yacht rigging replacement

Currency: GBP

• Worldwide Delivery

Mooring Warps and Mooring Lines

• LIROS 3 Strand Polyester Mooring Warps
• LIROS Braided Dockline Mooring Warps
• LIROS Classic Mooring Warps
• LIROS Green Wave 3 Strand Mooring Warps
• LIROS Handy Elastic Mooring Warps
• LIROS Moorex12 Mooring Warps
• LIROS Octoplait Polyester Mooring Warps
• LIROS Polypropylene Floating Mooring Warps
• LIROS Super Yacht Mooring Polyester Docklines
• Marlow Blue Ocean Dockline

Mooring Accessories

• Mooring Cleats and Fairleads
• Mooring Compensators
• Mooring Shackles
• Mooring Swivels

Mooring Strops

• LIROS 3 Strand Nylon Mooring Strops
• LIROS Anchorplait Nylon Mooring Strops
• Small Boat and RIB Mooring Strops

Mooring Bridles

• V shape Mooring Bridles
• Y shape Mooring Bridles

Mooring Strops with chain centre section

• 3 Strand / Chain / 3 Strand
• Anchorplait / Chain / Anchorplait

Bonomi Mooring Cleats

• Majoni Fenders
• Polyform Norway Fenders
• Dock Fenders
• Fender Ropes and Accessories
• Ocean Inflatable Fenders

Mooring Buoys

Max power bow thrusters.

• Coastline Bow Thruster Accessories

50 metre / 100 metre Rates - Mooring

Mooring information.

• Mooring Warps Size Guide
• Mooring Lines - LIROS Recommended Diameters
• Mooring Rope Selection Guide
• Mooring Warp Length and Configuration Guide
• How to estimate the length of a single line Mooring Strop
• Mooring Ropes - Break Load Chart
• Mooring Compensator Advisory
• Rope Cockling Information
• Fender Size Guide
• Majoni Fender Guide
• Polyform Norway Fender Inflation Guide

Custom Build Instructions

• More Article and Guides >

Anchor Warps Spliced to Chain

• LIROS 3 Strand Nylon Spliced to Chain
• LIROS 3 Strand Polyester Spliced to Chain
• LIROS Anchorplait Nylon Spliced to Chain
• LIROS Octoplait Polyester Spliced to Chain

Anchor Warps

• Leaded Anchor Warp
• LIROS 3 Strand Nylon Anchor Warps
• LIROS 3 Strand Polyester Anchor Warps
• LIROS Anchorplait Nylon Anchor Warps
• LIROS Octoplait Polyester Anchor Warps
• Aluminium Anchors
• Galvanised Anchors
• Stainless Steel Anchors

Calibrated Anchor Chain

• Cromox G6 Stainless Steel Chain
• G4 Calibrated Stainless Steel Anchor Chain
• Lofrans Grade 40
• MF DAMS Grade 70
• MF Grade 40
• Titan Grade 43

Clearance Chain

Anchoring accessories.

• Anchor Connectors
• Anchor Trip Hooks and Rings
• Anchoring Shackles
• Bow Rollers and Fittings
• Chain and Anchor Stoppers
• Chain Links and Markers

50 / 100 metre Rates - Anchoring

Chain snubbers.

• Chain Hooks, Grabs and Grippers
• Chain Snubbing Bridles
• Chain Snubbing Strops

Drogue Warps and Bridles

• Lewmar Windlasses
• Lofrans Windlasses
• Maxwell Windlasses
• Quick Windlasses

Windlass Accessories

• Coastline Windlass Accessories
• Lewmar Windlass Accessories
• Lofrans Windlass Accessories
• Lofrans Windlass Replacement Parts
• Maxwell Windlass Accessories
• Quick Windlass Accessories

Anchoring Information

• How To Choose A Main Anchor
• Anchoring System Assessment
• Anchor Chain and Rope Size Guide
• The Jimmy Green Guide to the Best Anchor Ropes
• What Size Anchor Do I Need?
• Anchor Size Guides
• Anchor Rope Break Load and Chain Compatibility Chart
• How to Choose Your Anchor Chain
• How to Establish the Correct Anchor Chain Calibration?
• Calibrated Anchor Chain - General Information
• Calibrated Anchor Chain Quality Control
• Calibrated Chain - Break Load and Weight Guide
• Galvanising - Managing Performance and Endurance expectation
• Can Galvanised Steel be used with Stainless Steel?
• Windlass Selection Guide
• More Articles and Guides

Stainless Steel Wire Rigging and Wire Rope

• 1x19 Wire Rigging
• 7x19 Flexible Wire Rigging
• Compacted Strand Wire Rigging
• Insulated 1x19 Wire Backstays

Wire Rigging Fittings

• Swaged Terminals
• Swageless Terminals
• Turnbuckles / Rigging screws
• Turnbuckle Components
• Backstay Insulators
• Wire Terminals

Rigging Accessories

• Babystay and Backstay Adjustment
• Backing Plates
• Backstay Blocks
• Pins, Rings and Nuts
• Rigging Chafe Protection

Fibre Rigging

• DynIce Dux Fibre Rigging
• LIROS D-Pro Static Rigging
• LIROS D-Pro-XTR Fibre Rigging
• Marlow Excel D12 MAX 78 Rigging
• Marlow M-Rig Max Rigging

Fibre Rigging Fittings

• Blue Wave Rope Terminals
• Colligo Marine Terminals

Dinghy Rigging

• Dinghy Rigging Fittings
• Fibre Dinghy Rigging
• Stainless Steel Dinghy Rigging

Wind Indicators

Guard wires, guardrails and guardrail webbing.

• Guard Rail Fittings
• Guard Rails in Fibre and Webbing
• Guard Wire Accessories
• Guard Wires

Furling Systems

• Anti-torsion Stays
• Headsail Reefing Furlers
• Straight Luff Furlers
• Top Down Furlers

Furling Accessories

• Continuous Furling Line Accessories
• Furling Line Accessories

50 / 100 metre Rates - Wire and Fibre

Standing rigging assistance.

• More Articles and Guides >
• Cruising Halyards
• Performance Halyards
• Dinghy Halyards

Rigging Shackles

• Bronze Snap Shackles
• Captive and Key Pin Shackles
• hamma™ Snap Shackles
• Selden Snap Shackles
• Soft Shackles
• Standard Snap Shackles
• Tylaska End Fittings
• Wichard Snap Shackles

Lashing, Lacing and Lanyards

• LIROS 3 Strand Lashing, Lacing and Lanyards
• LIROS Braided Lashing, Lacing and Lanyards
• Cruising Sheets
• Performance Sheets
• Dinghy Sheets
• Continuous Sheets
• Tapered Sheets

Running Rigging Accessories

• Anti-Chafe Rope Protection
• Barton Sail Handling
• Lazy Jack Sail Handling
• Rodkickers, Boomstruts
• Sail Handling Accessories
• Slab Reefing

Shock Cord and Fittings

Control lines.

• Cruising Control Lines
• Performance Control Lines
• Dinghy Control Lines
• Continuous Control Lines

Classic Ropes

• 50 / 100 metres - Classic
• Classic Control Lines
• Classic Docklines
• Classic Halyards
• Classic Sheets
• LIROS Classic 3 Strand Polyester

50 / 100 metre Rates - Running Rigging

• 50 / 100 metres - Cruising Ropes
• 50 / 100 metres - Dinghy Ropes
• 50 / 100 metres - Lashing and Lanyards
• 50 / 100 metres - Performance Ropes
• LIROS Ropes
• Marlow Ropes

Running Rigging Resources

• Running Rigging Rope Fibres and Construction Explained
• How to Select a Suitable Halyard Rope
• How to select Sheets and Guys
• Dyneema Rope - Cruising and Racing Comparison
• Dinghy Rope Selection Guide
• Rope Measurement Information
• Running Rigging - LIROS Recommended Line Diameters
• Running Rigging Break Load Comparison Chart
• Colour Coding for Running Rigging
• Selecting the right type of block, plain, roller or ball bearing
• Replacing your Furling Line
• Recycling Rope
• Running Rigging Glossary

Custom Build Instructions for Sheets, Halyards, Control Lines

Low friction rings, plain bearing blocks.

• Barton Blocks
• Harken Element Blocks
• Seasure 25mm Blocks
• Selden Yacht Blocks

Wooden Blocks

Ball bearing blocks.

• Barton Ball Bearing Blocks
• Harken Ball Bearing Blocks
• Holt Dynamic Blocks
• Selden Ball Bearing Blocks

Ratchet Blocks

• Harken Ratchet Blocks
• Selden Ratchet Blocks

Roller Bearing Blocks

• Harken Black Magic Blocks
• Selden Roller Bearing Blocks

Clutches and Organisers

• Barton Clutches and Organisers
• Lewmar Clutches
• Spinlock Clutches and Organisers

Genoa Car Systems

• Barton Genoa Sheeting
• Harken Genoa Systems
• Lewmar HTX Genoa Systems

Traveller Systems

• Barton Traveller Systems
• Harken Traveller Systems

Deck Fittings

• Bungs and Hatches
• Bushes and Fairleads
• Deck Eyes, Straps and Hooks
• Pad Eyes, U Bolts and Eye Bolts

Rudder and Transom Fittings

• Pintles and Gudgeons
• Tiller Extensions and Joints

Stanchion Blocks and Fairleads

Snatch blocks.

• Barton K Cam Cleats
• Harken Ball Bearing Cam Cleats
• Holt Cam Cleats
• Selden Cam Cleats
• Spinlock PXR Cleats

Block and Tackle Purchase Systems

• Barton Winches, Snubbers and Winchers
• Coastline Electric Winch Accessories
• Harken Winches, Handles and Accessories
• Karver Winches
• Lewmar Winches, Handles and Accessories
• Winch Servicing and Accessories

Deck Hardware Support

• Blocks and Pulleys Selection Guide
• Barton High Load Eyes
• Dyneema Low Friction Rings Comparison
• Seldén Block Selection Guide
• Barton Track Selection Guide
• Barton Traveller Systems Selection Guide
• Harken Winch Selection Guide
• Karver Winch Comparison Chart
• Lewmar Winch Selection Guide - PDF
• Winch Servicing Guide

Sailing Flags

• Courtesy Flags
• Red Ensigns
• Blue Ensigns
• Flag Accessories
• Flag Staffs and Sockets
• Flag Making and Repair
• Signal Code Flags
• Galvanised Shackles
• Stainless Steel Shackles
• Titanium Shackles
• Webbing only
• Webbing Restraint Straps
• Webbing Sail Ties
• Webbing Soft Shackles

Hatches and Portlights

Sail care and repair.

• Sail Sewing

Maintenance

• Antifouling
• Fillers, Sealants, Adhesives
• Primers and Thinners
• PROtect Tape

Fixings and Fastenings

• Monel Rivets
• Screws, Bolts, Nuts and Washers
• U Bolts, Eye Bolts and Pad Eyes

Splicing Accessories

• Fids and Tools
• Knives and Scissors

General Chandlery

• Barrier Ropes
• Canvas Bags and Accessories
• Carabiners and Hooks
• Netting and Accessories
• Rope Ladders

Seago Boats and Tenders

Chandlery information, flag articles.

• Flag Size Guide
• Bending and Hoisting Methods for Sailing Flags
• Courtesy Flags Identification, Labelling and Stowage
• Courtesy Flag Map
• Flag Etiquette and Information
• Glossary of Flag Terms and Parts of a Flag
• Making and Repairing Flags
• Signal Code Message Definitions

Other Chandlery Articles

• Anchorplait Splicing Instructions
• Antifoul Coverage Information
• Hawk Wind Indicator Selection Guide
• Petersen Stainless - Upset Forging Information
• Speedy Stitcher Sewing Instructions
• Thimble Dimensions and Compatible Shackles

Jackstays and Jacklines

• Webbing Jackstays
• Stainless Steel Wire Jackstay Lifelines
• Fibre Jackstay Lifelines
• Jackstay and Lifeline Accessories

Safety Lines

Lifejackets.

• Children's Life Jackets
• Crewsaver Lifejackets
• Seago Lifejackets
• Spinlock Lifejackets

Buoyancy Aids

Life jackets accessories.

• Lifejacket Lights
• Lifejacket Rearming Kits
• Lifejacket Spray Hoods

Overboard Recovery

• Lifebuoy Accessories
• Purchase Systems
• Slings and Throwlines

Floating Rope

• LIROS Multifilament White Polypropylene
• LIROS Yellow Floating Safety Rope
• Danbuoy Accessories
• Jimmy Green Danbuoys
• Jonbuoy Danbuoys
• Seago Danbuoys
• Liferaft Accessories
• Seago Liferafts

Safety Accessories

• Fire Safety
• Grab Bag Contents
• Grab Bags and Polybottles
• Handheld VHF Radios
• Sea Anchors and Drogues

Safety Resources

• Guard Wires - Inspection and Replacement Guidance
• Guard Wire Stud Terminal Dimensions
• Webbing Jackstays Guidance
• Webbing Jackstays - Custom Build Instructions
• Danbuoy Selection Guide
• Danbuoy Instructions - 3 piece Telescopic - Offshore
• Liferaft Selection Guide
• Liferaft Servicing
• Man Overboard Equipment - World Sailing Compliance
• Marine Safety Information Links
• Safety Marine Equipment List for UK Pleasure Vessels

Sailing Clothing

• Sailing Jackets
• Sailing Trousers
• Thermal Layers

Leisure Wear

• Accessories
• Rain Jackets
• Sweatshirts

Sailing Footwear

• Dinghy Boots and Shoes
• Sailing Wellies

Leisure Footwear

• Walking Shoes

Sailing Accessories

• Sailing Bags and Holdalls
• Sailing Gloves
• Sailing Kneepads

Clothing Clearance

Clothing guide.

