painting of yacht

How to Paint a Boat

Learning how to paint a boat is easy, and if you want to make your boat look like new, you'll be surprised what a fresh layer of paint can do. Proper boat maintenance  will go a long way in keeping your pride and joy looking great, but when that boat starts to appear aged, knowing how to paint a boat is the key to making it look like new again. And although painting a boat can be time-consuming and expensive, there’s no better way to improve an older boat’s appearance. While this is a rather complex process, we can boil it all down to these five basic steps.

How to Paint a Boat Step-by-Step:

• Remove all hardware (like rails, cleats, and vents) and/or any teak or wood trim on the boat.
• Repair any surface imperfections like chips, dings, or gouges.
• Prep the surface by washing, de-waxing, and thoroughly sanding it.
• Apply the primer, then the paint.
• Wax the boat from stem to stern to protect the new paint job.

Then, simply keep it clean, and rinse it thoroughly after use in saltwater. Remember, before you paint a boat always read the warning labels on all of the supplies and be sure to use the proper protective equipment.

How to Paint a Fiberglass Boat

Painting fiberglass boats isn’t really much different from painting wood boats, except for the type of paint you’ll use and a few details in the prep and application. We should note that the very best finish can be attained by professionals who spray on the paint, rather than applying it with a brush and roller. However, anyone can do a bang-up job painting a boat if they make sure the surface has been properly prepped, and take care during the application.

Paints for Fiberglass Boats

• Single-Part Enamel Paints – These paints are easiest to apply and are less expensive than some other options. However, they also are subject to UV damage over time and the gloss doesn’t tend to hold up as well over the long haul especially if it isn’t constantly waxed and maintained.
• Single-Part Polyurethane Paints – Urethane paints are also easy to apply, don’t cost nearly as much as two-part polyurethanes, and have a long-lasting gloss.
• Two-Part Polyurethane Paints – These undisputedly look best and last longest. Many people would even argue they can out-shine a boat’s original gel coat. However, they are very expensive and are more labor-intensive, as they require mixing, an epoxy primer, and specific temperature and humidity levels for application.

Whichever of these you choose, job number-one is following the manufacturer’s instructions to a tee. We can’t lay out all the details here because each paint has its own specific requirements. The bottom line, however, is that each has its own instructions that can be quite exacting. And remember that like any paint job, good prep work is the key to success. De-waxing is one of the most important factors, because even a tiny amount of wax will prevent the paint from adhering to the fiberglass. Either acetone or a dedicated wax-stripper can be used but in either case, be sure to do a thorough job.

Tips for Painting a Fiberglass Boat

• Most people will use a standard “roll and tip” method for painting large surface areas of a boat. This requires two people and both rollers and brushes. As one person rolls out the paint, another follows behind with a brush and lightly strokes across the paint to brush out the roller pattern.
• One important tip for creating the best surface is to apply multiple, thin, consistent coats, as opposed to one or two thick ones. Three coats of paint is generally considered best.
• Another important tip to keep in mind: be sure to allow the proper amount of cure-time between coats (again following the manufacturer’s recommendations). And if the work takes place outdoors keep an eye on the weather to ensure the temperature and humidity will be acceptable and consistent throughout the entire timeframe.

How to Paint a Boat Bottom

Painting a boat bottom is a completely different experience than painting the boat’s upper hull and topsides. In this case you’ll want an anti-fouling paint that prevents marine growth, and there are countless versions to choose from. Read Antifouling Paints: Which Paint is Best For Your Boat to learn more about some of the different options.

Here’s the good news: learning how to paint a boat bottom is much easier than it is for the rest of the boat, because bottom paint tends to be simpler to apply.

• If the bottom is fresh gel coat, the same sort of prep work (de-waxing and sanding) is necessary.
• If you’re applying over old bottom paint, you can skip the de-waxing process and simply sand or power wash away any old or loose paint. Also, you won’t need to roll and tip; most people skip the tip part of this equation since the bottom will be underwater anyway, and simply roll the paint right on.
• There is, however, one additional factor to applying bottom paint to a boat: you may need to properly time the boat’s launch. Some paints have a minimum dry time but a maximum time as well, and will need to be launched within a certain window.

How to Paint a Boat Hull

Painting a boat’s hullsides is usually a lot easier than painting the topsides, simply because you’re dealing with a large, smooth surface area. There will only be minimal hardware to remove (in this case you may want to simply protect it with masking tape, though this rarely provides as good a final finish), and you won’t have to worry about angled surface areas or tight corners.

There is one variable to note, however, about painting a boat hull. You will be working on a more or less vertical surface, and if you apply the paint too thickly, drips and runs will result. So it’s very important to apply the pint evenly and thinly.

How to Paint a Boat with Non-Skid

Molded fiberglass non-skid and non-slip surfaces can’t be painted the same way as the rest of your boat. It’s impossible to sand or apply paint between the tiny imprints, and even if you did paint it, it would wear unevenly as people walk across the top of the pattern without ever touching between the raised surfaces. But that doesn’t mean you can’t make that old non-skid look like new again.

• The best way to paint non-skid is to apply a textured compound. There are several on the market designed specifically to paint a boat deck. They have some sort of grit or tiny rubberized pellets mixed in with the paint, to give the boat’s deck a fresh look but still maintain its non-slip properties.
• Once again, each has its own set of specific application instructions, prep work is key, and several coats are usually necessary.
• On additional variable you need to know about is the roller; since these paints have solids mixed in, you usually need to use a roller brush specifically designed to spread them.

Yes, painting a boat is a big, time-consuming job. Sure, it requires some expense. But remember, there’s no better way to make an older boat look new again than to give it a fresh paint job.

Editor's Note: Remember that many paints, primers, and wax strippers emit chemical fumes, and sanding can also create potentially harmful conditions for both you and the environment. Before you paint a boat always read the warning labels on all of the supplies and be sure to use the proper protective equipment.

Learn More in our Boat Maintenance Guide

Looking for more on boat maintenance and upkeep? Read...

• Antifouling Paints: Which Paint is Best for Your Boat?
• Boat Storage: What Are My Options?
• How to Winterize a Boat
• Spring Start-Up Checklist

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How to Paint a Boat

Last Updated: December 22, 2023 Approved

wikiHow is a “wiki,” similar to Wikipedia, which means that many of our articles are co-written by multiple authors. To create this article, 13 people, some anonymous, worked to edit and improve it over time. There are 7 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. wikiHow marks an article as reader-approved once it receives enough positive feedback. In this case, 92% of readers who voted found the article helpful, earning it our reader-approved status. This article has been viewed 209,174 times. Learn more...

As your boat begins to crack and fade after several years in the water, you have two choices -- hire a professional boat yard to paint it again or do it yourself. Painting a boat takes a lot of time and effort, from preparing the hull to buying the paint, but anyone can do it with some simple equipment and a few open afternoons.

Prepping the Boat

• Anything you cannot remove you should cover in painter's tape to keep clean and protected.

• Generally, running your finger along the surface, top or bottom, will tell you if there is still a coating-- it feels like a candle or a freshly waxed car.
• If you are in any doubt about the coating, go over the boat again -- paint will not stick to this waxy surface, so it all needs to go.

• Make sure you fill in any holes with marine-grade epoxy, found near the marine paint in hardware and boat stores.

• If the old coat of paint is flaky or damaged you will need to strip it and sand it away entirely.
• If the old paint is a different type than the one you plan to apply (non-vinyl vs vinyl paint), then remove it entirely.
• Never use a belt sander on your boat
• Warning: wear a respirator and eye protection when sanding, as paint chips are toxic. [5] X Research source

Painting the Boat

• When available, paint your boat in a covered area.

• Two step polyurethane paint, while longer lasting, takes precise mixing and application techniques to use.
• Most gel coats, excepting expensive, high-end options, will fade in 1-2 years.

• After the first coat has dried, lightly sand the boat (300-grit sandpaper) and apply another coat. [8] X Research source

Community Q&A

• Take your time cleaning and sanding -- preparing your boat can take as much as 80% of your time, but it will lead to a better final product. Thanks Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0
• If you are uncomfortable with any part of this process, especially sanding, call a professional boatyard to get a price quote for painting. Thanks Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0

• Dust and debris while sanding can be highly toxic. Always wear protection for your eyes, nose, and mouth.

Things You'll Need

• Marine paint
• Paintbrush or roller

You Might Also Like

• ↑ http://americanboating.org/clean_boat_cleaning.asp
• ↑ http://www.yachtsurvey.com/Paint.htm
• ↑ https://www.boatus.com/magazine/2011/december/diy.asp
• ↑ https://www.boatus.com/magazine/2017/april/10-steps-to-the-perfect-topside-paint-job.asp
• ↑ http://www.boatus.com/boattech/articles/painting-tips.asp
• ↑ https://www.boats.com/how-to/how-to-paint-a-boat/
• ↑ https://uk.boats.com/how-to/boat-painting-guide/

About This Article

Before painting a boat, start by removing the boat from the water and cleaning the surface with a high-pressure hose. Then, sand the boat with 80-grit sandpaper and brush on a coat of primer to create a smooth, even surface. Afterwards, apply 1 coat of one step polyurethane paint, let it dry, then sand the surface with 300-grit sandpaper to remove any spots or paint bubbles. Finally, apply 2 to 3 more coats of paint, making sure to sand the boat after each coat has dried. To learn more, including how to choose the right paint for your boat, scroll down. Did this summary help you? Yes No

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• How to paint a boat: A step-by-step guide

Painting your boat not only enhances its visual appeal but also protects it from the damaging effects of saltwater, sunlight, and other elements. Whether you have a sailboat, powerboat, or kayak, the principles of boat painting remain largely the same.

Assessing your boat's condition

Before you begin, evaluate your boat's current condition. Inspect the hull for any damage, scratches, or rust that may need to be addressed before painting. Make a list of necessary repairs and tackle them first.

Gathering the right tools and materials

To paint your boat successfully, you'll need a range of tools and materials, including paintbrushes, rollers, sandpaper, masking tape, drop cloths, and, most importantly, the appropriate marine paint.

Preparing the boat surface

Proper preparation is the key to a successful paint job. Start by cleaning the boat's surface thoroughly to remove dirt, grease, and old paint. Sand the surface to create a smooth and clean canvas for the new paint to adhere to.

Applying primer

Priming is a crucial step to ensure good paint adhesion and durability. Apply a marine-grade primer that is compatible with the paint you've chosen. Allow it to dry thoroughly as per the manufacturer's instructions.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our Magazine .

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Choosing the right paint

Selecting the right type of marine paint is essential. There are different types of boat paint available, such as antifouling paint, topside paint, and bottom paint. Choose the one that suits your boat's needs and your intended use.

Applying the paint

Start by applying the paint to the boat's surface using a paintbrush or roller. Use long, even strokes, working from one end to the other. Be mindful of the weather conditions, as extreme temperatures and humidity can affect the paint's drying process.

Applying additional coats

For best results, you may need to apply multiple coats of paint. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for drying times between coats. Applying multiple thin coats is often better than one thick coat.

Drying and curing

Allow the paint to dry completely before launching your boat into the water. The curing time can vary depending on the type of paint and environmental conditions. Follow the paint manufacturer's instructions for specific guidance.

Final touches and cleanup

After the paint has dried, remove any masking tape and clean your tools and equipment. Inspect your boat's finish for any imperfections, and make any necessary touch-ups.

Painting a boat requires careful planning, preparation, and attention to detail, but the results can be incredibly rewarding. Not only will your boat look like new, but it will also be better protected against the elements, ensuring many more enjoyable days on the water.

Whether you're a DIY enthusiast or a boat owner looking to maintain your vessel's beauty and functionality, this step-by-step guide on how to paint a boat will help you achieve a professional and long-lasting finish. So, roll up your sleeves, gather your materials, and give your boat the makeover it deserves. Happy painting!

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Boat Owner’s Guide: How To Prepare and Paint a Boat

• Blog Boat Owner’s Guide: How To Prepare and Paint a Boat

Boats are exposed to a variety of elements and objects — water and all the vegetation and organisms that come with it, UV rays of the sun, extreme temperatures, sand, trailers, docks and more. It’s no surprise the paint on boats begins to crack and fade over time. When this happens, a fresh coat of paint can make a world of difference, but only if it’s done properly.

With the exposure to all these elements and objects, boats end up with peeling paint and dents. Simply painting over this uneven, damaged surface will leave you with an ugly paint job that is susceptible to peeling — and an expensive bill to fix it. They key to getting your boat like new is in the preparation. According to Sailing World, 75 percent of a successful paint job is the preparation . That means taking time to inspect your boat for problem areas, scrape off peeling paint, sanding, feathering, filling and priming — all before you apply your first coat of paint.

What you’ll need to get started:

• Protective glasses
• Tack cloth/rag
• Putty knife
• Dewaxing solvent
• Epoxy filler
• Random-orbital sander or finishing sander
• 80- to 120-grit sandpaper
• Paint roller
• Topside boat paint
• Boat bottom paint

How to Prepare a Boat’s Hull for Painting

If you’ve been wondering how to prepare a boat for painting, there’s no short answer. The reality is the actual painting of your boat takes the least amount of time — the preparation is the time-consuming part. However, with the right preparation, your coat of paint will last several years and make your boat look like new. So how do you paint a boat hull?

How to Choose an Environment to Prepare and Paint Your Boat

The preparation and painting of your boat begins with choosing a place to prep and paint. While the location may not seem like a big deal, this process is an investment of time and money, and the environment you choose can have a significant impact on the result. Here are a few of our recommendations for determining the perfect location.

• Choose a sheltered area.

The ideal location for both preparing and painting your boat is under some sort of shelter. A shed is the best option, but you can also create your own shelter from tarps or plastic sheeting if a shed or other structure isn’t available. The ultimate goal is to have an area free of any windblown debris. Protection from the elements, including the sun, is another perk of prepping and painting your boat in a sheltered area.

• Make sure the area is well-ventilated.

The ideal location for both preparing and painting your boat is under some shelter. A shed is the best option, but you can also create your shelter from tarps or plastic sheeting if a shed or other structure isn’t available. The ultimate goal is to have an area free of any windblown debris. Protection from the elements, including the sun, is another perk of prepping and painting your boat in a sheltered area.

• Pick a day with a low chance of rain.

While protection from the elements and debris is ideal, it’s also important to balance that protection with ventilation. Even before you begin priming and painting your boat, you’ll be sanding and using solvents, both of which require a well-ventilated area to keep you safe from sawdust and fumes.

• Plan to paint mid- to late-morning or mid-afternoon.

Moisture isn’t just present on a rainy day, but also in the dew in mornings and evenings. Avoid painting first thing in the morning or last thing in the evening for these reasons. It’s also wise to avoid high noon, when the sun is at its peak for heat. Both of these extremes will impact paint drying time, so it’s best to plan accordingly and paint mid- to late-morning or in mid-afternoon — after the dew has evaporated. Save noontime for your lunch break.

