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Saturday, October 10, 2020

The Complete History Of The Rolex Yacht-Master

The Complete History

Yacht-master.

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INSIDE ROLEX

The Watch Of The Open Seas: History Of The Rolex Yacht-Master

Instagram: @rolex

In the year 1992, Swiss watchmaker Rolex would debut a new model line at the Baselworld show that was strikingly similar to the already-popular Submariner. It featured the same 40mm Oyster case with a rotating bezel, the same chronometer-certified caliber, and the same Oyster bracelet.

Seemingly the only difference between the two was the white dial of that first Yacht-Master, a style which has never been an option on a Sub, and the inferior depth rating of 100m when compared to the Sub’s 300m.

Yet, the Yacht-Master was well-received upon launch, and with the passing of time, the yachting-inspired model has evolved and pioneered its own path within Rolex’s catalog.

Read on with us as we go back to the beginning and track the catalysts that paved the way for the most recent Yacht-Master release, the Yacht-Master 42 (226659), to become one of the hottest sports timepieces of the year.

History Of The Rolex Yacht-Master

We’ve broken down our overview of the Yacht-Master into the following segments:

Release Of The Yacht-Master

The Submariner/Yacht-Master Theory

Mid-Size & Ladies’ Yacht-Master
Platinum (Rolesium) Yacht-Master

The Maxi Dial Yacht-Master

Two-Tone Rolesor Yacht-Master

The Yacht-Master II

Six-Digit Yacht-Master

The Oysterflex Yacht-Master

Keep scrolling to read this guide from its beginning, or use the links above to jump down to a specific point.

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The Release Of The Yacht-Master

The first Yacht-Master watch was launched in 1992 under reference number 16628. It featured a yellow gold case, a bidirectional graduated bezel, and a matching full-gold Oyster bracelet. Its dial was white with black hour indices, while at center were gold Mercedes hands, and beating inside was the 3135 movement.

Rolex ref. 16628. Instagram: @m_j_watches

Previous to the Yacht-Master’s introduction, Rolex had not released a new model line in a quarter century. So, why did they go with the Yacht-Master, a design that risked being a detractor from their existing Submariner? Let’s take a look at the inspiration.

The sport of yachting is one which demands precise timing and extreme coordination of the entire crew for optimal performance, particularly in offshore competitions.

Vintage Rolex Daytona Yacht-Master Prototype

Prototype Daytona Yacht-Master ref. 6239. Image: Christies.com

Rolex believed their waterproof and chronometer-grade timepieces to be more than qualified to handle the knocks of a regatta and keep ticking accurately. The brand is also notorious for their marketing prowess, which led them to act quickly in establishing an association with the sport.

Beginning in 1958 with their first sponsorship of a race, the relationship has endured until today, when the brand sponsors over a dozen international yachting events.

Nevertheless, it’s hard to deny that there exists a large gap between first contact in 1958 and the release of the yacht-inspired timepiece in the early ’90s. Why wasn’t the Yacht-Master released earlier on?

Well, Rolex played around with the idea of yachting chronograph early on, though it never materialized. All that’s left of these trials are an extremely limited number of Daytona ref. 6239 chronograph prototypes with a 39mm case (vs standard 36mm) and modified regatta dials.

Unfortunately, the Yacht-Master concept was scrapped and would not reappear until decades later.

When it did return, none of the previous Yacht-Master’s DNA was there. Furthermore, the 1992 Yacht-Master was bizarrely similar to the 16610 Sub of the time.

Interestingly enough, Rolex folklore tells of a time in the ’80s when the brand sought to update their Submariner . What resulted was less of an update and more of an overhaul, manifested as what we know now as the first Yacht-Master.

Apprehensive of the repercussions that making such aggressive design changes to their staple offering could bring, the brand chose instead to release the watch intended to be a new Submariner as the reborn Yacht-Master instead.

The move worked, and the new Yacht-Masters started flying off the shelves. The Yacht-Master was perceived as a more luxurious Sub, though its bidirectional bezel proved useful for on-the-fly countdowns which are critical in sailing competitions. The waterproof nature of the Oyster case further cemented the Yacht-Master as the ideal first mate.

Mid-Size & Ladies’ Yacht-Master

In 1994, just two years after the debut of the 16628, Rolex would introduce the same design but in smaller case sizes. These were:

Ref. 68628: Yacht-Master “Mid-Size” in 35mm
Ref. 69628: Yacht-Master Ladies’ in 29mm

This marked the first time that Rolex ever offered one of their sports models in a smaller case size; all previous instances of case size changes were increases as opposed to reductions. It has been speculated that the smaller cases were intended for the Asian market.

Yacht-Master ref. 16628. Instagram: @thewatchcentre

In the same year, Rolex also offered the same 16628 but this time with a deep blue dial. Blue dials tend to make for broadly-liked watches, and coupled with the gold case and bracelet, the new version was once again a hit.

The Platinum (Rolesium) Yacht-Master

The next update to the model line would come in 1999 with yet another home-run: the Rolesium Yacht-Master. The new watch featured a stainless steel case and bracelet with a platinum dial and platinum-insert bezel. Rolesium, a term registered by Rolex back in the ’30s for a combination of steel and platinum in a watch, was finally put to use.

The new platinum Yacht-Master ref. 16622 was not only more accessible than the previous all-gold varieties, it was also more versatile. This would lead the 16622 variety to become the face of the Yacht-Master line.

In fact, many online resources erroneously label it the first Yacht-Master ever; this should offer an idea of how emblematic it is in the watch industry.

The 16622 also presented a new dial and hand style that would mark Rolex as a whole through to the modern day. The new Yacht-Master boasted what is now recognized as the “maxi dial”.

Yellow Gold Rolex Yacht-Master Blue Dial 16628

Rolex Yacht-Master 16628 w/ maxi dial. Instagram: @kellokonttori

The maxi dial is characterized by oversized hour indices as well as larger hands at center. To the untrained eye, the difference may be difficult to spot, though experienced collectors will note the change instantly.

The maxi dial became the style of choice for all modern Rolex sports watches, though it got its start in the 1999 platinum Yacht-Master. A Submariner would first feature a maxi dial in 2003, with the release of the 50th anniversary Rolex Submariner “Kermit” (16610LV).

All versions of the Yacht-Master produced after the introduction of the maxi dial would also feature the new dial design. This included the blue, gold, and white dial versions from years past.

The Two-Tone (Rolesor) Yacht-Master

Six years after the Rolesium Yacht-Master came to be, Rolex would once more put on display their mixed-metal Rolesor style in the two-tone Yacht-Master 16623.

Two-Tone Rolex Yacht-Master Blue Dial 16823

Yacht-Master ref. 16623. Instagram: @v.davidofftimepieces

The 2005 debuts possessed a 40mm steel case, a yellow gold bidirectional bezel, and a two-tone Oyster bracelet. As far as dials, many of the previous styles were also available like the black-on-white, though mother of pearl version were also introduced.

It was during Baselworld 2007 when Rolex would introduce the Yacht-Master’s younger and much larger sibling, the Yacht-Master II. Whereas the original Yacht-Master was very close functionally to the Sub, the Yacht-Master II was completely the opposite.

It can be said that the only overlap between the YM and the YMII is be the name, as the second iteration looks like a whole new watch. This time, though, it’s clear that the watch has been designed with the needs of yachting professionals in mind.

The first Yacht-Master II were marked by a 44mm Oyster case, an Oyster bracelet, a white dial, and a blue Cerachrom (ceramic) Ring Command bezel. The first two references, 116688 and 116689, were made of yellow gold and white gold, respectively.

Powering the YMII was another innovation – Rolex’s in-house calibre 4161. It features the COSC-chronometer certification and 72-hour power reserve that are today’s standard, though they were industry-leading at the time. Most notable, though, was the 4161 movement’s functions.

The new caliber boasted a “ programmable countdown with mechanical memory and on-the-fly synchronization. ” Naturally, the programming of the movement required the use of the Ring Command bezel, a feature which had also never been encountered on a Rolex watch before.

In later years, Rolex would go on to release Rolesor and full-steel versions of the Yacht-Master II, both of which have been relatively successful. The Yacht-Master II has certainly earned a spot in the brand’s catalog, and is sure to stick around for next couple of decades.

The Six-Digit Yacht-Master

Yacht-Master 116622

Twenty years after it debuted as the 16628, the Yacht-Master would see in 2012 the modernization that had been sweeping Rolex’s other model families.

Aside from receiving a new six-digit reference number (116622), subtle aesthetic changes were also present, as was an outstanding new dial option – the Cobalt Blue dial.

The case was now a “super case”, which retained the 40mm diameter but was styled differently. The bezel was now completely platinum, where previous versions were made of steel with a platinum insert. The Oyster bracelet had likewise been upgraded.

A platinum bezel / platinum dial option was still part of the collection and therefore received the same upgrades. Unfortunately, this iconic “albino” look would be completely discontinued in 2017.

The subsequent and most recent significant change to the Yacht-Master family took place in 2015, when Rolex first introduced the Everose Yacht-Master 40 ref. 116655.

