diy sailboat rigging

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How to Rig Everything in Your Favor

• By Jamie Gifford
• March 22, 2024

As sailboat races go, the first Wednesday-night race of the season was off to a cracking start. Our crew maneuvered ungracefully prestart, and we were sloppy tacking aboard the J/35, but our winter fog lifted as we beat toward the windward mark. 

Then the sailing therapy abruptly ended with a crash. 

As dismastings go, this one was uncomplicated. The windward cap shroud failed at the upper T fitting. What had been installed by a rigger the week before became a mess of wires, crumpled aluminum, and torn Kevlar. I was a sailmaker at the time, and my takeaway was clear: Never trust riggers.

Two decades later, I was aloft on our Stevens 47, Totem , to inspect newly fabricated and installed standing rigging. All was fine up to the second spreader, where I found several missing cotter pins. The memory of the dismasting came to mind. Our dream of sailing to the South Pacific with three young children suddenly felt riskier. We had hired the best rigger around, but the entire project was a fraught with mistakes and delays. A couple of bucks’ worth of missing parts could’ve toppled the mast, our dream and our safety.

Most sailors don’t think it’s necessary to inspect a rigger’s work, just as most drivers never inspect a car’s engine before driving away from a mechanic’s repair shop. But there is a difference. If a car repair is faulty, resources are nearby. Rigging problems at sea can be complicated, and there’s not usually an expert rigger around the corner. 

To prove reliability, you have to own it—really own responsibility for the condition of rigging, steering cables, through-hull fittings and more. This can feel daunting because it’s technical. 

For beginners, forget about rigging terminology and engineering. Also, don’t focus on finding cracked wire strands or fittings. That’s not to say ignore them if you find them, but cracked metal is a late discovery, well past safe limits. Instead, learn to spot clues that indicate early stages of a problem. 

For instance, look for rust on stainless steel and for corrosion on aluminum. Question why a line is getting harder and harder to pull. Sight up the mast while sailing to see if the mast profiles look smooth or lumpy, stable or dynamically bouncing. Look from side to side and from front to back. Note how slack the leeward shrouds are while sailing in different windspeeds. And get to the chainplate behind your bookshelf to look for water stains, especially rusty water stains that trail downward. 

These are all clues to potential problems. You don’t have to know the solution, but rigging failures happen mostly because nobody identified the clues.

Rigging Inspection Tips

Stainless steel should be shiny with a smooth, fluid look. Being rough, dull, splotchy or striated might indicate lower-quality metal, or it can mean that the metal has changed properties from age or use. Stainless steel is least effective at resisting rust when its surface is frequently abraded, such as a clevis pin securing the articulating parts of a boom gooseneck. This is also the case when the surface is deprived of the oxygen necessary to form a protective layer, such as bolts passing through a chainplate and bulkhead. 

Have a 10x loupe to amplify what you cannot see well enough with eyes alone. Look for general surface smoothness, pitting and cracks. Light-orange rust is probably superficial, and is easily cleaned with white vinegar and a rag. Darker red and brown rust can indicate failing or failed metal. 

Does the rust have a pronounced line or edge? This could be a crack, even if it’s not opened up yet. Photograph the area to note the date and condition. Then clean away the rust to assess surface problems. If rust reforms in the same areas within several weeks, the metal is not right and needs further attention.

Additional checks for rigging wire include looking for uneven gaps between the wire strands. Run your hand over the wire, feeling for any strands that are slightly raised. These can be broken strands, which might be hidden inside a swage fitting.

Understanding Alignment

Another thing to consider is alignment. It’s the relationship between the direction of a rigging load (force) and the orientation of the rigging component meant to carry that load.

Take a pencil, grasp each end, and try to pull the pencil apart. You probably can’t. Now secure half the pencil length to a table, with the other half extending past the edge. Push down on the overhanging end. It breaks easily. 

The pencil is surprisingly strong when load is parallel to the length of the pencil. The more misaligned the load is to the length, the easier it is to break the pencil. 

It’s the same concept with rigging. Chainplates should be shaped and oriented to transfer load down the length of the metal and into the bulkhead. If the chainplate has an angle out of alignment with the shroud, then the metal flexes to pull it straight if there is enough load. The more it flexes, the weaker and more brittle the chainplate gets. 

This was the cause of our J/35 dismasting. The T fitting at the top of the shroud was set incorrectly in the mast slot. The forced misalignment was too much for the metal, and it failed.

The most common misalignment I see on rigging is with toggles—the U-shaped linkage used at the bottom of every turnbuckle and numerous other parts of standing rigging. A toggle fitted over a chainplate is often wider than the chainplate. There is room enough that the toggle slides, so one side is against the chainplate. The other side, with a gap between it and the chainplate, is misaligned to the load. The rounded-end portion of the toggle (the bottom of the U) is stressed and flexed, ever so slightly. This cycle loading, coupled with the metal pieces scraping against each other and no oxygen, is a recipe for trouble. 

Where the surfaces come together is a good place to look for dark-red or brown rust on the toggle. This misalignment is easily corrected by adding a few bucks’ worth of nylon washers to keep the chainplate centered within the U of the toggle.

A Sad, Common Tale

We did sail Totem to the South Pacific in 2010. In one year sailing between Mexico and Australia, I counted 15 boats that had dismasted along the way, and a few near dismastings. One occurred on friends’ Tayana 52 after the headstay chainplate sheared off at deck level on passage to remote Suwarrow in the Cook Islands. 

Their chainplate was ­oriented fore and aft. After years of sailing with the wind force in the genoa pushing the headstay side to side, imperceptible flexing in the chainplate without ­structural support to counter the misaligned force weakened the metal to the point of breaking. 

Fortunately, in that case, the inner forestay and a downwind sailing angle (where forces pushing the mast forward create less load on the headstay) were enough to support the mast through the midnight fire drill to reduce sail and destress the rigging. But the lesson remains the same: Try to spot and fix these problems before they reach this point.

As I write this, Totem is nearly ready to sail west across the Pacific Ocean again. Our 30-month refit has left much of Totem new, except the mast, which is original at 42 years old. The standing rigging is only four years young, but I’ll be aloft with my 10x loupe regularly in hopes of keeping the trip uncomplicated, as ocean crossings go.

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DIY of standing rigging with compression fittings

• Thread starter Avi
• Start date Apr 30, 2023
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

What are the risks of replacing all standing riggings to a compression fittings or swageless , with sta lok or norseman by myself? I watch many people doing it on YouTube with no special difficulties. I am thinking of doing it myself is there anything in particular I need to pay attention? The money saving is what I need because I am doing a major refit on my S2 9.2C and the expenses are overwhelming. Is Norseman better then Sta lok? Any advice will be appropriated  

Attachments

garymalmgren

Avi said: What are the risks of replacing all standing riggings to a compression fittings or swageless , with sta lok or norseman by myself? I watch many people doing it on YouTube with no special difficulties. I am thinking of doing it myself is there anything in particular I need to pay attention? The money saving is what I need because I am doing a major refit on my S2 9.2C and the expenses are overwhelming. Is Norseman better then Sta lok? Any advice will be appropriated Click to expand

Just a word of caution .. be sure to use some kind of anti seize on the threads of the mechanical fitting. We tried to use one to fix a broken backstay and could not get the new fitting apart; heat, breaker bars, impact driver on a crowfoot.. nothing would budge it.  

Captain Larry-DH

@Avi re: photo 4. The easiest way to cut wire rope with a clean (unsplayed) edge is with a rotary tool cutoff wheel.  

• Strengthen rigging to improve function of open water cruising.
• Mitigate by design the potential for corrosion in rigging.
• Improve running rigging systems to optimize mast base management.
• Add running rigging options for spinnaker and stay sail.
• Rewire all electrical systems.

Thank you all for the reply, I always learn something and get educated from all the feed backs  

Scott T-Bird

I think to summarize the reasons why many sailors choose mechanical fittings are: 1) Mechanical fittings are more of an investment to reduce costs when rigging needs to be replaced in the future. They are considered to be re-usable when you need to purchase new wire. But they are not a more economical choice with the initial purchase. 2) Mechanical fittings are geared towards the DIY sailor who may not have access to swaged fittings in remote areas when the rigging may need replacement. 3) Many DIY sailors have more confidence in measuring and cutting the rigging on their own and doing the job independently. There are some who just do not trust others to do these jobs. If you don't fit in those categories, I'd suggest that mechanical fittings may not be your best choice.  

I'll also suggest that with a major refit, as you describe, the best strategy is to focus on the jobs that you know that you will have to do yourself to save money. Rigging is not one of those jobs. The time you save farming this job to a good rigger will be well worth it. This job will probably be done with less expense (especially if you value your own time properly) if it is done by a rigger with swage machinery. I have no doubt that you can readily find several competent riggers who will offer competitive pricing. The job will be done quickly, and well, without any stress on yourself. If this rigging is 20 years old or older (or you don't even know the age), my advise is to do this job for sure and don't put it off. Peace of mind doesn't come for free, but it is priceless once you have it. So, good for you having this task on the front burner.  

