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Tips on painting your peeling mast.

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Chips and scrapes in a carefully painted mast start out as a cosmetic issue. But as moisture intrudes and corrosion takes over the paint blisters and hard metal becomes powdery aluminum oxide. Left unattended, especially in damp, salty areas, such as in the bilge or underneath mast hardware, this corrosion process can destroy metal and impair the integrity of the spar.

Corrosion is often exacerbated by other alloys that are in direct contact with an aluminum spar. They create a galvanic interaction between the two different metals. The stainless steel hardware in the photo below is a good example of how oxidation and galvanic corrosion conspire to destroy aluminum. Notice the paint blistering around the perimeter. There is no sign of either a dielectric plastic gasket or bedding compound separating the two metals. Dissimilar metal corrosion takes place when one material is significantly more noble (less corrosion-prone) than the other. In this case, the 6061-T6 aluminum spar behaves like a sacrificial zinc you put on your hull, corroding due to its contact with the more noble stainless steel hardware.

Spot Repairs

Spot paint repairs can be done and are always a good idea as long as the remainder of the painted spar is in good condition. Otherwise it may be time to un-step and go through a complete strip, prime and paint process. The best approach is to start with a top down inspection tallying up the bad spots.  Minor coating damage without any deep pitting can be considered cosmetic. But in areas where there’s extensive blistering and deep pitting, structural concerns may be warranted.

There are two common, and distinctly different levels of paint failure. In the first, there are random scrapes and corrosion spots on the spar. These are indicative of minor cosmetic corrosion and are fairly easy to spot repair by following the steps listed below.

The corrosion seen around the perimeter of the stainless steel fitting shown in the adjacent photo is a more serious problem. Before tackling the paint failure, the fitting needs to be removed by drilling out the pop rivet heads. Carefully clean away all aluminum oxide using white vinegar and a stainless steel wire brush. Inspect the underlying aluminum, noting any cracks, deep crevasses or extensive pitting around the pop rivet holes. If there’s any deformation of the spar wall itself, it’s time to have a rigger take a close look. This is especially true if the hardware handles tensile loading from standing or running rigging.

The prep/paint process begins with removing corrosion and returning the area to bright, shiny aluminum. Use the wire brush mentioned above to remove oxidation from pitted regions. Sand with 80 grit paper to achieve a smooth but “toothy” taper from the good paint to the damaged area. Wipe with an alcohol or acetone and a clean cotton cloth. The next step is to etch prime the surface and follow up with a two part epoxy primer or single part primer depending on what type of top coat is being used. Before top coating, sand with 120 and 220 grit paper.

Most painted masts are white and there are so many shades of the color that a perfect match is all but impossible. The best answer is to purchase the exact paint used the last time the spar was painted. If not, an “almost the same” color will look just fine and more importantly, corrosion will be halted dead in its tracks.


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Great article Ralph. I really appreciated the discussion about the remedy. I am curious what approach to bedding and galvanic isolation of fasteners you would take. I’ve had great success with Tef-gel on threaded fasteners. Would you recommend that on rivets? 4200 under the stainless fitting?

Thanks and hope life is treating you well!

Dave Nielsen

Last year I took my Coronado 35 to a boat yard for new standing rigging.I did not like the way the mast looked cosmetically and wanted it painted. Boatyard says strip the aluminum mast. I did. Mast was stripped and all new h/w put on. So now i have a bare aluminum mast. Mistake? I need to go back and take abd rigging off again and prep and paint it?

The sideways migration of corrosion can be prevented by the application of a thin coat of chromate primer or treatment with Alodyne prior to applying other non-chromate finishes. In addition, you don’t want to delay between the final grinding or grit blasting – especially in a salt air environment. For smaller pieces that will fit in a plating tank, hard anodize is the best protection.

I’ve got a black anodized aluminum mast on my Olson 911 that is in need of restoration. The bottom 8′ were painted years ago to address various cosmetic issues, but now the entire mast is really in need of restoration. There are signs of galvanic corrosion at fittings, especially in the painted section. These fitting were caulked when first installed after painting, but the caulking seems to have been an insufficient way to isolate the aluminum from the stainless steel fittings, as the fasteners were large in some instances and tapped into the aluminum, not pop riveted. A rubber or plastic gasket was used in some locations, but the corrosion seems to start at the fasteners, which have direct contact. Perhaps coating the threads prior to final install in addition to a gasket would do the trick? I’m thinking of welding custom aluminum pads at each fitting location to deal with the existing corrosion, prior to painting – does that seem sensible? We would then tap the pad for the fasteners and avoid penetrating the mast section.

We’ve tested several coatings for spar fasteners. https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/anti-seize-coatings-for-spars

Instead of paint, I used two-part Permalac ( https://permalac.com/ ) which is clear and used on applications such as bronze statuary. I also applied it to my bronze tillerhead as an experiment to test its durability, since the tillerhead is frequently exposed to seawater. After four years, the tillerhead is still bright and shiny bronze without any patina.

The advantage of using a clear coating is: when it gets old, it doesn’t look nasty like deteriorated white paint.

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painting aluminum masts

By Randy Jones September 23, 2019 in B & B Yachts Forum

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Randy jones.

I've tried to read every old post on painting aluminum mast.  Proper preparation is a consistent theme but I have a few questions:

1. Who's got an old mast paint job in good condition and how did you do it?

2. Do you prime and paint prior to attaching the sail track? 

3. Do you leave the B&B aluminum track unpainted?

My current plan is to degrease, sand, and immediately spray with 3 coats self etching aluminum primer. Then prime with System 3 Silver Tip primer and top coat with Systems 3 white LPU.  Since I don't a have a spray gun the self-etching primer will be from a spray can, the Silver Tip and LPU will be brush and roller.  

I'd appreciate guidance.  

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I did what you did....except with awlgrip products and was all roll and tip. Paint has done well for approx. 3 years. Chips/rubs off in high friction areas (mast tube opening/bottom). Also bubbles around screws etc that were not initially sealed.

I put on sail track after painting. Would not paint, as that would potentially affect the ease of hoisting the sails. I have limited experience...only my opinion.

Alan Stewart

I've seen some in great condition painted and I think the secret is not letting ANY salt water get to the aluminum after painting. Joe's EC-22 mast for example hasn't a flaw on it. He has the ss track. 

I plan to prime and paint my mast prior to attaching the track. I too want to try etching primer. In the past we've just cleaned the surface really well and went straight on with awlgrip 545 followed by topcoat without sanding between. a good spray job and the result is still pretty smooth and it beats sanding the primer by hand. 

