West Wight Potter 19 Sailboat Review

An Easy Sailing Boat

© Judy Blumhorst

The West Wight Potter 19, like its smaller sister the 15, has been a popular pocket cruiser sailboat for over three decades. Inspired by an original design in the U.K., it is now built by International Marine in California. A number of improvements have been made over the years, while the boats still retain the original look and have attracted a large, dedicated group of followers. They are still shown at select major boat shows in the U.S.

The Potter 19 is popular not only because it's a tough little boat that is easy to sail but also because it's a lot of boat for its length. Its hard-chine hull offers good stability and has a high freeboard to help keep the cockpit dry, and it's a very easy and forgiving boat to sail. The cabin is big enough for a couple to "camp" in comfort for short cruises. The Potter 19 has even been sailed across the Atlantic and from California to Hawaii!

Description and Features

Description.

  • Length overall: 18 feet 9 inches
  • Length waterline: 16 feet 4 inches
  • Beam: 7 feet 6 inches
  • Draft 6 inches (keel up), 3 feet 7 inches (keel down)
  • Displacement: 1225 lbs
  • Keel weight (ballast): 300 lbs
  • Mainsail: 89 sq. feet
  • Headsail: 53 sq. feet (jib), 93 sq. feet (genoa)
  • Mast height: 22 feet above deck, about 27 feet above waterline
  • Standard trailer weight: about 500 lbs
  • Can be found used in good condition for about $5000 and up

Key Features

The following comes standard with a new Potter 19 in the select package. Not all features were standard in previous years, so used boats may vary.

  • Galvanized keel retracts vertically with easy-to-use cockpit winch
  • Kick-up rudder allows for beaching
  • Anchor rode locker with hawsepipe/air vent
  • Mahogany companionway door
  • Adjustable transom motor mount
  • Teak handrails on cabin top
  • Stainless steel swim/boarding ladder
  • Running lights, anchor light
  • Butane-canister single-burner stove
  • 15-gallon water system with deck fill
  • Sink with hand pump
  • Marine porta-potty in built-in cabin area
  • Custom galvanized trailer
  • Stainless steel mast crutch (for trailering)

Optional Features

  • Opening ports with screens
  • Built-in 36-quart cooler
  • Jiffy reefing system
  • One-person mast-raising system
  • Colored hull and/or deck
  • Colored sails
  • CDI furler for headsail
  • Singlehanders package (lines to cockpit, etc.)
  • Genoa winches
  • Asymmetrical spinnaker

Sailing a Potter 19

Because it is a small, lightweight boat, the Potter 19 is easy to trailer without a special vehicle. The deck-stepped, hinged mast can be raised by one person with the mast-raising system, or two without, making it a simple matter of less than an hour's work to do everything before launching. Since the boat draws only 6 inches with the keel raised and the rudder hinged up, it launches easily at almost all boat ramps.

Many owners have led the lines to the cockpit to enable sailing without having ever to go up on deck, assuming you have the CDI furler as most owners do. Even to raise the mainsail without the halyard routed aft, a tall sailor can stand inside the cabin on the side berths just behind the mast and easily pull up the main and cleat off the halyard. Sail slugs attached to the boltrope are advised and make this a one-handed operation that takes only seconds.

The hard chines of the hull mean that the boat is slower to heel much beyond 10 to 15 degrees than boats with a rounded or V hull, and the chines also tend to throw bow spray out to the sides instead of back toward the cockpit. The trade-off, the one disadvantage when sailing, is that the boat pounds its nearly flat hull when sailing into waves or the wakes of other boats.

On any small sailboat, it is important to position crew and passenger weight to advantage (i.e., most weight on the windward side to minimize heel), but this is not a problem with a cockpit large enough for four adults to be comfortable. The relatively heavy drop keel, unlike the lighter centerboards of many trailerable sailboats, provides good, deep ballast for increased stability. Under full sail with a genoa, the boat may begin to heel excessively with the wind over about 12 knots, but the main is easily reefed and the jib partly furled to reduce heel. The P-19 moves well in as little as 5 knots of wind and quickly reaches its hull speed around 5.5 knots in a 10-knot breeze.

Most owners power with a 4 to 6 HP outboard. The long-throw adjustable motor mount allows using either a short- or long-shaft outboard. Unless there are significant waves or a strong headwind, the boat powers easily at 5 knots with the engine well under half power.

The Potter owners association includes many stories written by different Potter sailors about their experiences. There are very few reports of capsizing or serious problems, always due to a mistake by the sailor, such as forgetting to lower the keel or cleating the sails in tight and then turning broadside to the wind. When sailed correctly, the Potter is probably safer than most sailboats of its size. A brand-new sailor, as with any sailboat, is advised to have some form of sailing instruction before venturing out the first time, but the Potter 19 is a good boat on which to learn the basics.

The Interior of a Potter 19

The Potter 19 makes good use of its interior space. Although cruising on any small sailboat tends more toward camping than the luxury of walk-around space as on a larger cruising boat, the Potter 19 is more comfortable than others its size. Its four berths are all almost 6 and a half feet long, and there is good storage underneath. Still, it would be a rare foursome that would cruise more than a night or so. But there is plenty of room for two to sleep and use the other berths for gear duffels and provisions.

The single-burner butane stove works well for one-pot meals, and the sink is handy for limited use. (There is not a through-hull drain, however: you carry off or dump your "gray water" from its reservoir bag.) Many owners have been quite creative in arranging storage bins and otherwise making use of the available space. A cooler can be slid under and behind the companionway steps, for example, if your boat lacks the built-in cooler.