Good points, @Scott T-Bird . I was thinking of doing my own, having lengths of wire made with swaged fittings at the top, those Navtec-style "T" fittings, and Hi-Mod mechanical fittings at the bottom. In 2017 I costed it out from Rigging Only on Fairhaven, MA (only 10 minutes from where I now live!) at about $2,000. I would have to terminate all of the lower fittings. Now, Hi-Mod terminals have doubled in cost since then!!! I'm thinking I should just have them come to my boat, measure, and fabricate the rigging with swaged fittings at both ends. Update on costs: Navtec swaged "T" fittings up 30% from 2017 to now. Wow.  

Scott T-Bird said: I think to summarize the reasons why many sailors choose mechanical fittings are: 1) Mechanical fittings are more of an investment to reduce costs when rigging needs to be replaced in the future. They are considered to be re-usable when you need to purchase new wire. But they are not a more economical choice with the initial purchase. 2) Mechanical fittings are geared towards the DIY sailor who may not have access to swaged fittings in remote areas when the rigging may need replacement. 3) Many DIY sailors have more confidence in measuring and cutting the rigging on their own and doing the job independently. There are some who just do not trust others to do these jobs. If you don't fit in those categories, I'd suggest that mechanical fittings may not be your best choice. Click to expand

dLj said: The main reason in my mind is the higher reliability of these fasteners. These kinds of mechanical fasteners are rated for "overhead" application but swagged fittings are not. Click to expand

Scott T-Bird said: Not knowing any different, I'll go along with what you say about reliability ... except that I've never heard that the reliability of swaged fittings on sailboats is really a factor worth worrying about for the typical sailor. My premonition is that increased reliability is just a meaningless argument for the DIY sailor to add in the pro column for justification of their choice. Just by sampling some reading, one rigger whom offers both services seems to suggest that mechanical fittings can be harder on the wire than swaged fittings, but defects or damages are more easily spotted with mechanical fittings, so it (how well they perform) may be a wash, depending more upon how well each alternative is actually performed by the rigger. Click to expand

There's the fatigue aspect not captured in the above, but the poured fittings have always been considered the "gold standard" in wire rope fittings. When I worked in that area, it was the only fitting permitted. Of course, the sizes we worked with would never have been below at least 1/2" and more at the 1" and above. I'd be very interested to see if you can find fatigue ratings for the different fittings. Love the numbers for the swaged fittings. dj p.s. an overhead rating does not mean you get 100% strength of the wire rope, it's that the strength that you achieve is reliable and does not change over time and usage. Of course within reason...  

Be that as it may, swaged fittings are the dominant rigging system in the sailboat industry. You occasionally (rarely) hear of rigs failing due to rigging failure, but I venture to guess that a poor configuration [1] or an aged rig is to blame. [1] An example of a poor configuration would be where there is not a straight pull from a swaged fitting, i.e., a toggle is called for but not installed. The non-straight pull stresses the wire where it exits the fitting. My Catalina 36 had this issue with the shrouds, and I installed toggles.  

jviss said: Be that as it may, swaged fittings are the dominant rigging system in the sailboat industry. You occasionally (rarely) hear of rigs failing due to rigging failure, but I venture to guess that a poor configuration [1] or an aged rig is to blame. [1] An example of a poor configuration would be where there is not a straight pull from a swaged fitting, i.e., a toggle is called for but not installed. The non-straight pull stresses the wire where it exits the fitting. My Catalina 36 had this issue with the shrouds, and I installed toggles. Click to expand

Scott T-Bird said: Not that there isn't the odd sailor who does consider it Click to expand

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The Standing Rigging On A Sailboat Explained

The standing rigging on a sailboat is a system of stainless steel wires that holds the mast upright and supports the spars.

In this guide, I’ll explain the basics of a sailboat’s hardware and rigging, how it works, and why it is a fundamental and vital part of the vessel. We’ll look at the different parts of the rig, where they are located, and their function.

We will also peek at a couple of different types of rigs and their variations to determine their differences. In the end, I will explain some additional terms and answer some practical questions I often get asked.

But first off, it is essential to understand what standing rigging is and its purpose on a sailboat.

The purpose of the standing rigging

Like I said in the beginning, the standing rigging on a sailboat is a system of stainless steel wires that holds the mast upright and supports the spars. When sailing, the rig helps transfer wind forces from the sails to the boat’s structure. This is critical for maintaining the stability and performance of the vessel.

The rig can also consist of other materials, such as synthetic lines or steel rods, yet its purpose is the same. But more on that later.

Since the rig supports the mast, you’ll need to ensure that it is always in appropriate condition before taking your boat out to sea. Let me give you an example from a recent experience.

Dismasting horrors

I had a company inspect the entire rig on my sailboat while preparing for an Atlantic crossing. The rigger didn’t find any issues, but I decided to replace the rig anyway because of its unknown age. I wanted to do the job myself so I could learn how it is done correctly.

Not long after, we left Gibraltar and sailed through rough weather for eight days before arriving in Las Palmas. We were safe and sound and didn’t experience any issues. Unfortunately, several other boats arriving before us had suffered rig failures. They lost their masts and sails—a sorrowful sight but also a reminder of how vital the rigging is on a sailboat.

The most common types of rigging on a sailboat

The most commonly used rig type on modern sailing boats is the fore-and-aft Bermuda Sloop rig with one mast and just one headsail. Closely follows the Cutter rig and the Ketch rig. They all have a relatively simple rigging layout. Still, there are several variations and differences in how they are set up.

A sloop has a single mast, and the Ketch has one main mast and an additional shorter mizzen mast further aft. A Cutter rig is similar to the Bermuda Sloop with an additional cutter forestay, allowing it to fly two overlapping headsails.

You can learn more about the differences and the different types of sails they use in this guide. For now, we’ll focus on the Bermuda rig.

The difference between standing rigging and running rigging

Sometimes things can get confusing as some of our nautical terms are used for multiple items depending on the context. Let me clarify just briefly:

The  rig  or  rigging  on a sailboat is a common term for two parts:

• The  standing rigging  consists of wires supporting the mast on a sailboat and reinforcing the spars from the force of the sails when sailing.
• The  running rigging  consists of the halyards, sheets, and lines we use to hoist, lower, operate, and control the sails on a sailboat.

Check out my guide on running rigging here !

The difference between a fractional and a masthead rig

A Bermuda rig is split into two groups. The  Masthead  rig and the  Fractional  rig.

The  Masthead  rig has a forestay running from the bow to the top of the mast, and the spreaders point 90 degrees to the sides. A boat with a masthead rig typically carries a bigger overlapping headsail ( Genoa)  and a smaller mainsail. Very typical on the Sloop, Ketch, and Cutter rigs.

A  Fractional  rig has forestays running from the bow to 1/4 – 1/8 from the top of the mast, and the spreaders are swept backward. A boat with a fractional rig also has the mast farther forward than a masthead rig, a bigger mainsail, and a smaller headsail, usually a Jib. Very typical on more performance-oriented sailboats.

There are exceptions in regards to the type of headsail, though. Many performance cruisers use a Genoa instead of a Jib , making the difference smaller.

Some people also fit an inner forestay, or a babystay, to allow flying a smaller staysail.

Explaining the parts and hardware of the standing rigging

The rigging on a sailing vessel relies on stays and shrouds in addition to many hardware parts to secure the mast properly. And we also have nautical terms for each of them. Since a system relies on every aspect of it to be in equally good condition, we want to familiarize ourselves with each part and understand its function.

Forestay and Backstay

The  forestay  is a wire that runs from the bow to the top of the mast. Some boats, like the Cutter rig, can have several additional inner forestays in different configurations.

The  backstay  is the wire that runs from the back of the boat to the top of the mast. Backstays have a tensioner, often hydraulic, to increase the tension when sailing upwind. Some rigs, like the Cutter, have running backstays and sometimes checkstays or runners, to support the rig.

The primary purpose of the forestay and backstay is to prevent the mast from moving fore and aft. The tensioner on the backstay also allows us to trim and tune the rig to get a better shape of the sails.

The shrouds are the wires or lines used on modern sailboats and yachts to support the mast from sideways motion.

There are usually four shrouds on each side of the vessel. They are connected to the side of the mast and run down to turnbuckles attached through toggles to the chainplates bolted on the deck.

• Cap shrouds run from the top of the mast to the deck, passing through the tips of the upper spreaders.
• Intermediate shrouds  run from the lower part of the mast to the deck, passing through the lower set of spreaders.
• Lower shrouds  are connected to the mast under the first spreader and run down to the deck – one fore and one aft on each side of the boat.

This configuration is called continuous rigging. We won’t go into the discontinuous rigging used on bigger boats in this guide, but if you are interested, you can read more about it here .

Shroud materials

Shrouds are usually made of 1 x 19 stainless steel wire. These wires are strong and relatively easy to install but are prone to stretch and corrosion to a certain degree. Another option is using stainless steel rods.

Rod rigging

Rod rigging has a stretch coefficient lower than wire but is more expensive and can be intricate to install. Alternatively, synthetic rigging is becoming more popular as it weighs less than wire and rods.

