sailboat rigging swage

Swageless Mechanical Fittings or Swage Terminals…

…Which do you prefer?

When talking about wire standing rigging for sailboats, there are two primary ways to secure a fitting to the end of the cable, the swage fitting and the mechanical fitting. One requires a specialized, expensive machine (pictured below) that is used to essentially squeeze or hammer the fitting onto the wire, this is called the swage fitting. The other simply requires the use of some wrenches (a vise is a great tool here too), some thread locker, a bit of patience, and some experience wouldn’t hurt either ;0). The latter is referred to as the mechanical or swageless fitting.

SWAGE FITTINGS:

Yes, there a few other types of swaging techniques which we might save for another time. One of which we commonly refer to as the “Nico Press”, a generic term. This is an entirely different ‘box of frogs’ all together. If you are interested read more on that here , written by our friends at Sailing Services .

[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLM-crQeN-A&w=560&h=315]

SWAGELESS (MECHANICAL) FITTINGS:

Our favorite high quality mechanical or swageless terminal manufacturers are: Hayn Hi-mod  and  Stalok . Let us not forget Noresman (Navtec), one of the more popular fitting manufacturers on the market up until recently, as they have since shut down production. A mechanical fitting is typically a three part fitting  (sometimes four) . This type of fitting does take a bit longer to execute than the swage fitting, even by the most experienced of rigging technicians. The real bonus here is it does not require a ridiculously expensive machine. Which makes it a very appealing product for the DIY project.

.[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QTGB_kfTxUg&w=560&h=315]

PROS AND CONS:

There does appear to be some controversy about which type of fitting is better, so I’ll try to clear things up a bit. Let’s take a moment to talk about the pros and cons regarding these two styles of wire terminals. Swage fittings require one of these expensive machines, so you will likely have to pay someone to do it for you. Whereas Mechanical fittings can be the perfect solution for the DIY sailor. Swage fittings are substantially less expensive than mechanical fittings. For example, a swage stud for 1/4″ wire with 1/2″ thread retails for around $25 and the comparable mechanical fitting retails around $75. Multiply that times the amount of fittings you’ll need and it can make quite a difference in price when replacing an entire rigging set.

Having said all of that, a properly made swage fitting will last about 7-20 years or roughly 25,000 nautical miles, depending on geographical region and use before replacement is recommended. Regular inspection , regardless of fitting choice, is always recommended with service intervals around every 3-5 years.

We, at TRC, recommend using swage fittings over mechanical fittings when the stay is rigged with a furler, i.e. forestay.

There are also hybrid sets made, utilizing both types of fittings, with Swage fittings at the top of the stay and mechanical fittings at the bottom. This is the meet in the middle solution when price becomes a factor. Also this method is commonly practiced when building new masts.

TRC has had great success with the longevity of our swage fittings over the years {knocking on wood}. I’d say this is attributed to the use of high quality fittings, wire, the right machines, as well as proper execution. We end up selling mostly complete rigging sets using swage fittings. When discussing options with our customers we can really only justify the additional cost of mechanical fittings when the boat is going to endeavor on high mileage journeys. This way the wire can be replaced, the fittings inspected, and re-used with new cones (wedges). One of the other big benefits of mechanical fittings is/was at sea repairs. As the sailor could use wrenches and some Loctite to terminate a new cable at sea if needed, but not without the purchase of some good quality wire cutters (not cheap). With developments in synthetics we think that this problem can be much easier overcome with the use of Dyneema or Vectran . We offer a TRC Spare Stay Kit specifically for this purpose…no tools required!

Either fitting, if not made properly, will have issues and can cause failures. Conversely, when done properly, either of these fittings will provide the boat and its crew with many years of trouble free service. With either fitting, given that they were executed properly, age, geographical location, and wear are the biggest enemies for standing rigging longevity.

RIGGERS TIPS FOR MAKING UP SWAGELESS TERMINALS :  

First, when choosing a mechanical fitting ensure that it is for the correct wire type being used, i.e. 1×19 , 7×19 , and  dyform/compact strand .  you’ll need to disassemble the mechanical fitting (with sta lok you can leave the former inside of the fitting) and then read the directions which should be included (or can be found online). the general gist for any mechanical fitting (regardless of manufacturer) goes as follows: start with a nicely cut end of wire. then the socket portion of the fitting gets slipped onto the wire..

Next, the end of the wire must be unlaid evenly (the tricky part), so that the core strands are exposed and the cover strands are evenly splayed open.

Once that is done, the cone (or wedge piece) is pushed onto the core strands. with the outer wires surrounding the cone evenly, work the socket back up to the end of the wire, and re-lay the cover strands onto the core. do this until the outside strands protrude from the end of the socket evenly and parallel (as pictured below), and the socket cannot slide up any further.,  this is all done while keeping the cone (or wedge) appropriately submerged below the end of the cut wire by the recommended amount. the amount of core stick out varies by fitting manufacturer, so read the directions and follow the guidelines closely. the outer wires cannot be flared out (see diagram 2) and must be parralel or curved-in slightly. you will not be able to assemble the fitting properly (or at all) if you don’t get this step right. now, (unless using a hi-mod fitting for which you will need to rig their “crown ring” in place) you are ready for the fitting to be screwed together and to form the wire. to do this we use loctite primer and red loctite to help lubricate things as shown in the video above., warning: stainless on stainless will gall (or cold weld) with too much friction and you’ll have a fitting that can’t be screwed-on or off. , once screwed down completely we recommend that the fitting be unscrewed again before the loctite activates (so hurry depending on temp) and checked for proper forming of the cover (outside) strands. lastly, if all looks to be fine, we coat the threads with more red loctite and then screw it back together tight some manufacturers recommend the use of sealants along with loctite into the fitting before the final assembly to mitigate water intrusion and to help secure things. recently it seems that most manufacturers are getting away from this, perhaps because of oxygen deprivation causing corrosion. so again, please follow the instructions and guidelines that come with the fittings that you have., …so there it is in a nutshell. as i always say, seek the council of your local rigger for product specific information as well as any tips and tricks so that you have it right., thanks for the read and leave us your comments below ., similar posts, the end is near….

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11 Comments

This is not a comment but rather a product request. I need 4 U-shaped toggle jaws which are part of the standing rigging on my 30′ Hunter sloop. They are 2 1/4″ overall length by 1″ wide. They hold a 1/2″ diameter by 1″ slug at the top of solid threaded rigging. Any direction you can give would be appreciated. Bob Carr [email protected]

Thanks for the question. I think I know what you are after, but please email us an image at [email protected] . We can likely decipher your needed item once you send us a pic to confirm.

Cheers, ~T.R.C.

