capri 25 sailboat data

Capri 25 catalina

The capri 25 catalina is a 24.58ft masthead sloop built in fiberglass by catalina yachts between 1980 and 1986..

The Capri 25 catalina is a light sailboat which is a high performer. It is stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a racing boat.

Capri 25 catalina for sale elsewhere on the web:

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Fin w/spade rudder

Specifications CAPRI 25 (CATALINA)

1980 - 24.58 ft / 7.49 m - Catalina Yachts (USA)

CAPRI 25 (CATALINA) Sailboat Data

Hull Type: Fin w/spade rudder Rigging Type: Masthead Sloop LOA: 24.58 ft / 7.49 m LWL: 19.16 ft / 5.84 m S.A. (reported): 276.00 ft² / 25.64 m² Beam: 9.16 ft / 2.79 m Displacement: 2,950.00 lb / 1,338 kg Ballast: 900.00 lb / 408 kg Max Draft: 4.20 ft / 1.28 m Construction: FG Ballast Type: Lead First Built: 1980 Last Built: 1986 Builder: Catalina Yachts (USA)

Information from  sailboatdata.com .

Hull Speed: 5.87 kn

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I enjoyed your write up and enthusiasm. Capri 25's are very nice racer cruisers. They are still very competitive under PHRF and are fun to sail in most conditions. The only negative is that they are very dependent on having high quality genoas. Jeff  

Ya, the extra deck/cockpit space is worth the smaller cabin. I got a ton of sails with it, 13 total. have a racing 155, a cruising 155 in good shape, a cruising 130 in good shape, (along with an 80 and storm jib lol) and this 1.9oz light weight gennaker thing i havent pulled out yet, but it says "max 14 appr" so i cant wait to see how that one works. plus the actual asym of course. we were immediately thrilled with how much more tight and balanced the boat felt under sail. the spade rudder (vs transom hung) is awesome. light winds, only had it at about 4kts, but it sails so much better than the hunter obviously. Getting crew weight and transfers right is going to be a fun game for sure i think i got super lucky, and avoided grounding it right off the bat by mere inches, a couple buddies had to swim to the boat from the ramp since the dock wasnt pushed in the water. i motored back in close to pick them up and realized i was getting close to the concrete ramp, and turned 90 immediately within a foot of it and ran parallel with it to get back away from shore... the draft is 4.2 and i could not have been in more than 4.5 maybe 5' of water...before getting to the ramp. woops  

loving the mountains backdrops. postcard quality.  

what did you do to repair the cockpit drains? after a weekend of sailing i found water in the "bilge" where the battery is, as wekk as the "bilge" below the cockpit seats. my guess is water got in there, and leaked down to the battery area. i dont think its the knot meter or sink through hull, so im going to start with replacing the cockpit drains. Also had water in there (not nearly as much) after a week of heavy rain. Did you cut out the existing tubes? glass in some pvc? its set up now with blocks of wood sandwhiched between the cockpit and transom with the bronze tube between them  

Nice, I've raced with Ben on Little Wing a few times. Great guy. He mentioned on FB he was helping a friend look at a Capri 25. Congrats on the purchase.  

nice work on the tabernacle.  

I just changed the bulbs in the existing lights to LED, seemed to work well.  

the existing unit was effed, the lens was scratched and shady...after a new bulb id already be half way to the price of the whole new fixture, and it looks way better. Gotta polish up this old gal! wherever i can!  

IDtrucks said: . Do you know how hard it is to start a nut with one hand on your back when you cant even bend your hand past flat? Its almost impossible. Anyway, ill paint over the old holes soon too. Click to expand...

so, real annoying...i covered the repaired area in barrier coat prior to applying bottom paint. I waited till the barrier coat was the right "curedness" to apply the bottom paint for the best adhesion...but the barrier coat never dried flat. i used the recommended 3/8th roller and the roller texture was still there when i applied the bottom paint. So if i was applying barrier coat to the whole hull, based on what i saw id let it fully cure, so i could sand it smooth prior to applying bottom paint. Other things i read online indicated that people did not sand the barrier coat prior to bottom paint...so how did people get a good smooth surface with the barrier coat? Just use a super fine roller and do 7 coats? its totalboat barrier coat btw I have a race this weekend so i just said **** it ill wrap this up and maybe deal with it later but im not going to kill myself over it.  