Synthetic rigging

Fibers like Dyneema and other aramids are lightweight and provide ultra-high tensile strength. However, they are expensive and much more vulnerable to chafing and UV damage than other options. In my opinion, they are best suited for racing and regatta-oriented sailboats.

Wire rigging

I recommend sticking to the classic 316-graded stainless steel wire rigging for cruising sailboats. It is also the most reasonable of the options. If you find yourself in trouble far from home, you are more likely to find replacement wire than another complex rigging type.

Relevant terms on sailboat rigging and hardware

The spreaders are the fins or wings that space the shrouds away from the mast. Most sailboats have at least one set, but some also have two or three. Once a vessel has more than three pairs of spreaders, we are probably talking about a big sailing yacht.

A turnbuckle is the fitting that connects the shrouds to the toggle and chainplate on the deck. These are adjustable, allowing you to tension the rig.

A chainplate is a metal plate bolted to a strong point on the deck or side of the hull. It is usually reinforced with a backing plate underneath to withstand the tension from the shrouds.

The term mast head should be distinct from the term masthead rigging. Out of context, the mast head is the top of the mast.

A toggle is a hardware fitting to connect the turnbuckles on the shrouds and the chainplate.

How tight should the standing rigging be?

It is essential to periodically check the tension of the standing rigging and make adjustments to ensure it is appropriately set. If the rig is too loose, it allows the mast to sway excessively, making the boat perform poorly.

You also risk applying a snatch load during a tack or a gybe which can damage the rig. On the other hand, if the standing rigging is too tight, it can strain the rig and the hull and lead to structural failure.

The standing rigging should be tightened enough to prevent the mast from bending sideways under any point of sail. If you can move the mast by pulling the cap shrouds by hand, the rigging is too loose and should be tensioned. Once the cap shrouds are tightened, follow up with the intermediates and finish with the lower shrouds. It is critical to tension the rig evenly on both sides.

The next you want to do is to take the boat out for a trip. Ensure that the mast isn’t bending over to the leeward side when you are sailing. A little movement in the leeward shrouds is normal, but they shouldn’t swing around. If the mast bends to the leeward side under load, the windward shrouds need to be tightened. Check the shrouds while sailing on both starboard and port tack.

Once the mast is in a column at any point of sail, your rigging should be tight and ready for action.

If you feel uncomfortable adjusting your rig, get a professional rigger to inspect and reset it.

How often should the standing rigging be replaced on a sailboat?

I asked the rigger who produced my new rig for Ellidah about how long I could expect my new rig to last, and he replied with the following:

The standing rigging should be replaced after 10 – 15 years, depending on how hard and often the boat has sailed. If it is well maintained and the vessel has sailed conservatively, it will probably last more than 20 years. However, corrosion or cracked strands indicate that the rig or parts are due for replacement regardless of age.

If you plan on doing extended offshore sailing and don’t know the age of your rig, I recommend replacing it even if it looks fine. This can be done without removing the mast from the boat while it is still in the water.

How much does it cost to replace the standing rigging?

The cost of replacing the standing rigging will vary greatly depending on the size of your boat and the location you get the job done. For my 41 feet sloop, I did most of the installation myself and paid approximately $4700 for the entire rig replacement.

Can Dyneema be used for standing rigging?

Dyneema is a durable synthetic fiber that can be used for standing rigging. Its low weight, and high tensile strength makes it especially popular amongst racers. Many cruisers also carry Dyneema onboard as spare parts for failing rigging.

How long does dyneema standing rigging last?

Dyneema rigging can outlast wire rigging if it doesn’t chafe on anything sharp. There are reports of Dyneema rigging lasting as long as 15 years, but manufacturers like Colligo claim their PVC shrink-wrapped lines should last 8 to 10 years. You can read more here .

Final words

Congratulations! By now, you should have a much better understanding of standing rigging on a sailboat. We’ve covered its purpose and its importance for performance and safety. While many types of rigs and variations exist, the hardware and concepts are often similar. Now it’s time to put your newfound knowledge into practice and set sail!

Or, if you’re not ready just yet, I recommend heading over to my following guide to learn more about running rigging on a sailboat.

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Skipper, Electrician and ROV Pilot

Robin is the founder and owner of Sailing Ellidah and has been living on his sailboat since 2019. He is currently on a journey to sail around the world and is passionate about writing his story and helpful content to inspire others who share his interest in sailing.

Very well written. Common sense layout with just enough photos and sketches. I enjoyed reading this article.

Thank you for the kind words.

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Beginner’s Guide: How To Rig A Sailboat – Step By Step Tutorial

Alex Morgan

Rigging a sailboat is a crucial process that ensures the proper setup and functioning of a sailboat’s various components. Understanding the process and components involved in rigging is essential for any sailor or boat enthusiast. In this article, we will provide a comprehensive guide on how to rig a sailboat.

Introduction to Rigging a Sailboat

Rigging a sailboat refers to the process of setting up the components that enable the sailboat to navigate through the water using wind power. This includes assembling and positioning various parts such as the mast, boom, standing rigging, running rigging, and sails.

Understanding the Components of a Sailboat Rigging

Before diving into the rigging process, it is important to have a good understanding of the key components involved. These components include:

The mast is the tall vertical spar that provides vertical support to the sails and holds them in place.

The boom is the horizontal spar that runs along the bottom edge of the sail and helps control the shape and position of the sail.

• Standing Rigging:

Standing rigging consists of the wires and cables that support and stabilize the mast, keeping it upright.

• Running Rigging:

Running rigging refers to the lines and ropes used to control the sails, such as halyards, sheets, and control lines.

Preparing to Rig a Sailboat

Before rigging a sailboat, there are a few important steps to take. These include:

• Checking the Weather Conditions:

It is crucial to assess the weather conditions before rigging a sailboat. Unfavorable weather, such as high winds or storms, can make rigging unsafe.

• Gathering the Necessary Tools and Equipment:

Make sure to have all the necessary tools and equipment readily available before starting the rigging process. This may include wrenches, hammers, tape, and other common tools.

• Inspecting the Rigging Components:

In the upcoming sections of this article, we will provide a step-by-step guide on how to rig a sailboat, as well as important safety considerations and tips to keep in mind. By following these guidelines, you will be able to rig your sailboat correctly and safely, allowing for a smooth and enjoyable sailing experience.

Key takeaway:

• Rigging a sailboat maximizes efficiency: Proper rigging allows for optimized sailing performance, ensuring the boat moves smoothly through the water.
• Understanding sailboat rigging components: Familiarity with the various parts of a sailboat rigging, such as the mast, boom, and standing and running riggings, is essential for effective rigging setup.
• Importance of safety in sailboat rigging: Ensuring safety is crucial during the rigging process, including wearing a personal flotation device, securing loose ends and lines, and being mindful of overhead power lines.

Get ready to set sail and dive into the fascinating world of sailboat rigging! We’ll embark on a journey to understand the various components that make up a sailboat’s rigging. From the majestic mast to the nimble boom , and the intricate standing rigging to the dynamic running rigging , we’ll explore the crucial elements that ensure smooth sailing. Not forgetting the magnificent sail, which catches the wind and propels us forward. So grab your sea legs and let’s uncover the secrets of sailboat rigging together.

Understanding the mast is crucial when rigging a sailboat. Here are the key components and steps to consider:

1. The mast supports the sails and rigging of the sailboat. It is made of aluminum or carbon fiber .

2. Before stepping the mast , ensure that the area is clear and the boat is stable. Have all necessary tools and equipment ready.

3. Inspect the mast for damage or wear. Check for corrosion , loose fittings , and cracks . Address any issues before proceeding.

4. To step the mast , carefully lift it into an upright position and insert the base into the mast step on the deck of the sailboat.

5. Secure the mast using the appropriate rigging and fasteners . Attach the standing rigging , such as shrouds and stays , to the mast and the boat’s hull .

Fact: The mast of a sailboat is designed to withstand wind resistance and the tension of the rigging for stability and safe sailing.

The boom is an essential part of sailboat rigging. It is a horizontal spar that stretches from the mast to the aft of the boat. Constructed with durable yet lightweight materials like aluminum or carbon fiber, the boom provides crucial support and has control over the shape and position of the sail. It is connected to the mast through a boom gooseneck , allowing it to pivot. One end of the boom is attached to the mainsail, while the other end is equipped with a boom vang or kicker, which manages the tension and angle of the boom. When the sail is raised, the boom is also lifted and positioned horizontally by using the topping lift or lazy jacks.

An incident serves as a warning that emphasizes the significance of properly securing the boom. In strong winds, an improperly fastened boom swung across the deck, resulting in damage to the boat and creating a safety hazard. This incident highlights the importance of correctly installing and securely fastening all rigging components, including the boom, to prevent accidents and damage.

3. Standing Rigging

When rigging a sailboat, the standing rigging plays a vital role in providing stability and support to the mast . It consists of several key components, including the mast itself, along with the shrouds , forestay , backstay , and intermediate shrouds .

The mast, a vertical pole , acts as the primary support structure for the sails and the standing rigging. Connected to the top of the mast are the shrouds , which are cables or wires that extend to the sides of the boat, providing essential lateral support .