Thanks for your directions and tips on mechanical fittings. I have to change out the two forward port and starboard standing rigging because of on the port side of the mast below the shroud is pulling out. I will drill new holes, compression fitting inside with a lap patch over the outside of the mast. Once that is done will install one ear on each side to take the pin for the new Hi-Mod Mechanical fittings. I do hope I measure correctly as where I will be doing this besides up the mast is in a place with not many parts so taking it all with me in the next week.

I will try my best to take photo but I am doing all this single handed so may not take as many as I should.

I used a lot of Stalok fittings for a (not boat-related) job, and although they are straight-forward I found them rather tedious to make-up. For that reason alone I chose to try Hayn Hi-MOD for my boat, and ohmigosh they are fast and easy compared to the Stayloks! I started off with one: had a kinked shroud – it was easy to run a new shroud with a swaged stemball fitting and put the Hayn fitting on the bottom. Great! My boat was missing two shrouds so I did two more – easy peasy!! Next time I renew the shrouds I’ll do them all!!!

Fast forward a few thousand very stormy miles later (why me??): I pulled the mast and couldn’t remove those three shrouds because the crown rings and wires were STUCK inside the fitting housing. I tried all sorts of penetrating oils, heat, banging, LOTS of heat … and by then the fittings and wire were so abused they were no longer seaworthy so I let everybody (riggers included) try anything they wanted. The boat needs all new shrouds before I go offshore again and when I cut those fittings off I’m going to send them to Hayn and ask for a refund. :-(

It would have been interesting to have had a Staylok fitting or two on the boat for comparison. I really like the Hayn Hi-MOD fittings, but can’t recommend them for blue water (ab)use – I’ll stick with swaged fittings. Plus, with the advancements and reliability of synthetic rigging that’s a MUCH better way to go for emergency repairs and having spare shrouds aboard. And lookie! Someone has already invented a ready-make spare stay kit!! Brilliant. :-)

Very interesting story about those crown rings. To be honest we haven’t had to take many apart as they are relatively new to the US market still. Well about 10 years now (If I really think on it), man time flies. Thanks for the heads up though. I will keep an eye out next time we take one apart.

Priscilla I would like to send you one of our shirts if you like. What Size are you and what is your shipping address?

…and let us know if you need one of our spare stay kits or more information on them.

Serious bummer about the Hi-MODs, one would be ho-hum, but all three?! All are on 3/8″ upper spreader shrouds (dbl spreader cutter rig), two port one stbd, five or six years old (yeah where does the time go?), installed at different times on wires from different rigging companies. Not sure when I’ll pull the mast again, hopefully within a year. I want so much to cut one in half to look, but Hayn needs to figure out the problem and fix it so (unless they say otherwise) I’ll send them all three. You read it here first so of course I’ll keep TRC posted … and I won’t forget, women never forget anything, and don’t argue about that because we are always right. :-D

Ooh, a shirt! I’ll proudly be a walking billboard for TRC – this is a very impressive web site, educational, good annotated pictures – a true (sailing) community service. I’ll wear your shirt to our boat show next month – the local riggers will find out I’m cheating on them. hahaha!

..Can’t wait until everybody sees your new shirt :-0

Great tips! Thank you. I always learn lots when I read your posts. :)

Thanks Viki. I was wondering how you fared down there through that rough weather? Is everyone safe?

Having a few issues with big earthquakes at the moment… but we are ok :)

Good to hear. I heard that it was very close to where sent those shirts! ~T.R.C.

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• Lines & Rigging
• Sailboat Standing Rigging

Swage Terminals

Johnson Marine Stanchion Terminal with Solid Button 1/4

Johnson Marine Stanchion Terminal with Solid Button 1/8

Johnson Marine Stanchion Terminal with Solid Button 3/16

Johnson Marine Stanchion Terminal with Solid Button 5/32

Johnson Marine Stanchion Terminal 1/8

Swaging & Rigging Services

We not only connect all of our fittings on to the wire rope for you but we will also special order any other fitting we may not have in stock to custom make exactly what you want!

Swaging Labor Charges Machine swage terminals

Larger sizes available, please call for quotes.

Swaging of all machine swage terminals is done with a hydraulic-compression swaging machine which compresses the fitting on all sides at once.  This method is far superior to roller swaging machines that are commonly used.   You will not get a "banana" swage!   NOTE: Custom swaging is NOT returnable.  We'll work with you to assure what you order is exactly what you want and need the first time.

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Inspecting Your Boat's Mast and Rigging

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Keep your sailboat in top shape with this useful advice on inspecting your boat's mast and rigging.

Surveying Your Rig

What to look for and why.

Whenever a mast tumbles overboard, the two seemingly obvious offenders are the mast itself — the aluminum extrusion — and the wire stays and shrouds that support the mast. In practice however, these are rarely the culprits. The offenders, in most cases, are the tangs, turnbuckles, and chainplates and the smaller, but no less significant, screws, bolts, terminal fittings, clevis and cotter pins that hold everything together. These can be inspected in a couple hours or less. All you need for an inspection is a magnifying lens, a mirror, some toilet paper, your fingernails, a boatswain's chair, and a pair of reasonably good eyes.

Download the Rigging Checklist in PDF format.

Whenever you inspect a fitting, look for obvious problems like rust and distortion and use the magnifying glass to find smaller cracks. Rust, especially rust that you can feel, and even slight distortions or cracks should be considered serious, and the component replaced. Use your fingernails to feel for cracks and check the thinnest part of the fittings extra carefully, as this is where failure is most likely to occur. If a fitting has been painted (a bad idea), strip off the paint.

Chainplates

Turnbuckles and chainplates must be angled so that loads are in a direct line with stays and shrouds. Toggles, which act like universal joints to allow movement in all directions, should be used with turnbuckles but they cannot be relied on to compensate for a misaligned chainplate. A chainplate that is not aligned has a tendency to work until it eventually breaks. Besides eyeballing the shroud/chainplate alignment, misalignment is sometimes indicated by damage to the surrounding gelcoat.

Chainplates can corrode and fail either above, within, or below the deck. Corrosion at the chainplate above may have been only detected by removing the toggles to inspect around the eye.

The chainplate above failed within the deck, where salt water had leaked down and initiated crevice corrosion where hidden from view.

If chainplates are bolted to a bulkhead, as is often the case, inspect the bulkhead for signs of weakness — discoloration, delamination, and rot. Chainplates are highly stressed, and will work and cause leaks where they come through the deck. Water can then enter the bulkhead and eventually cause it to rot. Probably the best, although maybe not the prettiest, place to secure a chainplate is to the outside of the hull. Chainplates that are only bolted to flanges under the deck, and are not secured to a structural member down below, are the least desirable installation.