OK, Love this thread, and have stalked Little Wing for a awhile! I have Lunacy, Hull #72.. Love these boats! Im abut to pull mine, and let her dry on the trailer..wanted to thank you for the pics of the mast step replacement , its on my list!! Jim DiSomma Fort Monroe VA PS. are you also in Seattle? We go to Whidby,visit family in the summer, may have to buy you guys a beer!  

Little Wing here! IDTrucks has done a bang up job on Capriola! We moved to Seattle last year so we don't get to race against them at Bear Lake anymore. But we got to reunite last Sept at Spud Cup in Sandpoint ID and doing it again in a month!  

Been several years, since being mainsheet tech ed for the Capri 25. Some things that really came up time and time again on the boats were, the spreaders (glad to see you addressed) and the compression post below. Seems the sloppy marine plywood base for the compression post disintegrates after 40 years, go figure! I've seen people do repairs with fiberglassing in G10. Obviously leaky chainplates and bulkhead rot are on the list. The scuppers are another big deal I'd say too if you do those, try to go bigger in diameter. The stock ones are what 1"? it takes quite a while if you broach for the cockpit to clear. Bigger is better on that. So I was re-looking at the keel fiberglass repair from a bit ago, and I have to ask, was there an issue you were addressing? I know its probably perspective, but are the keel guides partly to blame for some of the damage? I noted on my triad trailer I had for mine, the guides were siginifcantly lower, looks like yours are almost against the hull. That being said, the angle of the trailer and trying to get the boat on, the higher guide might actually help raise the bow up during restrieve. Retrieveing these boats to trailer is a real chore, even if you strap launch it. I stand by the fact though these boats are light air killers. They also hold up pretty well to some wind with the right depowering. I've gone the S2 7.9 route (for my second time), and I very much compare my Capri 25 to the S2 7.9. There are days I'd love to have my former boat back. In a lot of ways my S2 is "boring" compared to the Capri (the feel of the Capri was always more edge of the seat kind of fun). Boat for boat though the S2 is slightly faster in all but the lightest of winds (like splitting hairs slightly faster - a good Capri 25 sailor could easily eat my lunch). Either way I love the work you have done. Keep posting!  

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Owners Manual (New)

CAPRI 25 (CATALINA) Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of CAPRI 25 (CATALINA). Built by Catalina Yachts and designed by undefined, the boat was first built in 1980. It has a hull type of Fin w/spade rudder and LOA is 7.49. Its sail area/displacement ratio 21.52. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by undefined, runs on undefined.

CAPRI 25 (CATALINA) has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about CAPRI 25 (CATALINA) and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, contributions, who builds capri 25 (catalina).

CAPRI 25 (CATALINA) is built by Catalina Yachts.

When was CAPRI 25 (CATALINA) first built?

CAPRI 25 (CATALINA) was first built in 1980.

How long is CAPRI 25 (CATALINA)?

CAPRI 25 (CATALINA) is 5.84 m in length.

What is mast height on CAPRI 25 (CATALINA)?

CAPRI 25 (CATALINA) has a mast height of 8.08 m.

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Need help setting up Capri 25

• Thread starter Ljpotterm
• Start date May 25, 2019
• Catalina Owner Forums
• Ask A Catalina Owner

Thanks for accepting me as a member. I purchased a 1980 Capri 25 fixed keel, previous owner upgraded to a roller furling. The mast is raised but that’s all. Boom is not installed. Nothing is installed. I’ve searched for weeks trying to find any guides on setting up everything. I can tune the standing rigging myself. Everything else I need help with. Can you point me to any step by step guides please? Any help would be greatly appreciated. The previous owner is not available so I can’t ask him.  