How to Prepare a Boat for Painting

While getting a fresh coat of paint on your boat is the ultimate goal, the preparation is going to take the longest amount of time. If you skimp on the prep work, it will show in your paint job. Here’s how to do it right:

• Clean the boat.

The very first step is to thoroughly clean your boat. This is easiest to do shortly after you remove the boat from the water, when it’s still wet. To ensure you get a deep clean, you should use a combination of a pressure washer or high-pressure hose, scraper and rags.

Make sure you remove everything from the surface of your boat, including barnacles and other hard growth that may have attached to your boat. You want to start with a clean slate — anything like slime, dirt, sand or hard growth that is stuck on your boat will get in the way of a smooth paint job.

• Remove the hardware.

We know removing every single piece of hardware possible is time-consuming, but it’s the only way to ensure the best possible paint job. This includes any aluminum siding on your boat. If there are pieces of hardware you absolutely cannot remove, you can carefully cover them with painter’s tape.

If you’re wondering why you can’t just mask and paint around all the hardware, the answer is that the paint will often be on the piece of hardware and the boat. Over time, that paint will be much more likely to crack, welcoming in water and debris, which results in flaking and peeling paint and creates more work for you in the end. Do yourself a favor and dedicate the time to removing the hardware up front to avoid problems down the road.

• Strip the wax coating.

Almost all boats have a wax finish on them. Primer or paint won’t adhere to wax, so you must remove it before you apply to prevent headaches. If you aren’t sure whether or not your boat has a wax finish, usually simply running a finger along the surface of the boat will give you the answer.

Boat solvents, with the help of rough sponges, can help you get rid of any bit of wax that is on your boat. It may take a few rounds of scrubbing — you’re only finished when there’s absolutely no waxy feeling left on your boat.

• Tape off an area to paint.

Marking off the area you’re going to prime and paint is just as important as choosing the right kind of tape. If you pick the wrong tape, you’ll be spending a lot of time removing the tape and/or the residue it leaves behind. Invest in a “long-mask” tape, like 3M’s 2090 Scotch Blue Painter’s Tape, which can handle the UV rays, but also can be left on a surface for several days.

• Mark trouble spots with tape.

Once you have marked the area you’re going to paint first, it’s time to inspect that area for trouble spots. What exactly is a “trouble spot”? Look for dents, dings and places where the paint is chipped and/or peeling. Mark them all with a small piece of tape so when you’re finished, you can see all of the trouble areas that need to be addressed.

• Scrape off peeling paint.

Peeling paint isn’t going to help your new paint job. Air and water have already made their way between the paint and the surface of the boat, which means it will continue to peel even with a fresh coat of primer and paint on top of it. To ensure an even, well-adhered coat of fresh primer and paint, remove all peeling paint. If you’re applying a different type of paint than the old paint, you’ll need to scrape and sand off all the pre-existing paint.

The best way to do this is to scrape the paint off with a sharp putty knife, making sure you keep the edge of the knife parallel to the surface. Cutting into the surface will result in creating new dents, and ultimately, more work.

Once you’ve scraped off all of the peeling paint, it’s time to sand and feather the edges around those areas to get the surface as smooth as possible. Put on your mask and protective glasses to avoid inhaling toxic paint chips and sawdust. Use a random-orbit or finishing sander, like our Mirka Pneumatic Random Orbital Finishing Sander , but never a belt sander, which is sure to do more damage than good. You’ll want a rough sandpaper to get the job done — somewhere between 80- and 100-grit.Once you’ve scraped off all of the peeling paint, it’s time to sand and feather the edges around those areas to get the surface as smooth as possible. Put on your mask and protective glasses to avoid inhaling toxic paint chips and sawdust. Use a random-orbit or finishing sander, like our Mirka Pneumatic Random Orbital Finishing Sander , but never a belt sander, which is sure to do more damage than good. You’ll want a rough sandpaper to get the job done — somewhere between 80- and 100-grit.

The particular type of sandpaper you choose depends on the boat’s material. We recommend Mirka Abranet sandpaper , which relies on flexible fabrics with breathable, net-mesh designs. Breathable means this sheet provides dust-free sanding for materials ranging from aluminum to carbon steel. If you’re working with wood, Mirka Bulldog Gold Proflex Sandpaper has aluminum oxide grain, which gives you a good cut and excellent scratch pattern.

How to Prime a Boat

Once you’ve prepared the surface and have a clean, smooth surface free of peeling paint, you’re ready to prime the boat. While our directions are for two coats of primer, please note you may need to repeat filling and sanding a few times, depending on the number of dents and low spots you have.

• Wipe surface with a tack cloth.

Regardless of whether you use dust-free sandpaper and/or a vacuum to collect the dust, you still want to follow your sanding and feathering with a tack cloth. This cloth has just enough of a tacky finish on it to remove any remaining loose particles, leaving you with a flawless finish.

• Apply the first coat of primer.

Once you’ve wiped down the entire area with a tack cloth, it’s time to apply your first coat of primer. Resist the urge to apply a thick coat — instead, paint on just enough to cover the surface of the area you’re going to paint. Let the primer dry. Make sure you follow the manufacturer’s instructions for drying time and time between coats. Don’t panic if you can see uneven spots on the surface — we’ll address that in the next step.

• Fill low spots with epoxy.

Inevitably, you’ll notice uneven spots on the surface — maybe left over from dents or peeling paint you tried to sand out. Once the primer has dried, it’s time to touch up these low spots with epoxy. Using your putty knife, apply the epoxy and do your best to evenly spread it over the low areas, creating a surface that’s as even as possible. Then, let the epoxy cure.

• Lightly sand.

Once the epoxy has cured, you want to lightly sand the area with a higher-grit sandpaper, something close to 320-grit, to get a completely smooth surface. We recommend using Mirka Waterproof Sanding Sheets , specifically designed for wet sanding — just in case the epoxy isn’t 100 percent cured, this sandpaper will still get the job done without worrying about creating a mess.

• Wipe with a tack cloth.

Once you’ve sanded the epoxy, wipe the entire area down with a tack cloth. You should reveal a smooth surface, free of low spots and dents. If you discover the area is completely smooth, move on to the next step. If you still see some low spots that could be improved, fill them with epoxy and repeat until you have a smooth surface.

• Apply a final coat of primer.

When you finally have a smooth surface, apply your final coat of primer and remove the tape while the primer is still wet. Let it dry — again, making sure you follow the manufacturer’s instructions for drying time and time between priming and painting. This final coat of primer should even out the color over the already seamless surface, proving your preparation is complete and you are finally ready to paint your boat.

How to Paint a Boat

The preparation is officially complete once the final coat of primer has dried. Now, it’s time for the final set of steps to complete your project — painting your boat.

Once your primer has dried, wipe the entire surface down with a tack cloth, removing any loose dust or dirt that has accumulated.

• Tape the edges.

Once you’ve wiped down the entire area, tape the waterline and along the top edge of the topside. Again, be sure to use long-mask tape. In addition to taping the waterline, consider covering the boat bottom or antifouling area.

• Review paint manufacturer’s instructions.

Since there are different types of topside boat paints, it’s important to remember to consult the manufacturer’s instructions before you begin painting. Some paints require thinner or have other specific mixing instructions. You want to make sure you’re following every piece of advice the manufacturer gives you before you begin to apply the first coat of paint.

• Brush or roll on the first coat of paint.

Once you’re certain you have read the manufacturer’s instructions and have mixed the paint accordingly, it’s time to apply your first coat. The majority of topside paints can be rolled or brushed on, but again, the deciding factor should be whatever the manufacturer recommends. Begin by rolling or brushing perpendicular to the waterline, making sure to take shorter strokes and covering only a small area at a time. Then, brush or roll parallel to the waterline to finish. Let the paint dry and apply additional coats per the manufacturer’s instructions.

• Remove the tape.

Before the final coat of paint is dry, remove the tape. Waiting until the final coat is dry puts you at a higher risk of peeling paint along with the tape, causing you to have to start some of the preparing and painting processes all over again.

Painting the Deck and Bottom of the Boat

While there are a lot of similarities when it comes to preparing and painting the deck and bottom of your boat, there are also some notable differences.

The deck of your boat is likely a combination of fiberglass and non-skid surfaces. On the deck, it may not be possible to remove several pieces of hardware. In that case, you should meticulously tape off all the hardware and cover upholstery and electronics. Aside from that, the preparation and painting are very much the same, except for the non-skid surfaces. When these areas are damaged, you have two options — stick an entirely new non-skid surface over them, or paint them with a paint that contains a non-skid compound.

The bottom of your boat has maximum exposure to the water and all the growth and organisms living in it — so the paint selection for the bottom of your boat is different. What is bottom paint on a boat? Bottom paints contain a biocide, often in the form of copper, that is meant to continuously slowly fade away to expose more of the biocide, which prevents barnacles and other marine growth. For more information on bottom painting a boat, visit our how-to guide for painting the bottom of a boat.

Paint Your Boat Propellers and Running Gear

We’ve covered the topsides, deck and bottom of a boat, but should you paint your boat propellers and running gear? While the appearance of your propeller and running gear may not be a high priority, the performance is a top priority.

If you’ve been wondering how to keep marine growth from fouling your propellers, painting it just might be the answer. Applying a foul release coating to these areas can improve performance and protect your boat propellers by preventing the buildup of weeds, barnacles and more by creating a super-smooth hydrophobic surface marine life can’t latch onto.

By painting a foul release coating onto your propeller and running gear, you can expect to:

• Improve acceleration and maintenance of speed. The ultra-smooth surface creates less friction, which decreases drag and resistance, resulting in more knots.
• Decrease fuel consumption. Even the slightest buildup on your propeller and running gear causes more fuel to be used to compensate for the loss in speed and engine power.
• Reduce cavitation. An unhindered surface causes less disruption in the propulsion, and therefore causes fewer air bubbles.
• Eliminate the need for biocide and produce fewer CO2 emissions. Poisonous biocides aren’t necessary with this slippery surface, and the reduction in drag also means fewer CO2 emissions are produced.

Different Types of Topside Boat Paints

As a whole, topside paints are similar. Meant for use above the waterline, they’re durable, resistant to moisture, can endure hull expansion and contraction and resist UV rays. The differences between the types of topside boat paints are in how well they rank in each of these areas.

• Two-part polyurethane paints outperform every other topside paint when it comes to hardness, scratch and UV ray resistance and gloss and color retention. Why not stop here? Because it comes with a price tag to match. In addition to being the most expensive topside paint, it also requires very specific primer and application equipment.
• One-part polyurethane paints are perfect for do-it-yourselfers. While they don’t quite have the performance of two-part polyurethane, they’re easy to apply and provide a beautiful shiny gloss finish. They’re affordable, safer to mix and apply and easy to touch up.
• Alkyd marine enamel paints are very popular because they’re easy to apply, glossy and affordable. They require fewer coats, but will require a fresh coat each year, as they aren’t as durable. Their oil base makes them a great match for wood, and they’re easy to touch up.

It’s important to remember that regardless of which type of topside boat paint you choose, you’ll need to check compatibility with the paint that’s currently on your topside. Two-part polyurethane paints, for example, can only be painted over other two-part paints. If you’re unsure what topside paint is currently on your boat, you can do a solvent test to check or strip the entire topside before painting.

National Abrasives, Inc.

At National Abrasives, we’re here to help you prepare your boat for painting, so it looks like new. Our random-orbital finishing sanders and Mirka specialty sandpapers will get every part of your boat ultra-smooth as you prepare to paint it. Take advantage of our bulk discounts free shipping and excellent customer service to make sure you always have what you need to prepare and paint your boat for the next season. Contact us to discuss your boat preparation needs, and we’ll recommend the products that will work best for you.

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How To Paint A Sailboat: A Complete Guide

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

Whether you’re new to owning a sailboat or not, you have likely put some thought into painting your boat yourself. It is important to keep your boat well painted as it can save you a lot of money in the long run. It can also save you a lot of money if you choose to paint your boat yourself.

Whether or not this is the first time you have painted your boat, you will still find this article useful. It has lots of tips and tricks for making sure you get the job done and get it done well. Hiring a professional may be easier, but there is a sense of pride and accomplishment in doing it yourself. If you use this article as a reference, you can’t go wrong.

Table of contents

Why is it important to paint your sailboat?

Painting your boat is not just an excuse to put some creative flair into your boat, it is an important process in keeping the boat safe. Safe from salt, safe from barnacles, and safe from damage. The paint acts as a vital protective layer, without it your boat will be vulnerable to all kinds of damage. If you have a wooden hull, this protective layer will keep the wood from rotting. It can also plug any minuscule holes that might allow sea life and salt to make its way into the body of the boat.

There is also, of course, the added benefit of having a boat that looks good . A boat is a point of pride and should be treated as such. Having a glossy looking boat is something to be proud of. Most boats are not painted far above the waterline, so it is even an opportunity to make your boat stand out. Some people also believe that painting a boat brings good luck. Unless of course, you paint it green, green is thought to bring bad luck. Whether or not you believe that is up to you.

What are the benefits of painting your boat yourself?

When it comes to painting your boat there are only two options. Hire a professional boat painting contractor, or bite the bullet and do it yourself. They both have their pros and cons, of course, but there is so much more to be gained by doing it yourself. First of all, painting your boat yourself is just as fun as it is difficult. Learning to paint is a valuable life skill that you won’t regret learning as early on in your sailing career as possible. If you can learn to paint your boat now, you will save yourself a small fortune in the long run.

Hiring a contractor is expensive, to say the least, it may be faster and easier overall, but the extra cost can make it simply not feasible. Or simply unappealing. If this is the first time you are painting your sailboat you will need to make a one-off purchase of all the equipment needed for prepping, painting, and finishing the boat. After these one-off purchases are out of the way, you will only need to buy paint and new rollers the next time. Even if you need to buy all the equipment brand new, it can be cheaper than hiring someone else to do the job for you.

How often do you need to paint your sailboat?

The general rule of thumb for painting your boat is that it will need bottom paint about once a year. This is when you will need to take the boat completely out of the water and give it a fresh new coat. If your boat spends all of its time in the water, it certainly needs painting at least once a year. The saltwater is so corrosive that you shouldn’t let your boat go without a fresh coat of bottom paint for more than 2 years. Even if your boat only spends half its time in the water, and the other half on land, you will find that its best to keep its coat topped up.

The top paint, or the above waterline paint, doesn’t need painting anywhere near as often. It isn’t in direct contact with the seawater so it simply isn’t going to get eroded down as much. The salty sea spray can still be damaging over time so this paint should be re-done every 3 years. It can be more or less frequent depending on use and personal preference. Some people like to do above waterline paint yearly, with the rest of their boat, but it isn’t necessary.

What are the best paints to use for your sailboat?

