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tapered-tube stanchions

Stanchions - tapered tube.

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Build your own tapered-tube dream stanchion. Manufactured on demand. Get your order in the pipeline today.

Specifications

• Tube type: tapered

• Tube diameter: 1"

• Stainless grade: 304

• Finish: mirror-polished

• Height: 18" or 24"

• Top styles: four options

• Mid lifeline hole style: four options

• Base style: five options

• Base attachment: welded or socketed

• Fastener size: 1/4"

• Flush or countersunk holes

• Tube angle: three options

Customize It

Any stanchions you see here can be customized and purchased as a special-order item. Use the custom stanchion order page. Major variants include:

• 316 stainless

• Black powdercoat finish

• Custom tube angles

• Stanchion gates

• Trapezoid bases

• Custom fastener sizes

• 7/8" and 1.25" tube

Replacement Stanchions

FYI we also manufacture exact-replica stanchions and parts, working from your photos and drawings or from specifications already on file in our huge database. We have OEM specs for most U.S. production boats dating to the 1960s. The list includes prolific legacy brands such as O’Day, Pearson, S-2, Sabre sailboats, Gemini and C&C, naming just a few. We're a preferred source for J/Boat replacement hardware.

Order replacement stanchions

Custom Stanchions

Build your dream stanchion by special order, choosing from dozens of options. Hundreds of possible configurations.

Order custom stanchions

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Boat Stanchions

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Holt Stanchion 25 x 500mm

Holt Stanchion Base Side Mount

Ocean Stanchion Cover White

Stanchion Stainless Steel

Holt Stanchion 25 x 625mm

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A Strong Stanchion to Save Your Life

• By John Vigor
• Updated: August 7, 2002

Lifeline stanchions take a terrible beating. They’re long, thin and almost impossible to install with any pretense of engineering integrity. They might have been designed as levers to pry open a deck. In fact, whenever someone shoves a boat off a dock with a hearty thrust to a stanchion, that’s exactly what can happen. In a fiberglass deck, stanchion movement can cause crazing and cracking in the gel coat. In a wood deck, movement will strain the fasteners and loosen the base, disturbing the bedding compound that forms a vital waterproof seal.

In each case, saltwater and rainwater leaks result. Telltale brown stains then will appear inside lockers, above the pilot berth, or on the cabin liner, usually (but not necessarily) directly beneath a stanchion. Leaks can run along stringers and liners, emerging some distance from the source. But leak damage isn’t just cosmetic. It can rot interior woodwork or saturate a deck core, leading to delamination, structural degradation and costly repairs.

A leak signals that you need to rebed your stanchion bases. If they were properly fitted in the first place, this is not a big job. You can do one at a time, but it’s wiser to rebed them all at once. When one springs a leak, chances are the others won’t be far behind.

Some stanchions are two-piece affairs with separate bases and upright posts. Some are bolted through the base plate only and others are reinforced with attachments to a bulwark or high toe rail (which makes them substantially stronger). Whatever the make-up, these are the key elements of good stanchion installation:

• Backing pads spread stress loads.
• Flexible bedding compound seals joints against leaks and, in a cored deck, sealed bolt holes keep the core dry.
• Stainless steel bolts/nuts/washers give strength and security.

Keeping these basics in mind, here’s a step-by-step guide to rebedding a stanchion base:

Step 1 Remove the wire lifelines. Remove the stanchion from its base (if the two are not integral) by unscrewing the retaining nuts or removing the cotter pins. Lay it aside. Place masking tape flush alongside the edges of the base and tamp down firmly.

Step 2 Remove interior trim or headliner to expose the nuts holding the stanchion base in place. Remove the nuts with a wrench. You may need a helper on deck with a large screwdriver to stop the bolt from turning. Withdraw the bolts and inspect for pitting or crevice corrosion. If need be, replace with new stainless steel bolts of the same size (but at least 1/4-inch in diameter).

Step 3 Lift the stanchion base from the deck, prying gently with a wide screwdriver if necessary. Gently scrape bedding compound off deck and bottom of base. Wash away remaining bedding compound with solvent (paint thinner or mineral spirits if it was an older, linseed oil-based marine putty such as Dolfinite bedding compound; or acetone if it was polysulfide or silicone).

Step 4 Thoroughly sand the deck inside the masking tape with 120-grit paper, taking care not to sand the tape itself, protecting it if necessary with a piece of Formica or similar held in place. Sand the bottom of the base, too.

Step 5 If necessary, prepare a new backing plate. For materials, use at least 3/32-inch-thick stainless steel, 1/8-inch aluminum or 3/16-inch marine plywood. It should be 50 percent longer and wider than the stanchion base, if possible. Place the base on top of the backing plate and mark for holes. Drill holes in the backing plate 1/16-inch larger than the bolt diameter, to allow for bolt drift.

