1978 newport 30 sailboat

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I'm considering buying a NewPort 30

• Thread starter Hillbillybuddha
• Start date Jun 3, 2020
• Brand-Specific Forums

Hillbillybuddha

I sailed a lot when I was younger. Haven't sailed much since the 90s. But my wife and I want to spend a couple years sailing the Caribbean. We've saved up about $20k for a boat and we talked to a real estate agent yesterday about putting our house on the market. Anyway, it's a 1982 Newport. The gentleman we would buy the boat from bought it almost 4 months ago. Then covid happened, shelter in place, lost his job and needs to sell it. He showed me the bill of sale and her bought it for $6I more then he's asking because he just doesn't want to deal with it. He got a survey when he bought it and it looks good. He also got a separate engine inspection and the mechanic found a pin hole leak on the heat exchanger but said, other than that, the engine is in great shape. I'm wondering if this would be a good boat to sail down the coast of California, across Panama and around the Caribbean. I should also note that my wife and I have already signed up for the first 3 ASA classes and we're just waiting for the place to reopen after covid. Also, is there anything we should look at, specific to newports?  

Well not sure if there is a specific question. Newport’s are a good boat. If you and your wife can get along in 300-400 sq ft then you have the makings of a great adventure. Selling everything, buying a boat, and going out on the open sea sounds like a terrific beginning to adventure. There is a lot to consider. Not the least is how are you going to navigate through the Panama Canal. Another possibility is to participate in a Caribbean charter to get a feel of cruising. Good luck.  

I've heard the Canal is closed to pleasure craft right now. Of course, you won't be there very soon but it's something to keep focused on. Find out if the rigging is older than 10 years. That's something I'd be concerned about in terms of going offshore. A pinhole in the exhaust is an easy fix.  

Hillbillybuddha said: I sailed a lot when I was younger. Haven't sailed much since the 90s. But my wife and I want to spend a couple years sailing the Caribbean. We've saved up about $20k for a boat and we talked to a real estate agent yesterday about putting our house on the market. Anyway, it's a 1982 Newport. The gentleman we would buy the boat from bought it almost 4 months ago. Then covid happened, shelter in place, lost his job and needs to sell it. He showed me the bill of sale and her bought it for $6I more then he's asking because he just doesn't want to deal with it. He got a survey when he bought it and it looks good. He also got a separate engine inspection and the mechanic found a pin hole leak on the heat exchanger but said, other than that, the engine is in great shape. I'm wondering if this would be a good boat to sail down the coast of California, across Panama and around the Caribbean. I should also note that my wife and I have already signed up for the first 3 ASA classes and we're just waiting for the place to reopen after covid. Also, is there anything we should look at, specific to newports? Click to expand

Alan Gomes said: The Newport 30 is a decent boat but nothing amazing. If he is asking $20K it's not grossly overpriced but certainly not a bargain, either Click to expand

nightowle said: I've heard the Canal is closed to pleasure craft right now. Of course, you won't be there very soon but it's something to keep focused on. Find out if the rigging is older than 10 years. That's something I'd be concerned about in terms of going offshore. A pinhole in the exhaust is an easy fix. Click to expand

Hillbillybuddha said: Oh, no. He's asking less than $9k. Which would leave us enough to update a few things. Autopilot, maybe a/c, update the fridge, etc. And normally I wouldn't except a seller's survey (and I probably shouldn't here) but it is the survey from when he bought the boat a few months ago. The fact that he wasn't a seller when he got the survey makes me a little more inclined to trust it, but I'll probably get one anyway. Since I want to haul it out and paint the bottom (it was done 18 months ago and survey said the antifouling looked to be in good shape) I just don't want to have to think of painting the bottom while I'm enjoying the Caribbean. The survey also suggested changing 2 of the seacocks on the thru hulls. Click to expand

Universal diesel 5416 2 cylinder. Recently had new filters and fluids, the raw water / fresh water pump was replaced and the Hurth marine gear fluid was recently changed. But the survey said that the engine mount bolts were loose so the engine should be checked to see if it's inline and true and then have the bolts tightened.  

