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Fin with rudder on skeg

Specifications HUNTER 30

1973 - 30.40 ft / 9.27 m - Hunter Marine (USA) - John Cherubini

HUNTER 30 Sailboat Data

Hull Type: Fin with rudder on skeg Rigging Type: Masthead Sloop LOA: 30.40 ft / 9.27 m LWL: 25.75 ft / 7.85 m S.A. (reported): 453.00 ft² / 42.09 m² Beam: 10.17 ft / 3.10 m Displacement: 9,700.00 lb / 4,400 kg Ballast: 4,100.00 lb / 1,860 kg Max Draft: 5.25 ft / 1.60 m Construction: FG (solid hull and balsa deck) First Built: 1973 Last Built: 1983 # Built: 1000 Builder: Hunter Marine (USA) Designer: John Cherubini

Information from  sailboatdata.com .

Type Engine: Diesel Fuel: 12 gals / 45 L Water: 33 gals / 125 L Hull Speed: 6.80 kn

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Revisiting the Cherubini Hunter 30

CeCe Stoldt

If you grew up sailing in Florida in the 1970s and 80s as I did, you probably spent many hours day dreaming and looking at Hunters, or, if you were fortunate, sailing one. Those memories might not exist at all were it not for bit of luck and perseverance. While the U.S. economy was caught in a global recession, the Hunter plant in Florida was still churning out sailboat hulls by the dozens.

You didnt have to spend a lot of time on these boats to realize that they werent the paragon of craftsmanship. The laminated floor and furniture seemed dated even back then, and the rough glasswork betrayed the boats mission: to persuade the average Joe that even he could still afford a great escape. By the mid-1980s, it seemed as if every third sailboat entering the Biscayne Bays waterborne bacchanalia, the Columbus Day Regatta, was a Hunter. (Escape, as any good boatbuilder knows, can take many forms.)

While Hunters marketing genius is enviable, the true achievement in its early boats like the John Cherubini-designed Hunter 30, which we review in the June issue of Practical Sailor is that theyve managed to endure at all. The Hunter 30 was launched on the wake of the 1973 oil embargo, and the design survived through nine years of stagflation and rising unemployment.

Fortunately, for Hunter and other builders who prevailed in this era, significant improvements in fiberglass construction methods coincided with the need for lower production costs. Laminate schedules were getting thinner, and the higher fiber-to-resin ratio was more economical. Selling sailboats could still be lucrative, but profitability in the mid-price ranges often required a few corners to be cut.

Almost any sailing forum on the Internet has its resident boat snob who compares fixing up and old production boat from the 70s to putting lipstick on a pig. Certainly, the Hunter 30 has some inherent flaws, but none are irredeemable. Just as a vase cracked during firing can hold more charm than the perfect one, an old Hunter 30 can grow on you. The photos submitted by proud owners that accompany the June 2016 boat review are the clearest proof of this.

We stumbled on this inspiring treasure trove by chance. The handwritten surveys in our dusty decades-old file on the Hunter 30 were growing stale, so for this update on the Hunter 30 we turned to current owners for their impressions. A surprising number of owners responded with detailed answers to our questions, and though each had a few quibbles, the overall assessment of the Hunter 30 was overwhelmingly positive.

Of course, I found the tales of customized improvements to be intriguing, but what really moved me were the personal stories behind what might be considered a run-of-the-mill entry-level cruiser. One Hunter 30 had been passed down through two generations, another had sailed to the Caribbean and back, and another had served as an affordable home while its owner pursued a graduate degree.

Browsing the photos of the Hunter 30s featured in the June issue, I was reminded that a boats pedigree is a terrible gauge of a boats true worth. No, a Cherubini-designed Hunter-despite the exotic-sounding name-is not a Morris, a Hinckley, or a Swan. But in the hands of an owner who appreciates his good fortune, a modest Hunter 30 is worth more than the finest megayacht.

See the June 2016 issue for the complete review of the Hunter 30. For an indepth look at more than a dozen classic, entry-level cruising boats that won’t break the bank, you can purchase our two-volume e-book “Entry Level Racer Cruisers” at our online bookstore .

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Hunter 30 Propellor

• Thread starter Ray
• Start date Mar 24, 2004
• Hunter Owner Forums
• Mid-Size Boats

Can anyone give me advice on the correct propellor size for the Hunter 30 fitted with a YANMAR 2GM20F? I've got a 15/12 two blade on now and I am at max hull speed around 2750/2800 RPM. Giving it more power just strains the engine. Should I go down to a 14/12 or a 15/10?  