The track itself is anodized clear so no need to paint it. 

I think you have a sound plan. If you wanted to you could put on all your hardware (or at least drill and deburr holes for it) then prime and paint in hopes of getting that last bit of primer needed to protect the aluminum. Bedding compound everything going down. I like butyl rubber for that. 


I used Amerlock 2/400 epoxy primer and Amercoat 450H two part polyurethane. Exactly same system I put on the boat. Got good mileage out of my paint cans that way. Not a marine paint as such but it is a GOOD stuff. Both were actually designed for metal application so the mast makes for a preferred application from manufacturer's point of view. Glass comes close second in my experience. Held up really well over 5 years. Sprayed the boat and rolled the masts. Installed hardware after painting, Used Tuffgell on screws.  PeterP

  • 2 weeks later...

Don Silsbe

I used Rustoleum products on my masts.  I took care to sand immediately before applying the etching primer.  The paint is holding up very well after four years’ use, with one exception.  The high stress areas around the base are too much for this paint.  As you can see, it has chipped off.  Everywhere else, it looks perfect.  Not sure if any paint could withstand this stress.  If I were to do something differently, it would be to not paint this part of the mast.


I was thinking of drilling the holes for the new aluminum sail track before taking the masts over to be locally powder coated. Has anyone gone down this road?

I still plan to use tuffgel upon mounting the track, but I think the spars should be pretty well protected with exceptions of excessive wear i.e. snotter.

I retract my previous post due to my oversight in searching earlier posting topics on powder coating. I found insightful information which is leading me to rethink the opinion of painting as per Don’s process using Rustoleum or similar.

Another option would be to have the tubes anodized before applying the fiberglass collars and installing the track. Graham has been collecting sulfuric battery acid thinking he might try some diy anodizing in his "extra" spare time. We probably all know about that mythical concept (spare time).  


I have hollow bird's mouth Douglas Fir masts.  I like everything about them except they are a bit heavy to step.  I still do fine, but I can see the day I won't want to lift them any more.  My next set of masts are possibly going to be thin wall wooden masts with a carbon sleeve epoxied over them.  Graham says he has done the math, and this will meet spec. Another thought I had was to build a thinner wall aluminum mast and epoxy the carbon sleeve over it.  Would this be strong enough?  I figure by plugging, the sealed sleeve and epoxy it would make the mast water tight.  Then by bedding all hardware to the epoxy it would end up very light and float.  Does anyone with knowledge of carbon, epoxy and aluminum have any thoughts on this?

What's the latest thinking regarding the "ramps" under the sail track where it spans from one aluminum tube size to another?  Do you build these up with thickened epoxy before track installation or is there an easier way?   I seem to be making this harder then necessary.   


I made some ramps with epoxy.  There wasn't much to it, pretty simple, especially on the joints that had the taped gasket, since I let that run out some into the exposed section of the smaller tube.  Looked nicer that way. 

We have been using some packing tape under the track and clamping it down into a bed of thickened epoxy and cleanout the squeeze out which forms a nice even wedge. Some choped up glass mixed in would add some strength (less britttleness). 

Nick C

For what it's worth: I made long tapered ramps out of Starboard, bedded all with 3M 4200, and I also used Rustoleum products. What I wish I had done differently is to make an attractive taper all the way around the mast to conceal the steps between sections. I have admired masts where folks did that. Maybe that is a revision to try when repainting is needed.

  • 3 months later...

Does anyone have a picture or two of these tapered ramps?  Or maybe a close up of a mast joint that supports the track well.  

There is some more explanation of the ramp at the end of this video from the sailtrack page. There are quite a few ways to accomplish the ramps that we have used.

-Multi layers of fiberglass molded over the mast. as I did on the CS15 I built. video below.

-UHMW plastic strip shaped into a ramp. Like from a cutting board. 

-Simply using thickened epoxy as shown in video below starts at 8:10

Thank you for your great response to my request and the attached  videos.   They are well done and very helpful.

Best regards,


On 10/9/2019 at 8:55 AM, Hirilonde said: I have hollow bird's mouth Douglas Fir masts.  I like everything about them except they are a bit heavy to step.  I still do fine, but I can see the day I won't want to lift them any more.  My next set of masts are possibly going to be thin wall wooden masts with a carbon sleeve epoxied over them.  Graham says he has done the math, and this will meet spec. Another thought I had was to build a thinner wall aluminum mast and epoxy the carbon sleeve over it.  Would this be strong enough?  I figure by plugging, the sealed sleeve and epoxy it would make the mast water tight.  Then by bedding all hardware to the epoxy it would end up very light and float.  Does anyone with knowledge of carbon, epoxy and aluminum have any thoughts on this?  

You don't want carbon to directly contact aluminum. You could put a fiberglass sleeve over the aluminum first. Probably a better idea would be to start with foam, and cover that with carbon sleeves. I'm not sure how you would keep it straight. The issue with the thin-wall aluminum is that it won't significantly contribute to the strength of the mast, only to the weight. The carbon will carry the load until it fails, then the load will go to the aluminum, and that will fail. An all aluminum mast would likely be as light, and cheaper.

Windrider sells a carbon mast for their 16' boat that could possibly be adapted for your use. It's a little less than $1k US. It's in two pieces, so shipping to you would be possible, but probably not cheap. Probably a better idea for those in the US.

  • 5 months later...

I've nearly finished the mast that started this thread some nine months ago.  Finishing method was two coats Rustoleum self etching primer (spray can) followed by brushed on Systems 3 Silver Tip Yacht Primer finished off with brush applied Systems 3 Linear Polyurethane (LPU).  After a bit of a learning curve on the first mast the second one went smoothly.  The B&B mast kit was a great help. 

I'd probably skip the second primer next time as unnecessary but do everything else the same. I'm in isolation following Covid-19 exposure - healthy at day 9 with another 5 days to go.  Thankful to have my own isolation garage and a spouse that leaves me food and the occasional cold beer on the porch. 

Thanks everyone for the advice.  Looking forward to a test sail.  

@Alan Stewart — what do you plan to useon your CS20?  Devoe 2-part poly?  What about primer?

I think im going to try treating my mast tubes with an alodine cromate conversion coating. They make a "clear" alodine coating. This is a chem process like used on unpainted small aircraft. Or as a treatment before painting. The chemicals are a bit icky but its just brushed on or dipped and then rinsed off. The regular alodine leaves the aluminum a golden color which i dont think i want. If it works then i wont paint them just leave metallic.

I spoke to a guy recently who was in the mast and later aircraft business and this is what they do. There are lots of youtube vids on it mostly for prepping homemade aircraft for painting. 