Rolex Everose Yacht-Master on Oysterflex bracelet

The newest iteration of the YM possessed some new features. The case was made of Everose, and the bezel now boasted a black Cerachrom insert. Securing the watch to the wrist was another Rolex first – the Oysterflex rubber ‘bracelet’.

Before the 116655, no Rolex watch had ever sported a rubber band. The brand still refers to it as a bracelet given the metal elements within the band, but these are not obvious even with the watch in the hand.

This same style of Yacht-Master would receive the next update in 2019, when Rolex introduced the Yacht-Master 42 in white gold.

What’s Next?

With the recent changes that the Yacht-Master line has had, it is clear that Rolex intends to keep this model family alive and well for years to come. Consumers are likewise responding to each new release, offering plenty of feedback with their pocketbooks.

If you’d like to read up on any of Rolex’s other model families, make sure to check out some of our extensive watch guides below:

History Of The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
Overview Of The Most Luxurious Pilot’s Watch: The GMT-Master
How Did The Day-Date Become The President’s Watch?
Review Of Rolex’s Longest Running Watch Model
Rolex Watches That Could Become The Investment Of A Lifetime

"I have always been a fan of the Yacht-Master, but I had no idea that it didn't exist until the 1990s. Thanks for the information, and thanks for keeping it entertaining. Well done!"

Watch Content

Yacht-Master II

THE SKIPPERS’ WATCH

The Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II is a unique regatta chronograph dedicated to both experienced sailors and yachting enthusiasts.

A PROFESSIONAL REGATTA CHRONOGRAPH

As in any contest of speed, precision and synchronization are of the essence in a regatta. The Yacht-Master II is equipped with a countdown that can be programmed from 10 to 1 minutes, allowing the wearer to precisely time and follow each race’s specific official starting procedure, which generally unfolds in three stages, marked by sound and visual signals. This flexibility is one of the major assets of the Yacht-Master II; its development was a considerable mechanical challenge. Furthermore, the programming can be mechanically memorized, which makes it possible to start a new countdown without having to reprogramme the watch, for example in the next leg or a subsequent regatta with identical countdown duration.

Once launched, the countdown can be synchronized on the fly to match the official countdown via the ‘fly-back’ reset function of the seconds hand and adjustment of the countdown minute hand to the nearest minute.

RING COMMAND SYSTEM

The countdown’s sophisticated functions were designed to be easily set and operated. The preliminary programming of up to 10 minutes is accessed, and then locked, via the rotatable bezel thanks to Ring Command, a system of interaction between the bezel, the winding crown and the movement, developed by Rolex. Its development, a feat of technical prowess, was made possible by the brand’s complete in-house mastery over the design and manufacturing processes, from the case and bracelet to the movement with its many components.

BEZEL WITH CERACHROM INSERT

The bidirectional rotatable bezel on the Yacht-Master II is equipped with a monobloc Cerachrom insert in blue ceramic. This patented insert is made of an extremely hard, virtually scratchproof ceramic whose colour is unaffected by ultraviolet rays. In addition, thanks to its chemical composition, the high-tech ceramic is inert and cannot corrode. The numerals and inscriptions are moulded in the ceramic and coloured with gold or platinum using a PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) process.

CHROMALIGHT DISPLAY

The Yacht-Master II is an extremely legible watch in all circumstances and even in the dark thanks to the Chromalight display; the hour markers and hands are filled or coated with a luminescent material emitting a long-lasting blue glow – for up to two times longer than traditional phosphorescent materials.

THE YACHT-MASTER II, SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER CERTIFIED

Like all Rolex watches, the Yacht-Master II is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This exclusive designation attests that every watch leaving the brand’s workshops has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories and according to its own criteria. These certification tests are carried out on the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement, guaranteeing superlative performance on the wrist in terms of precision, power reserve, waterproofness and self-winding. The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.

The precision of every movement – officially certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) – is tested a second time by Rolex after being cased, to ensure that it meets criteria for precision that are far stricter than those of the official certification. The precision of a Rolex Superlative Chronometer is of the order of −2/+2 seconds per day – the rate deviation tolerated by the brand for a finished watch is significantly smaller than that accepted by COSC for official certification of the movement alone.

The Superlative Chronometer certification testing is carried out after casing using state-of-the-art equipment specially developed by Rolex and according to an exclusive protocol that simulates the conditions in which a watch is actually worn and more closely represents real-life experience. The entirely automated series of tests also checks the waterproofness, the self-winding capacity and the power reserve of 100 per cent of Rolex watches. These tests systematically complement the qualification testing upstream during development and production, in order to ensure the watches’ reliability, robustness, and resistance to strong magnetic fields and to shocks.

THE OYSTER CASE, SYMBOL OF WATERPROOFNESS

The Yacht-Master II’s Oyster case, 44 mm in diameter and guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of robustness and reliability. The middle case is crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel or 18 ct gold. The case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only certified Rolex watchmakers to access the movement. The Triplock winding crown, fitted with a triple waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case. It is protected by a crown guard that is an integral part of the middle case. The crystal is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and benefits from an anti-reflective coating. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimal protection for the movement it houses .

PERPETUAL CALIBRE 4161

The Yacht-Master II is equipped with calibre 4161, a self-winding mechanical chronograph movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. A consummate demonstration of technology, this movement offers outstanding performance, particularly in terms of precision, power reserve, convenience and reliability.

Calibre 4161 is based on the 4130 chronograph movement, which equipped the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona until 2022. It is fitted with a traversing column wheel and vertical clutch for an instantaneous and extremely precise chronograph start.

The movement incorporates the blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in a paramagnetic alloy. In addition to resisting strong magnetic fields, this hairspring offers great stability in the face of temperature variations as well as high resistance to shocks. It is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibre’s regularity in any position.

The oscillator of calibre 4161 has a large balance wheel with variable inertia regulated extremely precisely via gold Microstella nuts. It is held firmly in place by a height-adjustable traversing bridge enabling very stable positioning to increase shock resistance.

Calibre 4161 is fitted with a self-winding system via a Perpetual rotor, which ensures continuous winding of the mainspring by harnessing the movements of the wrist to provide constant energy. It offers a power reserve of approximately 72 hours.

The Yacht-Master II’s movement will be seen only by certified Rolex watchmakers, yet it is beautifully finished and decorated in keeping with the brand’s uncompromising quality standards.

BRACELET AND CLASP, SECURE AND COMFORTABLE

The Yacht-Master II is available on a three-piece link Oyster bracelet that is equipped with a Rolex-designed, patented Oysterlock safety clasp, which prevents accidental opening. The bracelet is additionally fitted with the Easylink comfort extension link, developed by the brand. This system allows the wearer to easily increase the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm, for additional comfort in any circumstance.

Yacht-Master

Sea-Dweller

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Yacht-Master History

The Yacht-Master was not the first of Rolex’s watches to be designed with sea adventurers in mind. However, rather than focusing on the usability of the watch as a tool, as they did with the Submariner, Rolex seems to have set out to create a tool for boating, while focusing on the luxury and aesthetic look of the watch.

When the Yacht-Master was first introduced in 1992, it seemed to capitalize on the success of Rolex’s first nautical inspired watch, the Submariner. The original Yacht-Master may have been a redesign of the Submariner, though it looks like early Rolex Daytona models. There were many changes, including the size, which was slightly bigger than the Dayton’s 36mm, at 39.5mm. Other changes included an etched bezel insert that was permanently soldered to the bezel, larger hands and maxi-markers, and smooth, rounded edges.

1990's yachtmaster 16628 and submariner 16610

Though it was created in the 1960’s, it was not initially released. Some think that Rolex thought the changes to the Submariner were too drastic, thus created an entirely new model: the Yacht-Master. Rolex originally introduced the new Yacht-Master in 1992 with Reference 16628. As with all Rolex watched, the Yacht-Master focused on strength and durability, thus it had a triple-lock crown and resisted water up to 100 meters (330 feet). While maintaining strength and durability, the watch also features luxurious materials and design, as has come to be expected from Rolex. Made from 18kt gold, the watch is topped with a white dial and is 40mm in size. Inside, the watch features a 3135 movement, which is the same movement used in the Rolex Submariner. With its gold features and impeccable style, the Yacht-Master was initially intended as a more luxurious version of the Submariner.

In 1994, Rolex introduced a 35mm mid-sized edition of the Yacht-Master with Reference 69628. This particular reference was geared toward the Asian market, or more specifically for men with smaller wrists. That same year Rolex introduced the women's 29mm version of the Yacht-Master with Reference 69628. Continuing to improve the model, Rolex also issued a new version of the 40mm men’s Yacht-Master in 1994 as well. The 18K gold watch features a beautiful blue sunray dial. Again, in 1999, Rolex improved upon the Yacht-Master design, introduction a stainless steel version of the 40mm at the Basel Fair. This mix of steel and platinum has been termed Rolesium. A unique feature of this reference is its platinum dial. This version was also the first modern Yacht-Master to bring back the timeless maxi-markers and larger hands of the original. The rare and expensive materials, size, and precision design make the Yacht-Master one of Rolex’s most luxurious watches.