I like that boat. I can't refer to a guide to set up but if you have all the parts (And that's not to be assumed) the next thing I would do is put the boom on. Hopefully there's a topping lift to hold the aft end of the boom up. You've got to look at the mast in the area of the boom mounting and the boom end that is at the mast. It should be somewhat obvious how they mate. Next go for the mainsheet because on unrestrained boom is a bit dangerous. I can't say much more without pictures of the hardware you have. BTW the spreaders seem to be angled down instead of up.  

it must be the camera angle. The spreaders are installed correctly.  

I found this link that will at least give you access to the owners manual (assuming you don’t already have it). http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/manbro/manbro.asp The manual has a photo of the traveler setup at the stern so that should help with getting the main sheet setup. Of course your boat might have been modified here as well (hard to tell without more pictures.) In the photo it also looks like the rudder isn’t mounted, might be a relatively simple place to start. I faced a similar problem with my first keelboat, lots of lines, pulleys and odd shaped bits. I asked an experienced sailor to come to the boat and help and after a few hours of head scratching and laughing at each other we had it rigged. I waited for a gentle breeze day before I went out to determine if we had it right, ended up “fixing” a few items and never looked back.  

Our club has an active racing fleet of 30 Capri 25s, but none post here. If you have a specific question I’ll pass it along. I see them every day.  

On the Catalina 22 the rudder is removable. It’s attached to the transom. On 25’s it goes through the floor of the cockpit. It’s only visible if you’re standing next to the stern. My biggest concern is properly attaching the boom to the mast. I’ll grab a couple pictures so you can see what I’m talking about.  

Interesting didn’t know that about the 25. Counts as my learn something new each day! Photos will definitely help. It would also help if you could provide a little background on your sailing experience as it would set the communication level.  

Stu Jackson

Hunter216 said: I found this link that will at least give you access to the owners manual (assuming you don’t already have it). http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/manbro/manbro.asp Click to expand

Besides the owner’s manual, Royce’s Sailing Illustrated will familiarize you with topping lifts, boom vangs, turnbuckles, chainplates, tillers, rudders, keels, dagger boards, center boards, barney posts, halyards, sheets, shrouds, cunninghams, pintels, gudgeons, jammers, travelers, cams, bailers, shackles, split rings, blocks, cleats, clutches, winches, goosenecks, outhauls, downhauls... whew! Gotta catch my breath! Shackles! Did I say shackles? I already said shackles. Specific boats have specific rigging, but once you understand rigging, every boat makes sense very quickly. Then, you can make the boat do what you want! I read Royce’s when I bought my US1 in ‘85. It was a wreck, but Royce’s made it make sense. I put that thing together and sailed the hell out of it! Try Royce’s if you are unsure what all the rigging does.  

agprice22 said: Besides the owner’s manual, Royce’s Sailing Illustrated will familiarize you with topping lifts, boom vangs, turnbuckles, chainplates, tillers, rudders, keels, dagger boards, center boards, barney posts, halyards, sheets, shrouds, cunninghams, pintels, gudgeons, jammers, travelers, cams, bailers, shackles, split rings, blocks, cleats, clutches, winches, goosenecks, outhauls, downhauls... whew! Gotta catch my breath! Shackles! Did I say shackles? I already said shackles. Specific boats have specific rigging, but once you understand rigging, every boat makes sense very quickly. Then, you can make the boat do what you want! I read Royce’s when I bought my US1 in ‘85. It was a wreck, but Royce’s made it make sense. I put that thing together and sailed the hell out of it! Try Royce’s if you are unsure what all the rigging does. Click to expand

Time to update. I understand the boom is supposed to slide up and down in its channel. My question is more about the mast. There’s a large slot to insert the boom gooseneck. There are about 8 holes around this slot as if some kind of plate is supposed to be attached. I posted a picture. Far below that is a screw. Is this to prevent the boom from sliding down too far? I attached a picture. I also attached pictures of the gooseneck assembly and the back stay. You can see it’s a split back stay. I assume the little carriage assembly is to adjust tension on the back stay while you’re sailing.  

