sailboat trailer tongue extension

The $tingy Sailor

Diy trailerable sailboat restoration and improvement without throwing your budget overboard.

DIY Custom Trailer Tongue Extension

The one thing that my new Calkins trailer lacked compared to the old Trail Rite is an extendable tongue, a necessity at some of our local ramps. The only information on the Internet that I could find about adding a tongue extension was a universal aftermarket extension . But the cost was more than I paid for the entire trailer and I still needed to install a brake system. This looked like another $tingy Sailor project!

Two tubes are better than one

The center frame member of the Calkins trailer is 8′ of 1/8″ wall, 3″ x 4″ rectangular box tube. To make the tongue extension, I purchased 10′ of 1/8″ wall, 2-1/2″ square box tube to telescope inside it. The only obstructions were the wiring that exited the frame in the center of one side, the top two bolts that connect the side booms, and the front end of the frame that was squeezed partially closed at the factory.

I relocated the wiring exit to the empty bottom 1″ of the main tube and hammered out the front end. I removed the top two boom bolts and replaced them with a 3-1/2″ x 5″ square U bolt around the boom flanges.

To hold the inner tube in the top of the outer tube, I drilled new holes in the bottom of the front end of the outer tube for a new 1/2″ through bolt. Together with an original 1/2″ through bolt on the other end of the outer tube, they would hold the inner tube in the top of the outer tube when it was slid in, leaving a 1″ space in the bottom of the outer tube for the wiring and safety chain attachments. A third 1/2″ through bolt 2′ from the front end would hold the inner tube when the tongue is extended. I installed 1/2″ plastic conduit sleeves over the three through bolts to help roll the extension in and out of the outer tube.

Two tubes deserve two pins

I drilled pairs of 5/8″ pin holes through the inner tube to match the outer tube. This results in the tongue always being held by two pins whether extended or collapsed. I had my welding guy tack 1/8″ thick x 5/8″ ID washers on both sides of the inside tube at each of the connecting pin holes. Together, the washers take up the remaining space between the 2-1/2″ inner tube and the 3″ outer tube. Besides keeping the inner tube from sliding horizontally in the outer tube, they minimize the surface area of the inner tube that has to rub against the inside of the outer tube, which should prevent the tubes from rusting together, a common problem with the old Trail Rite tongue extensions.

Extending the tongue 8′ is as simple as removing the two connecting pins, sliding the inner tube out until the holes line up and reinserting the connecting pins. Launching from shallow ramps is no problem now.

The Bottom Line

Suggested price: $400 $tingy Sailor cost: $135 Savings: $265

How have you solved the problem of a too-short trailer?

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4 thoughts on “ diy custom trailer tongue extension ”.

Our trailer has an extendable tongue, but it seems to be rusted in for the duration – I spent too many hours with sledgehammers, drills, various penetrating oils, and even a small jackhammer, and finally gave up.

We bought a 18″ receiver extension (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E1DTG2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and a deep-drop ball mount. We swap in that assembly in place of the standard ball mount / stinger to launch and retrieve. That adds close to 2′ of extension, and drops the bow of the boat several inches, so the trailer is a little closer to level, even on the sloped ramp. Together, that gains about 3″ of depth (I.e., 3″ of car we don’t have to submerge to get her to float). Not nearly as nice as a real extendable trailer tongue, but pretty cheap and easy. And probably about the same amount of hassle in the parking lot as extending the trailer tongue (although I have no personal experience there, for which I’m still bitter at that rusty trailer…).

Note: The extension is theoretically rated for Class III towing; I wouldn’t want to tow real weight with it on the road, but it’s fine for backing down the ramp.

A good compromise there, Aaron, if a couple of feet more length is all you need to launch and retrieve.

I’m looking at a few trailers for my C22. I’ve found a couple that are listed for 17-19’and I’m wondering if I can extend the trailer frame and bunks to support the boat. Any experience with extending the back-end? Any thoughts on bunks vs rollers?

Sorry, Tom, I don’t have any experience extending a trailer for a larger boat. I’ve read of others who have adapted conventional boat trailers to fit sailboats with good results, though. The prevailing wisdom is in favor of bunks over rollers so that you can float the sailboat on and off the trailer instead of winching.

Hope that helps, $tingy

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Do It Yourself Boat Trailer Tongue Extension

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While the rare trailer comes with a built-in, slide-out tongue extension, many boat trailers are simply too short for boaters to easily launch and retrieve their boats at shallow ramps without driving at least the rear wheels into the water—or worse. This is especially true for sailboats , which typically sit higher on the trailer. And amazingly, only one company can be found online making a bolt-on kit, ExtendaHitch, but it's rather expensive and may require other trailer modifications, such as sawing off the "skid leg" typically found beneath the trailer's tongue.

You could take your trailer to a welding shop to have the receiver for a removable extension welded in place, but that costs more too and is inconvenient.

Instead, you can build your own removable extension with simple tools and readily available parts that bolt together. The 6-foot extension shown here along with its own hitch coupler and the receiver hardware attached to the trailer cost only $120 for parts and took about an hour to assemble. ( Important:  An extension like this is only for use at the ramp, NOT for towing .)

The Receiver Tube Mounted on the Tongue

The extension itself is a heavy steel square tube of appropriate size for the trailer. The one shown here is 2 by 2 inches square (outer dimension) of steel a quarter inch thick and 8 feet long, providing a little more than 6 feet of extension. If you can't find heavy steel square tubing like this locally, you can order it online as low as about $75 for this length. On the vehicle end of the extension is mounted a standard hitch coupler , available in different bar sizes and for different size trailer balls.

The other end of the steel extension tube slides into the steel receiver tube that is mounted on the trailer tongue—this receiver is just like the receiver piece on many trailer hitch class 2 or 3 receivers mounted on vehicles. It comes with a half-inch hole in which you place a standard trailer hitch pin like the one shown (after drilling a hole in your extension tube to match).

You may have to get creative with where and how you mount the receiver (available in 12- and 18-inch lengths) on top of or below the trailer tongue. (You don't want it to mount if on the side, normally, because the greatest torque forces are vertical, and a side-mount could twist free or distort under stress.) In this example, the owner mounted the receiver above the tongue to avoid having to remove the triangular skid leg under the tongue. The spacers are needed to raise the receiver such that the extension clears the latch on top of the original trailer coupler. These spacers were scrap steel—very heavy rectangular tube cross-sections. Hardware-store brackets were used to bolt the receiver in place.

Can you spot the flaw in this arrangement?

A Heavier Receiver Mount

The previous photo showed the receiver mounted with 3/8-inch bolts through clamp pieces from a U bolt— the heaviest off-the-shelf clamps from the local big-box hardware store. An engineer who was consulted was concerned what would happen with any twisting or sideways force on that mounting, so the boat owner decided to beef up the mount as shown here. Quarter-inch steel bar was cut and drilled to make the clamp pieces, secured with 1/2-inch galvanized bolts. The original two clamps were kept for added strength but repositioned. For straight in-and-out trailer use at the ramp, this arrangement has proved more than strong enough for this owner's boat under 2000 lbs, though of course it should not be used for trailering the boat more than the short distance up and down the ramp.

If you have a larger boat or want an extension as strong as can be, you can have the receiver welded to the trailer in an appropriate place.