Bottom Line

Of the wide variety of small trailerable sailboats on the market, the Potter 19 better meets the needs of owners who want to do some cruising than almost others, which at this length are typically designed more for daysailing than overnighting.

Because Potters have been around so long, it is not difficult to find one used in many areas. But because they are also very popular within their niche, they also sell at somewhat higher prices than other trailerables even up to 22 feet or more. If you can afford it, it's worthwhile to stretch for Potter if you like its looks and want its space - you won't be disappointed.

If you’re thinking about a trailerable sailboat like the Potter 19, remember that one of the great advantages is the ability to easily take it to other sailing destinations, such as heading to the Florida Keys in the winter.

See the manufacturer's site for more information.

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Yachthub

West Wight Potter 19 Boat Reviews

Boat Review Date: November 2009 Author: Mike Brown Overview

A 21 st century trailer sailer. It might not have the catchiest of names, but I found everything else about the West Wight Potter 19 delightful. The concept of trailer sailers has always struck me as a good one, and I have never worked out why interest in them died. I am happy to say to this one, “Welcome back.”

West Wight Potter 19' Image 1

And boy, have they come on in the meantime. The typical trailer sailer of the 70s was skimpily finished, had so-so fittings and equipment, and many of them sailed poorly. An exception that comes to mind was the Windrush centre cockpit boat, a very good sailer but on the claustrophobic side for cruising - something the Potter is not. This boat has excellent sailing ability, top of the range gear, first class finish, day and night space for four, and a good cruising fit-out – all within an overall length of only 5.64m.

And for a price of $39,500, it is worth mentioning. How much powerboat would you get for that? And what would the relative running costs be? The review Potter had a 5hp Suzuki on the back, and the brief time it would run each trip would add up to small change in a year.

Costs aside, this is a great little yacht in its own right. Hard chined instead of the near universal round bilge, it has buoyancy in useful places. With three large males in the cockpit it did not drag its tail, and when hit by gusts the heeling was surprisingly limited. The drop keel also helped there; unlike the usual swing keel it is a dagger board of 19mm galvanised plate that lowers to a respectable 1.09m draught. It is raised and lowered by a winch next to the helmsman and, once down, is secured in place by four Highfield clips.

The dagger board case takes up little cabin space and forms part of the structure of the moveable table, although the cockpit table is likely to get more use. This other table is an ingenious part time use of the washboard at the cabin entrance.

The cabin, Tardis-like, has room for an astonishing number of items. Bunks forward, converting to a double bed; bunks aft extending under the cockpit seats; a one-burner stove, a sink and an icebox; a chemical toilet; a battery and 12v outlet, and there is even a reasonable amount of storage space. The whole interior is easy to clean because the hull is double-skinned with foam filling (importers Seagreen Marine specified the optional heavy lay-up for the outer skin), giving a smooth and hard surface except for the carpeted headliner. Oiled timber trim relieves any starkness.

This is a genuine weekend cruiser for a family or even two adult couples. Locally its natural grounds would be between Yanchep and Mandurah, and its easy trailing means they could be one-way trips. Trailing weight is 980kg on the braked trailer, so it is towable by practically any car. And portability extends its stamping ground to anywhere in Australia; Shark Bay and the Montebellos are obvious targets, and one prospective owner has Lake Argyle in mind. En route, the Potter makes a great caravan.

For most of it life, though, a Potter 19 will be a day boat, like typical trailable power cruisers, and it needs some sparkle in its performance to do the job. A generous sail area is a good start; Seagreen bring the Potter in with the biggest headsail option, and mount it on a furler. Combined main and genoa area is 181sq ft in old money – an exceptional power: weight ratio for this class of boat.

The rigging supporting the sail area is simple: forestay, backstay and single shrouds. Getting the mast up from its neatly designed supports is just about as simple. The builders supply a set of gear along the same lines as the A-frame for raising and lowering masts of cruisers at the Fremantle bridges, but with two halfway fit adults available it is easier to do it handraulically. There is no great muscle power needed, and I timed the job at less than ten minutes.

The Suzuki motored us clear of the ramp with urge to spare, but I suspect the suggested minimum 2hp would be gasping into any strength of wind or current. We then had the use of a 10-15 knot breeze and exposed the full sail area to it.

The results were very good: we could sustain five knots and reached a peak of 6.2 in the gusts. We were up to hull speed but that big headsail became fairly hard work. The sheeting arrangements would have suited the smaller sail options and the generally lighter US east coast winds, but more purchase was needed here. Nice gear like sheet tracks and low friction blocks was laid on, but only a single whip purchase and no winch. No one would want to complicate things with a winch, but Seagreen’s Steve Green intends converting all the Potters’ headsail sheets to a 2: 1 purchase.

The cockpit works well. Four could comfortably sit in it, and there is nothing interfering with movement. There are no cavernous storage bins (and who needs them), but there is a useful transom locker. There are also fore and aft grab rails, and access to a boarding ladder.

The headsail furler proved its worth even more than on a bigger cruiser. Getting to the foredeck was OK but needed full use of all the handholds, and going via the fore hatch instead to bring the sail down would have been fiddly. Much easier to slack the sheet and haul the furler line. Where you need the fore hatch is for anchoring. Unlike many US trailer boats the Potter has a good capacity cable locker, also reachable through a hatch within the cabin, and the anchor is provided with a clip on the pulpit – a simple and effective piece of stowage.