• What to wear Sailing
• Helly Hansen Mens Jacket and Pant Size Guide
• Helly Hansen Womens Sailing Jacket and Pant Size Guide
• Lazy Jacks Mens and Womens Size Charts
• Musto Men's and Women's Size Charts
• Old Guys Rule Size Guide
• Sailing Gloves Size Guides
• Weird Fish Clothing Size Charts

The Jimmy Green Clothing Store

Lower Fore St, Beer, East Devon, EX12 3EG

• Adria Bandiere
• Anchor Marine
• Anchor Right
• August Race
• Barton Marine
• Blue Performance
• Brierley Lifting
• Brook International
• Brookes & Adams
• Captain Currey
• Chaineries Limousines
• Coastline Technology
• Colligo Marine
• Cyclops Marine
• Douglas Marine
• Ecoworks Marine
• Exposure OLAS
• Fire Safety Stick
• Fortress Marine Anchors
• Hawk Marine Products
• Helly Hansen
• International
• Jimmy Green Marine
• Maillon Rapide
• Mantus Marine
• Marling Leek
• Meridian Zero
• MF Catenificio
• Ocean Fenders
• Ocean Safety
• Old Guys Rule
• Petersen Stainless
• Polyform Norway
• PSP Marine Tape
• Sidermarine
• Stewart Manufacturing Inc
• Team McLube
• Technical Marine Supplies
• Titan Marine (CMP)
• Ultramarine
• Waterline Design
• William Hackett

Clearance August Race Boat Cleaning Kit £26.00

Clearance LIROS Racer Dyneema £55.08

Clearance Folding Stock Anchor £123.25

Clearance LIROS Herkules £0.00

Clearance Barton Size 0 Ball Bearing Blocks - 5mm £10.13

Clearance Marlow Blue Ocean® Doublebraid £18.48

Mooring Clearance

Anchoring clearance, standing rigging clearance, running rigging clearance, deck hardware clearance, chandlery clearance, safety clearance, standing rigging.

The Jimmy Green Rigging Team are very experienced in making up Yacht Rigging with quick turn-around times as a matter of course.

Team Jimmy Green can produce anything from a single replacement stay to a complete standing rigging re-rig and are well versed in meeting delivery deadlines in the UK, the EU and for export worldwide.

Strict Quality Control Procedures and Accountability Systems ensure that only the best quality stainless steel wire and terminals are considered. Traceability is an important feature of the Jimmy Green assurance policy: Stainless Steel Wire - Quality Control and Care

Wiretechnik Roller Swaging Technology is available from 2.5mm up to 12mm diameter (up to 10mm on-site).

Cabco Talurit soft or hard (thimble) eye wire termination from 2mm up to 8mm diameter are available on site.

Both these brands are the marine industry-leading manufacturers for wire termination machines.

Jimmy Green Marine offer the full range of Sta-Lok, Petersen and Hamma Regatta swage terminals e.g. eye, forks, tees, strap toggles plus all manner of turnbuckle and backstay insulator options.

Jimmy Green Marine also offer the full range of Sta-Lok, Petersen Hi Mod and Bluewave DIY fittings, plus Norseman replacement cones manufactured by Tylaska Marine.

All this is available to purchase online.

Standing Rigging Re-Rig Quotes

Customers frequently ask for standing rigging replacement quotes or even ballpark figures for valuation purposes citing only the yacht type/model or design. Even if your yacht is a well-known one-design production yacht e.g. Westerly, Moody, Beneteau, there is still a good chance that the specification has been altered since the original build. If the owners' manual has been preserved, it may state the standard specification, but this may have been altered/upgraded for the first owner.

The Jimmy Green Rigging Team have built up a database of information from completed re-rigs over the years, but this is by no means comprehensive. There is a certain amount of information that can be gleaned from the world wide web, but this will still not go as far as individual yacht rig specifications.

It is therefore difficult to give an accurate answer without some basic information about the rig. The diameter of the wire and therefore the associated size of the terminals is fundamental to the cost. In terms of price, the other major factor will be whether you intend to replace the rigging screws/turnbuckles. Clearly the number and configuration of the stays is important, but it is much simpler to estimate their lengths and probable terminals. More specification considerations include e.g. split, adjustable and/or insulated backstays, forestay foibles caused by headsail furler fitting, linked rigging.

Jimmy Green Marine have made it possible to get an instant standing rigging re-rig quote online.

You need to know or give us the following information:

• The type of wire: KOS 1 x 19, Petersen Compact Strand or KOS flexible 7 x 19
• The diameter of the wire
• The approximate length for each stay
• The terminal at the top
• The bottom terminal (with or without rigging screw)

These  CUSTOM BUILD INSTRUCTIONS  will help you through the process.

For a rough guide, approximate lengths and an educated guess for the terminals will suffice. The decision on whether to replace the turnbuckles makes a big difference to the price.

The Jimmy Green Rigging Team are always on hand to help you through this process, by email or on the telephone.

If the measuring seems a daunting responsibility, send us the old rigging as a pattern. We will measure, ask any pertinent questions about the new rig and quote you before starting any work.

Standing Rigging Complete Replacement

A complete Re-Rig i.e. replacement of all your standing rigging may seem like too big a job to tackle yourself but it needn't be too difficult with help from the Jimmy Green Rigging Team.

A common-sense approach combined with careful notetaking (photos) at each stage will be enough to ensure success.

Team Jimmy Green have written a step by step guide:  STANDING RIGGING - GUIDE TO TACKLING A COMPLETE RE-RIG

Stay Diameter

• 2.5mm (15) 2mm (10) 3mm (12) 4mm (13) 6mm (12) 7mm (9) 8mm (12) 9mm (1) 10mm (12) 14mm (8) 16mm (2)

Rope Diameter *

• 2.5mm (2) 3mm (5) 4 - 5 mm (1) 5 - 6 mm (1) 4mm (4) 5mm (4) 5-9mm (1) 6mm (4) 8mm (5) 9-11mm (1) 10mm (4) 11-13mm (1) 12mm (4)

Wire Fitting Size

• 2.5mm - 1/4 (1) 3mm (17) 3mm - 1/4 (20) 3mm - M6 (2) 4mm (32) 4mm - 1/4 (16) 4mm - 3/8 (3) 4mm - 5/16 (25) 4mm - M6 (2) 4mm - M8 (2) 4mm - Z (1) 5mm (32) 5mm - 090 (1) 5mm - 5/16 (22) 5mm - 110 (1) 5mm - 3/8 (22) 5mm - 7/16 (3) 5mm - M8 (2) 5mm - M10 (2) 5mm - Z (3) 6mm (37) 6mm - 3/8 (21) 6mm - 1/2 (9) 6mm - 7/16 (20) 6mm - M10 (2) 6mm - M12 (1) 6mm Dyform (1) 6mm - S (1) 7mm (36) 7mm - 7/16 (12) 7mm - 1/2 (22) 7mm - 110 (1) 7mm - 140 (1) 7mm Dyform (1) 7mm - M12 (1) 7mm - Z (3) 8mm (30) 8mm - 1/2 (29) 8mm - 5/8 (28) 8mm DS (2) 8mm - M12 (1) 8mm - M16 (1) 10mm (37) 10mm - 3/4 (9) 10mm - 5/8 (23) 10mm - M16 (1) 12mm (35) 12mm - 3/4 (21) 12mm - 7/8 (6) 12mm - E (1) 12mm - M20 (1) 14mm (24) 14mm - 7/8 (11) 14mm - M22 (1) 16mm (11) 16mm - 1 (6) 19mm (6) 19mm - 1 1/8 (3) 19mm - 1 1/4 (1) 22mm (4) 22mm - 1 1/4 (2) 26mm (3) 26mm - 1 3/8 (2) 1/4" (1) 5/16" (2) 3/8" (2) 7/16" (2) 1/2" (2) 5/8" (2) 3/4" (2) 7/8" (2) 1" (2) 12mm Dyform (1)
• APL (1) BSI (6) Barton Marine (3) Blue Wave (27) Colligo Marine (8) Crewsaver (1) Cyclops Marine (2) Felco (1) Grunt (1) Hamma (17) Hampidjan (12) Harken (8) Hawk Marine Products (5) Holt (10) Jimmy Green Marine (3) KOS (27) Karver (3) LIROS Ropes (23) Loctite (1) Loos (1) Marlow Ropes (12) Mast (1) Meridian Zero (1) Ocean Fenders (1) PSP Marine Tape (2) Petersen Stainless (44) Plastimo (20) Proboat (2) Profurl (15) Rutgerson (1) STA-LOK (69) Schaefer (2) Seasure (3) Seldén (27) Spinlock (2) Team McLube (1) Technical Marine Supplies (2) Tylaska (1) Wichard (7)

Purchase Type

• 50 metre Coil (5) 50 metre cut length (2) 100 metre Reel (12) Clearance (11) Custom Build (61) Set Lengths (3) Spliced Set Length (1)

4mm 1x19 Stainless Steel Wire Standing Rigging

3mm 1x7 compact strand stainless steel wire rigging, 6mm 1x19 stainless steel wire standing rigging, 6mm flexible 7x19 stainless steel wire rope, liros 6mm d-pro-xtr, liros 8mm d-pro-xtr, marlow 8mm excel d12 max 78, 12mm dynice dux, sta-lok stud, sta-lok open turnbuckle - toggle and blank, sta-lok open turnbuckle - toggle and sta-lok, sta-lok st turnbuckle - welded fork & fork.

Yachting World

• Digital Edition

Pip Hare explains when to check and replace your standing rigging

• October 1, 2020

To prepare my IMOCA 60 Medallia for the Vendée Globe race, I have completed a full change of all the standing rigging

If the mast is stepped, the only way to thoroughly inspect rig fittings at the masthead is to go up there... Photo: James Mitchell

This was a ‘no brainer’ decision as my rigging has been around the world once already and I would never take it into the Southern Ocean for a second time.

In some ways it is easier to estimate the life of synthetic rigging, as it comes with a recommended mileage or stated lifespan if it can be UV damaged. For those with stainless steel rigging the decision on when to replace can be a harder one.

The main difficulties boat owners face when assessing the condition of the rig is the inability to see the first signs of wear, partly due to the majority of our rigging being out of sight in the sky, and partly due to the nature of metal fatigue itself.

Professional rig checks often lead to last-minute repairs for transatlantic ARC sailors. Photo: James Mitchell

The fact is that metal fatigue is inevitable and cannot be avoided. The only thing that will vary is the time a component takes to fail. So how can we make a good assessment of when rigging should be replaced?

There are a number of factors that will affect the lifespan of your standing rigging, most notably the initial quality of the rigging used and the type and frequency of sailing that you do.

Rigging quality

The quality of both wire and rod rigging is important because in both the crack initiation and growth phases of the fatigue process can be accelerated by metal impurities or unseen manufacturing defects in the component itself. Using high quality wire rigging from a well known supplier is a bigger initial outlay but the grade of metal used and manufacturing process should prolong the life of your rigging.

Article continues below…

How to prepare your yacht for anything: Preempting chafe, rig and crew problems

This is Part 2 of Vicky Ellis’ guide to preparing your yacht for any eventuality. You can read Part 1…

Ocean damage – tales of chafe, jury rigs and a shark on the rudder in the ARC

Crossing the Atlantic is hard on your gear, as the reports of ocean damage during the annual Atlantic Rally for…

When buying a secondhand boat, find out when the rigging was last replaced and try to get a copy of the invoice detailing who the supplier was – if you’re not sure, ask a rigger to take a look at it.

How you sail

In crude terms, every time your boat is used it is advancing the process of metal fatigue through the application of cyclical loads, so a boat that is raced regularly and hard will be approaching the point at which rigging failure could occur faster than a boat which is cruised intermittently.

This doesn’t mean that lightly used boats will never have to consider changing their rigging; even a dormant boat will be experiencing load cycles in some form when the mast is up. Just the action of the wind on a mast is enough to load up the rigging and any stays left loose will move with wind and wave action.

It’s not unusual for rigging wires to fracture around the swage collar

To minimise the stress caused by these load cycles while sailing it’s important to tune your rig regularly so the rigging is always at optimum tension. This will help ensure that changes in load are less extreme.

If you are not confident to set up your own rig tensions then ask your rigger to help, and later be sure to check your rig throughout the season.

Regular rigging checks

There are a couple of ways to test for early signs of fatigue not picked up by the naked eye; they include dye and NDT (non-destructive testing).

Water can enter swage terminals leading to crevis corrosion. Photo: Rupert Holmes

Both these surveys need to be carried out with the rig down and it may be worth balancing the overall cost of carrying out the test against the additional cost of re-rigging the boat, especially bearing in mind that if any faults or impurities are discovered your insurance may then require you to change the rigging anyway.