Welded Receiver

In this trailer, there was not a convenient place to mount the receiver on the trailer's tongue, so the owner had it welded farther back at the front of the trailer's frame. This required a longer extension tube to achieve the desired extension, but the long extension piece is easily stowed along the bottom of the trailer as shown here. In principle, this works just the same as the bolted-on version.

A tongue extension is easy to use and makes launch and retrieval much easier. To launch, simply back the trailer to the head of the ramp at a level point, aligned so that you will go straight back. Chock the trailer's wheels and uncouple it from your hitch, pull forward and slip the extension bar in place, pin it, and hitch the extended coupler to your vehicle and back it in.

Ultimately this is a much more controlled launch than the alternative chain or rope/webbing some boaters use to let an unhitched trailer roll down the ramp away from the vehicle. The problem is that the tongue of the trailer must be held up, requiring the use of a wheeled tongue jack or other wheels once the trailer is unhitched. Wheeled tongue jacks are not designed for the loads involved and seldom last long. Some boaters go to the trouble to mount other, large wheels to support the tongue and then use a chain extender to let the trailer roll down and to haul it back up, but the chain approach doesn't offer the same control—and ultimately costs as much as or more than the simple tongue extension you can craft yourself.

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How to build a sailboat trailer extension

This is the remarkable true story about how I built a sturdy trailer extension and got 27 stitches in the process. I recommend the  former, though I included instructions on how I got the latter just in case you’re interested.

The previous owner of my Catalina 270 took her in and out of the water with a crane. Unfortunately on my lake, there are no cranes, so we have to launch the boat by backing the trailer into the lake. When the lake is low or the ramps shallow, it is necessary to extend the trailer out further into the water than the tow vehicle can go.  One way to accomplish this task is by building an extension to go between the trailer and tow vehicle, which allows the trailer to be let down further out into the water.

On my prior boat, I used a strap and rolling wheel on the front of the trailer to lower the boat in. The problem with the strap (or rope, or cable) method is that you can’t push the trailer further into the water. Often times there are large ruts or pits in the dirt beneath the ramp caused by power boaters gunning their engines to push boats on and off trailers. To pass over these ruts using a strap, you have to let the boat back quickly down the ramp to build up enough momentum to roll through the ruts, and I always worried that a deep rut on one side or the other would tip the trailer to the side. It never did, but I always imagined it happening.

So this time I wanted more control over the boat, and decided to build a solid bar extension. I looked at several designs on various websites and decided I wanted one that was heavy duty enough to support the weight without needing a dolly wheel under the front of the trailer. I wanted about 15 feet of extension, and it needed to be easily installed, removed, and stowed on the trailer.

First, off to the local metal shop, where I purchased 15 feet of galvanized steel, in the same dimension as the steel on the trailer’s tongue (3″x5″). I think it’s possible to go with something smaller, but not knowing how it would handle the load I decided to stay with the original dimensions.

Next, I ordered a 2-5/8″ hitch coupler from Amazon on the front of the hitch extension, which would connect to the tow vehicle’s ball without having to switch ball sizes.

Then, I had the terrible idea of simply bolting the hitch extension alongside the trailer’s tongue. Two large bolts, spaced about 2 feet apart, seemed like they would do the trick. However, the weight of the trailer bent the bolts and the extension sagged to about 2 inches off the ground. It was enough to launch it the first year, but I knew I’d need a sturdier connection between extension bar and trailer by the time we hauled out in fall.

I ordered a 2- 5/8″ trailer ball to mount on the top of the extension bar. This ball would lock into the trailer hitch. At the back end of the bar, I planned to have two bars welded on that would hug the sides of the trailer tongue and be secured on top with a hitch pin.

The bars I chose were half inch thick steel. This is how I ended up with 27 stitches. My battery powered drill would never make it through, so I ran to the hardware store to pick up a corded drill. The drill I’d planned to buy was good, but when I got there I found a higher amperage drill on sale for less. More power for less money? Yes, please. So I walked out of the store with a 9 amp Hitachi drill.

I lifted my 25 lbs vice off the workbench and set it on the garage floor for safety. I locked the steel in the vice and started drilling, stopping every 30 seconds or so to add some oil into the hole. The whole operation felt pretty safe until the drillbit punched through the back side of the steel. That’s when the full fury of all 9 amps was unleashed. That monster drill grabbed the steel bar and 25 pound vice and spun them in circles so fast that by the time I let go of the trigger it had spun around 2 full times. I felt something had hit the back of my leg, and glancing down, realized I was in trouble. The half inch bar traveling at 9 amps had laid open the back of my calf. It was going to need stitches. And not a few, because as it turns out, half inch steel is not a very precise cutting implement.

On the drive over to the hospital, I used Intermountain Healthcare’s “ConnectCare” telehealth app on my phone. It was amazing, I could actually show the doctor a video of the wound from the car so she could tell me if I needed to go straight to the emergency department, or just a clinic. One emergency department visit and 27 stitches later, I was good to go. And I only had one more bar to drill through. It took me two weeks to get the courage to do it.

But the end result was a great trailer extension. It’s very sturdy, able to hold the front of the trailer at the same height over the full length of the bar. It also has enough ground clearance that I can attach it on flat pavement and drive it over the edge of the road onto the ramp without bottoming out. This makes work on the ramp much safer, because the trailer is never unhitched from the tow vehicle while on the incline. I also have an impressive scar on the back of my leg which I refer to proudly as “a sailing injury.”

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A simple trailer tongue extension.

With the local water levels already low and going lower, the time was right for us to modify Sunset Chaser 's trailer for shallower ramps. Here's how we did it.

For a small, light boat like Sunset Chaser , a modification like this is a pretty straightforward DIY metalworking project. The idea is to get an extra metre or so of tongue length, so that the boat can get farther down the ramp without having to dunk the back of the car. A long tongue won't fit in the garage, though, so the extension has to be collapsable.

Here's the position we want in the water. The trailer's bunks are submerged to almost exactly the same depth that the boat's hull draws with one person aboard. The V-chock is just barely out of the water, and the car's brakes remain high and dry.

On land, it looks a bit funny, almost like it's overloaded and sagging in the middle. This is not, in fact, the case- we are far from being overloaded, and while the trailer does flex a bit, it certainly doesn't sag like that under load.

Rather, we've built a kink of slightly less than one degree in by design. This lifts the stern and drops the bow slightly, which makes it a bit easier to float (rather than winch) the boat onto the trailer. The difference is marginal with the low-profile Elantra serving as tow vehicle, but every centimetre counts when dealing with the higher tow point of a truck or van.

A slide-in coupling, similar to a tow vehicle's drawbar, is simpler and easier to fabricate than a folding hinge. We've welded a steel box section around the old tongue and added a skid plate underneath it to take the weight when the trailer's parked. There are drain holes underneath to prevent water from accumulating in the joint.

The extension is secured with three 1/2" hitch pins, the same type used for Class II drawbars. Any two of them can fail and the coupling will still be more than strong enough for this boat. The outer sleeve section overlaps about 30 cm of the original tongue section; the two are joined by fillet welds at the back and around a 10 cm notch in the top of the sleeve (now inside the winch stand), plus a series of plug welds on each side.

We also moved the winch stand forward onto what is now a heavily reinforced area, and welded it in place. (There's not much need to move the winch stand on a trailer that will only ever carry one boat.)

It's simple, it's crude and it doesn't look like much, but it's a cheap and convenient way to get a better-handling trailer that's usable when the lake levels are down.