The forestay is another vital piece of the standing rigging. It is a cable or wire that runs from the top of the mast to the bow of the boat, ensuring forward support . Similarly, the backstay , also a cable or wire, runs from the mast’s top to the stern of the boat, providing important backward support .

To further enhance the rig’s stability , intermediate shrouds are installed. These additional cables or wires are positioned between the main shrouds, as well as the forestay or backstay. They offer extra support , strengthening the standing rigging system.

Regular inspections of the standing rigging are essential to detect any signs of wear, such as fraying or corrosion . It is crucial to ensure that all connections within the rig are tight and secure, to uphold its integrity. Should any issues be identified, immediate attention must be given to prevent accidents or damage to the boat. Prioritizing safety is of utmost importance when rigging a sailboat, thereby necessitating proper maintenance of the standing rigging. This ensures a safe and enjoyable sailing experience.

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4. Running Rigging

Running Rigging

When rigging a sailboat, the running rigging is essential for controlling the sails and adjusting their position. It is important to consider several aspects when dealing with the running rigging.

1. Choose the right rope: The running rigging typically consists of ropes with varying properties such as strength, stretch, and durability. Weather conditions and sailboat size should be considered when selecting the appropriate rope.

2. Inspect and maintain the running rigging: Regularly check for signs of wear, fraying, or damage. To ensure safety and efficiency, replace worn-out ropes.

3. Learn essential knot tying techniques: Having knowledge of knots like the bowline, cleat hitch, and reef knot is crucial for securing the running rigging and adjusting sails.

4. Understand different controls: The running rigging includes controls such as halyards, sheets, and control lines. Familiarize yourself with their functions and proper usage to effectively control sail position and tension.

5. Practice proper sail trimming: Adjusting the tension of the running rigging significantly affects sailboat performance. Mastering sail trimming techniques will help optimize sail shape and maximize speed.

By considering these factors and mastering running rigging techniques, you can enhance your sailing experience and ensure the safe operation of your sailboat.

The sail is the central component of sailboat rigging as it effectively harnesses the power of the wind to propel the boat.

When considering the sail, there are several key aspects to keep in mind:

– Material: Sails are typically constructed from durable and lightweight materials such as Dacron or polyester. These materials provide strength and resistance to various weather conditions.

– Shape: The shape of the sail plays a critical role in its overall performance. A well-shaped sail should have a smooth and aerodynamic profile, which allows for maximum efficiency in capturing wind power.

– Size: The size of the sail is determined by its sail area, which is measured in square feet or square meters. Larger sails have the ability to generate more power, but they require greater skill and experience to handle effectively.

– Reefing: Reefing is the process of reducing the sail’s size to adapt to strong winds. Sails equipped with reefing points allow sailors to decrease the sail area, providing better control in challenging weather conditions.

– Types: There are various types of sails, each specifically designed for different purposes. Common sail types include mainsails, jibs, genoas, spinnakers, and storm sails. Each type possesses its own unique characteristics and is utilized under specific wind conditions.

Understanding the sail and its characteristics is vital for sailors, as it directly influences the boat’s speed, maneuverability, and overall safety on the water.

Getting ready to rig a sailboat requires careful preparation and attention to detail. In this section, we’ll dive into the essential steps you need to take before setting sail. From checking the weather conditions to gathering the necessary tools and equipment, and inspecting the rigging components, we’ll ensure that you’re fully equipped to navigate the open waters with confidence. So, let’s get started on our journey to successfully rigging a sailboat!

1. Checking the Weather Conditions

Checking the weather conditions is crucial before rigging a sailboat for a safe and enjoyable sailing experience. Monitoring the wind speed is important in order to assess the ideal sailing conditions . By checking the wind speed forecast , you can determine if the wind is strong or light . Strong winds can make sailboat control difficult, while very light winds can result in slow progress.

Another important factor to consider is the wind direction . Assessing the wind direction is crucial for route planning and sail adjustment. Favorable wind direction helps propel the sailboat efficiently, making your sailing experience more enjoyable.

In addition to wind speed and direction, it is also important to consider weather patterns . Keep an eye out for impending storms or heavy rain. It is best to avoid sailing in severe weather conditions that may pose a safety risk. Safety should always be a top priority when venturing out on a sailboat.

Another aspect to consider is visibility . Ensure good visibility by checking for fog, haze, or any other conditions that may hinder navigation. Clear visibility is important for being aware of other boats and potential obstacles that may come your way.

Be aware of the local conditions . Take into account factors such as sea breezes, coastal influences, or tidal currents. These local factors greatly affect sailboat performance and safety. By considering all of these elements, you can have a successful and enjoyable sailing experience.

Here’s a true story to emphasize the importance of checking the weather conditions. One sunny afternoon, a group of friends decided to go sailing. Before heading out, they took the time to check the weather conditions. They noticed that the wind speed was expected to be around 10 knots, which was perfect for their sailboat. The wind direction was coming from the northwest, allowing for a pleasant upwind journey. With clear visibility and no approaching storms, they set out confidently, enjoying a smooth and exhilarating sail. This positive experience was made possible by their careful attention to checking the weather conditions beforehand.

2. Gathering the Necessary Tools and Equipment

To efficiently gather all of the necessary tools and equipment for rigging a sailboat, follow these simple steps:

• First and foremost, carefully inspect your toolbox to ensure that you have all of the basic tools such as wrenches, screwdrivers, and pliers.
• Make sure to check if you have a tape measure or ruler available as they are essential for precise measurements of ropes or cables.
• Don’t forget to include a sharp knife or rope cutter in your arsenal as they will come in handy for cutting ropes or cables to the desired lengths.
• Gather all the required rigging hardware including shackles, pulleys, cleats, and turnbuckles.
• It is always prudent to check for spare ropes or cables in case replacements are needed during the rigging process.
• If needed, consider having a sailing knife or marlinspike tool for splicing ropes or cables.
• For rigging a larger sailboat, it is crucial to have a mast crane or hoist to assist with stepping the mast.
• Ensure that you have a ladder or some other means of reaching higher parts of the sailboat, such as the top of the mast.

Once, during the preparation of rigging my sailboat, I had a moment of realization when I discovered that I had forgotten to bring a screwdriver . This unfortunate predicament occurred while I was in a remote location with no nearby stores. Being resourceful, I improvised by utilizing a multipurpose tool with a small knife blade, which served as a makeshift screwdriver. Although it was not the ideal solution, it allowed me to accomplish the task. Since that incident, I have learned the importance of double-checking my toolbox before commencing any rigging endeavor. This practice ensures that I have all of the necessary tools and equipment, preventing any unexpected surprises along the way.

3. Inspecting the Rigging Components

Inspecting the rigging components is essential for rigging a sailboat safely. Here is a step-by-step guide on inspecting the rigging components:

1. Visually inspect the mast, boom, and standing rigging for damage, such as corrosion, cracks, or loose fittings.

2. Check the tension of the standing rigging using a tension gauge. It should be within the recommended range from the manufacturer.

3. Examine the turnbuckles, clevis pins, and shackles for wear or deformation. Replace any damaged or worn-out hardware.

4. Inspect the running rigging, including halyards and sheets, for fraying, signs of wear, or weak spots. Replace any worn-out lines.

5. Check the sail for tears, wear, or missing hardware such as grommets or luff tape.

6. Pay attention to the connections between the standing rigging and the mast. Ensure secure connections without any loose or missing cotter pins or rigging screws.

7. Inspect all fittings, such as mast steps, spreader brackets, and tangs, to ensure they are securely fastened and in good condition.

8. Conduct a sea trial to assess the rigging’s performance and make necessary adjustments.

Regularly inspecting the rigging components is crucial for maintaining the sailboat’s rigging system’s integrity, ensuring safe sailing conditions, and preventing accidents or failures at sea.

Once, I went sailing on a friend’s boat without inspecting the rigging components beforehand. While at sea, a sudden gust of wind caused one of the shrouds to snap. Fortunately, no one was hurt, but we had to cut the sail loose and carefully return to the marina. This incident taught me the importance of inspecting the rigging components before sailing to avoid unforeseen dangers.

Step-by-Step Guide on How to Rig a Sailboat

Get ready to set sail with our step-by-step guide on rigging a sailboat ! We’ll take you through the process from start to finish, covering everything from stepping the mast to setting up the running rigging . Learn the essential techniques and tips for each sub-section, including attaching the standing rigging and installing the boom and sails . Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a beginner, this guide will have you ready to navigate the open waters with confidence .

1. Stepping the Mast

To step the mast of a sailboat, follow these steps:

1. Prepare the mast: Position the mast near the base of the boat.

2. Attach the base plate: Securely fasten the base plate to the designated area on the boat.

3. Insert the mast step: Lower the mast step into the base plate and align it with the holes or slots.

4. Secure the mast step: Use fastening screws or bolts to fix the mast step in place.

5. Raise the mast: Lift the mast upright with the help of one or more crew members.

6. Align the mast: Adjust the mast so that it is straight and aligned with the boat’s centerline.

7. Attach the shrouds: Connect the shrouds to the upper section of the mast, ensuring proper tension.

8. Secure the forestay: Attach the forestay to the bow of the boat, ensuring it is securely fastened.

9. Final adjustments: Check the tension of the shrouds and forestay, making any necessary rigging adjustments.

Following these steps ensures that the mast is properly stepped and securely in place, allowing for a safe and efficient rigging process. Always prioritize safety precautions and follow manufacturer guidelines for your specific sailboat model.

