The arc of the lights and color allows you to determine the direction a boat is moving. How good are your boat’s lights? You should test them to check your nighttime visibility, or you might land yourself in hot water with the Coast Guard.
Whether on a trailer or at the marina, switch on your lights and see how well they can be seen. Walk away from the boat or row away, if you are at anchor or at a mooring, and see how visible the lights are as you move further away. How easy are they to see against the background of lights onshore?
Does your stern light shine dead astern over the required 135º arc or does it shine to one side or up or down? Can it be seen from the required 2 miles and why is that important? As an example, let’s say that your stern lights can only be seen for 1/2 mile. You are underway at 8 knots and a large ship is approaching at 15 knots. The ship is only 4 minutes away from a collision with you. By the time the ship “might” see you, identify the light, and decide on how to move, it is too late. A ship traveling at 15 knots may take miles to stop.
Look at the stern lights again, as you move from the stern toward the bow, does the stern light “disappear” as the sidelight “appears”? The stern light should disappear and sidelight appear at 22.5º abaft the beam. If you don’t see the green starboard sidelight or the red port side light when the stern light disappears there is a problem with the arc of one or all these lights. This means that if another boat were approaching you at the angle where no lights are seen there is an increased risk of collision.
If both the stern lights and side lights are seen brightly at the same time you still have a problem. A boat approaching won’t know whether they are overtaking or crossing and whether they should give-way or stand-on.
You should also check to make sure that your masthead light disappears at the same time each side lights disappear and they both disappear when the stern light appears.
Check your sidelights from dead ahead. You should see both red and green. However, by moving toward one side just 1-3º you should then see only one light. If you still see two lights, an approaching boat won’t be able to tell which direction you’re are going.
It is very important to be seen from a distance but also for an approaching boat to be able to determine your direction of travel.
When boating at night remember the following: “When two lights you see ahead, turn your helm and show your red”.
Outdoors, I’m in my element, especially in the water. I know the importance of being geared up for anything. I do the deep digital dive, researching gear, boats and knowhow and love keeping my readership at the helm of their passions.
Categories : nauticalknowhow
Thanks for writing this post. I can either place them on the exterior or interior for decorations. Placing them on the exterior side is helpful when I go fishing and indulging in other night activities in the water.
We love the lights! We put lights from Seaponer on my Jon boat right above the water line and use them for night fishing! The amount of brightness it offers is an assurance of my boat’s being seen clearly during the night. At the same time, the LED lights don’t consume too much energy, leading to a life span of up to 50,000 hours.
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Early on in our sailing career, the first mate and I discovered that we really enjoy anchoring out overnight. The bays in the North Idaho lakes where we cruise are surrounded by snow-capped mountains, covered by crystal clear starry skies, and afford plenty of privacy. The problem was, Summer Dance didn’t have an anchor light, which is a shame because according to the original invoice that I have, it would have only cost $36 in 1981 when she was built. Not even $tingy Sailor can add one that cheaply today.
According to Rule 30, paragraph (e) of the United States Coast Guard Navigation Rules (COLREGS), an anchor light is not always required on sailing vessels the size of the Catalina 22:
“(e) A vessel of less than 7 meters in length, when at anchor, not in or near a narrow channel, fairway, anchorage, or where other vessels normally navigate, shall not be required to exhibit the lights or shape prescribed in paragraphs (a) and (b) of this Rule.”
That pretty much sums up where we anchor most of the time although occasionally in a quiet anchorage. Seven meters equals 22.9659 feet. The length of a Catalina 22 hull is 21.5 feet, a foot and a half under the minimum length for a mandatory anchor light. But not wanting to get run into by drunk or wayward powerboaters, I took on the challenge anyway.
The good news is that the hull was already wired for one. I found one end of the positive wire near the breaker panel and labeled “Mast.” They probably wired them all that way during manufacturing and only added the hardware if ordered. The first hurdle was finding the other end of that wire. Almost all of the wiring in the first generation C-22s is embedded in the fiberglass of the boat. This makes the wiring mostly unserviceable. When no mast light is installed at the factory, there is also no mast wiring connector near the step. Fortunately, Catalina made a little dimple in the cabin roof a couple inches to the left of the mast step to indicate where the mast wiring terminates inside the upper deck.
Starting with a 1/4 twist bit, I cautiously drilled into the dimple and was relieved when the bit broke through into a void between the roof deck and the cabin liner. Then with a 1/2″ hole saw, I opened up the hole so that I could fish the wire ends out of the void with a coat hanger. About a foot of 16 gauge black and white wiring emerged that hadn’t been touched in 33 years. I connected the ends to the female half of a Sea-Dog 426262-1 polarized connector and screwed it into pilot holes in the deck sealed with butyl tape. I connected the other end of the positive wire to one of the breaker switches in the electrical panel. The other end of the negative wire was already connected to a common ground wire that runs along the port hull seam and serves the port dome lights and the bow navigation light.
With power to the mast step, the rest of the circuit needs to be inside the mast. I pulled 25′ of 16/2 duplex wiring through the mast and made a loop in the cable with a Zip Tie around the masthead bolt to carry the weight of the cable instead of the light connections. Before making the connections on both ends, I slipped closed cell foam pool “noodles” over the cable inside the mast. These prevent the cable from being damaged by hardware fasteners that protrude inside the mast and they prevent the mast from ringing from the cable slapping inside the mast when at anchor. This is much easier and cheaper to install than the recommended PVC conduit.
I drilled a 1/2″ hole in the bottom of the mast on the port side above the step and installed a rubber grommet. I ran the lower end through the grommet, slipped a piece of braided flex loom over the end to dress it up and connected the conductors to the male end of the deck connector.
At the top of the mast, the conventional wisdom is to use parts from a certain Catalina parts dealership:
But that’s over $70 before replacing the incandescent bulb with the LED array that I described in Convert Your Lights To LED Bulbs For More Light With Less Power . Being one who doesn’t always follow the conventional wisdom, I purchased the same Aqua Signal series 25 light from my local marine discounter for $10 and set out to fabricate my own mast mount tube.
I used a leftover piece of 1″ aluminum tube from my bimini project and purchased a 3/4″ length of 2-1/2″ diameter UHMW rod from my local specialty metals shop. Along with a through hole for the wiring, I drilled a 1″ diameter countersink in the bottom of the disk to accept the tube, countersank two panhead screws through the sides to attach the disk to the tube, and drilled three pilot holes in the top of the disk to mount the light.
The assembled mount is very solid. At the bottom of the tube, I cut out a profile to fit the side of the masthead casting and I drilled and tapped the masthead for two 10-24 machine screws to attach the completed light assembly.
I also drilled a 1/4″ hole through the bottom of the masthead to route the wires up through the tube and into the light base where they connect to the terminal screws.
To finish the project, I replaced the 10 watt incandescent bulb with a 3.6 watt cool white LED array (#819279) from Sailboatowners.com . The LEDs put out brighter light than the old style bulb and use a third of the power.
Now we’re properly lit while staring at the stars from our king size bed made up in the salon .
Suggested price: $163.68 $tingy Sailor cost: $61.76 Savings: $101.92
Most C-22s have a similar anchor light setup. Is yours different and how do you like it?
9 thoughts on “ how to add an anchor light for less ”.