Regular visual checks should pick up the first signs of crack growth. Look for rust on T-terminals and at swage ends, check for powdery corrosion where T-terminals insert into the mast and any signs of cracking in the same area.

Run your fingers up and down the last metre of wire above or below the swage, feeling for deformities; if the wire is not uniform the chances are that one of the individual wires has broken, even if you can’t see it, and the stay and its partner should be replaced immediately.

Visual checks for rust and powdery corrosion are your first line of defence. Photo: Rupert Holmes

Checking the head of T-terminals is a harder job as they are inside the mast itself. This will need to be done with the mast removed so a full ‘mast down’ survey carried out by a professional rigger should be scheduled at least every three years.

Picking up early signs of corrosion or replacing select components after a thorough inspection is a worthwhile exercise because it may extend the lifespan of your standing rigging.

Inevitably your insurance policy will play a big part in your decision making about whether to replace your rigging. There has been a general assumption within the sailing community that insurance companies require rigging to be replaced after ten years, but I’ve found this is not actually the case; it’s far less prescriptive than that.

A small crack has developed in this stemhead fitting just above the forestay clevis pin

The IPID (Insurance Product Information Document) with your policy should give you a clear indication of what is covered in the event of a dismasting and may also provide some food for thought on when you should replace.

Insurance companies do not stipulate a timeframe at which your standing rigging should be replaced, but they do stipulate that all parts of the boat should be regularly and appropriately checked and maintained.

In the event of a dismasting claim, the insurance company would expect to see evidence of rigging maintenance and checks carried out at appropriate intervals by a qualified person; DIY inspections will not be accepted.

It is also worth taking note that in most insurance policies a depreciation element will be applied. This normally constitutes a deduction of one third of the new value of a rig and would start to come into play when a rig approaches 10-12 years old.

Emotional cost

There’s a consequential impact of a dismasting which cannot be covered by an insurance claim, and that is the human and emotional cost. In my own sailing career I’ve had two failures of standing rigging components which I spotted while sailing and was able to jury rig for a safe return to port. I’ve also experienced a dismasting, and I can vouch that it’s not a pleasant experience.

As a regular racer I take the health of my rig very seriously, perform checks before every major race and take my rig down annually for a thorough inspection. But this is the schedule that is right for me and the miles I sail, and would be considered overkill for the average sailor. Only you can give a proper evaluation of how often and how hard your boat is used, but that makes you ultimately responsible for setting the maintenance and replacement schedule.

Metal fatigue

Wires can break, unseen, within swaged terminals

Crack initiation starts when the metal first gets put to work and is caused by the cyclical loading of metal components. In the case of standing rigging on a sailing boat, this is the loading and unloading of shrouds and stays. Think about the windward shrouds loading up, while the leeward side relaxes: this cyclical loading causes cell structures to develop within the metal, these cells gradually harden and then develop microscopic cracks.

The crack growth stage follows next and these microscopic cracks will develop into larger ones, which may eventually be visible to the naked eye on the surface of the metal component. The speed of the crack growth phase will alter depending on how often and how hard your rigging is put under load.

Ultimate failure is caused when a crack exceeds a size that results in the component no longer supporting load. Failure will be sudden.

First published in the September 2020 issue of Yachting World.

Replacing Your Standing Rigging

Published by rigworks on november 27, 2018.

Question – When should I replace my standing rigging?

From the Rigger – According to industry standards, the anticipated lifespan for stainless steel rigging is 10-12 years for wire and 15-20 years for rod. Of course, a number of factors affect a rig’s lifespan including load, sailing conditions, mileage sailed, age, fatigue from cyclic loading, environmental influences such as salinity and contamination, and frequency of care and maintenance. Many people believe that only heavily used rigging needs to be replaced, but the continuous flexing of loose wire that is not under load can take a serious toll as well. The flogging of a loose shroud can actually be harder on wire than steady pressure.

Unfortunately, there are not always visual clues that your rigging has passed its life expectancy. Things to look for include corrosion, pitting, cracks, and broken strands or “meat hooks” on the wire. Rust and discoloration can indicate the location of a crack or crystallization of the metal. Check your spreaders, chainplates and turnbuckles for cracking, fatigue, missing cotter pins/rings, etc. Check the deck around the chainplates and mast for cracking and delamination. If in doubt, get a professional opinion.

The cost to replace standing rigging obviously varies from boat to boat. Give us a call, and we can give you a rough quote. With proper measurements (wire diameter, pin sizes, wire lengths), we can give you a very accurate price for the standing rigging itself, but there are often unforeseen complications during the job (bad spreaders, corroded mast bases, hardware that is stripped on the mast, frozen pins, chainplates that are failing, etc.). A rig inspection beforehand can minimize surprises.  And word of warning… jobs often get expensive because the customer decides, once the mast is down, to add furlers, masthead units, new sheets and halyards, etc. These additions add up quickly and affect the cost of parts, labor, special order shipping, taxes, etc. We are happy to accommodate your requests, but the cost of your job will escalate quickly.

Although we work closely with the boatyard during the job, you will need to negotiate yard fees (crane, mast lay days, etc.) directly with the yard of your choice. They are not included in our estimate. Driscoll Boat Works and Shelter Island Boat Yard are both within walking distance of Rigworks. Assuming it fits in our racks and we have room, we may be able to avoid mast lay day charges by storing your mast here at Rigworks.

As a quick side note… people often ask if they should switch from rod to wire rigging or vice versa during the re-rig (usually from rod to wire as rod is much more expensive per foot). Be aware that this is not a simple conversion and can be quite expensive. The terminations for wire vs. rod can be quite different and require a lot of customization.

Want to prolong the lifespan of your rigging? Here are a few suggestions…

Maintain your standing rigging! Like your car, your sailboat needs TLC. Perform routine cleaning/polishing to remove corrosives, identify chafe points and other damage, and properly tune your standing rigging (shrouds, forestay, backstay). Stainless does not like to be deprived of oxygen, so keep tape off your rigging to avoid anaerobic corrosion. For more information on rig maintenance, visit our prior ‘Ask the Rigger’ article at https://rigworks.com/maintaining-your-standing-rigging/ and download our rig-care pamphlet at https://rigworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Standing-Rigging-Care.pdf .

Get regular rig inspections! This is a very inexpensive investment (by yachting standards ) to ensure that your rig is in sound condition. Why not schedule annual service as you would with a car? Let us go over your rig from top to bottom and end to end to identify trouble before it gets worse. For more information on rig inspections, visit our prior ‘Ask the Rigger’ article at https://rigworks.com/the-scoop-on-rig-inspections/ . Our riggers can also tune your rig, either at the dock or under sail. Not only will your rig last longer when properly tuned, your boat will sail better, and who doesn’t love that!

Consider pulling your rig every 5-6 years to inspect the mast base, chainplates, turnbuckles, wire, etc. This is considerably less expensive than a full re-rig and, again, may identify issues before they become catastrophic.

And PLEASE do not buy a used boat without a professional rig inspection! We have had many customers who have found a ‘great deal’ on a used boat only to discover that they need to spend a small fortune on new rigging. A boat with bad rigging is at best a pain in the #@$ and at worst a lethal weapon. There is nothing more expensive than a “cheap” boat!

A customer came into our shop the other day to discuss his 33-year old rigging. He said it looked fine. He asked “Isn’t the industry standard just a ploy by manufacturers to sell more wire”. Since we also stand to gain when you replace your rigging, let us say that many insurance companies will not insure sailboats with aged rigging. This should be a warning. If they are not willing to take the financial risk, are you willing to risk yourself and your crew?

Finally, should you decide to sail with that old rigging, consider checking out the ‘Ask the Rigger’ article titled “Rigs Fail… Are You Ready?” at https://rigworks.com/rigs-fail-ready/ .

Safe Sailing!

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• Boat Rigging: Setting Sail for Success

In the world of sailing, boat rigging plays a crucial role in ensuring the safety, efficiency, and performance of your vessel. From standing rigging to sail rigging types, it's essential to understand the intricacies of rigging a yacht to embark on smooth sailing adventures. In this comprehensive guide, we'll dive into the nuances of boat rigging, helping you navigate the open waters with confidence.

Boat Rigging Basics

Before we delve into the details, let's start with the fundamentals of boat rigging. Understanding the key components and their functions is essential for any sailor, whether you're a novice or a seasoned pro.

Standing Rigging

Standing rigging refers to the fixed support structure of a boat's mast, including wires, cables, and rods. It plays a critical role in maintaining the mast's vertical position and overall stability.

Sail Rigging Types

Sail rigging is not a one-size-fits-all concept, but rather a diverse world with various types and configurations to suit different sailing needs. Understanding these rigging types is essential for any sailor looking to optimize their boat's performance and safety. 

Ship Riggings

Ship riggings have played a pivotal role in shaping the history of seafaring and maritime exploration. These complex systems of ropes, wires, and sails have been integral to the functionality and success of various vessels throughout the ages.Explore the significance of ship riggings, their evolution, and their influence on modern-day boat rigging.

Materials Matter

The choice of materials for your boat rigging is a decision that can't be taken lightly. Two popular options, Dyneema and Kevlar, offer distinct advantages.

Dyneema Rigging

Dyneema rigging represents a breakthrough in the world of sailboat rigging. This cutting-edge material, known for its remarkable strength and low stretch properties, has revolutionized the way sailors experience the open water. Often referred to as the ultimate innovation in the world of sailing, Dyneema rigging offers a myriad of advantages: 

• Exceptional Strength: Dyneema rigging boasts remarkable strength-to-weight ratio, making it incredibly robust and reliable even in demanding conditions. 
• Low Stretch: Dyneema has minimal stretch, which translates to improved sail control and responsiveness, ensuring better performance.
• Lightweight: It's significantly lighter than traditional rigging materials like steel, reducing the overall weight of your vessel and enhancing speed and maneuverability.
• Low Maintenance: Dyneema rigging requires minimal maintenance, offering sailors peace of mind and more time on the water.
• Resistance to Corrosion: Unlike metal rigging, Dyneema is not susceptible to corrosion, ensuring a longer lifespan and durability.
• UV Resistance: Dyneema is highly resistant to UV rays, making it ideal for prolonged exposure to sunlight.
• Easy Handling: Its flexibility and ease of handling simplify rigging installation and adjustments.
• Enhanced Safety: Dyneema's strength and reliability contribute to safer sailing experiences, reducing the risk of rigging failure.
• Versatility: It's suitable for a wide range of applications, from standing rigging to halyards, making it a versatile choice for sailors.
• Eco-Friendly: Dyneema is an environmentally friendly option as it doesn't release harmful substances into the water, contributing to a cleaner marine ecosystem.

Dyneema vs. Kevlar

Weigh the pros and cons of Dyneema and Kevlar to determine which suits your sailing needs best:

Dyneema Rigging:

• Exceptional Strength: Dyneema boasts impressive strength, making it highly reliable for rigging purposes.
• Low Stretch: It has minimal stretch, enhancing sail control and overall performance.
• Lightweight: Dyneema is significantly lighter than traditional materials, reducing the vessel's weight.
• Low Maintenance: Requires minimal upkeep, saving time and effort.
• Corrosion Resistance: Dyneema is not susceptible to corrosion, ensuring durability.
• UV Resistance: It's highly resistant to UV rays, making it suitable for extended exposure to sunlight.
• Safety: Dyneema's strength and reliability contribute to safer sailing experiences.
• Versatility: Suitable for various rigging applications, from standing rigging to halyards.
• Cost: Dyneema can be more expensive than some traditional materials, initially.
• Abrasion Resistance: It may be less resistant to abrasion compared to Kevlar.

Kevlar Rigging:

• Excellent Abrasion Resistance: Kevlar is highly resistant to wear and tear, ensuring longevity.
• High Tensile Strength: It offers impressive tensile strength, making it suitable for demanding applications.
• Stiffness: Kevlar is stiffer than Dyneema, which can be advantageous for some rigging configurations.
• Heavy: Kevlar is heavier than Dyneema, potentially impacting vessel performance.
• Low UV Resistance: It is less resistant to UV radiation, which can affect its durability over time.
• Higher Stretch: Kevlar tends to stretch more than Dyneema, which can impact sail control.
• Prone to Corrosion: Unlike Dyneema, Kevlar can be susceptible to corrosion.
• Cost: It can be expensive, and the initial investment may be higher than other materials.

Choosing between Dyneema and Kevlar depends on your specific sailing needs and priorities. Dyneema is favored for its strength, low stretch, and light weight, while Kevlar excels in abrasion resistance and tensile strength. Consider these factors when making your rigging material selection.

Stainless Steel Yacht Rigging

When it comes to yacht rigging, durability is paramount, and stainless steel rigging wires stand out as a top choice. Their robust nature, coupled with an unmistakable touch of elegance, makes them an ideal option for discerning sailors. Stainless steel yacht rigging is highly resistant to corrosion, even in the harsh marine environment. This resistance not only ensures a longer lifespan but also reduces maintenance efforts, allowing you to spend more time on the water. Additionally, the sleek appearance of stainless steel adds a touch of sophistication to your vessel. Whether you're cruising the open seas or participating in regattas, stainless steel yacht rigging combines style and substance to offer a premium sailing experience.