please send lots of pictures of your adventure here. we love pictures of great adventures  

There was a Newport 30 on the hard in a boatyard I frequented. I always liked the hull shape. In particular the forefoot was vee shaped and I always thought that would make an easy motion in waves. I think the interior has the engine in the cabin a little offset from centerline. Also, I think the propeller and shaft are offset too. I wondered how this would effect steerage under power. Otherwise it's a boat of the 70's not really designed for live aboard. It has a bit of a cramped interior and not the kind or storage you would want for a long cruise. There are 3 versions of this boat - all designed by Gary Mull - which are similar. Gary Mull was a great designer whose designs included my beloved Ranger 29, the venerable Ranger 23, the PHRF beater Ranger 26 and many others. The Newport 30-3 looks to be the most cruise friendly version.  

there are to concepts for cruising on a sailboat: campers and condos (my terms) most sailors today want modern condos. push button everything. computers and battery banks and electronic everywhere. all very expensive and hard to keep in a salty environment. i sail camper style myself. more sailing, less fixing for me. you do need camping skills which i have and enjoy. in 1969 the average length vessel for world sailing cruisers was 29'. not today. no room for the condo gear. most sailors today want the vessel to sail it self while they ride. i am very old school by choice. my crew and i do the camping work and sail the vessel manually. i think sailing is way more fun than riding. that is my choice. not many agree to sail manually like i do. if you like a camping life style. that 30 ft boat will be great for two. i prefer the camping style for cruising on a sailboat. my old alden is a camper. i sail with a big crew and we do everything manually. life is choices. 30' is a great size for two camper style sailors. send back pictures please, jon  

jon hansen said: there are to concepts for cruising on a sailboat: campers and condos (my terms) most sailors today want modern condos. push button everything. computers and battery banks and electronic everywhere. all very expensive and hard to keep in a salty environment. i sail camper style myself. more sailing, less fixing for me. you do need camping skills which i have and enjoy. in 1969 the average length vessel for world sailing cruisers was 29'. not today. no room for the condo gear. most sailors today want the vessel to sail it self while they ride. i am very old school by choice. my crew and i do the camping work and sail the vessel manually. i think sailing is way more fun than riding. that is my choice. not many agree to sail manually like i do. if you like a camping life style. that 30 ft boat will be great for two. i prefer the camping style for cruising on a sailboat. my old alden is a camper. i sail with a big crew and we do everything manually. life is choices. 30' is a great size for two camper style sailors. send back pictures please, jon Click to expand

Kings Gambit

I personally doubt that you will much enjoy sailing west to east in the Caribbean on a beamy, 30-ft boat built for the Newport to Catalina run across a 26 n.mi. channel. Boats sailing the Caribbean these days tend to be nearer 40 ft, often larger. The trip you are contemplating requires gear, even if “harbor hopping.” So, your camper’s tent will likely be full of “stuff.” As far as sailing down the CA coast, it depends on where you are starting and when you will leave, as well as on your experience, as to its practicality; unless, perhaps, your wish is only to blow down from where ever you are straight to San Diego, which requires overnighting, and thus watch standing. Does the boat have two sets of adequate ground tackle, a windlass, dinghy & outboard, solar panels (to power your fridge), radar, Bimini, dodger, chart table/nav station, etc? A friend of mine bought one of those vintage Newport models to travel up the CA coast from Long Beach. Got as far as Santa Barbara on the second try, then back home. Traded it up for a Catalina 34. The ASA series can prepare you for local sailing and short-distance cruising. But you should, IMHO, have a couple of years worth (say, 40 trips each year of one to three nights each trip, average) of hands-on experience with short-distance cruising and anchoring before making the trip you describe. That way you’ll better understand what you are asking of yourselves. Also, I think you will find difficulty getting insurance to sail south of Turtle Bay in Baja California anytime before November 1st. The folks I know who the have done the west coast-Panama-Caribbean trip and who ended up in FL or elsewhere in the GOM did so on 38 to 40-ft boats: Cascade 38 & Gulfstar 38 (couples) & Irwin 40 (two guys) and all had extensive sailing experience.  

jon hansen said: if you like a camping life style. that 30 ft boat will be great for two. i prefer the camping style for cruising on a sailboat. my old alden is a camper. 30' is a great size for two camper style sailors. Click to expand

lol. enjoyed that, had a good laugh. go back and reread what i said tom sawyer, not. 'kings' your great.  