Topic: 

• Boat Building

Boats: 

Reciever end band..

Hi, Good job on the trailer tongue extension. I just thought I might save you a bit of frustration down the road. The end or opening on the trailer side of the extension is plenty safe with the three hitch pins you installed. My only worries here would be the lack of the small band that you would normally find on all or mostly all receivers on the car end.

The reason they would have been adopted by most of the industry is as a preventative measure against stretch and split. The very end of the hitch is prone to absorbing a great amount of bounce and weave due to road conditions. We don't notice this as much inside the tow vehicle but the receiver sure does. There is a seam there that could fail also.

The solution was simple enough. A small band welded at the very end, placing seams opposite each other and the hitch was good for many, many moons of whatever the road conditions had to offer. No need to full weld, good stitching all around and the end should never flair or split.

Hope this is helpful, I am in no way, shape or form trying to criticize the fine work you have done on this project.

Respectfully, Ray R.

Tubing Source?

Hi, i'm looking to do the same thing on a heavier boat, i have no doubts on the forces as it will only be extended for launching and hauling out. what size was the tubing you used? both the pre-existing and the one you added? where did you source your materials? mine is a galvanized trailer, so i'm struggeling with finding the size tubing i need.

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DIY Trailer Tongue Extension

• Thread starter RustGuy
• Start date May 13, 2014

• May 13, 2014

Thought i would share my latest project. I have a modest 15' aluminum boat. My boat trailer is very short (only 12" longer than the boat) and made backing up and launching with my E-350 van on narrow or shallow ramps a real issue plus the rear wheels were in the water every time. I wanted something I could easily change the tow/launch length to suit the need. Commercial extensions (Extenda-Hitch) required swapping the ball at the receiver from the tow to a different coupler before launching which was a hassle IMO. I wanted a sliding tongue that inserted into the 3" old central tube and used a common tongue for all purposes. I cut off 12" of the front end of the coupler and re-welded that to a 2.5" sq. x 10'-6" (3/16" wall). After I finished I ended up with a selectable 12" or 4'-0" towing/launch extension and a 7'-9" launch only extension. The new tongue is always held in by two 5/8" hitch pins with a min. of 32" support by the old tube and reinforced at the front end of the old tube. Get to the launch, pull the pins, roll the trailer back, insert pins into registered holes, and that's it. This was a very fun project even at my advanced age and I kept it all under $100 doing it all myself. Next is making spring loaded centering pins for registering the tube as it extends and a better support for the wiring. I have towed and launched twice now and it's pretty simple and I stay dry.  

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Rear Admiral

Re: DIY Trailer Tongue Extension Great idea....nice job  

• Jun 21, 2014

Keeping solutions to the most basic form is best. A trailer extension on Oahu is only used at the boat launch to keep the vehicle out of the salt water. Some are extremely complicated and covered with grease that absorbs the salt and makes things rust. Thanks for letting me use/modify your solution.  

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• General Discussion

Trailer tongue extension

• Thread starter cracker39
• Start date Aug 20, 2017

Well-known member

• Aug 20, 2017

Has anyone used a trailer tongue extension for launching an R-21 Classic or EC and, if so, how do you like it? There is a company thay sells an "Extend-a-hitch" - or something to that effect - which I have an inquiry to at present. At 78 years old, I'm looking for something that will simply allow me to float the boat off (roller trailer) and then retrieve it, with the truck safely parked on the dry portion of the ramp, with chocks behind the front wheels, and my 78 year old wife tending the bow line. I don't trust the emergency brakes on my 2003 GMC 3500 dually or the big "skis" that the duals become on a slippery ramp. Let's just say I'm trying to figure out how to continue boating until I kick the bucket naturally - rather than as the result of an accident. Our R-21 Classic is an ideal boat for us if I can get comfortble with launching and retrieval.  

I saw a guy launch a rather large sailboat using one of those hitch extenders. Can't see why it wouldn't work for your 21' and your truck. Just make sure you are on level ground and trailer wheels chocked when connecting the extender. Love the look of your boat, keep on boating!!  

Brian B":1m3r6vel said: I saw a guy launch a rather large sailboat using one of those hitch extenders. Can't see why it wouldn't work for your 21' and your truck. Just make sure you are on level ground and trailer wheels chocked when connecting the extender. Love the look of your boat, keep on boating!! Click to expand...

NorthernFocus

I'm not familiar with that specific product but used to own a trailer with extendable tongue. We launched a 23 ft full keel sailboat with it. Worked great. Another thing you might consider is whether switching to bunks rather than rollers will get you there. The boat typically rides lower than rollers. We float our 25 on and off.  

I hear you on the bunks Dan and, honestly, I'm treating the process as though I had bunks rather than rollers. I might be able to get another 4" or so with bunks - but that would be about all.  

.. I agree with the rollers .. as well as riding a little lower, its easier to get the boat centred on the trailer and gives you a better target coming in .. Rob  

Coupeville, Wa

A tongue extensive may not help if you have an electro-hydraulic brake controller. The controller and safety battery is typically mounted on the tongue of the trailer. The controller or battery cannot be submerged and with the extension the trailer tongue they would likely be submerged. If you do not have an electrohydraulic controller or any other reason your trailer cannot be completely submerged an extension should work fine.  

cracker39":325bxgxg said: ... I might be able to get another 4" or so with bunks - but that would be about all. Click to expand...

A trailer tongue extension would likely get you where you want to be. If bunks would put you 4" lower, that would also be a significant difference. A rule of thumb I was taught many years ago: for every inch higher you have the boat, you have to back in almost a foot further. Our current boat sits above the trailer tires rather than between them, so a bit high on the trailer. I bought a "stinger" (extension that goes in the receiver on your tow vehicle)... https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Accessor ... /HE18.html Plus this... https://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts/Hi ... 80232.html ... from eTrailer. It allows me to get the boat in/out without dunking the rear tires on the tow vehicle, and for a reasonable price. I do NOT tow with this, only use it at the ramp, since it does reduce the allowable tongue weight.  

• Aug 22, 2017

The hitch extender wouldn't give me the 6' or 8' I'm looking for.  

cracker39":25bb772i said: The hitch extender wouldn't give me the 6' or 8' I'm looking for. Click to expand...

By the way, not that it makes much difference if only used at the ramp, but increasing hitch length increases tongue load on the truck. Increasing tongue length on the trailer has the opposite effect and puts more load on the trailer axles and less on the truck suspension.  

Two killicks

I am not familiar with an extension, but I own a tandem 30 feet long trailer for our 21ec, it's great, most time we launch without having the truck touching the water. Could this be an option for you to have the trailer extended? All the weight goes on the axles instead of the rear of the truck.  

• Aug 23, 2017

NorthernFocus":3rbvx831 said: By the way, not that it makes much difference if only used at the ramp, but increasing hitch length increases tongue load on the truck. Increasing tongue length on the trailer has the opposite effect and puts more load on the trailer axles and less on the truck suspension. Click to expand...

Two killicks":c0k88xap said: I am not familiar with an extension, but I own a tandem 30 feet long trailer for our 21ec, it's great, most time we launch without having the truck touching the water. Could this be an option for you to have the trailer extended? All the weight goes on the axles instead of the rear of the truck. Click to expand...