Attachments

My sailing experience is with small boats like sunfish. Nothing this size. Nothing with 2 sails. I belong to a great club that is extremely active. They constantly encourage new members to ride along with older members so they can learn. My learning curve may be steep but I have a great support network. Lake Norman Yacht Club in Mooresville, NC. It’s a very active racing community.  

The boom is connected to a gooseneck that can be fitted in the mast track, but you should rig a downhaul to hold it in place at the least. The gooseneck is commonly bolted in place at the limit of the luff.  

Welcome @Ljpotterm and congrats on your new boat. She has the looks of a beauty.  

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• Sailboat Reviews

The Catalina 25

Like most catalinas, the 25 represents good value for the money, but sailing performance and construction quality are average at best..

[Updated December 6, 2018]

The Catalina 25 is not exceptionally fast, stylish, or spacious compared to newer widebody models, and while the construction and workmanship are adequate, they too are not exceptional. But because of the builders strict adherence to a philosophy of offering a relatively spacious design, relatively well made, at a reasonable price, and backing up the product with generally good customer service, the Catalina 25 has turned out to be one of the most successful small cruising sailboats ever built, with 5,332 boats sold between 1976 and 1990, when the company ceased producing the model as demand tailed off.

The Catalina 25 Design

During those 14 years of production, the design went through a complete metamorphosis, starting out as a very simple and inexpensive trailerable swing-keel design, and ending as a relatively sophisticated minicruiser. As vice-president and chief designer Gerry Douglas says, The last boats we built had diesel inboards, hot and cold pressure water systems, and extremely complex electrical systems. They were like little Catalina 34s. It was what people wanted in the late 1980s.

If you consider all model years, you can find Catalina 25s with five different keel configurations: cast iron swing-keel, cast iron fixed keel, cast lead wing keel, cast lead fin keel without glass jacket, and in later boats, a lead keel encased in fiberglass. In the later boats there was a choice of fin keel, wing keel, or swing keel, and standard rig or tall rig. However, the swing-keel model, with a board-up draft of 2′ 8″, accounted for well over half of total production. Most Catalina buyers over the years have been cruisers rather than performance-oriented racers, and for many cruisers, the attractiveness of a boat suitable for shoal waters and trailering is undeniable. Relatively few Catalina buyers are avid racers, it seems. If the hundred or so owners who answered our survey request are an indicator, only a small percentage rate as important either the fin keels much more efficient foil shape and lower turbulence, or the greater light-air efficiency of a two-foot longer tall rig mast that increases sail area by almost 10 percent.

As the design developed over time, features changed enough so that in a number of respects the early boats are very different than 1987 and later model years. As a consequence, its imperative for prospective buyers to know what model year theyre looking at when shopping for used boats. Prices can vary from less than $5,000 to more than $16,000, not only dependent on condition, but also model year and features.

For example, at various times there was a choice of two different interiors: a dinette arrangement, and opposing settees. A flip-top (Catalinas version of the pop-top), which provided standing headroom, was a popular feature that was optional until 1987, at which time it became standard. In fact, in 1987 the entire boat underwent a major design change, yielding among other things a more contemporary deck and a more refined interior, with less teak and more fiberglass.

Performance and Handling of the Catalina 25

The Catalina 25, with a PHRF rating of around 228 for the standard rig or 222 for the tall rig, is not especially fast for its size. In fact, the swing-keel version, which is noticeably slower upwind than the fin-keel version, probably deserves an even higher time allowance than its been given. The fin keel is generally acknowledged to sail close to its rating, at least once the breeze pipes up to 10 knots or so. The swing keel is not as hydrodynamically sleek, and the keel lifting cable is out in the open where it causes extra drag, intensified if seaweed gets hung up on it.

The boat (especially the keel version) balances relatively well, tracks satisfactorily, and is quite maneuverable if sails are properly trimmed; it can be unforgiving if they are not. Several owners com plained to us of a heavy weather helm in a breeze.

The tall rig is a bit more tender than the standard rig, but definitely adds speed in light air. One just reefs a little earlier to maintain helm balance. But despite its virtues, the tall rig has a drawback mentioned by several owners: Unless you have a sailmaker chop off the bottom 12″ of the sail, the boom swings too low over the cockpit. This, however, may be the fault of some sailmakers; the consensus is that Catalina-supplied sails were not as well-made or well-shaped as those obtained from other sailmakers.