Dean Strong

Michigan Propeller Check the web sight for Michigan Propeller. They have a great form, and will size the correct prop for you based on max engine RPM, hull speeds, etc.You have to do some flat water trial runs to get it right.  

Bryan Pfaffenberger

Sounds correctly sized to me! To avoid SERIOUS mechanical problems and shortened engine life, a marine diesel engine should be operated (under load) at 85% of its maximum RPMs, which in the case of the Yanmar GM engines means 2800-2900 RPM. Diesels hate to be babied! Don't hesitate to run your engine up to the 85% level continuously. For more information, see http://www.yanmarhelp.com/operate.htm (excellent site!!!)  

Bryan is probably right Ray, you stated that max. hull speed is reached at 2750 to 2800. If you mean that you are in fact reaching hull speed at that rpm, which is the most fuel efficient speed according to the engine curves, your prop may be perfect. Attempt to go above hull speed will simply drain fuel with no significant gain in speed. If you are not reaching hull speed and cannot get your engine above 2750 to 2800, it would indicate that your prop may be too coarse. Good idea to check for leading edge damage, growth or fouling as well.  

but you should be able to reach -3400-3600 Ray:If you have the propper prop you should be able to reach 3400-3600 when you are in gear. I had a 15 x 12 on our H31 and it would not rev to 3400 rpm. We now have a 15 x 11 and are still slightly over propped (different type of prop). When determining prop pitch/diameter etc., you should consult with a Good prop shop and have them size it for you. Generally when you add a blade (i.e.: 2 blade to 3 blade you would use the same size prop with 1-2 deg. less pitch. You really do not want to take my word for it. Contact a good prop shop. They should stand behind their decision and would replace/ repair your prop if it were not the correct combination. You really do not need to worry about 'straining' a Yanmar. If you stay within the parameters that they are rated you will be fine. I believe that you can run a 2GM at 3400 rpms for an hour. The optimum RPM is in the 2500-3000 rpm range and you will find its' sweet spot somewhere in that range.  

check out this site I just ordered a new prop from this site they have a pretty comprehensive form to fill out to determine the correct prop for your boat. They recommended a campbell sailor CS3RH14x8x1 for my H-31, with a 2GM20F which seems odd but it is not a standard propeller. Check them out at the link below  

prop size My '80 Hunter 30 has a three blade 13x13 and a Yanmar 2GM20F... Full hull speed at 3400 RPM with a cruising speed of 5.8 knots at 2800 RPM. I will say that there are about 3 different gear ratios for the 2GM20F... Prop size and pitch are dependent on the shaft rpm, not the motor rpm that shows on the tachometer. My motor has a 2.62 gear ratio. You can determine the gear ratio from the tag on the case. good luck!  

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Hullspeed and the Speed/Length Ratio

So what gives one boat better hullspeed than another? This question was pondered long and hard by William Froude (1810 to 1869), a British engineer who had a special fascination with the sea and ships.

Funded by the Admiralty, who were clearly very keen to get some answers to this question, he built a tank testing facility at Torquay, where he experimented with various model hull forms.

As an early expert in model analysis he was well acquainted with the 'law of mechanical similitude' , which demonstrates among other things that there are few linear relationships in hull design.

So just what is the answer?

Let's take a look...

Hullspeed and the Matchbox Analogy

Consider your hull as a matchbox - not wonderfully efficient hydrodynamically, but stick with it for a moment.

Dissatisfied with the constraints of matchbox living, you decide to double its size. You add another matchbox ahead to double its length, two alongside to double its beam and four on top to double its draft.

Now wetted area has increased by four, volume and displacement by eight and stability - as the product of its mass and acceleration - has increased sixteenfold.

So by doubling a hull's dimensions, wetted area is squared, displacement is cubed and stability increases by the power of four.

With this knowledge and that gained by carefully measuring applied force and resultant movement, Froude was able to both calculate and demonstrate that a relationship existed between hull speed and waterline length - that relationship being known and described in the metric world as 'Froude Numbers'.

The Speed/Length Ratio

However, most of us more accustomed to units of feet and knots are probably more familiar with the Froude Number's close relation - the Speed/Length Ratio.