Step 6 For decks cored with balsa or foam, and if the edges of the bolt holes have not been sealed with epoxy to prevent water ingress, there is an additional step to insert here. With a drill, ream out the existing bolt holes through the deck about 3/32-inch larger than the bolt diameter. Tape the bottom of the holes, but prick a small hole through the middle of the tape with dividers or a large needle. Mix a small quantity of epoxy resin with a bonding powder to the consistency of peanut butter and fill the bolt holes, forcing the resin down from the deck until a tiny worm of putty squeezes through the air holes in the tape. Allow the epoxy to cure. Then, using the base plate as a template, carefully re-drill the original-size holes through the middle of the epoxy.

Step 7 Cover the deck area outlined by masking tape with a generous layer of polysulfide sealant such as Boatlife’s Life Calk or 3M 101 marine sealant. Silicone may also be used to bed the base, but polysulfide is the preferred sealant. Polyurethane bedding compound should not be used because it is a powerful adhesive that makes subsequent removal of the base difficult, and will likely cause structural damage to the deck. (Note: Sikaflex claims this effect won’t occur with its less adhesive 231 polyurethane formula and says it’s suitable for bedding deck fittings.)

Step 8 Smear the bottom of the base with a layer of polysulfide sealant. Also smear sealant under the heads of the bolts. Place the base in position and drop the bolts through. Line up the slots in the bolt heads as required, but don’t turn the bolts again or you’ll destroy their waterproof seal. All tightening will be done from inside.

Step 9 Down below, fit the base plate and the washers, and screw on the nuts while a helper holds the bolts in place on deck. Tighten the nuts only until a fat bead of compound oozes out all around the edges of the base. Remove the excess compound with a putty knife or scraper and a rag soaked in mineral spirits, then smooth the sealant against the edges of the base with a finger or a plastic spoon.

Step 10 Allow the sealant to cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions. This could take anywhere from 48 hours to a week. With a helper again on deck to prevent the bolts from turning, tighten the nuts home one by one. Replace the stanchion post in its base and rerig and tension the lifelines.

Stanchions rebedded in this manner will provide many years of good service and add substantially to the security of the deck lifeline system.

Safety-At-Sea Note: The American Boat and Yacht Council suggests that the entire lifeline installation be capable of withstanding a ÒstaticÓ force of about 600 lbs.

In his book Surveying Small Craft, British author Ian Nicolson warns owners to watch out for stanchions secured with screws. All deck fittings should be thru-bolted, he says.

Furthermore, as far as stanchions are concerned, surveyors agree “that there should be underdeck pads to take the nuts and washers, almost regardless of what construction material is used. Mass-produced boats need adequate checking, because there is a tendency to omit these pads or locate them carelessly so that the bolts do not pass through the pads.”

Nicolson advocates using backing pads on top of the deck, between deck and stanchion base, and below the deck.

Dan Spurr, author of Upgrading The Cruising Sailboat, warns that stanchions should be made of stainless steel pipe, not tubing, and should have lock nuts under the deck. “Stanchions should be welded or thru-bolted to their bases, because Allen set screws only dimple the metal, at best, and are not very secure,” he writes.

To keep the exterior of the stanchion base smooth or to prevent damage to a chromed base, you may want to drill only the stanchion. Mark the position of the set screw with the stanchion in place. Remove the stanchion and center punch the spot, then drill and tap it to receive a machine screw. To use the Allen set screw, drill partially through the stanchion to provide a recess into which the set screw can securely sit. Always use LokTite or a similar product on the threads of the bolts, machine screws or set screws to keep them from working loose.

If there are only three holes in a round stanchion base, locate two holes inboard, Spurr advises. The stanchion will better be able to withstand a sudden outward thrust.

———————————————————————— John Vigor is a regular contributor to Cruising World

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Where can I buy stanchions for my O'day 25

• Thread starter Rudy21
• Start date Nov 19, 2014
• Oday Owner Forums
• Day Sailers

I just bought a 1982 O'Day 25 and it does not have a pulpit or stanchions. Where can I buy used stanchions / pulpit and how do I know they will fit? I assume new custom made stanchions would be cost prohibitive - but I may be wrong. Thanks for your suggestions.  

Find a local boat junk yard. Best to ask a local boat hauler, they take junked boats there on a regular basis. I see that you're in VA so I don't know of anyone there to recommend. Would you have to install the stanchions from scratch or do you have the bases and just are missing the stanchions themselves? I don't recall where but I recently seen a post by a guy who had the bases already and just got some used SS tubing cut it to desired height, drilled appropriate holes, got some plastic caps for the top and made his own stanchions. Pretty basic DIY IMO.  