Under power, the Catalina 25 will make about 5- 1/2 knots with a 6-hp. outboard, and you can coax an extra 1/2 to 3/4 knot or so out of the boat with an 8- hp. or 9.9-hp. engine. (Theoretical maximum hull speed in ideal conditions is around 6.3 knots.)

The outboard is mounted on a fold-up transom bracket mounted off center to accommodate the outboard rudder. Some owners complained that the motor is difficult to raise and lower. Others observed that, in rough seas, when the boat pitches, an ordinary 20″ shaft outboard prop has a tendency to ventilate, particularly if the auxiliary is used under sail and the boat heels away from the side on which the engine is mounted. The owner consensus is that a 25″ extra long shaft largely solves that problem.

An inboard diesel engine would also solve the problem, but is not recommended; an owner of a 1986 model equipped with a 10-hp. Universal engine reports his boat is very slow under power, at least with the two-blade prop hes currently using. A three-blade prop might help, but would also significantly increase drag under sail.

Another disadvantage of the transom-mounted outboard is that its difficult for the helmsman to control. One owner who told us hed rigged remote engine controls in the cockpit said, Its the best thing weve done.

The boat needs to be reefed in 15 knots of wind (a jiffy reefing main was standard in later boats, though a roller furler for the jib was not). Above 15 knots, weather helm becomes very heavy if the main is left unreefed; one owner observed that she tends to round up in strong winds, or if heeled more than 15 degrees.

A short traveler is integrated into the stern pulpit, and although this works well while cruising, and

permits use of a bimini to protect crew from too much sun, mid-boom sheeting and a mid-cockpit traveler work better for single-handed daysailing and racing. Consequently, many owners have added the inboard traveler, some with a snap-on mainsheet block so they can switch back and forth.

A peculiarity of the design is that the distribution of the boats components evidently caused listing, in some boats to starboard, in others to port. For example, in the 1981 dinette model, owners complained that the dinette, engine, fuel tank, galley, and head were all on the port side, causing the boat to list noticeably to port. Catalina evidently took these complaints to heart, but the results were not totally effective; an owner of a 1982 model complained that batteries, holding tank, and outboard on the starboard side produced a list in that direction.

Other owner responses to our questionnaire included the following:

The absence of a bridge deck is a possible safety hazard when sailing offshore in a big following sea.

Narrow (7″ wide) sidedecks make going forward somewhat difficult. So do the 22″ high stanchions when the boat is heeled, impeding passage forward on the high side; shorter stanchions would help, but wouldnt be as safe.

The lifelines don’t lead to the top of the bow pulpit, but instead run to the deck at the bow to provide a slot for a deck-sweeping genoa. This can make the foredeck area insecure in adverse weather conditions. Bails on the top of the pulpit and pelican hooks on the lifelines would be an improvement, since it would then be possible to raise the lifelines in heavy weather or when a high-clew jib is being used.

Catalina 25 Interior

Compared to other boats available in the 1970s an early 1980s, the Catalina 25 is relatively spacious below, though some readers complained that the aft double is really only a single quarter berth and that the port side settee berth is not long enough for an adult. Newer beamier designs, of course, have the advantage of more elbow room below.

At least one owner improved sleeping accommodations by building a plywood platform which fits between the table on the port side and the settee on the starboard. The aft berth cushion, under the cockpit sole, was shortened slightly to fit on this platform. When in place, the platform results in an athwartships berth about 6′ 4″ long and 5′ 1″ wide, big enough for a double sleeping bag. When not in use, the plywood platform stows on the aft berth.

Light and ventilation below is very adequate, as long as theres a breeze from forward. Because the forward hatch slopes down the forward edge of the cabin trunk, when open it becomes a very effective windscoop. Boats with pop-tops have additional ventilation.