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Alinghi Red Bull Racing suffer catastrophic mast failure

Toby Heppell

  • Toby Heppell
  • June 14, 2024

The Alinghi Red Bull Racing team has suffered a catastrophic mast failure during America's Cup training in Barcelona. All crew are safe and the boat us undamaged

painting sailboat mast

America’s Cup team, Alinghi Red Bull Racing , suffered a catastrophic failure of their mast on Thursday 13 June 2024 while training on their AC75 in in Barcelona, all crew are safe and uninjured.

The mast breakage happened just after 2pm local time with the afternoon sea-breeze well and truly in – a wind the locals call a ‘strong Garbi’ – from 210-220 degrees atop a 0.5-0.8 metres, three-second period swell from 230 degrees.

The incident occurred on the most hazardous point of sail for any high performance boat, during the bear away. It was during this manoeuvre that we saw a capsize from American Magic in the 2021 America’s Cup, the damage from which ultimately saw the US team out of the America’s Cup.

Mid-way through Alinghi Red Bull Racing’s bear-away – the moment at which when acceleration is greatest and loads can shoot up if acceleration is hampered by waves – significant mast bend can be seen before the forestay went slack as the lower section in the bottom third of the mast gave way under pressure forward, causing the rig to collapse into the water to leeward.

Immediately the Alinghi Red Bull Racing sailing and support teams swung into action with divers in the water and all hands on deck to rescue the situation. Thankfully no injuries were reported. Happily for the team it seems the boat was not significantly damaged with only minor scratches observed initially around the bow area.

Silvio Arrivabene, the Co-General Manager of Alinghi Red Bull Racing said: “This afternoon, while executing a bear away in 20-knot winds, there was a mast failure on BoatOne. Everybody on board is safe, which is the most important thing. The boat is already back ashore which will allow us to quickly assess the cause of the failure.”

painting sailboat mast

Photo: Ivo Rovira / America’s Cup

“Incidents like this are part of the sport. The team is prepared for this kind of situation and ready with all the necessary spare parts, so the focus is now on getting BoatOne back on the water as soon as possible.”

The effects of this breakage will be felt further than just in the Alinghi Red Bull Racing camp, however. The masts are a component on the AC75 America’s Cup boat that is very strictly controlled with the rules specifying almsot every aspect of the spar, even down to the laminate layup. As such every team currently training on AC75s in preparation for the America’s Cup is using exactly the same mast.

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Mast Painting

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I just got an estimate from the yard for painting the mast and boom it looks chipped and not very seamanlike at all. does 2500.00 seem like a bunch of money it''s only a thirty foot boat to break it down it goes like this lift time 150.00 labor 165.00 r&r standing rigging 220.00 prep and paint mast and boom 1485.00 plus 400.00 material thats a lot of paint? retune mast 110.00 this seems like a gotcha to me, I may be wrong, but I''am willing to be educated on this not sure I want to pay the price but willing to learn.  

painting sailboat mast

Kryst! For that kind of money I’d bet you could buy brand new sticks for your 30 footer, paint and all! For all it''s worth, why not paint it yourself? Someone out here''s got to know what kind of paint to use and how to prep the aluminum and existing paint (I doubt you''d expect to need the same results as found on the presidential yacht or the like). Besides, wouldn’t it make you that much more proud of ol’ Betsy to be able to say that you did it yourself? Just as a note, I painted my mast but that one''s wood. I used regular old Pittsburgh house paint and it is holding up great after better then 5 years of hard use! Pi  

Yikes! I was going to paint mine as well but after looking at you''re estimate I''m am definetely painting the mast myself. I pick up Don Casey''s book on sailboat refinishing and it covers mast painting, prepping, etching, priming, etc.. It''s pretty interesting reading if I say so myself. Then alls you need to do is pay riggers to remove/replace the mast, tune the rig and your off!  

For that matter, why pay for someone to step and unstep the mast? There are public rigs set up on either side of the bridges of the Shinnecock canal here on Long Island, and they''re very easy to use by just two people. If you''re in an area with a canal or other waterway with low bridges, you might have access to free rigs to pull and step masts too.  

Free lifts? Not here in the west..SF Bay that I know of. Pretty good..I''d go that route myself. Get the book on painting first. Lee  

painting sailboat mast

Holy mackerel!!!! If it''s aluminum and for that kind of money I think I would look into having it black anodized. You''ll never need it painted again. And if your mast sits on a step on deck you can step it yourself. I have a HD 27'' mast that I step everytime I take it out (trailered s/v). If it steps on the keel then you''ll need a lift. What would the cost of a new mast be?  

We repainted ours - it was painted originally and the paint was totally oxidized and missing in many areas. It is A LOT OF WORK. The money does not seem unreasonable. The paint is expensive (we had awlgrip - 2 coats) as are the acid washes (2) and the primers (3). You have to remove EVERYTHING that is removable. This takes a lot of time. You have to CAREFULLY label everything and drop it in ziploc bags or you will never get it put back together. You have to sand EVERY spec of paint off. You have to sand any corroded areas. Then you have to tape anything left that should not be acid washed (stainless fittings). Then you acid wash with one type of product. Then you acid wash with a different type. Then you have to get the first primer on within 3-6 hours of the last wash, which has to be done right after the first wash. The primer has to go on with time to dry before the dew point, so you have to start early. And you will work non stop for hours. Eat a large breakfast and get going. Then 2 more primers. Then you sand with 320 BY HAND. Then you can paint. We did all the work ourselves with the exception of the painting and priming. We paid a painter with a sprayer to spray the primers and the awlgrip. Don''t forget to do the spreaders, the boom, and the mast head. Still want to do it yourself? If you don''t do the prep and all the steps, why bother? It won''t last. $2500 seems cheap now that I''ve done it myself.  

sadie14 Whew!! I think I will take a nap!! Wondering why my wallet is lighter, my arms sore and this extra bag of screws? Everything you say is true, I just didn''t realize it until after I was done. Though, now it is the brightest, shiniest stick in the marina!! Well worth it. Oh, you forgot to warn them about the cost and time of the other projects that creep in like new mast wiring, new anchor and steaming lights (LED, of course, new deck lights..........  

You''re right, John. We also rewired, re-halyarded, re-rigged (ourselves, stayloc), re-lighted, greased winches, new screws on every re-used part. We love the results, but honestly, I would NEVER do it again. (Until I forget the pain.) It was a huge job - not to be undertaken lightly.  