The single most impressive pieces of hardware on board are the opening ports. Massively strong, spring loaded and equipped with powerful dogs and flywire, it would not look out of place on a destroyer – except for the shiny finish. But everything else on board seemed to have a healthy safety margin too, especially the chain plates, which past trailer sailers specialised in under-engineering

I looked around for maintenance items, but apart from the varnished tiller nothing needed periodic re-coating. Some oil here and there, emptying of the toilet and some hosing and sponging seem to about cover the rest of it. I am completely sold on the Potter 19, and I despair for the taste of our boating population if it does not sell in numbers. It was one of the few review boats I had to be politely ejected from. I did not want to go home.

SPECIFICATIONS

Model:                                              West Wight Potter 19

Overall length:                                  5.64m

Beam:                                              2.29m

Draught:                                           0.10m (keel up)

                                                        1.09m (keel down

Boat weight:                                     468kg

Keel:                                                136kg

Sail area:                                          Main 8.18sqm

                                                        Genoa 8.46sqm

Fresh water capacity:                          57l

Motor fitted                                        5hp Suzuki 4-stroke

Price as reviewed (plus motor):           $39,500

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  • Sailboat Guide

West Wight Potter 14 (Gunter-C Type)

West Wight Potter 14 (Gunter-C Type) is a 14 ′ 6 ″ / 4.4 m monohull sailboat designed by Stanley T. Smith and built by Ring Marine (UK) starting in 1968.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

  • SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
  • D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
  • LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
  • LOA: Length overall in feet
  • Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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west wight potter sailboats

west wight potter sailboats

Cruiser Challenge XX

As of 2024, annual dues are still $50 per family, payable by check to "Potter Yachters". We are now able to take payment via Zelle. Please for details.
Also available for $20 is a member packet of interesting stuff about Potters, including by De Marsh. This packet contains historical material, and may be of particular interest to P-15 owners.

Checks should be made out to and sent to:

Potter Yachters
  c/o Phil Marcelis, Secretary/Treasurer
3710 Lone Tree Way, Suite 493
Antioch, CA 94509

The is the club's monthly newsletter. It is now available for free by clicking on the News Letters box above.

)

Burgees are available to members only, so you'll need to join first. (See above) , to:

Potter Yachters
  c/o Phil Marcelis, Secretary/Treasurer
3710 Lone Tree Way, Suite 493
Antioch, CA 94509

us your questions, comments, or other info, and put "potterpage" in the subject. We will try to answer questions or add any new info as fast as we can.























: This document was written in 2003, and not substantially revised since then. It is probably fairly accurate with regards to boats made up to that date. Much of the information here may apply to newer models, but readers having questions relating to newer boats should use the information here with care.

: Every effort has been made to assure the accuracy of the information presented here, but the author cannot guarantee its accuracy, nor assume any responsible for its application, use, or misuse. All information is provided without warranty of any kind. Use it at your own risk.

The questions here were mostly culled from the West Wight Potter forum at www.trailersailor.com/forums/potter. Answers were compiled based on answers provided by knowledgeable forum visitors, the International Marine Web site, and other authoritative sources.





West Wight Potters are small, single-mast, retractable-keel sailboats designed for easy trailering and casual cruising in protected and semi-protected waters. They are "pocket cruisers," providing adequate short-term sleeping and living accommodations for a couple or perhaps a small family, depending on the model.


In the United States, Potters are currently manufactured by (IM) in Inglewood, California. They are also manufactured in England by Pot Wight Marine, which is not affiliated with IM; however, the English boats differ substantially from the American boats. Unless otherwise noted, all information in this FAQ pertains to the American made Potters.


IM currently makes two models: The Potter 15 (P15) and Potter 19 (P19). The P15 is 15 feet LOA, has a swing keel, and sleeps two. The P19 is 18'-9" LOA, has a drop keel, and sleeps four. These LOA measurements include the outboard motor mount, which is included as standard equipment on all new Potters.


The Peep Hen and ComPac 16 are somewhat similar to the P15. The P19 is sometimes compared to the Catalina 22, Hunter 20, and ComPac 19. However, in none of these cases are the similarities especially strong.




You can tow a P15 with just about anything with four wheels, practically speaking. Most compact cars work fine, especially if you are towing over relatively flat ground. To tow a P19 safely you need something with a bit more wheelbase and horsepower. Mini-vans, light pickups, and old station wagons are all popular P19 tow vehicles. Automatic transmissions are preferred over manual transmissions, and a transmission cooler may be a good idea if you plan to tow over long distances. Consult the owner's manual for your vehicle for towing restrictions and requirements.


The P15 combo without any added gear weighs around 900 lbs. The P19 combo without added gear weighs about 1800 lbs. These weights are from published specifications and apply to the standard boat/motor/trailer combinations as currently delivered. Based on input from owners, we guess their weight when fully equipped with typical gear to be closer to 1100 and 2200 lbs., respectively. Older boats may be slightly heavier.


Trailer brakes are always recommended, and are required by law in some states. Your vehicle manufacturer may also specify trailer brakes as a basic towing requirement. In practice, it seems that most P15 owners don't have brakes on their trailers, but some P19 owners do.


A Type II or type III hitch with a standard 2" ball will work with either the P15 or P19 trailers. Electrical connection is via a "flat five" connector.


It depends on the trailer axle height relative to your tow bar. The Potter trailers are not set unusually high or low. If you have a hitch, your local Draw-Tite dealer can look up the recommended draw bar for your vehicle in their catalog. Other hitch manufacturers probably have similar references.