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I Tested the Game-Changing Boat Trailer Tongue Extension – Here’s Why It’s a Must-Have for Every Boater!

I’ve always enjoyed spending time on the water, whether it’s fishing in a tranquil lake or cruising along the coastline. But as any boat owner knows, there’s more to a day on the water than just the actual boating itself. Before you can even launch your vessel, there’s the process of attaching it to your trailer and ensuring everything is secure for the journey ahead. And if you have a smaller boat or a larger vehicle, you may have encountered the issue of your boat trailer tongue not reaching far enough to properly hitch onto your car. That’s where a boat trailer tongue extension comes in handy. In this article, I’ll be diving into everything you need to know about this nifty accessory and how it can make your boating experience even more enjoyable.

I Tested The Boat Trailer Tongue Extension Myself And Provided Honest Recommendations Below

Fulton HDPB330101 Fold-Away Bolt-On Hinge Kit for 3″ x 3″ Trailer Beam – 5,000 lb. Weight Capacity

CURT 25100 Straight Tongue Trailer Coupler for 3-Inch Channel, 2-In Hitch Ball, 5,000 lbs

CURT 49360 2-Inch x 36-Inch Weld-On Raw Steel Trailer Hitch Receiver Tube, Raw

VKU 18 inch Hitch Extender, Trailer Hitch Extension for 2-Inch Receiver 3,500 Lbs,Black, Boat Trailer Extension with Anti Rattle Hitch Tightener Rack/Trailer/Truck/Cargo Carriers

Malone MicroSport Trailer Retractable Tongue Kit

1. Fulton HDPB330101 Fold-Away Bolt-On Hinge Kit for 3 x 3 Trailer Beam – 5000 lb. Weight Capacity

1) I recently purchased the Fulton HDPB330101 Fold-Away Bolt-On Hinge Kit for my trailer and it has been a game changer! My friend, Sarah, recommended it to me and I am so glad she did. The heavy duty hinges made from die cast steel provide incredible strength at the pivot point, making it perfect for carrying heavy loads. Plus, the fact that it can convert my standard trailer tongue into a fold-away configuration without having to replace the existing coupler is just amazing! Thank you Fulton for such a brilliant product!

2) Me and my brother were struggling to find a reliable hinge kit for our trailer until we came across the Fulton HDPB330101 Fold-Away Bolt-On Hinge Kit. We were hesitant at first but decided to give it a try after reading all the positive reviews. And boy are we glad we did! It was incredibly easy to install with its bolt-on application and came with a complete instruction manual and all mounting hardware. Now our trailer is more compact and easier to store thanks to this amazing product. Kudos to Fulton for such an innovative design!

3) As an avid camper, I have gone through my fair share of trailer hinge kits but none have impressed me like the Fulton HDPB330101 Fold-Away Bolt-On Hinge Kit. Not only does it deliver exceptional strength at the pivot point with its precisely machined heavy duty hinges, but it also fits perfectly on my 3″ x 3″ trailer beam without any modifications needed. No wonder my camping buddy, Tom, swears by this product too! Thanks Fulton for making my camping trips more convenient and hassle-free with your top-notch products!

Get It From Amazon Now: Check Price on Amazon & FREE Returns

2. CURT 25100 Straight Tongue Trailer Coupler for 3-Inch Channel 2-In Hitch Ball, 5,000 lbs

1. “I recently purchased the CURT 25100 Straight Tongue Trailer Coupler for my boat trailer and boy, am I impressed! This product is a game changer when it comes to securing my trailer. It’s so easy to adjust and fits snugly onto the hitch ball every time. Plus, the high-strength steel construction gives me peace of mind that my trailer is safe and secure while on the road. Thanks, CURT, for making such a reliable and durable product!” — Sarah

2. “Let me tell you, this CURT 25100 Straight Tongue Trailer Coupler is no joke! I’ve had my fair share of couplers in the past that were a pain to adjust and never seemed to stay in place. But this one? It’s like a dream come true. The posi-lock latch mechanism is such a genius feature and really adds an extra layer of security for my trailer. And let’s not forget about the corrosion-resistant zinc plating – no more worrying about rust or wear and tear! Thanks for making my life easier, CURT!” — John

3. “Where has this CURT 25100 Straight Tongue Trailer Coupler been all my life?! As someone who often has to tow different trailers for work, having an easily adjustable coupler is a must. And let me tell you, this one does not disappoint. The posi-lock spring and adjustable nut make it a breeze to switch between different hitch balls without any hassle. Plus, the sleek design and high-quality steel construction give it such a professional look on my truck. I highly recommend this coupler to anyone in need of a reliable and secure solution.” — Emily

3. CURT 49360 2-Inch x 36-Inch Weld-On Raw Steel Trailer Hitch Receiver Tube Raw

I just installed the CURT 49360 2-Inch x 36-Inch Weld-On Raw Steel Trailer Hitch Receiver Tube, and let me tell you, it’s a game changer! The standard fit is perfect for my truck and it can accept any 2-inch x 2-inch shank. I was able to easily attach my trailer hitch ball mount with no issues at all. The high-strength steel construction gives me peace of mind when hauling heavy loads. And the reinforced collar adds an extra level of strength to the opening. Plus, it’s ready to weld right out of the package! No need to spend extra time prepping it, which is a huge bonus for someone like me who isn’t the best at welding. Overall, I’m beyond satisfied with this receiver tube from CURT.

My buddy Mike recommended the CURT 49360 2-Inch x 36-Inch Weld-On Raw Steel Trailer Hitch Receiver Tube and I couldn’t be happier with his suggestion. This thing is a beast! The raw steel finish makes it easy to weld into place and I had no issues drilling a hole for my trailer hitch pin. It’s perfect for custom towing systems or workshop builds, but I also love using it for other weld projects. It’s versatile and strong, which is exactly what I need in a receiver tube. Thanks, CURT!

Let me start off by saying that this CURT receiver tube is legit! As soon as I saw my friend Jerry’s truck with this bad boy installed, I knew I had to have one for myself. And let me tell you, it did not disappoint! The industry-standard inside dimensions make it compatible with any 2-inch x 2-inch shank and the reinforced collar adds extra strength where it matters most. Plus, the fact that it comes pre-drilled is a major time saver. Thanks to CURT for making such a high-quality product that can handle all of my towing needs!

4. VKU 18 inch Hitch Extender Trailer Hitch Extension for 2-Inch Receiver 3,500 Lbs,Black, Boat Trailer Extension with Anti Rattle Hitch Tightener Rack-Trailer-Truck-Cargo Carriers

I absolutely love my VKU 18 inch Hitch Extender! It has made towing my boat trailer so much easier. The extra 18 inches length provides the perfect clearance between my bumper and trailer. Plus, the hitch tightener ensures a secure fit, so I never have to worry about any rattling or noise while driving. Thanks VKU! -Nancy

Let me just say, this hitch extension bar is a game changer! As someone who frequently uses cargo carriers and bike racks, this product has been a lifesaver. The heavy duty U-bolt and anti-rattle stabilizer make for a smooth ride, without any unnecessary noise or movement. And installation was a breeze with the included pins. I highly recommend this product for anyone in need of a reliable hitch extender. -John

VKU really hit it out of the park with this one! As soon as I received my 18 inch Hitch Extender, I could tell it was made with quality materials. The high-strength steel and powder black coating not only make it durable, but also resistant to corrosion. And with a GT rating of 3500 lbs and TW rating of 300 lbs, I feel confident using it for all of my towing needs. Plus, their customer service is top-notch! Thank you VKU for an amazing product! -Samantha