There are plenty of great brands of paint out there, in various colors and shades, so you won’t struggle for choice. There are some things you might want to look for in your paint . For example, you may have noticed that a lot of boats tend to have red hulls. This isn’t just a fashion statement, and while red is supposed to bring luck this isn’t the main reason either. The reason is that this red/orange paint is perfect for added protection along the bottom of your boat.

This red/orange paint is interestingly chosen because it is, of course, traditional; but mostly because of its copper. The copper is actually what gives the paint its red/orange color.

Copper is perfect for the bottom of your boat for several reasons. First, copper acts as a biocide. It stops worms from making their way into the hull if your boat is wooden. If it is metal or fiberglass, it still has the benefit of stopping barnacles and other sea life from attaching themselves deep into the hull of the boat. Copper is also strong enough to hold up to scraping.

Scraping is when you scrape barnacles and other sea life off the hull of your boat. Scraping is an important part of keeping your boat in good condition. It is important to check with the marina or port authority whether or not you are allowed to scrape. If you scrape without permission you may find yourself on the receiving end of a hefty fine. The reason is that they don’t want you introducing invasive species on to the marina floor. This is mostly a problem when you are coming from somewhere vastly foreign, not sailing from New York to Chicago for example.

How many coats of paint does a sailboat need?

When painting your boat it’s a good idea to think about how many coats of paint you are going to need. There is no exact number that is needed, it is mostly to do with how well protected your boat needs to be and how much time you have on your hands. Every coat takes time and attention to detail.

If you choose to do four coats of paint it is going to be time-consuming but very well protected. That being said, the minimum number of coats is two. One is not enough. If your boat only spends part of the time in the water, two to three coats are plenty.

If you are someone who lives on their boat full-time, or at least most of the time, you may want to do more coats. Three, maybe even four, might be ideal here. The reason is that first, your boat is going to experience way more wear and tear than one that is just an ocean part-timer. And second, taking out your boat (which is also your home) is a giant hassle. It is a tedious process, so doing it as infrequently as possible is probably in your best interest. More coats last longer. When you are sailing from place to place, finding somewhere to take your boat out of the water and perform this maintenance is inconvenient. You want to be doing it as little as possible.

What safety precautions do I need to take when painting my sailboat?

All paint can be toxic when inhaled. Even if it is “non-toxic” paint it is going to be harmful to your lungs. They aren’t meant to inhale anything but air, even non-toxic paint is going to be bad for them. This is why it is important to wear a face mask.

Your mask should be specifically for painting, not surgical masks or other cheap medial masks. They are not going to be strong enough, with a fine enough air filter. Whether you feel the need to wear eyewear is up to you during the painting process.

Before the painting begins, when you are scraping and sanding, it is a good idea to wear some goggles to keep debris and splinters out of your eyes. It is also a good idea to wear gloves. You don’t want to rough your hands up too much, they need protection from not only the paint but splinters and sharp pieces of metal.

Painting a boat can be dangerous work. Without taking the proper safety precautions you are putting yourself at unnecessary risk. This safety equipment costs just a few bucks and is equally important as any of the other tools needed to paint your boat.

What tools do I need to paint a boat?

There is more to painting your boat than just using paint and a brush . You will also need tough sandpaper , potentially an angle grinder or welder , paint, primer , brushes, paint rollers , paint thinner , and solvent. You will need to make sure you have all of these things before you start painting. You can pick any of these items up at a boating goods store.

It is a good idea to bring some buckets with you for filling with water, both for rinsing off your boat and your brushes. All of your safety equipment needs to be brought too.

If this is your first time painting your boat yourself, you may find you need to buy all of these things at once. That can be a lot to stomach when its all in one go, luckily, most of these tools and equipment can be reused. Besides, it is still going to be far cheaper than hiring someone to do it for you. All of this equipment is an investment in your boat.

How to paint a sailboat

Whether this is the first time you have painted your boat or not, you may find some of the tips in this next section useful. Painting your sailboat may be tricky at first, but over time you will get the hang of it. The problem with painting your boat is that it can be a very expensive mistake if you get it wrong.

It is important to read this guide carefully, take your time, and make sure you do the job properly. It may be slow going at first, speed will come over time. Once you have gathered all of your safety equipment and tools you are ready to get started.

The workspace

First of all, you need to ensure you have the right workspace. You cant paint your boat in the water so you are going to need to find somewhere to do your work. This is easy enough if you don’t live on your boat full time, take the boat to your house and do your painting on the driveway. If this isn’t an option because you don’t have space or live on your boat full time, you are going to need to rent somewhere. There are typically places affiliated with the marina that you can use. In some cases, these even come with a majority of the equipment you will need. This, of course, drums up the price a bit, but that’s unavoidable.

Your workspace needs to be well ventilated, or you risk making yourself very sick. Both from paint fumes, rubbing alcohol fumes, and fine matter from when you sand the hull down. This means painting your boat in your garage, if it even fits, is not always the best idea. If you do decide to paint outside, it is important to consider the chance of rain. Of course, your boat is pretty waterproof, but once you begin sanding rain might damage the wood if left to sit there.

Before you do anything else, it is important to look your boat over fully from top to bottom. You are looking for any bumps, scrapes, cracks and general damage. This damage is not going to be noticeable while the boat is in the water, so just before you paint it is one of the only times you get to have a close look. Once you have made note of all this damage, it is time to get to work repairing it. Depending on just how severe this damage is, you may want to get help with this next stage.

All of this damage needs to be repaired before anything else can take place. Painting over these damaged areas is just going to hide the problem temporarily, the next time it comes to painting you will find they are far worse. If you don’t deal with this now, they are going to snowball into complicated and expensive repairs.

After your repairs are done it is time to start sanding. This is very time consuming as you need to do it three times. Per coat. First, take the 600 grit sandpaper and make your way around the boat. It is best to use electrical tape to mark out a section at a time so you don’t keep losing your place. After you have finished with the 600 grit sandpaper, it is time to move on to 800, then 1200. This process is important so you will be painting on as smooth a surface as possible. It is then a good idea to wipe the surfaces of the boat down with a damp cloth to remove any of the dust and flakes of metal/wood. Otherwise, you end up painting over them.

You could wash the boat down with a hose but you want to avoid getting the boat unnecessarily wet now that the hull has lost its protective layer. If you are sanding down a boat with a copper paint bottom, you may find the sanding process difficult. Just do your best, it doesn’t need to be 100% perfect. It is important to get as much of the old paint off as possible. Your new paint won’t adhere to the old paint as well as it would to the boat hull itself.

Putting on a layer of primer is not 100% necessary but it is recommended. The idea is that you want your topcoat to adhere to the boat as well as possible, a layer of primer can help you do that. The primer needs to be painted on evenly all over the boat. If you only feel like doing below the waterline, that is fine too. It will save you a lot of time. Putting on the layer of primer is not the most time-consuming part, it is mostly the sanding down that you will have to do. You will need to sand down using the 600 grit paper, then the 800, then 1200. Just like last time. Your layer of primer needs to be as smooth as possible for the maximum adhesion.

Now comes the paint. It is recommended to do at least two layers of paint. One undercoat and one top. Some people choose to go as far as two layers of primer, two layers of undercoat, and three layers of topcoat. This is going to be very time consuming, remember you will need to sand down three times between each layer of paint. You can paint using a brush if you like but is far easier to use a roller. It is also far easier if you employ someone to help you with this stage. It could be your spouse, child, friend, or anyone. It doesn’t need to be a paid professional. It can take a long time to go through this process. Especially if you are effectively doing 8 layers of paint (including primer).

The fastest way to paint, especially if you are on your own, is to use a sprayer. They are easy to use, with a little practice. If you haven’t used one before you may find that you struggle to get an even coat. You should always paint in vertical stripes, not horizontal. Additionally, it is a good idea to have someone following after you with a small brush doing small touch-up jobs. Any unevenness will need to be sanded down and repainted. The whole painting process can take a week if you aren’t efficient.

Take pictures

It is a good idea to take pictures throughout the whole process. This is for future reference. For example, if you take pictures of the boat when you are assessing it for damage, you can compare them to after you have repaired or sanded the trouble spots down. If you cant see the trouble spots still, great! If you can, it will help you keep an eye on them after you have painted too. It’s a good idea to catalog all of these areas if they start to become regular problems you may want to have your boat looked at by a mechanic. You might also like to have a before and after picture for your blog, or just as a personal memento.

Hopefully, you now have all the theory needed to paint your boat. There is a lot more that goes into painting your boat than simply grabbing some paint and a brush. It takes planning, practice, and attention to detail. If you follow this guide you will have no trouble at all. If this is your first time painting your boat, don’t be disheartened if it takes a lot longer than you expected. Speed will come with time, it is far more important to get the job done right than get it done quickly. If you put the work in you will be painting like a pro in no time at all.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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How to Paint a Boat: A Step-by-Step Guide for a Fresh Finish

There’s something special about a well-maintained boat gliding through the water, its sleek and vibrant appearance turning heads along the shore. Boat maintenance plays a vital role in preserving both the aesthetic appeal and the structural integrity of the vessel. Among the many aspects of boat care, painting is a key element that can truly transform its appearance and provide long-lasting protection.

Painting a boat is not just about maintaining its beauty; it’s a process that instills a sense of pride and accomplishment. The sight of a freshly painted boat, glistening under the sun, evokes a feeling of satisfaction and signals to others your commitment to preserving your vessel.

In this comprehensive guide, we will take you through the necessary steps and provide valuable tips to help you effectively paint your boat. Whether you are restoring an old boat or looking to give a new life to your current one, this article will equip you with the knowledge and techniques needed for a successful paint job. Get ready to embark on a journey that will not only enhance the appearance of your boat but also protect it for years to come.

Assessing the Boat’s Condition

Before embarking on the painting process, it is crucial to assess the condition of your boat. Here’s why it’s important:

• Identifying Damage and Corrosion: Assessing the boat’s condition allows you to identify any damage or corrosion that needs to be addressed before painting. Look for areas where the fiberglass, wood, or metal may be compromised, such as cracks, blisters, or rust. Repairing these issues ensures a solid foundation for the paint and prevents further damage.
• Surface Imperfections: Surface imperfections like dents, scratches, or peeling paint can affect the overall finish. Identifying these imperfections allows you to address them through proper surface preparation techniques such as sanding, filling, or fairing. Achieving a smooth surface is crucial for a professional-looking and long-lasting paint job.
• Proper Preparation: Adequate preparation is key to achieving a durable and flawless paint finish. This includes cleaning the boat’s surface to remove dirt, grease, or contaminants, as well as removing any loose or flaking paint. Properly preparing the surface ensures good adhesion of the paint and improves its longevity.

By assessing the boat’s condition, you can address any existing damage or imperfections and ensure proper preparation for the painting process. This sets the foundation for a smooth and durable finish that not only enhances the appearance of your boat but also protects it against the elements for years to come.

Gathering the Necessary Supplies

To paint a boat effectively, it is important to gather the necessary supplies. Here’s a list of essential items you will need:

• Marine-Grade Paint: Choose a high-quality marine-grade paint specifically designed for boats. Consider the type of material your boat is made of (fiberglass, wood, aluminum, etc.) and select a paint suitable for that material. Marine-grade paints are formulated to withstand the harsh marine environment, providing durability, UV protection, and resistance to water, salt, and weathering.
• Primer: Use a primer designed for marine applications to ensure proper adhesion and longevity of the paint. The primer creates a stable base for the paint to adhere to, enhances its durability, and improves the overall finish.
• Paint Brushes or Rollers: Select high-quality paint brushes or rollers suitable for the type of paint you are using. Brushes with synthetic bristles are often recommended for applying marine paints. Rollers are ideal for larger areas and can provide a smoother finish.
• Masking Tape: Masking tape is essential for creating clean and precise lines between different painted areas. It helps protect areas that you don’t want to paint, such as windows, hardware, or trim.
• Sandpaper and Sanding Tools: Various grits of sandpaper, ranging from coarse to fine, are needed for surface preparation. Sandpaper helps smooth out imperfections, remove old paint or varnish, and create a suitable surface for the new paint to adhere to. Sanding tools like sanding blocks or orbital sanders can aid in achieving an even and consistent surface.
• Protective Equipment: Wear appropriate protective equipment, including safety goggles, a respirator mask, gloves, and protective clothing. These items help protect you from paint fumes, dust, and chemical exposure, ensuring your safety during the painting process.

It is crucial to select high-quality marine-grade paint that is specifically designed for the material of your boat. Using the right paint ensures optimal adhesion, durability, and resistance to the marine environment. It also provides a long-lasting finish that protects your boat and maintains its appearance over time.

By gathering the necessary supplies and choosing the right marine-grade paint, you set yourself up for a successful boat painting project, achieving a beautiful and durable finish that enhances the overall aesthetics and protection of your vessel.

Preparing the Boat for Painting

Preparing the boat’s surface is a crucial step in achieving a smooth and professional paint finish. 

Here’s a guide to preparing your boat for painting:

• Cleaning the Boat’s Surface: Start by thoroughly cleaning the boat’s surface to remove dirt, grime, and any contaminants. Use a mild detergent or boat-specific cleaner and scrub the surface with a soft brush or sponge. Rinse thoroughly with clean water to ensure no residue remains. Cleaning the surface allows the paint to adhere properly and ensures a clean base for the new coat.
• Removing Loose or Flaking Paint: Inspect the boat’s surface for any loose or flaking paint. Use a scraper or putty knife to gently remove the loose paint. Be careful not to damage the boat’s underlying material. Removing loose paint helps create a smooth and even surface for the new paint to adhere to.
• Sanding the Surface: Sanding is essential to create a suitable base for the new paint. Start by using coarse-grit sandpaper (around 80-120 grit) to remove any remaining old paint, smooth out imperfections, and promote adhesion. Use a sanding block or orbital sander to ensure an even and consistent sanding pattern. Gradually progress to finer-grit sandpaper (around 220-320 grit) for a smoother finish. After sanding, clean the surface again to remove any sanding dust.
• Filling and Fairing: If there are any dents, scratches, or imperfections on the boat’s surface, use a suitable filler or fairing compound to repair them. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the specific product you are using. Apply the filler or fairing compound with a putty knife, smoothing it out to create a level surface. Once the filler has cured, sand it lightly to ensure it blends seamlessly with the rest of the surface.

By cleaning the boat’s surface and removing loose or flaking paint, you create a clean canvas for the new paint. Sanding helps create a smooth and suitable base, promoting proper paint adhesion and ensuring a professional-looking finish. Filling and fairing any imperfections further enhance the overall appearance of the painted surface.

Remember to wear appropriate protective equipment, such as gloves and a respirator mask, during the preparation process to protect yourself from dust, chemicals, and fumes. Proper preparation sets the stage for a successful paint job, ensuring a beautiful and long-lasting finish for your boat.