Turnbuckles

Open turnbuckles are easier to inspect and don't retain moisture, which encourages corrosion. Closed turnbuckles retain moisture in the barrel and have of a tendency to freeze up, but they also are better at retaining lubricant.

Fatigue and crevice corrosion broke this pair of threaded terminal fittings along the crevice between the lock nut and the turnbuckle body, illustrating why disassembly of the turnbuckle is necessary to inspect hidden trouble spots most likely to fail.

Turnbuckles should be wiped clean and lubricated at least once a year; more often if they are open or are adjusted frequently.

Teflon is better for lubricating turnbuckles than oil or grease because it doesn't hold grit that abrades the threads. Oil or grease, however, are certainly better than nothing.

Most turnbuckles are tightened by turning the shank or barrel clockwise. Incidentally, you should never stress your rig by over-tightening the turnbuckles. If the turnbuckle squeaks stop tightening — this is a sign of over-tightening and poor lubrication.

If you boat has open turnbuckles, be sure to leave at least 3/4" of thread visible in the barrel and replace the old cotter pins. A cotter pin should be large enough to fit snugly into the hole and long enough to be bent half way back around. Rigging tape should then be wrapped around the pin to protect your sails, fingers, toes, etc.

Many closed turnbuckles can't be cottered and rely instead on locknuts. Experts warn that over-tightening the locknuts places too much stress on the threads.

Terminal Fittings

Most sailboats rely on swage fittings at the terminals, but these fittings are not necessarily the most reliable, especially in warmer climates where they have a history of failure. Swage fittings are made by compressing a tube onto the wire under great pressure, a process that must be done exactly right to assure a strong bond. If the swage has to be pressed several times (a bad practice) before the wire is secure, there is an increased chance that the swage has been weakened and could crack.

There are other types of terminal fittings, such as Noresman and Sta-Lok, which are more expensive and less common than swage fittings but are highly touted by many sailors for their durability. Norseman and Sta-Lok fittings can be installed or repaired by the boat owner — an obvious advantage, especially for making emergency repairs on long cruises.

Cracked swage fittings are not only the most common kind of rigging failure, but also the most visible. This one should have been noticed and replaced long ago.

Careful inspection of all terminal fittings is a must. Cracks are usually microscopic when they begin, so use your magnifying glass. Also, you can sometimes feel a crack with a fingernail that cannot be seen.

Cleaning the fitting with metal polish helps brighten the fitting to make inspection easier and using one of the three-part spray products on the market also helps you see cracks. The latter are highly touted by their manufacturers but they are not infallible. The first part cleans the fitting; the second part is a dye that penetrates the crack; and the third part is a developer. The dye, incidentally, can stain gelcoat, so be careful.

Terminal fittings, especially swage fittings at the deck, are prone to rust where the wire enters the swage. Rust indicates a serious problem and the swage and possibly the wire should be replaced. Some skippers like to use gel or wax to prevent water from entering the swage. While this may be effective for a while, it probably won't keep water out for long and could very well trap water inside, encouraging corrosion.

The Mast and Boom:

Welds and rivets.

Aluminum welds on the mast and boom should be inspected, especially where there may be a lot of stress. Look at the ends of the welds first, as aluminum welds fail from the ends of the weld inward. Welds that are not done correctly have sharp edges and crevices which encourage corrosion. Any welds that are cracked or badly rusted should be rewelded immediately.

Rivets should be examined, and any that are loose or missing should be drilled out and replaced with the next-larger size. Also, if one or two rivets holding a cleat or gooseneck are loose, it is a good idea to replace all of the rivets with the next-larger size, not just the ones that are missing.

Galvanic Corrosion

Galvanic corrosion occurs when stainless steel or bronze fittings — cleats, tangs, winches — are installed metal-to-metal on an aluminum mast.

Every few years, mast fittings should be rebedded with zinc chromate paste, polysulfide, teflon, nylon, or tufnol (plastic) to protect the mast from galvanic corrosion. Silicone does a good job of protecting the mast, but the fittings may be difficult to get off later. And in a pinch, Rolf Bjelke aboard the steel ketch Northern Light in the Antarctic, used a plastic coffee can lid to bed a halyard winch.

If a mast is painted, look for bubbles near fittings, which indicate corrosion. On an unpainted mast, look for white powder and pockmarks around fittings. Some powder, which is oxidized aluminum, is normal on an aluminum mast and is usually not significant. But heavy concentrations of powder, bubbles and/or pockmarks, especially deep pockmarks, indicates a serious problem that threatens the integrity of the rig. Contact a rigger or surveyor if you suspect a problem.

Whether it is stepped on deck or on the keel, the base of a mast — a maststep — should be the same material as the mast. Because water that is outside the boat usually finds its way into the bilge, a mast that is stepped on the keel is especially prone to corrosion when the boat is used in saltwater. A rigger in Maryland likes to tell the story about an owner who complained that the stays and shrouds that couldn't be tightened. He thought they had stretched. It turns out that the maststep had corroded so badly that the mast was "sinking" into the bilge.

A mast that is stepped on deck can cause problems if the load isn't supported properly down below. This is sometimes a design problem, but most often it is because a bulkhead or support stanchion has failed — shifted, rotted, delaminated, etc. Look down below for indications of movement, including jammed doors, broken bonds, and splitting wood. A sagging cabin top is a strong indication that adequate support isn't being provided.

Besides corrosion, maststeps can be damaged when the mast is cocked to one side and the heavy compression load is not evenly distributed. Indications of uneven compression load include cracking and/or crushing of the mast's base. The problem can be avoided by keeping your rig tuned — adjusting the stays and shrouds to make the mast straight. If the base of the mast has already been damaged, don't despair, it can either be cut down slightly and restepped or, if the problem is more serious, the damaged portion can be cut down and an extrusion added. Either way, the boat should not be sailed until a rigger is contacted and the problem has been corrected.

Wood masts have a lot of eye appeal but require more upkeep than aluminum masts. Wood masts are usually made of spruce, a material that is light and flexible, but prone to rot.

Rot is easier to detect when a mast is varnished. Painted masts hide rot, but only for awhile. Any areas that are badly discolored on a varnished mast, or won't hold paint on a painted mast, are suspect and should be sounded with a hammer for indications of soft wood. Rot is most likely to appear around fittings, the masthead, mastboot, spreaders, and especially at the maststep. These areas should be inspected twice a season and treated or caulked as necessary. Weep holes, used to drain water at the base of a box mast, can become plugged with debris, leaving water to fester inside the mast. Weep holes should be checked periodically with a coat hanger to prevent blockage.

