front'. It's the pointy bit that cuts through the water. The shape of the bow determines partially how the boat handles.

The stern is the back part of the hull. It's simply the nautical word for 'back'. The shape of the stern partially determines the stability and speed of the boat. With motorboats, the stern lies deep inside the water, and the hull is flatter aft. Aft also means back. This allows it to plane, increasing the hull speed. For sailboats, stability is much more important, so the hull is rounded throughout, increasing its buoyancy and hydrodynamic properties.

The transom is the backplate of the boat's hull. It's the most aft (rear) part of the boat.

Port is the left side of a sailboat.

Starboard is the right side of a sailboat

The bilges are the part where the bottom and the sides of the hull meet. On sailboats, these are typically very round, which helps with hydrodynamics. On powerboats, they tend to have an angle.

The waterline is the point where the boat's hull meets the water. Generally, boat owners paint the waterline and use antifouling paint below it, to protect it from marine growth.

The deck is the top part of the boat's hull. In a way, it's the cap of the boat, and it holds the deck hardware and rigging.

Displacement hulls are very round and smooth, which makes them very efficient and comfortable. But it also makes them very easy to capsize: think of a canoe, for example.

The keel is a large fin that offsets the tendency to capsize by providing counterbalance. Typically, the keel carries ballast in the tip, creating a counterweight to the wind's force on the sails.

The rudder is the horizontal plate at the back of the boat that is used to steer by setting a course and maintaining it. It is connected to the helm or tiller.

Tiller or Helm

• The helm is simply the nautical term for the wheel.
• The tiller is simply the nautical term for the steering stick.

The tiller or helm is attached to the rudder and is used to steer the boat. Most smaller sailboats (below 30') have a tiller, most larger sailboats use a helm. Large ocean-going vessels tend to have two helms.

The cockpit is the recessed part in the deck where the helmsman sits or stands. It tends to have some benches. It houses the outside navigation and systems interfaces, like the compass, chartplotter, and so on. It also houses the mainsheet traveler and winches for the jib. Most boats are set up so that the entire vessel can be operated from the cockpit (hence the name). More on those different parts later.

Most larger boats have some sort of roofed part, which is called the cabin. The cabin is used as a shelter, and on cruising sailboats you'll find the galley for cooking, a bed, bath room, and so on.

The mast is the pole on a sailboat that holds the sails. Sailboats can have one or multiple masts, depending on the mast configuration. Most sailboats have only one or two masts. Three masts or more is less common.

The boom is the horizontal pole on the mast, that holds the mainsail in place.

The sails seem simple, but actually consist of many moving parts. The parts I list below work for most modern sailboats - I mean 90% of them. However, there are all sorts of specialty sails that are not included here, to keep things concise.

The mainsail is the largest sail on the largest mast. Most sailboats use a sloop rigging (just one mast with one bermuda mainsail). In that case, the main is easy to recognize. With other rig types, it gets more difficult, since there can be multiple tall masts and large sails.

If you want to take a look at the different sail plans and rig types that are out there, I suggest reading my previous guide on how to recognize any sailboat here (opens in new tab).

Sail sides:

• Leech - Leech is the name for the back side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
• Luff - Luff is the name for the front side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
• Foot - Foot is the name for the lower side of the sail, where it meets the boom.

Sail corners:

• Clew - The clew is the lower aft (back) corner of the mainsail, where the leech is connected to the foot. The clew is attached to the boom.
• Tack - The tack is the lower front corner of the mainsail
• Head - The head is the top corner of the mainsail

Battens are horizontal sail reinforcers that flatten and stiffen the sail.

Telltales are small strings that show you whether your sail trim is correct. You'll find telltales on both your jib and mainsail.

The jib is the standard sized headsail on a Bermuda Sloop rig (which is the sail plan most modern sailboats use).

As I mentioned: there are all kinds, types, and shapes of sails. For an overview of the most common sail types, check out my Guide on Sail Types here (with photos).

The rigging is what is used to attach your sails and mast to your boat. Rigging, in other words, mostly consists of all kinds of lines. Lines are just another word for ropes. Come to think of it, sailors really find all kinds of ways to complicate the word rope ...

Two types of rigging

There are two types of rigging: running and standing rigging. The difference between the two is very simple.

• The running rigging is the rigging on a sailboat that's used to operate the sails. For example, the halyard, which is used to lower and heave the mainsail.
• The standing rigging is the rigging that is used to support the mast and sail plan.

Standing Rigging

Here are the different parts that belong to the standing rigging:

• Forestay or Headstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the bow of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
• Backstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the stern of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
• Sidestay or Shroud - Line or cable that supports the mast from the sides of the boat. Most sailboats use at least two sidestays (one on each side).
• Spreader - The sidestays are spaced to steer clear from the mast using spreaders.

Running Rigging: different words for rope

Ropes play a big part in sailing, and especially in control over the sails. In sailboat jargon, we call ropes 'lines'. But there are some lines with a specific function that have a different name. I think this makes it easier to communicate with your crew: you don't have to define which line you mean. Instead, you simply shout 'mainsheet!'. Yeah, that works.

Running rigging consists of the lines, sheets, and hardware that are used to control, raise, lower, shape and manipulate the sails on a sailboat. Rigging varies for different rig types, but since most sailboats are use a sloop rig, nearly all sailboats use the following running rigging:

• Halyards -'Halyard' is simply the nautical name for lines or ropes that are used to raise and lower the mainsail. The halyard is attached to the top of the mainsail sheet, or the gaffer, which is a top spar that attaches to the mainsail. You'll find halyards on both the mainsail and jib.
• Sheets - 'Sheet' is simply the nautical term for lines or ropes that are used to set the angle of the sail.
• Mainsheet - The line, or sheet, that is used to set the angle of the mainsail. The mainsheet is attached to the Mainsheet traveler. More on that under hardware.
• Jib Sheet - The jib mostly comes with two sheets: one on each side of the mast. This prevents you from having to loosen your sheet, throwing it around the other side of the mast, and tightening it. The jib sheets are often controlled using winches (more on that under hardware).
• Cleats are small on-deck hooks that can be used to tie down sheets and lines after trimming them.
• Reefing lines - Lines that run through the mainsail, used to put a reef in the main.
• The Boom Topping Lift is a line that is attached to the aft (back) end of the boom and runs to the top of the mast. It supports the boom whenever you take down the mainsail.
• The Boom Vang is a line that places downward tension on the boom.

There are some more tensioning lines, but I'll leave them for now. I could probably do an entire guide on the different sheets on a sailboat. Who knows, perhaps I'll write it.

This is a new segment, that I didn't mention before. It's a bit of an odd duck, so I threw all sorts of stuff into this category. But they are just as important as all the other parts. Your hardware consists of cleats, winches, traveler and so on. If you don't know what all of this means, no worries: neither did I. Below, you'll find a complete overview of the different parts.

Deck Hardware

Just a brief mention of the different deck hardware parts:

• Pulpits are fenced platforms on the sailboat's stern and bow, which is why they are called the bow pulpit and stern pulpit here. They typically have a solid steel framing for safety.
• Stanchons are the standing poles supporting the lifeline , which combined for a sort of fencing around the sailboat's deck. On most sailboats, steel and steel cables are used for the stanchons and lifelines.

Mainsheet Traveler

The mainsheet traveler is a rail in the cockpit that is used to control the mainsheet. It helps to lock the mainsheet in place, fixing the mainsails angle to the wind.

If you're interested in learning more about how to use the mainsheet traveler, Matej has written a great list of tips for using your mainsheet traveler the right way . It's a good starting point for beginners.

Winches are mechanical or electronic spools that are used to easily trim lines and sheets. Most sailboats use winches to control the jib sheets. Modern large sailing yachts use electronic winches for nearly all lines. This makes it incredibly easy to trim your lines.

You'll find the compass typically in the cockpit. It's the most old-skool navigation tool out there, but I'm convinced it's also one of the most reliable. In any way, it definitely is the most solid backup navigator you can get for the money.