Spectra Standing Rigging

Spectra standing rigging is a game-changer for sailors seeking top-tier performance and durability. This advanced material, known for its incredible strength and low stretch properties, has revolutionized the way we approach standing rigging. Spectra rigging offers advantages that are hard to beat – it enhances the stability and safety of your vessel while providing exceptional responsiveness. The minimal stretch ensures precise sail control, making it the go-to choice for those who demand the utmost from their rigging. If you're looking to take your sailing experience to the next level, Spectra standing rigging is a choice that can't be ignored.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our  Magazine.

Rigging a Yacht: A Step-By-Step Guide

Now that you've grasped the basics and material options, let's dive into the practical aspect of rigging a yacht. Follow these steps to ensure a smooth and safe sailing experience.

Planning and Preparation

Rigging a yacht is a meticulous process that requires careful planning and thorough preparation. Before embarking on your sailing adventure, it's crucial to ensure that every aspect of your yacht's rigging is in top-notch condition. The advantages of this step-by-step guide are manifold. It guarantees the safety of both the vessel and its passengers, reduces the risk of mid-sail complications, and ultimately enhances your overall sailing experience. By meticulously inspecting your rigging and addressing any issues during the planning and preparation phase, you can set sail with confidence, knowing that your yacht is ready to navigate the open waters seamlessly.

Inspecting Your Rigging

Rigging a yacht is a meticulous process that demands careful attention to detail. One crucial aspect is inspecting your rigging. This step ensures the safety and efficiency of your sailing adventure. Regular inspections , even before you set sail, can identify potential issues and help prevent mishaps on the water . Inspecting your rigging is not only a safety measure but also a way to guarantee that your yacht performs at its best, allowing you to enjoy smooth and stress-free sailing experiences.

Rigging Replacement

When it comes to maintaining your yacht's rigging, the necessity of rigging replacement cannot be overstated. Whether due to wear and tear or a desire to upgrade to modern materials, knowing when and how to replace your rigging is crucial.

Specialized Rigs for Small Sailboats

For small sailboat enthusiasts , specialized rigs can enhance your sailing experience. Explore the options available for these nimble vessels.

Ship Rigging Terms

Sailboat rigging comes with its unique terminology. Get acquainted with the essential terms: 

• Mast: The vertical spar or structure that supports sails and rigging.
• Boom: A horizontal spar that extends from the mast to support the bottom of a sail.
• Shroud: Rigging wires that support the mast from the sides.
• Stay: Rigging wires that support the mast from the front or back.
• Halyard: Lines used to raise and lower sails.
• Sheet: Lines used to control the angle of the sails with respect to the wind.
• Jib: A triangular foresail set in front of the mast.
• Tack: The lower forward corner of a sail.
• Clew: The lower after corner of a sail.
• Topping Lift: A line that supports the boom when the sail is not in use.

Understanding these ship rigging terms is essential for efficient and safe sailing, allowing you to communicate effectively with your crew and navigate the open waters with confidence.

Sailboat Stays and Shrouds

Sailboat rigging comprises various components, and among the most critical are sailboat stays and shrouds. Stays are the fixed support cables or wires that keep the mast upright, while shrouds add lateral support, preventing the mast from swaying. These components work together to maintain the mast's stability and ensure safe and efficient sailing. The proper tension and alignment of stays and shrouds are crucial for the overall performance and safety of a sailboat. Regular inspections and maintenance of these rigging elements are essential to prevent wear and tear, making sure they remain reliable on your sailing adventures. Understanding the role of sailboat stays and shrouds is fundamental for any sailor, whether you're navigating coastal waters or crossing the open sea.

In conclusion, boat rigging is a multifaceted subject that greatly influences your sailing experience. Understanding the fundamentals, material choices, and the process of rigging a yacht is essential for a successful voyage.

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Average Cost to Replace Running Rigging (with Examples)

Replacing the running rigging is a crucial part of the upkeep of your sailboat. Its cost can vary, mainly depending on the size of your boat, the type of lines used, and whether you opt for professional installation or take on the project yourself. In this article, we will discuss some examples to give you a better understanding of what you may be looking to spend on running rigging replacement.

For a 30-foot sailboat, the cost to replace a main halyard can be around $500. The estimated cost of replacing your boat's running rigging with sheets is around $1,700–$2,000+. For an average 40-foot boat, you can expect to pay around $4,000 for wire rigging replacement, which may include control lines.

The average maintenance cost for boats under 30 feet is around $255 per month, or just under $3,000 per year, so you may want to plan for periodic rigging replacement. This way, you can avoid unexpected expenses and maintain your sailboat's performance and safety.

• Replacing the running rigging on your sailboat can be a necessary expense, but also an investment in safety and performance.
• Timely replacement of your sailboat's running rigging not only ensures a smooth sailing experience but also prevents costly scenarios such as having to hire a rigger to go up your mast to replace a broken halyard.
• Sta-set-x might be a suitable option for halyards as it has less stretch compared to other materials and only costs a few pennies more than regular sta-set.
• Make sure to include other additional expenses (like shiv replacement) if needed when estimating the cost.

On this page:

Average cost to replace running rigging, cost breakdown by rigging type, factors affecting replacement cost, ways to save on replacement costs, understanding running rigging replacement, when to replace running rigging.

In this section, we'll cover the average costs associated with replacing running rigging, focusing on different materials and professional services.

Dyneema lines offer a long-lasting solution

Dyneema lines are known for their strength, durability, and lightweight nature. They can be more expensive than other options, but they offer a long-lasting solution. The cost of replacing running rigging with Dyneema lines can be:

Keep in mind that pricing can vary based on the quality and brand of the lines.

Polyester lines offer a good balance between strength and handling

If you're looking for a more budget-friendly option, consider using double braid polyester lines. They are more affordable than Dyneema but still offer a good balance between strength and handling. The cost of polyester lines can be:

Wire rope for replacing running rigging

For specific applications like certain types of forestay and backstay, you might require wire rope. The cost of stainless steel wire rope varies depending on the diameter and type.

Basic materials cost for your running rigging

As an example, let's assume you're replacing all the running rigging for a 30-foot sailboat with polyester lines. Your total basic material cost could be around $180–300 with approximately 200 feet of line (main halyard, jib halyard , sheets, etc.).

Professional services cost to replace your running rigging

If you decide to hire a professional rigger, the service fees might increase the overall cost. For example, to replace the main halyard on a 30-foot sloop, a professional rigger may charge close to $500. Labor rates can vary, so it's recommended to get quotes from multiple riggers in your area to find the best deal.

Here's an overview table with the cost to replace rigging for different boat and rig types.

Below, we will break down the average cost of replacing running rigging for your sailboat, with examples for each type of rigging: Halyards, Sheets, and Control Lines.

Halyard replacement costs vary depending on the length, material, and quality of the line you choose

Replacing halyards can vary in cost depending on the length and material. For instance, a basic double braid polyester halyard for a 30-foot sailboat may cost around $500.

For a standard 30-foot sailboat, you can expect the cost to be around $500 for the main halyard. Keep in mind, this estimate includes installation by a professional rigger. If you opt to replace it yourself, the price might be lower. It is essential to research the specific halyards your boat requires and compare prices from different retailers to find the best deal.

Sheet replacement costs will depend on the size, material, and quality of the line

Sheets are essential for controlling sails, and their replacement cost also depends on length, material, and whether you're doing the work yourself or hiring a professional. Here are some average costs for different types of sheets:

A common material for sheets on smaller sailboats is a double braid polyester line. The estimated cost of replacing your boat's running rigging with this material is around $1,700–$2,000+ for a 30-foot sailboat. This cost includes hiring a professional to complete the task. Keep in mind that if you are comfortable replacing the sheets yourself, the overall cost might be lower. As with halyards, research your specific needs and compare prices from different retailers.

Control line replacement costs will vary depending on your sailboat's configuration

Control lines cover a wide range of rigging elements, each with different cost considerations. Some common control lines and their respective average costs include:

Control lines are often replaced with materials similar to those used for sheets, like double braid polyester. Unlike halyards and sheets, control lines are specific to the control systems used on your boat, such as traveler, vang, or furling systems, so the costs will vary depending on your sailboat's configuration. For an average 40-foot boat, you can expect to pay around $4,000 for wire rigging replacement, which may include control lines. It's crucial to understand the control lines you need to replace and their specifications before sourcing the best prices and materials for the job.

Material and quality of the rigging components

Higher-quality materials, such as Sta-Set-X , are more durable and offer less stretch, which translates to a slightly higher price. On the other hand, more affordable materials might not provide the same level of performance or longevity, requiring more frequent replacements.

Boat size impacts the amount of running rigging you'll need

A larger vessel requires more line, sheet, and other components, increasing the overall cost of replacement. For example, replacing the standing rigging on a sailboat can cost around $4,000 every ten years .

Labor charges when replacing running rigging

If you choose to hire professional help to undertake the project, you can expect to pay for their time and expertise. Labor costs vary by region and can also depend on the complexity of your boat's rigging system.

When it comes to replacing your sailboat's running rigging , there are a few ways to save money without sacrificing quality. By following these tips, you can ensure that you get the best value for your investment.

DIY approach on running rigging replacement

Although it might take some time and effort, learning how to replace your own running rigging will save you labor costs. Many sailors find this process rewarding and educational. Familiarize yourself with the different components and materials used in your sailboat's running rigging system, then research how to install and maintain them. There are numerous online tutorials and guides available to help you along the way.

Purchasing rigging materials in bulk

Instead of buying only the specific amount that you need for your boat, consider buying larger quantities at lower prices per foot. For example, Sampson Ropes and other manufacturers offer double braid Dacron rope products at prices ranging from $1.00 to $2.50 per foot. By purchasing larger quantities, you may be able to secure a more favorable price per foot, which will ultimately lower your overall replacement cost.

Take advantage of shopping deals and discounts

Keep your eyes open for sales and promotions at your local chandleries or online retailers. Signing up for newsletters from sailing or marine supply stores can provide you with access to exclusive discounts and information about upcoming sales. Additionally, consider purchasing gently used or clearance items, which can offer significant savings without sacrificing quality.

Running rigging consists of all the lines, sheets, and halyards used to haul and operate the sails. As a boat owner, you should be aware of the signs that your running rigging needs replacement and the average costs associated with it.

First, let's look at the reasons for replacing your running rigging. The primary reason is wear and tear caused by continuous use, exposure to the sun, saltwater, and friction . Over time, these factors can weaken your lines, making them prone to breaking or developing other issues that can impact your boat's functionality and safety. It's important to inspect your running rigging regularly and spot any signs of wear like fraying, chafing, or discolored fibers . These indicate a need for replacement before any accidents happen.

Now, let's discuss the average cost of replacing your running rigging. The overall cost varies depending on factors such as your boat's size, the quality of materials used, and labor expenses. For a 30-foot sailboat, the cost to replace a main halyard without going aloft can be around $500, including labor and materials. However, this is just an example, and costs may differ based on your specific boat and your location.

When planning to replace your running rigging, you can opt for various material options, each with its own price range and characteristics. Materials like polyester, Dyneema, and Vectran can offer different benefits, such as increased strength, reduced stretch, and improved durability. It's important to research and choose the right material for your sailboat based on your needs and budget.

Another aspect of expenses to consider is the labor cost , which depends on the rigging service you hire and the complexity of the replacement job. For instance, some tasks may require a rigger to climb the mast , adding to labor hours and overall costs. To save money, you can learn to do some running rigging replacements yourself; however, make sure you know your limits and call a professional for complex tasks.

Signs of wear and fraying on your running rigging

Regularly inspect key areas such as halyards, sheets, and control lines . If you notice any frayed or chafed sections, consider replacing the affected line immediately. A broken halyard can lead to expensive repairs and even pose safety risks for you and your crew while sailing. Keeping these components in good condition is crucial for smooth sailing and the optimal performance of your boat.

Maintenance schedule that includes regular inspection and cleaning of your lines

A proactive approach to maintaining your running rigging will prolong its life and ensure the safety of your vessel. It's a good idea to establish a maintenance schedule that includes regular inspection and cleaning of your lines. While it may be tempting to wait until a problem arises, preventative upkeep can help you avoid costly repairs or emergency situations in the long run . Check your rigging for signs of wear and replace parts when necessary to maintain optimal sailing conditions.

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The Standing Rigging On A Sailboat Explained

The standing rigging on a sailboat is a system of stainless steel wires that holds the mast upright and supports the spars.

In this guide, I’ll explain the basics of a sailboat’s hardware and rigging, how it works, and why it is a fundamental and vital part of the vessel. We’ll look at the different parts of the rig, where they are located, and their function.

We will also peek at a couple of different types of rigs and their variations to determine their differences. In the end, I will explain some additional terms and answer some practical questions I often get asked.

But first off, it is essential to understand what standing rigging is and its purpose on a sailboat.

The purpose of the standing rigging

Like I said in the beginning, the standing rigging on a sailboat is a system of stainless steel wires that holds the mast upright and supports the spars. When sailing, the rig helps transfer wind forces from the sails to the boat’s structure. This is critical for maintaining the stability and performance of the vessel.

The rig can also consist of other materials, such as synthetic lines or steel rods, yet its purpose is the same. But more on that later.

Since the rig supports the mast, you’ll need to ensure that it is always in appropriate condition before taking your boat out to sea. Let me give you an example from a recent experience.