Inspecting Aloft

Most people have a natural aversion to hanging from a rope at the top of a swaying mast. If possible, inspect your mast while it is unstepped. If you do go aloft, make sure there are experienced hands below to hoist you up. A snap shackle, if one is used on the halyard, can be made safer by taping the lanyard to prevent its accidentally opening. Also, if the boat is in the water, you'll want to moor it where it won't get tossed around by a passing boat wake.

Stress cracks often form at bends of fittings, such as the under side of upper T-ball terminals.

Zero in with a magnifying glass to detect cracks and discoloration before they fail.

Take tools: screwdrivers, pliers, a small hammer, lubricant, the mirror, extra cotter pins, and rigging tape. Put them all in a tool pouch or boatswain's chair with tool pockets and Velcro flaps. Whenever possible, use lanyards on the tools. The only thing worse than making the crew haul you up and down the mast getting tools you forgot is to drop a tool on someone's head. (You can also help the grinder's morale by using your feet and hands to help hoist yourself up.)

First stop is the spreaders. (While you're working, have the tailer cleat-off the halyard.) Make sure the ends of the spreaders bisect the shrouds at equal angles and are secured properly to prevent slipping. Skewed spreaders have been responsible for many dismastings. Tape or spreader boots, used on the spreader ends to prevent damage to the sails, should be removed temporarily so that the spreader ends can be inspected and the connection tightened as necessary.

Some skippers paint the top of the spreaders, even aluminum spreaders, to reduce damage from sunlight. This is a necessity with wooden spreaders, unless you go aloft every month and add a coat of varnish. Remember, you can't see the tops of the spreaders from down below.

Like their counterparts the chainplates, fork tangs, used to secure the shrouds to the mast, should be angled so that loads are in a direct line with stays and shrouds. Cotter pins should be taped so that they don't shred flailing sails or snag a halyard. Shrouds that use "T" terminals should be examined for stress cracks where the bend occurs and for elongation of the slot. Either problem indicates the shroud or fitting should be replaced.

The last stop, before you begin your descent, is the masthead. If you are even slightly acrophobic, the masthead can be a very scary place. Avoid looking down.

The mirror (remember the mirror?) is especially useful for inspecting fittings at the masthead that would otherwise be inaccessible. Look at the halyard fittings, especially the sheaves, which wear over time and can be crushed or split by the strain of the genoa. Even if it's healthy, a squirt of two of lubricant can help whenever the sail is raised. Wind indicators and radio antennas should also be checked for loose mounts and connections.

On the way down check the rivets and/or screws used to secure the mast track. Replace any that are missing or suspect. While you're at it, you may as well lubricate the track (use teflon) to make raising and lowering the sail less of a chore.

Standing Rigging: Stays and Shrouds

Stays and shrouds should have some "give", but not too much, when pressure is exerted with the palm of your hand. A stay that is too tight feels rigid. A stay that is too loose feels limp. Make sure any necessary adjustments are done evenly so the mast doesn't get cocked to one side. And adjustable (mechanical or hydraulic) backstays should be slackened when not in use. Remember, turnbuckles should have sufficient thread inside the barrel — at least 3/4" — and cotter pins to prevent their coming loose. (Be sure and wrap fresh tape around the cotter pins when you're done.)

This is what 1x19 wire looks like at the upper headstay terminal fitting after it has been twisted back and forth a few times from "halyard wrap". Even slight damage from minor episodes warrants replacing the wire.

Wire should be inspected for broken strands or "fishhooks" by wrapping some toilet paper around the wire and running it up and down. If the paper shreds, the wire is nearing the end of its useful life and should be replaced. Check the wire where it enters the swage fittings for rust, which also indicates weakened wires that should be replaced.

Replace Your Standings Rigging: $$$?

Lets play "what if". What if a small voice inside you says your rig is living on borrowed time: you've found rust, cracks, failed welds, and fishhooks?

As a general cost guideline, replacing the standing rigging on a typical 30 footer with 1/4" wire rigging will cost about $1,200. That price includes turnbuckles but not unstepping the mast. The cost of replacing the standing rigging on a 40-foot cruising boat with 3/8" wire could be almost twice as much. Incidentally, it pays to get estimates, as prices can very significantly. Our estimates to replace the standing rigging on a 30-foot boat, for example, were as high as $2,800.

Professional Inspections

If you're not confident in your ability to inspect your boat's rig, you can hire a professional — a rigger or surveyor — to do it for you. Riggers specialize in rigging, which is an advantage, but they could be biased since they also sell rigging. An inspection, including going aloft, should be under $100 for a 30' boat.

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Jason of Argonautrigging.com has 27 years of experience with formal large sailboat rigging parent companies of South Florida and most recently on his own. We are  " Bringing " business to our area!

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- We offer sailboat rigging services with a Wireteknik A-300 swage machine for standing rigging 1/4 inch wire rope up to 5/8 inch wire rope swage services in house. 

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• Wire Rigging

Stays, Swaging, and Nicro Press

The Standing Rigging (shrouds, forestay, backstay) of your sailboat are critical components and need to be inspected and maintained. Each wire should be checked for loose strands and breaks along the entire length of the wire with specific attention to the end fittings and anywhere it comes in contact with other rigging (ie. spreaders). Each fitting should be inspected for wear and the assembly should be replaced if there is significant wear, stress cracking or if the fitting hole has become oval.

Wire running rigging is also subject to wear and should be inspected often. wire to rope halyards are the most common wire running rigging but adjustable forestays, vangs, and backstay systems can also have wire components. the wear normally found on wire running rigging is broken strands at the fittings and along the length (often referred to as meat hooks) of the wire that passes around a sheave. as the wire wears the small broken strands along the length can catch clothing, skin, and sails resulting in small injuries, discomfort, and chafe. broken or worn strands significantly reduce the strength of the wire and should be replaced., swaging and nicro pressing.

Fogh Marine can perform either Nicro Pressing or Machine Swaging on most types of rigging wire. Unfortunately, our swaging machine is not capable of working with rod rigging and we do not sell 'hand swage' fittings.

Nicro Press Fittings : Are used to put loops or stops in a wire. The two primary fittings are a stop sleeve which fits the diameter of the wire and an oval sleeve that allows two wires through. This is a common fitting found on many dinghies, catamarans, and daysailers. Ideal for lower load applications and very convenient as there are many hand tools available. Fogh Marine can nicro press wire from 1/16" to 3/16"diameter.

Machine Swage Fittings: Are compressed on a wire using a Swaging Machine. There are many different fittings available and the mechanical joint between the fitting and the wire is much stronger than a nicro press. This style is found on many boats from dinghies to mega yachts. Ideal for standing rigging but requires a specific tool and is not a do-it-yourself option. Fogh Marine can swage wire from 3/32" to 3/8" diameter. For larger jobs Fogh Marine can swage wires at your location.