2. Attaching the Standing Rigging

To attach the standing rigging on a sailboat, commence by preparing the essential tools and equipment, including wire cutters, crimping tools, and turnbuckles.

Next, carefully inspect the standing rigging components for any indications of wear or damage.

After inspection, fasten the bottom ends of the shrouds and stays to the chainplates on the deck.

Then, securely affix the top ends of the shrouds and stays to the mast using adjustable turnbuckles .

To ensure proper tension, adjust the turnbuckles accordingly until the mast is upright and centered.

Utilize a tension gauge to measure the tension in the standing rigging, aiming for around 15-20% of the breaking strength of the rigging wire.

Double-check all connections and fittings to verify their security and proper tightness.

It is crucial to regularly inspect the standing rigging for any signs of wear or fatigue and make any necessary adjustments or replacements.

By diligently following these steps, you can effectively attach the standing rigging on your sailboat, ensuring its stability and safety while on the water.

3. Installing the Boom and Sails

To successfully complete the installation of the boom and sails on a sailboat, follow these steps:

1. Begin by securely attaching the boom to the mast. Slide it into the gooseneck fitting and ensure it is firmly fastened using a boom vang or another appropriate mechanism.

2. Next, attach the main sail to the boom. Slide the luff of the sail into the mast track and securely fix it in place using sail slides or cars.

3. Connect the mainsheet to the boom. One end should be attached to the boom while the other end is connected to a block or cleat on the boat.

4. Proceed to attach the jib or genoa. Make sure to securely attach the hanks or furler line to the forestay to ensure stability.

5. Connect the jib sheets. One end of each jib sheet should be attached to the clew of the jib or genoa, while the other end is connected to a block or winch on the boat.

6. Before setting sail, it is essential to thoroughly inspect all lines and connections. Ensure that they are properly tensioned and that all connections are securely fastened.

During my own experience of installing the boom and sails on my sailboat, I unexpectedly encountered a strong gust of wind. As a result, the boom began swinging uncontrollably, requiring me to quickly secure it to prevent any damage. This particular incident served as a vital reminder of the significance of properly attaching and securing the boom, as well as the importance of being prepared for unforeseen weather conditions while rigging a sailboat.

4. Setting Up the Running Rigging

Setting up the running rigging on a sailboat involves several important steps. First, attach the halyard securely to the head of the sail. Then, connect the sheets to the clew of the sail. If necessary, make sure to secure the reefing lines . Attach the outhaul line to the clew of the sail and connect the downhaul line to the tack of the sail. It is crucial to ensure that all lines are properly cleated and organized. Take a moment to double-check the tension and alignment of each line. If you are using a roller furling system, carefully wrap the line around the furling drum and securely fasten it. Perform a thorough visual inspection of the running rigging to check for any signs of wear or damage. Properly setting up the running rigging is essential for safe and efficient sailing. It allows for precise control of the sail’s position and shape, ultimately optimizing the boat’s performance on the water.

Safety Considerations and Tips

When it comes to rigging a sailboat, safety should always be our top priority. In this section, we’ll explore essential safety considerations and share some valuable tips to ensure smooth sailing. From the importance of wearing a personal flotation device to securing loose ends and lines, and being cautious around overhead power lines, we’ll equip you with the knowledge and awareness needed for a safe and enjoyable sailing experience. So, let’s set sail and dive into the world of safety on the water!

1. Always Wear a Personal Flotation Device

When rigging a sailboat, it is crucial to prioritize safety and always wear a personal flotation device ( PFD ). Follow these steps to properly use a PFD:

• Select the appropriate Coast Guard-approved PFD that fits your size and weight.
• Put on the PFD correctly by placing your arms through the armholes and securing all the straps for a snug fit .
• Adjust the PFD for comfort , ensuring it is neither too tight nor too loose, allowing freedom of movement and adequate buoyancy .
• Regularly inspect the PFD for any signs of wear or damage, such as tears or broken straps, and replace any damaged PFDs immediately .
• Always wear your PFD when on or near the water, even if you are a strong swimmer .

By always wearing a personal flotation device and following these steps, you will ensure your safety and reduce the risk of accidents while rigging a sailboat. Remember, prioritize safety when enjoying water activities.

2. Secure Loose Ends and Lines

Inspect lines and ropes for frayed or damaged areas. Secure loose ends and lines with knots or appropriate cleats or clamps. Ensure all lines are properly tensioned to prevent loosening during sailing. Double-check all connections and attachments for security. Use additional safety measures like extra knots or stopper knots to prevent line slippage.

To ensure a safe sailing experience , it is crucial to secure loose ends and lines properly . Neglecting this important step can lead to accidents or damage to the sailboat. By inspecting, securing, and tensioning lines , you can have peace of mind knowing that everything is in place. Replace or repair any compromised lines or ropes promptly. Securing loose ends and lines allows for worry-free sailing trips .

3. Be Mindful of Overhead Power Lines

When rigging a sailboat, it is crucial to be mindful of overhead power lines for safety. It is important to survey the area for power lines before rigging the sailboat. Maintain a safe distance of at least 10 feet from power lines. It is crucial to avoid hoisting tall masts or long antenna systems near power lines to prevent contact. Lower the mast and tall structures when passing under a power line to minimize the risk of contact. It is also essential to be cautious in areas where power lines run over the water and steer clear to prevent accidents.

A true story emphasizes the importance of being mindful of overhead power lines. In this case, a group of sailors disregarded safety precautions and their sailboat’s mast made contact with a low-hanging power line, resulting in a dangerous electrical shock. Fortunately, no serious injuries occurred, but it serves as a stark reminder of the need to be aware of power lines while rigging a sailboat.

Some Facts About How To Rig A Sailboat:

• ✅ Small sailboat rigging projects can improve sailing performance and save money. (Source: stingysailor.com)
• ✅ Rigging guides are available for small sailboats, providing instructions and tips for rigging. (Source: westcoastsailing.net)
• ✅ Running rigging includes lines used to control and trim the sails, such as halyards and sheets. (Source: sailingellidah.com)
• ✅ Hardware used in sailboat rigging includes winches, blocks, and furling systems. (Source: sailingellidah.com)
• ✅ A step-by-step guide can help beginners rig a small sailboat for sailing. (Source: tripsavvy.com)

Frequently Asked Questions

1. how do i rig a small sailboat.

To rig a small sailboat, follow these steps: – Install or check the rudder, ensuring it is firmly attached. – Attach or check the tiller, the long steering arm mounted to the rudder. – Attach the jib halyard by connecting the halyard shackle to the head of the sail and the grommet in the tack to the bottom of the forestay. – Hank on the jib by attaching the hanks of the sail to the forestay one at a time. – Run the jib sheets by tying or shackling them to the clew of the sail and running them back to the cockpit. – Attach the mainsail by spreading it out and attaching the halyard shackle to the head of the sail. – Secure the tack, clew, and foot of the mainsail to the boom using various lines and mechanisms. – Insert the mainsail slugs into the mast groove, gradually raising the mainsail as the slugs are inserted. – Cleat the main halyard and lower the centerboard into the water. – Raise the jib by pulling down on the jib halyard and cleating it on the other side of the mast. – Tighten the mainsheet and one jibsheet to adjust the sails and start moving forward.

2. What are the different types of sailboat rigs?

Sailboat rigs can be classified into three main types: – Sloop rig: This rig has a single mast with a mainsail and a headsail, typically a jib or genoa. – Cutter rig: This rig has two headsails, a smaller jib or staysail closer to the mast, and a larger headsail, usually a genoa, forward of it, alongside a mainsail. – Ketch rig: This rig has two masts, with the main mast taller than the mizzen mast. It usually has a mainsail, headsail, and a mizzen sail. Each rig has distinct characteristics and is suitable for different sailing conditions and preferences.

3. What are the essential parts of a sailboat?

The essential parts of a sailboat include: – Mast: The tall vertical spar that supports the sails. – Boom: The horizontal spar connected to the mast, which extends outward and supports the foot of the mainsail. – Rudder: The underwater appendage that steers the boat. – Centerboard or keel: A retractable or fixed fin-like structure that provides stability and prevents sideways drift. – Sails: The fabric structures that capture the wind’s energy to propel the boat. – Running rigging: The lines or ropes used to control the sails and sailing equipment. – Standing rigging: The wires and cables that support the mast and reinforce the spars. These are the basic components necessary for the functioning of a sailboat.

4. What is a spinnaker halyard?

A spinnaker halyard is a line used to hoist and control a spinnaker sail. The spinnaker is a large, lightweight sail that is used for downwind sailing or reaching in moderate to strong winds. The halyard attaches to the head of the spinnaker and is used to raise it to the top of the mast. Once hoisted, the spinnaker halyard can be adjusted to control the tension and shape of the sail.

