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- Sailboat Guide
1985 Laguna 24
- Description
Seller's Description
1985 Laguna 24 shoal draft fixed keel. Standing and running rigging are in good shape. Sails (8 total) are used but are in excellent shape. These include the double reef main, 110% jib with 70% reefing points sewn in for use in gale winds, 155% genoa with whisker pole (x2), and a radial cut red, white and blue spinnaker with all have turtle bags. Two mainsail covers, brand new safety line caps and cushions. Running lights and cabin lights have been upgraded to LED as well a custom motor mount to run a trolling motor ran off a 1 year old RV battery. This “on-the-water RV” sleeps three comfortably alone or 4people with 2 in the double V-berth. There is a porta-potty, 10 gallon fresh water tank, sink with hand pump, and 2burner alcohol stove. The large cockpit is comfortable for up to 6. This boat is easy to rig and handle for 2 people, but a moderately experienced sailor can easily sail alone. Custom built tandem axle trailer, 18’ trailer extension, 3500# axles with brakes and new tires last fall. Miscellaneous gear included, i.e. tiller extension, hand-held wind gauge and knot meter, spare parts and winches, life jackets, fenders, tiller cover, fire extinguisher, solar charger, boom vang, 1 gal paint, teak cleaner oil, padded lifelines, etc.
Best offer, will consider delivery based on location and price. For more pictures or questions please text/call or email me. Thanks for looking and happy sailing!
Rig and Sails
Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.
The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.
Classic hull speed formula:
Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL
Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL
Sail Area / Displacement Ratio
A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.
SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3
- SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
- D : Displacement in pounds.
Ballast / Displacement Ratio
A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.
Ballast / Displacement * 100
Displacement / Length Ratio
A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.
D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³
- D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
- LWL: Waterline length in feet
Comfort Ratio
This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.
Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )
- D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
- LOA: Length overall in feet
- Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet
Capsize Screening Formula
This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.
CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)
LAGUNA 24S and the BALBOA 24 have shared origins.
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Rigging my Laguna 24
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This is my 24' Laguna. Bought used but fully functioning. I have tried several routes but something seems amiss. It's two ratchets, 2 winches (maybe 4, 2 blocks at mast base (pivots on clip),one cleat on mast and one inverted pulley on mast (towards bottom). I'm not sure I even have my mainsail rigged properly. Right now I'm tieing the mainsail halyard to the mast ring to prevent sail from dropping but I can't believe that's right :/ I have tried to put jib sheets through ratchets and that worked ok but the jib (Genoa) gets caught on the stays and the sheets seem to get caught on everything Thank you for your time. Please no hate, I'm trying my best Micheal
Attachments
Pretty hard to tell what you've got from the pictures. That line running from the mast to the cabintop winch definitely doesn't look right. I assume that's the main halyard. It's not uncommon on boats that size to just hoist the sails by hand and cleat at the mast (no winch). Looks like you've got the jib sheets led inside the shrouds. Typically they are outside.
yeah if that blue line from the mast back to the winch is the main it looks like you need to either cleat it off at the mast. or if you decide, mount some blocks that will lead it back to your winch. also looks like your jib sheet might be running inside your stays....might try on the outside.
Will post more pics today. Thank you for your help
Thanks for all the great post.
OK, that helps. Looks like your boat was converted to bring the halyard(s) back to the cockpit. I assume the blue line is the main halyard. You have it right running it through the block at the base of the mast. Now you need to run it through the turning blocks (stainless and mounted flat to the deck) and then through the clutch to the winch. That will keep the halyard from running across the hatch. You tighten the halyard with the winch and then lock it with the clutch. May be the same on the other side for jb halyard. Not sure what the other lines are at the mast. Maybe reefing lines. And I see your jib sheet track is along the toerail. Run the jib sheets between the shrouds and the lifelines to the block on the toerail. Note you will have to move the block fore and aft depending on which headsail you have up.