Want to learn how to use a compass quickly and reliably? It's easy. Just read my step-by-step beginner guide on How To Use a Compass (opens in new tab .

Chartplotter

Most sailboats nowadays use, besides a compass and a map, a chartplotter. Chartplotters are GPS devices that show a map and a course. It's very similar to your normal car navigation.

Outboard motor

Most sailboats have some sort of motor to help out when there's just the slightest breeze. These engines aren't very big or powerful, and most sailboats up to 32' use an outboard motor. You'll find these at the back of the boat.

Most sailboats carry 1 - 3 anchors: one bow anchor (the main one) and two stern anchors. The last two are optional and are mostly used by bluewater cruisers.

I hope this was helpful, and that you've gained a good understanding of the different parts involved in sailing. I wanted to write a good walk-through instead of overwhelming you with lists and lists of nautical terms. I hope I've succeeded. If so, I appreciate any comments and tips below.

I've tried to be as comprehensive as possible, without getting into the real nitty gritty. That would make for a gigantic article. However, if you feel I've left something out that really should be in here, please let me know in the comments below, so I can update the article.

I own a small 20 foot yacht called a Red witch made locally back in the 70s here in Western Australia i found your article great and enjoyed reading it i know it will be a great help for me in my future leaning to sail regards John.

David Gardner

İ think this is a good explanation of the difference between a ”rope” and a ”line”:

Rope is unemployed cordage. In other words, when it is in a coil and has not been assigned a job, it is just a rope.

On the other hand, when you prepare a rope for a specific task, it becomes employed and is a line. The line is labeled by the job it performs; for example, anchor line, dock line, fender line, etc.

Hey Mr. Buckles

I am taking on new crew to race with me on my Flying Scot (19ft dingy). I find your Sailboat Parts Explained to be clear and concise. I believe it will help my new crew learn the language that we use on the boat quickly without being overwhelmed.

PS: my grandparents were from Friesland and emigrated to America.

Thank you Shawn for the well written, clear and easy to digest introductory article. Just after reading this first article I feel excited and ready to set sails and go!! LOL!! Cheers! Daniel.

steve Balog

well done, chap

Great intro. However, the overview diagram misidentifies the cockpit location. The cockpit is located aft of the helm. Your diagram points to a location to the fore of the helm.

William Thompson-Ambrose

An excellent introduction to the basic anatomy and function of the sailboat. Anyone who wants to start sailing should consider the above article before stepping aboard! Thank-you

James Huskisson

Thanks for you efforts mate. We’ve all got to start somewhere. Thanks for sharing. Hoping to my first yacht. 25ft Holland. Would love to cross the Bass Strait one day to Tasmania. 👌 Cheers mate

Alan Alexander Percy

thankyou ijust aquired my first sailboat at 66yrs of age its down at pelican point a beautifull place in virginia usa my sailboat is a redwing 30 if you are ever in the area i wouldnt mind your guidance and superior knowledge of how to sail but iam sure your fantastic article will help my sailboat is wings 30 ft

Thanks for quick refresher course. Having sailed in California for 20+ years I now live in Spain where I have to take a spanish exam for a sailboat license. Problem is, it’s only in spanish. So a lot to learn for an old guy like me.

Very comprehensive, thank you

Your article really brought all the pieces together for me today. I have been adventuring my first sailing voyage for 2 months from the Carolinas and am now in Eleuthera waiting on weather to make the Exumas!!! Great job and thanks

Helen Ballard

I’ve at last found something of an adventure to have in sailing, so I’m starting at the basics, I have done a little sailing but need more despite being over 60 life in the old dog etc, thanks for your information 😊

Barbara Scott

I don’t have a sailboat, neither do l plan to literally take to the waters. But for mental exercise, l have decided to take to sailing in my Bermuda sloop, learning what it takes to become a good sailor and run a tight ship, even if it’s just imaginary. Thank you for helping me on my journey to countless adventures and misadventures, just to keep it out of the doldrums! (I’m a 69 year old African American female who have rediscovered why l enjoyed reading The Adventures of Robert Louis Stevenson as well as his captivating description of sea, wind, sailboat,and sailor).

Great article and very good information source for a beginner like me. But I didn’t find out what I had hoped to, which is, what are all those noisy bits of kit on top of the mast? I know the one with the arrow is a weather vane, but the rest? Many thanks, Jay.

Louis Cohen

The main halyard is attached to the head of the mainsail, not the to the mainsheet. In the USA, we say gaff, not gaffer. The gaff often has its own halyard separate from the main halyard.

Other than that it’s a nice article with good diagrams.

A Girl Who Has an Open Sail Dream

Wow! That was a lot of great detail! Thank you, this is going to help me a lot on my project!

Hi, good info, do u know a book that explains all the systems on a candc 27,

Emma Delaney

As a hobbyist, I was hesitant to invest in expensive CAD software, but CADHOBBY IntelliCAD has proven to be a cost-effective alternative that delivers the same quality and performance.

https://www.cadhobby.com/

Leave a comment

You may also like, guide to understanding sail rig types (with pictures).

There are a lot of different sail rig types and it can be difficult to remember what's what. So I've come up with a system. Let me explain it in this article.

The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures)

The Illustrated Guide To Boat Hull Types (11 Examples)

How To Live On a Boat For Free: How I'd Do It

How To Live on a Sailboat: Consider These 5 Things

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• Sailing Boat Hulls

Sailing Boat Hulls

A hull is the body of a sailing boat. It provides the buoyancy that prevents the vessel from sinking.

Traditional sailboats are monohulls, but multi-hull catamarans and trimarans are becoming more and more popular.

All sailing boats have keels - it’s the backbone of the hull. Even multihulls have keels. On a sailboat the word keel is also used to refer to the area that is added to the hull to improve its lateral plane. Keels use the forward motion of the boat to generate lift. Sailboats have much larger keels than non-sailing hulls.

Most monohulls require ballast, depending on the design ballast will be 20 to 50 per cent of the displacement. The ballast is often integrated into their keels as large masses of lead or cast iron. This secures the ballast and gets it as low as possible to improve its effectiveness. A monohull keel is made effective by a combination of weight, depth and length.

A keel does not provide a stabilising effect but instead applies a capsizing force. This capsizing effect needs to be offset by hull design.

There are many types of fixed keels, including:

• Winged keels
• Bilge keels

A monohull is a type of boat having only one hull, unlike multihulled boats which can have two or more individual hulls connected to one another. This is the most common form of vessel.

Monohull boats usually rely on ballast for stability, and are sometimes called displacement hulls. This gives the monohull a degree of sluggishness, making it less manoeuvrable and reducing its speed. It also makes it more likely to sink if filled with water.

A multihull is a vessel with more than one hull. Multihulls are faster than monohulls because the absence of ballast reduces their weight. Designed to be as lightweight as possible, yet maintain structure, they are also built with flotation chambers. This means that, if every crew compartment becomes filled with water, the hull itself has enough buoyancy to keep afloat. This absence of ballast also results in a higher performance vessel, in terms of speed and manoeuvrability.

Multihulls are popular for racing and for cruising. Until the 1980s most multihull sailboats were built either by their owners or by boat builders on a semi-custom basis.

One disadvantage of a multihull is the width, especially when docking.

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The Ultimate Trawler Boat Buying Guide

I have been writing about trawlers and powerboat cruising for many years. It is both an obsession and a fascination for me, as I witness hundreds of people, mostly couples, embrace the trawler lifestyle as a healthy alternative to routine living on land. While the last several years certainly got a lot of people and families to escape from a confined existence, choosing a freer life on the water away from so many imposed restrictions, the trawler lifestyle was already alive and well in North America.

(Below: "Growler", a Custom Zimmerman 36 Trawler once owned by Bill Parlatore, founder of Passagemaker Magazine.)

What is the appeal of this lifestyle? For me, living aboard and operating trawler yachts represents a quality of life that embraces the values of self-sufficiency and independence, and adventure without sacrificing comfort. One is free to move as the mood dictates, finding a balance of nature while engaging as much—or as little—in society, careers, and other activities that compensate with convenience, glittery things, nice cars and houses, and other material things. Many come to realize at some point they are but distractions from a more grounded existence.