Ordering A New Wire From Fogh Marine

There are three methods you can use when ordering a new wire from us..

Option 1 - Build from Existing

The simplest method is to bring in to the store or mail us the wire you want to replace. Cam will look at your existing wire and wire fittings and give you a quote for fabrication. He will incorporate any changes you may want to the fittings or length in the quote. Once you have approved the work he will build your new wire for you.

Option 2 - On Site Inspection

This option is only available in the Greater Toronto Region. One of our staff will come to your boat and measure the wire to be replaced. The site visit is charged at $80/hr including travel time from Fogh Marine. It is not possible for us to accurately measure stays attached to a mast when it is stepped on the boat but, if you are not confident that you can get the length or fittings right and are unable to get it to us, we are happy to examine the rigging when the mast is off the boat. Once we have the specifications Cam will quote you for the job and, upon approval, build your new wire.

Option 3 - Send us your specifications

If you know what you need or are able to accurately measure your wire and choose the correct fittings, you can Contact Us the wire length and fittings and he will quote the job and, upon approval, fabricate the wire to your specifications. We are happy to help you with this process and are often able to help choose fittings based on photographs of the existing ends.

Please read the information below for items to include in your specifications.

Measuring Your Existing Wire

The most accurate way to fabricate a new wire is to bring us your existing one. leave the turnbuckle set to at the tensioned position and fogh marine will build a new wire using hardware that is as close a match as possible to your existing fittings..

There are times however, either due to need or distance, when it is not possible to bring in the wire you need to have replaced. In that case there are several pieces of information that we will need in order to fabricate a new wire that is a close match to your current one.

• Wire Diameter: Measure the current diameter of your wire. A simple way to do this, if you have swaged fittings, is to look on the fitting; there is often a number engraved on it. This number corresponds to a 32nd of an inch so a #4 fitting is used on 1/8 wire while a #8 fitting is used on 1/4" wire. If there is no engraving or the ends are nicro pressed the wire diameter can be measured with calipers or estimated with a ruler.
• Fitting Types: The most common fittings can be found in a section below. Request the fitting by name and we will select the correct one based on your wire diameter.
• Thread Direction: Threaded ends are either left or right handed. A right hand thread is the standard thread found on commonly available bolts but in the case of rigging turnbuckles the two threaded ends have to be opposite threads for the turnbuckle adjuster to work properly. The standard is for the swage fitting to have a Right Hand thread but it is not always the case. Always confirm the hand of your threaded fitting using the image below.

• Clevis Pin Sizes: The size of the clevis pin in eyes and forks is fairly standard but it is possible to have different size pins in fittings that work on the same diameter of wire. In some cases builders will drill out the fitting used on their boats in order to match up with hardpoints on the hull.
• Length of Wire: Fogh Marine uses the effective length of the wire for measurement also known as bearing point to bearing point. This method of measurement uses the point of contact or load at each end of the wire. In the case of an eye or toggle this is the outer edge of the hole.

Typical Bearing Points For Wire Length Measurement (click on images below)

Wire Fittings for Swage and Nicro Press

These copper nicro press stops are most often used to create lock points on halyards which correspond to mast mounted lock forks. They can be used whenever a stop or indicator is needed on a single wire.

Pricing and Availability

The oval sleeve is primarily used to create a loop at the end of a wire but can be used any time two wires need to be attached. Use with a thimble to create a hard loop or without for the tail end of a halyard being attached to a tensioning system.

Thimbles create a hard loop in a wire. When a wire rope has a loop on the end, there is a risk that it will bend too tightly. A thimble added inside the loop to stiffen it, and protect the cable from pinching and abrading on the inside. The use of thimbles in loops is a best practice when there are no space considerations (ie halyard entering a mast).

Closed thimbles do not have any sharp edges and are used when snags or chafe are a concern.

The Marine Eye is the standard wire end fitting. This eye has a larger clevis pin hole and a thicker, rounder eye compared to the aircraft type eye. Marine eyes are commonly used at the top of headstays and backstays when a fork or double strap fitting is found on the mast or using a masthead toggle. Also common at backstay bridles when double triangle plates are used to join the bridles to the primary backstay wire.

The Blue Wave Eye Terminal is a highly polished, load rated marine eye.

Aircraft Eyes are similar to the standard marine eye but with a more pronounced teardrop shape. Originally used in aircraft control cables and struts, the aircraft eye is thinner than a corresponding marine eye allowing it to fit narrow forks.

Aircraft Forks have a pronounced teardrop shape. Originally used in aircraft control cables and struts, the aircraft fork has a thinner opening than a corresponding marine fork allowing it to fit with reduced slop when attached to mast fittings. The narrow fork opening matches the thickness of the corresponding Alexander Roberts Aircraft Eye.

Toggles feature an articulating fork which in conjunction with the pivot at the clevis pin allows two axis of motion. This added adjustability allows the wire to pull evenly even if the deck or mast fitting is not completely aligned. This fitting is not common, however, as usually a turnbuckle with a swage stud at one end and a threaded toggle at the other.

Threaded Studs are usually found on the bottom of standing rigging. They allow sailors to tension the rigging through use of a turnbuckle. When choosing the stud it is best to match it to the wire and thread diameter as most manufacturer offer a variety of threaded diameters to match existing turnbuckle bodies.

Pricing for Wire Rigging Labour

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DIY of standing rigging with compression fittings

• Thread starter Avi
• Start date Apr 30, 2023
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

What are the risks of replacing all standing riggings to a compression fittings or swageless , with sta lok or norseman by myself? I watch many people doing it on YouTube with no special difficulties. I am thinking of doing it myself is there anything in particular I need to pay attention? The money saving is what I need because I am doing a major refit on my S2 9.2C and the expenses are overwhelming. Is Norseman better then Sta lok? Any advice will be appropriated  

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garymalmgren

Avi said: What are the risks of replacing all standing riggings to a compression fittings or swageless , with sta lok or norseman by myself? I watch many people doing it on YouTube with no special difficulties. I am thinking of doing it myself is there anything in particular I need to pay attention? The money saving is what I need because I am doing a major refit on my S2 9.2C and the expenses are overwhelming. Is Norseman better then Sta lok? Any advice will be appropriated Click to expand

Just a word of caution .. be sure to use some kind of anti seize on the threads of the mechanical fitting. We tried to use one to fix a broken backstay and could not get the new fitting apart; heat, breaker bars, impact driver on a crowfoot.. nothing would budge it.  

Captain Larry-DH

@Avi re: photo 4. The easiest way to cut wire rope with a clean (unsplayed) edge is with a rotary tool cutoff wheel.  