More pictures helped. Jim is right on track with his explanation. I'll add; 1. The mainsail halyard will come down from the top, back of the mast. The jib halyard down from he top, front of the mast. 2. The jam cleat at on the port side is likely for the jib halyard and the clutch on the starboard side is likely for the main halyard, someone might correct me. Any other sailboats in your marina? What's your location? Someone might volunteer to stop by and help you sort it out. Anyway, nice looking boat! Good luck.
Well, I redid the main halyard, Jib halyard and jib sheets. The jib sheets can't be right... Can they?
Main halyard looks good now. Jib sheets OUTSIDE of the shrouds, but INSIDE of the lifelines!
The jib sheets to the horn/jam cleat behind the winch is what was intended..as mentioned run the sheets inside, not over the lifelines.
Is this a Laguna 24, or a Laguna Windrose 24? Is it a fractional sloop? If you still have room along the forestay to raise the jib higher, you might consider adding a short extension to the jib tack that let's you raise the jib a bit higher so that it clears the lifeline. By chance, is there an option for attaching the lifeline lower to the deck at the bow? For example, in the photo here: http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=129 Also, one of the jib sheets should be attached to the starboard winch (with slack until you change to a port tack).
bones92 said: Is this a Laguna 24, or a Laguna Windrose 24? Is it a fractional sloop? If you still have room along the forestay to raise the jib higher, you might consider adding a short extension to the jib tack that let's you raise the jib a bit higher so that it clears the lifeline. By chance, is there an option for attaching the lifeline lower to the deck at the bow? For example, in the photo here: LAGUNA 24S sailboat specifications and details on sailboatdata.com Also, one of the jib sheets should be attached to the starboard winch (with slack until you change to a port tack). Click to expand...
Your halyard tension is woefully loose on both sails.. you need to get rid of those 'scallops' between the hanks and slugs for any kind of good performance.
THIS!!! The outhaul on the main also needs tightening.
looks good 😉
You may find that a short extension on the tack of the jib will let it clear the lifeline better.
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- Maintenance/Other Stuff
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Newbie Considering a Laguna 24
- Thread starter Gonefishinin
- Start date Jan 29, 2021
- Jan 29, 2021
Gonefishinin
Hello all. I apologize if this is the wrong forum for this but here goes. I am interested in a 1991 Sea Ray Laguna 24. This boat actually https://www.boattrader.com/boat/1991-sea-ray-laguna-24-centre-console-7709696/ I apologize in advance as I will probably butcher terminology. I have a lot of experience with cars and rvs but none with boats. When I went to see it today there was a huge amount of gelcoat cracking on deck part. The part around the perimeter of the boat just above where the hull and top part connect. There are two thick supports that run from the hull up to the center console that run laterally with the boat. They are about 4" thick and look to connect with a bulkhead about 8" back. The bottom of the one side of this is completely rotten and had rotten wood coming out of a hole. In the rear there is plywood aft of the gas tank and it was mostly rotted. Looking at the transom there were small cracks right near the top bolts of the outboards (both sides). Looking back through the transom visually looked good and the bolts didn't look sunken in. The hardware on the outboards looked a bit clean to me. The seller is a dealer who is consigning it and doesn't know/won't tell much on history. I like the boat obviously but I am worried I'm going to get something that will fall apart. I feel that it's a bit overpriced too but supposedly the seller is "motivated". Engines started without even a quarter of a second of cranking. The hull below the water line didn't have anything bad I could find. The number on the back says SERV so not the original Meritt Island plant. I guess at the end of the day the question is is this worth hiring a surveyor and moving forward on or does it sound like I'll have issues? I didn't really see how to inspect the stringers or anything else. It all seemed pretty inaccessible from the seat to the front of the console. Some tapping very aft sounded not hollow. Any advice is most appreciated. Again, just trying to get a boat I don't have to do huge repairs on as my first boat.