Operating a trawler does not demand the skills and experience required from a similar size sailboat . And it is relatively easy to learn the nuances of engine and vessel maintenance, navigation, and proper seamanship. Depending on what kind of powerboat one chooses, they can be economical to own and operate, and offer a pleasant home experience that often rivals luxury living ashore. And a point often missed when discussing this lifestyle, the skills needed to competently run a trawler offer stimulating physical and mental challenges that are immensely valuable at the stage of life when most of us pursue this life direction.

It is rewarding to gain confidence and a sense of accomplishment with every new port, every new challenge. Dealing with the vagaries of life on the water makes one stronger, more resilient, and better able to deal with just about anything life throws at us. A t-shirt captured that sentiment: “Calm seas never made a skilled sailor.”

And a final note before I begin. While we’ll look at the cost of admission into this life, most of us are at a point in life where we have more financial worth than time, so the cost of getting into this lifestyle is more than made up by a quality of life that most agree is hard to beat.

This guide to buying a trawler yacht  serves several functions, and I hope to satisfy them in the following pages. We will discuss the choices one has in the trawler market, and hopefully explain the value of each type as it relates to selecting the right boat. At the same time, I hope to underscore this discussion with a greater appreciation for what I believe is often missed. Choosing the right boat is only the beginning. There is much more to the selection process than simply choosing a layout that seems comfortable or a boat that comes with all the bells and whistles. Walking through a boat during a boat show is only the first taste of what a boat has to offer. I trust my guide will help people avoid falling in love with the wrong boat. If I am successful, we will keep such misplaced passion to a minimum.

TRAWLER BUYER'S GUIDE - TABLE OF CONTENTS

• What Is A Trawler?
• What Are The Different Types Of Trawler Boats?
• What's The Difference Between Trawlers & Cruising Boats?
• What About Catamarans?
• Hybrid & EV Powerboats
• How Many People To Take On Your Trawler?
• Where Should You Take Your Trawler?
• How Long Should You Cruise On Your Trawler?
• What Does A Trawler Boat Cost?
• Completing The Process Of Buying A Trawler

I. What is a Trawler Anyway?

I looked back at some of the references and definitions I offered over the years, as well as those presented by our editors. I keep coming back to the one that still resonates best with me, even as I look over the current field of trawlers and cruising yachts out there. Some are very similar to what was sold years ago, but not all, and each supports a lifestyle that is capable, comfortable, and relatively easy.

I am confident that, as we get ready to start 2024, the word “trawler” is best considered a metaphor for the cruising lifestyle it so well represents. Yacht brokers may disagree with me, but I stand firm. Back in the 1960s, power cruising pioneer Robert Beebe suggested that boats aren’t good for “voyaging” under power if they do not strongly resemble “true” trawlers. He referred, of course, to those husky fishing vessels that remain at sea for long periods, surviving anything the weather and sea throws at them, and safely bringing the catch and crew home when the job is done.

Today that analogy is not even remotely fitting for many powerboats that can capably make passages at sea, complete extended coastal and inland cruises, and serve as comfortable and safe homes for their owners. There has been a continuous evolution of the cruising powerboat genre for years now, and they now come in an assortment of styles, hull shapes, and sizes. And there is no better time than now to look at the field of available trawler choices.

In addition to traditional yacht designs that continue to be refined, we now also have new choices that really push the envelope beyond traditional shapes and concepts. And the introduction of powerful and reliable outboard propulsion has brought along a new category of cruising boats that simply did not exist before.

It is all very exciting. I once observed that comparing the cruising characteristics of a full displacement steel trawler to a displacement power catamaran or a larger Downeast cruiser is pure folly. Each can make a superb cruising boat for owners. Which is the better athlete: a football player, a hockey goalie, or a ballet dancer?

Once you understand the many kinds of boats on the market today, and the choices you have, given your budget and other considerations, it is important to match whatever boat you choose to your style of cruising. This is at the heart of this buyer’s guide. Yes, it is vital to know what is out there to choose from, but it is even more critical to understand your needs and what kind of boat will best fit those needs. While this may be a challenge for some, hasty mistakes can lead to broken plans, create unnecessary anxiety, and put an unfortunate end to one’s dream cruising plans. All of which is totally avoidable.

Let’s begin with a practical look at the main types of hull shapes to understand the positive and negative aspects of each as they relate to cruising. Then we’ll look into how they may fit your needs.

(Below: Trawler owners meet up during the Pacific Northwest Nordic Tug Owners Rendezvous. Also called PANNTOA .) 

II. Choices Come in All Shapes

Full Displacement

What was once the only real choice for those intending to cruise under power is the full displacement hull shape. It is the earliest form of powerboat and most commercial and fishing vessels are of this type. It is the most seaworthy and efficient hull shape. Many popular cruising boats are full displacement, such as:

• Northern Marine
• Hatteras LRC
• And dozens of custom steel and fiberglass trawlers.

These vessels travel efficiently through the water, with no unnecessary energy spent trying to lift the hull up onto the wave in front. They are well matched to lower horsepower engines, as they offer minimal resistance going through the water.

These boats are very forgiving at sea, which makes them very seaworthy. Rather than resist wave action, they give way, and roll to let the wave energy pass by rather than resist it, which keeps them safe at sea.

The full hull shape has the most volume for a given length, which translates into superior inside dimensions for accommodations, large tankage, and exceptional storage. They make fantastic liveaboard boats and for long distance cruising these small ships can carry all your stuff. Onboard weight is not an issue compared to any other type of hull shape.

(Below: A Northern Marine 57 is a good example of a full-displacement trawler yacht.)

Again, the low energy requirements to travel through the water, rather than try to get on top of it, means they are best powered by relatively small diesel engines to run at the displacement speeds within the maximum hull speed of 1.34 times the square root of the waterline length. This is Froude’s Law and is the limit of their speed potential. Combine this lower horsepower engine with huge fuel tankage and owners have the range to travel long distance. In some of these full displacement trawlers, one can make across-and-back ocean crossings, or enjoy a full year of cruising, without stopping to buy fuel.

For efficient and economical cruising, a full displacement trawler is the way to go, for many reasons. Rather than bother with the generally tedious sailboat mentality of electrical and battery load management, owners of full displacement trawlers just don’t worry about it. The boat is fitted with one, two, or even three generators that supply all the electrical power needed to run even a full suite of domestic galley appliances, HVAC, and pilothouse electronics.

Not only do these gensets make for relatively unlimited self-sufficiency whenever the trawlers remain at anchor, but the better builders take advantage of the hull volume to thoughtfully plan accommodations during construction. Generators are then strategically located to minimize noise and vibration throughout the boat. Just like being on a small ship, one is vaguely aware that a generator is running somewhere. The boat is designed and built around that concept, so there is always plenty of quiet, available electrical power. Whatever sense that one has of distant humming from running machinery, it is nothing more than evidence of shipboard activity. I have always loved the sense of independence and freedom it provides. On the right boat, it is so muted that it does not detract from the feeling of being one with nature, as when alone in a quiet anchorage tucked inside a rugged Alaskan island coastline.

Some high-end expedition trawlers go one step further. Northern Marine, for example, often designs the boat around a pair of identical 20kW generators to share generating duty. There might also be a small third unit for nighttime use when loads are much reduced. And much like the commercial and working vessels that are the heritage behind the company, nothing is hidden or tucked away. Serious business demands serious access.

(Below: The Northern Marine 57 has two 20kW generators for long-distance adventures.)

There is always a downside, of course. Full displacement boats are limited in speed, and cruising at 7-10 knots is about all one can expect no matter how much horsepower one theoretically adds. It is simply a full shape traveling in its sweet spot in the water. But in conditions where lesser yachts need to slow down to handle the rough seas, these boats just continue on at their normal cruising speed, no big deal and perfectly safe.

The other issue is that such seaworthiness comes at the expense of rolling in a seaway. Yes, it is why these boats are so safe. But it can be uncomfortable for crew, and over time can wear down even the hardiest crew.