Stingy, Just found your page. I’ll be back! After 3 months of off/on work I/we have our 76′ C-22 keel redone, bottom painted, Zincs, fashioned a new tiller handle myself, etc. Putting her in the water at Spring Creek, just S of Tallahassee, FL, soon. I put together a mid-mast LED nav/anchor light bulb replacement by soldering a $4 LED into the old base. May do the same at the rear.Not quite as bright as the orig to the sides, but visible at least 1 mile directly ahead and uses zip power. I need to run a second wire set to run a auto halogen Fog light that came mounted on the spreader. Thoughts for the run from mast base to battery? Could use a Windex… No stingy solution there, I suppose… Brian
It sounds like you’ve gotten into the stingy spirit! My hat’s off to ya for doing all that tough bottom work first before launching. I saved mine for last 🙂
Since you already have a combination steaming/anchor light, how do you switch from one to the other? The steaming light should only be forward-visible but the anchor light all around-visible and for 2 nm minimum. Your ’76 is probably like mine with only one power circuit up the mast. Is yours just one light? If so, then what I would do is how Don Casey describes in his book Sailboat Electrics Simplified and wire the one circuit to a DPDT switch with diodes to reverse the polarity of the circuit and drive both lights. One will turn on with the switch in the first position, it will turn off and the other on in the second position, and they both turn off with the switch in the middle position. No need for a second circuit from the panel to the mast.
As for a stingy Windex solution, yeah, it’s called yarn 😉 Seriously though, best wishes fixing up your C-22. Hope to see you around here some more!
Ken, when you ran the pool noodles up the mast with the wires, how did you deal with the compression tube that goes between the spreader bracket? My thought right now is that you measure and cut one section of the foam to go above the spreaders and the second below, using gorilla tape to connect the segments of pool noodle, then use a fiberglass electricians fishing rod to run the wire up the center of the foam… Is that what you did?
Pretty much but it was even easier than that – no measuring, no cutting, no taping. The mast shape compresses the sides of the pool noodles and holds them in place; at least with the size noodles I bought. Shove three 4′ noodles one at a time from the top down to the compression tube and three noodles up from the bottom. I used a length of PVC pipe as a push stick but any >8′ long stick will work.
That’s 24′ of noodles with the lower shroud compression tube in the middle of the 25′ mast. It leaves at little space at the top and bottom for routing the cable through the masthead and out the bottom hole, respectively. I also made a loop in the cable at the top with cable ties to hang the cable from the masthead compression tube so there’s no strain on the light connections.
The hardest part for me was getting the noodles past the jam cleat screws that protrude inside the bottom of the mast. Mine were seized so hard that I couldn’t unscrew them, so I used a cold chisel on the inside of the mast to cut the ends off as close as I could. The screw stubs ripped the skins of the noodles a little bit going in but not enough to matter.
It doesn’t completely silence the mast from halyard ringing, but the cable doesn’t ring at all. It’s bomber conduit and way easier to install than any other option I’ve seen. A side benefit is that it provides about 48 lbs. of flotation in the mast that will help prevent the boat from turning turtle in the event of a capsize.
I’m curious as to whether a Cat-22 mast head will fit on a Mac-22 mast. I’m rather limited on halyard space upstairs. It seems with your masthead you have a potential for four or more whera po was my ’82 Mac-22 has two halyard pulleys secured to tangs which are secured to the mast. That,’s pretty busy up there especially now that I want to mount a VHF antenna.
I don’t think it will fit, Chris. The two masts have different cross-section shapes. Your best bet might be to have one custom fabricated for you that would have any or all of the following: tabs for the main and jib halyard blocks, an extension (crane) for a spinnaker halyard, an anchor light mounting tab, a Windex mounting tab, and a VHF antenna mounting tab.
Is that woven conduit waterproof that goes from the mast to the deck? I am rewiring my mast right now and all I have left is to add the connectors and something to go around the wire while it is out of the mast. I am just wondering because if it isn’t waterproof wouldn’t it run down the wires into the connector? Thanks.
Hi, Dominic
The loom material that you see in the photo is not waterproof. It’s just chafe protection and for aesthetics. To make the connector waterproof, fill the connector shell with silicone sealant after you connect the wires and before you screw the shell together. That will help prevent corrosion of the connections and intermittent lights.
Thanks for your question, $tingy
From my days of an ODay 25 – currently have a Stuart Mariner (19ft, but also has a 25ft mast) – I thought that mast head was too high to be an effective anchor light in the coves I like to anchor in. My anchor light was not to warn ships, but to point out to boats less than 40ft that I was anchored in the cove. People on small boats don’t see the masthead light unless they are hundreds of yards away.
My solution was to hang a portable anchor light about 8-10ft above the deck on the forestay using the jib halyard. In my ODay 25 days, ACR made a 6V lantern battery light that was perfect – just enough weight to hang well, enough battery for several nights using an incandescent bulb. Wish I still had the light for the Mariner, replacing the bulb with LEDs would have been perfect.
But I do really appreciate your site – I will be ordering the hinged mast gate in the near future for the Mariner.
Fred W Mariner #4133 Sweet P Yeopim Creek NC off Albemarle Sound
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Anchor lights: are you sure you’ll be seen?
With one all-round white anchor light, as most boats have, are you sure you'll be seen? Alastair Buchan asks if it’s time to update the COLREGS
COLREGS stipulate a single white all-round light for a yacht at anchor but it can easily be lost in the backscatter Credit: Colin Work
Last October, 175 years after the rules on anchor lights were introduced, the MCA’s Safety of Navigation Committee (UKSON) considered whether they needed updating. I sat in on the meeting.
In 1840 Trinity House first insisted anchored vessels showed ‘where it can best be seen, but at a height not exceeding 20 feet above the hull, a white light in a globular lantern of eight inches in diameter and so constructed as to show a clear, uniform and unbroken light, visible all around the horizon, and at a distance of at least one mile’.
COLREGS ANNEX 1
(a) A vessel at anchor shall exhibit where it can best be seen:
(i) in the fore part, an all-round white light or one ball;
(ii) at or near the stern and at a lower level than the light prescribed in subparagraph (i) an all-round white light.
(b) A vessel of less than 50 metres in length may exhibit an all-round white light where it can best be seen instead of the lights prescribed in paragraph (a) of this Rule
(c) A vessel at anchor may , and a vessel of 100 metres and more in length shall also use the available working or equivalent lights to illuminate her decks.
Today Rule 30 (Annex 1) of the International Regulations for the Prevention of Collision at Sea says that between sunset and sunrise anchored vessels of 50m LOA or less must show from the bows an all-round white light with a range of two miles, adding ‘no other lights shall be exhibited, except such lights as cannot be mistaken for the lights specified’. No height above hull is specified, but if a second anchor light is displayed it must be lower than the one in the bows. The MCA ‘believes the current status-quo, as per Rule 30 with regard to lights and shapes, is adequate for all vessels at anchor.’
Trinity House’s choice of a fixed anchor light is understandable. The MCA’s is not. In 1840 street lighting was very scarce. Pall Mall lit the UK’s first public gas street light in 1807. The first electric street light on the Thames Embankment in 1878 proved so popular another 4,000 were added inside three years. Now the country is dazzling by night with public light.