Well-Known Member
You should definitely have someone that knows what they are doing look at the boat. Its a 30 year old boat with a lot of wood in the structural components and you have seen strong evidence of rot in the parts you can see. Just based on what you said, I would expect the risk of major rotten stringers and deck is very very high. Those 30 year old engines are basically worth virtually nothing so the price is $15K for a 30 year old possible rotten hull. All boats are overpriced these days, but that one..... Maybe post on the boat forum of The Hull Truth where there are far more center console outboard boater types and you will get some good advice.
Got it, thank you!
Post pictures if you took any. Hard to understand what you where looking at. If you where looking at stringers and saw rotting wood it's a "run forest run." A good hull survey before you close the deal would be an ablsolute must.
- Jan 30, 2021
Riptide III
You are getting good advise. I have a 94. It isn’t without its problems. There’s a good chance the deck is soft near the center console. The hatches tend to have cracking issues and have you looked under the deck at the bulkhead just forward of the center console? They are asking too much for that. On a side note, those outboards are thirsty!
SERV = Vonore, TN. That is where my 185 was built.
Active Member
The NADA value is $11,345, so they are definitely asking too much. You definitely need to have a survey done. If the hull has serious issues, then you definitely need to walk away. I have the same engine on my boat and it is the best engine you will find. It's a two stroke so it burns 9 gallons per hour at 4000 rpm (18 gph for two), but it runs strong and idles well using the oil injection system. Using the Quicksilver Premium Plus two stroke oil there is a little smoke at startup but practically no smoke after that. Its the best engine I've ever owned. In the Fall I change the lower unit fluid. In the Spring I change the fuel filter and spark plugs. Every two years I have my mechanic change the impeller, thermostats, and poppet valve. That's it for maintenance. I also use fuel stabilizer at all times to deal with the ethanol in the gas. Good luck with your decision.
Pirate Lady
Gonefishinin said: Hello all. I apologize if this is the wrong forum for this but here goes. I am interested in a 1991 Sea Ray Laguna 24. This boat actually https://www.boattrader.com/boat/1991-sea-ray-laguna-24-centre-console-7709696/ I apologize in advance as I will probably butcher terminology. I have a lot of experience with cars and rvs but none with boats. When I went to see it today there was a huge amount of gelcoat cracking on deck part . The part around the perimeter of the boat just above where the hull and top part connect. There are two thick supports that run from the hull up to the center console that run laterally with the boat. They are about 4" thick and look to connect with a bulkhead about 8" back. The bottom of the one side of this is completely rotten and had rotten wood coming out of a hole. In the rear there is plywood aft of the gas tank and it was mostly rotted. Looking at the transom there were small cracks right near the top bolts of the outboards (both sides). Looking back through the transom visually looked good and the bolts didn't look sunken in. The hardware on the outboards looked a bit clean to me. The seller is a dealer who is consigning it and doesn't know/won't tell much on history. I like the boat obviously but I am worried I'm going to get something that will fall apart. I feel that it's a bit overpriced too but supposedly the seller is "motivated". Engines started without even a quarter of a second of cranking. The hull below the water line didn't have anything bad I could find. The number on the back says SERV so not the original Meritt Island plant. I guess at the end of the day the question is is this worth hiring a surveyor and moving forward on or does it sound like I'll have issues? I didn't really see how to inspect the stringers or anything else. It all seemed pretty inaccessible from the seat to the front of the console. Some tapping very aft sounded not hollow. Any advice is most appreciated. Again, just trying to get a boat I don't have to do huge repairs on as my first boat. Click to expand...
If there is a lot of rot then definitely walk away. When looking at 2000 model year boats with 200ish 4 stroke engines, be very wary of Yamaha engines. Yamaha engines (especially the 225 hp models) had exhaust tube corrosion issues in the 2000s. If caught early enough the repair was $4000. If not caught early enough the entire engine was ruined. Google "Yamaha exhaust tube corrosion" so you're well versed on the issue.
bahamabreisus
If still interested, hire a local surveyor to give it a quick look. Find the surveyor yourself, not through the seller.