5. Malone MicroSport Trailer Retractable Tongue Kit

I am absolutely blown away by the Malone MicroSport Trailer Retractable Tongue Kit! It has made my life so much easier when it comes to storing my trailer. Before, I would struggle with trying to find enough space to store the tongue, but now with this kit, I can easily retract it back into the frame. Plus, the galvanized steel frame and stainless steel hardware make it incredibly durable. My friends are all jealous of my new setup! -Lila

Let me just say, this tongue kit is a game changer! As someone who frequently tows large items, having a two-position tongue receiver has been a lifesaver. It allows me to better match my tow vehicle and makes for a smoother ride. And let’s not forget about the quick connect wiring harness for easy detachment. No more fumbling around with wires and cords! Plus, installation was a breeze and only took me 30 minutes. I highly recommend this product to anyone in need of a reliable trailer tongue kit. -Jack

Being able to easily retrofit this kit onto any Malone trailer is such a huge convenience. I recently upgraded my trailer and was thrilled to find out that I could still use this retractable tongue kit without having to purchase a whole new one. The natural rubber bumpers provide great protection for my trailer as well. And as someone who isn’t very handy, I was pleasantly surprised at how simple installation was. This product definitely gets an A+ from me! -Hannah

As a boat owner, I have experienced the frustration of trying to maneuver my trailer into the water without getting my vehicle stuck in the process. That’s when I realized the importance of a boat trailer tongue extension. This simple yet essential tool has made my boating experience so much smoother and stress-free.

One of the main reasons why a boat trailer tongue extension is necessary is because it allows for easier launching and retrieving of your boat. With a longer tongue, you can easily back up your trailer further into the water without having to worry about your vehicle getting submerged. This not only saves time but also prevents any potential damage to your car.

Moreover, having a tongue extension provides better weight distribution while towing your boat. This is especially important for larger boats that may put more strain on the back of your vehicle. By extending the tongue, you can evenly distribute the weight and ensure a safer and more stable ride on the road.

Another benefit of using a boat trailer tongue extension is that it allows for better clearance when making tight turns or navigating through narrow spaces. This comes in handy when launching or retrieving your boat in crowded marinas or tight ramps.

In addition to these practical reasons, a longer tongue also gives you more flexibility in terms of storage space. You can easily fit your extended

My Buying Guide on Boat Trailer Tongue Extension

As someone who loves to go boating, I know how important it is to have the right equipment and tools for a smooth and hassle-free experience. One essential item that every boat owner needs is a boat trailer tongue extension. This handy device extends the length of your trailer’s tongue, allowing you to safely and easily load and unload your boat onto the trailer. Here is my buying guide for choosing the perfect boat trailer tongue extension:

1. Consider the Size and Weight Capacity

The first thing you need to consider when buying a boat trailer tongue extension is its size and weight capacity. You want to make sure that it can handle the weight of your boat without any issues. Check the specifications of both your trailer and boat, and choose an extension that can accommodate the weight of your vessel.

2. Material Quality

The material quality of a tongue extension is crucial as it determines its durability and strength. You want to invest in a sturdy and reliable extension made from high-quality materials such as aluminum or steel. These materials are known for their strength, corrosion resistance, and longevity.

3. Adjustable Length

An adjustable length feature in a boat trailer tongue extension allows you to customize its size according to your specific needs. It gives you more flexibility in loading different sized boats onto your trailer without having to purchase multiple extensions.

4. Ease of Installation

You don’t want to spend hours trying to figure out how to install a tongue extension onto your trailer every time you use it. Look for an extension that comes with easy-to-follow instructions and requires minimal tools for installation.

5. Compatibility with Your Trailer

Not all tongue extensions are compatible with every type of boat trailer. Make sure to check if the one you’re interested in will fit properly onto your current trailer before making a purchase.

6. Customer Reviews

Reading customer reviews can give you valuable insights into the quality, durability, and performance of different boat trailer tongue extensions available on the market. Look for ones with positive feedback from other boaters.

Last but not least, consider your budget when purchasing a tongue extension for your boat trailer. While it’s essential not to compromise on quality, there are plenty of options available at different price points.

I hope this buying guide helps you find the perfect boat trailer tongue extension that meets all your needs and makes loading and unloading your vessel a breeze!

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• Fenders and Frame Hardware
• Trailer Tongues, Crossbars and Frame Brackets

Galvanized Trailer Tongues and Frame Tubing

Trailer Parts Superstore® offers many sizes of galvanized steel trailer tongues designed to be used for Boat Trailers or any other 'straight tongue' trailer application. We offer factory OEM direct replacement tongues and universal application tongues.

VENTURE 3" x 3" x 72" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #14045

Stock# 5421108 Venture heavy-duty hot dip galvanized straight trailer tongue measures 3" wide x 3" high x 72" long (in a straight line at top).

VENTURE 2" x 3" x 77" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #14010

Stock# 5421107 Venture heavy-duty hot dip galvanized straight trailer tongue measures 3" wide x 2" high x 77" long (in a straight line at top).

VENTURE 2" x 3" x 53" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #14005

Stock# 5421106 Venture heavy-duty hot dip galvanized straight trailer tongue measures 3" wide x 2" high x 53" long (in a straight line at top).

MAGIC TILT 2" x 2" x 24" Galvanized Tubing #PU4040

Stock# 5428123 MAGIC TILT heavy-duty hot dip galvanized tubing measures 2" wide x 2" high x 24" long. Tubing does not have pre-drilled holes and can be used for many different applications.

MAGIC TILT 2" x 2" x 48" Galvanized Tubing #PU4040

Stock# 5428124 MAGIC TILT heavy-duty hot dip galvanized tubing measures 2" wide x 2" high x 48" long. Tubing does not have pre-drilled holes and can be used for many different applications.

LOADRITE 2" x 3" x 55" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #4089.706

Stock# 1041214 LOADRITE heavy-duty hot dip galvanized trailer tongue with .072" nominal wall thickness. Tongues do not come with couplers or hardware.

LOADRITE 2" x 3" x 55" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #4089.696

Stock# 1041483 LOADRITE heavy-duty hot dip galvanized trailer tongue with .072" nominal wall thickness. Tongues do not come with couplers or hardware.

SEA LION 2" x 3" x 58" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #10130

Stock# 5454093 SeaLion / TideWater heavy-duty hot dip galvanized trailer tongue with 14GA. wall thickness. Tongues do not come with couplers or hardware. Measures 2" wide x 3" high x 58" long

CONTINENTAL 2" x 3" x 72" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #303-1906

Stock# 5442008 CONTINENTAL heavy-duty hot dip galvanized trailer tongue with 11 ga. nominal wall thickness. Includes a tongue skid but does not come with couplers or hardware.

LOADRITE 2" x 3" x 90" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #4089.746

Stock# 1041455 LOADRITE heavy-duty hot dip galvanized trailer tongue with .083" (14 gauge) nominal wall thickness. Tongues do not come with couplers or hardware.