Just had a 55'' main and 30'' mizzen painted.. quote from a good yard was for 2800 had big blow out when I got 7400 bill. Starting to think sometimes new is better than maintenance...but disposable mast<g>  

I have painted several masts. remove all the stuff you can, sand, prime & paint with a brush, roller or spray. Our best paint job was done with the roll & tip method using Brightside paint. The manifacturer instructions will lead you to a beautiful job. John  

mast painting Capt Sea Weed has got it right, sand with 80 grit then 220 then etching primer. I shot mine with urethane 2 part light grey it came out automotive finish just get a good prep its only aluminum  

I''m in the process of painting the mast on my Islander 30 as I type. Using International two part Interthane. I''ve done this before on a previous boat (12 years ago) and it still looks like new. It is a tough paint to apply right but the finish is great. The solvents and paints (prime wash, primer and finish) smell real bad. I''ve pretty well finished the boom, mast step and spreaders, starting next week on the 40 ft mast in the garage (keep the doors open through the laundry room and into the workshop!). The paint is expensive as are the thinners. I calculated that the entire paint job will cost be about $300.00. But it is an enormous amount of work. The mast is 25 years old and badly corroded. Lots of sanding and filling, let alone trying to get the stainless fittings off (can you say grinding and drilling?!?) And then while it''s down the wiring will be replaced, the halyards put inside, new lights and new rigging to go with the Harken furler. Lots of fun (and money!). Good luck.  

Ken, In my opinion 2500. is a very reasonable estimate for unstepping, stripping, preparing, painting, reassembling, restepping and retuning the rig. You would be well advised to take lots of pics or even video the mast and fittings before the disassembly starts wether you have it done by the yard or do it yourself. While the rig is down consider everything else you might want to do. Such as tri-color light, new wiring, antenna, lightning dissapter, conduit if you don''t have it now, etc. etc. Any mast work goes easier and faster when it''s laying on horses. Make sure that the threads of any fasteners that are added after the paint job are coated with an insulating material to prevent corrosion. Bottom line: this is a big job and you should be prepared to be involved every step of the way no matter who does the actual work. Good luck  

Thanks for all the input folks. I think I''ll try to do the mast next year,It''s 70 degrees today and the water is calling,besides the budget is shot for this year and I still have to find a source for teak in the bay area I''m just not use to paying ten a board foot for solid woods would a spruce or fir hold up on a grating?  

Ken, the only places I''ve found here in the Bay Area are 1. Axelrod & Co. Teak - 415-626-4949 2. Exotic Hardwoods & Veniers - 510-436-5702 3. Handloggers 305 Cutting Blvd., Richmond, CA 94804 Tollfree: 800-461-1969 Tel: 510-231-6190 3. McBeath Hardwoods -510-843-4390; 415-647-0782 4. White Bros. Lumber -510-261-1600 5. Woods Unlimited -510-895-5266 As far as I know and heard Spruce and Fir won''t hold up out there. It''s far too acidic.  

Check on a wood called Afromosia...same properties as Teak....same look....much cheaper!  

Geees!Here I was thinking about doing my mast and boom, also. It's 36 years old, an original Spartan on my Cape Dory 25'. I've done everything else on my boat, from top to bottom, and although I know it would be a lot of work, time and effort, I can't see how it would be all that expensive. On the other hand, maybe prices have gone up quite a bit since I last did a major project. Maybe I'll just get a 12VDC blender and start making some margaritas and think about this for a few years! Fair winds..... sailorsloopy  

Ken… When you finish your mast painting you’ll need something to make you chuckle…your search for teak reminded me of this story…A sailor in San Rafael called a local lumber company and asked if they carried teak wood. Oh si, senor, said the helpful clerk who answered the phone. We have lots of teak wood. Great, said the San Rafael sailor, I’ll be right down. When the sailor arrived at the lumberyard he found mahogany, rosewood and apitong but no teak. Frustrated he went to the front desk. Hi, he said, I called earlier and you said you had teak wood here but I can’t fine it. Oh pardon, senor… we have lots of teak wood. What kind do you want and how teak do you want it… one inch or two inch teak.  

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painting sailboat mast

He crossed the Atlantic solo in a boat he built himself

On a foggy morning in November 2023, five boats left Portugal and began racing across the Atlantic. Jack Johnson from Cypress, Calif., is on the left. (Courtesy of Sailing Fair Isle)

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He was 1,300 miles from land, and another storm was barreling in.

Wind at 30 knots and climbing.

Chop, steep and shallow.

Sheets of rain erased the sky.

A view of a white sailboat at sea, with a U.S. flag on a sail and red-and-black stripes at the stern, illuminated at night

Three weeks earlier, he had left the Canary Islands for Antigua, and now in the middle of the Atlantic, he was alone and scared and ready to give up. He had been fighting a series of squalls throughout the night.

Waves slammed into his small sailboat as it rose and fell over steep swells. The wind howled, and spray pelted him.

He tugged on a tether fastening him to a safety line to keep him from falling overboard and scrambled onto the deck to take down the sails.

And to think: Not so long ago, Jack Johnson and his wife, Deby, were racing their dinghy in Alamitos Bay, white sails coloring a blue sky. Orange County was their home, and they loved summertime regattas, late afternoons on the water after work, dinner with friends on the patio of their yacht club.

Now tossed about like a dog’s toy, he was off course and barely holding on.

Jack never imagined racing alone across the Atlantic, much less in a boat he built himself.

Yet sitting at his computer in October 2020, he typed his credit card number and agreed to a nonrefundable deposit toward a $10,000 kit of precut plywood that with enough screws, epoxy and fiberglass would one day become a 19½-foot sailboat.

The idea had seemed preposterous. COVID-19 was spreading, and everyone was in lockdown.

Jack was 47 at the time and married for only two years. He and Deby were building their future, and they had family to consider. Her mother had been diagnosed with Alzheimer’s. How could he step away from all of that?

A man in a red long-sleeved shirt and gray pants, left, and another in dark blue polo shirt and jeans, walk on a dock

Yet she had encouraged him, because that is what they did for each other: support the best version of themselves.

“That sounds right up your alley,” she said when he told her about a solo race with a DIY ethos and an ocean to cross.

At first, he had thought the race, called the Globe 5.80 Transat, a little crazy, which was why he shared a link with his friend Michael Moyer.

They had known each other since their days on the Newport Harbor High School sailing team. Moyer was always doing wild things. He and his wife, Anita, had sailed the world, true vagabonds of the sea.

Moyer liked the idea and signed up. Jack agreed to help him build the boat but soon realized he too wanted to join the race.