Over the next few years and on into the 2000s, Rolex continued to improve upon the design. Aesthetically, some versions of the Yacht-Master pushed the limits of luxury, adding a beautiful mother of pearl dial, as well as two-tone metal versions, mixing steel and gold.

In 2012, Rolex information was released about a new version of the stainless steel and platinum Yacht-Master, adding a stunning cobalt blue sunray dial. Some had complained about the “overuse” of the similar looking stainless steel and platinum, which some believe made the watch too monochrome. Rolex remedied this with the 2012 introduction, breaking up the platinum and stainless steel with a lovely pop of color.

The latest in the Yacht-Master line is Reference 116622. The sleek and sporty Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master is meant to epitomize the tie between Rolex and sailing. For variety, Rolex offers it in three sizes: 40mm, 35mm and 29mm. The mother-of-pearl blue dials continue to add a beautiful pop of color to the sleek and modern stainless steel and platinum combination. Large hour markers and broad hands, in combination with the raised and polished numerals and graduations which clearly stand out against the contrasting matt of the dial, make the watch easily readable. Made of 18K yellow gold of 950 platinum, the Yacht-Master’s bidirectional rotatable, 60-minute graduated bezel allows the wearer to calculate sailing time.

To ensure safety, especially on the water, Rolex ensures waterproofness in their design up to 300 meters (1,000 feet). Utilizing Rolex’s Triplock winding crown, the watch is specially designed to resist water pressure, as the winding crown screws down against the Oyster case as tightly and completely as an oyster’s shell. First invented by Rolex in 1926, the Oyster case and waterproof features continue to be used to this day. Another safety feature added by Rolex is the Oyster bracelet. As the link between the wearer and the watch, the Oyster bracelet has been designed to not only be aesthetically pleasing and comfortable, but also strong and innovative. Featuring a special clasp designed to prevent accidental opening, the Oyster bracelet is not only aesthetic pleasing but safe and strong, giving the wearer a peace of mind.

Inside, the new Yacht-Master features many important innovations, including the blue Parachrom hairspring. One of the most important components of a watch is its oscillator. Conventional oscillator hairsprings are made of ferromagnetic alloys, leaving them vulnerable to magnetic fields, temperature variations, and shocks (i.e. the watch is dropped), that interfere with their precision. To combat these issues, Rolex created the blue Parachrom hairspring. Finer than a human hair, the Parachrom hairspring is crafted from a highly stable paramagnetic alloy that includes niobium and zirconium. Unaffected by magnetic fields, it is up to 10 times more resistant to shocks. The Yacht-Master is also equipped with caliber 3135, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex and certified as an official Swiss chronometer.

Rarely does Rolex introduce a completely new model. In its long history, one of the last new models to be introduced was the Rolex Daytona, in 1964. 28 years later in 1992, another new model was released carrying the name Yacht-Master. This new design was the second Rolex watch, after the Submariner, to be developed around the Nautical theme. The latest new model, the Sky-Dweller, was introduced in 2012. Thus, historically Rolex makes new references, or versions, of models often, but it seems to take at least 20 years for Rolex to release a completely new model. However, when new models, like the Yacht-Master, are released, it is soon clear that their look, feel, and features were worth the wait.

Rolex Watch Resources

A guide to the Rolex Yacht-Master

Over the years, the Rolex Yacht-Master watch has grown significantly, becoming one of the most diverse ranges of Rolex watch available.

The evolution of the luxury brand’s classic sports watch has extended beyond imaginable parallels, offering the avid collector various choices in bracelet style, bezel material and case size over three entire decades. As such, the Yacht-Master continues to prove itself a valuable and dependable mainstay within the manufacturer’s current catalogue, despite many models having become discontinued over the years. To define the Yacht-Master by Rolex, one would categorize it as a luxury sports watch, yet the collection can be broken down into two watches that remain incredibly similar to one another, despite a slightly different name.

. One is the Yacht-Master - a watch that can be considered the original sports model designed by Rolex, intended for setting sail with and enjoying whilst sailing aboard a luxury yacht. The Yacht-Master II, however, is designed for more precise functionality. Equipped with all the technology to enable an individual to record regatta timings, this younger distinction of the model is classified as a watch for racing a yacht as opposed to enjoying alongside a ride on one.

Whether wearing a Rolex Yacht-Master for aesthetical or practical reasons, however, its sleek looks and refined qualities are characteristics that are sought after far and wide amongst Rolex fans. Like with every Rolex, however, there are some factors to research and consider before investing in your very first Yacht-Master and these include pricing, history and features amongst many others.

What are the differences between the Yacht-Master and Yacht-Master II?

To break down the key differences between the Rolex Yacht-Master and the Rolex Yacht-Master II, here are a few quick facts. The Yacht-Master is available in sizes of 29mm, 35mm, 37mm, 40mm and 42mm and is manufactured in Rolesium, Everose Rolesor, yellow gold Rolesor, solid 18ct yellow gold, solid 18ct white gold and 18ct Everose gold. The watch offers running hours, minutes and seconds and features a date function at 3 o’clock. A bidirectional rotating bezel has a 60-minute scale upon its surface and each model promises a water resistance of 100 meters. The models are offered on an Oyster bracelet or Oysterflex bracelet. The Rolex Yacht-Master II, however, is available in a 44mm size and is offered in a solid stainless steel version, as well as Everose Rolesor, 18ct yellow gold and 18ct white gold. Function-wise, the models offer running seconds with an adjustable countdown timer with a mechanical memory. The watch also features a ring command bezel, along with 100-meter water resistance and is fitted on an Oyster bracelet.

A brief history of the Rolex Yacht-Master watch collection

A brief history of both the Rolex Yacht-Master and Yacht-Master II watches is beneficial before investing in a model from this range. Though not introduced until 1992, the Rolex Yacht-Master watch had foundations secured for its release much earlier than that. The brand had partnered with the New York Yacht Club back in 1958, laying down the roots to its heritage in sailing long before the iconic sports watch was conceptualized. By this point, Rolex had ready developed its first waterproof watch thanks to the 1926 Oyster case.

In 1966, the Gipsy Moth IV yacht was sailed 29,600 miles around the world by Francis Chichester, who wore a Rolex on his wrist amongst very few other measuring tools including a sextant and nautical chart. Thanks to the Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch he wore during his journey, time could be tracked amongst rough conditions for an entire 226 days whilst at sea. It put Rolex officially on the radar of seafarers as a manufacturer capable of producing robust and reliable tools for facing the challenging conditions experienced at sea.

In 1992 the world’s first official Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master was released and was crafted entirely from 18ct yellow gold, cementing its status as a luxury tool watch. Over the next 15 years, Rolex would experiment with various case materials until in 2007, the first Yacht-Master II was born. Sportsmen could utilize this tool watch whilst regatta racing – its chronograph features stood out clearly and legibly across the surface of the dial. A programmable countdown timer enabled the individual to measure the countdown time before a race commences for improved precision and a better start to the competition. With flyback and fly-forward functionality, synchronization with the Race Committee was a breeze.

Current Popular Rolex Yacht-Master models

As mentioned, it is the Yacht-Master’s affinity with the sea and its diverse range of styles and case materials that make this collection so widely sought-after within the Rolex watch stratosphere. Paired with cutting-edge technology and primed for yacht race competing, the series has much to offer any luxury sports watch fan. Here are just a few Rolex Yacht-Master watches that have proven their popularity as both a tool and an investment since their release.

Rolex Yacht-Master ref 126622

Rolex Yacht-Master watches made from Rolesium make for an interesting talking point to wear with elegant attire and often make for sophisticated gifts to mark an anniversary or wedding day, especially for those who prefer their wristwatches to exude a very classic look. That said, Rolex packs a lot of modern technology into the design of a Yacht-Master watch such as the model 1266, which not only offers a very compact and manageable case size for those with a slender wrist but has also been forged from a material that is exclusive to the Yacht-Master watch range itself. Stainless Steel and platinum are materials chosen for their robust, corrosion-resistant and luxurious properties, whilst the three-link design of the oyster bracelet creates a timeless look whether paired with elegant or casual attire. Polished middle links and brushed outer links create a unique look against the wrist, especially when you consider that these finishes differ from those seen in the Rolex Submariner and Sea-Dweller models, which instead offer a fully brushed bracelet finish.

Rolex Yacht-Master ref 116680

One of the most popular Rolex Yacht-Master watches has to be the ref 116680 with a blue ceramic bezel. Rolex had begun equipping its watches with Cerachrom bezels back in the year 2005. This model was made available in stainless steel, two-tone Everose, or yellow gold, and since it belongs to the Yacht-Master II collection, measures a broad 44mm diameter. As of 2019, Rolex Yacht-Master II watches were equipped with the Calibre 3235 – a trusted workhorse for many of Rolex’s models. Framed inside this striking blue bezel is a white dial adorned with a small second sub-counter in blue at 6 o’clock, along with a countdown that can be programmed for a duration of between 1 and 10 minutes. The programming is memorized by the mechanism so that at a reset it returns to the previous setting and once launched, can be synchronized on the fly to match the official race countdown.