Today anyone attempting to pick out an anchor light from amongst a mass of shore lights would wonder how a solitary fixed white light could ever be considered a sensible way of drawing attention to a vessel’s position. Surely it would be reasonable to revise the rules to reflect reality?
We put fairy lights on the topping lift and babystay and hung an LED cluster from the boom end. It’s much easier to see the yacht but is she breaking the law?
The MCA acknowledges the problem but won’t consider changing the regulations. It says ‘that the danger or possibility… of confusing shore lights with anchor lights… is always there and not just for recreational craft but any vessels for that matter, and not just in anchoring. Hence due knowledge and competence, among other topics, of the COLREG and professional judgement(s) by the navigators is always expected/required.’
We spent less than £15 and improved the visibility of a yacht at anchor
Our eyes can spot a flickering candle at 30 miles. The challenge is not seeing a light but distinguishing it from those surrounding it. It is hard to understand just what combination of knowledge, competence and professional judgement will help us to do that.
COLREGS ANNEX 2
Manoeuvring and warning signals
(d) When vessels in sight of one another are approaching each other and from any cause either vessel fails to understand the intentions or actions of the other, or is in doubt whether sufficient action is being taken by the other to avoid collision, the vessel in doubt shall immediately indicate such doubt by giving at least five short and rapid blasts on the whistle. Such signal may be supplemented by a light signal of at least five short and rapid flashes.
Flashing lights stand out but Rule 34 (Annex 2) says you can only display a flashing light if you believe that you are in immediate danger of being run down. This is leaving it late. Imminent dangers give you time to put the kettle on and think, an immediate danger demands a kneejerk reaction.
Once, the Road Vehicle Lighting Regulations (RVLR) stated ‘no vehicle will be fitted with a lamp that automatically emits a flashing light.’ En masse, cyclists chose breaking the law over dying under a car. In October 2005 flashing lights on cycles became legal.
Today, leisure craft are in a similar situation. The MCA recognises the probability of a small vessel’s lights getting swamped by others in the vicinity, but then states that making anchor lights flash isn’t suitable within the COLREG context.
COLREGS PART A
Responsibility
(a) Nothing in these Rules shall exonerate any vessel, or the owner, master or crew thereof, from the consequences of any neglect to comply with these Rules or of the neglect of any precaution which may be required by the ordinary practice of seamen, or by the special circumstances of the case.
(b) In construing and complying with these Rules due regard shall be had to all dangers of navigation and collision and to any special circumstances, including the limitations of the vessels involved, which may make a departure from these Rules necessary to avoid immediate danger.
With their choice limited to some combination of fixed lights, 19th century bureaucrats collected their pensions before agreeing on an all-round white anchor light. While bureaucrats talk, leisure craft could take advantage of Rule 2 (b) and supplement their anchor light with a flashing light. However, ‘immediate’ means happening now, and waiting until you are about to be run down before making your position unmistakeably obvious just because the rules said so is the tidy, but dangerous, possibly fatal, logic of shorebound bureaucrats.
It is fair to say that, when I expressed them, these views were not universally welcomed by the UKSON committee.
Have your say
With furling sails there is less call for foredeck work and so deck lights are becoming a rarity
Do you think the COLREGS should be changed to allow yachts at anchor to be more visible? Vote in the poll below:
• 5 years, 8 months ago
With all of its risks and rewards, boating during the day can be complicated enough, so it follows that boating at night is an even more complex task, as the darkness adds to all the factors present in brighter hours. Anchor lights, the lights that are visible when a boat is anchored at night, are a key factor in making nighttime boating both easier and safer.
If you only take your boat to a designated mooring and never plan on anchoring, then it is not necessary for you to use an anchor light. However, unexpected things always happen on the ocean, so no matter what your plan is, it is best to be prepared for nearly any possible situation.
The term “anchor light” refers only to the state the boat is in when it is being used, and has nothing to do with the physical anchor itself. If you have spent some time on the water, you have undoubtedly seen at least one — many of them look like a light on a stick, to put it plainly. On sailboats, anchor lights are placed at the top of the mast, while anchor lights on a motorboat are placed near the bow or stern. Lights for this purpose are increasingly in the form of LED lights, which have less of a drain on the battery. If you are concerned about battery drain, another option is to purchase lights that are charged with solar energy so you can power them up during the day and turn them on at night. Make sure that the charge will last through the night, though!
As with anything that involves the safety of boaters, there are regulations surrounding what types of anchor lights are to be used and how they are to be used.
The types and numbers of anchor lights that you must display vary depending on the type of boat that you have. Anchor lights must be all-around white lights, which means that the bulb cannot at any point be restricted. This means that the key to placing an anchor light is to put it where it is visible for 360 degrees. Anchor lights must be placed higher than any other navigational lights, which is the reason that many are placed on a steel pole.
Vessels under 50 meters must display one white all-around anchor light on the highest point of the boat, which must be visible for two miles when visibility is clear. If your vessel is over 100 meters, you must display the light on the masthead or other highest point, in addition to other lights that illuminate your decks so that the shape and size of your boat can be clearly discerned.
Sailboats with masthead anchor lights may also want to consider an additional cockpit light as a safety measure, as boats that are low to the water may on occasion not have a line of visibility to the masthead and as a result could come into contact with your boat.
Sometimes having an anchor light turned on many seem like an unnecessary waste of power, or if you are in a designated anchorage even perhaps silly. Think of it instead as a liability issue — if anyone crashes into your boat during the night, whether it is a dinghy or a supertanker, you are at fault if you do not have an anchor light. Boats are expensive enough to begin with; you do not want to risk having to pay for damages if someone else caused them.
In some specially designated anchorages, it is not necessary to have an anchor light. These anchorages have been determined by the Secretary of Homeland Security and are not just anchorages maintained by a particular town or club, so never assume that an anchorage will not require you to have an anchor light.
Whether or not the anchorage you are using requires you to have an anchor light, it is always better to be safe, particularly in an environment as untamed as the ocean. No matter what size or type of boat you have, you should always have an anchor light to use if necessary. As with many other components of your boat, regularly check to make sure the anchor light is approved by the Coast Guard, so you can be sure you are getting the best product.
May 20, 2022 10 min read
If you're new to boating, you may have heard the term "anchor light" and wondered what it means. Simply put, an anchor light is a type of navigation light that is used to indicate the position of a stationary vessel at anchor. It is required by law in most countries and is an important safety feature for boaters who anchor at night.
Understanding anchor lights is an essential part of boating safety. Navigation lights are used to signal the position and movement of a vessel to other boats, and anchor lights are specifically designed to signal that a vessel is anchored and not moving. There are different types of navigation lights, but the anchor light is the only one that is required to be displayed when a boat is at anchor.
An anchor light is a type of light that is used to signal the location of a vessel at anchor. It is typically a white light that is mounted at the top of the vessel's mast. The purpose of the anchor light is to make the vessel visible to other vessels in the vicinity, especially at night.
The anchor light is required by law when a vessel is at anchor between sunset and sunrise. The light must be visible from all directions and must be of sufficient intensity to be seen by other vessels at a distance of at least two nautical miles.
The all-round white light is the most common type of anchor light. It is a white light that shines in all directions. The all-round white light is required for vessels less than 50 meters in length, while vessels over 50 meters in length must also display an additional masthead light.