Applying Primer and Paint

Applying primer and paint is a critical step in the boat painting process. Here’s a guide to help you achieve a professional finish:

The Role of Primer: 

Primer plays a vital role in the painting process. It enhances paint adhesion, improves durability, and helps create a uniform surface. It also seals the underlying material, preventing moisture penetration and protecting it from potential damage. Applying primer ensures that the paint adheres properly and provides a long-lasting and high-quality finish.

Applying Primer:

• Preparation: Ensure the surface is clean, dry, and properly sanded. Follow any specific instructions provided by the primer manufacturer. 
• Mixing: Thoroughly mix the primer according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Use a stir stick or paint mixer to ensure proper blending of the components. 
• Application: Apply the primer using a high-quality brush or roller suitable for the type of primer you are using. Start from one end and work your way across the surface in smooth, even strokes. Ensure even coverage and avoid leaving thick or thin spots. Follow the manufacturer’s recommended coverage and application thickness. 
• Drying Time: Allow the primer to dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions. This usually ranges from a few hours to overnight. Avoid touching or disturbing the surface during the drying process.

Applying Paint: 

• Preparation: Ensure the primer is dry and properly cured before applying paint. Stir the paint thoroughly to achieve a consistent color and texture. 
• Application: Apply the paint using the same techniques as the primer, starting from one end and working your way across the surface. Use smooth, even strokes to achieve consistent coverage. Avoid applying the paint too thickly, as it can lead to drips or runs. Allow each coat to dry before applying subsequent coats, following the manufacturer’s recommended drying times. 
• Multiple Coats: Apply multiple coats of paint as necessary to achieve the desired color and finish. Allow each coat to dry and lightly sand between coats to promote adhesion and ensure a smooth surface.

Maintain good ventilation during the painting process, and follow all safety precautions recommended by the primer and paint manufacturers.

Properly applying primer and paint ensures a durable and visually appealing finish. Adhere to the manufacturer’s instructions for mixing, application, and drying times to achieve the best results. Take your time, be patient, and aim for even coverage to create a beautiful and long-lasting paint job for your boat.

Painting Different Boat Surfaces

Painting different boat surfaces requires specific considerations and techniques. Here’s a guide to help you achieve optimal results on various surface types:

Fiberglass:

• Clean the fiberglass surface thoroughly to remove any dirt or contaminants.
• Use a marine-grade fiberglass primer designed specifically for fiberglass boats. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for proper mixing and application.
• Apply multiple thin coats of marine-grade paint, allowing sufficient drying time between each coat.
• For optimal results, sand lightly between coats to promote adhesion and achieve a smooth finish.
• Follow the manufacturer’s recommended number of coats and drying times for the specific paint you are using.
• Ensure the wood surface is clean, dry, and properly prepared.
• Apply a suitable wood primer to seal the surface and promote proper paint adhesion. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for application and drying time.
• Use marine-grade paint suitable for wood surfaces. Apply multiple thin coats, allowing each coat to dry fully before applying the next.
• Sand lightly between coats to achieve a smooth finish and promote adhesion.
• Consider using a varnish or clear coat as a final protective layer over the paint, especially for areas exposed to direct sunlight and water.
• Clean the metal surface thoroughly to remove any rust, grease, or contaminants. Use a suitable metal cleaner or solvent.
• Apply a metal primer designed to inhibit corrosion and promote adhesion. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for proper mixing and application.
• Use marine-grade paint suitable for metal surfaces. Apply multiple thin coats, ensuring even coverage and avoiding drips or runs.
• Consider using a rust-inhibiting paint or a paint specifically designed for metal surfaces exposed to saltwater.
• Sand lightly between coats to promote adhesion and achieve a smooth finish.

Each surface type presents unique challenges and requirements. Following the manufacturer’s instructions for the specific primers and paints you choose is essential. Pay attention to the recommended number of coats, drying times between coats, and any specific instructions regarding surface preparation or sanding.

Remember, proper surface preparation, the use of high-quality primers and paints, and allowing sufficient drying time between coats are key to achieving optimal results. Take your time, follow the instructions, and enjoy the process of transforming your boat into a stunning work of art.

Finishing Touches and Cleanup

The finishing touches and cleanup are essential steps to complete your boat painting project. Here’s a guide to help you with these final tasks:

Finishing Touches:

• Remove Masking Tape: Once the paint has dried sufficiently, carefully remove the masking tape to reveal clean and crisp lines. Pull the tape at a 45-degree angle to avoid peeling off any fresh paint. Inspect the edges and make any necessary touch-ups with a small brush.

Cleaning Paint Brushes or Rollers:

• Clean Immediately: It’s important to clean your paint brushes or rollers immediately after use to prevent the paint from drying and hardening on the bristles.
• Use the Proper Solvent: Refer to the paint manufacturer’s instructions for the recommended solvent or cleaning agent to use for the specific type of paint you used. Some paints may require water-based cleaners, while others may need mineral spirits or other solvents.
• Thoroughly Clean: Rinse the brushes or rollers with the appropriate solvent, working the bristles or nap to remove all traces of paint. Repeat the process as needed until the brushes or rollers are clean. For stubborn paint, you may need to use a brush comb or wire brush to remove it.
• Dry and Store: After cleaning, allow the brushes or rollers to dry completely before storing them. Hang brushes upside down or store them flat to maintain their shape.

Proper Disposal and Cleanup:

• Disposing of Paint Cans: Dispose of empty or partially empty paint cans according to local regulations . Many areas have specific guidelines for proper disposal of paint cans, which may include recycling or hazardous waste centers. Check with your local authorities for the appropriate disposal methods to protect the environment.
• Cleanup: Clean up the work area, ensuring all paint cans, brushes, and other materials are properly stored or disposed of. Dispose of any used masking tape, drop cloths, or other debris responsibly.

Paying attention to the finishing touches, such as removing masking tape for clean lines, enhances the overall appearance of your paint job. Cleaning paint brushes or rollers promptly after use helps maintain their quality and extends their lifespan.

Proper disposal of paint cans and responsible cleanup is crucial for protecting the environment. Follow local regulations and guidelines to ensure you dispose of any materials in an environmentally friendly manner.

By giving attention to these final steps, you can proudly admire your beautifully painted boat and enjoy the satisfaction of a job well done.

Watch Fiberglass boat painting made easy: prep, paint and top coat with a roller | Video

Top 5 FAQs and answers related to How to paint a boat

How long does it take to paint a boat.

The time it takes to paint a boat can vary depending on factors such as the size of the boat, the number of coats desired, the surface condition, and weather conditions. It is recommended to allocate several days or even weeks for the entire process, including surface preparation, priming, and painting, allowing for proper drying times between coats.

Can I paint my boat myself, or should I hire a professional?

Painting a boat can be a DIY project, but it requires careful planning, proper preparation, and attention to detail. If you have experience with painting or feel confident in your abilities, you can certainly tackle it yourself. However, if you’re uncertain or have a large boat with complex surfaces, hiring a professional painter with expertise in marine applications may be a wise choice to ensure a high-quality finish.

Do I need to remove the old paint before applying a new coat?

In most cases, it is recommended to remove loose or flaking old paint before applying a new coat. However, if the existing paint is in good condition, you can sand it lightly to create a suitable surface for the new paint to adhere to. It is important to ensure a clean and smooth base for optimal results.

How many coats of paint should I apply to my boat? 

The number of coats depends on several factors, including the type of paint, desired color intensity, and personal preference. In general, it is recommended to apply at least two or three coats of paint to achieve good coverage and durability. Follow the paint manufacturer’s instructions for the specific product you are using, as they will provide guidance on the recommended number of coats.

How do I maintain and protect the newly painted boat? 

To maintain and protect your newly painted boat, it’s important to follow proper care and maintenance practices. Regularly clean the boat’s surface using mild cleaners and avoid abrasive materials or harsh chemicals that could damage the paint. Apply a protective wax or polymer coating to enhance the paint’s durability and UV resistance. Additionally, inspect the painted surface periodically for any signs of damage or wear and address them promptly to prevent further issues.

Painting a boat is a rewarding and satisfying part of boat maintenance, and with the knowledge gained from this comprehensive guide, you can achieve a fresh and impressive paint finish. Let’s recap the key steps and considerations discussed:

• Assess the boat’s condition, identifying any damage, corrosion, or surface imperfections that require repair before painting.
• Gather the necessary supplies, including marine-grade paint, primer, brushes or rollers, masking tape, sandpaper, and protective equipment.
• Prepare the boat’s surface by cleaning it thoroughly, removing loose or flaking paint, and sanding to create a smooth base.
• Apply primer to ensure proper adhesion and durability, following the manufacturer’s instructions for mixing, application, and drying times.
• Apply paint using even strokes, ensuring proper coverage, avoiding drips or runs, and allowing each coat to dry before applying the next.
• Pay attention to specific considerations for different boat surfaces, such as fiberglass, wood, or metal.
• Attend to finishing touches, such as removing masking tape and ensuring clean lines.
• Clean paint brushes or rollers immediately after use, following the manufacturer’s instructions for the specific type of paint used.
• Dispose of paint cans and cleanup materials responsibly, following local regulations to protect the environment.

Thorough preparation, selecting high-quality materials, and following proper application techniques are essential for achieving a professional and long-lasting paint finish on your boat. Take pride in your boat’s appearance and enjoy the process of transforming it into a stunning vessel on the water.

With the knowledge and guidance provided in this guide, you have the tools to embark on your boat painting project with confidence. So, get ready to give your boat a fresh new look and take pride in the impressive results you’ll achieve. Happy painting!

Share  How to Paint a Boat: A Step-by-Step Guide for a Fresh Finish  with your friends and Leave a comment below with your thoughts.

Read  How to Remove Water Stains from a Fiberglass Boat? Guide until we meet in the next article.

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How to Paint Your Boat: A Step-by-Step Guide to Paint a Boat

Ahmed m. aly.

• June 27, 2023

Boating is a good leisure hobby that allows you to be amidst nature. You can use your boating time to enjoy the beauty of nature and engage in various activities like fishing and meditation. Whether you own a simple bass boat or a larger vessel with a superstructure, one thing remains common; your boat will eventually lose its shine and require a fresh coat of paint. This is where knowing how to paint your boat becomes essential.

In this article, we’ll discuss the different aspects of painting a boat. We’ll cover the advantages of taking on the project yourself, the various types of paints suitable for boat painting, and a step-by-step process to assist you in achieving a professional-looking finish with regular maintenance. Let’s get started!

Is Painting Your Boat Worth it?

Many of you might have painted a door or a portion of the wall of your home. But is it possible to entirely paint your boat on a DIY basis? Well, you must first understand that boat painting is more complex than a door or wall. 

Secondly, the work involved depends on the size and complexity of the boat. It requires many working hours, material, and patience. If you are inclined to invest your time and have the patience to learn and do it, then you can successfully attempt it.

You have to do the boat painting at regular intervals. If you leave the boat without maintenance for a very long period, only a professional can bring it back to its original shine, which can be costly.

The Three Parts of a Boat Paint Job

• The first part is removing all the possible hardware and protecting the remaining hardware with painter’s tape. 
• The second part is preparing the surfaces for painting, which involves getting rid of the existing coating of the paint and creating a profile or texture required for good adherence.
• The third part is applying the recommended primer and paint.

The second part is the most challenging and laborious, and you have to understand the work involved before deciding whether to do the boat painting on a DIY basis and whether it is worth it.

However, there is one solution. You can offload the surface preparation job to a wet abrasive blasting expert and do the remaining work yourself (parts one and three). Wet abrasive blasting is an effective, fast, and environmentally friendly solution for preparing the boat surfaces for painting. 

The wet abrasive blasting can create the required texture or profile on the surfaces for good adherence to painting. Wet abrasive blasting is possible on wood, aluminum, and fiberglass. The advantage is it can reach and remove the old paint from all the nooks and corners of the intricate inner boat surfaces. You can enquire with your local contractor; they usually have portable wet abrasive blasting units.

Types of Coats / Paints Available to Paint Your Boat 

The paints used for boat painting are called marine paint, and they are manufactured suitable for the marine environment and to protect your boats from salt water and lake water.

Marine paints give corrosion and abrasion resistance to the painted surfaces and maintain hydrodynamic properties. Some marine paints also have anti-fouling and self-cleaning properties.

Different paints are available in the market, like simple enamel paints, single and two-step polyurethane, etc. Polyurethane paints last longer than enamel paints. Ensure the selected primer and paint are compatible.

Paints for the Topsides of the Boat 

The topside includes surfaces above the waterline, such as, hull, deck, and the inside from the gunwale. Marine paints used for boat top painting should resist UV (Ultraviolet) rays since they are exposed to the sun and susceptible to UV damage.

Paints for Bottom Side of the Boat 

This refers to the portion below the waterline. Marine paints used for boat bottom painting should resist aquatic and marine growth.

Types of Paints Suitable for Different Boat Types

Your boat may be of wood, aluminum, or fiberglass. Let us briefly discuss the paints suitable for painting these boats. 

Aluminum Boats

Marine grade aluminum paint for boats can be used for touching up or restoration. The advantage of aluminum paint is it dries fast, and some aluminum paints do not need a primer.

Aluminum paint can be used on all the areas of the boat (boat bottom painting and top painting). Read the manufacturer’s directions for applying this paint.

Wooden Boats

If you have a wooden boat, it is better to stick to the traditional oil-based paints recommended for marine applications.

Spending money on expensive two-part paint may not be worth it since a wooden boat swells and flexes typically along the seams, and the paint, whether oil-based or two-part, has the same life. Make sure to read the manufacturer’s directions for applying the paint.

Fiberglass Boats

Fiberglass boats can be painted with enamel paint, one or two-part polyurethane paints, gel coat, etc. This can be “rolled and tipped” or sprayed onto the boat’s fiberglass surface.

Ensure the paint is recommended for marine use and read the manufacturer’s directions for applying the paint. Some manufacturers offer acrylic latex paint for painting fiberglass boats.

One-part Enamel Paints 

These paints do not involve mixing different ingredients; they are economical and easier to use than high-end paints. Conversely, they are susceptible to UV damage over time and need additional caution, like periodic cleaning and waxing.

Polyurethane Paints

These can be one part or two parts. Polyurethane is the most prevalent form of one-part paint because its long-lasting gloss is less expensive than two-part polyurethane paint, and it has a better and long-lasting gloss finish than enamel paints.

Two-part polyurethane paints cost more than the other paints discussed above, but they look better and last longer.

Apart from the high cost, a two-part polyurethane paint needs additional labor (for mixing) and an epoxy primer, and the painting has to be done at the recommended ambient temperature and humidity.

Interesting Read: Different Types of Boats | Your Guide to Boat Types

Step-by-Step Process of Painting Your Boat

Your boat may be of wood, fiberglass, or aluminum, but the method and steps of painting will be more or less the same.