Hillbillybuddha said: ............And normally I wouldn't except a seller's survey (and I probably shouldn't here) but it is the survey from when he bought the boat a few months ago. The fact that he wasn't a seller when he got the survey makes me a little more inclined to trust it, but I'll probably get one anyway........... Click to expand

i'm related to gov. bradford on the mayflower. i loved the name Pilgrim. bradfords good buddy was john alden. john alden designed my boat. 'the circle of life' , ain't that fun my old alden is a camper style sailboat. as i referred to.  

jon hansen said: hillbilly, kings, you need to watch this video. this is a great video of a "camper" style of sailing. yepper, "camper" style. i find this way more fun than condo style sailing, i find it allows for a much superior ride. i find it "the only way to go to sea" Click to expand

A Rawson 30 is a full-keel boat of 12,000# displacement, 9-ft beam. Your Newport 30 is a fin keel of 8,000# displacement, > 10.5 ft beam. On the surface of it, the R30 is a much more sea-capable vessel. A boat’s length is not the only consideration. But, if you’ve done all of this once before, why the need for ASA courses? You’re talking several hundred $$ for the both of you.  

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Review Newport 30

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Woud YOU take a Newport 30 offshore?

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I have heard of people doing so... and wonder if anyone here has experience with this boat or similar hull designs... I am considering purchasing a 1984 Mark III, but it's offshore performance concerns me... thanks for your feedback!  

Define offshore. A day sail around Norfolk, sure. Catalina Island in S.Cali - sure. Bahama cruise - carefully, watching the weather. Further than the USCG can come get me in a hurry? No.  

chucklesR said: Further than the USCG can come get me in a hurry? No. Click to expand...

I think that Chuckles pegged it.....For the most part, Capital Yachts purchased the tooling for obsolete boats from other manufacturers and produced generally value oriented models. I may be mistaken but I think that the Newport 30 began life as a Mull designed Ranger. As such they were pretty nice coastal cruisers, offering decent accomodations and sailing ability. I've always liked Gary Mulls work. When you talk about trying to take one offshore, that is far from their original intent when new and very far from their capabilities without heavily modifying them as 25 year old boats. These boats were pretty lightly built when new. Their shoe-box style hull to deck joint was never intended for the rigours of offshore abuse. They had minimal internal framing. Their deck hardware was adequate for coastal sailing but not really sized for the kinds of heavier conditions that one would expect offshore. and so on.... Jeff  

Chuckles probably means if you're out past heli range....  

Jeff- is correct aobut the Mull design. I've owned a Newport 30 and would not like to have taken it off-shore. All of the opinions above are true. They are not as robust as you would need and gear would really need to be upgraded. The tankage is totally insuficient for off-shore work. In addition, the canoe style underbody does not provide a comfortable motion in a seaway. The Newport is a great boat for daysailing, coastal cruising, and even racing, but the boat will beat your kidneys out going to weather in a blow.  

Jeff_H said: For the most part, Capital Yachts purchased the tooling for obsolete boats from other manufacturers and produced generally value oriented models. I may be mistaken but I think that the Newport 30 began life as a Mull designed Ranger. Click to expand...