Most commercial trailers are adjustable in several different ways. If the trailer has a moveable axle, moving the axle forward or back is probably the best way to adjust tongue weight. You can also adjust the position of the trailer winch post, but take care that you do not move the boat so far back that the trailer lights are obscured or that you exceed the maximum overhang allowed by law in your area.


The Baja trailer is wider, 250 lbs. heavier, has larger tires, longer bunks, and carries the boat 8" lower for easier launching. All added weight is steel.


Maybe, if the beach is firm enough to avoid getting stuck and has a reasonable slope. P15 owners often launch without a ramp. The added weight of the P19 makes beach launching a bit more problematic. Having a tilt trailer can make beach launching and retrieval easier.


If your trailer has a bunk to support the keel you should use it. After loading the boat on the trailer, remove the keel support bolts and lower the keel onto the bunk, leaving very slight tension on the support cable to keep it from fouling. Don't forget to raise and lock the keel up before launching.

If you don't have a support bunk for the keel, keep it raised and with the support bolts in place while trailering. Don't rely on the winch to hold the keel up for any extended period.


After the boat is on the trailer you should secure the keel, remove the outboard motor, lower the mast and secure it, secure or remove all loose gear, and attach tie-down straps to secure the boat to the trailer. This covers the major points. A complete trailering checklist is a bit too complex to include here


The P15 will fit in a typical single car garage. The P19 is a close call in most garages, but if you have a removable or swing tongue on your trailer and a good-sized garage the boat will probably fit. Here are the dimensions of the boat/trailer combination:

 

 
   

Height is measured to the top of the bow rail, which is the highest point on the boat with the mast completely removed. Length is measured from the tip of the tongue to the back of the motor mount; a swing tongue can reduce the length by about 18" when fully retracted.

You can run into problems if your driveway has a steep slope or sharp turns. Don't rely solely on measurements. Back into your garage very carefully the first time with an observer watching.

Most owners repack the bearings at the beginning of the season. Detailed instructions are available from most trailer manufacturers, and at various places on the Web.

To reef, lower the mainsail until you can hook the grommet at the sail's leading edge onto the reefing hook on the boom, pull the reefing line tight, and cleat it off. If you have sail slugs, you will have to remove the sail stop to let the bottom slug or two out of the sail track and then reinstall the sail stop, otherwise the grommet won't reach the reefing hook. Optionally, you can bundle the loose sailcloth up using lines (called "bunt lines") tied through the middle grommets. Tie the lines around the sail only, not around the boom. Some owners install a second reefing line at the leading edge of the sail and use it instead of a reef hook. This facilitates reefing from the cockpit if the rig is modified to lead all control lines aft. The reefing procedure is the same, except that instead of hooking the reefing grommet into the reefing hook the operator simply pulls the forward reefing line tight while loosening the halyard.

For more information on reefing in general, see this document provided by Pineapple Sails.

Remember that is is always easier to reef early than late. If you think you might experience high winds or gusty conditions later in the day, you might just want to put in the first reef at the dock.

Wind alone probably won't do it: Potters tend to heel sharply and turn into the wind when overpowered, then come upright with the sails flapping. In the known cases where a boat was capsized some other factors were involved, usually involving poor sail handling, poor load balance, or similar operator error. One owner confessed to raising the main with the keel up, a near guarantee for a capsize if there is much wind.

The seriousness of a capsize can be greatly reduced if you can prevent the boat from turtling (turning upside down). Keeping the cabin hatches securely closed during heavy weather is very important. If the cabin stays dry the boat may right itself after a knockdown. Keeping the keel locked down is also important, since it can enter the cabin with considerable force if the boat turns over and the keel is not secured.

For more information on the known cases of turtled Potters, visit the Turtle Tales page, maintained by the Potter Yachters .

  • Adding floatation material is always a good idea. Filling the mast and boom with Styrofoam noodles and sealing them as well as possible will help keep the mast from sinking, increasing the chances of righting a boat that has been knocked flat on the water.
  • Increasing the cockpit drain size will let the cockpit drain faster, which will help the boat right itself after a knockdown.
  • If you routinely sail in strong winds, you might want to add a second set of reef points in the main.
  • If your only headsail is a lapper and you do not have roller furling, you should add a standard jib to your sail inventory.

If you just want better access to the throttle, you may be able to rig a remote throttle. The tiller-to-throttle connection on Nissan outboards is via a motorcycle-type cable, which might not be too difficult to extend outside the motor case. There are no owner reports on this modification, however.

Note: Derek Jensen reported making a "refueling" tank for a motor that had an internal tank, by connecting an external tank to a spare gas tank cap. To refuel, he removed the gas tank cap from the motor's internal tank and replaced it with the gas cap connected to the external tank, then squeezed the primer bulb on the external tank until the internal tank was full. This technique may be worth further investigation if you already have a spare external tank and don't want to change the fueling arrangement inside the motor. Further information regarding the modification is available on the Northwest Potters Web site.

One rule of thumb states that a regulator is required if the output of the solar panel exceeds 1.5% of the battery capacity. For example:

  • 100 amp-hour battery
  • 15 watt solar panel
  • Panel output in amps = 15 watts / 12 volts = 1.25 amps  (current = power divided by voltage) 
  • 1.25 / 100 = 1.25% , so a charge regulator is not required.