The pop-top was an extra-cost option, and a very popular one. Reader praise of the pop-top is almost universal, with comments from Buyer interest is much higher on boats with pop-tops to Contrary to what some folks say, this pop-top does not leak in the rain or spray. Headroom is 6′ 4″ with the pop-top raised.

Until the 1983 model year, when the company redesigned the icebox so it would, as one owner reported, keep block ice for three days, the icebox was severely under-insulated; many owners reported that it would only hold ice for less than a day. Another complaint was that the icebox drains directly overboard, and as a consequence, if the drain is left open when the boat heels, water enters the icebox. One reader killed two birds with one stone: We keep our trash in the built-in cooler where it is out of sight, and use an Igloo cooler which is bigger and works better.

Construction of the Catalina 25

The Catalina 25 has a full fiberglass hull liner, which makes it easier to keep the boat clean but at the same time can make repairs and adding owner-installed custom components more difficult.

Several owners judged that Florida-built Catalina 25 hulls, though adequate in strength, are not as well finished as the California-built boats. And several others commented on gel coat chipping and cracking, voids, pits, and crazing, particularly in stressed areas such as at sharp changes of direction in the cockpit, and corners of hatch covers, though these problems didnt seem to be a function of builder location.

Bottom blistering seems to have been a fairly common problem on Catalina 25s when an epoxy bottom coat had not been applied under the antifouling paint to prevent water incursion. Catalina now has a 10-year no-blister warranty, but during the era of the Catalina 25, the company had a five-year warranty with gradually diminishing payments during the period. Judging from reader response to our questionnaire, some owners were not entirely satisfied with that arrangement.

In the swing-keel version, Catalina used an ordinary galvanized steel trailer winch to hoist the keel, and although there are no doubt some 20-year-old boats that still have the original winch, many owners have had to repair or replace some or all of it, particularly when the boat is sailed in saltwater.

Another problem with early swing keel models involved breaking the pennant. At the lifting point on the trailing edge of the swing-keel there is a tapped hole on a flat area into which screws a stainless steel eye. A swaged fork fits over the eye and pivots on it as the keel swings up or down. The factory fixed the eye in place with Loctite, but over the years the eye could rotate, so that the clevis pin became parallel to the keel instead of perpendicular to it. Then it would bind, and eventually end up bending and then breaking the wire at the joint of the wire and the swaged fitting. To solve the problem, Catalina came up with a device to keep the eye from rotating, but some older boats may not be retrofitted. Owners and prospective buyers of older boats should examine the swing keel to be sure the eye is solidly fixed in place.

Several owners complained that there is no mechanical lock to stop movement of the swing keel,

which even at anchor can move laterally in its trunk, banging, thumping, and making it, according to one owner, hard to sleep through the night. Catalina offers a retrofit kit to alleviate the problem, composed of nylon or neoprene washers -but according to some owners, this cure is only partially effective.

The surface of the cast iron swing keel was said by some of the performance-oriented owners to be comparatively rough as it came from the factory. They advise filling and sanding fair and smooth for better sailing speed. We would add that the keel should be checked regularly for corrosion, and an epoxy barrier coat should be maintained on the surface to prevent excessive rusting and deterioration.

Deck and cabin hardware, while generally adequate, is considered sub-par by some owners, particularly on the early models. For example, the type of closed-barrel turnbuckles Catalina used are hard to inspect without disassembly, and as a result tend to corrode internally, sometimes freezing or completely failing. Later models have the open-barrel type, which is preferable.

The forward hatch for several model years was attached with self-tapping screws rather than throughbolted, causing the hatch to become loose in some cases. By 1983, bolts had replaced the screws. Other relatively common complaints include rusty screws on deck fittings, broken boom goosenecks, insufficient bow eye backing plates, tillers splitting (on one boat the tiller split twice), and problems with rudders delaminating and splitting along the edge.

A particularly common problem noted is that rudder gudgeons and pintles break or come adrift

from the transom. The repair involves installing a handhole inspection port on the inside of the transom to gain access to the fastening bolts. One reader said his lower pintle had broken under racing conditions, but that he had cured the problem by adding a third pintle and gudgeon halfway between the top and bottom fittings.