Chip S said: If there is a lot of rot then definitely walk away. When looking at 2000 model year boats with 200ish 4 stroke engines, be very wary of Yamaha engines. Yamaha engines (especially the 225 hp models) had exhaust tube corrosion issues in the 2000s. If caught early enough the repair was $4000. If not caught early enough the entire engine was ruined. Google "Yamaha exhaust tube corrosion" so you're well versed on the issue. Click to expand...
A boat is supposed to be fun, a way to get away from stress, etc. it’s one thing to buy an older boat with known issues you can afford to fix, but a rotting hull ain’t one of them. Leave it.
Some people enjoy that. Some people buy a rusted 1950 Chevy rusted hulk found behind a barn and spend the next 10 years and 100k turning it into a trophy winner. Is that your intention? If not, keep looking, and I know it’s blasphemy to say on here but look at Trophy’s. Ya bayliner. But they good boats, made a bazillion, and good value used.
Gonefishinin said: I didn't take any pictures unfortunately. While I was there my gut reaction was "no" and I didn't start changing my mind until later. Maybe I should go with my gut. I couldn't quite figure out the structure of the boat up front. Underneath the hatch directly in front of the console and cooler/seat is where I could see the rot described. The two thick supports looked to be what holds/supports the console and that is the one that has a lot of rot. But now that I am remembering the floor of this hatch also had some rotten plywood coming up through the center area of the floor itself. I was surprised to see this as I figured everything would just go straight to the hull fiberglass and there wouldn't be any unnecessary plywood just to make a flat bottom for the hatch. At this point I think I have to walk and look at the various 21' 2000 model year or newer boats in the $20K price range with 200ish 4 stroke reputable brand engines. Also I didn't think to look up at the deck from under the hatch. That would have been smart Click to expand...
Pirate Lady said: Some people enjoy that. Some people buy a rusted 1950 Chevy rusted hulk found behind a barn and spend the next 10 years and 100k turning it into a trophy winner. Is that your intention? If not, keep looking, and I know it’s blasphemy to say on here but look at Trophy’s. Ya bayliner. But they good boats, made a bazillion, and good value used. Click to expand...
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Laguna Yachts (USA) Designer: W. Shad Turner: KLSC Leaderboard. ... LAGUNA 24S and the BALBOA 24 have shared origins. Sailboat Forum. View All Topics: ... it will vary with the weights of fuel, water, stores and equipment. A boat's actual draft is usually somewhat more than the original designed or advertised draft. For boats with adjustable ...
The Laguna 24S is a recreational keelboat, built predominantly of fiberglass, with wood trim. It has a fractional sloop rig, a raked stem, a plumb transom, a transom-hung rudder controlled by a tiller and a fixed fin keel. It displaces 3,600 lb (1,633 kg) and carries 900 lb (408 kg) of ballast. [1] [2]
Laguna 24ST is a 23′ 7″ / 7.2 m monohull sailboat designed by W. Shad Turner and built by Laguna Yachts starting in 1984. ... 24 ′ 7 ″ / 7.5 m E 10 ... the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or ...
Laguna 24S is a 23′ 7″ / 7.2 m monohull sailboat designed by W. Shad Turner and built by Laguna Yachts between 1980 and 1987. ... LAGUNA 24S and the BALBOA 24 have shared origins. Suggest Improvements Source: sailboatdata.com / CC BY. Embed Embed.
Seller's Description. 1985 Laguna 24 shoal draft fixed keel. Standing and running rigging are in good shape. Sails (8 total) are used but are in excellent shape. These include the double reef main, 110% jib with 70% reefing points sewn in for use in gale winds, 155% genoa with whisker pole (x2), and a radial cut red, white and blue spinnaker ...