But the time to bring the battery to a full charge in this case is significant. If you assume the battery is 20% discharged:

  • 100 amp-hour battery 20% discharged = 20 amp-hours
  • 20 amp-hours / 1.25 amps = 16 hours

If you assume 6 hours of full sunlight exposure per day, the battery will take nearly three days to recharge. This may be fine for weekend sailors but a bit marginal for someone staying on the boat for several days in a row, especially if the electrical accessories see much use. Also note that "full exposure" means just that: even a shadow falling across part of the panel will reduce its output below the rated output. The panel will put out some current with very little light, but will only deliver rated power if it is completely exposed on a clear day with the sun almost at high noon. Most panels also deliver slightly less power as they age.

Visit Northern Arizona Wind and Sun for more information on solar battery charging and compatible batteries. Also see the Gaiam/Real Goods Information Center for information on renewable energy sources and systems, including wind powered and photovoltaic systems.  

  • Running lights: 0.5 amps
  • Anchor light: 0.25 amps
  • Masthead light: 0.25 amps
  • Cabin dome light: 1 amp

The current was determined by measuring the voltage drop across a 1.5 ohm 1% resistor inserted in the positive lead from the battery. The results are probably within 10% of what you can expect on a similarly-equipped boat.

  • Try plain fresh water first, or mild soap (Ivory, for example) and water.
  • White vinegar and water is good for many typical cleaning chores and will remove some stains.
  • Car washing detergent is safe on all exterior surfaces, and does not attack wax.
  • Spic and Span works pretty well for general cleaning, especially teak, and won't hurt anything, but it does tend to remove wax.
  • Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol will remove most stains from plastic and fiberglass and is safe on most surfaces.
  • Odorless paint thinner is good for removing dried glue and the like, and is generally safe, but should be tested for surface compatibility on a small area where it won't show before using it to do any real cleanup.
  • Acetone does a good job on gel coat and the vinyl rub rail, but is unsafe on plastics and many synthetics, like the windows. Reserve its use for situations where more gentle cleaners fail.

If you strike bottom, the propeller shear pin will likely break. This is not a maintenance issue in the strictest sense, but it is such a common occurrence that you should be prepared for the event. Carry a spare shear pin, cotter pin, and pliers so you are ready when this happens. Your outboard owner's manual should include instructions on how to replace this sacrificial part.

The water pump impeller may need replacement every few years, or more or less frequently depending on how you treat the motor. If you often run in shallow water or strike bottom frequently you may need to replace it every year. If the motor never sucks in any mud or sand the impeller may last many years. Impeller replacement is not especially difficult or expensive, but does require disassembly of the outboard's lower unit. Do not try to change the impeller yourself without reading the service manual first.

That's all that is required for most small outboards. Check your owner's manual for further details.

IM sells a Sunbrella cover for the companionway door that may help prolong its life.

By the way, if you are really into the sewing thing you probably should get a Sailrite catalog. They have all kinds of specialty materials, as well as sail kits, commercial grade sewing equipment, and more. Their catalog and Web site are full of good information. The average owner probably doesn't need much of that stuff, but Sailrite is a one-stop-shop for boat owner's sewing supplies.

You should inspect the winch cable regularly, and replace it if you find signs of corrosion or fraying.

One consideration: The premium layup option obviously cannot be retrofitted after delivery. If you think you might want it you should probably order it when you order your new boat.

Note : In a typical installation, an automatic pump can't remove all the water from the boat, since the lowest part of the hull is too narrow to allow locating a float switch there. If you really want to get the hull dry you must use a pump that does not need priming and that can be fitted with a small-diameter intake hose, and control the pump manually.

  • Remove any paint or dirt on the fiberglass, as well as any loose material like flaking or chipped gel coat.
  • De-wax the surface with acetone and a clean rag. Change the rag frequently to assure that you aren't re-applying the wax with the used rag.
  • Rough up the fiberglass surface with coarse (80 grit or so) sandpaper to provide a "bite" for the epoxy.
  • Mix epoxy (not polyester) resin thickened with silica microballons or wood flour to about the consistency of peanut butter.
  • Apply the thickened epoxy to the wood surface.
  • Press the part into place, and brace it or clamp it so it can't move while it cures.
  • Clean up the epoxy slop around the parts.
  • Allow the epoxy to cure at least 24 hours, at an ambient temperature of 65 degrees or higher.

Do not try to use polyester resin instead of the more expensive epoxy; polyester resin won't bond nearly as well. If the temperature is much less than 65 degrees you may have to find a way to warm up the area while the resin cures.

For more information, visit the System Three Web site. Their Epoxy Book is available as a free download and has just about everything you need to know about boat repairs using epoxy products.

  • 5 mm. V-12 single braid
  • 7/16" Spectra
  • 1/4" Yale Ultra Low Stretch

When selecting line, look for low stretch as well as high breaking strength in a line diameter small enough to fit the existing hardware. The keel weighs 300 pounds, but will exert far more stress on the line if it is allowed to drop suddenly (as may happen if the line snarls or the winch is accidentally wound backwards).

You will need about 30 feet of line. When installing the replacement line, make sure there are at least 3 full turns (4 or 5 is better) of line around the winch drum when the keel is all the way down. Having these unused turns on the drum will help reduce chafe and minimize the load at the drum attachment point.

When designing and installing this modification, keep in mind that any components you use in the keel support system must be strong enough to take the full weight of the keel with plenty of strength to spare. Don't buy line with 7000 pound breaking strength and then skimp on the other hardware.