Several other readers reported that their boats had loose gudgeon bolts, stress cracks in the transom at the gudgeon attachment points, and transom leaks. One owner reported the transom cracked below the motor bracket because of lack of reinforcement behind the bracket.

The hull-deck joint on some models used selftapping screws rather than through-bolts. Several readers experienced rain and spray leaks along the rail. Portlights also have been a source of leakage problems, as have cockpit scuppers, rudder gudgeons, and various pieces of dealer-installed deck hardware, mostly due, we guess, to inadequate bedding procedures and backup plates.

Trailering the Catalina 25

Despite the fact that a bare Catalina 25 weighs approximately 4,150 lbs., the boat plus trailer, loaded for a weeks cruise, can easily weigh over 6,000 pounds. That means its necessary to tow with a big pickup or van equipped with a towing package, and virtually eliminates prospective trailer-sailors who only have access to an ordinary passenger vehicle, no matter how powerful. (An exception: Big cars built before the advent of downsizing and integral frames. For example, one reader says he pulls his 6,000-lb. rig successfully with a 1973 Olds 98).

The Catalina 25s mast is deck-stepped on a hinge, but several readers complained that no factory method is offered to make mast-raising safer and easier. Still, some owners have devised their own systems, with which they seem to be satisfied. One who made extensive modifications figures it takes him a mere 45 to 60 minutes from the time he pulls into the parking lot at the launching ramp until hes sailing away-and only a little longer than that to reverse the procedure.

One reader pointed out that with the swing keel model the rudder is deeper than the retracted keel (unless its a folding rudder, which Catalina offered as an option in some model years), which can produce problems at the launching ramp under some conditions. Another owner feels that his fin-keel is as easy to ramp-launch as a swing keel, provided an extra-long trailer tongue extension is used. We think that might be true on some ramps, but not on others.

If youre shopping for a Catalina 25 already equipped with a trailer, check the GVWR (Gross

Vehicle Weight Rating) decal before you buy. It indicates the loaded weight of the trailer in pounds, i.e. the sum of the carrying capacity of the trailer plus the weight of the trailer itself. One reader ordered (from a Florida dealer) and paid for a trailer with a 7,000 lb. capacity rating. What he got was one rated for only 5,000 lbs. He was prompted to check the decal because, he says, The trailer looked skimpy. He weighed the combination with the boat stripped and it came to 5,620 lbs. The dealer claimed it was the same trailer they always use for this boat an the dealer passed me off to the Florida plant, who passed me off to the trailer manufacturer, who finally made good after Frank Butler got into the act-after seven months of hassling.

New or unseasoned sailors making their first or second foray into the boat-buying game may find that the Catalina 25 is an attractive choice. The boat is relatively easy to handle, can be single-handed without too much trouble, and while not fast in the racing sense, is fast enough to satisfy many cruisers. The interior is big enough for two to cruise in relative comfort, while the overall size of the boat is not daunting to most newcomers to the sport. Other advantages for new sailors are that Catalina, in most cases, does a good job with customer service, and theres a quarterly 100-page glossy publication for all Catalina owners (from 8′ Sabots to all the way to Catalina 42s) called Mainsheet which offers support and helps to keep communications open between owners.

Asking prices on used Catalina 25s range from around $4,000 for older (late 1970s) models that probably need some work, to around $16,000 for newish (late 1980s) models fully equipped and in like-new condition, probably with an inboard engine and a trailer included. A price of $7,000 to

$8,000 is typical for early to mid-1980s boats, though we noticed a wide range, presumably based on condition and accessories.

Prospective buyers should check for bottom blisters (which can be expensive to repair), evidence of problems around the keel bolts or pivot on the swing keel, rudder connection problems, cracks in turnbuckles or rigging terminals, leaks around windows and hull-deck connection, and other common (and correctable) flaws.

Also check for which of the many extra-cost options have been installed-options which many experienced sailors would say should have been standard: boom vang, genoa winches, pop-top with canvas enclosure (originally two separate options), basic electrical system with running lights and cabin lights, galley equipment, head, lifelines and stanchions, and sails. Check especially the brand of sails; many readers report that they have been dissatisfied with Catalinas own brand of sails.