Define "OffShore" I'd say Chuckles is right....define "OffShore" first. I have an '83 Newport 27-S MKII, and have been in email contact with George Cuthbertson, one of the "C"'s in C&C, who designed the Newport 27, asking that exact question about my 27, and his words were "I would not hesitate to take that model offshore." Now, of course, he's talking about the design itself, not necessarily what a builder DID with his design. So if Capital Yachts used lighter hardware, etc., than he intended, that would temper George's recommendation. But I know mine is solid as a rock, solid, non-cored hull, good hardware....and I've been caught in a serious blow or two and she handled them without a whimper or a threat....so I've felt completely safe in my "little" 27. But, again....define "offshore". One old timer who was looking at mine while both of ours were up on the hard, said he would not hesitate to take mine to Bermuda...and he had some monster double-masted thing that was at least 40-some feet...and said he sails there all the time... The real issue is weather....not just stereotyping the size of the boat....if you're caught out in serious weather, even in something much bigger than a 27 or a 30, size isn't going to save you. IF you've planned the passage, and have clear weather, the Newport 30 will get you there fine.  

Stenn said: I'd say Chuckles is right....define "OffShore" first. I have an '83 Newport 27-S MKII, and have been in email contact with George Cuthbertson, one of the "C"'s in C&C, who designed the Newport 27, asking that exact question about my 27, and his words were "I would not hesitate to take that model offshore." Now, of course, he's talking about the design itself, not necessarily what a builder DID with his design. So if Capital Yachts used lighter hardware, etc., than he intended, that would temper George's recommendation. But I know mine is solid as a rock, solid, non-cored hull, good hardware....and I've been caught in a serious blow or two and she handled them without a whimper or a threat....so I've felt completely safe in my "little" 27. But, again....define "offshore". One old timer who was looking at mine while both of ours were up on the hard, said he would not hesitate to take mine to Bermuda...and he had some monster double-masted thing that was at least 40-some feet...and said he sails there all the time... The real issue is weather....not just stereotyping the size of the boat....if you're caught out in serious weather, even in something much bigger than a 27 or a 30, size isn't going to save you. IF you've planned the passage, and have clear weather, the Newport 30 will get you there fine. Click to expand...

This Qualify as offshore A couple years ago a gentleman sailed a N30 from Annapolis around Fla, thru the Panama Canal to Hawaii, then to New Zealand. Met a honey and ended his quest to sail around the world to raise awarness for stoke victums. I've only sailed my 87 N30 on lake erie, and lake ontario, during a few storms with 8' waves, and had no fear the boat wouldn't handel the seas.  

Pogo-2 said: This Qualify as offshore A couple years ago a gentleman sailed a N30 from Annapolis around Fla, thru the Panama Canal to Hawaii, then to New Zealand. Met a honey and ended his quest to sail around the world to raise awarness for stoke victums. I've only sailed my 87 N30 on lake erie, and lake ontario, during a few storms with 8' waves, and had no fear the boat wouldn't handel the seas. Click to expand...

My best friend's father and his buddy actually took a Newport 30 from New York down to the Carolinas and then from the Carolinas to Bermuda and back - Last year I got the oppurtunity to check one out that another friend was looking at and it did not strike me as a boat built for offshore work - had a very light feeling to it - not saying anything was wrong with it but it struck me as a light weight coastal cruiser - just goes to show though that the possibility that anyone can take anyboat anywhere is true- one person can take a Newport 30 to Bermuda and be fine yet someone else has probably taken a 40' plus proven bluewater boat for a coastal cruise and sunk it...a lot more goes into a safe passage then the boat YET if I were going I would make damn sure the boat was up to it!  

With some more experience, and if the weather was ok, absolutely.  

Luck can be a big factor in any voyage. Some boats need MORE luck than others.  

better get going! No time to waste, if you recognize rangitoto in the back of my pic you'll see tallwaterII racing into new zealand. Finished my crossing from Oregon to New Zealand last year. Went with two great crew and only experienced faulty rigging from mauri Pro, and a whale strike. still made it safe and sound.  