Caution: Never leave the stove running unattended, even for a short time, and always provide adequate ventilation. The stove consumes oxygen and can create an unhealthy environment in a closed cabin.

A small electric heater may be a viable option when shore power is available. There are also many small cabin and camping heaters available that use various fuels and that may be suitable for use on the Potters. But when selecting a heater, remember that each type of fuel carries its own risks, and that a solution that works well in a camper or tent may not be nearly as safe or as practical on a boat.

The best and safest solution: Dress warmly, and have a good sleeping bag handy.

If you keep your P19 in the water, be sure to check the cockpit drain fittings at the stern. There have been reports of leakage there from the hose clamps being too loose. The cockpit drain is slightly above the water line on an empty boat, but may be below the water line when the boat has a few people on board.

Another consideration is where the cracks occur. They are generally found where there is stress imposed on a fitting that does not have adequate support to distribute the stress properly to the surrounding structure. Such problems are worth investigating, because the cracks will tend to spread unless the structural problem is resolved. Before fixing the cracks themselves look at the surrounding structure and find and fix any underlying problems.

Late-model P19s have a full hull liner, which includes a floor that is bonded to the keel trunk. Cracks in this area are fairly common due to uneven stresses between the hull liner and the outer hull. Even a real crack all the way through the liner is not necessarily serious, as long as the outer hull is not cracked.

A coat of epoxy barrier paint can greatly reduce the likelihood of blisters developing, and is generally a good idea for boats that are kept in the water full-time. If you put bottom paint on your boat it is probably wise to apply a barrier coat first.

  • Remove all hardware from the affected area.
  • Dig out all the rotted wood you can reach through the holes where the hardware was mounted. (If you can't seem to get it all the damage may be more serious than you thought and require removal of some fiberglass -- a topic a bit too involved for coverage here. You may need professional help.)
  • Keep the boat dry (under cover) for a few days to let the core dry out as much as possible. A hair dryer or heat gun may help, but allowing time to dry is really the best bet.
  • After the core has dried, securely plug the bottom of the holes with tape and pour epoxy resin into the holes such that it will soak into the core. There are thinned epoxy products that are good for this: CPES (available at www.rotdoctor.com), Git-Rot, and System Three Clear Coat are all popular choices.
  • After that has fully cured, mix some thickened epoxy resin and fill the holes, or if they are large just fill the gouged-out areas until the hole edges are fair. (Thickened epoxy is just regular epoxy resin mixed with wood flour or a similar thickening agent.)
  • After that cures, re-drill the holes into the epoxy-filled patches and re-bed and reinstall the hardware.

If you do this right, you will not only fix the original problem but will greatly lessen the likelihood of future rot in the repaired areas as well. The epoxy will act as a barrier to water intrusion, even if the hardware bedding dries out.

  • One comfortable and effective life jacket for each crew member. IM's "safety package" includes a couple of inexpensive PFDs that could save your life, but you will have trouble getting anyone to wear them. Get ones you can live with and save the cheap ones for unexpected guests.
  • At least one throwable PFD (cushion).
  • Distress flag. These aren't too popular these days, but they can be an effective attention-getter when hoisted up the mast. Also, a distress flag will never expire as flares do.
  • A few tools and spare parts.
  • Waterproof flashlight.
  • First aid kit.
  • Hand operated bilge pump, if you didn't get one with the boat.
  • Boy Scout knife, Swiss Army knife, or similar; keep it on the boat all the time. (The one in your pocket may be missing when you need it most.)
  • Boat hook, preferably one that doubles as a brush handle.
  • Gas and oil for the outboard, and a container to mix them in (if you have a 2-stroke).
  • Folding bucket, or something similar.
  • Large sponge.
  • One waterproof box to carry miscellaneous small stuff in (boat registration, handheld GPS, tools, parts, etc).

If you didn't get a marine VHF with the boat, you should seriously consider one. If you go out of sight of land or stay out after dark a GPS is also a good investment. A handheld unit is fine, and IM offers a Standard-Horizon chartplotter as an option if you want to spend real money.

This matter is often discussed on the WWP Forum. You might want to read the discussions there for detailed pros and cons of both boats.

Used boat : You save money, usually don't have to buy much additional equipment or supplies, and know the bugs are all worked out. But you will have to deal with some normal wear and tear issues and may also be buying someone else's problems.

Your choice.

For a history of the changes to the Potter 19 over the years, visit the Files section of Bill Nolan's WW Potter Owners Registry, Photos & Articles site.

  • Look at the boat's general condition, and ask the owner how it was stored (garage, yard, covered, uncovered, in the water, etc.) Boats stored dry will generally have fewer problems than boats stored wet.
  • On a P19, be sure to check the deck and cabin tops for soundness; they can get rot in the core which can be expensive to fix.
  • Raise the keel, inspect it for rust or damage, and lower it. This will confirm that the winch, cable, and keel are OK.
  • Check out the sails. Potter sails are easy to get and aren't all that expensive, but if they are shot you should factor new sails into the price.
  • Look at the list of supplied equipment and accessories, because an awful lot of stuff on a Potter is optional. The IM Web site has prices for new accessories and options that you can use for a baseline when considering the value of options on a used boat.

Otherwise, basic diligence is all you need.