5. Why is it important to maintain and replace worn running rigging?

It is important to maintain and replace worn running rigging for several reasons: – Safety: Worn or damaged rigging can compromise the integrity and stability of the boat, posing a safety risk to both crew and vessel. – Performance: Worn rigging can affect the efficiency and performance of the sails, diminishing the boat’s speed and maneuverability. – Reliability: Aging or worn rigging is more prone to failure, which can lead to unexpected problems and breakdowns. Regular inspection and replacement of worn running rigging is essential to ensure the safe and efficient operation of a sailboat.

6. Where can I find sailboat rigging books or guides?

There are several sources where you can find sailboat rigging books or guides: – Online: Websites such as West Coast Sailing and Stingy Sailor offer downloadable rigging guides for different sailboat models. – Bookstores: Many bookstores carry a wide selection of boating and sailing books, including those specifically focused on sailboat rigging. – Sailing schools and clubs: Local sailing schools or yacht clubs often have resources available for learning about sailboat rigging. – Manufacturers: Some sailboat manufacturers, like Hobie Cat and RS Sailing, provide rigging guides for their specific sailboat models. Consulting these resources can provide valuable information and instructions for rigging your sailboat properly.

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Expert advice: sails and rigging

• Katy Stickland
• December 22, 2021

Keeping sails and rigging in tip-top shape are of key importance to sailors. Read our tips and tricks from experts to improve their longevity

Sails and rigging are the engine room of any sailing boat from small dinghies up to giant superyachts. No matter how big or how new your boat, the sails and rigging need to be checked regularly and will need intermittent updating.

Updating of rigging on a yacht in particular will often be a requirement for insurance purposes so any owner will want to be mindful of that and make sure they upgrade often enough for those purposes – usually 10-15 years, but check your policy.

But you don’t need to focus on buying new to make improvements to your boat. Sure brand new sails will give you a performance boost, but there is plenty to be done with your old sails and rigging to improve performance and their longevity.

Tidy up your rigging – Dr Nick Bamford

Keeping lines shorter will help keep a clear cockpit. Credit: Dr Nick Bamford

When changing your standing rigging, look at your running rigging too.

The hi-tech, non-stretch polyester with which we just replaced our old wire and rope halyards has massively reduced the friction and now makes hoisting the mainsail a joy.

And this prompted another review. The advantages of all halyards and reefing lines led back to the cockpit, in terms of ease of operation as well as safety, are well known.

But the price you pay is that mountain of spaghetti cluttering up the cockpit!

I realised that a lot of mine was simply not needed. The lines were the length they were because they always had been! It was time for a rethink.

I treated myself to a £20 butane rope knife and set to work, and the result is a joyfully tidy cockpit.

I do have one other rigging tip, which I discovered when I lost a reefing line in the boom.

While specialist mousing devices are not cheap, curtain wire is! And it works a treat

Carabiner at your boom – Harry Dekkers

Carabiners will make it easier to reef. Credit: Harry Dekkers

How often did you try to hook the reefing eye of the mainsail at the forward end of the boom only to find that it has fallen out before you are able to hoist the halyard?

I have overcome this issue by welding carabiners on the existing ramshorn hooks on both sides of the gooseneck.

Secure every inch of your sails – Jonty Pearce

Sails and rigging advice: Ensure genoas are well secured on their roller reefing forestay before leaving the boat. Credit: Theo Stocker

When wandering around marinas, moorings, and boatyards, I am always dismayed by the number of yachts left with a triangle of genoa unfurled on their roller reefing forestay.

Not only does this engender potential weakness as a result of exposure to damaging solar ultraviolet, but that small handkerchief of unrolled sail can be worried by strong winds until it risks a catastrophic unfurling with consequential ripping and destruction of the flogging material.

It seems that every winter I spot a tattered rag of an unfurled sail that could have been properly protected by secure tight rolling.

My habit is to roll my genoa away with at least two turns of overlying sheet to trap the sail; the sheets are then tightened and securely tailed on the winches. This protects against unwanted unfurling and also provides an extra handhold.

When leaving the boat for any time, those more obsessional than I might back the sheets up with a safety lashing around the sail/sheet combination, as well as tying a preventer onto the roller reefing drum so that any damage to its furling line does not result in the sail unwrapping.

Homemade mast steps – Tony Curphey

Tony’s homemade mast steps are still going strong after two circumnavigations of the world. Credit: Tony Curphey

Mast steps are invaluable when you are cruising. They don’t have to be expensive. Mine cost me about £100, which was the price of a flat aluminium bar and Monel pop rivets. It’s necessary to have a good large pop riveter like the trellis one I have.

I used my small, onboard vice to bend them into shape. Make sure each step is wide enough for your foot with hard shoes on.

Start from the deck and put as few on as possible, spacing them apart as far as you can step up. You can use your bosun’s chair to drill and rivet, using 4x 6.4mm rivets per step.

Finish off with two together at the top so that you can stand on them and work at the very top of the mast.

I finished mine off with gold spray paint to match Nicola Deux ’s 1970s mast.

The mast steps have been there for five years and two circumnavigations, and are as firm and strong as when first fitted.

The mast has 14 steps, but I have long legs.

DIY quick-release soft shackles – Duncan Wells

Soft shackles are just the business these days; easy on the hands, no chafe to worry about and no pin to drop in the drink.

Soft shackles made from Dyneema are lighter and stronger than stainless steel, they are also kinder to your boat and your hands.

But a soft shackle, such as the one above does still present and issue in that getting them undone does require you to pull the inner core to open the loop end and allow the diamond knot through. This is why a quick-release system is a good idea.

Tie off the ends once you have passed your quick release lanyard through the shackle. Credit: Duncan Wells

Pull the inner core of the shackle out so it makes a loop sufficient to get the diamond knot through comfortably.

Then make your hole. Use a fid (a pen or screwdriver will do) to separate the 12-strand rope, pass the lanyard through and tie in a knot. Now set the shackle and smooth the outer core from the diamond knot end to the loop end and nip it up tight.

To release, pull on the lanyard.

Preventing chafe on sails and rigging – Julian and Patricia Morgan

Sewing on anti-chafe covers to lines ahead of a passage. Credit: Patricia and Julian Morgan

Chafe and rubbing damage is an ongoing enemy and it is surprising how quickly small rubs can lead to considerable damage to sheets, sails, halyards, lines and equipment.

On long-distance passages we do a detailed boat inspection, using a checklist, at least twice a day, including looking for signs of chafe.

We have installed tough anti-chafe covers on halyards and reefing lines where damage is likely, for example where ropes pass around sheaves or blocks.

We carry a bag full of short lengths of plastic pipe, which we use to pass over mooring and other lines when wear is likely to be an issue.

We also have plenty of readymade Dyneema soft shackles and loops, and have replaced many of our shackles with Dyneema equivalents, again reducing wear and damage.

Sails are very susceptible to chafe on long passages.

We have to be careful that our mainsail does not rub on our spreaders and shrouds when sailing downwind and have had covers sewn over our batten pockets where chafe has arisen.

We put one reef in the main when running to stop the sail touching the upper intermediate shrouds.

The ideal Genoa sheet attachment – Vyv Cox

Sails and rigging advice: A soft shackle makes an ideal genoa sheet attachment. Credit: Vyv Cox

There are many different ways in which genoa sheets may be attached to the sail, ranging from the simple but inelegant cow hitch, via bowlines or other knots, to some quite sophisticated methods.

In most cases they may be much of a muchness but there is one particular case that complicates the issue, and this is the presence of a baby-stay.

On our boat the combination of a large overlapping genoa and baby-stay has probably led to more sailing foul-ups than anything else on the boat.

Over the years we have tried most common methods of attachment but in every one there is a good chance that the knot or join will catch when tacking.

The only answer, short of going forward to unhitch it is to let the boat’s bow fall away until the sail blows free, not conducive to efficient tacking and doubling the effort of sheeting the sail home on the new tack.

We have tried most types of bearing on the stay itself, large and small diameter plastic tubes in various order, but none was truly satisfactory.

Then, soft shackles came onto the market. This seemed like the perfect solution to the problem, and so it proved.

I spliced loops into the end of each sheet, not quite as easily as it might have been as I was using a welding rod as a fid, and working with rope that was several years old.

Nonetheless, after an afternoon’s work we had a new system to try and the transformation was remarkable.

I cannot claim that the sail never hangs up on tacking but the occasions are pretty rare.

We have now used this same original shackle for 10 years and it continues to give excellent service.

Permanent boom preventer – Helen Melton

A permanent preventer attachment makes sailing easier. Credit: Helen Melton

Our Westerly Ocean 43 has a large, fully battened mainsail.

In light winds, or in anything less than flat seas, we have found it is essential to pin the main into place to curb any unnecessary flogging and hence prevent an accidental crash gybe.

Having a dedicated preventer line and pulley blocks in the cockpit locker ready for such conditions was helpful, but attaching it to the end of the boom in a centre cockpit boat whilst at sea felt like a needlessly hazardous manoeuvre that I wasn’t comfortable with.

We solved the problem by rigging a permanent line along the underside of the boom, one end with a hard eye splice and the other with a snap shackle.

From the relative safety of the mast foot, the preventer can now be secured and winched into place.