Could? or Would? The Newport 30 Mk III is a blue water cruiser evidenced by a 70 gal water tank and a 32 gal fuel tank. Most boats that size have about 15 and 8 gallon capacities respectively. Didnt get the boat new, so not sure what the original looked like, but at somepoint the hull/deck joint was reinforced with glass mat. Adequate winches, but crappy deck hardware. Replaced traveler and jib cars immediately with garhauer stuff. Robust mast. My boat was weight for ORR at 8850 lbs. Perhaps boats that were considered lightweight were the Mk I or II. That being said, the boat has experienced 64 knot winds and several other squalls without so much as a wimper. Got a bloody nose from being run aground on an underground mountain and had to be pulled to repair and fair the front and bottom of the keel. No structural damage, no leak. Latest was a meteorological bomb experienced while crossing lake Mich last fall. 16 foot waves for a day, 8 - 10 for most of the trip. The crew suffered, but the boat was fine. So, the short answer is yes I would take the boat offshore. Long answer is, it would not be as comfortable as an island packet, but it would be more comfortable than a T-10. The boat can do it. The real question is the sailor and how comfortable he wants to be. As for size, it doesnt matter here. Any sailor undertaking an ocean passage should know enough weather tactics to avoid a hurricane. Eighty miles from the center is enough to get to winds around 40 knots, which is considered the minimum safe zone. Hurricanes come with adequate warning to do this. There is no luck. Only knowledge  

The Newport 30 is a good design lightly built. I passed on one for that reason. Large tanks do not make an offshore cruiser - solid construction does. Days of pounding will find the weak points, hull/deck join and bulkhead attachment. A good roomy coastal cruiser but not a good choice when one month of sailing offshore is equal to several years of weekend use.  

Has anyone ever documented any offshore trips in one? I hear a lot of people trashing them, but I have never heard of one being pounded to pieces during a crossing... I figure if someone can singlehand a rowboat across the Atlantic... I could take a Newport 30 on a crossing with a little planning. So, does anyone have a link to a story where someone lost a Newport 30? Now, Im not saying that the N30 is the ideal offshore choice, but I cant see it being a suicide mission either.  

Any reasonably well built boat can be modified for offshore use. But the less well built the boat is to start with the more work required to prep it for safe, comfortable offshore use. A large number of boats not designed for offshore use are built with bulkheads attached without full tabbing to the hull. These hulls will work a bit in rough going and offshore use translates into more wear and tear than the average weekend sailor will experience in many years. Cabinetry that is attached with a handful of screws and bulkheads that are not fully tabbed, companionways that are too wide, weak hull to deck joins and other weaknesses may never become apparent in a boat sailed in protected waters and lighter winds. The original poster was in an enviable position as he had not yet purchased his boat. If in that position it makes sense to buy a boat with little work required for offshore use rather than buy an unsuitable boat and spend time and money rebuilding it.  

n33 owner I have a 1988 Newport 33 and love the way it handles offshore in New England. Of course off shore to me is really a coastal cruise. I sailed from Block Island to Newport in 10-12 footers on the tail end of a hurricane one year in confused seas and it handled well with wind off the port quarter. I did turn into the wind and sail for about a mile to see how the boat would handle to windward. Once settled in 50 degrees or so off the wind i had little problems. I don't think I would take this around the world but can tell you it handles well and likes a good offshore swell. Michael in RI  

On the issue of offshore capability; one more data point is that an N-30 was raced from SF to Hawaii in the Pacific Cup. "Water Pik" owned by Bob Nance won the race in 1998 on corrected time. There were modifications to make the boat more robust. IIRC this was in the chainplate bulkhead areas to make them more secure. I'm sure there were other modifications also; as the boat was being raced/pushed for 3k miles.  

I don't think a Newport 30 is a bad sailing boat, even in rougher weather. Offshore use to me means cruising extensively away from ports and accumulating a decade of wear and tear every year or two. The Newport 30 is not built to withstand this as well as some boats are. Neither would a Catalina 30 be a good choice for this. Both are good sailing boats for daysailing, inshore and for short hops in good weather windows. Good choices would include Pacific Seacraft's boats, even the Flicka, as well as many others.  