• Strengthen rigging to improve function of open water cruising.
• Mitigate by design the potential for corrosion in rigging.
• Improve running rigging systems to optimize mast base management.
• Add running rigging options for spinnaker and stay sail.
• Rewire all electrical systems.

Thank you all for the reply, I always learn something and get educated from all the feed backs  

Scott T-Bird

I think to summarize the reasons why many sailors choose mechanical fittings are: 1) Mechanical fittings are more of an investment to reduce costs when rigging needs to be replaced in the future. They are considered to be re-usable when you need to purchase new wire. But they are not a more economical choice with the initial purchase. 2) Mechanical fittings are geared towards the DIY sailor who may not have access to swaged fittings in remote areas when the rigging may need replacement. 3) Many DIY sailors have more confidence in measuring and cutting the rigging on their own and doing the job independently. There are some who just do not trust others to do these jobs. If you don't fit in those categories, I'd suggest that mechanical fittings may not be your best choice.  

I'll also suggest that with a major refit, as you describe, the best strategy is to focus on the jobs that you know that you will have to do yourself to save money. Rigging is not one of those jobs. The time you save farming this job to a good rigger will be well worth it. This job will probably be done with less expense (especially if you value your own time properly) if it is done by a rigger with swage machinery. I have no doubt that you can readily find several competent riggers who will offer competitive pricing. The job will be done quickly, and well, without any stress on yourself. If this rigging is 20 years old or older (or you don't even know the age), my advise is to do this job for sure and don't put it off. Peace of mind doesn't come for free, but it is priceless once you have it. So, good for you having this task on the front burner.  

Good points, @Scott T-Bird . I was thinking of doing my own, having lengths of wire made with swaged fittings at the top, those Navtec-style "T" fittings, and Hi-Mod mechanical fittings at the bottom. In 2017 I costed it out from Rigging Only on Fairhaven, MA (only 10 minutes from where I now live!) at about $2,000. I would have to terminate all of the lower fittings. Now, Hi-Mod terminals have doubled in cost since then!!! I'm thinking I should just have them come to my boat, measure, and fabricate the rigging with swaged fittings at both ends. Update on costs: Navtec swaged "T" fittings up 30% from 2017 to now. Wow.  

Scott T-Bird said: I think to summarize the reasons why many sailors choose mechanical fittings are: 1) Mechanical fittings are more of an investment to reduce costs when rigging needs to be replaced in the future. They are considered to be re-usable when you need to purchase new wire. But they are not a more economical choice with the initial purchase. 2) Mechanical fittings are geared towards the DIY sailor who may not have access to swaged fittings in remote areas when the rigging may need replacement. 3) Many DIY sailors have more confidence in measuring and cutting the rigging on their own and doing the job independently. There are some who just do not trust others to do these jobs. If you don't fit in those categories, I'd suggest that mechanical fittings may not be your best choice. Click to expand

dLj said: The main reason in my mind is the higher reliability of these fasteners. These kinds of mechanical fasteners are rated for "overhead" application but swagged fittings are not. Click to expand

Scott T-Bird said: Not knowing any different, I'll go along with what you say about reliability ... except that I've never heard that the reliability of swaged fittings on sailboats is really a factor worth worrying about for the typical sailor. My premonition is that increased reliability is just a meaningless argument for the DIY sailor to add in the pro column for justification of their choice. Just by sampling some reading, one rigger whom offers both services seems to suggest that mechanical fittings can be harder on the wire than swaged fittings, but defects or damages are more easily spotted with mechanical fittings, so it (how well they perform) may be a wash, depending more upon how well each alternative is actually performed by the rigger. Click to expand

There's the fatigue aspect not captured in the above, but the poured fittings have always been considered the "gold standard" in wire rope fittings. When I worked in that area, it was the only fitting permitted. Of course, the sizes we worked with would never have been below at least 1/2" and more at the 1" and above. I'd be very interested to see if you can find fatigue ratings for the different fittings. Love the numbers for the swaged fittings. dj p.s. an overhead rating does not mean you get 100% strength of the wire rope, it's that the strength that you achieve is reliable and does not change over time and usage. Of course within reason...  

Be that as it may, swaged fittings are the dominant rigging system in the sailboat industry. You occasionally (rarely) hear of rigs failing due to rigging failure, but I venture to guess that a poor configuration [1] or an aged rig is to blame. [1] An example of a poor configuration would be where there is not a straight pull from a swaged fitting, i.e., a toggle is called for but not installed. The non-straight pull stresses the wire where it exits the fitting. My Catalina 36 had this issue with the shrouds, and I installed toggles.  

jviss said: Be that as it may, swaged fittings are the dominant rigging system in the sailboat industry. You occasionally (rarely) hear of rigs failing due to rigging failure, but I venture to guess that a poor configuration [1] or an aged rig is to blame. [1] An example of a poor configuration would be where there is not a straight pull from a swaged fitting, i.e., a toggle is called for but not installed. The non-straight pull stresses the wire where it exits the fitting. My Catalina 36 had this issue with the shrouds, and I installed toggles. Click to expand

Scott T-Bird said: Not that there isn't the odd sailor who does consider it Click to expand

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Oil refinery blazes in Krasnodar Krai

I n the Krasnodar Krai, an oil refinery is on fire. Residents heard explosion sounds before the fire broke out, according to the Telegram channel Astra.

According to rescuers, the fire occurred around 2 a.m.

"According to the ESS (Emergency Situations Service) of the Siversky district, around 2 a.m. on February 9, a fire broke out at the Il'sk oil refinery," the regional operational headquarters reported.

The fire has been extinguished at present. There are no casualties as a result of the fire.

"By 3 a.m., open burning was promptly extinguished by the plant's services. There are no casualties. Emergency and rescue services are continuing their work at the scene to complete the elimination of the emergency and determine the causes of the incident," rescuers reported.

Fires in Russia

Earlier, we reported on a fire in a residential building in Moscow, which affected an area of over 4,000 square meters.

We also mentioned an explosion on a gas pipeline in Perm Krai, Russia, on February 8, resulting in a fire and casualties.

Additionally, on February 7, a fire broke out at a precast concrete plant in Belgorod, Russia. Authorities in Russia described it as a strike.

• International

May 26, 2023 Russia-Ukraine news

By Simone McCarthy , Andrew Raine , Sana Noor Haq, Aditi Sangal , Leinz Vales , Matt Meyer and Elise Hammond , CNN

Explosion heard in Russian city of Krasnodar

From CNN's Josh Pennington and Hira Humayun

An explosion was heard in the Russian city of Krasnodar on Friday morning, state news agencies Tass and RIA Novosti reported.

Citing the operational headquarters of Krasnodar territory, the news agencies said the roof and windows of a building on Morskaya Street had been damaged. No casualties have been reported so far.