  • Multi-bit screwdriver, or a few different screwdrivers
  • Small and medium crescent wrench
  • Small locking pliers
  • Long nosed pliers or a Leatherman-type multi-tool
  • Pocket knife
  • Spray lubricant
  • General purpose marine sealant

A minimal spare parts kit should include:

  • Spare cotter rings and pins
  • A few spare clevis pins
  • Miscellaneous insulated wire
  • Sail repair tape
  • General purpose tape (duct tape or electrical tape)
  • Rigging tape
  • Spare fuses
  • Spare bulbs for the running lights
  • A few bungee cords, various sizes
  • Some spare line, same as used on the mainsheet
  • If you have an outboard you should add a spark plug, spark plug wrench, and propeller shear pin to the list.

It is easy to overstock a boat. Remember that in many cases it is more practical to carry most of your spare parts and tools in the tow vehicle, rather than on the boat.

  • Defender Industries: Often recommended by Potter owners. www.defender.com .
  • Sailnet: A general on-line marine supply with a good selection of sailing equipment and hardware. www.sailnet.com .
  • Boater's World: Among the least expensive of the general marine supply houses, with decent service and a fairly large catalog. Try them before you go to West Marine or Boat US. www.boatersworld.com .
  • West Marine: Not especially price competitive, but well established and has a large catalog. www.westmarine.com .
  • Boat US: Again, not the cheapest but well established and has a large catalog. www.boatus.com .
  • Boatfix.com: Probably the best place for outboard motor parts and other mechanical stuff and general maintenance supplies; very competitive pricing and good customer service. www.boatfix.com .
  • Surplus unlimited: Limited stock, but great prices. It is worth checking them out before buying elsewhere. They are more oriented toward power than sail, but they offer great deals on what they do have. www.surplusunlimited.com .

And of course, there is always IM. If they have the item listed as an available accessory you should consider buying from them, just because they know Potters and you can be assured that the things they supply will work with their boats.

  • Keel winch (P19): Is a Fulton model K650 .
  • Compass: Is a Plastimo Mini-Contest.
  • Porta-potti (P19): Is a Thetford model 135.
  • One-burner stove (P19): Is a Mr. Max table-top burner by Athena International .
  • Water jugs (P19): The water jugs in the standard fresh-water system are five gallon Reliance Fold-A-Carriers. (No Web page found, but many camping supply stores sell them for prices ranging from $5 to $10 each.) 
  • Opening ports: Are Beckson Rain Drain ports, model PO 714WC-10.
  • Forward vent: Is a Nicro model N10883, 3" diameter, manufactured by Marinco .
  • Blocks and other running-rigging hardware: Are made by Harken .
  • Boom vang: Is kitted by IM using Harken hardware.
  • Roller furling: Is made by Cruising Designs (CDI).
  • Outboard motor: Up to 2002, IM offered 2-stroke and 4-stroke Nissan outboards as options. Beginning in 2003, IM started supplying Honda 4-stroke outboards.
  • Running lights: The running lights on boats made prior to 2001 are probably Aqua Signal series 20 lights made by Aqua Signal AG (This page is in German; for product information in English, visit Performance Yacht Systems ). 2001 and newer boats use Perko lights, which are better quality and meet USCG requirements.
  • Cabin light : Is a 4" dome light made by Sea Dog . It uses a 12 volt bayonet-base bulb.
  • Battery: Most boats have series 24 maintenance-free gel batteries, made by PowerSonic . This may vary from year to year, but the battery supplied with recent option packages has been a PowerSonic model 12600M, 60 amp-hour capacity. IM does offer a standard wet battery but most owners who have electrical accessories get an options package that includes one or two gel batteries.
  • Battery charger: Is a Guest Pro Charger. The single battery boats use model 2608. Two battery boats use model 2607. Note : These chargers are rated as waterproof by the manufacturer.
  • Depth sounder: In 2001 and 2002, IM offered two options; a Humminbird depth finder and a Standard Horizon depth sounder with speed indicator, model 150. In 2003 they offer a Navman sounder in place of the Humminbird product.
  • Stereo: Is a Sony AM/FM/CD player.
  • VHF radio: Currently there are two options; a Uniden model MC535 or an Icom M402.

By the way, the Coast Guard maintains a searchable list of manufacturer identifiers. If you see a boat and can't identify the manufacturer, note it's HIN and look up the manufacturer ID here .

Oars are expensive, but if you are handy with tools and have some time you can make your own for experimental purposes. A set of plans and instructions for some simple oars are available free at bateau.com .

There are also various online resources, for the "book learning" side. Boat U.S. offers a basic boating course online. Baysail.com offers an online sailing course . Either of these resources are a good place to start if you are new to boating or sailing.

  • The International Marine Web site: www.wwpotter.com . IM posts extensive information on the boats, accessories and options, and pricing. (You can even buy a new boat online, if you want.)
  • The definitive Potter owner's forum is at www.trailersailor.com/forums/potter .
  • There is a Potter Web ring at http://h.webring.com/hub?ring=westwightpotters&id=13&hub .
  • Bill Nolan's West Wight Potter Owner's Home Port site: http://www.wwpotterowners.com has lists of Potters in service, photos, articles, technical information, and lots of other good stuff.

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West Wight Potter sailboats for sale

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2004 West Wight Potter 19 | Vandalia

2004 West Wight Potter 19 | Vandalia Ona, West Virginia, United States

2014 West Wight Potter 18.75 | Lickskillet

2014 West Wight Potter 18.75 | Lickskillet Kingsport, Tennessee, United States

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Posted 2024-07-12 17:24

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West Wight Potter 15 project - $1,000 (Cheney)

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West Wight Potter 15 project - boats - by owner - marine sale -...