Yes The older Newport 30 was built by Elgin National Industries, before they were bought out by Capital Yachts in 1971. Capital Yachts started to produce with more cost saving measures. Before and after, the boats are well built. Elgin marketed towards a more affluent buyer, and they were very expensive boats at the time. "It is easy to build an expensive boat but few people are willing to pay the price." I know of a 1969 Newport that was hit stern by a powerboat in an accident. The Newport sustained only minor damage while the powerboat crumbled. In general, many people would agree that the boats built in the late 1960's to early 1970's were stronger and built better then many of the boats built today. They don't make em like they use to.  

Yes The older Newport 30 was built by Elgin National Industries, before they were bought out by Capital Yachts in 1971. Capital Yachts started to produce with more cost saving measures. Before and after, the boats are well built. Elgin marketed towards a more affluent buyer, and they were very expensive boats at the time. "It is easy to build an expensive boat but few people are willing to pay the price." I know of a 1969 Newport that was hit stern by a powerboat in an accident. The Newport sustained only minor damage while the powerboat crumbled. In general, many people would agree that the boats built in the late 1960's to early 1970's were stronger and built better then many of the boats built today. They don't make em like they use to. Great boats, I love my Newport.  

I have a 1976 Mk II and it is a great boat for So Cal Catilna etc. I have had it in some mid 20's wind and it did fine but reef early The T pac not me but i could see the boat doing it certainly Cabo and back But like all things plan it  

I was a little surprised to see the comments by people that would not hesitate to sail this boat offshore. We owned, sailed, and lived aboard a Newport 30-II in Southern California for 3 years. While we found it to be a nice, fun, lively, light air boat for that area, once we had moved aboard with all of our belongings, the boat loaded down was an absolute dog that didn't sail worth a darn (in our opinion). Since long-distance cruising would necessitate a heavily loaded boat, you would be starting out at a disadvantage. They were designed to be racer/cruisers, not heavily laden cruising boats. With that nice wide beam it was definitely a roomy livaboard for a 30 footer though, and we did enjoy living on it. And it rolled in an anchorage like nothing I'd ever experienced. Something about that big round bathtub shape. In addition, we did find it to be lightly built. From inside the v-berth you could literally see sunlight faintly shining through the gelcoat and fiberglass. That being said, it is true that significant ocean passages have been made in a Cal 20, so with a masterful enough skipper and with a boat in sound condition, it can definitely be done. But I personally would not want to do it. For offshore work there are plenty of more suitable boats to be had. Unless someone is giving you the boat, why???  

oldragbaggers said: In addition, we did find it to be lightly built. From inside the v-berth you could literally see sunlight faintly shining through the gelcoat and fiberglass. Click to expand...

When I think of offshore, I'm thinking of survivability. Is that what you mean, or are you talking about durability over a long period of time. A circumnavigation in which you may want to think twice about a relatively flat bottom or are you just making a dash to the Bahamas or Hawaii where the weather window can be strictly considered and waited out. One side is the durability and if your adventure will be interrupted rudely by a significant repair bill, or if you are truly in an unacceptable rage of danger? So I'm in a quandary if a heavy and deep V hull typical offshore cruiser is necessary in these days of data communications via SSB A kind of turtle and hare comparison. Slow durable hare vs a faster rabbit. We can always fall back on the minimum risk profile, but can the risk be offset by significant improvement in offshore planning and strategy? I don't have the answer and I doubt if anyone else has a factual answer, but I would guess the answer lyes in the skippers judgement skill. I like allot of the characteristics of the Newport 30 III, just need to learn more about them.  

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• Sailboat Reviews

Newport 28/28 II

While initially there were questions about quality, the 28 is a good entry-level cruiser-racer for those on a budget..

The Newport 28 was one of the longer-lived small production cruising boats, having been in production from 1974 through 1987. Almost 1,000 of the C&C-designed boats were built by Capital Yachts of Harbor City, California.