Dismasting horrors

I had a company inspect the entire rig on my sailboat while preparing for an Atlantic crossing. The rigger didn’t find any issues, but I decided to replace the rig anyway because of its unknown age. I wanted to do the job myself so I could learn how it is done correctly.

Not long after, we left Gibraltar and sailed through rough weather for eight days before arriving in Las Palmas. We were safe and sound and didn’t experience any issues. Unfortunately, several other boats arriving before us had suffered rig failures. They lost their masts and sails—a sorrowful sight but also a reminder of how vital the rigging is on a sailboat.

The most common types of rigging on a sailboat

The most commonly used rig type on modern sailing boats is the fore-and-aft Bermuda Sloop rig with one mast and just one headsail. Closely follows the Cutter rig and the Ketch rig. They all have a relatively simple rigging layout. Still, there are several variations and differences in how they are set up.

A sloop has a single mast, and the Ketch has one main mast and an additional shorter mizzen mast further aft. A Cutter rig is similar to the Bermuda Sloop with an additional cutter forestay, allowing it to fly two overlapping headsails.

You can learn more about the differences and the different types of sails they use in this guide. For now, we’ll focus on the Bermuda rig.

The difference between standing rigging and running rigging

Sometimes things can get confusing as some of our nautical terms are used for multiple items depending on the context. Let me clarify just briefly:

The  rig  or  rigging  on a sailboat is a common term for two parts:

• The  standing rigging  consists of wires supporting the mast on a sailboat and reinforcing the spars from the force of the sails when sailing.
• The  running rigging  consists of the halyards, sheets, and lines we use to hoist, lower, operate, and control the sails on a sailboat.

Check out my guide on running rigging here !

The difference between a fractional and a masthead rig

A Bermuda rig is split into two groups. The  Masthead  rig and the  Fractional  rig.

The  Masthead  rig has a forestay running from the bow to the top of the mast, and the spreaders point 90 degrees to the sides. A boat with a masthead rig typically carries a bigger overlapping headsail ( Genoa)  and a smaller mainsail. Very typical on the Sloop, Ketch, and Cutter rigs.

A  Fractional  rig has forestays running from the bow to 1/4 – 1/8 from the top of the mast, and the spreaders are swept backward. A boat with a fractional rig also has the mast farther forward than a masthead rig, a bigger mainsail, and a smaller headsail, usually a Jib. Very typical on more performance-oriented sailboats.

There are exceptions in regards to the type of headsail, though. Many performance cruisers use a Genoa instead of a Jib , making the difference smaller.

Some people also fit an inner forestay, or a babystay, to allow flying a smaller staysail.

Explaining the parts and hardware of the standing rigging

The rigging on a sailing vessel relies on stays and shrouds in addition to many hardware parts to secure the mast properly. And we also have nautical terms for each of them. Since a system relies on every aspect of it to be in equally good condition, we want to familiarize ourselves with each part and understand its function.

Forestay and Backstay

The  forestay  is a wire that runs from the bow to the top of the mast. Some boats, like the Cutter rig, can have several additional inner forestays in different configurations.

The  backstay  is the wire that runs from the back of the boat to the top of the mast. Backstays have a tensioner, often hydraulic, to increase the tension when sailing upwind. Some rigs, like the Cutter, have running backstays and sometimes checkstays or runners, to support the rig.

The primary purpose of the forestay and backstay is to prevent the mast from moving fore and aft. The tensioner on the backstay also allows us to trim and tune the rig to get a better shape of the sails.

The shrouds are the wires or lines used on modern sailboats and yachts to support the mast from sideways motion.

There are usually four shrouds on each side of the vessel. They are connected to the side of the mast and run down to turnbuckles attached through toggles to the chainplates bolted on the deck.

• Cap shrouds run from the top of the mast to the deck, passing through the tips of the upper spreaders.
• Intermediate shrouds  run from the lower part of the mast to the deck, passing through the lower set of spreaders.
• Lower shrouds  are connected to the mast under the first spreader and run down to the deck – one fore and one aft on each side of the boat.

This configuration is called continuous rigging. We won’t go into the discontinuous rigging used on bigger boats in this guide, but if you are interested, you can read more about it here .

Shroud materials

Shrouds are usually made of 1 x 19 stainless steel wire. These wires are strong and relatively easy to install but are prone to stretch and corrosion to a certain degree. Another option is using stainless steel rods.

Rod rigging

Rod rigging has a stretch coefficient lower than wire but is more expensive and can be intricate to install. Alternatively, synthetic rigging is becoming more popular as it weighs less than wire and rods.

Synthetic rigging

Fibers like Dyneema and other aramids are lightweight and provide ultra-high tensile strength. However, they are expensive and much more vulnerable to chafing and UV damage than other options. In my opinion, they are best suited for racing and regatta-oriented sailboats.

Wire rigging

I recommend sticking to the classic 316-graded stainless steel wire rigging for cruising sailboats. It is also the most reasonable of the options. If you find yourself in trouble far from home, you are more likely to find replacement wire than another complex rigging type.

Relevant terms on sailboat rigging and hardware

The spreaders are the fins or wings that space the shrouds away from the mast. Most sailboats have at least one set, but some also have two or three. Once a vessel has more than three pairs of spreaders, we are probably talking about a big sailing yacht.

A turnbuckle is the fitting that connects the shrouds to the toggle and chainplate on the deck. These are adjustable, allowing you to tension the rig.

A chainplate is a metal plate bolted to a strong point on the deck or side of the hull. It is usually reinforced with a backing plate underneath to withstand the tension from the shrouds.

The term mast head should be distinct from the term masthead rigging. Out of context, the mast head is the top of the mast.

A toggle is a hardware fitting to connect the turnbuckles on the shrouds and the chainplate.

How tight should the standing rigging be?

It is essential to periodically check the tension of the standing rigging and make adjustments to ensure it is appropriately set. If the rig is too loose, it allows the mast to sway excessively, making the boat perform poorly.

You also risk applying a snatch load during a tack or a gybe which can damage the rig. On the other hand, if the standing rigging is too tight, it can strain the rig and the hull and lead to structural failure.

The standing rigging should be tightened enough to prevent the mast from bending sideways under any point of sail. If you can move the mast by pulling the cap shrouds by hand, the rigging is too loose and should be tensioned. Once the cap shrouds are tightened, follow up with the intermediates and finish with the lower shrouds. It is critical to tension the rig evenly on both sides.

The next you want to do is to take the boat out for a trip. Ensure that the mast isn’t bending over to the leeward side when you are sailing. A little movement in the leeward shrouds is normal, but they shouldn’t swing around. If the mast bends to the leeward side under load, the windward shrouds need to be tightened. Check the shrouds while sailing on both starboard and port tack.

Once the mast is in a column at any point of sail, your rigging should be tight and ready for action.

If you feel uncomfortable adjusting your rig, get a professional rigger to inspect and reset it.

How often should the standing rigging be replaced on a sailboat?

I asked the rigger who produced my new rig for Ellidah about how long I could expect my new rig to last, and he replied with the following:

The standing rigging should be replaced after 10 – 15 years, depending on how hard and often the boat has sailed. If it is well maintained and the vessel has sailed conservatively, it will probably last more than 20 years. However, corrosion or cracked strands indicate that the rig or parts are due for replacement regardless of age.

If you plan on doing extended offshore sailing and don’t know the age of your rig, I recommend replacing it even if it looks fine. This can be done without removing the mast from the boat while it is still in the water.

How much does it cost to replace the standing rigging?

The cost of replacing the standing rigging will vary greatly depending on the size of your boat and the location you get the job done. For my 41 feet sloop, I did most of the installation myself and paid approximately $4700 for the entire rig replacement.

Can Dyneema be used for standing rigging?

Dyneema is a durable synthetic fiber that can be used for standing rigging. Its low weight, and high tensile strength makes it especially popular amongst racers. Many cruisers also carry Dyneema onboard as spare parts for failing rigging.

How long does dyneema standing rigging last?

Dyneema rigging can outlast wire rigging if it doesn’t chafe on anything sharp. There are reports of Dyneema rigging lasting as long as 15 years, but manufacturers like Colligo claim their PVC shrink-wrapped lines should last 8 to 10 years. You can read more here .

Final words

Congratulations! By now, you should have a much better understanding of standing rigging on a sailboat. We’ve covered its purpose and its importance for performance and safety. While many types of rigs and variations exist, the hardware and concepts are often similar. Now it’s time to put your newfound knowledge into practice and set sail!

Or, if you’re not ready just yet, I recommend heading over to my following guide to learn more about running rigging on a sailboat.

Sharing is caring!

Skipper, Electrician and ROV Pilot

Robin is the founder and owner of Sailing Ellidah and has been living on his sailboat since 2019. He is currently on a journey to sail around the world and is passionate about writing his story and helpful content to inspire others who share his interest in sailing.

Very well written. Common sense layout with just enough photos and sketches. I enjoyed reading this article.

Thank you for the kind words.

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When should standing rigging be replaced?

• Thread starter Project_Mayhem
• Start date Nov 9, 2020
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

Project_Mayhem

I've read that standing rigging should be replaced anywhere from 10 all the way up to 20 years and also simply based on condition. My boat has been in fresh water all its life. To the best of my knowledge it hasn't had a trailer until last year so the mast was up through the winter. Most recent receipt was for lower stays 10 years ago. Overall condition is good with some kinks here and there. No signs of corrosion or stray strands anywhere. Would you replace this?  

If you have (reasonable) evidence that the PO replaced only the worst sections, it's safe to assume that the rest of the rig is getting ancient and failure prone. 20 years is what we go by for fresh water usage, for a max time.... and matter of fact we are now replacing our 2004 complete rig. Be sure to replace the turn buckles also -- not much more $, and it's great to be sure of the integrity of the entire rig.  

Standing rigging replacement. Just got home from my first sail with my 7 year grandson on my 47 year old boat. One of his first observations “Granddad that’s a pretty big pole. Is it going to fall down, cause that would hurt.” When and why do you change standing rigging. Easy answer “before it can fall down.” There is sailors knowledge based on observations and experiences that have formed the rules of thumb. 6-10 years for salt water exposed rigging and 15-25 years for fresh water rigging. Rough guides that depend on location of the boats sailing experience, how the boat has been used, and how the boat will be used. On a new to me boat I want to know the condition by inspection of the rigging and all the connections to the mast and hull. If I’m a day sailor with close proximity to repairs and my mast is easily fixed/taken down that is different than if I am planning an extended cruise isolated from repair resources and skilled help. Racing and heavy weather sailing tests the strength of the rigging. Replacement of the rigging components is more frequent and based on inspection. Kinks in wire is like chafe on a line. It requires more careful consideration of condition, usage, and inspection for signs of failure. Proper size and material components for the rig are further consideration. When I refitted my mast and rigging I had the help of a seasoned rigger. He advised that with the size of my mast, the manufacturer was known to have undersized the rigging. Based on my sailing plans he suggested we increase the wire and components one size. I base my decisions on my planned usage and condition of rig more than on a number of years. The reactive answer to your question is a probable Yes it is time. The resulting knowledge of “The Rigging” was new in 2021, is peace of mind and will serve a little should you decide to sell at a future date. Also there is a sense of confidence when that thunderstorm approachs that the rigging is new and solid. It should be one less worry about will we weather the storm. Now those 20 year old sails might be the next issue. Good luck.  

Project_Mayhem said: Overall condition is good with some kinks here and there. Click to expand

Project_Mayhem said: ...I've read that the inner stays rarely snap. Does that mean that replacement time for those is longer? Click to expand

ontherocks83

On our old boat we had the Port Aft lower shroud fail while sailing. The mast stayed up, but it sounded like a gun shot and was scary as hell. On our new boat the PO could not remember when or provide receipts to how old the standing rigging was. When applying for insurance they either wanted proof that the rigging was under 10 years old or to have a rigger inspect it and report its condition. I ended up just replacing all of the standing rigging through rigginonly.com in Fairhaven Ma. They were awesome to deal with and the price was very reasonable. To be honest I feel much more comfortable knowing the age and condition of the rigging especially when the wind picks up. And realistically all of the rigging on a 25' boat should not be expensive at all.  

ontherocks83 said: I ended up just replacing all of the standing rigging through rigginonly.com in Fairhaven Ma Click to expand

dlochner said: For Rigging Only . If you don't live nearby, call them and then send them the old rigging, they will duplicate it. Good service, good quality, nice people. Click to expand

I think another factor to consider is how much of the "life time" of the rigging was spent with the boat in the water and the mast up. A boat in the water is in constant motion and the rigging experiences constant micro shock loads even when sitting in the slip. A boat spending most of the last 10 years on a trailer with the mast in a cradle has only corrosion to consider. It will always be a judgment call. You can't eliminate all risk on a sailboat and how to make that call will be different bassed on an individual's risk tollerance.  