He had once thought the script of his life was written — go to school, get a job, settle in. Chained to routine. Unmarried and uninvolved, he saw himself dying alone. That was 10 years ago.

Deby had proved him wrong. Her love opened up possibilities he never imagined. He now had a partner, four stepdaughters and a Persian cat named Punkin.

If his world could change like that, then maybe sailing alone across the Atlantic in a boat the size of an F-150 pickup wasn’t impossible.

Even if it sounded crazy.

Johnson named his boat Right Now, after the Van Halen song. He liked the lyrics: “Don’t wanna wait ‘til tomorrow / Why put it off another day?” (Robert Edmonds / nrg-digital.co.uk)

A sailboat on the water, with clouds in a blue sky as the backdrop

Four wooden crates arrived from North Carolina, containing 700 pieces of marine-grade plywood cut, shaped and numbered for convenient assembly. The two men, who had leased a small industrial unit in a Santa Ana business park, spread the jigsaw puzzle out on the floor — “like one big Ikea project,” said Jack — and got busy.

Working on their individual boats, they laid out the ribs and bulkheads, then the stringers and planks. They fastened the pieces, and as construction progressed, the shop took on the smells of mahogany and fir, polyurethane paint and fiberglass.

Moyer took the day shift, and Jack, who kept his engineering job in Fullerton, came in at night, sleeping on his workbench, a box for a pillow. Mornings he raced home to make Deby a cup of coffee, a ritual from their dating days.

Once the hulls were covered with fiberglass, the two men began smoothing the surfaces for speed. Dressed in jumpsuits with hoodies, face masks and ear muffs, they burned through sheets of sandpaper. They felt as if they were living inside a snow globe.

When ordering and registering their electronics — GPS, collision avoidance systems — they had to name their boats. Moyer chose Sunbear, the smallest species of bear, fitting for the smallest species of ocean-class sailboat.

Jack picked Right Now, for his favorite Van Halen song .

Don’t wanna wait ’til tomorrow

Why put it off another day?

Shipping delays — masts from France, sails from Sri Lanka — delayed their start for nearly two years. In October 2023, Jack and Moyer packed their boats in a shipping container and flew to Lagos, in southern Portugal.

Deby soon joined them, and she and Jack began each morning with pasteis de nata at a bakery before he left for the boatyard to finish rigging.

The fleet leaves Lanzarote, the easternmost of the Canary Islands, as the boats race to Antigua in the eastern Caribbean. (Robert Edmonds / nrg-digital.co.uk)

On race day — Nov. 11 — he rose at 4 a.m., left her sleeping and quietly began taking supplies down to the boat.

Ahead of him lay the first leg of a race that would take him and four other boats to the Canary Islands, a relatively safe qualifier of 650 miles before they undertook the 3,200-mile crossing of the Atlantic for Antigua in the eastern Caribbean.

The race was initially conceived in 1977 as a “poor man’s Transatlantic.” At the time, offshore sailboat racing was dominated by wealthy sailors and million-dollar yachts. To buck the trend, organizers designed a safe, uniform and inexpensive boat that competitors could build by themselves.

Although there was no prize, Jack was looking forward to seeing what he was capable of and to prove wrong those who said he was foolhardy or nuts.

Yet when he was done loading the boat, he came back to bed as if trying to hold off the inevitable. All that he had worked for was now happening, and as hardened as he was to the prospect of being alone, he realized how un-alone he actually was.

For the last three years, Deby, his stepdaughters and the members at the club had come together to help him achieve this goal. When the time came to say goodbye to her, he cried “like a 6-year-old with a skinned knee.”

Each boat was equipped with a special tracking device that relied on a GPS satellite network. In this video, Jack Johnson’s boat is colored bright green; Michael Moyer’s boat is blue. The gray boat indicates the winning boat in the 2021 race. Rather than heading west from the Canary Islands, the sailors followed the coast of Africa south in search of the trade winds that eventually sent them on their westerly course. (Courtesy of YB Tracking)

He hugged and kissed Deby at the dock one last time. She’d be flying back to California in a couple of days. Wiping away his tears, he started powering Right Now to the starting line. A low fog blanketed the mouth of the harbor.

Ahead of him was Sunbear with its bright yellow hull. He and Moyer had competed against each other in high school, and Moyer had always won.

Today they were up against three other boats. Their finish line for the first leg was Lanzarote, the easternmost of the Canary Islands.

With the wind at their backs, the fleet made good progress despite choppy seas off Gibraltar. They had heard about orcas sinking boats in this region of the Atlantic, and Moyer even brought window cleaner, figuring the ammonia would drive them away.

Jack fell in sync with the rhythm of the days at sea.

Catnapping through the night, he rose at first light. Breakfast was leftovers from dinner. He studied charts and weather and got to work trying to coax as much speed from his boat as possible.

While he had sailed long distances before, never had he done it alone or in a boat that he built himself. He hoped experience would see him through, but he also knew, as the adage goes: Life tests you first, then provides the lessons.

Photographs and compass keychain are pinned to a map

1. On the wall of their townhome in Cypress, Deby Johnson hung a map of the world pinned with mementos of husband Jack’s voyage. 2. Jack Johnson had once thought the script of his life was written — until he met his wife, Deby, who made it possible for him to pursue his dream of racing across the Atlantic. (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

To break the monotony, he’d listen to podcasts. He’d munch on a tortilla smeared with peanut butter and honey, and at the end of the day, treat himself to a glass of rum and keep a promise he’d made to Deby.

She asked him to take a picture of every sunset, and his phone filled with colors of the western sky, laced with clouds and distant storms.

After less than a week, the fleet arrived at the aptly named Marina Rubicon, a popular launching point for Atlantic sailors. Jack was first, and Moyer, who finished second to last, knew he had underestimated the competition.

After a 10-day layover, the boats left for the Caribbean. One sailor had dropped out, leaving just four boats plowing down the coast of Africa — Morocco, Western Sahara, Mauritania — in search of the trade winds.

Three days out, Jack celebrated his 51st birthday by opening Deby’s present that he had stowed on board: a pack of Nutter Butter cookies and a flash drive of photos and a video she had made.

“I am so amazed at all that you have accomplished!” she wrote in her card.

The days were bright and sun-soaked. Nights were as dark as the inside of a glove. Squalls blew in from the Sahara; the rainwater, brown with desert dust, served for showering and washing clothes.

After a week — 70 miles north of the Cape Verde Islands — the sailors hit the trade winds and began charting west.

On Dec. 11 — halfway to Antigua and in first place by almost 100 miles — Jack celebrated, opening Deby’s second gift: a small bottle of Hendrick’s gin and the requisite accompaniment of tonic.