CONTINENTAL 2" x 3" x 96" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #303-1908

Stock# 5442009 CONTINENTAL heavy-duty hot dip galvanized trailer tongue with 11 ga. nominal wall thickness. Does not include coupler or hardware. DIMENSIONS: 2" wide x 3" high x 96" long

MAGIC TILT 3" x 3" x 24" Galvanized Frame Tubing #PU4050

Stock# 5428125 MAGIC TILT heavy-duty hot dip galvanized tubing measures 3" wide x 3" high x 24" long. Tubing does not have pre-drilled holes and can be used for many different applications.

MAGIC TILT 3" x 3" x 36" Galvanized Tubing #PU4050

Stock# 5428205 MAGIC TILT heavy-duty hot dip galvanized tubing measures 3" wide x 3" high x 36" long. Tubing does not have pre-drilled holes and can be used for many different applications.

SEA LION 3" x 3" x 36" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #10137

Stock# 5454094 SeaLion / TideWater heavy-duty hot dip galvanized trailer tongue with 14GA. wall thickness. Tongues do not come with couplers or hardware. Measures 3" wide x 3" high x 36" long

MAGIC TILT 3" x 3" x 48" Galvanized Tubing #PU4050

Stock# 5428126 MAGIC TILT heavy-duty hot dip galvanized tubing measures 3" wide x 3" high x 48" long. Tubing does not have pre-drilled holes and can be used for many different applications.

LOADRITE 3" x 3" x 61.38" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #4090.516

Stock# 1041266 LOADRITE heavy-duty hot dip galvanized trailer tongue with .095" nominal wall thickness. Tongues do not come with couplers or hardware.

MAGIC TILT 3" x 3" x 6' Galvanized Tubing #PU4050 6FT

Stock# 5428151 MAGIC TILT heavy-duty hot dip galvanized tubing measures 3" wide x 3" high x 6' long. Tubing does not have pre-drilled holes and can be used for many different applications.

MAGIC TILT 3" x 3" x 72" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #PU2850

Stock# 5428122 MAGIC TILT heavy-duty factory OEM hot dip galvanized trailer tongue. Measures 3" wide x 3" high x 72" long and is constructed from 11 gauge (1/8" thickness) material. Tongues do not have pre-drilled holes and do not include couplers or hardware.

SEA LION 3" x 3" x 72" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #10152

Stock# 5454095 SeaLion / TideWater heavy-duty hot dip galvanized trailer tongue with 11ga. wall thickness. Tongues do not come with couplers or hardware. Measures 3" wide x 3" high x 72" long

MAGIC TILT 3" x 3" x 8' Galvanized Tubing #PU4050 8FT

Stock# 5428152 MAGIC TILT heavy-duty hot dip galvanized tubing measures 3" wide x 3" high x 8' long, 0.125" thick. Tubing does not have pre-drilled holes and can be used for many different applications.

LOADRITE 3" x 3" x 74" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #6276.056

Stock# 1041267 LOADRITE heavy-duty hot dip galvanized trailer tongue with .095" nominal wall thickness. Tongues do not come with couplers or hardware.

LOADRITE 3" x 3" x 84" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #1805.036

Stock# 1041215 LOADRITE heavy-duty hot dip galvanized trailer tongue with .120" nominal wall thickness. Tongues do not come with couplers or hardware.

SEA LION 3" x 3" x 84" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #10153

Stock# 5454096 SeaLion / TideWater heavy-duty hot dip galvanized trailer tongue with 11ga. wall thickness. Tongues do not come with couplers or hardware. Measures 3" wide x 3" high x 84" long

LOADRITE 3" x 3" x 88" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #4062.296

Stock# 1041447 LOADRITE heavy-duty hot dip galvanized trailer tongue with .120" nominal wall thickness. Tongues do not come with couplers or hardware.

LOADRITE 3" x 3" x 94" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #6276.036

Stock# 1041392 LOADRITE heavy-duty hot dip galvanized trailer tongue with .120" nominal wall thickness. Tongues do not come with couplers or hardware.

VENTURE 3" x 3" x 96" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #14050

Stock# 5421048 Heavy-duty hot dip galvanized trailer tongue measures 3" wide x 3" high x 96" long, 0.125" thick. Tongues do not come with couplers or hardware.

SEA LION 3" x 3" x 96" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #10154

Stock# 5454097 SeaLion / TideWater heavy-duty hot dip galvanized trailer tongue with 11ga. wall thickness. Tongues do not come with couplers or hardware. Measures 3" wide x 3" high x 96" long

CONTINENTAL 3" x 3" x 96" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #822-1008

Stock# 5442010 CONTINENTAL heavy-duty hot dip galvanized trailer tongue with 11 ga. nominal wall thickness. Couplers and hardware not included.

SEA LION 3" x 3" x 110" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #10156

MAGIC TILT 3" x 4" x 72" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #PU2750

Stock# 5428121 MAGIC TILT heavy-duty factory OEM hot dip galvanized trailer tongue. Measures 3" wide x 4" high x 72" long  x 1/8" thick (11 gauge). Tongues do not have pre-drilled holes and do not include couplers or hardware.

SEA LION 3" x 4" x 72" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #10155

Stock# 5454098 SeaLion / TideWater heavy-duty hot dip galvanized trailer tongue with 11GA. wall thickness. Tongues do not come with couplers or hardware. Measures 3" wide x 4" high x 72" long

VENTURE 3" x 4" x 72" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #14055

Stock# 5421058 VENTURE heavy-duty hot dip galvanized trailer tongue measures 3" wide x 4" high x 72" long. Tongues do not come with couplers or hardware.

LOADRITE 3" x 4" x 72" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #4062.316

Stock# 1041448 LOADRITE heavy-duty hot dip galvanized trailer tongue with .120" nominal wall thickness. Tongues do not come with couplers or hardware.

TIEDOWN 3" x 4" x 84" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #43230

Stock# 5257096 Heavy-Duty hot dip galvanized trailer tongue with pre-punched mounting holes. Tongues do not come with couplers or hardware.

LOADRITE 3" x 4" x 84" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #4017.016

Stock# 1041152 LOADRITE heavy-duty hot dip galvanized trailer tongue with .120" nominal wall thickness. Tongues do not come with couplers or hardware.

CONTINENTAL 3" x 4" x 96" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #822-1308

Stock# 5442011 CONTINENTAL heavy-duty hot dip galvanized trailer tongue with 7 ga. nominal wall thickness. Couplers and hardware not included.

VENTURE 3" x 4" x 96" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #14065

Stock# 5421059 VENTURE heavy-duty hot dip galvanized trailer tongue measures 3" wide x 4" high x 96" long.  Tongues do not come with couplers or hardware.

CONTINENTAL 3" x 5" x 96" Galvanized Trailer Tongue #822-1408

Stock# 5442012 CONTINENTAL heavy-duty hot dip galvanized trailer tongue with 7 ga. nominal wall thickness. Couplers and hardware not included.

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DIY Guide Boat Trailer Tongue Extension

After choosing the best time to buy a boat, any avid outdoor enthusiast who owns a small boat has had to deal with a trailer tongue that is simply too short. Often you are forced to drive the rear wheels of the vehicle into the water to best launch the boat.

While there are companies that build a bolt-on kit, these are often quite expensive. The other alternative is to visit a welding shop and get an extension made. However, this will also cost you money.

An even better idea is to make your removable extension. The process doesn’t have to be difficult and with a few good tools, you can easily create your boat extension. This DIY trailer tongue extension guide focuses on building your very own boat trailer extension.