Don't forget that this site will also replace your rigging. Just a FYI. dj  

Step 1 - Hire a professional rigger with a good reputation to do a thorough survey of your standing AND running rigging. Let them know any of your concerns before they get started. Step 2 - Evaluate their recommendations and decide for yourself. I just had a full rigging inspection done and the evaluation split the recommendations into: - "Good" (inspected and no action required) - "Watch" (no immediate action required but inspect regularly and plan to replace in the near future). In one case my VHF antenna's protective cover had UV degraded to the point of compromise and at some point the rigger felt the freezing and thawing of moisture entering the antenna would cause it to fail. I opted to replace now. - "Action now" (potential for failure soon). One example here was my mainsail halyard whose splice had UV degraded to the point the strength was compromised. I opted to replace now. Two other side benefits - if I have a rig failure I have a half leg to stand on with insurance that I did my best to maintain my rigging, having had a recent full inspection by a rigging company and rectified all known problems. Also, piece of mind that I'm not ASSUMING my rig is fine, but I have photographic evidence and expert advice of that (they took 141 photos during the inspection). I bought the 2009 boat in 2018 with no record of any rigging inspection or maintenance, so I figured the time was right at 11 years in salt water for a beefy B&R rig. They also discovered during the inspection that all my bolts on my radar were backing out - some nearly ready to fall to the deck (they fixed on the spot) and found my radar wire seal had popped out of the mast (fixed that on the spot). Worth EVERY BIT of the $150 I spent on it.  

I would think at the first notice of a few broken strands in more than two of the wires. When the rig is tuned the wires are stretched. Before re-tuning the rig the mast base, turnbuckles and stay fixtures should be inspect. A boat with sound supports should not require re-tuning in less than 5 years. Any requirement to re-tune the rig more often than that would point to wires been stretched beyond their tensile strength minimums. The most important determinant would be the boat's use; a boat used for racing or offshore cruising would require the wires to be inspected and replace more often. Boats used for coastal cruising, week ending or day sailing may go longer. I personally take stock of a pleasure boat's components and their age and will not load an older boat's rigging as much as I would a newer one. I have broken more than my share of components in newer boats while a lot less in older boats. I agree with a general average of 20 years for replacing the standing rigging.  

This is some excellent information! I'm on Lake Michigan. I push the boat hard whenever conditions allow and am always a bit leery of its old rigging. I'll pull the standing rigging and as much hardware as reasonably possible (tangs, bolts, pins, turnbuckles, etc) and drop it off to a local rigger. I found some tests that some SBO folks had done many years ago on the O'Day 25's standing rigging. Their solidworks simulations revealed the rigging was on the lighter side. I'll also inquire about upgrading to one size up.  

Benny17441 said: I would think at the first notice of a few broken strands in more than two of the wires. Click to expand

Timm R Oday25

When we brought our Oday 25 home ,I knew judging from the lack of care the previous owner shown the rigging might also be suspect. Every spring I replaced a set of shrouds . It was about $200 each spring. If there is a kink from a shroud or a stay ,it usually happens from stepping the mast .I've learned to not be in a hurry .  

I'll agree that most of the kinks were created during stepping or prepping for storage  

The reason it is a scheduled item is that a visual inspection prolly won't detect defects. Maybe dying or some other high tech test would. But you can't really detect corrosion down into the swage. I recently sailed on a boat that had rust around the wire/swage on all the shrouds. I think the owner needs to replace those but there's a Covid problem. The good news is that after a spirited sail, which was pretty physical, my hip didn't hurt. Every other muscle did but the hip was fine and I think I'm good to go.  

David in Sandusky

It sounds to me that the question is when, not if you will go for new rigging. When I thought about it this way, it seemed easy to give ourselves 20 years of confidence for our Lake Erie boat, rather than take the risk of waiting. We are cruisers who sail around 500 nm per year, and are able to avoid frequent encounters with heavy weather by laying over if storms are in the offing.  

David in Sandusky said: It sounds to me that the question is when, not if you will go for new rigging. Click to expand

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Standing Rigging Replacement

• By Ronnie Simpson
• Updated: April 24, 2018

Reaching out of the channel in a moderate breeze, Quiver leaned on her big, overlapping genoa and accelerated up to hull speed. Surrounded by a fleet of vessels of similar speed, we had managed a clean and conservative start to our first Friday night beer-can race on my new-to-me cruising yacht. The headsail was eased and furled slightly before we reached the final red channel marker. As I turned up, the mainsail was trimmed in and the now-smaller jib sheeted home. Quiver powered up, heeled over and took off upwind. The Doug Peterson-designed 34-footer was clearly in her element when going uphill, and I looked forward to working our way through the fleet on the long port-tack beat toward Oahu’s Diamond Head .

Mere seconds after going hard on the wind, there was a loud bang. And then the headstay went slack. Without enough time to contemplate whether the mast was going to stay upright, I quickly evaluated the situation and decided to turn up into the wind instead of bearing away to a run. Once in irons, I handed off the helm and ran two spinnaker halyards forward to help secure the mast. Amazingly, we were still able to furl the jib. Motorsailing back to the dock with just a mainsail up, I played every possible scenario through in my head, unable to diagnose exactly what had happened or what had broken.

Back at the dock, there was ample daylight left to pull the headstay and furler down to investigate — much more easily done with the presence of a few friends. At first, nothing appeared to be broken at the bottom or the top, making it that much more confusing as to what had failed. Once I pulled the furler drum apart, however, I quickly found the smoking gun. The toggle at the bottom of the headstay, which connects to another toggle and effectively lives inside of the furler, was extremely corroded and had failed catastrophically. Fortunately for me and the boat, which I had purchased just five days earlier, the failed toggle could not fit through the furler’s aluminum foil; that was all that kept the headstay from physically separating and the boat potentially dismasting.

The entire experience was a shocker, to say the least. I had sailed the boat on a sea trial with the previous owner as part of the purchase. In 20 knots of trade-wind breeze, we sailed into the channel all powered up, with a reef in the main and a partial jib, with not a care in the world. Back at the dock, I had a friend help crank me aloft to complete a rig inspection, something that was very common for me to do in my years of working as a professional yacht rigger and as crew and preparateur on high-end racing yachts in the San Francisco Bay area. When all looked satisfactory up the rig, I bought the boat for $10,000 cash and sailed her back to Waikiki that day. Five short days and a couple more daysails later, the one rigging component that was out of sight during my visual inspection nearly brought the entire rig crashing down on my first Friday race with the boat.

Following the old handyman’s adage of “measure twice, cut once,” my helpers, Mike and Kristen, and I all took great care to get the measurements right before placing our order for new rigging.

After a trip to the chandlery and an afternoon work session with a friend, I had the blown-apart toggle replaced with a shiny new one, making the boat, in theory at least, perfectly sailable. Without fully knowing how old the standing rigging was, however, I decided that now was the time to fully rerig Quiver . I had planned on doing this before I did any serious sailing with the boat, but after our early mishap, this expensive yet basic maintenance project took on a new urgency. While rerigging the boat, I would also inspect the chainplates and make sure that all was structurally sound with them. I had dismasted a boat before, and as much fun as my time fixing that boat had been, I sincerely didn’t need to dismast another.

First things first: I needed to measure the rig for new stays, so I grabbed my mast-climbing gear and got right to work (see “Going Up,” at the end of this article).

As I headed aloft, I took a minimum of tools and cranked myself up the mast, taking the butt end of a 100-foot tape measure with me. With a helper at the bottom, I held the zero mark on the tape measure tightly against the center of the clevis pin at the top of each shroud (depending on how your stays are attached to the mast, look for the center of the load-bearing point at the top).

Standing on deck with the spool end of the tape measure, my helper pulled the tape tight and measured to the center of the clevis pin at deck level. Once he called out a measurement to me, we would take our respective ends of the tape off of the shrouds and then measure again. Once we were confident that we had it measured as accurately as possible — down to one-twentieth of an inch — we recorded the measurement and moved on to the next. In some cases where there were slight differences between port and starboard (only a couple tenths or a half inch) we just averaged the two sides and took that as our measurement for the new shrouds.

Following the old handyman’s adage of “measure twice, cut once,” my helpers, Mike and Kristen, and I all took great care to get the measurements right before placing our rigging order.

Getting boat parts and work done in Hawaii can often be a challenge because there are fewer marine facilities and resources in the islands than there are on the mainland, and everything is an expensive and slow ship or plane ride away. As a result, a bit of resourcefulness is always of benefit when cruising or living in a remote place. In my case, the resourcefulness was measuring the rig myself and ordering all of the parts from an outfit that I knew could fill the order in a timely fashion, give me great service and get me better deals on parts than I could achieve locally. I called up my old friend Logan at Rigworks in San Diego. He was pumped to get the opportunity to help out and got right back to me with an invoice, all ­done up with some good-guy pricing. Everything was in stock, and they could have my shiny new rigging to me in a week. Perfect.

Comparing apples to apples, it’s interesting to note that the rigging for my Peterson 34 was right at about double what it was for my Cal 27 and Cal 29, owing to the nature in which boats get exponentially more expensive as they get larger.

With the rigging on the way, I needed to have two chainplates made locally. The smallest chainplates on the boat, for the forward lower shrouds, needed replacing as the starboard one had a crack in it. My quickest and most convenient option ended up being a general machine shop located in an industrial zone in an alley in Honolulu. Ed Dang Machine Works custom ordered 316 stainless-steel stock and, using the originals as patterns, built two custom chainplates and backing plates for a reasonable price. Built in the afternoon on a Friday, they came out a bit off and had to be remade. The machinist fully owned up to his mistake, apologized for the inconvenience and remade the chainplates the same day, for the original price, which was greatly appreciated because I was on a mission to get Quiver back on the water on time and on budget.

Installing the new chainplates, backing plates and cover plates was straight­forward and simple. I also made a point to pull a couple of other chainplates out for visual inspections. Like the headstay’s lower toggle failure that easily could have dismasted the boat, it’s usually the hidden part of a chainplate, where it passes through the deck, that poses the biggest potential risk. Corrosion can develop there because of a lack of oxygen, causing the metal to fail.

Once the new rigging arrived, it was merely a job of installing nine shrouds one by one and then tackling the hardest, the headstay, last.

Slacking off all four lower shrouds before going aloft, I cranked myself up to the first of the two sets of spreaders and locked off my block-and-tackle harness with a double slipknot. Carefully unpinning one shroud at a time, I tied a tag line through the marine eye fitting and slowly lowered each shroud down to my helper, who would then remove the old wire and tie on the new one. Pulling the new shroud into place and then untying it from the tag line, I could then pin each shroud to the mast.

Carefully unpinning one shroud at a time, I tied a tag line through the marine eye fitting and slowly lowered each shroud down to my helper, who would then remove the old wire and tie on the new one. Pulling the new shroud into place and then untying it from the tag line, I could then pin each shroud to the mast.

Installing the new shrouds with the rig up, in the slip, is a surprisingly easy job, especially when you have competent help and no major hiccups. With proper techniques and a thoroughly planned, safety-first approach, it is well within the scope of many cruising sailors to measure, remove, replace and potentially repair their own rigging.

A few weeks and a few thousand dollars after nearly dismasting, Quiver sailed out of the same channel, hung a left at the last red marker and turned hard on the wind again. The drama of headstay ­failure was over.

With the nine new shrouds in place, it was time to move on to the headstay, which would be by far the most difficult and laborious task. Tying an 1⁄8-inch Dyneema messenger line around a rigging component at the top of the headstay and then securing it to the masthead, I ensured that I could not drop the headstay while unpinning it, which was critical because the headstay weighs so much more than any other shroud due to the furling unit and its aluminum foil extrusion.

After unpinning and lowering the entire unit to the dock, we chopped off the swageless eye fitting at the top. There are methods of splicing an old headstay to a new one to help pull the new headstay in place, but with a foil that looked fairly large and easy to work with, we just pulled out the old wire and fed the new one up the foil, jiggling it around each time it got stuck at a joint between two sections. With the new headstay now in place, I measured it and used a hacksaw to cut it to the proper length. Next, I picked apart the strands and carefully installed a Hayn Hi-Mod swageless fitting, making sure to use anti-corrosion Tef-Gel where needed.

Once everything was ready, I went back aloft, pulled up the new headstay and pinned it back in place. It wasn’t exceptionally easy to pull the shroud up and install it while 50 feet in the air, but again, with a thoroughly planned, safety-first approach, it was quite a manageable task.

Though I still plan to pull the mast and give it a thorough overhaul before any long-distance cruising, Quiver now has brand-new standing rigging and a couple of new chainplates. A few weeks and a few thousand dollars after nearly dismasting my new vessel, I sailed Quiver out of the same channel, hung a left at the last red marker and turned hard on the wind again. The drama of headstay failure was replaced with the sheer pleasure of sailing a good and powerful 34-foot tiller boat upwind.

Over the next 19 hours, the breeze eventually went light, and died altogether a couple of times, but my thrown-together crew of four sailed to Lahaina, on the island of Maui, for Quiver ‘s maiden voyage with the upgraded rig.

Power-reaching into Lahaina at 0100 with a stiff offshore breeze, I had my first epic bit of night-sailing on the boat. I had sailed to Maui to attend my close friend “Uncle” Tony’s wedding. He had sailed his previous Kaufman 47 Knot Tide Down to New Zealand from Hawaii, alongside my old Cal 2-27 Mongo. The night before the wedding, Quiver served up a picture-perfect sunset whale-watching tour for the bride and groom and some of their close friends, complete with numerous humpback sightings. It was a fond new memory to add to my collection from the past.