Rolex Yacht-Master ref 116655

The Rolex Yacht-Master ref 116656 is, without a doubt, one of the most coveted and popular models from this series of luxury sports watches. The model not only features a matte black ceramic bezel but features a set of two-textured, highly polished and raised numerals upon its sandblasted surface. The watch is fitted to an Oysterflex bracelet, promising all-round comfort and thanks to its unusual choice of contrasting rich black and luxurious pink gold colours, can be enjoyed by both male and female Rolex fans alike. An Everose case and gold serrated ring complete its look, combining nicely with the elegant black bezel, whilst on the display itself, cathedral-type hands and a cyclops date window reside.

The Rolex Yacht-Master II ref 226659

Slightly larger in size is the 42mm Rolex Yacht-Master II watch with the reference 226659, which features a stunning 18ct white gold case and bezel with a striking black Cerachrom bezel inlay for precise tracking of elapsed time. The Oysterflex bracelet is just one of the many appealing features of the Rolex Yacht-Master series. Although creating the aesthetic and sporty look of a rubber strap with its outer elastomer rubber shell in black - inside the structure of the bracelet is a series of flexible metal inserts. The Rolex Yacht-Master II ref 226659 debuted in 2019 with the desirable Calibre 3235 secured to the heart of its case, creating plenty of power reserve for those occasions when taken off the wrist, promising superior reliability and accuracy. Its classic black and white gold colourway make it easy to pair wot formal, casual or elegant attire.

There will always be plenty of reasons to invest in a Rolex Yacht-Master watch. Having been equipped with a reliable movement and a set of unique features that enable superior regatta timings out on the water, there is little else on the market that matches the supreme craftsmanship and instantly recognizable aesthetics of the iconic Rolex Yacht-Master watch. Whether you have any use for the polarizing watch’s regatta timer feature or not, it is one of the most niche complications watches imaginable. The Yacht-Master will always be a timepiece that holds its value, symbolizing a brand of significant provenance and value.

More Rolex guides

To find out more about which Rolex hold their value you can read more of our guides where we cover all Rolex Nicknames or our classic guide to the Day Date models and our comparision with their sister brand: Rolex vs Tudor .

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History and Evolution of the Rolex Yacht-Master

History and evolution of the rolex yacht-master more luxurious than the submariner, sportier than the datejust, and simpler than the gmt-master, the rolex yacht-master is the brand’s nautical-inspired luxury sports watch. the yacht-master is also one of the younger rolex watch collections having first made its debut in the 1990s. join us as we dive into the history and evolution of the rolex yacht-master, yellow gold yacht-master 16628.

While Rolex had been a longtime supporter of sailing and experimented with a Yacht-Master dial prototype in the 1960s, it was not until the 1990s that the Crown unveiled a watch officially dedicated to nautical lifestyle. The first model to kick off the YM collection was the Yacht-Master ref. 16628. Crafted almost entirely in 18k yellow gold, it was clear from the onset that Rolex was positioning the Yacht-Master as a sports watch with plenty of style and flair. In fact, at a quick glance, the Yacht-Master and the Submariner share quite a few design traits.

Yacht-Master 16628 with mother-of-pearl dial

The Yacht-Master ref. 16628 features a 40mm Oyster case topped with a bi-directional rotating timing bezel marked to 60 minutes. The Yacht-Master dial is similar to other Rolex Oyster Professional watches with the familiar Mercedes-style center hands, in addition to the mix of round, rectangular and triangular hour markers. To emphasize the opulent nature of the watch, Rolex also offered dial versions with ruby-set hour markers, sapphire-set hour markers, and black onyx-set hour markers. The Yacht-Master includes a date window at 3 o’clock along with the customary Cyclops magnification lens above it, affixed to the exterior of the sapphire crystal.

Rolex opted to fit the Yacht-Master with an Oyster bracelet and like all its automatic date/time models of the era, the watch ran on Caliber 3135. Rolex continued to produce the Yacht-Master 16628 until around 2011 and never replaced it with another full yellow gold Yacht-Master after that.

The ladies’ yellow gold Yacht-Master ref. 69628 with a 29mm case and the midsize yellow gold Yacht-Master ref. 68628 with a 35mm case joined the collection in 1994.

The Rolesium Yacht-Master 16622

In 1999, Rolex introduced a brand new version of the Yacht-Master in a metal combination the brand calls Rolesium. While Rolesor is Rolex’s term for combining gold and steel on a watch, Rolesium is the brand’s name for using platinum and steel together on a watch. The Yacht-Master was the first (and remains the only) Rolex Rolesium model.

On top of the Rolesium Yacht-Master ref. 16622 ‘s 40mm steel case is a platinum bezel with high polished raised numerals on a sandblasted background. What’s more, the platinum dial also features a sandblasted finish, along with pops of red on the seconds hand and the YACHT-MASTER label.

The Oyster bracelet is fashioned from stainless steel but also combines a mix of finishes with high-polished center links flanked by brushed center links. Therefore, while the Rolesium Yacht-Master ref. 16622 is monochromatic due to its use of white metals, there is plenty of textural interest thanks to the range of surface finishes.

Rolex also made the Rolesium Yacht-Master with a ladies’ 29mm size (ref. 69622 then ref. 169622 ) and a midsize 35mm size (ref. 68622 then ref. 168622).

In 2012, Rolex replaced Yacht-Master ref. 16622 with the Yacht-Master ref. 116622 , which features an upgraded clasp with the Eaasylink extension system and the blue Chromalight lume instead of the green lume.

Yellow Rolesor Yacht-Master 16623

The Rolesor Yacht-Master ref. 16623 in a two-tone colorway mixing yellow gold and stainless steel joined the lineup in 2005.

Interestingly, Rolex already made yellow Rolesor Yacht-Master models but in smaller sizes. The two-tone midsize 35mm Yacht-Master ref. 68623 and two-tone ladies’ 29mm Yacht-Master ref. 69623 were released in 1995 and later replaced by the upgraded 168623 and 169623 references, respectively, in the early 2000s.

The Yacht-Master 16623, however, was the first two-tone version in the men’s 40mm size. The 40mm stainless steel case includes an 18k yellow gold bezel, complete with raised numerals in a high polished finish. Furthermore, the two-tone Oyster bracelet of the Yacht-Master 16623 features yellow gold center links flanked by two rows of stainless steel

Rolex eventually discontinued the yellow Rolesor Yacht-Master 16623 in 2016 to make way for another type of two-tone YM, which we will discuss shortly below.

Everose Gold Yacht-Master 116655

In 2015, Rolex released the Yacht-Master 116655, which was not only the first Yacht-Master crafted from Everose gold (Rolex’s patented rose gold alloy) but also the very first Rolex fitted with an Oysterflex bracelet. The Oysterflex bracelet is Rolex’s approach to a black rubber strap, comprised of a metal titanium nickel alloy blade covered in a black elastomer coating.

Everose Gold Yacht-Master models introduced at Baselworld 2015

Additionally, the Everose gold Yacht-Master 116655 includes a black Cerachrom (Rolex’s proprietary ceramic alloy) bezel–another first for the collection. Matching the black bracelet and black bezel of the Yacht-Master ref. 116655 is the black dial, punctuated with rose gold surrounds framing the lume plots and rose gold Mercedes-style hands.

That same year, Rolex also introduced the Everose gold and black Oysterflex Yacht-Master ref. 268655 with a smaller 37mm case size. This new case size effectively replaced the previous ladies and midsize versions of the Yacht-Master as Rolex has now stopped making the 35mm and 29mm editions.

Everose Rolesor Yacht-Master 116621

As previously mentioned, Rolex discontinued the yellow gold and stainless steel Yacht-Master model. However, taking the place of that two-tone version is the new Rolesor Yacht-Master ref. 116621 , which combines rose gold and steel, presented in 2016.

The 40mm stainless steel case of the Yacht-Master ref. 116621 includes a rotating bezel in 18k Everose gold. And like previous versions, the raised numerals on the bezel are high-polished, providing a contrast to the sandblasted background.

In true Rolex two-tone fashion, the Oyster bracelet of the Rolesor Yacht-Master ref. 116621 includes rose gold center links in between the exterior steel links. The bracelet also comes with the practical Easylink adjustment system on the clasp.

Yacht-Master With Caliber 3235

Just this year at Baselworld 2019 , Rolex unveiled a new batch of Yacht-Master 40 references, all fitted with the new-generation Caliber 3235 automatic movement with an increased power reserve of 72 hours. There’s the Everose gold and Oysterflex Yacht-Master ref. 126655, the steel and platinum Rolesium Yacht-Master ref. 126622, and the Everose gold and steel Rolesor Yacht-Master ref. 126621.

With these new releases, all previous 40mm Yacht-Master ref. 1166xx references are now discontinued.

White Gold Yacht-Master 42 226659

The big news that came out of the Rolex pavilion at Baselworld 2019 was the launch of the Yacht-Master ref. 226659. With its new 42mm case size, this is the biggest Yacht-Master to date and the first to be made in white gold.