There is a strong family resemblance between the Newport 28 and other C&C designs of the same period. In addition to the Newport 28, Capital built the Newport 41, another mid-1970s C&C design. The styling of both boats is characterized by the sweeping attractive sheerlines for which C&C is justifiably known.

As with any boat whose production run spanned more than a decade, many changes were made in the Newport 28, both outside and inside, over the years. The original scimitar-shaped keel and rudder gave way to more modern high aspect ratio appendages with 1983 models, increasing draft from 4′ 6″ to 5′ 2″. A shoal draft version drawing 4′ was optional, but

less popular than the deep-keel boat. Versions with the modern keel are designated Newport 28-II.

Sailing Performance

The Newport 28 has a tall, high aspect ratio masthead rig. The newer deep keel models are about six seconds per mile faster than the original version of the boat, which typically sails with a PHRF rating of 192. This is comparable to other cruiser-racers of the same size.

Despite a fairly high ballast/displacement ratio, owners report that the boat is tender. This is due in part to the fairly round midship section, and in part to the fact that few 28′ boats are really very stiff.

Racing in Newport 28s is quite keen in some areas, particularly on the West Coast, where there are large fleets that race both as one-designs and under PHRF. The boat is a competitive PHRF racer, and enough boats have been rated so that its handicap appears fair. This means you are likely to get a rating based on the boat’s performance, not on your own sailing ability.

Most owners report that the boat is very well balanced. This is typical of C&C designs, which usually have fairly small mainsails. With a large foretriangle and a small mainsail, it may be necessary to rake the mast aft slightly to give the boat a little weather helm. It’s far easier to add weather helm than to reduce it.

Construction

Make no mistake about it, the Newport 28 is a boat built to a price. A common complaint by owners is mediocre fitting of woodwork, leaking hull-to-deck joint, cockpit drains that are too small, plastic valves on through hull fittings, inadequate backing plates for hardware—in short, the entire litany of problems associated with boats built to be low in price.

One owner who races his boat hard noticed a large crack in the hull molding aft of the primary sheet winches, and discovered that he could see daylight through it. Apparently, the hull had been cracked in removing it from the mold, and the cracked patched over with auto body filler. This was on a new boat. The factory made good on that one.

Why would so many people buy a boat that apparently has a history of minor construction flaws and mediocre quality control?

The answer, according to owners, is that the basic styling, accommodations, and performance are better than other boats of the same size and type, making up for other shortcomings. When you buy a Chevrolet you know in advance that it isn’t going to be built like a Mercedes.

The interior is one factor that many owners report is a major influence in their decision to buy a Newport 28. With a waterline length of 23′ 6″, there’s a lot of interior for a 28′ boat.

Despite the fairly low freeboard and pronounced concave sheer, there is just over 6′ of headroom on centerline over the main cabin. The pronounced camber of the main cabintop keeps the deckhouse profile low, but at the expense of headroom, which diminishes very quickly away from the centerline. Fortunately, on a boat this small you’re almost always walking near the centerline.

There have been three basic interior arrangements over the years: galley along the starboard side of the main cabin, galley aft on the port side, and galley aft on the starboard side. On later models, only the two aft galley configurations were available. The galley aft on starboard side is the only layout that offers a stove with oven, due to the setup of the main cabin settees.

Unfortunately, this galley arangement required cutting away the starboard main bulkhead beneath the chainplates to make the starboard settee long enough for sleeping, which in our opinion is a structural compromise.

Since there are four other berths in the boat—two forward, the port settee, and a quarterberth—using the starboard settee as a berth isn’t necessary with anything less than a full crew. For family cruising, it is likely that at least one member of the crew would be short enough to use the starboard settee even without the foot extension.

Originally, the boat was equipped with the Atomic Four gasoline inboard, a standard engine in most auxiliaries until the proliferation of diesel power in the early 1980s. Diesel power was optional until the introduction of the 28-II model.

Some boats have Yanmar diesels, others Universal. It took the builder a while to decide which diesel engine to use, as owners report engines ranging in horsepower from 11 to 18. To most owners, there appears to be little difference in performance between diesel engines of various sizes. All of the Universal diesels should be adequate for the boat, and the Atomic Four is far more power than she needs.