West Wight Potter 15 for sale. Comes with a little used 2hp Honda 4 cycle outboard, just serviced and running good. I purchased the boat several years ago and had a grand time sailing it for a few...

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COMMENTS

  1. West Wight Potter sailboats for sale by owner.

    West Wight Potter preowned sailboats for sale by owner. West Wight Potter used sailboats for sale by owner.

  2. West Wight Potter Sailboats

    West Wight Potter Sailboats, Inglewood, California. 11,359 likes · 1 talking about this · 15 were here. Sail away on a practically designed sailboat from International Marine.

  3. West Wight Potter 19 Sailboat Review

    The West Wight Potter 19 sailboat is a popular choice for a pocket cruiser and has a well-deserved reputation for its easy sailing and stability.

  4. WEST WIGHT POTTER 19

    aka POTTER 19. An earlier version was the HMS 18. Photo courtesy Adam Hunt.

  5. West Wight Potter 15

    The International Marine built West Wight Potter 15 is a recreational sailboat, made predominantly of fiberglass, with mahogany wood trim. It has a fractional sloop rig with aluminum spars. The hull has a spooned raked stem, a conventional transom, a transom-hung, kick-up rudder controlled by a tiller and a weighted, galvanized steel ...

  6. West Wight Potter 15/19

    Price: West Wight Potter 15, $7,395 (including sails, engine, and trailer, FOB Inglewood, CA); Sail Staff. Updated: Aug 2, 2017. Original: Sep 23, 2004. There is a reason why West Wight Potters have been in production for over 42 years. They may appear tiny compared to modern thin-water pocket cruisers, but their hard-chined hulls, simple ...

  7. West Wight Potter 19

    The West Wight Potter 19 is a recreational keelboat, with a hard chine hull, built predominantly of fiberglass, with wood trim. It has a fractional sloop rig, a spooned raked stem, a vertical transom, a transom-hung rudder controlled by a tiller, and a vertically lifting fin keel. It displaces 1,225 lb (556 kg) and carries 370 lb (168 kg) of ...

  8. West Wight Potter 15

    West Wight Potter 15 is a 14′ 11″ / 4.6 m monohull sailboat designed by Herb Stewart and Stanley T. Smith and built by International Marine starting in 1980.

  9. West Wight Potter 19 Boat Reviews

    West Wight Potter 19 Boat Reviews. A 21st century trailer sailer. It might not have the catchiest of names, but I found everything else about the West Wight Potter 19 delightful. The concept of trailer sailers has always struck me as a good one, and I have never worked out why interest in them died. I am happy to say to this one, "Welcome ...

  10. West Wight Potter 19

    West Wight Potter 19 is a 18′ 9″ / 5.7 m monohull sailboat designed by Herb Stewart and built by International Marine starting in 1979.

  11. West Wight Potter sailboats for sale by owner

    West Wight Potter preowned sailboats for sale by owner. West Wight Potter used sailboats for sale by owner.

  12. West Wight Potter 14 (Gunter-C Type)

    West Wight Potter 14 (Gunter-C Type) is a 14′ 6″ / 4.4 m monohull sailboat designed by Stanley T. Smith and built by Ring Marine (UK) starting in 1968.

  13. The Official Web Site of the Potter Yachters

    The Potter Yachters is an informal social club of West Wight Potter owners (and other trailerable sailboat owners) based mostly in the San Francisco area. Established in 1978.

  14. West Wight Potter Frequently Asked Questions

    West Wight Potters are small, single-mast, retractable-keel sailboats designed for easy trailering and casual cruising in protected and semi-protected waters. They are "pocket cruisers," providing adequate short-term sleeping and living accommodations for a couple or perhaps a small family, depending on the model.

  15. West Wight Potter sailboats for sale

    2004 West Wight Potter 19 | Vandalia Ona, West Virginia, United States $7,200 Listed on January 23, 2024

  16. Sailboat • West Wight Potter 19 • INTERNATIONAL MARINE LTD

    The WW Potter 19 is a robustly built trailerable pocket sailboat that has a following like you wouldn't believe. It is considered to be one of the best trailerable boats and people have sailed them across the ocean. This boat is in very good condition. Designed by Herb Stewart, this model has been in production since. 1979. She has four 6+' berths inside (double forepeak and two quarter ...

  17. West Wight Potter 15 project

    West Wight Potter 15 for sale. Comes with a little used 2hp Honda 4 cycle outboard, just serviced and running good. I purchased the boat several years ago and had a grand time sailing it for a few...

  18. Elektrostal Map

    Elektrostal is a railway station in Moscow Oblast. Elektrostal is situated nearby to Часовня and Пожарная часть № 2. Mapcarta, the open map.

  19. Kapotnya District (Moscow)

    Kapotnya District A residential and industrial region in the south-east of Mocsow. It was founded on the spot of two villages: Chagino (what is now the Moscow Oil Refinery) and Ryazantsevo (demolished

  20. WEST WIGHT POTTER 15

    WEST WIGHT POTTER 15 Save to Favorites BOTH US IMPERIAL METRIC

  21. UUDO

    Heliport information about UUDO - Orlovo, MOS, RU. Information on this site may not be accurate or current and is not valid for flight planning or navigation.

  22. Visit Elektrostal: 2024 Travel Guide for Elektrostal, Moscow Oblast

    Travel guide resource for your visit to Elektrostal. Discover the best of Elektrostal so you can plan your trip right.