Wash your turning blocks with warm water – Graham Walker

Sails and rigging advice: Salt crystals and other debris can prevent turning blocks and clutches from running smoothly. Credit: Graham Walker

Before we set off on our Atlantic passage from Las Palmas, we had an expert rigger do full rig inspection for us.

At the same time he gave us a lot of valuable advice about maintenance.

One thing he recommended was to wash all of our turning blocks and clutches with warm, fresh water to remove all the salt crystals and other debris ingrained in the blocks and their bearings.

We took his advice and used a lot of warm water to wash everything down thoroughly.

It was eye-opening to see how much friction we were able to remove from the system by getting everything really clean.

That then translated directly into less effort on sail handling and sail changes.

Think like a climber – Helen Melton

Using an ascender and climbing hardness has made it easier for the crew of SeaEye to climb the mast. Credit: Helen Melton

After a few years of taxing work winching a crew member, sat in a bosun’s chair, up the mast we rethought how to lighten the load, (literally) and bought ourselves two ascenders and a climbing harness.

Also known as jumars, they clip and lock to a rope – we use the spinnaker halyard on our boat – sliding freely in one direction but clamping firmly when pulled in the opposite direction.

By using them in pairs, one with a foot loop affixed, the climber can alternate taking weight through their harness whilst easily manoeuvring the other upwards, then stepping up on the foot loop.

In an emergency, the mast can be ascended alone without support whilst if crew are available, a second halyard can be used as a safety line.

This brings about an added advantage when descending in that they can be lowered away efficiently on the winch.

A rigger, who has recently worked on our boat, works alone and always uses this technique, mousing his own halyard to be 100% certain of the condition of the line bearing his weight.

It is recommended that you wear a helmet when climbing the mast.

Check furling line fairleads – Harry Dekkers

A worn furling line fairlead can make hauling lines heavy work. Credit: Harry Dekkers

Do you sometimes wonder why your headsail furling line is not running freely? Is it the wind, the furling system itself or is it a problem with the furling line fairlead?

I found out that mine was 50 pert cent worn out, as you can see in the picture.

No wonder it took me a lot of effort.

It is also worth remembering that when unfurling your headsail, always control the furling line because if a strong wind makes the headsail run out too fast, the furling line will be tangled in the furling drum and you will only notice it once you need to furl the sail again

Practice working aloft – Graham Walker

Sails and rigging advice: Make sure every crew member has experience going aloft. Credit: Kate Walker

Who normally goes aloft when the need arises?

Depending on the task and the situation it may not always be appropriate for this to be the most experienced person (possibly the skipper) or the lightest member of the crew.

On a long passage it makes good sense for all members of the crew to have experience going aloft and putting other crew members aloft.

Before our transatlantic we made sure that everyone on board had the opportunity to go aloft and experience working on the mast.

Cost-effective mainsheet horse – Tony Curphey

Tony’s mainsheet horse has stood up well to a circumnavigation of the world. Credit: Tony Curphey

Most of the changes I make to my Nicholson 32 are for economic and simplistic reasons.

When I built the new large stern locker to reduce the volume of my cockpit, I had to move the mainsheet horse.

The new mainsheet horse was very simple and cost only the price of four new long 12mm stainless steel ringbolts.

It is also better than the old one because it’s higher so doesn’t chafe on the top guardrail when sailing off the wind.

I used the original four bolt holes for the new long ringbolts but raised them with hardwood by 5 inches.

A single length of 3-strand pre-stretched 10mm polyester rope (the boltrope from an old sail) was passed through all four ringbolt eyes and the ends tied together.

The sliding part of the horse is a 12mm stainless steel bow shackle, over all four parts of the rope. All ringbolts have equal strain.

The rope horse did a complete circumnavigation via the Southern Ocean with very little sign of wear.

Put chafe guard on your genoa sheet – Graham Walker

Chafe guard will make your sheets last longer. Credit: Graham Walker

When we started sailing longer passages we read about the problem of chafe, particularly on genoa sheets when poled out downwind.

The junction between the jaw on the pole and the section of sheet just behind the bowline seemed to be a particular area of wear.

\We learnt that rigging the pole so as to minimise movement between the jaw and the sheet makes a massive difference.

To try to eliminate any possible chafe we put Dyneema chafe guard on the first 2m of the genoa sheets, covering the area that would be in contact with the pole jaw.

After 12 years we’ve replaced a few metres of chafe guard, but we still have our original genoa sheets.

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The $tingy Sailor

Diy trailerable sailboat restoration and improvement without throwing your budget overboard.

How to Rig a Self-Tacking Jib for Free!

You may not have seen or even heard of a self-tacking jib before. They’re usually only found on luxury sailboats. But that’s exactly what one is, a headsail that sheets itself when you tack. You don’t have to cast off the working sheet and haul in the lazy sheet on every tack. In fact, after you set it up, you don’t have to touch the sheet again while sailing. You just push the helm to lee, come about as you normally would, and the jib passes through the fore triangle by itself and stops on the new lee side at the same sheeting angle as it was before the tack. I set one up for free and you can too.

Before I continue, a bit of legal housekeeping. This post contains affiliate links. That means I receive a small commission if you make a purchase using those links. Those commissions help to pay the costs associated with running this site so that it stays free for everyone to enjoy. For a complete explanation of why I’m telling you this and how you can support this blog without paying more, please read my full disclosure .

Self-tacking headsails are becoming more and more popular on high-end cruising yachts as designers strive to remove as much effort from sailing as possible with headsail furlers, in-mast mainsail furling, electric winches, autopilots, and more. Seems it won’t be long before sailboats are fly-by-wire like airplanes and driverless cars. How lazy will we get?

But there are practical benefits to a self-tacking jib if you:

• Are single-handed or short-handed on crew.
• Are short tacking through a narrow passageway.
• Have a broken jib car or winch that makes normal tacking impossible or dangerous.
• Or your crew are seriously chilling (lazy) and you’d rather not have to mind the headsail.

A selfie (tacker) you can really use

The basic principle of a self-tacking jib is simple; a means for the clew of the jib to remain sheeted throughout its arc of travel from one side of the sailboat to the other during tacks. Commercial self-tacking systems accomplish this with an arc-shaped track mounted to the foredeck. The jib clew is attached to the track by a single sheet to a car that glides freely on the track like a traveler. The sheet leads to the cockpit where the skipper can adjust the jib shape by trimming the sheet. Such systems can cost many hundreds of dollars to retrofit to a conventional yacht.

The picture below shows the system with a thick red line that I will describe and it cost me nothing new to set up.

Instead of a track fixed to the deck, this system uses a block temporarily fixed to the jib clew. It reuses one of the headsail sheets you already have to form a bridle on the foredeck for the block to ride on. The other headsail sheet is not used.

The only other parts you need are two turning blocks. They can be snatch blocks that you keep on hand for miscellaneous jobs, your spinnaker sheet blocks if they’re portable, or they can be permanent blocks that you install just for this purpose (in that case, your system won’t be free). Heck, even two carabiners will work. If you only have one block or carabiner, reave the sheet directly through the clew grommet in step 2 below instead and attach your block or carabiner to the side deck where it can lead the sheet. The clew will have a little more friction but not enough to keep it from working.

When I want to set up the jib for self-tacking, I just move my existing spinnaker sheet blocks forward from the aft coamings to midship. I won’t be flying the spinnaker at the same time so they won’t be in use anyway. I like these 40mm web attachment style blocks from Nautos . They’re high quality, inexpensive, and work great. Instead of lashing them with webbing, I use 5/32″ dyneema loops or soft shackles.

For easy, versatile, and economical ways to attach these blocks to almost anything like you see in the pictures here, check out the continuous loops of dyneema that I describe in How to Rig a Cruising Spinnaker in 4 Stingy Stages and  DIY Soft Shackles for Quick and Easy Headsail Changes .

This self-tacking setup works best with a small headsail. I set up my 110% jib this way and it works okay. A larger headsail would not work. A 90% jib, storm sail, or trysail would work even better. That’s because, in order for the jib to set as flat as possible, the foot of the sail should be no longer than the distance from the sail’s tack to the jib sheet bridle.

Do it your self-tacker

To rig a self-tacking jib:

1. Tie one end of the sheet to a point on the deck approximately abeam of the mast and as far outboard as possible. On a C-22, a forward stanchion base is a good place. If you have a toerail, you have lots of choices and can adjust the bridle position for the best sail shape. The picture below (taken from the foredeck looking aft) shows the middle of my single sheet tied to the starboard forward stanchion base. The lazy half of the sheet is leading aft. The working half of the sheet leads out of the picture frame to the right. I keep a soft shackle tied to an alpine butterfly knot in the middle of my headsail sheet where I attach the clews of my headsails. I describe this more in DIY Soft Shackles for Quick and Easy Headsail Changes . That soft shackle is tied to the stanchion base here.

2. Lead the working end of the sheet to the foredeck and reave it through one of the turning blocks that you have attached to the jib clew. The picture below shows one of my spinnaker sheet blocks tied to the jib clew with a simple girth hitch. The continuous loop makes it easy to tie and remove in seconds.