That is why most full displacement boats have some form of stabilization. They lack sails to remain steady. These trawlers instead rely on some form of stabilizing technology, either active or passive, and they are quite effective reducing rolling at sea. Active fin stabilizers, flopperstoppers, gyrostabilizers, even flume tanks, have been used with varying degrees of success to manage the roll of a full displacement yacht. And active systems keep getting better, with more sensitive electronic controls and sensors to reduce movement. The current generation of gyro systems, such as the SeaKeeper, are proving popular in the trawler community and for good reason.

Full displacement boats are not the best for close quarter maneuvering, especially as many have a single diesel engine. Learning to drive a big displacement trawler is a worthy skill to develop as it builds confidence. One must understand the ship’s main rudder is designed and sized for optimum performance at sea, not close quarter maneuvering. That is why these boats have bow and stern thrusters. Just like every commercial ship out there. The right tools for the job.

Another potential downside of this hull shape has to do with where one cruises. These boats typically have deeper draft and so would not be ideal for shallow water cruising as one is finds in the Florida Keys, the ICW, and the Bahamas and Caribbean.

Having gone many thousands of miles on full displacement trawlers, I have great respect and appreciation of the beauty of this hull shape. Once out of sight of land, speed becomes the speed du jour, no big deal without reference on land. And a stabilized full displacement trawler is a great ride at sea, easy running and comfortable. Even in heavy weather there is generally little cause for concern…if at all.

One more comment on the speed of travel. I always found the underway travel and motion quickly settles crew into a normal routine, with everyone going about their day as if they were in a marina or back on land. Laundry gets done, writing takes place, leisurely cooking in the galley, maybe a brisket in the crockpot. There is always the need for some maintenance, catching up with cruising guides, email with family and friends, and other activities. This is in sharp contrast to traveling at speed, where the motion forces one to hold on, firmly seated at the saloon table, or wedged into a corner cushion. Baking cookies was a favorite memory and one the rest of that crew surely remembers. The boat smelled fantastic, even if I could barely keep up with the disappearing cookies off the cooling rack.

For many reasons, life on a small ship has much to recommend it.

Semi-Displacement

The other hull shape that defines the trawler style cruising boat is the semi-displacement hull. It is perfect for those who don’t need the fuel and storage capabilities of the full displacement trawler, and do not intend to spend a great deal of time making passages, cruising remote areas, or going all season without buying fuel. The semi-displacement trawler is a fabulous compromise. Designers have come up with ways to get more performance, reduce draft, and still serve as a comfortable home while traveling or living aboard.

One way to improve performance is to lose weight in the form of fuel and water tankage, reducing both the size and number of tanks in the boat. They may also cut back on some of the backup redundant equipment and tighten up accommodations. Going on a diet is definitely a path to higher performance. While those granite counters and flooring seem right at home in a full displacement trawler yacht, substituting lighter weight materials will result in a higher speed potential in a semi-displacement yacht. With less weight there is less boat in the water, less draft, wetted surface, and resistance, especially without a deep keel.

Changes to the hull shape come from modifying the typically rounded stern into a flatter hull form aft with hard chines. The flatter hull form will reach higher speeds when adding more horsepower to drive the boat up onto the leading wave. And the flatter stern adds stability, taking out some of the inherent roll associated with a full displacement trawler.

While these boats are quite happy to run along at displacement speeds, the semi-displacement cruiser can also really get up and go, if there is enough horsepower. With bigger engines pushing the boat, it can break free of the water, traveling at 12-15 knots or higher, depending on how much horsepower is in the boat.

This is by far the most popular trawler hull shape primarily for this reason. It can be powered by a variety of engines, still has good load carrying and accommodations, has reduced draft, and provides many—if not all—of the benefits of the full displacement trawler yacht.

Most trawlers in our cruising community are of the semi-displacement type, and brands like:

• Grand Banks
• Nordic Tugs
• Ocean Alexander
• American Tug
• And dozens more prove it is a wonderful all-around platform for cruising

(Interestingly, almost all the trawlers built in Asia during the 1970s and ‘80s were semi-displacement trawlers. But they were powered by low horsepower diesels, often the venerable Lehman Ford 120hp and 135hp engines, so they were priced to sell and provide the economical trawler experience to a wide range of buyers. The fact that these boats could only run at displacement speeds gave many the impression that they were full displacement trawlers, a confusion that continues to exist today.)

(Below: The Nordic Tug 40 is a good example of a semi-displacement trawler.)

The top speed of a semi-displacement trawler is limited by how much horsepower the builder reasons is sellable in the new boats. In my opinion, it was downright shameful when the management of the high-quality Grand Banks brand, the hands down bullseye of the trawler market for many years, decided at one point that all its models had to be capable of cruising speeds above 18 knots. The phenomenally successful and classic beauty of the original GB hull did not lend itself to a pair of high horsepower engines. It was painful to watch the amount of water pushed by a Grand Banks making 22 knots, made worse by the fuel burn to achieve that performance.

To some extent, larger semi-displacement trawlers also take advantage of generators to supply onboard electrical power, as there is not enough room for dozens of dedicated house batteries for the boat’s electrical needs. In most cases a running generator is not as quiet or unobtrusive as one comes to expect on a full displacement trawler, but a modern installation with underwater exhaust does much to reduce the impact of a running generator.

The benefits of the semi-displacement trawler clearly explain why it remains the most popular choice for most people. It has reasonable storage and fuel capacity, comfortable accommodations, and can run at higher speeds. All things considered, for most people it is the best package of features one looks for.

But it is not perfect. One of the disadvantages of the hull form is its less-than-ideal handling in rough seas. Some of these boats have small rudders to allow better control at higher speeds. The boat’s motion tends to lose its normal composure in rough water, when the boat must slow down, and the rudders are less effective.

(On modern boats, this is somewhat negated by stabilizers and gyrostabilizer systems. They do a remarkable job of reducing the rolling motion in these boats, and owners are more than satisfied to have motion under control on their semi-displacement trawlers.)

Owners of semi-displacement boats really appreciate being able to run faster to their next destination. The difference between eight knots and 11 knots is readily apparent when one can see the destination ahead and the crew is anxious to get there.

One of the tradeoffs of the semi-displacement trawler is that when they achieve high speed, they burn obscene amounts of fuel, and quickly. To own a large, semi-displacement trawler capable of 20+ knots is an exercise in balancing economy with distance and time. Those who don’t have the time will spend more at the fuel dock. It is just that simple.

Everything considered, the semi-displacement trawler is justifiably very popular for most cruising, even when that includes long distance travel. Flexibility is its best feature.

Big and small, fast or slow, the full displacement and semi-displacement hull shapes are what we talk about when we talk about trawlers and the trawler lifestyle. Motoryachts most often fit into the semi-displacement category, and one will find them cruising along with the trawler crowd. But the motoryacht is much better staying at a luxury marina will full shorepower and other hookups. One rarely finds motoryachts anchored out for days on end, where trawlers often spend their time. It isn’t what motoryachts are designed to do.

For many years, the cruising scene consisted of sailboats and trawlers, and that was it. Visit any popular cruising destination, from Marsh Harbour to Roche Harbor, and the anchorage and marinas were full of sailboats and trawlers. Both excel at life on the hook, and the constant scurrying of crew, dogs, provisions, and gear by speedy dinghies are as much a part of the cruising life as sundowners on the beach watching for the Green Flash.

III. Not All Cruising Powerboats Today Are Trawlers

There are two other kinds of powerboats that we find cruising in North America today. And they have really grown in popularity in recent years.

One has taken the world by storm, in my opinion. Almost every sailing couple I know who came to the Dark Side has gone in this direction, but they are certainly not the only ones who choose these boats. For many people, the lure of being on the water, even if it is only for weekends, must be satisfied in short order. People with limited time have a need for speed that full-time cruisers do not. These people want efficient, high-speed running, and it is more desirable than load-carrying ability or accommodations. Without a planing hull, they can’t go.