Professionals use spray painting techniques to get a good quality painting. If you have the facility, you can do spray painting. However, you can achieve a fairly good painted surface using a roller and brush, provided the surface preparation is good.

Normally, a team of two persons does the boat painting, the first person does the painting using a roller, and the second person follows the first with a painting brush and evenly removes the roller pattern using light strokes.

Steps to Paint Your Boat

Step 1. wash the boat.

Wash the complete boat with soap water followed by clean water to remove all the dirt, marine growth, sand, etc. You can use high-pressure water if available.

Step 2. Collect the Paining Materials

Collect all the painting materials, such as, primer, paint, sander with discs, emery paper, rollers and brushes for painting, safety gear, etc. If you have yet to learn how to use a sander, take the help of a professional and learn how to use it. 

Read all the instructions on the primer containers, and paint and follow the safety guidelines like wearing a respirator, safety glasses, and recommended clothes during sanding and painting.

Step 3. Repair Leakage Points

Inspect all the areas of the boat, including the superstructure and make a list of leakage points (the leakage may be through a fastener, fitting, damaged joints, corroded parts, etc.) and attend to them before boat painting. 

Mark the chipped and cracked areas and rectify them. You can use the services of your experienced friend or a professional to help you.

Step 4. Protect Boat’s Hardware

Take out as much of the hardware items (bow rails, cleats, fasteners, beadings, etc.) from the boat, and the remaining are to be protected using painter’s tape. All the corroded fittings and fasteners are to be replaced. 

Do not think stainless steel is rust-proof; it has higher corrosion resistance, but seawater can corrode it over time. All the rubber beadings are to be replaced.

Step 5. Surface Preparation

The next step is surface preparation. You have to get rid of the old paint and prepare the surface for the new paint, this process is called surface preparation or prep work.

Use the painter’s tape to cover the areas that are to be protected and to mark boundaries. Use a sander with 80,120, 220, and 320 grit sandpaper to remove the paint and the glassy surface and create an even and smooth surface profile/texture. 

The surface preparation includes intricate inside parts, like decks, cabins, cockpits, fly-bridges, and other parts. This is a complex process and takes your time and needs patience.  

Step 6. Remove Protection Tapes

Remove the tape. Wash the sanded surfaces with pressure water and a sponge and allow them to dry. 

Step 7. Clean the Surface

Clean the surface using a quick evaporating cleaner and a clean microfiber cloth.

Step 8. Preparations for Painting

Cover the areas and parts of the boat that are not to be painted (with painter’s tape).

Step 9. Apply Primer Coat

Pour sufficient primer into the painting pan for one or two-hour paintings (depending on your capacity). Dip a roller into the primer to start painting, and you can make horizontal or vertical strokes with the roller. After painting about three feet, take a brush and remove the roller lines to make the painting even and smooth. 

This method is called the roll and tip method. Use the roller again to paint the next 3 feet, and use the brush to smoothen. Ensure the painting looks even, continuous, and smooth. Continue this process till you cover all the surfaces (you can take the help of your friend for brushwork).

Allow the primer to dry overnight. Use the sander with 320 grit sandpaper to remove the glassy finish, and do not sand off the primer layer. Do another coat of primer and repeat the process.

Sanding with 320 or higher grit sandpaper between coats of primer and paint help remove paint bubbles, spots, etc. 

Step 10. Post Primer Cleaning

Use a microfiber cloth and fast-evaporating solvent to clean the surface.

Step 11. Apply Remaining Coats

If necessary, remove the selected paint, mix the constituents, and pour the paint into the pan. As discussed above, use a roller and paintbrush to paint the surface.

Ensure the coating thickness is thin. Allow the paint to dry overnight. Sand the painted surface with 400 or higher grit to remove the glassy finish. Continue the above painting process to do the second and third coats of paint.

Step 12.  Final Finishing

Use the wet sanding process with higher grit sandpaper (800 or 1000) to make the painted surface slightly dull (this will remove any visible brush lines), and then do the buffing with a buffing wheel and 1000 and 2000 grit buffing compound.

You can also wax the painted surfaces to make them shine.

The above process can be used for the top portion of boat painting, but it also applies to painting other parts of the boat. Let us discuss a few points about painting the boat hull, the inner surfaces, the boat bottom painting, and painting bass boats.

How to Paint Your Boat’s Hull?

The hull is a large and smooth surface area without much hardware to remove. You may want to protect it with masking tape . Y ou will find it easier to paint a hull than the top sides of a boat. There are no angled surfaces or tight corners. 

The boat’s hull is a near-vertical surface, and multiple thin coats are preferred for painting it since the paint from a thick coat of paint can drip and spoil the painting.

If the gelcoat on the hull is severely oxidized and has a chalky look, the oxidized outer layer will have to be removed. When done sanding, run your hand along the hull and feel for dips and grooves. You can even stretch a thin batten along the hull to double-check the smoothness of the hull. 

Repair any surface imperfections like chips, dings, or gouges .  Once you’ve filled all the dips and dents, allow the filler to dry. 

Painting the Inner Non-Skid Surfaces of a Boat

Painting the inner non-skid or nonslip surfaces differs from painting the outer surfaces since sanding all the tiny nooks and corners of the inner boat may not be possible.

The inner boat surface may have raised patterns with space in between. Also, the wear on the inner parts of the boat will be uneven since people walk on the top of a pattern, and the space between the two patterns is left untouched.

You can select a textured compound for nonslip and non-skid painting that have minute rubberized pellets mixed in the paint.

This paint looks good and also gives an anti-slip surface. Also, you must select a special painting roller since this paint has solid particles.

How to Paint Your Boat’s Bottom?

Unlike the top of your boat, the bottom is susceptible to the growth of barnacles and other marine organisms. This means you’ll need to use anti-fouling paint when repainting a boat to keep them at bay.

You have a wide variety to choose from but choose the one that is environmentally friendly and does not harm marine life. You will find bottom boat painting is more straightforward than painting the hull and other parts.

Painting a Bass Boat

Bass fishing is a leisure activity in parts of North America to catch bass species fishes using a fishing rod, and the boat used for bass fishing is called a bass boat.

A bass boat is a small boat designed and equipped mainly for bass fishing in lakes, rivers, and wetlands.  Modern bass boats are propelled by a motor equipped with an elevated front deck and a swivel chair for convenient movement around the boat during bass fishing.

Bass boats may be made of aluminum alloy or fiberglass. The small size of a bass boat allows you to propel it with oars in times of emergency.

The small size of a bass boat makes it convenient for DIY painting, and you can paint a bass boat by following the same step-by-step process discussed above.

Tips for Boat Painting and Boat Maintenance

• Paint your boat on a dry, cool day or under the shade. There should not be high temperatures and high humidity.
• One important tip for creating the best surface is to apply multiple, thin, consistent coats instead of one or two thick ones. Three coats of paint are generally considered the best.
• Follow the paint manufacturer’s instructions, allow sufficient curing time between coats, and keep an eye on ambient temperature and humidity, especially if you are painting in the open. Ensure that the temperature is between 55 and 75 F and humidity is below 80 percent to provide optimal curing.
• Adhere to the drying time specified by the paint manufacturer before taking the repainted boat into the water.
• Avoid breathing in sanding dust and paint, and solvent fumes.
• Make it a habit to rinse the boat after use in saltwater.

Preserving the longevity of your boat requires diligent maintenance, including regular painting. Whether you own a small bass boat or a larger one, investing time and effort into learning how to paint your boat will undoubtedly pay off in the long run.

By understanding the different types of paints suitable for boats and following a step-by-step guide, boat owners can achieve a professional-looking finish through regular maintenance.

So, take the reins and breathe new life into your boat with a fresh coat of paint that can enhance its appearance and longevity.

References:

• BoatworksToday YouTube Channel.
• PowerBoat Television YouTube Channel.

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10 Simple Steps to Paint a Boat

Boats inherently face a variety of climates, elements, and water conditions. Depending on the type, model, motor, and usage, essential maintenance and upkeep can vary quite a lot. However, there will come a time when you will have to repaint your boat.

If that time has come or is near approaching, there are some things you should know. This article will provide a list of necessary tools and equipment and lead you through a step-by-step guide to the boat painting process.

Table of Contents

What You Will Need for boat painting

Painting a boat, preparation stage, priming stage, painting stage, final considerations.

Your boat deserves better than just a slap-on paint job in the backyard. She bears a meaningful name for a reason and willingly provides you with hours of sun-baked hobby time, work, leisure, or a combination thereof.

So, since you want to give your boat the best, there are some essential tools and equipment you will need to get the job done right, including:

• well-ventilated space
• power sander
• roller, paintbrush, or spray gun
• air compressor
• air blow gun
• respirator (must be suitable for sand debris and paint)
• eye protection
• lint-free cheesecloth
• drop cloths
• tarps, plastic sheeting
• paint thinner, alcohol, mineral spirits
• bottom paint
• wax compound
• power buffer

You do not have to have the biggest yacht in the marina to turn heads- you can achieve the same effect with a solid paint job. I am not suggesting that taking pride in your work is the cost for bragging rights; instead, I am simply stating that there is tremendous satisfaction in achieving great results.

It all starts with finding a well-ventilated area with access to water and electricity. If you cannot find a paint booth to rent in your local area and want to complete this DIY project, at least make sure you can protect yourself and your boat from the elements.

The preparation stage is undoubtedly the most critical step in any painting project. Ensure you follow all safety and hazardous waste precautions and disposal requirements and take your time to perform each part of the preparation stage wholly and thoroughly.

This process includes several elements including:

• Setting Up An Ideal workspace
• Washing And Dewaxing Your Boat
• Performing Any Repairs Necessary

Step 1. Finding & Setting Up Your Workspace

If a spray booth is unavailable, the next best thing would be having access to a shed, boat carport, or other types of shelter. I suggest placing a tarp over the ground before pulling your boat into the space for semi-sheltered carports.

First, this prevents overspray and drips from staining the floor or penetrating the soil- creating an environmental danger. In addition, sealing off the sides to the semi-open enclosure with plastic sheeting will help protect dust and pests from ruining your freshly painted boat while still allowing sunlight to penetrate the workspace.

Ensure that the workspace has safe access to both water and electricity. To make things easier, I suggest including a basic workbench to help organize all the material you will be using. And because you are working with chemicals, have an appropriate hazmat disposal area that is in keeping with local regulations.

Step 2. Washing & Dewaxing

Setting up a safe and clean workspace is a huge part of the preparation process leading to painting your boat .

Before you think about pulling your boat into the dedicated space, I suggest giving your boat a thorough external wash to rid its surface of all dust, debris, or other particulate matter.

Next, I suggest you dewax your boat not to gum up your sanding discs during the next step. Once you have washed and dewaxed your boat, pull it inside the work area and ensure it is safely secured.

Now that everything is in place and your boat is parked securely, you are ready to grind (literally).

Step 3. Sanding

Another early consideration of yours should be whether you have an appropriately sized air compressor to handle continuous sanding and spraying without cutting off mid-stroke.

If you have no other use for an air compressor, you can usually rent one from your local hardware store. However, if you go this route or borrow one from a friend, I advise you to purchase a new oil and water separator to prevent either from dripping through the spray gun’s tip or ruining your paint job.

Although plenty of people choose to use a paintbrush or roller to paint their boats, as you can see, I prefer the spray gun. Call me biased, but after spending more than a decade in the aviation and marine painting industry, I believe you can achieve a sleek finish every time, provided you use the correct technique.

PRO-TIP: Be sure to pair a suitable compressor with your spray gun of choice. In most cases, a 30-gallon air compressor with at least 6-7 CFM will be ideal for smaller boats . However, bigger is better if you own a mid-to-large boat or plan to use the compressor for other tools. If you do not want to run the risk of having to stop while your air compressor catches up, then choose an air compressor that sustains at least 10 CFM at higher PSI (such as 50+). In these cases, it would help if you were looking at compressors no smaller than a 45-gallon tank.

I like to start sanding with courser sandpaper, usually 80 or 100 grit. Be sure not to apply too much pressure to the orbital power sander as you rough up your boat’s exterior surface.

Periodically using an air blow gun clears off the surface from dust and sand debris- doing so will help you notice missed spots and prevent you from wearing out the sandpaper too quickly.

Once you have roughed up the entire surface of your boat, do a second pass over with your orbital sander using either 120 or 180 grit sandpaper.

Again, attach your air blow gun and blow away all sand debris and dust from your boat, taking special care near small joints and crevices. Once you have done this, I would consider replacing any plastic sheeting to maintain a hygienic environment for painting your boat.

Now, bring in the hose and rinse off your boat. Rinse from top to bottom and finish cleaning your work environment by rinsing off the floor.

Step 4. Repair

Depending on the construction of your boat ( aluminum , fiberglass, or wood), surface repairs will vary significantly. In any case, this is the perfect time to adequately repair any surface imperfections such as chips, deep scratches, dings, or gouges.

In all actuality, you should do this before completing a final clean of your work environment as the last step in the sanding stage.

Step 5. Cleaning

Before moving on to the masking stage, ensure that your boat surface and environment are nice and clean. Any lingering dust and other particulate matter will gladly stick to your new paint job and make it look subpar.

After a good rinse down, take some lint-free cheesecloth moistened with paint thinner, alcohol, or mineral spirits and wipe down the painting surface thoroughly.

As a final measure, use a tack cloth to go over your paintable surface one last time, picking up any lint, dust, or small debris still present.

Step 6. Masking

Before you start priming your boat, you will want to take some time and mask off any trim or other areas you do not want to paint. If you can easily remove the boat’s trim, hardware, or other ornaments, that would be the best option.

Pay attention to detail and take your time- this step is critical to preventing unwanted overspray and future clean-up. Be sure to use a trusted painter’s tape designed not to leave any residue on your surface upon removal- 3M masking tape is the way to go.

You have put in a lot of work up to this point to ensure that you have prepared your boat’s surface for prime and paint. In a paint booth, airflow and temperature are controllable factors.

If you are using any other makeshift workstation, you need to find an adequate balance between ventilation, cleanliness, and climate to produce the best finishing environment.

First, consult the weather (although it’s not a sure science) and pick a timeframe where you have at least one or two days with no chance of rain. In addition, you will want to consider humidity levels that can affect dry time and how the paint settles.

The can of primer and paint will outline the manufacturer’s specific spraying conditions; however, I suggest you spray mid-morning or mid-afternoon to avoid daily humidity extremes.

If you’ve read the instructions for mixing and spraying the primer, it’s time to mix it up, suit up with all recommended personal protective equipment, turn on that compressor, and start spraying.

Remember not to spray on the primer too thick- early on in my painting career, my first supervisor taught me to spray primer thin enough that you can still read a newspaper through it.

PRO-TIP: Whether you choose only to spray one coat of primer or spray a second, consider wet sanding between each coat for the best-looking end product. Lightly sand with finer sandpaper- start with something about 320 grit or higher. Remember to clean your boat’s surface and environment before spraying again.