Overall, we think the Catalina 25 is not fancy or fast, but is economical, a fair sailer, and roomy for its size-a good boat for non-racers who don’t have a big budget and for relatively new sailors who want to get their feet wet in the sport.

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12 comments.

Mr Nicholson,

Thank you for the report on the Catalina “25” I’ve Been searching for an older (less expensive) under 30’ single handed sailboat for the past several months and finally today someone posted a Catalina 25’ on buy, sell, or trade in the Destin Florida area. The elder gentleman wanted to restore it but a bad hip has preventing that, so he sold it to me. I started sailing about 20 years ago with a Balboa 27’ with a swing keel (what a life saver). Lost it in the divorce. There are many sand banks and shoals here in Choctawhatchee Bay and a swing keel is what a newbie needs. I don’t think this Catalina has a swing keel, at least I don’t see the crank in the cabin. The ships dimensions in your report help immensely. I have not done an inventory yet on board (they left a lot of stuff) I hoping the main is useable and I have already inspected and cleaned the storm jib, I don’t see a Genoa (Bimini) or any other jib sail hidden away. Anyways, thanks for your report I look forward to getting it under sail.

We’ve had a 1985 Catalina 25 swing keel since 2006. I’ve sailed a lot of different boats over more than fifty years. This boat has been a good investment for fun and reliability. I’ve never reefed in the near fifteen years sailing it on the Monterey Bay. We’ve burried the rails on more than one occasion and while it does weather helm in heavy winds, it’s easily managed and I’ve never been worried about a knockdown.

Have 1985 Catalina 25 swing keel, #K4978. I don’t know if it’s the standard or tall rig. Can I tell from the HIN#?

i am new owner of a 25ft 1981 catalina and i need 1 simple measurement .. height of wing keel from the bottom of keel to the bottom of the boat as i am building a trailer to get it home with..

sorry fin keel

I am looking to buy a fixed keel Catalina 25. The keel seems short ar 4 ft when I would have expected 5 ft for a boat this size. My question is does this make the boat more tender with ballast less lower in the keel. And how does this affect performance say against the swing keel model

Did you get to sail ‘er this summer? We have a 1980 fin keel and as long as your co-captain doesn’t mind 10 to 15 degree heel, you’re not afraid to reef the main in a blow and you’re not sailing in a hurricane, you’ll find that 4 feet of keel is plenty.

Hi Peter, We’ve had our 1986 C25 SR SK for four years now. Our mooring mates have an 81 TR FK and we oftentimes run them together. While the Tall Rig makes theirs a little tender, proper trim seems to mitigate most puffs. As for our Swing Keel, typically deployed fully, we notice we cannot point as high but routinely we are keeping up around 6kts. I do notice in the SK, with the other owners aboard, that we have gain positive comments for our sails so I guess that is where you have a tough time making scientific comparisons, lots of variables. We have an even less fair comparison, a C25 Capri who has newer nicer sails and a seasoned skipper who wins most regattas and that fin easily allows him to point with a larger sail plan. The more I write, the less I think this will help you; however, for a swing keel, we’re plenty happy from a non-competitive perspective and don’t have envy/regrets when looking on those with fixed.

We have a Catalina 25 from 1983. We are in a humid area. We love the boat! Our son wants to add an air conditioner of some form to make it more tolerable to sleep on hot nights. I do not want to overwhelm the interior where I sit at the table to prepare meals and do artwork. What suggestions might you have for our situation? Thank you!

Pardon it is an 89 not an 83 Catalina !

I have a 1985 22ft and the cable for the keel broke can this be loaded onto a trailer?

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Catalina Capri 26

Catalina Capri 26 is a 26 ′ 1 ″ / 8 m monohull sailboat built by Catalina Yachts starting in 1990.

• 1 / 3 Buford, GA, US 2024 Catalina Capri 26 USD View
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Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Wing/shoal draft:3.42’/1.05m.

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