The planing hull quickly moves from hull speed up on top of the water. A burst of horsepower drives the boat up, and it doesn’t take as much power to stay there. It is an efficient speed machine. Some boats in our niche can really blast along in calm water, cruising efficiently at 25 knots…or higher. Some examples are:

• Nimbus Boats

A planing hull has a shallow draft, with a sharp entry and a flat, minimal underbody. This allows a planing boat to reach its destination quickly and then slow down if owners choose to gunkhole in skinny water. But watch that running gear, as there is nothing to protect the props and rudders designed for minimal drag.

This boat is best suited for those in a hurry. But they are still cruising boats, and they open up possibilities for those with only so much available time. The Great Loop becomes possible for those who can’t spare a year or more. Boaters headed to Florida for the winter and don’t have months to do the ICW. Puget Sound owners with weeks instead of months to explore the Inside Passage, or East Coast boaters who want to experience the Abacos but don’t have all winter to do so.

Get there quickly, then slow down and smell the flowers. Sounds like a plan to me.

(Below: Sidonia & Fred kept their 62-foot trawler, but purchased this Nimbus 405 to complete the Great Loop. Read their story .)

One potential disadvantage of the planing boat is that high-speed efficiency is directly tied to weight. Given that many of these boats are built with the latest infused fiberglass construction, often using high-tech cored material, the goal is to save weight where possible. Keeping weight down is important. And limited bilge and accommodations spaces don’t offer much general storage anyway.

But this is not a problem for owners not planning to live aboard. They are not spending weeks on the hook, nor are they expecting guests to accompany them on their Great Loop. They are bringing along just what they need to enjoy the boat as is, and no more. (Our recent series following a couple doing the Loop on their Nimbus 405 Coupe showed this lifestyle perfectly. A great trip on the Great Loop.)

Unfortunately, when the weather turns sour, any boat designed for efficient, high-speed running will be at a decided disadvantage when it is time to slow down, where they experience less control. Some handle this transition better than others, but generally small rudders do not have enough surface area to be effective at slow speed. But these boats are still all-around great cruising boats which explains they popularity and growing numbers out cruising. If the weather is bad, they don’t go anywhere. Their speed potential allows them to pick their travel when the weather window improves.

A relatively recent move is to power these boats with outboard engines. Using one or two large outboards (or up to four engines on some of the more extreme machines) makes a statement about using technology to advance boat design. The area in the hull usually dedicated for machinery and propulsion is now open for tanks, storage, and a more relaxed interior for accommodations.

The move to outboards eliminates the need for rudders and traditional steering systems, which removes complexity from the boats. Modern outboards are quiet and smooth, and this translates into a better running experience under way. Many find it a worthy tradeoff to the longer engine life offered by diesels. The access on outboard engines makes maintenance easier, and systems integration simplifies the boats at the same time.

Some builders tell me how easy life becomes when one can lift the engines out of the water when they are tied up in a marina. No more worries about underwater growth on running gear, eliminating corrosion issues, and fouled surfaces that require frequent cleaning.

During those times where one is living on a planing boat at anchor or without shorepower, the smaller house battery bank means one must run a generator more frequently, often several times a day. That assumes there is a genset on the boat, which is usually required if the boat has air conditioning.

The degree of self-sufficiency on a planing boat is directly tied to the need to keep things light and only having the essential systems, tankage, and accommodations. If your cruising involves staying at nice marinas with great facilities, who needs all that storage and extra staterooms? For Loopers, it offers flexibility and travel at a different level than chugging along, mile after mile, seeing the same landscape all day long.

The motion on a boat doing 20+ knots does not allow much activity on the boat and crew is restricted in what they can do while making miles to the next destination. That is not to say it isn’t thrilling to blast along, threading the needle among the San Juan Islands. Heading down Chesapeake Bay at speed is satisfying in ways that eight knots just doesn’t cut it. The same is true along Hawk Channel, Biscayne Bay, or Lake Ontario.

IV. Catamarans

The second type of cruising powerboat that does not fit the description of a trawler is the power catamaran. A somewhat fringe boat within the cruising powerboat category, power cats are nevertheless a great platform for anyone looking for a cruiser that offers space, outstanding maneuverability from widely spaced engines, and excellent shallow water cruise ability.

Power cat builders have evolved mostly from builders of sailing cats, so it is not surprising that the early boats were nothing more than sailing cats without masts. But more companies came out with boats design as powerboats. (The compromises of creating a power cat from a boat designed for sailing went away for the most part.)

Companies that offer (or did offer) power cats included:

• Fountaine Pajot

Some of these companies are no longer in business but made enough boats that they are usually available on the used market.

There is a lot to be said for a cruising catamaran. Economical cruising at 15-18 knots is the domain of the displacement catamaran, while planing cats, which are not suited for liveaboard cruising, can run quite well at 30+ knots.

The advantages of power cats include relatively shallow draft, great initial stability, and open interiors. The bridgedeck adds great living spaces, where one might find extra accommodations.

Many cats can be safely beached without a problem, which is a unique ability for any cruising boat.

(Below: Example of an Endeavor Power Catamaran.)

The economy of running a power catamaran is quite addicting. I owned a 41-foot power cat that would run along at 18 knots with hardly any wake, while getting exceptional fuel burn at that speed. The wide platform made for great living aboard, and the separation of the twin diesels, particularly when running at speed from the flybridge, seemed magical. It was quiet with lack of vibration, and quite relaxing as we reeled mile after mile on calm seas. It was a great cruising boat with outstanding maneuverability from widely spaced engines. I could literally walk the boat sideways using the two engines, while everyone on the dock assumed I used bow and stern thrusters to make it happen. (The boat had neither.)

The only issue I have with the power cat is the height of the bridgedeck between hulls. If it is too low, it can slap in head seas with an unnerving bang and motion that feels most unsettling, as if the boat is going to break. Multihull pioneer Malcom Tennant took me around several waterfront marinas in New Zealand to show me various interpretations of power catamaran bridgedeck design. When the bridgedeck nacelle stayed 36 inches or more above the water, the power cat would not slap under any conditions. The buoyancy of the hulls took over long before the bridgedeck met waves. And I reminded myself this was in New Zealand, where going to sea invariably involves rough seas and strong winds. (From my limited experience, the definition of pleasure boating in New Zealand has a decidedly different definition from anywhere else!)

While the displacement power catamaran has reasonable load carrying ability, it is generally prudent for a power cat owner to still keep an eye on weight and its distribution around the boat. While the larger power cats (one Tennant 20-meter cat comes to mind) can take 3,600 gallons of fuel for extremely long legs, cats under 48 feet are best kept light when possible.

I am quite smitten with the concept of the power cat for general cruising. I wish more builders would enter this market with well-engineered, lighter weight designs that showcase the benefits of the concept rather than simply building stable platforms that can hold a crowd. But unfortunately, heavy party barges are what one sees at the boat shows.

V. Hybrid and EV Powerboats

I suppose I would be negligent to not mention the push for electric and hybrid boats to mirror the somewhat political trend in the automotive world. To be honest, we own a Prius, but I much prefer driving my older Porsche. I also happen to like the smell of a diesel engine. In automobiles, I’m just not sold on a concept that requires such major (and overwhelmingly expensive) changes to our nation’s infrastructure.

As it relates to recreational boating, electric and hybrid power has come and gone in a variety of prototype cruisers, from Reuben Trane’s early solar catamaran to Greenline’s models of hybrid powerboats. I know the sailing community is generally united in their campaign to ditch the diesel engine, and YouTube influencers are falling all over each other trying to get the first serious system that offers a viable solution.

As well articulated by experienced broker, Seattle Yachts’ Dan Bacot, we won’t see much interest in this form of power cruising until someone builds a boat that can honestly make 100 miles in a day at six knots under electric power. That will make it feasible for the Great Loop and other cruising plans.

Until that milestone is reached (and I’m sure they will) such alternatives are just not worth serious consideration.

The Lifestyle

Now that we have looked at the various hull shapes and categories that define the trawler and other cruising boats, let’s see how to find a match from these different platforms to fit your plans.