“You are my sunshine and my rock,” she wrote in this card. “You make me smile and keep me sane.”

Longing to hear her voice, he picked up the satellite phone. It would be morning in California, and she’d be home getting ready for work.

“Hello,” she said, shocked to hear his voice. Was everything OK?

He reassured her.

Was calling breaking the rules?

A pair of hands holding a white notecard with a handwritten message

They’d be all right, he said, so long as they didn’t talk about the race or the weather.

She relaxed, and they took a moment to catch up. The girls were doing well, and Deby had been making the long drive to Lake Havasu alone to visit and check in on her parents. He asked whether she got the card that he had buried in the second drawer of her dresser. It was his halfway gift. She did.

“Hurrying to see you,” he had written.

Like the Pacific Ocean, the Atlantic is governed by the jet stream, which, ever shifting, had altered its course, pushing the trade winds closer to the equator. That dynamic — along with the overheated water of the Atlantic — created for the sailors a patch of ocean riven by errant low-pressure fronts and violent storms like the one Jack was fighting three days later.

With the sails down, waves slamming against the hull, he scrambled onto the deck to set a sea anchor, a small device tossed overboard that would help keep the boat from rolling and swamping. But the knot he tied slipped, and the anchor was lost.

Cursing himself, he climbed back in the cockpit and stayed on the tiller, doing his best to maneuver through the storm with its 40-mph winds. The storms the night before — and now this — had taken their toll.

“… chaos, absolute chaos … tired and wet and sick of being here and sick of sailing and just not having a great time...,” he recorded in a voice-to-text log.

Eventually, the sky began to lighten. He had gotten through the worst of it. The winds were tapering.

Jack raised his sails, turned on the autopilot and tried to sleep. He had a story to tell Deby, for sure, but he’d downplay it so as to not worry her, and he’d get back on track with those sunset shots.

The next day, he laid his gear in the sun to dry, opened up the cabin and surveyed the boat for damage. A weld in the rigging had cracked but was manageable.

A boat with red-and-black sails on the water

He was pleased with how the boat had held up. In offshore racing, boats sink. Sailors fall overboard. Masts snap, and equipment breaks, and in this part of the Atlantic, rescue can take days.

Most of all, Jack was frustrated and worried that he was no longer competitive with the other sailors and well behind Moyer.

Then the ocean became as still as glass. The windless days were hot, and nights brought rain. For all his preparations, Jack never anticipated being bored. Nothing plus nothing equaled nothing. He slept more than ever.

“… I’m not thinking straight and I’m not sailing fast and I can’t bring myself to care … I’m sick of it. I just want to get home and kiss Deby and love her and not leave her for a while,” he recorded.

Three days before Christmas, he encountered a whale almost as big as his boat. Relieved it wasn’t an orca, he climbed up on the deck to take a picture. The lugubrious creature surfaced next to the boat, cut across the bow, dived, then reemerged.

“… hasn’t shown any real aggression but I imagine they don’t until they do,” Jack observed.

Whenever he went below or got lost in a task, he’d look up and there it still was. He thought about jumping in. What would it be like to swim beside a whale? After five hours, it was gone.

The next night, more rain fell. As he was putting on his foul-weather gear, a wave hit the boat, and he fell headfirst into a grab bar mounted in the ceiling.

Soon, the world was spinning around him. Dizzy and fatigued after 28 days at sea, he made a special point of making sure he was clipped securely onto the safety line whenever he went on deck.

With no wind, he drifted along, until almost a week later, his sails gently filled, and he started to fly. The sea was flat, and as night fell, the wind didn’t let up. Antigua lay over the horizon.

At dawn, Jack crossed the finish line in first place. He had sailed 3,186 miles in 33 days, 21 hours, 2 minutes.

He called Deby, and then the clubhouse on Alamitos Bay where his friends had gathered. The building echoed with their cheers.

A person in dark clothing stands on a dock facing a man on a boat popping open a bottle of champagne

When Moyer arrived 24 hours later in second place, Jack greeted him at the dock with handshake, a hug and a rum and Coke.

The final celebration in Antigua was anticlimactic, dinner at a tapas restaurant before the sailors left for home. Jack has been told there is a trophy but hasn’t seen it.

The wind is typically light in Alamitos Bay, where every Thursday evening, Jack and Deby race their small dinghy. He still rises early each morning to brew her coffee before work and has been joining her on the long drive to Lake Havasu to visit her parents.

For nearly four years, he had been focused on crossing the Atlantic in the boat built with his own hands, and he’s now wondering if it’s time to push himself in a new direction, away from sailing perhaps, like into a dance class. The idea intrigues and terrifies him. He admits to being a poor dancer, but with Deby’s help, he might have a chance.

“So much is easy for so many of us,” he said. “If we want something, we can go out and get it. We are not challenged in our daily life to do things that are difficult, and as a result, the smallest things knock us off balance.”

Still he’s trying to decide whether to continue with the race when the fleet leaves Antigua for Panama, then Tahiti and around the world next year. He wouldn’t have Moyer — who recently sold Sunbear — joining him, and as a measure of his own ambivalence, he’s put Right Now up for sale or charter.

He doubts anyone will be interested though, and that would be just fine.

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painting sailboat mast

Thomas Curwen is staff writer for the Los Angeles Times, specializing in long-form narratives, and was a Pulitzer Prize finalist in 2008 for feature writing.

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Repainting mast and boom

  • Thread starter Dalliance
  • Start date Mar 18, 2008
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The spars on my 1982 Hunter 30 were originally painted white by the manufacturer. Over the years the P.O. added a couple additional coats and last summer all three, but mostly what remained of the 26 year old original coat, started peeling badly - exposing bare aluminum. At haul out last fall I unstepped the mast with the intention of stripping and repainting it myself this spring. Then I did the research I should have done first and realized it's a bigger job than I will have time to take on myself this year, so I got a cost estimate for the work today from Lakeshore Marine. They were recommended by the yacht yard. It's good I was sitting down at the time because it's a bit more than I expected. $4,616.17 to be exact. They propose to chemically strip, etch, prime and paint the 40 foot mast, boom & spreaders with Awlgrip. The breakdown is $3,570 for 42 hours labor @$85/hour, $959.79 for supplies & materials, and $86.38 tax. At that price, it won't happen this year. Or next. Oh well, it's a good time to give the standing rigging a good inspection anyway. So, that said, I have three questions for everyone: First, does this sound like a reasonable, fair price for this work? Second, is Awlgrip the right choice or is it overkill for this job? And third, can any of you recommend someone less expensive in the Chicago area?  