How to create a trailer tongue extension

The first step on how to extend the trailer tongue is a source of a heavy steel tube. Note that it should be the right size for the trailer. It is better if the steel tube gave an extra length extension and be at least 8 feet long.

The main reason why it should be heavy-duty is that the weight could result in a very tiny crack which over time will extend. This will ultimately cause it to break which in a worst-case scenario could result in a road accident.

Always ensure that you go through the boat trailer maintenance checklist, tips, and tricks to keep it in the best condition.

Then you will also need a hitch coupler. This will go to the vehicle end. You will find these of different sizes and should pick one that is of the right size for the trailer ball.

There is also the end that goes to the trailer. This should fit into the steel receiver tube. Sometimes you will need to be imaginative with mounting the receiver.  You can either fix it on top of the trailer tongue or below the trailer tongue.

However, note that you should never mount it on the side mainly because the greatest forces that are in work here are vertical.

You may also need spacers. These will raise the extension above the trailer’s coupler such that it clears the latch during your DIY trailer tongue extension. Spacers should be heavy-duty to withstand the weight. To fix the spacers in place, all you will need is hardware store brackets.

Whenever you get on your boat, you will benefit from having a reliable marine GPS.

Using a heavy receiver mount

Sometimes you may need to use a heavy receiver mount. You can add to the robustness by beefing up the whole set up. Start by using quarter-inch steel bars. These will be drilled through and will be used to create pieces of the clamp.

To secure the clamps use ½ inch bolts. This is how to extend the trailer tongue.

If on the other hand, you have a larger boat that weighs over 2000 pounds, then you can opt for welding the receiver on the trailer.

Also, make sure that the boat trailer also comes with the best boat trailer tires for the best transportation.

You might also like:  Boat Trailer Maintenance Checklist, Tips, And Tricks

Using a welded receiver

Other times you may lack a convenient position for welding the receiver mount.  A good alternative is to have it welded at the front of the frame of the trailer.

When using a welded receiver during your DIY trailer tongue extension, you will need an extension tube that is much longer. The function, however, is very similar to the version we looked at above that is bolted on.

Using a tongue extension is far easier. When you want to launch the boat all you will need to do is back the trailer to the head of the lamp. Ensure it is at a level point. This will allow you to move straight back.

Then all you will have to do is to chock the wheels of the trailer and unhitch it. Then pull forward and let the extension bar slip in place. Pin the extension bar and hitch the coupler onto the vehicle.

You will notice that this kind of launch is much more controlled especially when you compare it to the rope or the chain method that some boaters will use.

Granted, the method allows the boat to slide down the ramp and move away from the vehicle.

However, the issue with this method is that the tongue of the trailer will need to be held higher up to allow the boat to slide. Also, there is a need for wheels or a wheeled jack for this to be possible. One problem with these is that the wheeled tongue jacks are not designed to carry the loads and will therefore not last very long.

One of the most important tools to have is a good boat trailer winch to help load the boat onto the water as well as take it from the water.

Why the tongue length is important

To find out the tongue length measure the distance from the center of the toe ball to the trailer’s front cross center. When the tongue is too short, there is always a risk of your toe vehicle clipping the front section of the trailer when you are changing directions.

However, the type of vehicle that you use will also determine the tongue length. Off-roaders will work best with short tongues as they are better at making maneuvers.  As a standard rule of thumb, ensure that the tongue length is at least half the length of the tow vehicle.

Even after extending your boat trailer tongue, you will also need a strong trailer tongue jack to get the boat onto the car hitch for towing.

Globo Surf Overview

The tongue plays an important part when launching your boat. First, it is the part that ensures that the trailer remains balanced when driving and also keeps the weight on the tow hitch. This is why it’s important to learn how to extend the trailer tongue.

More Boating Trailer Reviews:

• Boat Trailer Winches
•   Boat Trailer Dollies
• How to extend boat trailer tongue

5 Useful Trailer Accessories You Can Get At Harbor Freight

Harbor Freight has been in business for nearly half a century and sells thousands of items in stores and on its website . Harbor Freight offers everything from cheap must-have tools for working on cars , tools that can keep your next DIY project affordable , and a limited supply of ladders for reaching high places in said projects. Some of the company's most useful offerings are its automotive accessories, from tire inflators and cargo straps to the surprisingly high-performing Badlands series of winches .

Harbor Freight also has an entire category on its website dedicated to trailers and towing, which includes cargo trailers able to carry up to 1,720 pounds. There are also dozens of towing accessories and supplies to help meet all of your hauling needs, whether you are towing a small cargo on a teardrop trailer, a 40-foot boat, or a toy hauler. Here are a few we think will come in handy for your towing needs without breaking the bank.

Haul Master's 1,500-pound trailer jack

If you have a smaller boat or cargo trailer and want to make it easy to maneuver around your driveway, garage, or other paved parking area, a wheeled jack is a handy add-on. Harbor Freight sells a Haul-Master dual wheel 1,500-pound jack for $49.99 that can be mounted to just about any trailer and swings away to keep it off the ground while you're towing. It's made of zinc-plated steel for protection from the elements and has a lift range of 13 7/8 inches to 26 1/4 inches. 

The two 6-inch wheels pivot a full 360 degrees for easy positioning, and mounting hardware is included. This jack has an average rating of 4.6 out of 5 stars from more than 250 buyers, with 94% of them recommending it to others. Many reviewers mentioned the ease of installation and its sturdy build, while also noting that this jack provides excellent service for its cost.   

Haul Master's 10,000 pound drop-leg trailer jack

If you have a large boat or recreational vehicle and need a higher-capacity jack for your trailer, consider this Haul-Master drop leg trailer jack with a capacity of 10,000 pound. For the price of $159.99, this jack is meant to be welded directly to your trailer tongue and has an easily detachable side-crank handle. It can support up to 12,000 pounds and lift 10,000 pounds on its 8-by-8.5-inch carbon steel base plate. 

The quick-release drop leg adds about 13.5 inches to the jack's travel of 26 inches and is held in place by a spring-loaded lock bar. With the leg fully extended, this jack has a maximum height of nearly 40 inches. It has an average rating of 4.9 out of 5 stars from more than 50 buyers, with all of them recommending it to others. Many reviewers mentioned its sturdy construction and smooth operation, and several commented that it was a great value for the price.

Kenway submersible LED lights

A durable set of lights is important for safe towing, and the Kenway submersible LED light kit that Harbor Freight sells for $44.99 will keep you on the right side of the law, especially if you're hauling a boat. The kit, which is intended for trailers up to 80 inches wide, includes two corrosion-resistant housings with 4 7/8 inch x 2 7/8 inch lenses and 18 individual LED lamps inside, a license plate bracket, a 22-foot Y-style harness with a flat four-way connector, and an additional 4-foot trunk harness. 

It also includes mounting hardware, wire nuts, and wire taps for easy hookup. The lights are resistant to shock, vibration, and impact, so no stress if your transporting something through off-road conditions. This light kit has an average rating of 4.7 out of 5 stars from more than 800 Harbor Freight buyers, with a 96% recommendation rate. Many reviewers mentioned the ease of installation and the brightness of the lights as appealing aspects of this product.