It is important to think through this process with as much honesty as possible. It is so easy to slip into the unrealistic world of the ultimate boat. But most eventually agree these are more fantasy than anything remotely close to what any of us will do. Buying a boat that is capable of crossing oceans to reach exotic places like Tahiti is just not appropriate if you really intend to do the Great Loop in the next few years. That is also true if the idea of spending winters (or summers) in the tropics or the rugged Northwest Territories isn’t ever going to happen because you can only take a couple of weeks off at a time.

VI. How Many People Will be Aboard?

Is it just the two of you for most of the time? Will you have guests or family only occasionally, or do you expect to have others with you for most of the cruise? Families with growing children will have different needs than retired empty nesters who rarely have company.

The answer to this question will help determine the size of the boat, its layout and accommodations, and help define the boundaries of your search.

(Below: Obviously this image from the Mid-Atlantic Nordic Tug Owners Get-Together would be a little much!)

A word of advice from the stories of many cruising couples: Don’t buy a boat bigger than you need and make the assumption you will always have company to share your adventure. As I’ve heard many, many times, couples go ahead and buy a boat with multiple staterooms with the above assumption. Once they leave home and begin cruising, however, they make lots of new friends, all on their own boats. After a couple of years, they realize they don’t use those extra staterooms very often. And they can accommodate occasional family members with other arrangements, such as setting up the saloon. They eventually downsize to a smaller boat because they don’t need that extra room and a smaller boat is easier to handle and less expensive to own.

Two people can comfortably cruise on a boat that is 36 feet or so. This is certainly true for people who are down in the islands for the winter on a Monk 36, or cruising north on a Nordic Tug 37. No problem. But they are not living full time on the boat, or cruising with friends enough to require separate cabins. Both will drive up the space needs considerably. And it is not just about space. A water and holding tank large enough for two people will seem much smaller after only so many days. And I’m not talking about rationing water or limiting showers. This is cruising, after all, not minimalist camping.

A boat’s layout is as important as size, at least until one reaches the greater flexibility afforded by larger boats. There is a classic separation of living spaces in some boats, such as the Grand Banks 42 and the Selene 40. They have two nice staterooms, with the master in the stern and guest stateroom in the bow. That works great, offers privacy, and people share common spaces in the saloon and galley. Other boats group all staterooms forward, with the master and one or more guest cabins located near the bow. This is what one finds on the Nordic and American Tugs, Fleming, Krogen, Northwest Yachts, and most others. And all have proven successful, especially when extra people are family.

VII. Where are You Going?

I am not going to spend time with trawlers best suited for crossing oceans, as so few people really intend to do that these days. The world is a different place, the changing climate has more severe weather, and the relative ease of shipping one’s boat worldwide makes this a lot less desirable than it was decades ago. And a boat designed to cross the Atlantic to explore Europe is not the best type of boat for exploring Europe once you arrive, particularly if you want to head into the extensive canal systems.

Not to get off the point, and before anyone questions why I am such a fan of full displacement boats like the Northern Marine when I admit having no plan to cross oceans, let me clarify that the joy of owning such a great yacht is much more than being able to cross an ocean. All the benefits that make these great boats are just as valid for living aboard and coastal cruising, and many other adventures. One does not need to spend two weeks at sea to enjoy them.

The majority of people have plans that include the Great Loop, British Columbia and Alaska, the ICW on the East Coast, the Bahamas and the Caribbean, Mexico, the Great Lakes, Gulf of Mexico, Chesapeake Bay, Canadian Maritimes, and New England. One can spend several lifetimes exploring right here in North America. Doable, affordable, and close enough to family, friends, and support.

The best boats for many coastal and inland adventures are more about ease of operation and maneuverability, and keeping the draft down and the height within whatever restrictions exist for the chosen cruise.

It is quite possible to travel from Alaska to Maine as one big extended coastal cruise, although that would be a long trip. And all of it is within sight of land with very few and short exceptions. If you consider the new SeaPiper 35, add a truck and suitable trailer and you are good to go!

(Below: The Triangle Loop is a great trip for trawler boat owners.)

VIII. For How Long?

Which brings up how long one expects to be on the boat. Obviously, a full-time liveaboard couple will have space requirements unlike those planning a month on the boat. And the need for creature comforts is also a sliding scale, as occasional cruisers can live without comforts that would be unacceptable if the same people were to spend several months on the boat.

For example, if you use a dishwasher at home, you might be fine with hand washing dishes after each meal on the boat…for a time. But after a while that might seem too much like camping and not what you had in mind when you dreamed of cruising. The same goes for a separate shower versus the wet head found on smaller boats. (Definitely consult your spouse on these points!)

Again, I feel that 36 feet is about the minimum for full-time living aboard and cruising. Some have gone smaller, or somewhat bigger on a planing boat, but it is accepted because the duration of the planned cruise is short. The couple who did the Great Loop on their Nimbus 405 Coupe had plenty of space because they had what they needed, and nothing more. It served their needs for this trip. They take their longer cruises aboard their other boat, a 62-foot custom trawler.

Some couples expect to have the same creature comforts on their trawler as they enjoy ashore. But that usually means a generator, air conditioning, and/or a diesel furnace. While they may not know it, they also require large water tanks as they are not thinking about water management, and they want space for all the provisions and personal possessions. If they are liveaboards, where do they plan to store holiday decorations?

For most people, the length of time they expect to be aboard dictates comfort levels and determines which compromises they are willing to make.

These points also point to their style of cruising.

The diversity of cruising is its chief attraction, and each day brings something new, something different. Anchor out or stay in a marina…or even reserve a slip at a luxury marina with lots of facilities? Eat aboard or enjoy local cuisine? Wait for a perfect weather window or go no matter what? Move from one location to the next or stay in one place for a long time and take lots of small side trips?

As should be obvious, your style of cruising will have a huge impact on selecting the right boat. If you tend to be the sort who has a plan and follows the plan no matter what, then you will be far happier with a more seaworthy boat that can take whatever conditions come up each day. That is quite different from the fair-weather cruiser who waits for ideal weather and is content to wait.

If you like the idea of keeping on the move rather than staying in one place, then you will likely be more interested in the underway characteristics of the boat than one that is most livable when tied up at a marina.

Boat speed figures into this question as well. I know successful cruisers who swear the best plan is to get under way as early as possible and run the boat at speed for four or five hours. On a faster boat this gets them miles down the road, but then they stop early in the afternoon. They refuel, wash everything down and then play tourist for the rest of the afternoon. It is far more leisurely than nonstop travel. And they also take days off. Three days running, then two days off, staying put wherever they stopped. It keeps the cruise from becoming a blur.

Those who lust to spend weeks on the hook in paradise are going to be very unhappy if they must run the generator twice a day to keep the refrigerator running, and which requires them to refill their water tanks frequently. As for the holding tank, that is obvious as well.

On the flip side, if you love the energy and varied activities of resort marinas, you will be thrilled with the conveniences of an all-electric boat that relies on shorepower facilities, using the generator only when away from the dock.

IX. What Does A Trawler Boat Cost?

This is where an experienced broker can make all the difference. One can expect to pay anywhere from between several hundred thousand dollars to a couple of million to find a suitable boat. It may not be close to home, and a good broker will use the available resources to identify the right boat and then find one that fits and is in the condition one is willing to pay for.

New boat prices are high, and I don’t see that changing. Working with a broker is vital to success here, even after you have done your homework and know (or think you know) what you want. The broker will help locate boats that may be close enough to what you are looking for, and he or she may even steer you in a slightly different direction if they think it may serve you better for what you describe as your ideal trawler.

I strongly recommend buying a new or newer boat whenever possible. It just makes sense, and I would go down in size rather than get an older boat. A newer boat will be less problematic than an older boat with vintage systems, engines, wiring, plumbing, and construction. Leaks are a pain to deal with, and you are not buying a boat as a project.

Honestly, spending your time looking for discontinued parts and then repairing a boat when you and your spouse are supposed to be out cruising is no fun. It sucks. And it quickly wears down the excitement of the adventure, even if you like to tinker on the boat. And your spouse will get tired of reading books on the settee while you make another repair. This is not what you both planned. I’ve seen it over and over, enough to be 100-percent convinced.