S/L Ratio = hullspeed (in knots) divided by the square root of the waterline length (in feet)

This discovery enabled Froude to compare the performance of boats of different length. For example a 25ft sailboat moving at 5 knots would have the same S/L Ratio at a 100ft patrol boat steaming along at 10knots, and consequently both would develop the same resistance per ton of displacement at those speeds.

For Froude's models, having no rig above the waterline to create windage, this resistance was caused by two principal factors; hull drag and wave making resistance.

Maximum Hull Speed

Maximum hull speed (in knots) = 1.34 x the square root of the waterline length (in feet)

These figures relate to a boat in displacement mode. If sufficient power can be applied to overcome hull drag and enable the boat to plane, then other criteria will affect ultimate hullspeed.

Any Questions?

What is the theoretical hull speed of a non-planing boat?

The theoretical hull speed is the maximum speed that a non-planing boat can achieve in displacement mode, when the wavelength of its bow wave is equal to its waterline length. Beyond this speed, the boat will encounter increasing wave resistance and will need more power to overcome it.

What factors affect the theoretical hull speed of a boat?

The main factor that affects the theoretical hull speed of a boat is its waterline length, which determines the wavelength of its bow wave. The longer the waterline length, the higher the theoretical hull speed. Other factors that may influence the actual speed of a boat include its hull shape, displacement, draft, trim, sail area, wind and sea conditions, and propeller efficiency.

What is the difference between planing and non-planing boats?

Planing boats are boats that can lift themselves partially or fully out of the water and ride on top of their own bow wave, reducing their wetted surface area and drag. Planing boats can exceed their theoretical hull speed and reach higher speeds with less power. Non-planing boats are boats that remain fully submerged in the water and cannot climb over their own bow wave. Non-planing boats are limited by their theoretical hull speed and require more power to increase their speed.

What is the 'half angle of entrance' and how does it affect wave resistance?

The half angle of entrance is the angle between the waterline and the centerline of a boat at its bow. The smaller the half angle of entrance, the finer the bow shape and the lower the wave resistance. A fine bow can slice through water with minimal disturbance, while a blunt bow can generate large waves and drag. The half angle of entrance is one of the key factors that determines the wave-making resistance of a boat.

How can I increase the speed of my non-planing boat?

There are several ways to increase the speed of your non-planing boat, such as:

• Increasing your sail area or using more efficient sails;
• Reducing your displacement or weight;
• Optimizing your trim or balance;
• Improving your propeller efficiency or reducing your propeller drag;
• Choosing a finer or longer hull shape;
• Sailing in favorable wind and sea conditions.

What are some common misconceptions about hull speed?

Some common misconceptions about hull speed are: - Hull speed is a fixed limit that cannot be exceeded by non-planing boats. In reality, hull speed is a theoretical estimate that can be surpassed by some boats with sufficient power or sail area, but at the cost of increased wave resistance and drag.

• Hull speed is the same for all boats with the same waterline length. In reality, hull speed can vary depending on the hull shape, displacement, draft, and trim of the boat, as well as the wind and sea conditions;
• Hull speed is the optimal speed for non-planing boats. In reality, hull speed is often too high for non-planing boats to maintain efficiently or comfortably, especially in adverse conditions. A lower speed that minimizes wave-making resistance and maximizes fuel or power efficiency may be more desirable.

The above answers were drafted by sailboat-cruising.com using GPT-4 (OpenAI’s large-scale language-generation model) as a research assistant to develop source material; to the best of our knowledge,  we believe them to be accurate.

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• Sailboat Guide

1992 Hunter 30T

• Description

Seller's Description

1992 Hunter 30. Perfect weekend cruiser for a couple or small family. This vessel has been maintained by its current owners since 2006 and is turnkey. Just gas and go.

Equipment: 16K BTU Dockside AC Raymarine ST-60 Instruments (Depth, Speed) Raymarine Autopilot Main and 130 Genoa like new 8’ Zodiac with 2hp Honda Docklines and bumpers

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Updated version of HUNTER 30-2. ‘T’ shaped cockpit.

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Hunter horizon 30

The hunter horizon 30 is a 29.99ft fractional sloop designed by david thomas and built in fiberglass by hunter boats ltd. (uk) between 1993 and 1998., 52 units have been built..

The Hunter horizon 30 is a moderate weight sailboat which is a good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a good righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a coastal cruiser. The fuel capacity is originally very small. There is a short water supply range.

Hunter horizon 30 for sale elsewhere on the web:

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