3. Continue leading the sheet across the foredeck to the opposite point on the toerail or stanchion base and reave the sheet through the second turning block (or carabiner) that you attach there. The picture below (taken from the foredeck looking aft) shows the block tied to the port forward stanchion base.

4. Continue leading the sheet aft and through the jib car block as usual. Wrap the sheet a couple of turns around the winch and cleat it off as usual, leaving a couple feet of slack at the jib clew.

That’s all there is to it. Now you just need to trim the sheet out on the water.

Get your self-tacker into shape

To trim the self-tacking sheet:

• While pointed straight into the wind, raise the jib as you normally would. If you normally use one, the self-tacker works best without a pendant to raise the tack off the deck. You want the sail to open up as much as possible and to do that it needs to be as low as possible.
• Bear off the wind slowly until the jib fills.
• Trim the self-tacking sheet to get the best shape possible. Ease the sheet out and the clew will rise, the sail will twist, begin to luff, and spill air. Pull the sheet in and the clew will pull toward the deck, hook the sail toward the mast, and form a full, baggy shape. Experiment with your particular setup until you find the optimal shape that you can get when rigged this way for your wind conditions.

You probably won’t be able to get a nice, flat, foil shape, especially with a working jib but it will still work. I’ve made 4.5 knots with this setup in 10-15 mph winds and that was with a reefed mainsail and dragging a wad of weeds the size of a basketball wrapped around my keel cable. Temporarily suppress the rule in your mind that says you have to trim the headsail flat when sailing upwind. You can pull the rule back out when you revert to a conventional headsail setup.

When it comes time to tack, just announce “helm’s a-lee!” and come about. The clew block will roll across on the bridle that you have tied across the deck and the jib will set on the other side by itself.

When not to be self-centered

There are a few caveats that come with this technique:

• It works best in medium airs due to the compromised sail shape. Light airs are too weak to develop much forward power with this shape. The sail also isn’t flat enough for safe sailing in heavy airs. But if an unexpected gust comes up, you can blow the jib by casting the sheet off at the winch like you normally would.
• It doesn’t work well downwind because the sail is held too close to the center of the boat where it falls in the mainsail shadow. So use this setup upwind only or in very short downwind runs.
• You won’t be able to point very high into the wind, also due to the sail shape. Consequently, you won’t make much upwind progress if that’s your course. It’s best used when you’re casually daysailing or turning laps between two points 180° opposed. It works great for that.
• You can’t heave-to when set up this way because you can’t backwind the jib. It will just cross the foredeck and you’ll wind up tacking. To heave to, you have to reset your sheets to a conventional setup.

I think this is an interesting technique that’s useful in specific conditions. Racers and other sail trim experts may scoff and call it a dumb trick. Let them, but give it a try sometime and consider it another tool in your bag of sailing skills. You shouldn’t need to buy anything (or very little) to set it up and you’ve got nothing to lose by trying but a little of your time. I bet that if you set it up right, you’ll be pleased with how much more relaxing it can make sailing. Especially if you don’t have a particular destination in mind and you don’t care how fast you get there. Isn’t that some of the best of times to be had when sailing?

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21 thoughts on “ how to rig a self-tacking jib for free ”.

Looks good – looking forward to trying it out. Thanks Mr. $tingy!

I may have missed something, but I don’t see how the self tacking headsail can be adjusted to allow for heave to. To me, that’s one of the most important maneuvers a sailor need to have under his/her belt.

You’re right, Bill. I forgot to mention that as one of the caveats. You can’t backwind the jib when setup this way without first going forward and moving the normal clew knot back to the clew.

Just got round to reading this – what a great idea! Will try this next time I take Tamariu out – thank you $tingy, another winner!

I’ve recently sold off the last of my salt-water navy in favor (at age 81) of returning to lake sailing where the hint of menace that added spice to my coastal adventures for fifty years is blissfully absent. After restoring a derelict Rhodes 19 and launching her last summer, I quickly realized that instead of tacking every hour or two or three as on Penobscot Bay, I was coming about every five or ten minutes. Time for a self-tacking jib, but I am unwilling to spring a few grand for a Hoyt or whatever, I’ve been looking high and low for an easy solution for this matter. Bingo! Today I discovered The $tingy Sailor and this great article. I’ll be putting this great plan into action next week, and every time I call out “hard a-lee” this coming summer long, I’ll thank you that all it means for the crew is “hold onto your drink while I come about”. Ahhh…

Sail on, Eliot!

Nice trick, nice explanation, good warning of caveats. A riggig to try in my sailboat. Thanks!

Maybe a silly question, but I have a roller furler, not a hank on headsail. Is it still possible to use this set up with a furler? I imagine that you would just slack the sheet as you furl the sail. I don’t think the the clew block would be an issue. Any thoughts?

It shouldn’t be a problem. Give it a try!

Well, I rigged up this self tacking jib on my boat and love it!! It’s so much easier having guests aboard without them all constantly moving around to grind the winches and pull lines. I have it set up on a furler which makes the job even easier. The sail luff stops just before the mast, so it’s perfect. I am loving the ease of it! Thank you so much for this great idea!

I will try it on my 1977 Hunter 27 with 85% hank on jib. Thank you.

Thanks – Extremely interesting, and very clear!

From the introducing picture you can already see that this doesn’t work. In the picture the jib maybe uses 30% of its efficiency on a beat to windward. A real self tacking system gets 100 % out of the sail size. Needs a track and a sail that is designed low enough at the clew. A keelboat can be tacked slowly, so you have time to pull the jib sheet tight before the jib fills in the tack. We rarely use the winch handle on a J/80 while racing (international level) in up to 30 knots.

And yet, this system DOES work. I didn’t claim that it would work as well as a “real” self-tacking system and I state the limitations in the article. But for the average recreational sailor (not J/80 racers) that doesn’t need and can’t afford an engineered system, it works well enough to be an option in some situations.

Greetings , thanks for a very interesting article. I’m brand new at sailing just spent a year restoring a 17ft Proctor Pirate , hoping to launch next month so I’m looking all over the net for articles on sailing. I must add this one I am going to try for sure . Looking forward to more sailing info. Thanks for this =) Phill

Just out of curiosity, was the C-22 you were referring to a Catalina 22? We have one also, and I’m hoping a self-tacking jib will make my wife more amenable to cruising along the Southern California coast with our 110 percent jib. Also, was there a link for the soft shackle?

Yep, C-22 is shorthand for Catalina 22. You can read my post about soft shackles at DIY Soft Shackles for Quick and Easy Headsail Changes

Hi, Flying Scot (T) sailor writing. Just came accrost your article about the self Tacking Jib for free! Like’d it very much! Very clear and good directions. Do you think rig will work on my Flying Scot(t) ? Thanks. Flying Scot(t) from Syracuse NY.

Hi, Scott Because the mast of the Flying Scot is so far forward, it would only work with a headsail that doesn’t overlap the mast.

On a furling headsail, can this be rigged at the dock and the headsail rolled up until it’s time to unfurl? Hard for me to visualize how that would look.

Yes, works just the same but instead of having knots at the clew, you have a block.

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Make Your Own Over-the-Boom Riding Sail

Delighted with the performance of the over-the-boom riding sail, we decided to make our own.

To measure, we outlined the proposed sail area with -inch rope and measurer the resulting edge lengths. The rope ran from starboard stern cleat, over the boom (raised 30 degrees) to the port cleat, and then forward about 75 percent of the length of the boom, and down to the starboard cleat again. The forward corner was secured to the mast with a length of line.

The lines were then lashed together at a point about shoulder high to simulate the clew position, making sure the sheet angle bisected the proposed clew angle. Because each boat behaves differently at anchor, consider using a polyethylene tarp to build a mock-up.

You can reduce the area of a large sail by narrowing the Y or V or lowering the boom, but a smaller sail will be more robust in strong winds. The corners should be reinforced like any jib. Because the riding sail might be used in very strong winds, use storm weight sailcloth and stitch rugged hems that are at least 1.5 to 2 inches wide, or reinforce all edges with webbing. Corner patches must be heavy. All riding sails are cut flat, with no broadseam.

Conventional sail kits are available from Sailrite ( www.sailrite.com ). When measuring be careful your chosen design it does not interfere with your bimini or dodger and be sure to confirm the forward clew angle.

A note on fabrics. Although polyester (Dacron) sailcloth has coatings that provide UV protection, no sail material is impervious to the sun. Unprotected Dacron will begin to fail within three years of continuous exposure. Top Gun and Sunbrella have more UV resistance, but they stretch-and Sunbrella is vulnerable to chafe. PS is currently researching paints for UV protection of sails, but final results will not be available for several years.

Our provisional suggestion is Amazon Inflatable Paint in gray. For use at anchor we would use the same weight sailcloth as used on the mainsail. For use on a mooring we recommend increasing the fabric weight and painting the sail for UV protection.

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I misunderstood the design and from Pic #2 I thought the riding sail had a spine between the front triangle and the aft triangles. I had seen a design like that over 10 years ago and figured that was the concept here.

So I went ahead and made mine like that. It has two aft triangles and one leading triangle. Turned out great even if not the design intended.

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