In summary, the anchor light is a vital safety feature that helps to prevent collisions between vessels at anchor. The all-round white light is the most common type of anchor light, and it is required by law for vessels at anchor between sunset and sunrise.
Navigation lights come in different types , each serving a specific purpose on a vessel. In this section, we will explore two types of navigation lights: sidelights and stern lights.
Sidelights are navigation lights that are mounted on the port and starboard sides of a vessel. These lights are typically red and green, respectively, and are used to signal the direction in which the vessel is traveling. The red light is on the port side, and the green light is on the starboard side.
When viewed from the front of the vessel, the red light should be on the left, and the green light should be on the right. Sidelights are essential when navigating in low visibility conditions, such as at night or in foggy weather.
Stern lights are navigation lights that are mounted on the stern or back of a vessel. These lights are typically white and are used to signal the presence of a vessel to other vessels. Stern lights are also used to indicate the direction in which a vessel is traveling.
When viewed from the front of the vessel, the stern light should be in the center. Stern lights are crucial when navigating in low visibility conditions, such as at night or in foggy weather.
In conclusion, understanding the different types of navigation lights is essential for safe and effective navigation on a vessel. Sidelights and stern lights are just two examples of the many types of navigation lights available, each playing a critical role in ensuring the safety of all those on board.
When it comes to anchor lights, visibility is key. Your anchor light must be visible from all directions, including dead ahead, and must be an unbroken light. This means that the light must be visible at all times and cannot be obstructed by anything on your vessel.
To ensure maximum visibility, it is recommended to mount your anchor light as high as possible on your vessel. This will allow the light to be seen from a greater distance and reduce the risk of it being obstructed by anything on your vessel.
It is also important to choose a light with a brightness that is appropriate for the size of your vessel. A light that is too dim may not be visible from a sufficient distance, while a light that is too bright may be blinding to other vessels.
Finally, it is important to regularly check and maintain your anchor light to ensure that it is functioning properly and is visible at all times. This includes checking the bulb, wiring, and any other components that may affect the light's visibility.
By following these guidelines, you can ensure that your anchor light is visible and compliant with regulations, helping to keep you and other vessels safe while at anchor.
When it comes to powerboats , the type of anchor light used depends on the size of the vessel. Small power boats, such as those under 12 meters, typically use a single all-around white light. This light must be visible from 360 degrees and must be placed at the highest point on the boat. Larger power boats, on the other hand, may require multiple anchor lights, including a masthead light and a stern light. These lights are typically required for boats that are over 20 meters in length.
Sailboats also require anchor lights, but the type of light used depends on whether the boat is under sail or at anchor. When a sailboat is under sail, it is required to display a combination of lights that include a red and green sidelight and a white stern light. When the sailboat is at anchor, it is required to display an all-around white light that is visible from 360 degrees.
Sailing vessels that are over 50 meters in length may require additional anchor lights, such as a masthead light and a stern light. These lights are typically required for larger vessels to ensure that they are visible to other boats in the area.
Overall, regardless of the type of vessel, it is important to ensure that the anchor lights are working properly and are visible to other boats in the area. This is especially important at night or in low visibility conditions where it may be difficult to see other boats.
Inland rules.
If you are operating a vessel on inland waters, it is important to know the regulations and requirements for anchor lights. The Inland Rules specify that any vessel at anchor must display a white light visible for 360 degrees around the vessel. This light must be placed where it can best be seen and must be lit from sunset to sunrise.
If you are operating a vessel on international waters, you must comply with the International Regulations for Preventing Collisions at Sea (COLREGS). Rule 30 of the COLREGS specifies that any vessel at anchor must display a white light visible for 360 degrees around the vessel. This light must be placed where it can best be seen and must be lit from sunset to sunrise.
According to the Code of Federal Regulations (CFR), all vessels operating on United States waters must comply with the requirements for anchor lights. The United States Coast Guard (USCG) enforces these regulations and can issue fines for non-compliance.
In summary, if you are operating a vessel at anchor, it is important to understand the regulations and requirements for anchor lights. Whether you are on inland waters or international waters, you must comply with the appropriate rules and regulations. By displaying a white light visible for 360 degrees around your vessel, you can help ensure the safety of yourself and others on the water.
When it comes to anchor lights, LED lights are the most popular option due to their energy efficiency and long lifespan. They are also durable and can withstand harsh weather conditions. It is important to choose LED lights that are specifically designed for marine use to ensure they meet safety standards and regulations.
Anchor lights are typically powered by a boat's battery. It is important to ensure that the battery is in good condition and has enough power to last throughout the night. To conserve power, it is recommended to use a low-wattage LED light and to turn off unnecessary electronics. It is also important to regularly check the wiring and connections to ensure they are secure and not corroded.
Overall, anchor lights are an essential safety feature for boats, especially when anchored in busy or low visibility areas. Proper installation, maintenance, and testing are crucial to ensure they function properly when needed. By choosing LED lights and ensuring the battery and wiring are in good condition, you can have peace of mind knowing your anchor light will reliably guide you through the night.
If you're having issues with your anchor light , there are several things you can try to troubleshoot the problem. Here are some common issues and solutions:
If your anchor light is blocked by something, it won't be visible to other boats and could be a safety hazard. Check to make sure there is nothing obstructing the light, such as a sail or other equipment. If the obstruction is unavoidable, you may need to move the light to a different location.
If your anchor light is not turning on, it may be disabled. Check to make sure the light is properly connected and that the wiring is not damaged. If the wiring is damaged, it will need to be repaired or replaced.
If your anchor light is turned on but not working, there may be an issue with the bulb or the wiring. Check to make sure the bulb is securely in place and that the wiring is not damaged. If the bulb is burned out, it will need to be replaced.
If your anchor light is taking a long time to turn on, there may be an issue with the power source or the wiring. Check to make sure the power source is strong enough to support the light and that the wiring is not damaged. If the power source is weak, you may need to use a different power source or install a new battery.
If you're still having issues with your anchor light, consult the manufacturer's reference ID or user manual for further troubleshooting steps. You may also want to consult with a professional electrician or boating expert for assistance.
When it comes to boating, safety should always be your top priority. An anchor light is an important safety feature that helps other boaters see you in low-light conditions. By law, if your boat is anchored or moored between sunset and sunrise, you must display an anchor light.
Not only does an anchor light help prevent collisions, it also signals to other boaters that your vessel is restricted in its maneuverability. This is especially important in narrow waterways or areas with heavy boat traffic.
In addition, reduced visibility due to weather conditions can make it difficult for other boaters to see your vessel. An anchor light can help you avoid collisions by making your boat more visible.
When displaying an anchor light, it's important to ensure that it is visible from all directions. The light should be placed at the highest point on your boat and should not be obstructed by any equipment or other objects.
By following these safety considerations, you can help ensure a safe and enjoyable boating experience for yourself and other boaters on the water.
If you want to learn more about anchor lights, there are many resources available to you. Here are a few that you may find helpful:
Overall, there are many resources available to help you learn more about anchor lights and how to use them effectively. Whether you are a boater or a web developer, there is something for everyone.
What is the purpose of an anchor light on a boat.