Social media videos geolocated by CNN to Morskaya Street show what appears to be an unmanned aerial vehicle in the sky, followed by the sound of an explosion. Other social media images show smoke rising from the building, and another image shows the building damaged.

"According to information coming to the city's emergency call center, at 04:17 a.m. in the city of Krasnodar, an explosion was heard in the area of a building on Morskaya Street, 54/2," Tass said.

"Emergency services were sent to the scene. No casualties have been reported. There was damage to the building's roof and windows, but no fire," the report said.

Iran has a direct route to send Russia weapons – and Western powers can do little to stop it

From CNN's Lauren Kent and Salma Abdelaziz

The waters of the Caspian Sea appear deceptively calm. But this sea route – which provides a direct path between Iran and Russia – is increasingly busy with cargo traffic, including suspected  weapons transfers  from Tehran to Moscow.

As cooperation between the two countries deepens, the Caspian Sea route is being used to move drones, bullets, and mortar shells that the Russian government has purchased from the Iranian regime to bolster its war effort in Ukraine, according to experts. Tracking data shows that vessels in the region are increasingly going “dark” – suggesting growing intent to obfuscate the movement of goods.

Last year, data from Lloyd’s List Intelligence revealed a September spike in the number of gaps in vessels tracking data in the Caspian. That’s shortly after the United States and Ukrainian governments say  Moscow acquired drones  from Tehran last summer. Russia’s use of Iranian drones  increased in the fall , including against critical energy infrastructure in Ukraine.

And analysts say that Ukraine’s Western allies would have little power to stop such arms deliveries.

“There is no risk to Iranian exports in the Caspian Sea because of the bordering countries – they don’t have the capability or motive to interdict in these sorts of exchanges,” said Martin Kelly, lead intelligence analyst at security company EOS Risk Group.

Azerbaijan, Turkmenistan and Kazakhstan, all former Soviet republics, are the other nations with ports on the Caspian Sea.

It’s a “perfect environment for this trade to go unopposed,” Kelly added.

Read the full story here.

"Get out": Influx of Russians to Georgia stokes old enmities

From CNN's Christian Edwards

Above Tbilisi’s Old Town stands the Mother of Georgia statue, like a less imposing Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro. “Kartlis Deda,” as she is known to Georgians, holds a wine cup in her left hand and a sword in her right. She offers a choice to new arrivals. Come as a friend, you are our guest. Come as an enemy, you are not welcome.

Tbilisi, an ancient Silk Road city, is no stranger to foreigners turning up on its streets. But the arrival of more than 100,000 Russians in the country since Moscow launched its full-scale invasion of Ukraine last year has left Georgians uncertain whether to welcome them as friends or shun them as foes.

The government’s recent attempt to  force through  what critics see as a Kremlin-style “foreign agent” law, and the  huge protests  which prevented this, have not helped émigrés to settle in or locals to feel at ease alongside the new arrivals.

Many in Georgia fear what they see as the creeping Russification of their country – a story they know all too well.

On the streets of Tbilisi, the reception for Russian émigrés has also been mixed. “It’s a whole range of attitudes,” said Ivan, a 20-something IT consultant from a city in Russia’s far east. CNN is withholding Ivan’s real name, to protect him from retribution should he ever return to Russia.

Some Georgians are “warm and welcoming” and treat Russians as their “brothers,” Ivan told CNN. Others tell them to “get out.” The key difference is age, he has found.

Wagner clashes in and around Bakhmut are decreasing. Here's what else you need to know

From CNN staff

The Russian reconnaissance ship Ivan Khurs was seemingly hit by an unmanned surface vessel in the Black Sea, new video shows, disputing Moscow's claim it had  been able to thwart a Ukrainian attack  on the craft.

Footage shared by the Ukrainian Ministry of Defense on social media Thursday and analyzed by CNN appeared to show the moments just before the impact. 

Here are other headlines you should know:

Bakhmut developments: Ukraine's number of clashes with Wagner mercenaries in and around Bakhmut has been decreasing over the past few days, according to the spokesperson for the eastern grouping of the Ukrainian Armed Forces. Meanwhile, more than 100 Ukrainians who fought in the Bakhmut area and were captured by Russian troops have been released in a prisoner swap, the head of Ukraine’s presidential office said Thursday. And the head of Wagner, Yevgeny Prigozhin, told CNN he has handed over to Ukrainian authorities the body of a retired US Army Special Forces soldier who died fighting for Bakhmut.

Elsewhere in Ukraine: Russian officials in the occupied southern city of Berdiansk said Ukrainian forces have struck the city with a missile . A member of Russia's local administration in Zaporizhzhia said he still did not have information on casualties, adding that response teams were on site. And in the eastern Donetsk region, an official has accused Russian forces of destroying a dam and endangering nearby residents.

Military equipment: Finland on Thursday pledged to send additional military equipment to Ukraine. Meanwhile, the  transfer of some tactical nuclear weapons  from Russia to Belarus has begun, Belarus President Alexander Lukashenko said Thursday, according to state news agency BelTA.

Tariff and quota suspension: European trade ministers agreed to  extend the temporary measures  that suspend customs duties and quotas on Ukrainian imports to the European Union for another year, until June 2024 . The temporary easing of trade regulations between Ukraine and the EU went into force in June 2022.

Foreign fighters on trial: Five foreigners who fought for Ukraine are to stand trial in absentia in Russia, according to state media. The group all fought for Ukraine in the defense of the southern city of Mariupol. 

US does not support attacks on Russian soil and has "made it very clear" to Ukraine, White House official says

From CNN's DJ Judd

US President Joe Biden's administration has reiterated in conversations with Ukraine that it does not support attacks on Russian soil, White House National Security Council spokesperson John Kirby told CNN Thursday.

“We have again made it very clear to the Ukrainians what our expectations are about attacking Russia — we don't want to encourage or enable that, we certainly don't want any US-made equipment used to attack Russian soil,” Kirby told CNN’s Wolf Blitzer.

“And we have gotten assurances from the Ukrainians that they will respect those wishes … we have been very clear that we want Ukraine to be able to defend its own soil, its own territory. They have been attacked. They have been invaded. They have a right to defend themselves," he continued. "But, we've also been clear, well, that we don't want to see this war escalate beyond this, the devastation and the violence that is already visited on the Ukrainian people.” 

The conversations with Ukraine didn’t involve “outlining consequences” but were “simply a reaffirmation," Kirby told CNN. He added that these discussions have happened "as recently as over just the last day or so."

Some context: Kirby's comments come on the heels of a CNN report that anti-Putin Russian fighters, fighting alongside Ukrainian armed forces, conducted a raid inside Russian territory. 