Although not usually necessary, you can also apply a second coat of primer- always remembering to spray it lightly and evenly. But, again, read all product labels and be sure to respect dry times between coats.

If you have followed every step up to this point thoroughly, you have set the framework for a fantastic final coat. Although only you know how much work you have put in at this point, everyone else will be able to see what you are about to do.

Now that you have prepped and primed your boat and given adequate time for the surface to dry (hopefully while taking a break and getting something to eat), you should suit back up and get ready to paint the topcoat.

Before mixing and painting, always consult with the manufacturer’s instructions. Procedures will vary depending on whether you use an enamel or polyurethane paint (single or two-part).

Start spraying your first layer of topcoat with all safety gear on, and only after a second look at your air compressor’s settings. In addition, I urge you to watch the video I included earlier about the painting technique once again for using a spray gun.

Remember that smooth and steady gets the job done best. My recommendation is to spray at least three coats of your topcoat of choice- giving adequate dry time and a good wet sand between each.

After your final coat of paint, you should wet sand with extra-fine sandpaper such as 1000 or 1500 grit. Watch this video for the proper way to do it.

Applying a suitable clear coat or gel coat to your boat helps seal and protect all the work you have just done from harmful UV and other harmful elements.

Last but not least, a marine-grade wax compound and a good buffing will provide a protective barrier to all the layers underneath while giving your boat a high-gloss finish.

• Keep your environment clean and stay safe by utilizing all recommended protective gear.
• Remove all masking tape immediately after you finish painting.
• Clean up and spills and properly dispose of all hazardous material.

As a passionate painter, I hope to have informed you of the best way to paint your boat. Please feel encouraged to take this project on as a DIY project, even if you’ve never held a spray gun or sander before.

Take your time and refer to the steps outlined in this article as many times as you need to, and remember, slow and steady gets the job done right.

Please leave any other questions or concerns you may have about how to paint a boat in the comment section below.

Joseph Fabiano is a writer, nature enthusiast, and stay-at-home father of two wild and free boys. He enjoys starting his day with a good run, hot mug of coffee, and a jump in the Ionian Sea, no matter the weather. Currently based in the Apuglia region of southern Italy, he enjoys discovering the world with his best traveling buddies (his little monkey’s and beautiful wife) at every given opportunity. Every trip, long or far, should be made an adventure according to Joseph as he believes inspiration and creation is right in front of you.

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A Primer on Painting a Fiberglass Boat

• By Lenny Rudow
• March 9, 2022

Painting a fiberglass boat is a bit different from painting a house or a car, but any relatively handy DIY boat owner can get the job done. And once it’s done, the boat should gleam like never before. So, just how does one paint a fiberglass boat? The process breaks down into three basic steps:

• Choosing the right paint
• Prepping the surface to be painted
• Applying the paint

Choosing the Right Paint for a Fiberglass Boat

Paint for boats is very different from the paint one would use for other jobs, and when painting a boat you may even need to use more than one kind. The best paint for use on the hullsides and gelcoat is very different from the paint used for decks, and antifouling paint used on the hull bottom is yet another different variety.

Paints with shiny finishes for use on gel-coated areas include single-part enamels, single-part polyurethanes and two-part polyurethanes. Single-part enamels are used most commonly because they’re easy to apply and inexpensive. Single-part polyurethanes are also easily applied and their shine lasts longer, but they’re more expensive. Two-part polyurethane paint looks as good, or even better, than a boat’s original gelcoat when applied properly, and most people would agree that they provide the best overall results. However, they’re significantly more expensive than the other options, require special primers, have to be carefully mixed and can only be applied in the proper temperature and humidity ranges.

Paints used for decks and other surfaces that regularly see footsteps include some non-slip properties, often in the form of tiny rubberized pellets or beads. These paints won’t give you the blindingly bright finish of the ones used on a boat’s hull sides, but they are generally very easy to apply and provide a grippy surface.

Bottom paints with antifouling characteristics are entirely different. There are countless versions to choose from, but they boil down to “hard” paints and “soft” (ablative) paints. Hard paints are usually best for boats that are performance-oriented, but paint buildup can become a long-term issue. Ablative paints wear away as the boat gets used, but if a boat sits motionless in the slip for weeks or months at a time, it can lose its effectiveness. In both cases, a biocide is mixed in with the paint to prevent marine growth. Different bottom paints work better in different environments, and specific types may be regulated or even banned in certain waterways, so before choosing a bottom paint it’s best to consult with a professional in your specific area and find out what they recommend.

Prepping a Fiberglass Boat to be Painted

Regardless of which part of the boat you’re painting, or what type of paint you use, a general rule of thumb is always remember two critical things: the prep job is the most important part of any paint job, and follow the manufacturer’s recommended prep procedure because certain different products can have different specific requirements. That said, in all cases the paint preparation consists of:

• Fixing any scratches, gouges, or cracks. Remember, a fresh coat of paint won’t cover up imperfections, but instead is more likely to increase their visibility.
• Washing the entire boat from stem to stern to remove all contaminants.
• Protecting all hardware and/or fittings with painter’s tape, or removing it from the boat entirely, so you don’t accidentally damage or paint over stainless-steel, plastic, or wood items.
• Dewaxing all areas that have been exposed to wax.
• Thoroughly sanding and/or stripping the surface(s) to be painted, as per the paint manufacturer’s instructions.
• Cleaning away all sanding dust and/or stripping chemicals and materials.
• Applying the primer (if necessary, as per the manufacturer’s instructions).

Applying Paint to a Fiberglass Boat

With the prep work completed, it’s time to apply the paint. At this point, we’re going to say this one more time: follow the manufacturer’s recommended procedures. Each paint has its own application and curing characteristics, and it’s critical to do as the instructions suggest. That said, most glossy-surface paints can be applied with the standard roll-and-tip method of using a roller to apply to large surfaces, followed by using a brush to smooth out the paint. This is most effective when two people work in tandem, one with the roller and the other following along behind them with the brush. In the case of non-skid or bottom paints, it may not even be necessary and simply rolling it on then touching up the edges with a brush should do the trick.

After allowing the paint to dry or cure, you’ll probably want to paint on an additional coat or two. In most cases, two to three coats will be in order and always remember that multiple thin coats of paint generally tend to look a lot better than fewer, thicker coats.

If you’ve painted over a gel-coated area with a shiny finish paint, there’s one more step to add to the procedure. Once the final coat is dry, give it a couple of coats of a thick paste wax. This will go a long way in protecting that paint, and help ensure that your boat looks shiny and new for years to come.

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Acrylic Step-by-Step Tutorial – Easy Fishing Boat Painting

• By Will Kemp
• acrylic painting / painting
• 74 Comments

Will Kemp, Fishing Boat at St Michael’s Mount, 10 x 8 inches, Acrylic on Board

Acrylic Step-by-Step Tutorial

Are you looking for an easy acrylic painting tutorial for beginners?

After posting photos from my recent trip to St Michael’s Mount , the most popular request was to create an acrylic step-by-step tutorial of the little blue boat. So here it is, a new free acrylic lesson!

Grab a brew, maybe a biscuit or two (now the weather’s turning a bit more autumnal I’ve got a piece of particularly good ginger cake from the local farmers market) and let’s get painting, I really hope you enjoy it.

(p.s Students have had some fantastic results with this lesson)

Downloading the acrylic step-by-step reference

You can download the photo below as a reference image, print it out, and follow along.

You can download a larger version of the image here.  (The size of the image is 1:1 to the size I painted, 10 x 8 inches)

Acrylic painting tutorial materials:

• 10 x 8 inch (25.4 x 20cm) canvas or board

Acrylic Paints

I use a mix of Golden and Winsor & Newton Acrylic Paints, these were the ones I used for the demo, but they could be interchanged between other brands and still work well.

Heavy Body Paints from Golden

• Titanium White
• Ultramarine Blue
• Yellow Ochre
• Burnt Umber
• Phthalo Blue (Green Shade)

Winsor & Newton Professional Acrylic

• Naphthol Red Light
• Phthalo Blue (Red Shade)

Round Synthetic – Rosemary & Co, Series 344. Designer Golden Synthetic , size 4

• Filbert – Isabey Isacryl size 6
• Small Round Synthetic – Rosemary & Co Designer series 344 size 4
• Round Synthetic – Princeton, Aspen 9000R, size 4 

0.8mm Daler Rowney mixed-media paint marker filled with sepia high flow acrylic from Golden Paints.

• F & W Daler Rowney mixed-media paint marker
• Tear-off palette
• Palette Knife

How do you choose a colour palette for your acrylic painting?

Before I begin selecting my paints for any painting, I ask myself, what can I see?

What colour palette is going to be most helpful for this scene? What’s the feel I’m going for and what colours do I like?

Importantly what colours don’t I need? Am I going to paint impasto or in glazes ? Do I want an opaque or transparent pigment? And if using oil paints, what’s the drying time of those pigments?

I work my way around the scene, scanning for colours. If you look at our reference photo, you can see a warm muted yellow at the bottom, so I’d ask myself, are there any brighter yellows than this in the subject? Not really, so a Yellow Ochre for this piece would work well.

Now my eye has jumped to the warmth on the front of the boat, I’m going to need a red so I’m going for a Naphthol Red Light (a Cadmium Red would also work fine).

Then I’ve also got cool tones, specifically the blues.

Within the boat, you can see a turquoise blue, so I’ll use Phthalo Blue (Green Shade) for that, in the reflected light, it’s slightly warmer, so I’m selecting Phthalo Blue (Red Shade) and for the warmer shadow under the boat, Ultramarine Blue.

For the dark areas, I can mix Burnt Umber with Ultramarine Blue to create a black.

There’s almost a vivid transparent yellow-green for the green areas so that you could use a bright lemon yellow, but I’m going to use some Green Gold to give that lovely glow.

Step #1. Coloured Ground & Drawing Out

Line drawing using a high flow sepia acrylic within a mixed media pen

How do you paint sand without using yellow?

Our perception of what colour sand is is largely based on memories. Golden and bathed in sunlight, but when you look at the sand in our image, it’s a very muted colour, and that’s even with dappled sunlight over it.

Mixing a muted sand colour will feel greyer than you think it should be, but this will help with our approach to the rest of the colours in the painting. I want something that goes towards a cool hue because I can add warmer glazes in the later stages of the painting so I’ve chosen a mix of Titanium White and a small amount of Raw Umber.

Slightly dilute it with a few drops of water to move more smoothly and is easier to apply. Brush it over the whole canvas using a decorators brush or a flat synthetic brush, making sure it covers the canvas opaquely yet isn’t too thick. I don’t want to make it thick because I still want to be able to draw on top of it. Also, you don’t want to lose too much of the canvas texture.

If it isn’t flowing smoothly, dip the tip of your brush into a bit of water and continue applying, and if you do apply it too heavily, you can use the edge of your palette knife to scrape the paint off.

Okay, now we’re just going to leave that to dry before drawing out.

Drawing the s-curve

Look for the underlying s-curve made by the seaweed and ropes

I’ve drawn out using an acrylic marker.

It’s a mixed-media marker from Daler Rowney, with a really fine 0.8mm tip which makes a lovely line. What I like most is you can choose whatever medium you want to go into the empty marker. I’m using a high flow acrylic from Golden paints in a Sepia, designed originally for airbrushing, it’s already been thinned by the manufacturer.

So the drawing is actually pretty simple.

The main objects are the curve of rocks in the foreground which helps to frame the view and gives us that sense of depth from the boat. Then just a slight indication at the top where the seaweed is coming in, and also the shape of the ropes on the sand so you have this nice diagonal S-curve that sweeps through the composition.

Finally, just some very simple shapes on the boat, putting the cast shadow in and just an indication of shapes on the interior of the boat that will be lighter whiter areas.

Step #2. Burnt umber block-in

Looking at the rock on the bottom left, there’s this warmth to the surface, so having that in first will provide us with another good base. Initially, I wash in with diluted Burnt Umber to give a warm glow underneath. Brush wise; I’m using a small round synthetic brush (size 4 Design Series from Rosemary & Co series, 344)

Then, using a mix of Ultramarine Blue and Burnt Umber I mix a lovely deep, rich, cool black. I paint that very dark tone on top of the warmth, which will help us to judge the value range within the painting. If you notice there is a little dark area around the base of the boat to indicate the shadow cast onto the sand, this will help it feel like it’s set in, grounded and give the impression of some solidity.

Once you’ve made that black mix, take a little bit to one side and add some white and a bit more Burnt Umber to get a nice grey tone. You can use this for the rocks in the foreground a little later on in the painting.

Also, there are a few tiny rocks painted in, I’m always looking for these underlying areas which might break through shapes, and these little rocks are so important to add interest to what might usually feel like a very flat surface.

Step #3. Painting warmth in the sand

Before painting the greys over the rocks, I apply a thin glaze of Yellow Ochre diluted with water.

Paint this over that entire area, just like a stain to add some warmth to the rocks in the foreground first. If you look back at the reference image, you can see underneath that grey rock bottom or left; there’s a lovely yellow warmth.

I’m using a filbert brush from Isabey Isacryl range, size 6 for this section.

Also, I wash in the back of the boat edge and the brim at the top where you’ve got warm wood, a little bit next to the right-hand side of it where the sun’s hitting it, and top left. So it’s now created this underlying pattern of dappled sunlight. If it goes on a bit too strong, you can take a paper towel and pull it back.

I take a tiny bit of the black mix and white for the foreground textured rocks to give us a range of greys and apply them thicker, with broken marks.

Okay, nice, that Yellow Ochre has really added that sunshine feel to the piece!

Step #4. Adding colour to the rocks

Now I’m layering up the colours on the rocks to add more form, using Titanium White, Yellow Ochre and a touch of Burnt Umber to darken the mix; I paint a diluted base over the Yellow Ochre and vary the intensity for the darker shadows within the rocks.

Take a tiny amount of this brown mix and add white to create a warm light for some of the highlights on the very edges of the rock.

I’m using a round brush from Princeton, the Aspen range, 6500R size 4.

These little highlights help bring that a sense of light; again, just on the top of the rock brings it to life.

Step #5. Adding reflections in the sand

For the blue, I’ve mixed Ultramarine Blue with a bit of Phthalo Blue (Red Shade) and Titanium White to create this reflective light in the foreground. I’ve also used Raw Umber so that I can knock back the blue if it becomes a bit too intense.

I’m varying the thickness of the application, depending on how much of the ground, acting as the sand, I want to show through. Here I’ve swapped back to the filbert brush.

I’m just adding a bit more white where I’ve got a sense of light coming in on the right-hand side by the boat.

Leaving elements of the ground colour showing through gives us that illusion of the sand underneath. You can add a bit of the Raw Umber to mute it down for some of the more muted blues; at the very top, with the dry brush, drag it over some of these areas to give this reflection on the sand.