An anchor light is a white light that is used to help other boats identify your boat when it is anchored at night. It is required by law to be displayed between sunset and sunrise, and it should be visible from all directions.
The height requirements for an anchor light depend on the length of your boat. For boats less than 50 feet, the light should be at least 3.3 feet above the highest point of the boat. For boats over 50 feet, the light should be at least 6.6 feet above the highest point of the boat.
An anchor light is used when a boat is at anchor, while a masthead light is used when a boat is underway. An anchor light is a white light that is visible from all directions, while a masthead light is a green and red light that is visible only from the front and back of the boat.
Yes, you are required by law to have an anchor light on your boat if you are anchoring at night. It is important to have an anchor light to help prevent collisions with other boats.
The best types of anchor lights for boats are LED lights, as they are energy-efficient and have a long lifespan. They are also bright and visible from a long distance.
Emergency anchor lights are required to be displayed when a boat is in distress and needs assistance. The light should be visible from all directions and should be a white light.
Testers take a look at six bulbs and lanterns from the marine led navigation light market..
When it comes to navigation lights aboard sailboats, brighter is definitely better. And our latest tests of LED nav lights proved that more light can be made with less energy. In fact, we found that replacing a conventional incandescent bulb with a light-emitting diode (LED) of similar luminosity can result in up to a 90-percent savings in energy consumed over a given period of time.
Practical Sailor’ s previous evaluations of navigation lights (September 2005 and Jan. 15, 2002) were tests of tri-color
Photos by Ralph Naranjo
masthead lights, sidelights, sternlights, and all-around white lights.
For this review, we narrowed the test field and focused solely on LED tri-color navigation lights (sidelights and a stern light combined in a single fixture) because of the under-sail connotation. They are most often used when the engine is off and the alternator(s) is providing no energy boost to the battery bank. This is when miserly current consumption is most appreciated.
LED lights come in all sizes and shapes, and it has been their monumental improvement in efficiency that has made the technology so appealing to energy-constrained sailors.
In the past, the most popular means of meeting the U.S. Coast Guard’s navigation light requirements for boats under 65 feet (see “Nav Light Requirements,” below) was to use an Aqua Signal Series 40 tri-color lamp housing with its long-filament incandescent bulb. Its 25-watt energy appetite not only puts a significant load on the house battery bank, but it requires a heavier-gauge wire be run up the spar in order to avoid an energy-robbing voltage drop. Swapping out the incandescent bulb for an LED drops power consumption significantly and yields just as bright of a light. During a 10-hour night sail, this results in reducing current consumption from about 20 amp-hours down to a scan’t 2 amp-hours. This savings adds up, and the extra cost of the LED bulb or light will pay for itself in longevity and energy savings.
LED Evolution
Since the late 1960s, LEDs have followed a trend that amounts to almost a doubling of light output every 36 months. (If Wall Street had done the same, a $100 investment made in 1969 would today be worth over $500,000.)
Skipping all the esoteric physics and getting down to basics leaves us with one important concept to grasp: By passing a current through certain semiconductors (materials with only a few electron holes), the electron flow instigates photon release—or more simply put, light energy is emitted. Modern LEDs comprise an anode (+) and cathode (-) that meet in a tiny cup-like reflector that contains an “n” and a “p” layer of semiconductor material.
In order to achieve white or colored light, phosphor coatings are used. Another significant breakthrough was the prism-like lens and epoxy-sealed cavity that bundles up many of these semiconductors. The resulting “bulb” reflects and refracts the light energy produced, delivering a color-controlled beam. The plasma-like brilliance of a single-source light creates lens and reflector challenges that each light manufacturer has to deal
with. Some makers shape a single beam with lens elements while others use an array of multiple smaller LEDs.
What We Tested
Each of the six LED tri-color masthead lights we tested for this report took a different approach to implementing the LED technology. The test field included three LED lanterns and three LED bulbs.
From Orca Green Marine (OGM), maker of the top choice among tri-colors in the 2005 Practical Sailor test, we reviewed the latest USCG 2-nautical-mile approved tri-color. The other tested lanterns were self-contained tri-color/anchor light combos from Signal Mate and Lopolight.
Among the bulbs we tested was the Lunasea, a sealed, waterproof LED lamp comprising four green, six red, and six white LEDs. From the LED Shop in Queensland, Australia, we tested the Bay15D white LED bulb with 15 diodes. The supplier recommends its use as a low-consumption (2 watts vs. 25 watts) replacement bulb for the Aqua Signal 40 incandescent. The second sealed bulb we tested was from Dr. LED, and it is third-party certified to U.S. Coast Guard standards.
LED LANTERNS
Boat owners who don’t already have a masthead tri-color light, or who plan to replace an old one—hardware and all—would do well to consider an LED lantern.
Orca Green Marine
OGM Inc.’s USCG-approved (third-party tested) tri-color/anchor light (LXTA-12v) squeezes an amazing amount of light from a minimal amount of current (0.3 amps @ 12 volts-DC).
The well-sealed, nicely machined housing and large lenses keep the LEDs in direct line of sight, regardless of heel or the viewer’s proximity. Hard, anodized endcaps and Lexan outer lens elements form a tough, water-tight seal. Its internal
electronic components are potted in a dielectric sealant, and the lantern comes with a well-sealed pigtail connector.
The manufacturer claims a 50,000-hour full brightness LED life and offers a two-year warranty on the $340 lantern.
Testers’ main concern that arose during testing was that the OGM lantern produced the most RFI of all the gear we tested. Moving the handheld VHF radio to within 14 inches of the light obliterated radio reception.
Bottom line: The OGM lantern is the least expensive in its category, and it proved to be a well-made light. However, its RFI test results held it back.
This expensive, well-designed, and carefully manufactured LED tri-color/anchor light offers a multiple diode approach to illuminating each sector of coverage. The lamp’s geometry focuses individual LEDs in narrower beams and uses 36 to cover each colored zone and 44 in the white zone. In addition to adding redundancy with circuitry that allows individual diodes to fail without taking out the entire cluster, the design eliminated the hotspot inherent in tri-color lights that use single-point light sources for each sector.
This light offers a green that’s really green (see “Shades of Green,” page 14), a dead-ahead aspect with minimal overlap, and a crisp transition to the red zone. The Lopolight also sports a rugged, well-sealed housing that’s fully submersible.
Its current consumption is a tiny bit more than the most energy efficient in this group, but the value of having the light continue to work even if one or more diodes give up the ghost is a big plus.
At $689, the Lopolight was the most expensive product of all those we tested, but it also had the least RFI. It comes with a five-year warranty.
Bottom line: If quality construction and superior performance are your priorities—and cost isn’t a concern—the Lopolight will fit the bill. It gets the nod as Practical Sailor’s Best Choice.
Signal Mate
Signal Mate products are designed and manufactured by Maryland-based Kimberlite Assemblers Inc. The company sent us a pre-production version of its 2-nautical-mile tri-color lantern for testing.
The searing bright lantern scored high marks for energy efficiency. Its 0.3 amp draw at 12 volts DC compared to some of the more expensive lanterns.
The Signal Mate incorporates a finned alloy base that functions
as a heat sink and houses the driver and diodes within a polycarbonate cylindrical tube. Its endcaps and electronics are sealed and bedded in Dow Tough Gel.