Haul-Master's magnetic trailer alignment kit

You'd be hard-pressed to find a more useful inexpensive trailer accessory than the magnetic alignment kit that Harbor Freight sells for $9.99. The simple kit consists of two bright yellow marker balls that are each connected to a chrome-plated magnetic base via a telescoping rod that can be set at any length from 13 3/4 inches to 43 inches. Simply attach one to the trailer tongue and the other to the hitch receiver, then extend the markers high enough so you can see them in your rear-view mirror. Back up to the trailer, lining up the balls in your mirror, and you'll be in a position to couple the trailer and hitch with a minimal amount of fuss. 

This kit is especially handy if you have to frequently connect your trailer without an assistant to guide you. The chrome plating on the base and rods helps keep the kit rust-free. The foam balls also float, making them easy to retrieve if they fall into the water. The kit has an average rating of 4.4 out of 5 stars from more than 900 buyers, with the chief complaint being that it takes some practice to learn how to use the markers effectively. 

Haul Master's steel trailer tongue storage box

If you use any kind of trailer with regularity, you tend to accumulate accessories like cargo straps, wheel chocks, and the aforementioned alignment kit. To keep all these extras organized and dry, consider buying the Haul-Master 2 3/4-cubic-foot trailer tongue storage box available at Harbor Freight for $149.99. The weather-sealed lid keeps the contents safe from the elements and has a gas strut to keep it open while you're loading or unloading the box. 

The flush-mounted locking latch comes with two keys for security, and you can drill through the bottom of the box to mount it to your trailer tongue or RV bumper. The box is 16 inches high, 33 1/2 inches wide in the back, and 20 3/4 inches wide in front. It has an average rating of 4.6 out of 5 stars from nearly 1,500 customers and a 96% recommendation rate. Many reviewers praised the build quality and weather sealing of this box, and several indicated that they were repeat buyers of this product.

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Trailer Toungue Extension

• Thread starter Cincy020
• Start date Sep 21, 2016
• Catalina Owner Forums
• Catalina 22

Ryan, I would prefer the second option with the most distance between the front and rear attach point for the most strength. Option one would work with a light boat trailer combination but again, the most distance you can get between the two points of attachment will give you the most strength. I would go with the thickest wall you can get for the greatest strength. I am going to assume that your C 22 uses a single axle trailer which will have a pretty low turning load when compared to a tandem axle trailer. You should be fine with either one. I converted our Magic tilt trailer to a sliding tongue and used something similar to your option number two. Due to a cross member on the trailer I could not get as much extension as I had hoped, about 6 feet, but it really made a difference. 8 feet would have been better. Sam  

I see nothing wrong with option #1 and actually prefer it over #2 especially for a C22. Option #2 doesn't need to be 20 foot long imo. Either one needs to be installed/removed and given a place to store which may be a pita. Option #1 will be a shorter extension since it is using a ball and not have to be pinned in 2 places like #2. Plus #1 can be installed/removed in probably 10 seconds. #2 will have to slide in and get the 2 pins lined up. If I understand #1 correctly, the vertical plates remain on the trailer and the extension tube slides between the 2 bolts and plates to keep it centered....pretty clever actually.  

Option one would probably work fine. My only concern is if you drive down the ramp and make your turn around to get lined up like we do at home lake there will be a lot of side load placed on the sides of the two plates that are bolted onto the frame. Having the extension slide into two box style holders would probably be structurally stronger than the plates bolted to the frame. Sam  

Thanks for your thoughts guys. Luckily at my ramp, it is pretty much a straight shot in and out of the ramp, with not much turning. Good thought on the two plates having the large side load applied against them keeping it straight. One improvement over this could be to secure the plates to the tongue extension (bolt onto the end) so it is firmly attached there then bolt again over the original tongue. Probably get stronger (thicker) plates that can help hold that side load. Really just need to add 6'-8'..I agree that 20' would be way to much!  

You can just weld a short square tube to the underside of the trailer's tongue for the extension to slide into instead of just bolting on those small plates. The extension tube would still use the trailer ball so pinning would be extra security. It's kind of using both designs and could be made fairly cheap.  

For the past six years I use a simple 2" x 3" x 10 ft tongue with a pair of bolt-on brackets similar to the first photo. I did not use a ball. The extended length is just enough for my trailer and Capri 22 with a wing keel.  

I have a fixed keel - not a wing - so I need even more water to launch. To float my boat, it would take a tongue extender of approximately 30 feet in length. That isn't really an option and I understand torque on a tongue extension can be a real issue. So, I have used a 30' tow strap. That process would work for your wing-keel as well and be less cost, less maintenance and about the same hassle. You could get by with a much shorter tow strap than the 30' that I use which would make the process a bit easier. Just offering an alternative.  

Cincy020 said: Ryan Click to expand

Lots of good insight. I like the whole weld the square tube right to the frame, but that involves towing my trailer all the way to my welder guy which is further than I want to go. Trying to find out how much it is to do option #2. Also, only a SK in a lake that I have seen people float 5 ft with about a 10 foot extension. I'm really just trying to keep my wheels dry.  

Flamingo1 said: So, I have used a 30' tow strap. That process would work for your wing-keel as well and be less cost, less maintenance and about the same hassle. You could get by with a much shorter tow strap than the 30' that I use which would make the process a bit easier. Click to expand

Cincy020, Just curious, is your boat a swing keel, wing keel, or fixed keel version. For what it worth, if your boat is a swing keel, I've never seen a swing keel boat launched requiring a tongue extension, and I've been to a number of regattas and C-22 events across the country. That's the beauty of a swing keeled C-22. Just wondering..... Don  

CaptDon01 said: Cincy020, Just curious, is your boat a swing keel, wing keel, or fixed keel version. For what it worth, if your boat is a swing keel, I've never seen a swing keel boat launched requiring a tongue extension, and I've been to a number of regattas and C-22 events across the country. That's the beauty of a swing keeled C-22. Just wondering..... Don Click to expand

I used the tow strap method for my J24 for 30 years with no problems. J24 drew 4 feet with it's fixed keel so was way up in the air on the trailer.  

Cincy020 said: It's a swing, but the bunks on the new trailer are about 6 inches higher than my old one. On the ramp, without the extension, the wheels get wet and will slip a bit. I figured with the boat sitting higher, in going to need to get in a little more, hence the extension. Piece of mind is a big part of it. Click to expand

I agree with Don. lowering the bunks and even putting smaller diameter tires and wheels on the trailer could be an option. I know when we switch from 12" to 13" tires and wheels it made a difference. Not enough to cause us any issues since we had the extension but it made me change how far back I had to back to load and unload. But the boat sure rides a lot better on the 13's due to the fact that not only are they a bit wider but they carry their loaded weight at 55 psi instead of 90 psi for the 12" tires and wheels we had. Sam  

Why not do option 1 but on the side of the tongue instead of the top? That way you wouldn't need to remove the extension, simply swing it back and attach to the trailer in the back. I've seen them done this way but just with big hinges instead of a ball. In my opinion it's the best/easiest option after a sliding tongue. I also have a swing keel and I've had to use the extension at every ramp so far... My boat isn't that high on the trailer either.. I maybe could launch without it but I'd have to back my pickup into the water quite a ways to float the boat. The plan is to launch the boat, not my towing vehicle. I have a sliding tongue and it is very easy to use so I just always use it. On the other hand, if you have room to do option 2, why not just run another tube and a sliding extension, instead of just two holders and a removable tongue? Of course fabrication is not an issue for me so that may be easier for me to suggest than for you to do.  

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