In an interview with CNN’s Sam Kiley, one of the Russian nationals said the raid was conducted using American-manufactured equipment purchased on the open market. Kirby said Thursday that he could not confirm that.

He instead said the US is providing equipment "to be used to defend Ukrainian soil."

Russian reconnaissance ship seemingly hit by unmanned surface vessel, video shows

From CNN’s Vasco Cotovio and Yulia Kesaieva in Kyiv, and Sharon Braithwaite and Gianluca Mezzofiore in London

The Russian reconnaissance ship Ivan Khurs was seemingly hit by an unmanned surface vessel in the Black Sea, new video shows, disputing a claim by Moscow, which said on Wednesday it had been able to thwart a Ukrainian attack on the craft.

The video is filmed from a camera placed on the surface vessel. It shows the vessel as it approaches a larger ship at high speed.  

CNN analysis determined the ship is likely to be the Ivan Khurs. It also shows the tip of the unmanned surface vessel, similar to the unmanned surface vessels seen in video posted by the Russian Ministry of Defense on Thursday.

The feed cuts as the vessel comes within a few yards of  the ship. 

"When the Russian reconnaissance ship 'Ivan Khurs' met a Ukrainian drone," the Ukrainian Ministry of Defense said in a tweet . "Indeed, a perfect match!"

More background: On Wednesday, the Russian defense ministry acknowledged the attack on the Ivan Khurs but said all the surface vessels had failed to hit the ship. 

"Today at 5:30 a.m., the armed forces of Ukraine made an unsuccessful attempt to attack the Ivan Khurs ship of the Black Sea Fleet with three unmanned speedboats," said the spokesperson for the Russian Ministry of Defense, Maj. Gen. Igor Konashenkov. "All enemy boats were destroyed by fire from the standard armament of a Russian ship 140 kilometers northeast of the Bosphorus."

The Russian Ministry of Defense also shared footage that appears to show one of the surface vessels exploding as it is hit by gunfire. 

"The ship ‘Ivan Khurs’ of the Black Sea Fleet continues to fulfill its tasks," Konashenkov added. 

It is unclear what happened after the surface vessel seemingly hit the Ivan Khurs and how damaged the reconnaissance ship may have been during the attack.

CNN has reached out to Ukrainian sources for additional details but has yet to hear back. 

Wagner chief claims to have handed over body of US Army veteran killed in Bakhmut

From CNN’s Clare Sebastian, Allegra Goodwin, Svitlana Vlasova and Sarah Dean

The head of the Russian paramilitary company Yevgeny Prigozhin told CNN Thursday that he has handed the body of a retired US Army Special Forces soldier who was killed in the battle for the Ukrainian city of Bakhmut over to Ukraine. 

In a response to CNN asking if Wagner had returned the body of Retired Army Staff Sgt. Nicholas Maimer as promised by Prigozhin last week, Prigozhin said in an audio recording: “Today at 1500 hours we handed over the body of the American Nicholas Maimer to the Ukrainian side.” 

In a video shared with CNN by Prigozhin’s press service, the Wagner boss stands next to two coffins, one draped with an American flag and one with a Turkish flag, and says: “The American died in battle in the 'nest'” — one of the last contested areas in west Bakhmut — and added that the second coffin contained the body of a Turkish citizen who was in Bakhmut with his female partner. 

“They were found under the ruins of a building, or more accurately he and his documents. When the Ukrainians withdrew they blew up the building, and they died under the destroyed building. We weren’t able to get her out, but we got him out and will return to his motherland,” Prigozhin says of the Turkish citizens.

CNN cannot independently verify the location in the video or the date it was filmed. 

Ukraine’s Coordination Headquarters for the Treatment of Prisoners of War confirmed to CNN that Maimer’s body, along with the body of a Turkish citizen, had been returned to Ukraine on Thursday during a POW exchange . A video shared by the group showed a coffin covered with an American flag which matched the coffin seen in the video with Prigozhin. 

CNN is unable to independently confirm that the coffin contains Maimer’s body, or the circumstances in which he died.

Maimer's decades in uniform: According to Maimer’s service record provided to CNN, he served more than 20 years in uniform before retiring in 2018, according to his service record provided to CNN.

He served more than two years in the active-duty Army, leaving in December 1998; he then joined the National Guard in November 2000, and served about 18 years between three different Guard units before retiring in December 2018.

Among his awards and decorations are the Special Forces Tab, Army Commendation Medal and four Army Achievement Medals.

His uncle Paul Maimer told the Idaho Statesman his nephew had gone to Ukraine “as a humanitarian trying to do good for this world” and that the family wanted to bring him home for a “proper burial.”

“I think he’s deserving to be put to rest in a veterans cemetery,” he told the Statesman. “He might not have been fighting for our country, but he was fighting for the right reasons.”

CNN's Josh Pennington, Sandi Sidhu, Jennifer Hansler, Haley Britzky and Alex Marquardt contributed to this post.

Russia's transfer of tactical nuclear weapons to Belarus has begun, Lukashenko says

From CNN’s Uliana Pavlova

The transfer of some tactical nuclear weapons from Russia to Belarus has begun, Belarus President Alexander Lukashenko said Thursday, according to state news agency BelTA.

"It was necessary to prepare storage sites, and so on. We did all this. Therefore, the movement of nuclear weapons began," Lukashenko said.

Lukashenko also promised the safety of tactical nuclear weapons in Belarus, saying: “Don’t worry about nuclear weapons. We are responsible for this. These are serious issues. Everything will be all right here.”

Some background:  This comes after Moscow and Minsk signed an agreement on deploying tactical nuclear weapons in Belarus, one of Russia's neighbors and most loyal allies. Lukashenko  raised the possibility  of Russia placing strategic nuclear weapons in Belarus during a national address in March, while baselessly accusing Western countries of “preparing to invade” Belarus and “destroy” it.

Finland will send additional military equipment to Ukraine, defense ministry says 

From CNN's Sarah Diab in London

Finland on Thursday pledged to send additional military equipment to Ukraine.

Finland’s 16th defense package to Ukraine will include anti-aircraft weapons and ammunition and will be worth 109 million euros (about $117 million), a Finnish defense ministry spokesperson told CNN.

That brings the total defense aid from Finland to Ukraine since Russian invasion began last year to 1.1 billion euros (about $1.18 billion).

Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky thanked the Finnish government for the aid in a tweet:

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Fire at refinery near major port Novorossiisk put out, Russian authorities say

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India objects to US remarks on opposition figure Kejriwal's arrest

India strongly objected on Wednesday to U.S. remarks about its "internal affairs" after the arrest of Delhi's chief minister, a government rival, and the freezing of opposition Congress party bank accounts ahead of an election.