You can probably get it anodized for less than that.  

Rich (P303)

Rich (P303)

sounds about right... for a boatyard... your getting screwed @ 85 an hour. Somebody will go out there and tell the High School kids what to do... until it's time for the awlgrip. I would go the anodized route... if you can find someone that can handle that length. Sounds like a project.  

Big Job James - Thats about right. It took me about 4 weekends to do the job myself not counting the evenings I put in disassembling and reassembling my boom in the basement over the winter. Sanding and paintings is actually the easy part.....disassembling and reassembly takes a lot of work and detail. I used imron which is similar to Awlgrip - but you will find many opinions on that (both 2-part types coatings). I also replaced all the wiring and hardware which added extra time to the project so perhaps you can do it in less time. I am not familiar with anodizing as mentioned here. My recco if your going to use paint and DIY - go for a quality 2-part paint and just roll-n-tip it on. You will give up some of the shine but it will be minimal. Its a mast / boom - not a hull where you would really want a wet-finish shine. Good luck - Rob  

Bill Coxe

Mast/boom maintenance When the boom on my O28 started exhibiting signs of deterioration, I removed it, took it home, wirebrushed the daylights out of it after removing as many fixtures as I could, wiped it down with acetone and hit it with an aluminum outdrive spray primer paint, then gave it two coats of off-white rustoleum. I don't remember the total cost, but it held up for at least the three years until I sold it. FWIW, Bill Coxe, O40 Kukulcán, New Bern, NC  

New Mast? I did mine last year when I had the rigging replaced. Decided to do it myself after an estimate similar to yours. Did it in 3 weekends but it was a LOT of work. Halfway through the job my rigger suggested that it would cost about the same to replace with a new mast and I would end up with a new spar. I didn't check on price but he said he has replaced several for about the same price (or even less ) than having the yard do the painting. Might be worth a check. Down time would probably be a factor.  

Ed Schenck

Joseph Shirley

I did my mast last year I had to unstep my mast to truck my boat back from Mexico and thought it was a good time to redo the paint job on the mast since it hadn't been done in 10 years. The boat yard at that time had a rate of $65/hr and I winced at their estimate. Fortunately for me they were extremely busy and their mast paint shed was stuffed with stuff so they suggested that I do all the prep work which I did. They ended up just spraying the mast with Sterling (similar to Awlgrip) and it only cost a few hundred dollars. My problem was that they didn't finish there part of the deal for almost 3 months which cost me most of the sailing season. I was unhappy at the time but feel a little better about it now that some time has passed and it still looks good. See if they will let you do the prep. A few days, A couple of gallons of paint remover, some sandpaper, some tarps, and a few beers and sandwiches for some help, could save you a bundle.  

You can save a lot if ... you do it yourself. Having the time and the place to do it is a big factor, though, and you will have to pay for those commodities if you don't have them. I'm assuming that transporting a 40' mast to your basement is a problem. When I did the job, I was able to get our 33' mast home to do the job and it took at least the 42 hours that they quote; but, I expect that they could be much more efficient with their time. What if you took the boom and the spreaders home and did them yourself ... that could save something. I guess I would start out by asking a lot of questions. Will they let you remove all the hardware and sand (I sanded rather stripped the old paint off)the spars? Maybe you can cut down on the hourly rate if you can do the prep work. Like somebody said, much of the work will take no skill so maybe there could be some negotiation on that end of the work. Having said that ... are they removing all the hardware rather than painting around it? I would clarify that. There were some parts that were rivited on to the mast and boom with some pretty substantial stainless steel rivits and I really didn't want to mess with that so I took the short cut and worked around those few parts (the spreader ears and the vang attachment). I would expect that they would be prepared to remove them but I would ask the question just the same. Will they fix the hours or is it just an estimate? They could easily spend more hours doing this job, especially if they use cheap, inefficient labor for the prep work. You don't want to be paying $85 per hour when they go over the hours budgeted because the were using some kids that weren't all that efficient. You want to do this with a 2-part primer and 2-part surface paint. I don't know if Awlgrip is the premier product or not. I used Interlux Perfection and love the result. The price for supplies seems way too high. The products are expensive but you don't need that much. You won't need even a quart of the etching primer so that should cost less than $50. You need to spend about $200 for the 2-part primer and surface. I think I got a quart of primer and 2 quarts of Perfection. I had plenty of primer left after 2 coats and I put on at least 4 coats of the surface just to use it up. My memory is a little fuzzy because I bought a quart of each to do the boom one year and it was good for the next year when doing the mast, except that I had to buy another quart of Perfection to finish the mast at about $65 per quart. Unless you are buying other parts or supplies, $900 for paint is about 3 times too much. What else do they need to provide? With your 40' stick, and the boom, I would think that you could get multiple coats of the final product with 2 to 3 quarts tops. I bet you would need only 1 quart of the 2-part primer and 1 quart of the etching primer. I would ask those questions and be armed with the price per quart from any retailer. I WOULD encourage you to find a way to get this job done. The improvement is really noticeable and you will be happy. Failing to get the price down, maybe new spars are a better alternative!  

Thanks everyone. This is real good input from a lot of experienced people. I think my next step will be to ask a lot of questions about what I would really be getting for this price and then see were negotiation gets me. It's really helpfull to see your responses before I do that. You've also pointed out several options I had not thought of.  

Warren Milberg

Warren Milberg

A few years ago, I watched the pro's in our yard here on the Chesapeake take a huge mast down off of a Hans Christian. Not sure how long it was, but it looked like a telephone pole when they laid it out on horses near my slip. Since I had to walk by it every time I sailed, I watched the work and progess. They removed all the hardware (lots of it...)and the old paint, then prepped the surface (not sure of the method), then Algripped it in ivory. It looked spectacular. Whenever I see a job like this, I always ask myself if I could (1) do it myself and (2) if so, could I replicate the results. Both answers were clearly "no." I don't know what that job cost, but am sure it was a bundle. But it sure was worth it to whoever the owner was.  


not sure why I am replying Scotty, engage the safety shield. Aye, Captain. I used to anodize aluminum tanks. We used an acid that ate into the metal. Two coatings did the trick. You will have to find a place in Chicago that does it to find out what type of acid it was. Believe me, anodizing is a simple job. Why bother? A. You are on a fresh water lake. B. The mast was painted once before and probably still has paint on it. C. Why not lightly sand it and repaint it? D. Lightly sanding will most likely take any anodizing off. Maybe. So if it does, you should only have to do those areas. I'd just wash it and repaint it. You might want to call a few places that powder coat stuff and ask them if they could do a 40' pole or whatever the length is. Or, if you are handy, you could buy the stuff and do it yourself. However, I'd go with two part paint and roll and tip it.  