Buy a new or newer boat and just enjoy the adventure.

Keep in mind there are other costs beyond the purchase price, and your broker will be very helpful, flushing them out and identifying some you may have missed. There is annual maintenance, for example, insurance, dockage, and the need for occasional repairs. Parts wear out, which will happen most often on an older boat. The mindset of “out of sight, out of mind” doesn’t make it go away. That hidden cutless bearing needs replacing on occasion, as do many other moving parts on a boat.

There is a ballpark figure that floats around the cruising community. Some suggest 10 percent of the cost of the boat is about right for these annual expenses. I have never verified that to be accurate with my own boats, but it is worth considering.

(Below: Currently a pre-owned Nordic Tug like this can range from $250,000 - $600,000 and more.)

X. Putting It All Together

From my experience, validated by many owners over the years, it is easy to spend too much time agonizing about what kind of boat to buy. If it allows you to enjoy your time on the water, it can be made to work. No boat is perfect. They all represent compromises in one way or another.

Besides your efforts to find the right boat for the kind of cruise you intend, there are two other key factors that contribute to a successful ownership experience. The first, and one that I have been making throughout this guide, is to buy a boat that is as new as possible, even if it means you might have to downsize a bit with your available budget. If it will work for you otherwise, but you must lose the hot tub on the flybridge, it is a worthy tradeoff. You will still have a genuine cruising boat.

The horror stories of old Asian trawlers built to low standards are now mostly irrelevant, as these examples of boats to avoid are now so old one should not even consider them. Besides, there is the reality of today’s marine insurance industry, hit by the large number of damage claims from named storms in recent years. One will find it difficult to get insurance for boats even at 20 years old, let alone 50+ years.

There is another factor that should figure into this buying equation, and it will make all the difference between wonderful and satisfying ownership and a money pit that needs continuous repair by outside services wherever one travels.

That is accessibility. If you can’t get to everything easily, things will be neglected, and system parts will wear out and break. Being able to see, touch, inspect, and take apart every major component on the boat is vital, no matter if it is a Nordic Tug, a lavish Hampton motoryacht, or an expedition trawler. It is even more important on a planing boat like the Nimbus or Back Cove, where available space is at a premium and the builder had to be creative during construction to fit it all in.

Owning a boat with a non-working stern thruster that can’t be inspected, serviced, or repaired without removing the genset shoehorned just above it would cause me great distress, to put it mildly.

If you study the differences, pros and cons, and other considerations, you will be much better equipped to step aboard boats at a boat show. All lined up with brokers standing by to answer your questions, it will feel good to examine each boat on your list to see how it feels, and whether it might fit the needs of what you hope to do. This process can take a couple of years, which is fine. In fact, I know folks now searching for their retirement trawler that is still five years away. There is nothing wrong with taking one’s time.

I would caution, however, not to take too long. Because life goes on, and things happen. Reality changes. Aging parents, volatile portfolios, world stability, and inevitable family medical issues are all things that command our attention at some point.

In addition to the above issues, it is good to remember that nothing in life remains static. When you find your plans or goals change, it is okay if that perfect boat is no longer the right choice. Edits may be needed to the original blueprint. It is very important to realize and accept this.

The notion that there is only one boat to satisfy every dream is totally wrong. But there is a boat for everyone looking to go cruising, that fits every plan, purpose, or budget.

My purpose for this guide is to help you find a boat that brings you the most fun and adventure, in comfort and safety and within your budget. Successful cruising can happen on most any boat.

The key to this adventure is to get started and go!

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Alubat [al.u.bat] noun | Aluminium Bateau | Aluminum Boat

Open House at Alubat

Join us at the Alubat boatyard in Les Sables d’Olonne, France for our Open House this coming May 31 to June 1 and get on board a new OVNI 370 and OVNI 430.

Amazing 43-ft Aluminum Sailboat

Full-time cruisers Roberta and Duca stopped by to visit us during the La Rochelle Boat Show for a tour of the NEW Ovni 430.

The ‘Small’ Huge Sailboat

Tour of the new Ovni 370 with Duca and Roberta on their YouTube channel Odd Life Crafting.

Aluminum Sailboat Misconceptions

“I have a friend, who knows a guy, who has a cousin, that bought an aluminum boat, and after a week in the marina the bottom fell out of her”.

Alubat Pricing

How Much Does a Well-Equipped Alubat Ovni Cost? Find out how we price the Ovni range of aluminum sailboats for the serious off-shore cruiser.

OVNI 490 Preview

The 490 shares some of the hallmarks of the Ovni range: shaft drive, full sailplan, centerboard, and spacious interior with a raised salon layout.

50 years of sailing excellence!

FIGARO nautisme | by François Tregouet

Half a century old and still thriving, Alubat, the Vendée-based shipyard, is not content with just being one of the world’s benchmarks in ocean cruising with its iconic Ovni yachts. Instead, with the enthusiasm of youth, it is preparing to launch three new monohulls over the next two years.

Link to read article [PDF]

STRENGTH ACROSS THE FULL RANGE OF ALUBAT Aluminum SAILBOATS

The new generation OVNI 370 with an inverted bow for improved performance and expanded the interior volume.

The new generation OVNI 430 with an inverted bow for improved performance and expanded the interior volume.

What sets the OVNI 490 apart are the protected pilot house and twin engines. 

The OVNI 450 stands out from the OVNI range and maintains a traditional cabin top styling.

Designing and building aluminum boats for blue water sailing. ​

The  Alubat shipyard  has been designing and building aluminum boats for blue water sailing since 1973. With more than 1,600 yachts built and with 50 years of expertise in metal work and carpentry, Alubat has unparalleled experience in the aluminum sailboat market.

Discover More

Aluminum is green

By having the ability to beach your boat, inspecting and servicing your yacht becomes less daunting than having to haul out.

beach your boat

Go places where other sailboats can't.

Centerboard advantages, navigate shallow water.

From the turquoise waters of the Bahamas to the Alaskan ice fields, a lifting keel gives you the peace of mind to navigate in shallow water. 

The centerboard doesn’t sacrifice performance or safety, in fact, it can enhance performance when it comes to downwind sailing. 

Another advantage of a centerboard is the expanded possibilities to find docking in marinas that would otherwise be too shallow for a fixed keel sailboat.

Without the limitations of fixed keel boats, your cruising opportunities can take you through the maze of Europe’s ancient canals and the historic North American waterways.

The centerboard can be lifted manually or by using a hydraulic system.

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VESSEL REVIEW | Sinichka – Electric commuter boats designed for Russia’s Moskva River

A series of three new electric monohull commuter ferries have already begun operational sailings on the Moskva River in the Russian capital Moscow.

Built by Russian shipyard Emperium, sister vessels Sinichka , Filka , and Presnya – all named after rivers in Moscow – are being operated by the Moscow Department of Transport and Road Infrastructure Development (Moscow Deptrans). They are the first units of a planned fleet of 20 vessels that will serve the capital city and other nearby communities. The new ferry system will be the water transport system to be operated on the Moskva River in 16 years.

Each vessel has a welded aluminium hull, an LOA of 21 metres, a beam of 6.2 metres, a draught of only 1.4 metres, a displacement of 40 tonnes, and capacity for 80 passengers plus two crewmembers. Seating is available for 42 passengers on each ferry, and the main cabins are also fitted with USB charging ports, wifi connectivity, tables, toilets, and space for bicycles and scooters. The cabin layout can be rearranged to allow the operator to adjust the distances between the seats and to install armrests of varying widths.

An open upper deck is also accessible to passengers and is the only area on each ferry where smoking is allowed.

The ferries are all of modular construction with each ferry’s wheelhouse, main cabin, and other structural elements being built as complete, separate components. This enables the ferries to be easily dismantled for transport to anywhere in Russia by rail and then quickly re-assembled within seven days.

The ferries are also ice-capable. Recently completed operational trials on the Moskva showed that the vessels can also easily navigate under mild winter conditions with broken surface ice, though year-round operations are planned for the entire fleet.