Its cylindrical shape makes it well suited for masthead mounting. The light output did not appear hampered at all by the unit’s comparably small lenses, even at varying angles of heel.
The design, with a single light source per sector, created a white hotspot, but from 50 to 100 yards away, it was undetectable. Hotspots, a bright white spot that occurs when a single-point white light source illuminates a colored faceted lens, are common to this design.
Just before going to press with this review, Signal Mate sent us its new production version of this lamp. Like the pre-production unit, the LED circuitry is enclosed in a polycarbonate cylinder, but it now incorporates O-ring seals and 3M 5200 adhesive to better cope with thermal expansion and contraction. Heat dissipation and RFI suppression have been improved, and the overall fit and finish have been raised a notch. The light is certified to USCG and American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC)-16 standards.
Bottom line: The $359 Signal Mate tri-color is a cost-effective option with a good five-year warranty, and the new version boasts some necessary improvements.
The new breed of LED bulbs can add efficiency to those old Aqua Signal, Hella, and Perko incandescent nav lights that have been serving boats for decades. These plug-and-play conversions from incandescent to much more efficient LED technology are capturing market share, and the degree of this success has inspired Aqua Signal to come out with its own single-diode LED light and a new line of LED products. For those with older lamps such as the venerable Aqua Signal 40 tri-color, the following three bulb options represent good examples of what’s available in the realm of LED conversions.
The Dr. LED Polar Star 40 replacement bulb for the Aqua Signal 40 lantern comes with an interesting note. According to the Seattle firm, “a white LED should not be used behind colored lenses.” And to that end, its LED replacement bulb has three distinct color-enhanced sectors indigenous to the bulb itself. These are not stand-alone red, green, and white sectors, but instead are color-enhancing segments that ensure that red is red and green is a bright and deep shade of green. This reduced the bulb’s hotspot.
The bulb is designed in the U.S., made in China, and meets the 2-nautical-mile visibility, chromaticity, and other demands of the ABYC/USCG standards. It was the lowest current-consuming light in our test (0.1 amps), and though not the
brightest, it was visible and color recognizable at the 2-mile range.
Bottom line: Middle of the pack price-wise, this $50 current miser gets a Practical Sailor Budget Buy among LED bulbs for conversions.
Lunasea Lights
This well-sealed, wedge shaped, waterproof bulb uses separate LEDs for each color zone. The red sector held six LEDs, and the green four. Light-meter readings indicated that the red sector was a bit brighter than the green sector during tests. At distances beyond 100 yards, the discrepancy was not noticeable visually. Both segments could be seen at the 2-nautical-mile range.
This bulb seemed to only need a clear housing because of the excellent chromaticity match, but without being placed in a tri-lens housing, it had a rather large overlap of red and green. We noted that the red and green (bow-on aspect) covered an arc of more than 20 degrees. But by placing the tri-color lens over the bulb, the overlap was brought into an acceptable 10-degree range, creating a bright, very distinguishable tri-color light.
The Lunasea bulb was the only one in its group with the ability to keep shining even if one of the multiple diodes failed.
Bottom line: One of the brightest LEDs tested, the Lunasea light gets the Practical Sailor Recommended pick among bulbs for its top performance and lifetime warranty, the only test product to offer one.
Distributed by the Australia-based LED Shop, the white BAY-15D bulb we tested was a cluster of 15 diodes in pentagonal array of three vertical diodes per segment. This bright-white light makes a superb anchor light, and the LED Shop also recommends it as a replacement bulb for the Aqua Signal Series 40 tri-color light.
In our testing, it provided a bright red and green sector, but its colors were not as saturated as the color-specific bulbs by Dr. LED and Lunasea.
Testers’ biggest concern was the fact the bulb isn’t properly sealed. This does afford better heat dissipation, a key factor in LED longevity, but we prefer sealed bulbs.
However, the BAY-15D’s $27 price tag, its brightness and
minimal RFI make it a bargain as an anchor light bulb.
Bottom line: Although inexpensive and a good performer, the BAY-15D was held back by its lack of a good seal.
Which version of the OGM was tested for this review?
It would be helpful if you added the part numbers of the specific product that you’re testing. For example, when I went to the Lopolight website, I couldn’t find the product you tested. I’m a little disappointed that you didn’t test any trilights with the strobe or flash function. Perhaps I’ll keep my 20-year old Hella.
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Could someone set me straight regarding the differences between a steaming light, mast light, and anchor light (their intention, where they should be located, and when to use them)?
Lights Alsteaming light: about two thirds the way up the mast, faces forward (see reference books for coverage - 225 degrees?) used when motoring (NOT sailing) at night; use running lights all the time at night. When you're sailing (only under sail) at night, turn off the steaming light. Use only when the motor is on (even if you're motorsailing) at night.mast light: I assume you mean the "downlight" that is usually built into the steaming light, called combination steaming mast lights), only used to light up your foredeckanchor light: top of the mast, all around (360 degrees) fixture, for when you're anchored. Do not ever use when moving.
Mast and Anchor Lightss A steaming light is used when you are using your engine in the dark, fog, etc. It tells other boats that you are a "power" boat. An anchor light is only used when you are at anchor. It is the light at the top of your mast. The mast light, if I understand your term correctly, is used to illuminate the deck when you need to see there. The best way to understand these lights is to go out at night and try them.
A bit complicated I went to the boatsmart course and initiated a big discussion about this. Seems even the instructors have some problems with it. I copied my conclusion from the archives:The (Coast Guard ) manual requiress white MASTHEAD LIGHTS on all vessels less than 20 meters, including powerboats. They are defined as "white lights that shine 225 degrees forward". (As opposed to ALL AROUND LIGHTS (360 degrees) SIDELIGHTS (red port, green starboard) and STERNLIGHTS (135 degrees aft).It does mention that on sailboats masthead lights "are seldom at the top of the mast, but partway down".So, it seems, by law, that we as sailors must have a white masthead light, but it cannot be used while under sail power.So, on my hunter, I have a RUNNING LIGHTS switch (which is SIDE and STERN lights)...I have STEAMING lights (which is the MASTHEAD light)...and an ANCHOR light, which must be the ALL AROUND LIGHT.While sailing at night, I will have only the RUNNING LIGHTS on, when I look up I will see no lights anywhere on the mast.Hope this helps !
Reasons? Any power vessel under 20 meters must show a white light that is visible 360 degrees (all around). On a typical powerboat, this light is on a pole at the stern, (like on a bass boat) or perhaps on a mast on the cabin top. One of the purposes of the white light is to mark the stern of the boat relative to the sidelights near the bow. That way when you see the red light (or green) and the white light, you know which direction the boat is pointed. If the boat is large with structures on deck like a fly bridge that might block the light when viewed from forward, the light is sometimes split between a stern light and a forward facing light near the center of the boat (like on the mast of a sailboat). Sailboats under sail alone don’t show the forward facing part of the “all around” white light. So, if you see only red or green lights with no white you can be sure you’re seeing a sailboat headed toward you that is restricted in its’ ability to maneuver. This is a dangerous situation and you may need to make allowances for giving right of way. If you see either red or green with white, it’s a safer situation. You may be seeing a powerboat coming toward you or a sailboat moving away from you. As the sailboat is moving away, it posses no threat and the powerboat may need to give way to you.All vessels when anchored are to show an “all around” white light with no other colored lights. We sailors have the single light at the top of the mast for this. Powerboats have to have a separate switch for the red & green or set up a special anchor light.S/V Anodyne
Dennis, good reasons but what differentiates a sailboat under sail power only headed away from you from a power boat doing the same? Your answer implies that you keep an aft-facing white light on in this instance, and I'm not sure it's technically correct. What I get out of my research is that under sail alone, only the running lights are used. I would like to be sure, even though I like your logic, and practicality.