Similar to its Everose gold sibling, Rolex fitted white gold Yacht-Master 226659 with a black Cerachrom bezel, a black Oysterflex bracelet, and a black dial. Under the solid white gold caseback is also the automatic Caliber 3255 movement.

While the Rolex Yacht-Master has been around for less than three decades, it’s clear that this has been an active part of the company’s catalog. The history and evolution of the Rolex Yacht-Master have paved the way for a bevy of sizes, metals, and styles to choose among current-production and pre-owned Yacht-Master models . This is the perfect watch model if you’re looking for a sporty Rolex with some serious flair.

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The Rolex Yachtmaster: history, models, price

Rolex Yacht-Master Dix Millionieme Chronometre 9

Table of Contents

(NEWS) The Monaco Legend Group will auction a one-of-a-kind Rolex Yacht-Master

The rolex yacht-master dix millionieme chronometre.

The Yacht-Master auctioned on April 22 and 23 in Monaco is one of the most attractive one-of-a-kind contemporary Rolex watches and popped up in the early nineties to celebrate the ten-millionth Rolex watch equipped featuring the Chronometer Certificate.

Rolex Yacht-Master Dix Millionieme Chronometre 3

Interestingly, it is not a Daytona, a Submariner or a Day-Date but a Rolex Yacht-Master, thus adding additional flavour to our guide as no other model could ever do. May we call it the Rolex Yacht-Master Heiniger ? Yes, we might, but we need to move forward and provide further details.

The Heiniger family and Rolex

The model pictured here was manufactured under the Heiniger family’s leadership at Rolex; they managed the brand since Andre Heiniger was appointed President of Rolex in 1964 through his son Patrick’s appointment in 1992.

Rolex Yacht-Master Dix Millionieme Chronometre 1

This one-off platinum Yacht-Master is a prototype conceived to celebrate such a milestone and holds all the features found on first-class super-exclusive Rolex timepieces, and adopts baguette-cut sapphires and diamonds replacing the stock indexes plus the “DIX MILLIONIEME CHRONOMETRE” print on the dial, and the calibre 3135’s oscillating mass.

Rolex Yacht-Master Dix Millionieme Chronometre 7

The Heiniger family had, no doubt, a soft spot for platinum watches ; three unique platinum Daytona also appeared under their management and, according to industry’s rumours, the Daytona 116598 SACO, better known as the Leopard, was among their projects inspired, it seems, by Nina Stevens, Patrick Heiniger’s girlfriend back then.

Rolex Yacht-Master Dix Millionieme Chronometre 8

However, the Rolex Yacht-Master Heiniger is not a unicorn adorning a watch museum ; it will soon go under the hammer thanks to the Monaco Legends Group, the auction house co-managed by vintage watchmaking guru Davide Parmegiani, the 22 and 23 April.

Rolex Yacht-Master Dix Millionieme Chronometre 5

Given the relevance of the timepiece and its exclusivity, we expect fierce competition among collectors to make this piece theirs. What is the auction’s base price? The current estimation is between one and two million euros , quite a hefty price gap but something hard to predict for any watch expert.

The origins of the Rolex Yachtmaster

When did the Rolex Yachtmaster first appear? It’s hard to define. The name “Yacht Master” was filed for patent by Rolex in 1950 and, according to rumours and several non-confirmed historical sources, marked the brand’s willingness to introduce a new collection atop the top-selling and sporty Submariner; yet, it’s hard to describe the time lapse between patent and the first official commercial release. When we look at the current collection, we can also find inspiration in the most challenging endeavours across the oceans, up to professional yacht racing.

For instance, the former includes the expeditions set out by Sir Robin Knox-Johnston . He completed the first-ever solo circumnavigation of the globe, the Sunday Times Golden Globe Race of 1969, but we can’t forget what Sir Francis Chichester achieved, too; he circumnavigated the world from West to East in nine months and one day between 1966 and 1977 aboard the never-forgotten Gipsy Moth IV.

During his expedition, Chichester wore a Rolex Oyster Perpetual Chronometer, laying the foundations for what a Rolex watch represents when tested under extreme weather conditions on land, sea and air.

The first Yachtmaster

The first Rolex Yachtmaster dates back to 1992 ; it was marketed as reference 16628 and is the second most recent new Rolex watch after the more contemporary Rolex Sky-Dweller.

The collection’s timeline has undergone a bizarre evolution compared to similar Rolex watch collections.

Showcasing an 18-carat yellow gold case and bracelet paired with an unusual white dial , it housed the movement 3135 and is undeniably an evolution of the design codes seen on a Submariner, despite the journey to the first edition being unexpected and with plenty of testing prototypes.

Was the Yachtmaster pictured above the first attempt ever? It was from a commercial standpoint, not from a product perspective instead. The Yachtmaster moniker first surfaced between 1967 and 1969 when Rolex released a couple of prototypes based on the Daytona , whose case diameter had grown to 39.5 mm. The timepieces mentioned above belong to Italian collector John Goldberger and artist Eric Clapton.

The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 and 37 mm

Here is the Yacht Master’s “bread and butter”, undergoing several evolutions to end up with the model pictured here, as an example, in its gold and steel livery. With Jean-Frèdèric Dufour appointed CEO, Rolex has revisited the entire offering, which includes 40 and 37-mm large models, but has never hit the spot as the most wanted Professional Rolex among enthusiasts. The Daytona , Submariner, or GMT Master 2 are far more sought-after than any Yachtmaster, although the appreciation has steadily grown year after year .

Instead, the Yachtmaster’s technical development began with the 2007 Rolex Yacht-Master 2 116680 , whose sailing-professionals-oriented complication proves, alongside a Rolex Sky-Dweller, how much Rolex technicians are up to the task when asked to design a mechanically complicated watch.

Rolesor and Rolesium.

The current Yachtmaster collection with bracelets includes a completely revised range, comprising seven models : four 40 mm and three 37 mm models. They are available exclusively in steel and gold or platinum; some come in Rolesium (steel and platinum), others in Rolesor (steel and gold) such as, for instance, the Rolex Yachtmaster 40mm model in steel and Everose gold pictured here, also available with a black dial and as a 37mm size.

Let’s look closer at the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 in Steel and Everose Gold : it combines 904L steel and Everose pink gold, the Rolex-patented pink gold alloy adopting a specific silver and copper percentage to create an alloy capable of offering above-the-average shine, and wear resistance over time.

The Yachtmaster’s bezel

What makes the Yacht-Master unique is the bezel’s design in finish and functionality; it houses mirror-polished raised indexes and numerals on a sandblasted base and comes as a one-piece of gold or platinum. The polished to brushed finish appears on the Oyster bracelet and case sides, lugs included.

The Yachtmaster is widely considered a more luxurious take on the Submariner and a transition model between a sporty and classic Rolex watch with a gold case, as proved by the slightly curved lugs and the case side, making the Yachtmaster closer to four and five-digit Submariners as less professional than other timepieces belonging to the same product category, as exemplified by the specs sheet. The bezel is graduated but is bidirectional and water-resistant up to 100 metres .

Comparing current and first-ever Yachtmaster like the Rolex 69623 or 169622, for instance, lies in the options available: you’ll find the blue dial exclusively available on Rolesium models, while the Rolesor offers a chocolate brown or black dial , lovingly contrasting the case and bracelet’s tones, in our opinion.

The calibre 3235

Since 2019, the Rolex Yachtmaster has housed the latest-gen Rolex calibre 3235. Therefore, all models can run for at least 70 hours when fully wound.

The watch is certified as a Superlative Chronometer according to Rolex standards.

The calibre 2236

Instead, the 37 mm model adopts the smaller movement 2236, whose technical specifications differ slightly .

The main difference is that the Siloxy hairspring with a flat terminal curve , introduced by Rolex in 2014, replaced the Parachrom Blue one.

The Rolex Yachtmaster Oysterflex

At Baselworld 2015, Rolex released the first Yachtmaster with an Oysterflex bracelet , the brand’s patented rubber strap equipped with an inner nickel and titanium alloy, exclusively offered with a 40mm or 37mm gold case. Looking back at the first-ever YM, the Yachtmaster Oysterflex is perhaps the perfect successor to the 1992 Yacht Master.

rolex yacht master 40 oysterflex ref 126655

The first release appeared in Everose rose gold. Such a new generation best embodies the collection’s spirit ; it belongs to the Professional line of watches but is more luxurious, and gold highlights the Yacht Master’s “carrure”.

The new Yachtmaster Oysterflex also introduced the first-ever matte ceramic bezel ; it mimics a Rolesor or Rolesium’s, but the inlay is a single piece of matt black ceramic.

As with the two-tone models, the 40 and 37-mm case options adopt the 3235 and 2236 , respectively. The new model had a stunning success, and Rolex soon expanded the product range by offering a more generous 42 mm case size (however, the 40 mm model is unparalleled, in our opinion).