Obviously, the diesel engine is a big plus when shopping for a used boat. Retrofitting a diesel on a gas-powered boat of this size is usually more expense than can be justified unless you’re planning to keep the boat for a long time.

Access to the engine for service varies from awful to good, depending on the model year. Fortunately, newer models have better access from the interior as well as a flush hatch in the cockpit sole directly over the engine.

Buying A Used Boat

Because so many owner complaints center on fairly mediocre construction detailing, a used boat should be carefully surveyed before purchase. Particular attention should be paid to structural details of the hull-to-deck joint, attachment of bulkheads, and mounting of deck hardware.

Obviously, a later model boat with a diesel engine is more desirable than an older boat with a gas engine. We would also consider the 28-II version with updated keel and rudder to be more desirable than the earlier design.

Because of the large number of Newport 28s built, at any given time there are a number of boats on the market. This means you should be able to find the combination of ingredients you’re looking for for in age, power plant, keel, and interior layouts—especially if you’re shopping on the West Coast.

It would be a good idea to look at all three interior arrangements before making a decision, although if you opt for a newer boat your choice will be between the two aft galley interiors.

Some of the boats have been seriously upgraded by owners, including such things as larger cockpit drains and higher quality hull hardware.

We would be wary about any boat that showed a lot of inexpert do-it-yourself characterisitics, such as caulking along the hull-to-deck joint, around the ports, or around the chainplates.

Although a tiller is standard, a fair number of boats have been equipped with wheel steering, either as an original option or as a retrofit.

The steering pedestal takes up far less room than the tiller, but it does require that the helmsman sit all the way in the back of the boat. While this arrangement keeps the cockpit less crowded for racing, it also puts all the helmsman’s weight at the aft end of the boat—not a good place for it.

In addition, the helmsman on a wheel-steered boat cannot reach either the mainsheet or the jib sheets, a serious shortcoming. He furthermore has trouble hiding from rain and spray under a companionway dodger.

Life for the helmsman on a wheel-steered Newport 28 will be a lonely one. Wheel steering, being hardly necessary on a boat this size, is hardly desirable on the Newport 28.

The Newport 28 is a good entry-level cruiser-racer for someone wanting a reasonable combination of accommodations and performance, as long as you’re not too persnickety about details. It would be a reasonable compromise for someone who likes more traditional appearance in a modern boat, but doesn’t have the money to spend for a higher-quality boat of the same size and type, such as a Sabre 28.

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1978 Capital Yachts Newport MarK II

• Description

Seller's Description

A 30’ PLUS A 2’ALUM SPRIT, very solid, good thick fiberglass blister free hull and no soft spots. Has a 2004 25 hp VETUS Diesel by Mitsubishi, runs good. Interior and cushions good cond, has lots of teak, and fullhead, 6-3 headroom, 4-7 draft. Has a 12 V Sea-frost deep plate freezer and a 12-110 v cube fridge, deep sink,3 solarpanels of 300watts and 4 trojan batterys, inverter,AirX-2 windgen on a tower ,ICOM Radio and a sony serius marine stereo ,a Garmin chartplotter and auto pilot ,radar , fishfinder,and 12 v windlass .i have the Sunbrilla bimini top and dodger needs repair and good side enclosers . Has a 3 point chain and dinghy- motor is optional. N-30-2s are great for single handed racing from the rear cockpit ,has the big steering wheel.

Equipment: A AIR X-2 on a corner tower, a big steering wheel, raytheon radar, chartplotter, fishfinder, auto pilot, vetus guages, 12v windlass ICOM and sony serius stereo ,many electronics and guages,some work, soe dont work

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Similar to the ISLANDER BAHAMA 30. TALL RIG: I: 40.00’/12.19m J: 12.80’/3.90m P: 34.00’/10.36m E: 11.50’/3.51m Tot. SA: 451.50 sq.ft./41.94 m2

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