Thanks again - Letterman (and others), anodizing does intrigue me. I like the idea of letting aluminum look like what it is. I was actually hoping to find that the mast was originally anodized and the PO had just painted over it. That was not the case. Hunter confirmed that the mast was orignially painted by the spar manufacturer and was not anodized. Since Dalliance is one of the "Cherubini Hunters" designed by John Cherubini and thought of so fondly by many Hunter owners, I felt that I should stay true to the designer's intent and repaint the mast. That I felt that way is no doubt due to my also being a designer. Though of buildings, not boats. Given the first cost estimate and my limited time available this spring, the light sanding and Rustoleum route is tempting, but I think it would be a short term fix at best since it appears that most of the paint that is failing is the orignal manfacutrer's paint under the others. If the job is really done right, my gut instinct is that the stripping and prep work represents about 2/3 of the project cost and the net difference between anodizing and painting could be nominal. However, if I find that anodizing can really save me money, then forget the designer, I'll have to seriously consider it... And that makes me sound like one of my clients.  

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  1. Painting an aluminum mast

    After a rough surface prep you will want to use Alumiprep (acid etch/cleaner) follow directions for dilution, let dwell for 5 minutes or so and rinse with plenty of fresh water. Then you will want to make sure the surface is dry and the temperature is over 70 degrees at min., hotter is much better, and then coat with Alodine.

  2. Tips on Painting Your Peeling Mast

    Sand with 80 grit paper to achieve a smooth but "toothy" taper from the good paint to the damaged area. Wipe with an alcohol or acetone and a clean cotton cloth. The next step is to etch prime the surface and follow up with a two part epoxy primer or single part primer depending on what type of top coat is being used.

  3. Painting an Old Aluminum Mast

    Jay Tracy. Mar 17, 2004. #5. Painting an old alum. mast. We repainted our alum. mast but used a different approach as suggested by a rigger. He suggested we wet sand the mast, wash it off, treat it with alum. prepainting solution and paint it with Krylon clear enamel.

  4. Mast painting

    I did the mast on my 26 footer thirty years ago. Used two-part epoxy paint (Awlgrip). Removed all the mast hardware, sanded it down to bare metal, used the proper etcher and primers, and applied a few coats of paint. Sold the boat a few years later, then saw it about 20 years later and the mast looked great. Anything less than properly applied ...

  5. Painting Mast

    1) Set your mast up with a pivot each end so you can easily rotate it as you go. 2) Start painting at the mast head and work your way down. Birds will bear witness to your lousy painting technique but by the time you approach the spreader mounts, you'll have it down and paint like Picasso . . . Wait.

  6. Painting the mast

    Did my 44 year old boat mast 17 years ago. The stainless halyards over the years wore through the anodized finish. I did a full strip down of hardware, wiring harness inside of the mast and paint outside. New paint has held up very well. I had to go to the top this year to replace the wind vane.

  7. Stepping a Sailboat Mast, Painting topsides & Rudder Repairs (Ep.17)

    There's a lot going on in this video as we try to get the boat ready for launch. We repaint the topsides after our our last coat of paint went terribly wrong...

  8. can i paint my mast?

    If it was my 16' boat, I'd either do the mast right or not do it. I say that because it's aluminum, and painting aluminum is more difficult to paint properly as compared to wood, steel, or fiberglass. Paint doesn't like to stick to it unless the surface has been properly prepared. That means, as others have suggested, properly abrading it.

  9. painting aluminum masts

    Both were actually designed for metal application so the mast makes for a preferred application from manufacturer's point of view. Glass comes close second in my experience. Held up really well over 5 years. Sprayed the boat and rolled the masts. Installed hardware after painting, Used Tuffgell on screws. PeterP

  10. Aluminium Mast re-painting or ?

    The paint looks nice, but is a pain. Our last boat (I made the rig) and didn't paint it. Had that boat ~15 yrs. and never regretted not painting it. It was easy to clean w/white vinegar (if needed). Current boat is painted and is needing attention. Repainted the mizzen boom years ago and still looks good, but if it didn't have paint already ...

  11. Painting my Mast

    Apr 5, 2009. 2,843. Catalina '88 C30 tr/bs Oak Harbor, WA. Mar 19, 2015. #4. I repainted my 1988 C30's mast and boom two years ago. The old paint was chalking badly so I sanded it all off to bare aluminum. According to Interlux, the key to painting aluminum is to get it primed within 1 hour of sanding.

  12. Painting an aluminum spar

    We were advised to coat the mast as thinly as would provide coverage since it was a fairly flexible rig and a thick coat of paint might tend to crack. We sprayed with a borrowed HVLP setup with a pressurepot gun (similar to what bathtub refinishers use) I saw the boat last year, more than 10 years after the job and the mast still looked pretty ...

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  15. Painting the Mast

    I am about to embark on the final phase of the rehab project: painting the mast and boom. I have quite a bit of oxidation on the aluminum - looks like rust. There is a bit of pitting here and there, also. I have the primer and the Brightside paint but what else do I need to do? I only want...

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  17. Alinghi Red Bull Racing suffer catastrophic mast failure

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  18. Mast Painting

    The masts were previously painted but could use a repaint, no pealing as of yet on the masts but the paint is still looking shabby and the masts are going to be off the boat anyway. ... you put into the hardware and mast. If you have a winch on you mast, you will definitely want to isolate it from the mast with a pad of some sorts. Your boat ...

  19. paint mast

    Oct 1, 2011. #5. guys - i painted my mast several years ago and it was a much bigger job than anticipated; but very well worth the effort and the painted mast / boom dramatically increased the overall look of my boat. Its all in the prep and I would recommend removing all hardware and do it right and do it once.

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  21. Mast Painting

    Mast Painting. I just got an estimate from the yard for painting the mast and boom it looks chipped and not very seamanlike at all. does 2500.00 seem like a bunch of money it''s only a thirty foot boat to break it down it goes like this lift time 150.00 labor 165.00 r&r standing rigging 220.00 prep and paint mast and boom 1485.00 plus 400.00 ...

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  23. Repainting mast and boom

    It's good I was sitting down at the time because it's a bit more than I expected. $4,616.17 to be exact. They propose to chemically strip, etch, prime and paint the 40 foot mast, boom & spreaders with Awlgrip. The breakdown is $3,570 for 42 hours labor @$85/hour, $959.79 for supplies & materials, and $86.38 tax.