Step #6. Adding our lightest light

Now we’ve got these blues in, it’s going to be handy to paint in the boat, so we can then judge all the hues together to see if we need to adjust anything. Start with pure Titanium White. Paint the very widest area on the boat, and then add a little bit of Raw Umber to darken it slightly for painting in the shadow areas indicating the seat void.

Step #7. Balancing blues

Next step in the tutorial is balancing the blues.

I put out a tiny bit of Phthalo Blue (green shade) and mix it with Titanium White. This pigment has very high tinting strength, so you don’t need very much paint at all. Add a little bit of Raw Umber, so it’s not super intense, and you’ll get a lovely turquoise colour, perfect for the light side of the boat. Once that initial colour has been blocked in, I can lighten it or darken it, to give a bit more form to the hull of the boat.

I use Phthalo Blue (red shade) mixed with white and Burnt Umber for the shadow side, and then a bit of Ultramarine Blue and a tiny touch of Naphthol Red Light for the cast shadow made by the boat.

Step #8. Altering intensities to the painting

It felt like when the boat was painted in, and the more intense pigments were introduced, the reflection of the sky on the sand was competing with the boat a bit too much.

I wanted the boat to be the main centre of focus. So, I glazed down the areas of bright reflections with a mix of Raw Umber, a touch of Ultramarine Blue and a touch of Titanium White.

This knocks it down a bit so that it’s darker tonally.

Step #9. Painting pebbles in the sand

Now it feels like the boat is the main focus, but I’ve lost a little of the darkness around some of the actual initial drawing.

What I’m going to do is re-emphasise parts so that we’ve got a nice contrast.

What I do like is the cast shadow blue, which looks great. And the lightness in the background, where there’s light sneaking around the corner.

We are now adding a few small random dashes to indicate pebbles on the beach. Vary the tone of these slightly, so they don’t all feel the same.

Step #10. Adding warmth to the boat

With a bit of Naphthol Red Light, Yellow Ochre and Titanium White, mix a warm brown orange and paint around the edge of the boat; the addition of these punchy oranges suddenly make the blues look so much bluer.

I also reinforce some of the drawing and some of those darker lines around the boat.

Step #11. Refining the edges

So the last thing to do here is add that very fine rope on the front of the boat, which ties the whole composition together, grounds the scene and adds a bit more definition to it. Also, notice how the boat is more in focus than some of the more painterly marks around it.

Step #11. Adding a Green Gold glow

Then glaze over all the areas of green with the Green Gold, adding that bit of seaweed glow to the painting.

Finishing touches – painting dappled light

To break up the background, I brought in reflected light with these dots; I also felt the highlights on the rocks were competing too much, so I blocked them in more solidly to finish.

Really hope you enjoy it!

p.s you can see more acrylic painting tutorials here and this Cornish Seascape Video Course

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This post has 74 comments.

What a beautiful subject, Will! I really love your painting. Thanks for the instructions!

Thanks so much Lisa, really hope you enjoy it. Will

This is great! Thank you for the tutorial and colour mixing “recipes”!

Hope they help with your mixes Nancy.

This is wonderful!! I love how you talk through the process and the logic behind each step… thank you!!

My pleasure Mae.

Thank you So much! Your work is so beautiful!! I really appreciate your sharing yourProcess. God has blessed you mightily And in turn you bless us with your gift as an educator.

Will study what you have shared. Please know that your warmth and God given talent come through your work so beautifully. Warmest aloha, Kathy

You’re very kind Kathy, glad you found the explanations of the process helpful. Will

Very nice !!! following your instructions I’ll try it !! Thank you Will !

Good one Margarita!

Really enjoyable! I have never fancied using acrylics? But this painting of yours together with the detailed guide you give makes me want to have a go?! So good! Thanks again.

Cheers Des.

Will, always look forward to your generous sharing. This is lovely and I would like to try it in watercolor. Thank you.

Yes, it would translate well to watercolour as well.

Thank you so much Will. You’re very kind to make all this available to subscribers. I totally agree with all the above comments. Explaining the logic behind your choices & methodology makes the whole learning process so much easier for me, a complete novice, to grasp. Your emails, videos, all the info on your website are much appreciated.

Hey Yuen, so pleased to hear that you found the explanations helpful. Will

Hi will, I already attempted the blue boat when you first posted it as I thought it was such a lovely subject. I used oils, tit white, burnt umber, cobalt blue, yellow ochre and a touch of viridian. I was quite pleased with my attempt, but now having seen this post with your instructions I’m going to paint it again, maybe still using oils, maybe acrylics. I’m sure it will be much improved this time!

Good one Brenda, hope you enjoy it the second time round!

So helpful thank you

Thanks Cathy

It is very helpful and fun. Thanks for the guiding steps ! I enjoy it very much

Thanks Vivian, pleased you enjoyed the steps.

Absolutely beautiful – I’m inspired!

That’s great to hear Joanne

Thank you, Will! I was one of the people who requested a lesson from this photo, and here it is! I always learn so much from your discussions and such a beautiful final result! I will start it today! How is the remodel coming along? . Enjoy your day!

My pleasure, really hope it turns out well Nancy. Remodelling is coming along well. Will

Another great tutorial. What is interesting is that the light in the painting is more like the brightness you see here in Australia. Must have been a particularly sunny day in Cornwall.

Thanks Stewart, yes, it was some pretty special light that day. Cheers, Will

Thank you, Will…for sharing this tutorial. You are amazing! Can’t wait to do this one…it is one of my favorite of your photos.

Thanks so much Ruth, really hope your painting turns out well. Will

A gorgeous picture! And thank you for explaining it so clearly.

Glad the explanations helped to understand the thought process behind the painting Chirin.

Dear Will, I always come back to your lessons because they are clear and calming in this chaotic time. This lesson, it helped that you differentiated between the phthalo blues used to color the boat. Very insightful, as usual.

Glad the Phthalo Blue section helped Linda, yes, a little tweak in blues can really help to push a colour range. Will

Thank you! How do you keep your brush strokes so varied and lively?

Hey Matt, If you swap brushes throughout the painting it can help to get used to trying to capture a section within the confines of that particular brush. So try a decorators brush for a detailed part, or a round brush for a block-in. By working within a constraint will force a creative response. Will

Thanks so much for your tutorials. The step by step explanations are fantastic. You are making the most of your beautiful part of the world. Question: do you paint outdoors much? Warm wishes, Syl

Hi Syl, glad you enjoyed it, yes, I do paint outdoors for landscapes. Will

Hi Will, Thank you for taking time out of your busy schedule to put together this latest tutorial for us. The blue boat painting is just charming and I can’t wait to try it out. I’ve been meaning to send you feedback about your water mixable oil tutorial and now ten months have passed. The course was spot on from beginning to end and I learned a lot. The Vermeer vignette was especially instructive and fun to paint. I don’t know how you do it but all your courses are terrific. Also thank you for your generous free tutorials. Best regards from California!

So pleased you enjoyed it Karen, and glad that the water-mixable oil course was of help. There are quite a few considerations to balance so really pleased that the Vermeer series helped. Will

Thank you for sharing this beautiful painting and most of all the detailed process notes. I paint mostly in oil and am going to give this a shot.

Good one Allan, would translate well with oils aswell.

Very good of course yet I’m am not interested in what students want to know rather what you the artist want to show!—With all respect go back to your instincts – your basics that brought you to this point of teaching. Best Michael

Hey Michael, glad you enjoyed the steps, the teaching method for this tutorial is exactly how I would approach any classical teaching. I had actually taken this image to create a painting as part of my personal practice, but with the response from students thought it would be nice to share the process. Cheers, Will

Thank you Will. If anyone makes me want to try acrylics again , its you .. you made that little boat scene come to life .. great work..

That’s lovely to hear Victoria.

I really appreciate you sharing techniques and tuition with us beginners. It’s very generous and so very helpful to see and learn in stages. Thank you so much

My pleasure Carole. Will

I’ll try this one now that you demonstrated. I noticed the boat right away but felt the scene was “ to much” for my current level. Thanks Will

Hope the steps help Abbey. Cheers, Will

WHOO-HOO! Can’t wait to try this out. Can you help me to translate your colors using student-grade acrylics? I can usually find one of the Phthalo Blues. What could I use to replace either the red shade or green shade of Phthalo Blue?

Have a great day and thank you so much for the painting!

Hi Laundrea, you would be able to use the student Phthalo Blue for most of the painting, maybe a little lemon yellow to mix the turquoise.

Cheers, Will

I’ve enjoyed reading this piece immensely, Will. The meticulous step-by-step and the detailing of your thought process is incredibly helpful to beginners like me. You are such a generous teacher who never fails to inspire: I always come here or re-watch your various courses when I feel stuck. And I always find nuggets of advice and wisdom that help me move forward.

Hope you’re having fun and making good progress with whatever you’re working on at the moment. As always, looking forward to your next post.

That’s so great to hear Jo, really pleased the lessons have been helpful. Will

Will, you are the Bomb!! Thank you for sharing once again. I have painting along with you in the past and will certainly paint this lovely little boat scene. Salud!!

Hope it turns out well Faye. Will

Thanks Will! I always enjoy the boat projects the best! Had a bit of trouble with the darker side of the boat, but got it figured out in the end. Thanks again

Good one Jeff, pleased you enjoyed it. Will

I love this tutorial- am going to try it but need to get a paintbrush. I have the filbert you suggested from a previous course but need the round one and have a question. There are two different brushes listed but appear to be the same size. Is it just a US/UK difference? Also, as I am slowly adding to my supplies- do you suggest the short handled or long handled brush? Thank you for your wonderful, incredibly helpful and patient teaching style. I love your artwork and you are really an inspirational teacher.

Pleased you enjoyed it Barbara, the two brushes listed (on Rosemary & Co) are the same size brush, just different length handles. For smaller pieces, I tend to use a shorter handle for the smaller detail brush but use a long handle for filberts so I can keep a distance from the easel. Cheers, Will

thank you for this wonderful Tutorial…..learned so much about color and subtle touches to make the work come alive.

So pleased your painting went well Delores. Will

I just did this painting after not doing any art for many months- it was so approachable and satisfying to complete. I needed something to jumpstart my motivation and this was just the thing. I was pleased with the result (with the usual- I should have done this or that thing that happens after you walk away) and am looking forward to another project from you. You’re the best.

That’s fantastic to hear Barbara, so pleased for you. Will

This was so helpful Will – love the impressionistic quality of your painting. Do you ever do abstract paintings or would you teach a class on doing abstract art in acrylics or oils?

Glad you enjoyed it Donna, I do paint abstracts, good to know a class on abstraction would be of interest. Cheers, Will

Happy thanksgiving to you’all too from the other side of the Atlantic. Very thankful for your teachings and inspiration. I’ve been following your blog for some time now, and there is one thing in particular about the way you paint that I wish I could do better without exaggeration, because then it would be choppy. It has to do with the looseness of your brush strokes. For example I see the boat, and in one section of the side there are several colors of blue and grey blue that are distinct yet combined. So is it the layering and allowing the paint to dry underneath or a particular brush or something else? Maybe I simply have to stop swiping!? And while you mention looseness in your lessons regularly, I’m not getting it, although maybe I missed a lesson somewhere along the line, so please direct me accordingly if you already have this teaching somewhere on your website. I’d really like to sink this aspect into my work. Thanks … Laura

Thanks so much Laura, you might find this lesson helpful on How to Loosen up your Acrylic Paintings – Impressionistic Apples Tutorial It’s a free video tutorial so it might help being able to see how I apply the paint. To create the most free flowing style you would normally draw with the brush, but I’ve shown a pencil drawing layout to get the structure of the shapes down. Hope it helps, Will

Hi Will, thank you for this tutorial. I hope to give it a go during this holiday. Happy New Year from across the pond. Jude

Thanks so much Jude, and you, really hope you enjoy it. Will

You are such a talented artist and gifted teacher!!! Love the way you bring warmth in to the painting, in a cold setting!! Thank you for shearing this … I really enjoyed painting it.

Great to hear Sarani, so pleased you enjoyed the lesson. Will

Will- 1. You need to get a TV program going with the BBC. 2. There’s no one like you over here in the States. Do this! V/R Jane

Ha, ha, you’re very kind Jane, really pleased you enjoyed the lesson. Will

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Refitting a Sailing Yacht: Painting the Interior

• February 24th, 2016
• Yacht Refit

Refitting an old yacht can be a tiring and never ending story. That´s what they´ve told me when I was proudly telling my story of having bought a 40 year old ship. And endless black hole. An ever hungry money-destroying machine. Well. To be honest, it is an ever hungry thing, but up to now I cannot say a single bad thing about a ship´s refit. May it be because I am sitting up to 10 hours in front of my computer screen staring at ones and zeroes – for compensation, at the weekends being absorbed completely by a work that demands real craft and hand´s work. I just love doing refit work on my ship. Just as last weekend, when I´ve finished another small milestone. Painting the interior completely white. I am so proud.

When I´ve bought her it was instantly clear to me that I would have to refurbish her interior due to the fact that no less than four previous owners had laid hands on the boat and over the time her internal outfitting was a bit worn off. Besides: When you move into a new flat, what´s the first thing you do? You paint the walls in fresh white. And that´s what I am working on since January for some 21 net hours of working. On Sunday I´ve made a huge leap forward: The first of three layers of yacht white has been applied.

Painting the internal Gelcoat Surfaces

Painting Gelcoat is a chunk of work. First step was to empty the boat and clean it thoroughly (here´s the complete article on that first milestone) and then it´s a backbreaking session to grind down the Gelcoat surface, break it up so that the new paint can find grip on the surface and sink in deeply to form a whole new hardened surface. Sanding the boat was a painstaking task since the production of hazardous fine dust poses a threat to one´s health (here´s my test of breathing masks ) and it produces an awful lot of dust to get rid of afterwards.

Nevertheless, after some weekend´s work it all was done and I was able to move to the next step: Priming . I don´t think it is that necessary when painting internal surfaces but I wanted a perfect finish so I opted to go the extra mile. Some three big cans of International´s Pre Kote (blue) went into the whole ship and it was not until I´ve had applied two layers of Pre Kote varnish and let it dry out properly when I could move on to finally paint the whole thing white. I was so excited to see the outcome of my work and after having accomplished that step too I can only say: I am so, so, so much proud, I can´t barely find words. Finally everything begins to fall into place.

Product Test: International Toplac

No experiments here and my product of choice was another can (five of them all in all) of International Toplac. As far as I know it is the omnipotent varnish for utilization both for the inside and the outside above waterline. I went for the high glossy finish . The linecard of Toplac comprises 21 colors all in all with three different shades of White. There´s White 001 which is a rather hard tone and suits an Emergency Room well, but not a yacht I think. Then there´s White 905 which has a rather pearl-like effect which reminded me personally of Eighties´ Lingerie Style and – in between – a shiny friendly and soft White 545 which I opted for.