Sunbird22358

The lifeline stanchions will not be "O'DAY 25" specific, those will be a mostly "generic" part, You may find ones with separate bases as well as ones that are one-piece with the base. I'd check a local marine consignment shop, or as mentioned above, a local (or not-so-local) boat "junkyard" (I prefer the term Recycler <GRIN!>.) The bow rail does not need to have come from another O'DAY 25 ,most are pretty generic by boat size range, obviously getting one from an O'DAY 25 may be best.... but not mandatory. The stern rail may need to be from another O'DAY 25 or 26, but you should be able to find something "close enough" that came off a different boat or from a generic source. Again, try the marine consignment stores and boat recyclers. I know of several in my area (southeasern New England) and I think there are a few in the Annapolis, MD area, and at least one in Florida that sells surplus.... but not sure of your area of Virginia. There was a guy in Maine: UsedSailboatStuff .com (207) 730-0181 that was parting out several boats, including O'DAY 25 parts, but the shipping for those bow and stern rails would kill any savings. Still, might be worth a call? As I say, finding the lifeline stanchions should be easy....... the bow and stern rails...not so easy, but certainly not impossible! Thought a diagram of the layout of the stanchions and rails that someone posted might be of some assistance.  

Attachments

D&R Marine doesn't have any listed, but maybe call Rudy and he can advise: http://www.drmarine.com/products.asp?cat=181  

Thanks for the suggestions and the attached picture helps too.  

You could also try Garhauer Marine for the stanchions.  

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Cruising the Moskva River: A short guide to boat trips in Russia’s capital

There’s hardly a better way to absorb Moscow’s atmosphere than on a ship sailing up and down the Moskva River. While complicated ticketing, loud music and chilling winds might dampen the anticipated fun, this checklist will help you to enjoy the scenic views and not fall into common tourist traps.

How to find the right boat?

There are plenty of boats and selecting the right one might be challenging. The size of the boat should be your main criteria.

Plenty of small boats cruise the Moskva River, and the most vivid one is this yellow Lay’s-branded boat. Everyone who has ever visited Moscow probably has seen it.

This option might leave a passenger disembarking partially deaf as the merciless Russian pop music blasts onboard. A free spirit, however, will find partying on such a vessel to be an unforgettable and authentic experience that’s almost a metaphor for life in modern Russia: too loud, and sometimes too welcoming. Tickets start at $13 (800 rubles) per person.

Bigger boats offer smoother sailing and tend to attract foreign visitors because of their distinct Soviet aura. Indeed, many of the older vessels must have seen better days. They are still afloat, however, and getting aboard is a unique ‘cultural’ experience. Sometimes the crew might offer lunch or dinner to passengers, but this option must be purchased with the ticket. Here is one such  option  offering dinner for $24 (1,490 rubles).

If you want to travel in style, consider Flotilla Radisson. These large, modern vessels are quite posh, with a cozy restaurant and an attentive crew at your service. Even though the selection of wines and food is modest, these vessels are still much better than other boats.

Surprisingly, the luxurious boats are priced rather modestly, and a single ticket goes for $17-$32 (1,100-2,000 rubles); also expect a reasonable restaurant bill on top.

How to buy tickets?

Women holding photos of ships promise huge discounts to “the young and beautiful,” and give personal invitations for river tours. They sound and look nice, but there’s a small catch: their ticket prices are usually more than those purchased online.

“We bought tickets from street hawkers for 900 rubles each, only to later discover that the other passengers bought their tickets twice as cheap!”  wrote  (in Russian) a disappointed Rostislav on a travel company website.

Nevertheless, buying from street hawkers has one considerable advantage: they personally escort you to the vessel so that you don’t waste time looking for the boat on your own.

Prices start at $13 (800 rubles) for one ride, and for an additional $6.5 (400 rubles) you can purchase an unlimited number of tours on the same boat on any given day.

Flotilla Radisson has official ticket offices at Gorky Park and Hotel Ukraine, but they’re often sold out.

Buying online is an option that might save some cash. Websites such as  this   offer considerable discounts for tickets sold online. On a busy Friday night an online purchase might be the only chance to get a ticket on a Flotilla Radisson boat.

This  website  (in Russian) offers multiple options for short river cruises in and around the city center, including offbeat options such as ‘disco cruises’ and ‘children cruises.’ This other  website  sells tickets online, but doesn’t have an English version. The interface is intuitive, however.

Buying tickets online has its bad points, however. The most common is confusing which pier you should go to and missing your river tour.

“I once bought tickets online to save with the discount that the website offered,” said Igor Shvarkin from Moscow. “The pier was initially marked as ‘Park Kultury,’ but when I arrived it wasn’t easy to find my boat because there were too many there. My guests had to walk a considerable distance before I finally found the vessel that accepted my tickets purchased online,” said the man.

There are two main boarding piers in the city center:  Hotel Ukraine  and  Park Kultury . Always take note of your particular berth when buying tickets online.

Where to sit onboard?

Even on a warm day, the headwind might be chilly for passengers on deck. Make sure you have warm clothes, or that the crew has blankets ready upon request.

The glass-encased hold makes the tour much more comfortable, but not at the expense of having an enjoyable experience.

Getting off the boat requires preparation as well. Ideally, you should be able to disembark on any pier along the way. In reality, passengers never know where the boat’s captain will make the next stop. Street hawkers often tell passengers in advance where they’ll be able to disembark. If you buy tickets online then you’ll have to research it yourself.

There’s a chance that the captain won’t make any stops at all and will take you back to where the tour began, which is the case with Flotilla Radisson. The safest option is to automatically expect that you’ll return to the pier where you started.

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