May 21, 2004. 1,006. Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 409 Mt. Sinai, NY. Dec 24, 2006. #4. Towing a Catalina 22. Hello,u000bu000bI spent July - November trailer sailing a Catalina 22.u000bI towed it with a Honda minivan. The distance from myu000bhouse to the marina is about 10 miles. Towing was OK,u000bnot fun, and not something I would like to do on a ...
24'. 8'4'. 2'11'. California. $6,900. Description: I've had her since '97 and have all records for maintenance and equipment upgrades. All hardware and gear are in reliable (very reliable) working order. She sails wonderfully- a very comfortable daysailer with great looks.
Oklahoma. $6,000. Description: 1985 Laguna 24 shoal draft fixed keel. Standing and running rigging are in good shape. Sails (8 total) are used but are in excellent shape. These include the double. reef main, 110% jib with 70% reefing points sewn in for use in gale winds, 155% genoa with whisker pole (x2), and a radial.
This Laguna 24 sailboat has a fiberglass hull and an LOA of 23.58 feet (length over all). The boat has a 84 inch beam. This sailboat is set up to sail as a Sloop. The craft has 225 square feet of sail area. Displacement for the boat is 2600 lbs. The draft of this sailboat is approximately 2'11".
laguna 24 info. Thread starter greensteel; Start date May 11, 2009; Forums. Brand-Specific Forums. Other Sailboats Status Not open for further replies. ... #1 I just bought my first sailboat, a 86 laguna 24. unfortunately I can't find much info. does anyone have or know more info on this boat. Thanks
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1995 Sea Ray Laguna 24 CC. $40,000. St Augustine, FL 32084 | Pop. Check availability. <. 1. >. Find Sea Ray 24 Laguna boats for sale near you, including boat prices, photos, and more. Locate Sea Ray boat dealers and find your boat at Boat Trader!
Laguna Windrose 24 Gilbert. Nov 3, 2020. #1. Hello - this is my first post. I just purchased a 1974 24ft Laguna Windrose and now I need to learn how to sail. So, to back up a little, I have had 5 power boats and a waverunner in the last 20 years. 3 very fast 18ft flatbottom speed boats, a 27ft large freeboard openbow and a 21ft wakesurfing boat ...
Rigging my Laguna 24. This is my 24' Laguna. Bought used but fully functioning. I have tried several routes but something seems amiss. It's two ratchets, 2 winches (maybe 4, 2 blocks at mast base (pivots on clip),one cleat on mast and one inverted pulley on mast (towards bottom). I'm not sure I even have my mainsail rigged properly.
Apr 26, 2009 5,867 Oakville and Georgian Bay, Ontario Boat Info '97 330 Sundancer, Raymarine C80 suite with radar, Mercury 310 Hypalon w/8hp Yammie 2stk
1982 24' laguna balboa 24 sailboat for sale in san francisco California
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1985 Laguna 24. This Laguna sailboat has a hull made of fiberglass and has an overall length of 23.58 feet. The beam (or width) of this craft is 84 inches. This sailboat is rigged as a Sloop. The sail area for the boat is 225 square feet. Approximate displacement for the vessel comes in at around 2600 pounds. According to our records, the draft ...
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I am looking at an 85 Laguna 24 fix keel. Would welcome any and all feedback as this may be my 1st sailboat purchase. I have not been able to find much info on these boats and am very curious what anyone of you may know about quality of hull etc...\u000B\u000BThanks in Advance!\u000B\u000BMatt
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Laguna Yachts (USA) Designer: W. Shad Turner: KLSC Leaderboard. Sailboat Calculations ... 24.60 ft / 7.50 m: E: ... Like the LWL, it will vary with the weights of fuel, water, stores and equipment. A boat's actual draft is usually somewhat more than the original designed or advertised draft. For boats with adjustable keels (centerboards ...
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