If I may shed some light (no pun intended) As Dennis correctly pointed out, a side light (red or green) with a white light above means a vessel approaching under power and a single colored light means a vessel approaching under sail only. However, at any given time only ONE light should be visible on a vessel under sail because of the sectors that each light covers. When moving aft around a vessel under sail, the colored side running light should disappear just as the white stern light appears.For extra visibility and improved electrical efficiency at sea, some sailboats have a masthead tricolor lit by a single bulb. However since the steaming light must be above the running lights, the tricolor must be turned off when steaming and a second set of running lights near deck level has to be lit.PeterH23 "Raven"
Lights Peter and Dennis absolutely correct. Just goes to show how confusing such a 'simple' thing as turning your lights on can be!Scott...NOTHING different between a sailboat or a powerboat less than 50m seen moving away from you as long as you are in the 135deg arc immediately astern. As soon as you move ahead of this the sailboat would show only a single red or green light whereas the power boat would also show the white steaming light as Peter says at the higher level.
Thanks, I stand corrected My "running lights" include the stern light, so a white light will be visible from aft. I guess the part that gets me is that there is no light on the mast while under sail, unless you have that tricolor setup. It seems to defy logic to me, as you'd think to most easily identify a sailboat there would be a light somewhere high above, indicating a mast. Thanks for setting me straight fellows.
Thanks! I'm glad to see that it wasn't just me that feels confused about this. To summarize everyones comments/concensus:Running lights (red/green/aft white) ON all the time at night while moving.360 degree white light on top of mast ON only while motoring or anchored.225 degrees white light (pointing aft) on top of mast ON when sailing.Correct??
Not exactly Al, I would modify your statement as follows:Running lights (red/green/aft white) ON all the time at night while moving under sail or motor.360 degree white light on top of mast ON only while anchored at night.225 degrees white light (pointing foward) in middle of mast ON when motoring at night.
Night time... "Night time" is defined as "one half hour before sunset to one half hour after sunrise"Ligths should also be used during periods of restricted visibility (visibility less than 1 mile)Smooth sailing,~~ __/) ~~Marc
anchor light Good summary FredOK just to add a little more confusion...what would be wrong with using all round anchor light at masthead whilst motoring, together with red and green lights forward as long as aft white light can be independently switched off?Good to see the same confusions seem to occur both sides of the pond LOL and lets NOT get into buoyage hehe.
Lights Although it can be anywhere (acutally should be no more than 20 feet above the hull), the anchor light is usually at the masthead. The anchor light shows 360°. The anchor light is required when the boat is anchored at night in an area that is not designated as a special anchorage on the chart of the area. The steaming light is usually mounted on the front of the mast, and is used in conjunction with the red and green running lights when the vessel is operated under power (as opposed to using sail power only). The steaming light is supposed to show through a total of 20 points (10 points on each side of the bow). This equates to about 150° on each side of the bow.The mast light you refer to is often called a spreader light. This is used to illuminate the foredeck for handling anchors, sails, etc. at night.If you are going to operate at night, it is probably also a good idea to get to know the lights carried by tug boats, fishing vessels, and other commercial craft.Hope this helps.Vic
For Scott and Colin The masthead tricolor is designed to make a relatively slow sailboat as visible as possible to other traffic at night because running lights at deck level can be obscured in waves. I guess the single light convention is based in tradition, when running lights were lit by oil, and the fewer open flames on board a wooden boat, the better!!.Some masthead anchor lights are made in two sectors with two lamps, one facing forward and the other aft. The aft one is lit when sailing and both are lit when powering. When anchored, both remain lit but the red/green would be doused. I had a masthead light like this and I got rid of it right away! It was a lot of weight at the masthead and the power draw with both lamps lit was 20W. It's also a pain to bang on it to get it to work when the contacts become corroded. It's so much easier just to lean over the transom! The worst part was that one night at anchor would kill the battery, and on a hot Florida night, I'd rather have the power for my Hella fan and some music.My current anchor light is an LED light on a stick hoisted to the masthead with the main halyard. I know it's not USCG approved, but to my mind it beats an approved light that goes out at 2 am. I also keep a Dietz oil-fired hurricane lamp on board as a backup. The regs don't say it has to be electric...it just has to be visible at 2 nm. Happy sailing.PeterH23 "Raven"
Roger,Peter I just read in SAIL that those led's are coming a long way and will probably be the lights of the future. Adiing the masthead tricolors will have to go on the list, but only after an Autopilot, Dinghy, etc!
Expected release: 20th Aug 2024
This amazing 2-wire led lamp is a tri-color, 360 degree all-round anchor light, and sos strobe in a single compact fixture..
While this looks like an ordinary anchor light fixture, proprietary LED technology makes it function as a Tri-Mode fixture. Switching between an LED anchor light, an LED tri-color, and a high intensity emergency strobe light has never been easier with our simple 2-wire design. Circuitry based operation allows for all modes to work with your existing wiring and switch.
A built-in dusk to dawn photocell turns the anchor light on and off to conserve power (active only in anchor light mode).
Tri-colors are used for enhanced safety by greatly enhancing visibility of your boat when sailing offshore at night. The have Red and Green (port and starboard) 112.5° sectors facing forward, on the boats center-line, and a 135° white sector facing aft. Every offshore cruiser needs one, but many cruisers forgo installing one because of the expensive fixtures and the significant hassle of additional wiring up the mast, extra fuses, switches, and deck glands needed.
Operation:
Our LED Tri-Mode has all these features in one fixture thanks to its smart LED bulb with an on-board micro-processor. Memory functions allow for the bulb to detect on/off intervals as shown in the product video. Default is the photocell anchor light mode, followed by the Tri-Color mode. The S.O.S. strobe has an additional delay required between switching to prevent inadvertent activation.
Installation:
A flexible mounting arrangement allows it to be mounted on a pole (1/2" PVC pipe), or on a flat surface using the included spacer, stainless steel screws, and nylock nuts. See pictures.
The two wires going to your existing anchor light are all that is needed. Your anchor light switch will control the modes, so there are no more wires, switches or fuses to add!
This fixture exceeds all of the requirements under COLREG 72 for both All-Around Anchor and Tri-Color use on boats up to 20 Meters.
See an independent blog review here
Our new patented LED bulb for sailboats considering adding a t...
Product reviews, write a review.
Smart tri-color anchor light.
Posted by John Bryant on 27th Oct 2023
I am very pleased with the light, I needed some help and the support from MarineBeam was very helpful and quick. It was easy to install, very bright, and draws very little power. I recommend the light and MarineBeam .
Posted by Christin Miller on 7th Jul 2023
Customer service was great. The guy on the phone answered all my questions and concerns. Product was shipped the next day. The tri light arrived in good condition.