While I still have many more projects to complete before taking off on my first long bluewater cruise aboard the 34-footer, the unfortunate gear failure just after purchasing Quiver turned into a valuable experience that signaled the beginning of another good old boat’s resurrection. Quiver was already in better nick than she had been in years, and the dream of voyaging to distant lands was well and truly back alive after months of boatlessness. After a ripping sail home to Oahu via the north shore of Molokai, Quiver had proved herself. Only one question still remained: Where on earth will you take me, boat?

Going Up: Ascending a Mast

Before working on any mast — unless it’s a crewed race boat with lots of muscle to haul me aloft — I much prefer to assemble my own rig-ascending setup as opposed to being dependent on a helper to help crank me up and down the spar. To do this, I use my bowman’s harness, which is essentially just a rock-climbing harness, and attach a block and tackle to it.

I use a 3-to-1 purchase, meaning that I need roughly four times as much rope as the mast is long. In the case of Quiver, that meant buying about 200 feet of 5⁄16-inch double-braid polyester line. A 4-to-1 purchase is also quite useful; it merely costs and weighs a bit more, along with the additional rope required. There are many other ways to ascend a mast, but for performing work aloft by one’s self or pulling rigging jobs on the side, the block and tackle attached to a harness or bosun’s chair is my preferred method. Once I reach the desired height, I use a double slipknot to secure myself in place.

Ronnie Simpson, a frequent CW contributor, is a sailor and writer living in Honolulu while he pursues a degree in integrated multi­media at Hawaii Pacific University. He is the co-founder of a wounded veterans sailing nonprofit .

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SAIL & POWER

Making yachts work.

With over 30 years of expertise in yacht rigging and mast and spars restoration, we are thrilled to unveil our latest endeavour—a specialized business dedicated to comprehensive boat restoration services for power and sail yachts. Driven by a commitment to better serve our esteemed customers, we have assembled a dedicated team specifically for this venture. Our skilled team of artisans and technicians possesses over three decades of experience, extensive knowledge, and expertise in working with both power and sail yachts, ensuring that every aspect of your boat receives meticulous attention. From hull restoration, keel bolt replacement, and engine maintenance to electrical system upgrades and interior refurbishments, we use high-quality materials and employ the latest techniques to deliver outstanding results. Whether your yacht requires routine maintenance, emergency repairs, or a complete refit, our mission is to exceed your expectations and provide exceptional customer satisfaction. Trust us to harness the power of our 30 years of experience and sail your boat into a new era of excellence on the water.

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WE MAKE RIGGING WORK

YACHT  RIGGING ​

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PHYSICS. ART. EXPERIENCE

RIGGING SERVICES

Almost all mast failures are caused by problems in the standing or running rigging, many of which could have been easily resolved if caught early. Regular inspections and services, either before major events for racing yachts or annually for cruising boats can save money, time and potentially lives, as well as increase performance, and enjoyment and improve the chances of a successful voyage.

RIGGING INSPECTIONS

360° APPROACH

Rigit rig inspection service is a 360° comprehensive check of the mast and all its component parts.

Masts bend and flex as a normal part of sailing, but over time this causes wear and tear. The marine environment is particularly unforgiving and worn protective coatings can quickly escalate into much larger problems.

Our experienced team know exactly what warning signs to look for and regular inspections can mean the difference between a quick fix and a broken mast.

RIG SURVEYS

PRE-PURCHASE

Pre-purchase surveys are a valuable tool when looking into purchasing a new boat.  The findings could save you from unwanted bills later on, put you in a better bargaining position or even show you how you could improve the yacht's performance after purchasing it.

Many insurance companies require surveys to be regularly completed.

Rigit can complete a survey to meet the insurance company’s requirements .

RIG TUNNING

PERFORMANCE

All masts bend under load as the standing rigging stretches. At its most basic, rig tuning is making sure the mast bends only in the places and directions it is designed to move, without exceeding it’s designed limitations or falling over.

Once those basic requirements have been met, rig tuning becomes the art of controlling the exact amount of flex to balance power, performance through waves and upwind speed, with consideration to the design and purpose of the hull, the cut of the sails and the requirements of the crew.

Every boat, whether cruising or racing, can benefit from a rig tune by one of Rigit experienced professionals.

NEW MAST COMMISSIONING

EXPERIENCE & PARTNERS

Measuring and specifying a replacement or upgraded mast for a boat is a complex process. The original mast must be exactly measured and the replacement specified. A naval architect may need to be involved in the design or certification of any changes.

Rigit has links with a variety of experienced designers and builders of masts across the world and can liaise with the most suitable supplier to meet the requirements of a boat and ow ner.

RUNNING RIGGING REPLACEMENT

EXTENSIVE RANGE

Gone are the good old days when manila & hemp were the staples of cordage. Wire running rigging has also been and gone, much to the joy of bow teams everywhere. The choice of rope now available can be bewildering. At Rigit our professional riggers can inspect your original running rigging, supply and install appropriate replacements as necessary from our extensive range.

Different ropes; i.e. Polyester, Dyneema, PBO, require different splicing techniques and we have the resources and experience to make the correct type of splice for the reliable joining or termination for all types of mod ern rope.

STANDING RIGGING REPLACEMENT

EXTENSIVE CAPABILITIES

Whether you’re replacing your standing rigging as an insurance requirement, after an incident or as a precaution before a long voyage, Rigit has one of the best best equipped workshops able to handle swaging and load testing of even largest rigs.

Our expertise and products range from cost-effective and well-proven WIRE RIGGING through ROD SYSTEMS that benefit from lower weight aloft and decreased windage, offering better overall performance for yachts but at an increased cost. FIBRE RIGGING, specifically PBO and Kevlar-based systems, offers massive weight savings over the other types and can work exceptionally well, but understanding the material by your Rigger is essential. At Rigit, we have a great deal of experience in all these different types and can advise you on the best type for your boat.

PARTS SERVICING

AUTHORISED SERVICE CENTRE

Regular service of parts reduces wear and tear and keeps things working at their best; whether it’s parts that should move, or parts that shouldn’t.

Regular parts servicing is an important part of preventative maintenance that allows for sacrificial wear pieces to be replaced, waterproofing and protective coatings to be renewed and moving parts to be kept well lubricated. 

We are Authorised service partner for many brands.

LATEST TECHNOLOGY

Whether you have a specific upgrade in mind or you have something you’d like to improve but you’re not sure how to do it, Rigit has the connections and experience to help.

We have connections with a number of industry leading suppliers of both cruising and racing technology and we pride ourselves on remaining up to date with the latest improvements and developments.

Our staff are all passionate sailors and are more than happy to advise on anything you might want to achieve.

SAIL SERVICE

The sails are the engine of all yachts and as such should receive the attention that they deserve. We can provide five main services to boat owners; Sail Inspection, Cleaning, Repair, UV Proofing and the supply and fitting of new Sails.

SAIL INSPECTION

SAIL CLEANING

SAIL REPAIR

UV-PROOFING

NEW SAIL SUPPLY & FITTING

MASTS & SPARS

Over the years we have serviced and supplied hundreds of masts and spars as a replacement or new commissions for both small and large sailboats. We are supported by almost every world manufacturer to ensure your yacht is fitted with the most optimal mast and spar combination. Each is built to the specific requirement of the boat. We provide full service including measurements, supply, transport and installation. 

HEADSAIL REEFING & FURLING SYSTEMS

Originally there was only one way to reduce the sail area of a headsail to suit the changing weather conditions, a different sail was used. This meant that most yachts carried at least four headsails; Genoa, Nos. 1 to 3 Jibs and sometimes a Storm jib. And for most racing boats this is still essentially what happens. However for club racers and the cruising sailor things have changed dramatically. Improvements in both furling systems and the ability of sailmakers to use modern cloths and to have a better understanding of how to cut a genoa that will keep its shape when reefed mean that often only one headsail is needed. Let the team at RigIt guide you into making the best choice according to your needs and budget.

MAINSAIL REEFING & FURLING

There are two methods of reefing or furling a mainsail; In-mast or In-boom. IN-BOOM Furling Systems are a fairly new concept but are becoming increasingly popular and outperform   In-mast systems where once the mast is in place and the rigging is fixed it is not possible to alter the bend of the mast. Doing so would negate the sailor’s ability to reef or furl the mainsail into the mast.  At RigIt we have the experience necessary to discuss the various options that are available to allow you to make the right choice for your boat.

HO LOW REEFER

FLYING SAILS REEFING AND FURLING 

Over the past decade there has been a trend in sail plans to increase the size of mainsails and to have non-overlapping jibs. In light weather this has meant that yachts tend to be under powered forward of the mast. This has been counterbalanced by the creation of a new breed of sail, the flying sail; Code Zero, Solents, etc.

Amazing service from Rigit UK Pavel and his crew. The rigging was surveyed, reported on and an estimate was given on the same day. We cannot thank Rigit UK and Pavel enough for their speedy work, they took on the task and completed the job within days. I would strongly recommend Pavel and his crew for their excellent work carried out on our Najad Aphrodite 36. The new rigging has been properly tuned, tested at sea and looks fantastic!

Rigit Have provided a comprehensive Rig refit on our dilapidated Moody 31, installing new Furling gear, all standing rigging, all running rigging and all new mast electrics. Pav and the team have done a fantastic job in all areas with the finish throughout very high, in particular the rope work is excellentThe work took slightly longer than originally quoted, primarily due to the need to source parts for old / discontinued spars. Pav was very helpful throughout the process and guided me through various options as we went through, I would trust his expertise in any area of my boat now.

Exceptional service from Rigit UK. I needed help with the rig on my Rustler 36. Pav and his team booked me in at short notice in the busiest time of year. Riggers, Ned and Dom arrived on time to the minute, no waiting around on the dock. They expertly solved the problem at the top of the mast on a windy day. A wholly professional set up at reasonable cost. I will not hesitate to use Rigit again. 

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Our Services

At the yacht rigger we pride ourselves in offering top quality services, installations and maintenance to a wide range of products and brands., featured services, rigging & lines.

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Solar & Electrical

Hvac & refrigeration, marine solar & electrical systems.

The Yacht Rigger is proud to be the premier choice in Florida for marine solar installations on all vessels, from sailing catamarans, to cruising mono-hulls, to power cats and small motor trawlers. We’ve got your solar & electrical needs covered. Including new system installation, existing system troubleshooting, parts replacement, new system integration or additions, new battery banks and much more. Let our partnered ABYC certified technicians come out to take a look at your electrical needs and we’ll make sure you have an efficient, well integrated system up and running in no time.

Standing Rigging Production Facility

With our Wireteknik A350 swage machine and a production shop full of swage fittings, spools of KOS Stainless steel wire and wire rope, and brand new chrome bronze turnbuckles by the dozen, we can produce standing rigging from lifeline size – up to 5/8″ (16mm) standing rigging. Competitive pricing and top quality parts mean your new standing rigging will be safe for many years to come.

We have a very large inventory of Blue Wave standing rigging components on hand at all times. See our Blue Wave page for more details on this top quality Danish supplier.

We ship anywhere, so send us your orders for standing rigging and we’re happy to produce your rigging and ship it out to you, or come see us at the boat yard!

Lifeline Rigging

If you need your Lifeline rigging replaced, look no further. We offer full service Lifeline rigging replacement. We only use top of the line marine grade stainless steel products, and our A350 swaging machine can handle swaging up to 5/8″ (16mm) wire.

Let our team renew your Lifeline rigging and get back out on the water sailing safely.

Marina Wet Slips & Haul Out Facilities

In our wet slips we can accommodate catamarans up to 55′ with beam limitations at 30′. We have a large float bag on site for service work on catamarans such as thru-hull installations, sail drive removal, propeller work, and underwater light installations.

On the hard we are limited to a 16′ beam for haul out and offer full service bottom jobs as well as gelcoat repairs, propeller and shaft replacements, and even re-power projects (and more).

We do offer do it yourself “DIY” yard spaces, as well as DIY wet slip spaces, and all our wet slip spaces allow liveaboard and offer bathrooms with showers and laundry facilities.

Solar Frame & Arch Fabrication

We utilize the latest state of the art solar panels and build custom frames in house out of light weight marine grade bright anodized aluminium. (Stainless steel frame fabrication is also available if requested). Our goal is to maximize your vessel’s solar potential whilst maintaining minimalist concepts to create a beautiful, and highly functional end product.

Custom Frames Arches

Rigging Inspections & Consultations

The Yacht Rigger provides comprehensive rigging inspections on all masts to vessels located within our service area. We inspect all running and standing rigging. All rigging termination points are visually inspected. Sheave pins and sheaves inspected, spreaders, furler or headsail foils, and all gooseneck fittings. Electrical wiring is inspected for chafe/corrosion.

We also check all light fittings, blocks, cars, tracks, clutches, winches and any other hardware. A complete cleaning of all rigging ends, pins, and cars can be added if the mast is going into storage. We provide a detailed report of our findings, including suggestions for any additional parts and work required.

At the Yacht Rigger we also offer a consultation service designed to assist you with both troubleshooting as well as with selection of any new rigging parts, from winches or furling gear, to a new mast, no job is too big or too small. Please visit our Contact Us page and get in touch so that we can assist you!

HVAC (heat, ventilation, air conditioning) systems, helps to control the climate on your boat allowing you and your crew to enjoy the time on board all year long. Not only control the temperature on cold winters or hot summers, they also control the humidity levels, making the living area feel more comfortable and helping to keep the boat dry, increasing the life of electronics, fabrics, headliners, etc. reducing mold growth and other moisture related problems.