The big test was the fore cabin which I was priming and painting in white prior to the rest of the boat to have all my work tested here. Since all the Gelcoat surfaces of the forecastle will be covered either by upholstery or wood in the end, possible fails wouldn´t weigh in too much so it was good to have a trial of my craftsmanship and material here first . And what should I say? After having done two of three layers of white here, the outcome is just marvelous (besides, here´s an article on how I plan to go on with the fore cabin). Next up was the lavatory and the small entryway between saloon and fore cabin.

I may proudly state that the lavatory of my Kings Cruiser 33 is the smallest WC I´ve ever had the pleasure to put my butt onto. Nevertheless it´s a crucial part of the boat, especially when go sailing with my wife and children. So I was keen on getting a smooth and clean, yet inviting atmosphere here. Seeing it painted in white – without producing a single nose – is a big hit in my eyes. Can´t wait to see this room completed with a new pumping toilet, a solution for the then shut sink which will be converted into additional stowage, a new mirror and – if measurements will allow – a whole new (yet tiny) skylight. Speaking of noses …

Choosing the right Brush(-Sizes)

I don´t use a spray pistol since I think that´s a bit oversized for my project. Buying or renting equipment, getting it clean again for this relatively small area was too much work here for my personal taste. And I remember my first steps as a teenager when I was into modelling when I also tried to airbrush my Messerschmidts and Spitfires – it turned out to be a bad idea. I guess I am not the best sprayer in town. Nevertheless, it´s a different story with brushes . I do achieve quite satisfying results with just brushing the areas – with the help of the ease of flow of the paint itself. I could spot the tiny rills made by the bristles of the brush with the priming colors, but not so with the actual white paint. It´s a clean, smooth and spotless surface. Mostly.

What I did discover too was that apparently slender brush sizes work better in terms of the quality of the finish. It seems that wide brushes do not produce smooth surfaces in the end although cutting working time. So I would recommend to go for the longer process and opt for a smaller brush (I chose a width of 1,5 centimeters) to achieve the best possible results here. Having painted the saloon completely and braking my back again in the pantry I cramped myself into the very aft edge of the quarter berth to apply the paint there as well. All was done after some 5 hours of work. Jeez! That back hurts now …

Painting two more Layers

I guess the best finish is achieved when Toplac is applied in three layers all in all. So after letting dry everything through thoroughly I will sand the surface off a bit, clean it again (with Acetone and sticky disposable tissue to collect the dust) and grab my brush to apply the second layer only to do the same – this time from fore cabin all the way down aft to the rear end of the quarter berth to paint the third and final layer. Then it´s done. I can´t believe another milestone will be reached!

My wife was asking me why I do invest so much work and time in this simple task. She is right from her standpoint: Most of the areas I am painting white now will be covered later, most of them by wood or cushion. But you know, I do know that under the seating everything is just fine. And that´s a feeling I do really, really, really enjoy.

Next steps in my Yacht Refit-Program

So what´s up for the upcoming steps? I recently started two projects here: The first one will be the new decking made of Teak imitation (here´s a complete article on that topic) and so I´m going to make the patterns and take measurements for the production of the new decking. Second is the re-wiring and complete refit of the electric system of my Kingscruiser, which will be done with the help of yacht electrician Thomas Tschechne (another fine article on that one here). Until then it´s some 12 working hours to go to get the shiny new white onto the Gelcoat (and the Danboline into the bilge  as well). Stay tuned, cheers.

Looking for fun things to do this weekend March 22-24? Top 5 events in Palm Beach County

It's officially winter in South Florida and though you won't be building snowmen or hitting the slopes, you will be able to enjoy outdoor activities without having to layer up or even wear a jacket most of the time. This is the time to venture outside enjoy festivals, greenmarkets and the area's incredible entertainment. Get out this weekend and get your nautical fix at the Palm Beach International Boat Show along the water in downtown West Palm Beach, feed your need for speed during the 2024 Gopher Tortoise Gallop 5K and/or hear the band Donzii perform during Art After Dark at the Norton Museum of Art.

In addition to the top five events listed there's always something great happening at places like  The Norton Museum of Art  or the  Maltz Jupiter Theatre. On top of that you could always just enjoy a great meal with an equally great view at one of Palm Beach County's  waterfront restaurants  from Jupiter to Boca Raton. Plus, we've curated a list of the best things to do all year in the county, and here it is: your bucket list of 55 fun must-try things to do in Palm Beach County.

1. Palm Beach International Boat Show 2024

Once again held along Flagler Drive in beautiful downtown West Palm Beach, this four-day event will feature more than 800 boats ranging from megayachts to kayaks, exhibitors featuring over 600 brands of fishing and boating gear, multiple beverage and food vendors and more. Coming from Miami, Fort Lauderdale or Boca Raton? No problem as Brightline trains will be running and boat show shuttles will be ready to transport guests to the show.

The event runs noon to 7 p.m. Thursday, March 21; 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Friday, March 22 and Saturday, March 23 and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday, March 24. Single day adult tickets start at $33; single day child (ages 6 to 15) start at $17. Flagler Drive, West Palm Beach. pbboatshow.com

2. Zumba Dance Party with Jaime at The Mall at Wellington Green

Whether you've got the grace of Ginger Rogers or Fred Flintstone (who, actually sliding down the back of a dinosaur was actually quite graceful), come down and start "Livin' La Vida Zumba!" at this dance event that combines high- and low-intensity Latin dance moves designed to burn calories and boost endurance.

The event is 10:30 to 11:30 a.m. Saturday, March 23. 10300 Forest Hill Blvd., Wellington. Free. Information: shopwellingtongreen.com

3. 2024 Gopher Tortoise Gallop 5K

Whether or not you're a tortoise or hare, get outside and run or walk through Okeeheelee Park, while celebrating this keystone species that is the official tortoise of the Sunshine State. If you're running, the event is chipped time with awards for the top three overall (male and female) finishers and top three in each age group. Hosted by Friends of Okeeheelee Nature Center, this event will benefit the center's animals, exhibits and programs. There will be music, snacks, a DJ and dancing.

The event starts at 6:30 a.m. Saturday, March 23. 7715 Forest Hill Blvd., West Palm Beach. See website for entry fees. Information: victorysportsmgt.com/gophertortoisegallop5k

4. Palm Beach Gardens Community Yard Sale

Held on the city hall municipal campus, this event will feature between 40 and 50 vendors selling off hundreds of treasures and bargains. Find your treasure this weekend and on the way home, pat yourself on the back and yell "score!"

The event is 7:30 to 11:30 a.m. Saturday, March 23. 10500 N. Military Trail, Palm Beach Gardens. Free entry. Information: 561-630-1100; [email protected]

5. Art After Dark at the Norton Museum of Art

This week's rendition of the popular event will feature lecture on the exhibition Rose B. Simpson: Journeys of Clay along with a musical performance by the band Donzii. Featuring vocalist Jenn Balfe and musician Dennis Fuller, get ready for some post-punk goodness mixed with darkly ambient balladry.

The event is 5 to 10 p.m. Friday, March 22. 1450 S. Dixie Highway, West Palm Beach. Adults, seniors $10, students $5. Information: norton.org/events/aad-3-22-24

Eddie Ritz is a journalist at  The Palm Beach Post , part of the USA TODAY Florida Network. You can reach him at  [email protected] . Help support our journalism.  Subscribe today .

'Imaginary Amazon' exhibition counters negative stereotypes through contemporary art

University Art Gallery at San Diego State University has just unveiled an exhibit, "The Imaginary Amazon," featuring works by contemporary artists, many of them Indigenous inhabitants of the forest. The artists' intent is to address some of the stereotypical Western perspectives of the Amazon.

• By Marco Werman The World staff

Image from a poster depicting a toucan at the new exhibition, "Imaginary Amazon," at the University of San Diego, featuring works by contemporary artists, many of them Indigenous inhabitants of the Amazon. 

Marco Werman/The World

The sounds of the Amazon echo through an exhibition called "The  Imaginary Amazon ," newly launched at the University Art Gallery on the campus of San Diego State University. 

The exhibition features artwork by contemporary artists, many of whom are Indigenous inhabitants of the forest. Their intent is to address some of the stereotypical Western perspectives of the Amazon.

"Terrazo Vajo," 2020, made by the artist Abel Rodríguez, from Colombia. 

The exhibition reminds viewers of the Amazon's mass expanse — it's roughly the size of the United States' lower 48 states. And it has an equally large hold over many people's imaginations.

"All different kinds of groups of people have different images of what the Amazon means," curator Gillian Sneed said, adding that a lot of those images are based on stereotypes and unflattering perspectives trafficked for centures by the so-called Global North.

The exhibition hopes to be a counterweight to those inaccurate portrayals. 

A poster displayed at "The Imaginary Amazon," an exhibition at the University of San Diego featuring works by contemporary artists who hope to address some of the stereotypical Western perspectives of the Amazon.

"There are other kinds of imaginaries, the imaginaries of the Indigenous people who live there, their cosmologies of how they see the world or their ritual belief systems." Gillian Sneed, curator, University Art Gallery, University of San Diego, California 

"There are other kinds of imaginaries, the imaginaries of the Indigenous people who live there, their cosmologies of how they see the world or their ritual belief systems," Sneed said.

Top: "Ushipi Fruits." Bottom: "River's Banks." Both works are acrylic on paper, made by the artist Sheroanawe Hakihiiwe, from Venezuela.

The art exhibit offers social commentary on depictions of the Amazon throughout history.

In 1941, Walt Disney famously traveled to Brazil, where he met an accomplished illustrator named Jota Carlos, who had created a parrot character with human traits. Disney returned to Hollywood and introduced his character, José Carioca, a kind of "man about town" parrot from Brazil.

Brazilian artist Sergio Allevato deals with Disney's plagiarism through his own portrayal of parrots, painted on earthy linen to stay true to the actual fauna of the Brazilian Amazon, he said.

His portraits are more Audubon than Disney, reversing some of the negative stereotypes that came with the Carioca character, who was portrayed as having a "bad personality," and was "unfaithful," Allevato explained.

"Papagaida," from the series BraZil, 2019, oil on linen, by the artist Sergio Allevato, from Brazil. 

"Parrots are intrinsically connected to Brazilian history." Sergio Allevato, artist, Brazil

"Parrots are intrinsically connected to Brazilian history," Allevato added. The Portugese called Brazil "the land of the parrots," or —  terra papa gali.  Allevato said these parrots were taken by the thousands to Europe, and were exploited.

"That's all folks!" from the series BraZil, oil on linen, 2021, by the artist Sergio Allevato, from Brazil. 

Allevato said he wants to make clear that the "The Imaginary Amazon" show is not just about how people who live in the Amazon see their world. It's really about the rest of us.

" It's about being together, everybody together, fighting for the whole planet. That's it," he said. 

Gillian Sneed and Sergio Allevato stand together at "Imaginary Amazon," an exhibition at the University Art Gallery at San Diego State University.

"The Imaginary Amazon" will be on display at San Diego State University's art gallery until May. 

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Art Panfil, Cast it Forward back in action for summer: NE Ohio fishing report

• Published: Mar. 22, 2024, 5:00 a.m.

Dave Tobey of Tallmadge hauled in a couple of trophy Lake Erie walleye recently on a shakedown cruise aboard Art Panfil’s Cast it Forward charter fishing boat. Panfil, Tobey and their supporters organize Lake Erie fishing opportunities for kids, veterans and seniors throughout the summer. (Art Panfil, special to cleveland.com) Art Panfil, special to cleveland.com

• D'Arcy Egan | special to cleveland.com

CLEVELAND, Ohio — Art Panfil of Richfield believes in the magic attraction of Lake Erie and its fishing, and has made it his mission with his Cast it Forward program to give boys and girls, military veterans and senior citizens the opportunity to enjoy a memorable day on the water.

A long-time licensed fishing guide with a 23-foot Hewescraft Pro V, Panfil accommodates new anglers by trailering his boat to the best near-shore fishing areas. To assure a great experience on the water, Panfil invites just a handful of would-be anglers for a few hours on Lake Erie.

His trolling tactics have been very successful in connecting new anglers and young children with a walleye, or two, and has helped disabled veterans and the elderly find fishing success.

“A Lake Erie fishing adventure can be an impactful experience for young and old,” Panfil said. “I like to focus on those who may seldom or never have had the chance to go fishing to enjoyed the rewards of venturing out on Lake Erie. It is a friendly outing that goes beyond catching fish.”

Panfil has generated funding from major fishing companies and individuals to subsidize Cast It Forward. For more information on an invitation to go fishing, or to provide support for the program, visit castitforward.com or call 440-221-8013.

Bumpy Lake Erie weekend: It has been pretty windy this week on Lake Erie, and while chilly northern winds will make for bumpy waves this weekend, walleye fishing reports on Thursday morning were fairly positive from Lorain to the Lake Erie Islands.

The 40-foot depths are still holding decent schools of walleye, and they’re hungry fish getting read for the spring spawning season that’s just around the corner. Snow and rain are in the forecast for Friday night.

Bass, steelhead, suckers a triple treat: There a good numbers of steelhead trout in the Northeast Ohio tributaries of Lake Erie, and providing extra action in the lower rivers have been the arrival of smallmouth bass and white suckers. That’s one sure sign spring is arriving. Another has been increasing numbers of crappie in the harbor areas, especially around boat docks.

Big walleye tournaments on tap: The Bass Pro Shops/Cabela’s National Team Championships walleye event will crowd the Lorain area on May 9-11, a major tournament bringing anglers from around the country to Lake Erie.

The National Walleye Tour is heading to Western Lake Erie with weigh-ins in Port Clinton on April 18-19. The 43rd annual Walleye Festival gets underway at Waterworks Park in Port Clinton on May 23-27.

LEWT kicks off 2024 season: The Lake Erie Walleye Trail will open its 2024 season on Saturday, March 30, at Magee East, just west of Port Clinton. For entry information visit lakeeriewalleyetrail.com or call Jason Fischer, 330-351-8689.

The LEWT schedule also includes: Bays Edge Cast/Jig Open (Port Clinton) on April 20; the Huron Pro Am (May 18); Fairport Harbor (June 8); the MWC Geneva Open (July 12-13); Vic’s Sports Center Open (Aug. 3); Geneva-on-the-Lake Open (Aug. 31); and the LEWT Championship (Oct. 11-12) in Sandusky.

Barbie Rod Derby registration open: The popular Barbie Rod Steelhead Derby, a challenge to land a mighty steelhead trout with a wimpy kid’s rod and reel, will draw a crowd to the Rocky River on Saturday, March 30. While the derby and Slyman’s picnic lunch at the South Mastics Woods Picnic Area will be entertaining, the Ohio Central Basin Steelheaders raffle that benefits the Cleveland Metroparks Fishing Fund is getting out of hand. There are almost $10,000 in prizes.

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