Posted by Rick Zern on 27th Dec 2022
Works great
Posted by Keith D on 18th Oct 2022
Outstanding performance, design and value! I purchased this smart LED navigation light to replace multiple nav lights as part of our 2022 refit of a 2004 coastal cruiser. The lighting output is excellent and the smart 3-way toggling logic meant I could use the existing switches and simplify the wiring of our revamped masthead. Liked this product so much that I then bought various Marinebeam LED lights to replace all our interior ceiling halogen lights and exterior deckhouse lights. Highly recommend this company and products!
Led tri-color and anchor light combination bulb.
Led tri-color and all-around anchor navigation stack light.
Led anchor light with photocell sensor.
Led all-around anchor light.
IMAGES
COMMENTS
The Inland Rules have specific requirements as to anchor lights. That rule is quoted below, as is the USCG site reference. A 360-degree white all-around masthead light with two-mile visibility normally fulfills this requirement for most pleasure boats, but familiarize yourself with and follow the rule. Wire gauge, length of wiring, connections ...
Taking all the anchor lights out on the editor's boat late one June evening, we picked up a buoy in Calshot Bay and hung the lights in the foretriangle of the yacht, around 2.5m above deck level. At first we tried lighting five of them at once, to see if we could compare them together, but 150m away the light started to merge into one bright ...
As such a power boat, and by extension all sailboats, MUST, without question show one green light on the starboard bow and one red light on the port bow and one all around white light or lights while operating in reduced visibility. These lights should shine at all 360 degrees of visibility with the bow lights shining at an angle of dead ahead ...
The basic rule is that sidelights and a stern light are required. Permissible variations to this rule appear below. Sailboats less than 20m (65.7') can substitute a tricolor light for separate sidelights and stern light—or a bi-color light and a stern light may be substituted. Sailboats less than 7m (23') shall, if practicable, exhibit lights ...
Pedestal Mount LED All-Round Anchor Navigation Light. Pedestal Mount LED Anchor/Masthead 3NM Navigation Pole Light. Series 5500 Waketower LED All-Round Navigation Light. 2010 Fold-Down Anchor Light, 2 Nautical Miles Visibility. NaviLED 360 Pro LED All-Round Anchor Navigation Light, White Housing, 2 Nautical Miles Visibility.
In the Colregs, Rule 30 (b) simply states that for a vessel under 50m LOA 'an all-round white light should be placed where best seen'. Traditionally, this always meant hanging it in the foretriangle. An anchor light at the masthead was never a consideration until a couple of decades ago. Anyway, the purpose of the anchor light is not to ...
Powered vessels and sailing vessels at anchor must display anchor lights. An anchor light for a boat less than 50 meters in length is an all-around white light visible for 2 miles exhibited where it can best be seen (see Figure 7). Figure 8.
I drilled a 1/2″ hole in the bottom of the mast on the port side above the step and installed a rubber grommet. I ran the lower end through the grommet, slipped a piece of braided flex loom over the end to dress it up and connected the conductors to the male end of the deck connector. Anchor light deck connection.
Even sailboat lights with the broader beam angle dim when you get within a few boat lengths. Additionally, this means that anchor lights that meet only part (a) vertical sector (5 degrees) must be mounted within a few degrees of plumb to avoid black-out zones. Even sailboat lights meeting part (b) appear dim when rigged out of plumb. EMERGENCY ...
COLREGS ANNEX 1. Rule 30. (a) A vessel at anchor shall exhibit where it can best be seen: (i) in the fore part, an all-round white light or one ball; (ii) at or near the stern and at a lower level than the light prescribed in subparagraph (i) an all-round white light. (b) A vessel of less than 50 metres in length may exhibit an all-round white ...
This means that the key to placing an anchor light is to put it where it is visible for 360 degrees. Anchor lights must be placed higher than any other navigational lights, which is the reason that many are placed on a steel pole. Vessels under 50 meters must display one white all-around anchor light on the highest point of the boat, which must ...
An anchor light is a type of light that is used to signal the location of a vessel at anchor. It is typically a white light that is mounted at the top of the vessel's mast. The purpose of the anchor light is to make the vessel visible to other vessels in the vicinity, especially at night. The anchor light is required by law when a vessel is at ...
The test field included three LED lanterns and three LED bulbs. From Orca Green Marine (OGM), maker of the top choice among tri-colors in the 2005 Practical Sailor test, we reviewed the latest USCG 2-nautical-mile approved tri-color. The other tested lanterns were self-contained tri-color/anchor light combos from Signal Mate and Lopolight.
LightArmor™ Deck Mount 2NM LED Starboard Navigation Light. Vertical Mount Fold-Down Masthead/All-Round Navigation Light. Articulating LED All-Round Navigation Pole Light 24", 2 Nautical Miles Visibility. Rub Rail Mounted LED Navigation Light Set, 3 3/8", without plug. Nothing beats a day on the water but a pleasant night cruise is a close ...
The anchor light is required when the boat is anchored at night in an area that is not designated as a special anchorage on the chart of the area. The steaming light is usually mounted on the front of the mast, and is used in conjunction with the red and green running lights when the vessel is operated under power (as opposed to using sail ...
Includes three (3) stainless steel mounting screws, and 8' of duplex 18AWG tinned wiring to allow power connection to be made within the mast or below decks, if desirable. Specifications: Voltage: 9-33VDC. Power: 1 Watt (0.09A at 12V) Visibility: 3NM. Housing Color: Black. Output Color: Cool White (6,500K) Ingress Protection: IP67 (fully sealed)
An anchor light just has to be a visible all around white light. On a sailboat, they are typically at the masthead. In the past, they were simply kerosene lamps hung in the rigging. The mast light breaker would normally supply downward-facing lights on the underside of the lower spreaders, or some other location in the mast where they can ...
IP67 USCG Certified 3NM Waterproof LED Anchor Navigation Light with Photocell. Toggle menu (843) 885-8644 ... This light is a perfect solution for our boat's electrical system. Our boat uses lithium rechargeables, so its voltage is unusual at about 28.4 volts DC. This light runs flawlessly on 12 volts, 24 volts, and our system at 28.4.
An economical 2NM LED All-Around Anchor Light fixture navigation light intended to be mounted on the top of the mast on larger sailboats. It replaces the Aqua Signal Series 40 type anchor lights, as it is of similar size and height. Prefitted with a user-replaceable Marinebeam constant-current 10-30VDC BAY15d high-output LED bulb and 8" of ...
Smart Switching LED Tri-Color / Anchor / SOS Strobe Light, aqua signal, sailboat, hella, mast, perko. Toggle menu (843) 885-8644 Gift Certificate; ... THIS AMAZING 2-WIRE LED LAMP IS A TRI-COLOR, 360 DEGREE ALL-ROUND ANCHOR LIGHT, AND SOS STROBE IN A SINGLE COMPACT FIXTURE.
12 Inches Anchor Light Boat Stern Light Waterproof IP67, White Fold Down Marine Navigation Lights for Boats LED for Pontoon, Jon Boat and Bass Boat (12-24V) 4.6 out of 5 stars. 150. 1K+ bought in past month. $15.99 $ 15. 99. Typical: $17.99 $17.99. FREE delivery Wed, Aug 7 on $35 of items shipped by Amazon.