The 42mm collection is available in yellow or white gold , while the 40mm and 37mm models only come with an Everose rose gold case. We think Rolex will soon extend the Oysterflex collection by adopting new case materials.

rolex yacht master 42 titanio ben ainslie

In 2020, Ineos Britannia’s skipper Ben Ainslie was spotted wearing a titanium Yachtmaster 42 during a training session. After the Rolex Deepsea Challenge Titanium RLX ‘s unveil, this proto will likely make it to reality anytime soon.

rolex yacht master 42 ref 226659 occhio di falco

Before moving to the next chapter, remember that we discovered an odd model while surfing the Rolex official website: Rolex Yachtmaster 42 Hawkeye or Yachtmaster Falcon’s Eye , pictured above.

The Rolex Yachtmaster 2

Rolex is a manufacturer whose capabilities include rather mechanically-complicated watches ; it is something most people are unaware of. In the same price range as a Daytona, for example, you can opt for at least two complicated models: one is the regatta-ready Yachtmaster 2.

If an ordinary Yachtmaster is not as “professional” as its siblings, the Yachtmaster 2 is a full-fledged tool watch for professional skippers.

The complicated Rolex: from the Sky-Dweller to the Yacht-Master 2

The Rolex Yachtmaster 2 is bold and hefty; it’s a regatta timer and something you will, on paper, disregard when compared to a Rolex Sky-Dweller. The Rolex Yachtmaster 2 was conceived to provide professional skippers with a wrist instrument capable of accurately measuring the countdown to start a regatta.

The link between Rolex and yachting is long-established: the brand has associated its image with several sailing competitions like the Farr 40 or the Sidney–Hobart ever since. Pictured below is a map of the current partnerships.

The 5 to 10 minutes preceding the start of a regatta are paramount to any skipper and their crew; last-minute performance before the start is triggered can separate victory from defeat.

Most Regatta watches do not offer a dedicated function but make the most of ordinary chronograph functions. In contrast, the Rolex Yachtmaster II has a dedicated counter on the dial, coaxial to the bezel, equipped with a graduated scale from 0 to 10 minutes and an easy-to-read arrow hand.

The Countdown function: how to activate it.

The timer setting is straightforward and achieved by combining the bezel, crown and button at 4 o’clock in this sequence. The first operation is to rotate the bezel counter-clockwise to activate the small countdown counter adjustment system.

The bezel will automatically lock after a 90° rotation or when the “Yacht-Master II” writing appears on the right-hand side of the watch (the rotation axis of the crown ideally cuts the wording in two halves). Subsequently, please push the button located at 4 o’clock. Unscrew the crown until it locks in position 1 ; from that moment on, you can control the adjustment of the (jumping) 10-minute scale in one-minute intervals by rotating the crown clockwise.

After stopping the minute counter on the desired value, you need to rotate the bezel clockwise until it clicks into the position where the “Yacht-Master II” writing is again aligned at the bottom (-90 °, back to the original place).

At the end of this rotation, the two-minute scales, located on the bezel and the dial, respectively, will be fully aligned. By screwing back in the winding crown, you can restart the countdown (using the button at 2 o’clock); the red hand in the middle will start running, and the minutes’ countdown will begin .

During the countdown, you can stop the hand can by using the button at 2 o’clock or re-set the complete countdown with the button at 4 o’clock (Flyback). The countdown will start from the original position in the second case scenario. When the countdown has finished, the minute’s hand will also stop, while the second’s hand will continue to run indefinitely. The Rolex Yachtmaster II is a chronograph with a Flyback function .

The 2017 Rolex Yachtmaster II 116680 reference has replaced the previous reference by introducing a series of updates ; the new version is now equipped with Mercedes-styled hands, thus aligning itself with the family feeling of the other Oyster Perpetual divers, like the Submariner. Moreover, new applied indices located at 12 and 6′ clock have been launched (arrow-shaped and rectangular-shaped, respectively).

Ring Command and calibre 4161

The Ring Command bezel is integrated with the calibre and is an active part of the user experience. The level of complication and perfection this mechanism requires (firm clicks and no play) is more challenging than any other Rolex timepiece, making this watch extremely attractive.

At the same time, as per the usual Rolex tradition, the complication is concealed through a simplified aesthetic , although the dial is still more complex and crowded than those standards that Rolex has made us accustomed to, and this is one of the reasons why a Rolex Yachtmaster II is rarely a first choice when it comes to selecting a timepiece.

Rolex Yachtmaster Prices

The price list starts with the Yacht-Master 37 mm at 14,450 Euros and grows to the 43,800 Euros needed for a Yacht-Master 2 model in yellow gold . For instance, a more exclusive price list is requested, as with the reference 126655. The listed price range here is updated to February 2023; if you’re looking for a more comprehensive overview, please head to our dedicated article; there, you’ll find a price list and evolution since 2021 regarding the most coveted professional Rolex watches.

(Photo credit: Horbiter®)

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The History and Development of the Rolex Yacht-Master

Published on Tuesday 22nd of February 2022 Rolex Watch History

In the mid-1980s, Rolex were having great success with their line of sports watches that had remained unchanged for many years. However rumour has it that at some point Rolex were looking at redesigning the iconic Submariner . Thankfully Rolex eventually came to their senses and left the design of the Submariner alone. However, the work that had gone into the redesigned watch was rather good and it seemed a shame to leave it on the design room floor. Therefore, in the years that followed, Rolex used the new design intended for the Submariner to make a brand new line of maritime watches for the luxury market, and so the Rolex Yacht-Master was born.

The Rolex Yacht-Master made its debut in 1992, and was the first new design in 25 years (since the Sea-Dweller in 1967). Although it obviously shares its DNA with the rugged steel tool watch that is the Submariner, the Yacht-Master is designed to be a more luxurious offering, appealing to those who spend their spare time relaxing on superyachts above the water, as opposed to working under it. Originally only available in solid 18kt yellow gold, the Yacht-Master was, and still is, the only Rolex watch available in three sizes, with a 29mm - ref 69628, a 35mm - ref 68628, and the most popular being the 40mm variant ref 16628. Its wealthy target market was also well catered for in dial options, with options including various colours of mother of pearl, as well as a deep sunburst blue, with the option of hour markers in ruby-red, sapphire, and black onyx-set. The most popular dial combination being a striking white dial and contrasting black hour markers.

The Rolex Yacht-Master was exclusively available in 18kt yellow gold until 1995, when Rolex introduced a new Yacht-Master in steel and yellow gold. A few years later they added a steel and platinum model, all with the unique sandblasted finish bezel and highly polished raised numerals. An oyster bracelet and polished centre links made them stand out as the dressy luxury option in the Rolex professional line-up. All three metal variations of Rolex Yacht-Master were available in three sizes and various dial options. It wasn't until 2015 that the Rolex Yacht-Master range saw a change in design.

By the mid-2010s, Rolex had stopped making the solid 18kt yellow gold Yacht-Master, with only the steel/platinum, and steel/yellow gold versions being available until 2015. Rolex also stopped making the steel and yellow gold Yacht-Master in order to make way for a new generation of Rolex Yacht-Master. Rolex are normally trend setters in the world of watches, with many fashion brands trying to replicate the aesthetics of the Rolex range, but with the use of rose gold in fashion getting more and more popular, the Rolex Yacht-Master would be the latest in the range to adopt the ‘Everose’ material (Rolex’s own rendition of rose gold).

As well as the introduction of rose gold, the new generation of Yacht-Master ref 116655 included a first for Rolex, the option of a rubber strap. The soft black rubber of the new ‘Oysterflex’ bracelet has a flexible titanium-nickel alloy core to ensure its strength and flexibility. As well as the introduction of the Oysterflex bracelet, the new Rolex Yacht-Master also had a new bezel, keeping its sand blasted finish with raised numbers, but now made of a black scratch resistant ceramic, giving the bezel a matt black finish to contrast to the highly polished rose gold case.

A year after the introduction of the rose gold on black rubber Rolex Yacht-Master 116655, Rolex replaced the steel and yellow gold line of Yacht-Masters, with a steel and rose gold range of watches. This colour scheme, like the rose gold on rubber bracelet, is available in two sizes, a full sized 40mm watch ref 116621 (replaced with the ref 126621 in 2019), and a reduced size of 37mm ref 268621. This addition to the Rolex Yacht-Master Range means that the collection has three different variations, with two size options for each. The new steel and rose gold model, the rose gold on rubber bracelet model and the steel and platinum Yacht-Master, which is available in a 40mm (ref 126622), and in 37mm (ref 268622) size. This has two distinct dial options, a deep blue dial with a line of red text and matching seconds hand, and a dark slate dial with a turquoise blue line of text and matching seconds hand.

Amongst the new releases at the Baselworld watch fair in 2019, there was a new Yacht-Master to join the line-up. With a new case size of 42mm, the new ref 226659 is the biggest Yacht-Master yet. It has the same black Oysterflex rubber bracelet and black ceramic sandblast finish bezel like the rose gold Yacht-Masters in the range, but this new model is exclusively available in 18kt white gold and gloss black dial, giving the latest Rolex Yacht-Master a contrasting monochrome look.