The ferries are each fitted with 500kWh lithium iron phosphate battery packs that supply power to two 134kW motors. This configuration can deliver a maximum speed of 11.8 knots, a cruising speed of just under 10 knots, and a range of 150 kilometres.

Emperium said the transfer of rotation of electric motors to the propeller is carried out by direct drive. As a propulsion installation, a pulling rotary propeller-steering column with double screws is used. The installation of double pulling screws, with similar power, allows an operator to increase the efficiency of the propulsion system to deliver a slightly higher speed or to reduce energy consumption. This arrangement also provides the ferries with enhanced manoeuvrability necessary for navigating in close quarters.

The batteries themselves have projected service lives of 10 to 12 years and are fitted with safety features such as built-in fire extinguishers and gas vents. Quick-disconnect features allow the batteries to be easily removed for replacement or maintenance.

Some of our readers have expressed disquiet at our publication of reviews and articles describing new vessels from Russia. We at Baird Maritime can understand and sympathise with those views. However, despite the behaviour of the country’s leaders, we believe that the maritime world needs to learn of the latest developments in vessel design and construction there.

Click here to read other news stories, features, opinion articles, and vessel reviews as part of this month’s Passenger Vessel Week.

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Tags: Emperium Filka Moscow Moscow Department of Transport and Road Infrastructure Development Moskva River Presnya Russia Sinichka WBW newbuild

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8 Yacht Clubs and Marinas in the Philippines to Moor Your Boat In

FoodfindsAsia.com | 8 Yacht Clubs and Marinas in the Philippines to Moor Your Boat In | Filipinos’ history as a maritime people date back to prehistoric times. In fact, the Philippines’ basic sociopolitical unit today, the barangay, traces its etymological origins to the balangay , the ancient outrigger boats that were used by precolonial Filipino communities to explore and conquer islands this side of the Pacific. As a people belonging to a seafaring culture, it’s no wonder that modern Filipinos are taking a retrospective look at their glorious past as Austronesian mariners and are developing a renewed love for the ocean and marinas as present-day yachtsmen.

Today, Philippine marinas look to accommodate more and more yachts and other pleasure watercrafts as the years go by. In 2017, an ASEAN Briefing op-ed piece named the Philippines as a country with high potential in yacht industry growth. The natural beauty of the Philippine islands and its fantastic bays, combined with a growing interest in leisurely sea travel, can explain the spike in yachting activities throughout the country.

Are you part of the demographic that’s become enamored of the yachting lifestyle? Do you want to know where in the country you can berth your watercraft? Leading sailboat and motorboat authority Europa Yachts is happy to enter the conversation, and recommends the following locations for discovering the Philippines through yachting. Here is a short list of clubs and marinas in the country, organized by island region.  

Manila Yacht Club and Marina, Manila, Metro Manila

Established in 1927, the Manila Yacht Club and Marina is one of the oldest yacht clubs in all of Asia, and is nestled in the scenic Manila Bay. It is also near other well-known landmarks in the city, such as the Cultural Center of the Philippines (CCP), the headquarters of the Philippine Navy, and the US Embassy. Facilities in the marina include a launching ramp and a fueling center, and the club itself is host to a restaurant and gorgeous function rooms. The Manila Yacht Club only welcomes visitors who arrive by boat, and it charges an initial security deposit of USD 750 upon arrival. Club membership is mandatory for medium and long-term mooring of boats.

Subic Bay Yacht Club, Zambales

The Subic Bay Yacht Club, which was founded in 1998, upholds itself as the country’s premier yacht club. It operates in the deepest bay in the country, and can host vessels well beyond 50 meters in length. Already benefitting from the innate beauty of the Zambales mountains surrounding it, the club hosts a number of other attractions, including its luxury accommodations, swimming pools, and its own movie theater, bowling alley, and nightclub. Those who venture outside of the club’s premises can also shop for well-priced imported goods at the Subic Freeport Zone, engage in water sports , or sign up for diving excursions.

Punta Fuego Yacht Club, Batangas

Peaceful Punta Fuego is a mecca for those who love the sport of sailing. As per its official website, the Punta Fuego Yacht Club aims to serve “a dynamic and vibrant community of boat enthusiasts and yacht owners.” This it does by playing host to a diverse population of watercrafts, from large catamarans and mono-hull yachts to small boats. Non-members of the club may use the berths for up to 3 weeks, and can refuel at the marina’s fueling station. The yacht club offers other amenities such as locker rooms, shower rooms, Internet facilities, a chart room, and a restaurant called Barracuda Bar, which serves delicious fares. Outside of the yachting crowd, Punta Fuego Yacht Club also caters to those wishing to celebrate weddings, conferences, and corporate events in their opulent quarters.

Puerto Galera Yacht Club, Oriental Mindoro

Further south, yachtsmen may moor at the Puerto Galera Yacht Club in Oriental Mindoro, an island location that’s home to tourist attractions like the Sabang Wreck dive site, lively beachfront resorts, and the Malasimbo Music Festival. Puerto Galera Yacht Club has been in operation for almost thirty years and lends services such as refueling provisions and yacht repairs from its marina. Boat owners also enjoy optimal convenience if mooring here, as they can also shop for spare parts in the nearby Batangas port.

Busuanga Yacht Club, Puerta del Sol Bay Marina, Palawan

Beautiful Palawan is a bucket-list destination for many, especially those who dream of cruising its crystalline waters. Accommodating the yachting community in this island province is the Busuanga Yacht Club, which promises secure mooring amidst breathtaking white-sand beaches. Here, each vessel will benefit from a typhoon-safe harbor, easy refueling, and direct access to transportation hubs like the New Busuanga Airport. Adjoining this marina is the Puerta del Sol Bay Resort, which offers luxurious accommodations to visitors. When not atop the deck of a boat, travelers can also explore the lagoons and freshwater lakes of Coron, go shipwreck diving, or relax in the hot springs of Maquinit.

Iloilo Sailing Club, Arevelo, Iloilo City, Iloilo

Iloilo Province is home to some of the country’s most beautiful old-world architecture, a flourishing ecotourism industry, and delectably fresh seafood cuisine. What will round off an unforgettable visit to Iloilo, however, is an excursion to the Iloilo Sailing Club on a leisure watercraft. The club accepts visitors and encourages membership in the case of medium and long-stay mooring. It also hosts a number of amenities and activities, including a dinghy storage, a beach bar and restaurant, and classes for those who want to learn about sailing. In recent months, the Iloilo Sailing Club has also been a convenient meet-up point for big maritime events, such as the Iloilo-Guimaras Paraw Regatta and the Seafarers’ Job Fair.

Cebu Yacht Club, Mactan Island, Cebu

The historic Mactan Island in Cebu was the site of Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan’s arrival in the Philippines. Now known as a commercial hub that hosts a prolific furniture and musical instruments industries, Mactan is also the location of the Cebu Yacht Club, an institution that is beloved by the locals. Aside from being an ideal spot to restock on much-needed fuel and supplies, the Cebu Yacht Club is also a trusted club to commission for boat repairs. There’s a good vibe in this club for everybody, as it sports both luxury accommodations and a waterfront strip of restaurants that laid-back diners can frequent. MINDANAO

Holiday Oceanview Marina, Samal Island, Davao del Norte

The Holiday Oceanview Marina is a major attraction of Samal Island in Davao del Norte Province, one that welcomes Filipino and foreign yachtsmen alike to moor within its premises. The space is quite roomy, in fact, with 56 berths that can fit vessels up to 15 meters in length. The club also has a boat ramp that can accommodate boats up to 18 meters in length. The well-guarded and weather-safe marina is a gateway to some of Mindanao’s finest attractions, such as the Pearl Farm, Hagimit Falls, and Giant Clam Sanctuary.  

There’s no better way to discover the Philippines from end to end than getting onboard a seaworthy vessel and going on a long cruise, with stops in some of the most beautiful places in the country. Find a safe harbor in any of these major clubs and marinas, and participate in the renaissance of sailing in the Philippines.

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