Investing in a new installation or upgrade of an existing one will extend your boating season and increase the value of your boat.

Winch Servicing

Servicing your winches regularly not only improves their longevity, but also greatly improves performance. Correctly cleaned and lubricated winches will operate faster, and require less force when grinding.

We can service all of your winches professionally, on site, in a matter of a few hours. We carry parts for most major brands and can source parts for almost any winch out there today.

Our riggers are highly competent splicers, capable of splicing any line in a given application. From basic polyamide docklines, to covered Vectran, we can assist you in selecting the correct line for the correct application. Be it a weight saving halyard for a race boat, or a topping lift for a cruiser, look no further than TYR.

Hardware Installation

At TYR we can supply all hardware relating to your mast and deck, for all brands of masts. Our team of expert riggers will guide you through getting the right equipment for your boat.

We supply many top of the line models of headsail furlers, including Selden Furlex and Harken. TYR can also provide servicing and spare parts for existing systems to ensure efficiency and reliability.

We supply a full range of blocks, clutches, cars and travelers from the leading brands Spinlock, Harken, Selden, and Ronstan. Be it a cruising boat wanting to maximize ease of use for all of running systems, or a high performance dinghy or racing yacht wanting to minimize weight, we will provide a product suited to your needs.

New Sails & Sail Covers

If you’re considering replacing your sails or sail covers, please get in touch with us through our  contact  portal. Our team has decades of experience in both cruising and racing and we’ve partnered with the most talented and detail oriented sailmakers and canvas specialists in the Tampa Bay area to offer you a comprehensive sail replacement service.

Our sail replacement service includes: Consultation – we’ll help you choose the sail material and cut that best suits your needs.

Measurement – if you fall within our service area we’ll come out to your boat and take precise measurements to make sure that your new sails perform optimally. We’ll also advise you regarding the variety of sail covers, mainsail storage systems, and sail furling systems available.

Installation – when your crisp new sails or sail covers are ready we’ll come out to your vessel and install them, to make sure they fit and perform exactly as needed.

Stern Arch & Davit Systems

If you are looking to store your tender on your stern, we have you covered. From large stern arches to smaller davit systems. We’ve partnered with suppliers from across the US to bring you the most cost effective, aesthetically pleasing, and practical solutions to this complex issue. We can also supply fully integrated solar and wind systems on top of our stern arches that will get you off the grid and ready to go out into the big blue!

Anchoring & Windlass Systems

We supply and install new windlasses, anchors, anchor chain, rode, and all the accessories in between. We can fabricate custom mounting platforms, install all the necessary switches, wiring, fuses, and additional batteries if needed.

Marine Electronics

At The Yacht Rigger we offer a comprehensive marine electronics service that includes new system installation, existing system troubleshooting, parts replacement, new system integration or additions, new battery banks and much more. Let our partnered ABYC certified technicians come out to take a look at your electrical needs and we’ll make sure you have an efficient, well integrated system up and running in no time.

Google Reviews

“ “ Stephen does regular work for me on rigging. He is very knowledgeable and dependable. First rate! ” Robert K

“ “ Steve and his crew listened to what we needed, then stopped by our just purchased 1997 Catalina 38 to look it over. In 10 minutes they diagnosed the issue, proposed a solution, removed the sail, gave me an estimate on money and time and off they went. Came in right on budget, hit the completion date on the mark, sent me photos to see the final product. Thoroughly professional and timely. I'd recommend these guys anytime, an will have them back on our boat as we need them for sure. ” Mike Conroy

“ “ Extremely knowledgeable in repair or upgrades to not just rigging, but all systems of sailboats. Professional and prompt service. These guys have helped my wife and I outfit our boat for live aboard cruising. From rigging replacement to solar panel install and also repair of systems specific to our boat, we couldn't have done it without them. Fair, reasonably priced, and always available for questions. 5 stars plus, nothing more I can say. ” Zach Duncan

“ “ These are the most professional guys I've met in the marine industry in St. Pete. They were very helpful in getting my boat ready for passage on a tight timeline. The job was done in time and on budget, but what really sets them apart is the fantastic communication. Highly recommend! ” Nate Mortensen

“ “ Great service. These guys are very knowledgeable. ” Pat M

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ARCH INSTALLATION TIPS

• Measure where you think The arch feet are going to land on the back of the boat, pick either the front or back leg landing positions and measure the span. Check for backing plate/nut access at these positions.
• Assemble the arch laying on dock and slide the sides into the bridge evenly until the leg span you measured is Approx 5-6” wider than your goal span. Tape the joints at the bridge using masking tape to stop it sliding further in when you are test fitting.
• Measure the “drop” from where you think the forward legs will land and the aft legs will land and trim the forward legs. Accordingly. I usually leave them a couple inches longer than I think they need to be, and do the final trim once I’m at the mocking up stage.
• Assemble the arch feet and install them, using string to secure them to the arch legs using a rolling hitch.
• Use a block and tackle or a truckers hitch to squeeze the legs together to match the span you are aiming for. No more than 6”.
• Hoist arch into position using topping lift or main halyard  (and two people) and test fit. At this point you can measure exactly how much you need to trim off the forward legs to make the arch fit level.
• If the arch needs to sit lower, once you have it level, you can trim both legs the same amount. Keep in mind that as the arch gets shorter the span will narrow slightly due to the geometry of the arch.
• Once you like the position, mark the feet in their positions using sharpie and lower the arch back to the dock. Release the block and tackle and drill/bolt the bridge. Drill and epoxy/bolt the feet into position.
• Hoist the arch again and check all landing positions on feet one final time. Mark bolt holes on gelcoat and move arch out of the way for drilling. Try to pick the forward or aft feet and do them in pairs, pick whichever set you think will allow you to bolt it down securely then pivot the arch back or forward to do the other pair after (check orientation of arch feet for pivot ability).
• Through bolt all feet and tighten. If fitting to an uneven surface, back fill the area behind the plate with thickened epoxy.
• Tighten all bolts on foot bases.

Salt Creek Marina and Yard Rules & Regulations (DIY & Storage)

“Common Sense, Compliance with Laws, Consideration Toward Others” (January 1, 2023)

This agreement shall be effective on the date hereunder by and between the undersigned Owner or Agent of the vessel(s) hereinafter (“Vessel Owner”) described below and Salt Creek Marina, Inc. and The Yacht Rigger LLC located at 107 15th Ave SE, St. Petersburg, FL 33701.

8/21/2023 UPDATE – If a hurricane system becomes a named storm and your boat is in one of our wet slips you MUST move it back to its original berth. The boat is not allowed to stay. The owner is responsible for planning with their preferred captain, or The Yacht Rigger has two captains on staff.

1. Fees: The Yacht Rigger and Salt Creek Marina reserves the right to change its rates upon one (1) months’ notice.

• Monohull DIY Dry Storage will be $900 monthly or $225 weekly, with a minimum of 1 week required. After the first 4 weeks, the rate will increase by $50 per week, for the remainder of the boat’s duration.
• Monohull Wet Slip will be $1,100 monthly or $275 weekly, with a minimum fee of $100.
• Catamaran Wet Slip will be $2200 monthly or $550 weekly.
• Haul / Block / Relaunch – One Time Charge $12 per foot
• Emergency Haulout – $25 per foot
• Short Haul – – – Special Haul to be scheduled by The Yacht Rigger or approved contractor only + $175 contractor fee (includes normal haul out rate)

2. Insurance: Vessel owners must provide insurance with Salt Creek listed as additional insurer on their vessel before arrival. Vessels must always be insured.

3. Hurricane & Summer Storm Season: June 1 – November 30 Haul out boats for storage or DIY work on the hard during this time are required to remove all canvas (including but not limited to Bimini, sail covers, dodgers, e.g.) as well as all sails on the boom or furlers. Remove all moveable equipment: canvas, sails, dinghies from davits, cushions, water toys, grills, biminis, roller furling sails, etc. Canvas and sails must be stored below and not on deck. Lash down everything you cannot remove tillers, wheels, booms.

4. Live Aboard – Wet Slip Only (Yacht Rigger Only Rule): Starting January 1st, 2024, customers may NOT stay on their vessel during electrical refit work or other major modifications or upgrades down below. Due to the nature of these projects requiring major upheaval down below within your living space and the need for our teams to work efficiently. Rigging and “above deck” type work will permit liveaboards. As much as we would love to accommodate liveaboards during this time, it is simply too inefficient for us and expensive for you, the customer. For vessels with excessive items on board preventing efficient work, we will provide on-site storage pods at market rates.

5. Third Party Warranties: This includes any warranty claim that is to be made against the original manufacturer or seller of the vessel or product. Should a warranty claim arise, The Yacht Rigger will estimate the job accordingly. It will then be up to the customer to obtain approval from the applicable 3rd party (boat manufacturer, spar manufacturer, etc.). If approved & immediately upon completion of the warranty issues, the customer is solely responsible for the payment of the work completed. It is then the responsibility of the customer to be reimbursed by the applicable 3rd party.

6. Yard Hours: The boatyard hours are 8:00am to 6:00pm, Monday- Sunday. The boatyard gate locks at 6:00pm. You may come check on your vessel, re-secure rigging, canvas and pump out water during business hours. Please check in with the office if you are near closing hours.

7. Utilities: Boatyard provides power & water to vessel owners as a part of their agreement so long as the owner fully adheres to all Rules and Regulations. When you are finished with the water hoses, turn them off and place them back neatly in the area you found them. Please ask a Salt Creek Marina Boatyard Employee for access to either option.

8. Outside Contractors/ Subcontractors With Management approval (determined individually) contractors may work on a storage vessel for a fee of $40 a day in addition to monthly storage/dockage fee. The owner shall be responsible for informing the office of any subcontractor working on the vessel for any purpose whatsoever. The subcontractor shall submit insurance before any work can commence. Salt Creek Marina and/or The Yacht Rigger reserves the right at its sole discretion to stop unsafe work practices and if deemed necessary to order the offending worker(s) to leave the site at the Owner’s/Skipper’s sole risk and expense.

9. Supplies: All paint including but not limited to, bottom paint, primer or barrier paint, haul or topside paint, varnish or otherwise any paint being applied to your vessel must be purchased through the Boatyard or approved by Management. This policy is for safety and environmental protection purposes of all persons operating in the Boatyard. Paint will normally arrive within 24hrs of purchase.

10. Paint Spraying: There shall be no spraying in the Boatyard under any condition. Any person spraying any paint will be immediately expelled and fines levied.

11. Cleanliness: All vessel owners shall be responsible for keeping their area clean and professional. The Boatyard reserves the right to charge the vessel owner for any cleanup required to comply with RR. All debris associated with boat repair activities must be disposed of daily. A dumpster is located near the parking area.

12. Disposal: There is a designed disposal station of 55 gal drums for oil and one for oily rags and filters located near the office door. PLEASE DO NOT PUT GASOLINE IN THESE DRUMS.

13. Facilities: Bathrooms are provided as a courtesy to all Customers. We will make our best efforts to keep it clean but reserve the right to limit access any time. Please use the outside sink for heavy clean up and use the indoor head/sink for bathroom purposes only. The Yacht Rigger has its own set of facilities to be used by its staff and customers. Please do not use SCM facilities.

14. Parking: Park in the designated parking area. Vehicles should be parked clear of travel lift path, not in storage areas, on the seawall or blocking boats. Salt Creek Marina and/or The Yacht Rigger is not responsible for vehicles that are damaged by equipment or conditions in the yard

15. Regarding noise outside of the scope of work not being completed, i.e., radio/stereo volume, please be respectful of neighboring boat owners’ tenants.

16. Salt Creek Marina and/or The Yacht Rigger is not responsible for any theft or loss of items left on or around the vessel.

17. The yard takes no responsibility for accidents, injury, or death to any persons in or working within the yard at any time. All people wishing to enter the boatyard for any reason do so at their own risk.

18. Failure to comply with these rules and conditions can result in additional charges if Salt Creek Marina and/or The Yacht Rigger personnel are required to do site cleanup operations and/or will be asked to remove your boat from the marina.

19. Additional Rules:

• Owners are not permitted to test engines, run water for AC or other purposes while on the hard. All electricity and water shall be for the sole purpose of working on their vessel and disconnected when unoccupied.
• There are to be no mobile AC / Heater Units or Refrigeration Units to be run on the hard.
•  No unfurling of sails will be permitted at any time, under any circumstance.
• There is to be no hot work, flame cutting, welding etc. to be done in the yard.
• Jack stands and blocking may only be used and moved by employees of Boatyard.
• Boatyard reserves the right to move vessels when needed without permission or notifying owners.
• Any trailer, dingy, mast, or other personal property not directly attached to the vessel must be pre-approved, additional charges will apply if approved.
• Packages – you are welcome to send packages to our address here, but please make sure they state your name and “CO The Yacht Rigger” and limit your packages to 5 a week.

Any modifications outside of these rules will be determined individually by Management. REMEMBER THESE RULES & REGULATIONS ARE FOR EVERYONE’S BENEFIT. PLEASE HELP KEEP THIS BOAT YARD A CLEAN & SAFE WORKPLACE. ** Salt Creek reserves the right to change these rules at any time.

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