Today the Rolex Yacht-Master sits in the Rolex Professional Watches range, alongside its bigger brother the Yacht-Master II, being a modern sports watch. The Yacht-Master is generating far more interest in comparison to the supply that Rolex are giving to authorised dealers, and thus the price of the Rolex Yacht-Master on the used watch market is steadily increasing.

Author: Watches by Timepiece

Looking for a pre-owned Rolex Yacht Master?

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Owner review: Rolex Yacht Master 16622

The forgotten rolex wildcard..

| Wrist Size: 6.7 inch

The 1980s was a time of innovation at Rolex, with a refresh of everything in the Rolex catalog and putting a more modern and premium look to the entire line up. Gone are the days of Matte Painted dials, and hand-wound movements of the Daytona but in with the new Glossy dials, White Gold Indices and Sapphire Crystals, similar to the Rolex Line-Up you see today. The 1980s brought change aesthetically and internally to the entire catalog, but while Rolex was in development of the then new Submariner 16610, the iconic design you know today was a redesign of the original?

In the 1980s, Rolex wanted to significantly update and modernize the Rolex Submariner and give a more modern take of the outgoing Submariner 16800 of the late 70s-mid 80s. Rolex experimented with several designs, trying to give a more modern look while keeping the essence and design aspects of a submariner. They were adamant about keeping the submariner DNA for the new redesign and were scared that when unveiled, the design may not appeal to the fans of the brand and the submariner. We are of course talking about one of the most iconic and recognisable watches of all time. The thing was, they really liked the new design, since its more sleek and modern than the outgoing 16800. At the end of the day the Submariner 16610 you know and love came out and was an instant hit and the rest was history. But what happened to the prototype design? The Rolex Yacht Master 16622 was born.

In 1997, we saw the introduction of the Stainless steel Rolex Yacht Master 16622. The 16622 series came in two dial variations Blue and wait for it…..Platinum. You Read it right, they used a solid platinum dial and a platinum rotating bezel, unique only to the Yachtmaster Line. This was the first time Rolex has experimented with the mix of elements being steel and Platinum in a sports watch .

The Rolex Yacht Master 16622 was also the first new release to use super luminova instead of tritium. The Rolesium Yacht Master was seen as a very unique watch that was somewhat oddball in the world of watches because of its combination of materials and its flashy looks featuring the polished centre link bracelet.

If you wanted a more elegant sports watch that looks good on formal occasions and also in the sports club, then the yacht master is the watch for you. The platinum dial glistens under the light and looks simply stunning together with the red contrast “Yacht Master” text and red seconds hand.

The Ladies 29mm and MidSize 35mm versions were also available and in my opinion, would be a stunning watch to pair with your significant other. One of the biggest drawbacks was the price, it was one of, if not the most expensive steel Rolex in the retail catalogue.

The Rolex Yacht Master 16622 was updated in 2013 with the 116622. It included updates such as the more modern Rolex easy link clasp, an updated dial with thinner fonts and a smoother glossy look as opposed to the more metallic look of the old dial. The addition of super luminova instead of the old luminova also make the dial look different. Changes were also made to the bracelet with the end-links fitting much more nicely into the lugs.

Recently we have seen many things happen in the watch market . Rolex Sports Models have had a meteoric rise in value, the hype around every sports model in the Rolex range and truly there insane prices for some pieces in the Submariner ,GMT, Explorer and especially Daytona lines.

In my opinion the Rolex Yacht Master 16622 is a lot of watch for the money. You get precious metals, flashy looks, stunning dial, reliable movement, beautiful finishing and modern looks for around 8,000 USD or 400k pesos. All less than a new submariner !

Rolex Yacht Master 16622

One of the cheapest and best value Rolex sports models out there, or less than a new Submariner or the Submariner of its time, the yacht master is a great deal, especially if you want your first expensive piece. For collectors, this would fit collections perfectly, being a unique and elegant addition to your collection and your daily rotation.
The Yachtmaster has become iconic and has appeared on the wrist on many stars such as Brad Pitt, Hulk Hogan and most notably Bruce Willis.
Great wearability.
It's a Scratch Magnet, especially with the giant polished center links.
It's heavy, it has a good heft but it gets bothersome at times, due to its sheer weight caused by the platinum dial and bezel.
The size, some may find it bug due to the big bezel and smooth case, it appears bigger on some than the Submariner of the time.

Review Breakdown

Wearability 0%

thedudeschronos

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THE COLLECTIVE

European Watch Company – Est. 1993

Almost Obscure: The Rolex Yacht-Master II 116689

Published by mike razak.

View all posts by Mike Razak

Rolex does not simply release watches on a whim. New models are rare, and updates to existing models are often minor, sometimes not even warranting an announcement. Regardless of timing or subtlety, everything The Crown does is met with scrutiny and drama. So, too, it was when the Yacht-Master II was released in 2007. The watch was met with mixed reactions: With an obscure complication that no one really asked for and the largest case in Rolex’s catalog, some thought it sullied the robust elegance of its forebear. Others rightfully praised its technical innovations. Fast forward more than a decade and the model seems to have won out: the Rolex Yacht-Master II 116689 seen here (and its sister references) remains in the Rolex catalog and is a favorite among those seeking a Rolex with a bit more panache and functionality than the standard Submariner.

When the original Yacht-Master was introduced in 1992, it was Rolex’s first entirely new model since the Sea-Dweller in 1967. The watch was an immediate hit with the seagoing elite, and has remained incredibly popular, with a variety of colorways and sizes released to satisfy demand. Then, in 2007, the Yacht-Master II was released. Rolex spent over 35,000 hours designing the movement for the watch, which was designed to aid skippers in tracking the starting sequence of a regatta, including a novel integrated bezel and programmable countdown timer with memory function. Two models were part of the original release: the 116688 in solid 18kt gold with a blue ceramic bezel and the 116689 in 18kt white gold with an embossed platinum bezel.

Design Details

At 44mm wide and 14mm thick, the Yacht-Master II features the largest production case Rolex offers. Despite its size, the watch is good to just 100m of water resistance—certainly sufficient for most aquatic adventures, but a subtle hint that Yacht-Master II is aimed at those who plan to remain aboard. The solid 18k white gold case and bracelet of the 116689 remain classic Rolex: polished throughout, with gentle curves, it gives way to the dual-finished Oyster bracelet, which features an Oysterlock clasp and Easylink 5mm extension for fine-tuned sizing. The patented Triplock crown and its guards maintain the aesthetic, with ringed chronograph pushers at its flanks. A white gold bezel—dubbed the Ring Command bezel for its added functionality—features a frosted platinum insert with embossed, polished numerals and model name. Protecting the dial is a sapphire crystal.

Despite the watch’s functionality, Rolex has kept things extremely legible with a clean white dial. Square hour markers are applied and filled with the brand’s proprietary Chromalight lume. At 9 o’clock, the Crown logo is accompanied by the traditional Rolex dial text. At 6 o’clock, a running seconds subdial features a radial finished ring. The hands are all blued, with the hour and minute featuring lume; the minute hand has a cutout to allow for better timing legibility. In a large arc bounded by bright blue, the 10-minute regatta scale lines up perfectly with both the applied markers and the bezel. The countdown time is displayed by a bright red chronograph sweep hand and a lumed triangle minute hand.

To set the countdown timer, turn the Ring Command bezel 90 degrees counterclockwise, press the 4 o’clock pusher, and use the crown to set the desired interval (the triangle hand will snap back to 0 if pushed past 10). After rotating the bezel back, the watch’s pushers operate similarly to a normal chronograph. But Rolex has added two unique functions. When the timer is set, the initial countdown time is memorized: if the countdown is 7 minutes and needs to be restarted, stopping and resetting the timer will return it to 7 minutes. Equally impressive, the watch can be resynchronized to the official race countdown if necessary: pressing the reset pusher without stopping the timer will jump the timing hand to the nearest minute.

Inner Workings

Powering the Rolex Yacht-Master II is the automatic Rolex 4161 caliber, based on the 4130 chronograph movement (seen in the Daytona). Comprising over 360 components, including 44 jewels, the movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and delivers a robust 72 hours of power (a number of the constituent parts are so small, they require specialized micromanufacturing mastered in-house by Rolex). The watch is further equipped with Rolex’s Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock system, together delivering exceptional antimagnetism and shock resistance. As with all modern Rolex movements, the 4161 is certified to their Superlative Chronometer standards, accurate to -2/+2 seconds per day.

Instead of the traditional chronograph functions of its base movement, the 4161 has been retooled to allow for use as a countdown timer. In conjunction with a vertical clutch, a column wheel extends through the main plate, allowing for the programmable countdown. Additional reworking has added instantaneous re-synchronization functionality and countdown memory; and as discussed above, the bezel is coupled to the movement to allow its use as a locking mechanism for the timer (though considering the bezel part of the movement might be a stretch). All of these decidedly niche features make for one of the most complicated Rolex calibers ever made.

Versus the Competition

Watches and regattas have been linked for quite some time, and indeed many brands sponsor teams, races, or entire series. Omega and TAG Heuer have both released limited edition America’s Cup watches featuring countdown mechanisms. Panerai makes the Luminor 1950 Regatta Chrono Flyback and Ulysse Nardin has its Marine Regatta model. Of course, sometimes only a Rolex will do, in which case one can opt for the timing function of the Daytona, the Ring Command bezel of the Sky-Dweller, or the nouveau riche appeal of the original Yacht-Master.

Personality

While the original Yacht-Master appealed to the owners of superyachts by providing a higher-end alternative to the Submariner, the Rolex Yacht-Master II 116689 builds on that appeal with the added bona fides of regatta timing functionalities. In the white gold execution, it’s perhaps best suited to the sailing enthusiast with who enjoys the occasional regatta and may even partake in one from time to time, but also likes a splash of luxury on the wrist and isn’t afraid to let others know.

Final Thoughts

Be it as it may an undeniable piece of luxury sailing kit, the Yacht-Master II does what only a few Rolexes do: provides both the exceptional quality the brand is known for and unique functionality. For that alone, the model is well worth a look.

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COMMENTS

Rolex Yacht-Master
The Rolex Yacht-Master is a luxury sports watch manufactured by Rolex and first introduced in 1992 as Reference 16628 in 18-karat yellow gold. In 1994, Rolex released a lady's model (69628) and a mid-size model (68628) at 35mm, marking the first time in Rolex history that a professional series watch was available in smaller than the standard ...
Rolex Yacht-Master and Yacht-Master II
The watch of the open seas. The Yacht-Master is easily recognizable for its bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel. This characteristic and functional bezel - which enables the wearer to read time intervals, for example, the sailing time between two buoys - plays a full part in creating the unique visual identity of the watch.
Yachtmaster
A Yachtmaster qualification is a certificate of competence of the ability to handle either a sailing boat or motor boat (as endorsed) in certain prescribed conditions. Three different titles are specified; Yachtmaster Coastal (previously - and in some countries still - called Coastal Skipper), Yachtmaster Offshore, and Yachtmaster Ocean which ...
Rolex Yacht-Master II
The Rolex Yacht-Master II is a sport watch made by Rolex, unveiled in 2007 and first introduced in March 2010 with the models 116688 (Yellow Gold) and 116689 (White Gold). One year later, in 2011, Rolex introduced the model 116681 which was made from steel and everose gold. [1] At Baselworld 2013, the watch was available for the first time in ...
The Complete History Of The Rolex Yacht-Master
Rolex originally introduced the 40mm Yacht-Master in 1992 it was a Reference 16628 in 18kt gold, with a white dial and 3135 movement, which was the same movement used in the Rolex Submariner. The Yacht-Master had a triple-lock crown, and it was water resistant to 100 meters (10 bars) which is 320 Feet. Essentially, the first Yacht-Master was ...
Rolex Yacht-Master
The Yacht-Master's bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel is made entirely from precious metal (gold or platinum) or fitted with a Cerachrom insert in high-technology ceramic. The raised polished numerals and graduations stand out clearly against a matt background. This functional bezel - which allows the wearer to calculate, for ...
The Rolex Yacht-Master Models
The Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master, the emblematic nautical watch, embodies the privileged ties between Rolex and the world of sailing that stretch back to the 1950s. Launched in 1992, the Yacht-Master was designed specifically for navigators and skippers. Embodying the rich heritage that has bound Rolex and the world of sailing since the 1950s ...
Yacht-Master II
The Yacht-Master II is equipped with calibre 4161, a self-winding mechanical chronograph movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Its architecture, manufacturing quality and innovative features make it exceptionally precise and reliable. This abundance of Rolex technology includes a patented function - a programmable countdown ...
The Watch Of The Open Seas: History Of The Rolex Yacht-Master
The first Yacht-Master watch was launched in 1992 under reference number 16628. It featured a yellow gold case, a bidirectional graduated bezel, and a matching full-gold Oyster bracelet. Its dial was white with black hour indices, while at center were gold Mercedes hands, and beating inside was the 3135 movement.
The Rolex Yacht-Master II Models
The Yacht-Master II is available on a three-piece link Oyster bracelet that is equipped with a Rolex-designed, patented Oysterlock safety clasp, which prevents accidental opening. The bracelet is additionally fitted with the Easylink comfort extension link, developed by the brand. This system allows the wearer to easily increase the bracelet ...
Rolex Yachtmaster History
The Yacht-Master is also equipped with caliber 3135, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex and certified as an official Swiss chronometer. Rarely does Rolex introduce a completely new model. In its long history, one of the last new models to be introduced was the Rolex Daytona, in 1964. 28 years later ...
A guide to the Rolex Yacht-Master
The Yacht-Master is available in sizes of 29mm, 35mm, 37mm, 40mm and 42mm and is manufactured in Rolesium, Everose Rolesor, yellow gold Rolesor, solid 18ct yellow gold, solid 18ct white gold and 18ct Everose gold. The watch offers running hours, minutes and seconds and features a date function at 3 o'clock. A bidirectional rotating bezel has ...
History and Evolution of the Rolex Yacht-Master
The two-tone midsize 35mm Yacht-Master ref. 68623 and two-tone ladies' 29mm Yacht-Master ref. 69623 were released in 1995 and later replaced by the upgraded 168623 and 169623 references, respectively, in the early 2000s. Two-Tone Rolex Yacht-Master. The Yacht-Master 16623, however, was the first two-tone version in the men's 40mm size.
Hands-On Rolex Yacht-Master II Review
Inside the Yacht-Master II is the Rolex Calibre 4161. The movement is formidable, and the functions make sense for the extremely specific times a captain would need to use it. Essentially, the "chronograph" functions as a 10 minute countdown sectioned off in "laps". When activated, the movement counts the ten lap starting sequence of a ...
Rolex Yacht-Master II
Countdown to the race. As for any voyage at sea, time management is vital in a regatta. At its launch in 2007, the Yacht-Master II features an unprecedented mechanical function: a programmable countdown with mechanical memory, synchronizable on the fly. A function that responds ideally to the need for precise timing during the crucial starting ...
The Rolex Yachtmaster: history, models, price
The name "Yacht Master" was filed for patent by Rolex in 1950 and, according to rumours and several non-confirmed historical sources, marked the brand's willingness to introduce a new collection atop the top-selling and sporty Submariner; yet, it's hard to describe the time lapse between patent and the first official commercial release ...
Rolex Yacht-Master
Therefore, in the years that followed, Rolex used the new design intended for the Submariner to make a brand new line of maritime watches for the luxury market, and so the Rolex Yacht-Master was born. The Rolex Yacht-Master made its debut in 1992, and was the first new design in 25 years (since the Sea-Dweller in 1967).
The Rolex Yacht-Master II: How does it work, and why is it so
In 2010, Rolex released one of the most controversial models in the brand's recent history: the Yacht-Master II.The original Yacht-Master from the 1990s is effectively a more luxurious version of the popular Submariner with a slightly toned-down tool watch feel. The Yacht-Master II, however, strikes an entirely different chord.
Owner review: Rolex Yacht Master 16622
One of the biggest drawbacks was the price, it was one of, if not the most expensive steel Rolex in the retail catalogue. The Rolex Yacht Master 16622 was updated in 2013 with the 116622. It included updates such as the more modern Rolex easy link clasp, an updated dial with thinner fonts and a smoother glossy look as opposed to the more ...
Yacht-Master
The Yacht-Master 40 and Yacht-Master 42 are equipped with calibre 3235, a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. This self-winding mechanical movement incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. Made of nickel-phosphorus, it is also resistant to strong magnetic ...
Almost Obscure: The Rolex Yacht-Master II 116689
At 44mm wide and 14mm thick, the Yacht-Master II features the largest production case Rolex offers. Despite its size, the watch is good to just 100m of water resistance—certainly sufficient for most aquatic adventures, but a subtle hint that Yacht-Master II is aimed at those who plan to remain aboard. The solid 18k white gold case and ...
Rolex Yacht-Master
Yacht-Master 40. Oyster, 40 mm, Oystersteel and Everose gold. Yacht-Master 42. Oyster, 42 mm, white gold. Yacht-Master 42. Oyster, 42 mm, yellow gold
Yachtmaster
A Yachtmaster qualification is a certificate of competence of the ability to handle either a sailing boat or motor boat in certain prescribed conditions. Three different titles are specified; Yachtmaster Coastal, Yachtmaster Offshore, and Yachtmaster Ocean which specify the level of competence required and the area of operation certified.

Saturday, October 10, 2020

The Complete History

INSIDE ROLEX

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The Watch Of The Open Seas: History Of The Rolex Yacht-Master

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What’s Next?

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Yacht-Master II

A PROFESSIONAL REGATTA CHRONOGRAPH

RING COMMAND SYSTEM

BEZEL WITH CERACHROM INSERT

CHROMALIGHT DISPLAY

THE YACHT-MASTER II, SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER CERTIFIED

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PERPETUAL CALIBRE 4161

BRACELET AND CLASP, SECURE AND COMFORTABLE

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