best anchor for cruising sailboats

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

How to choose the right anchor

• February 23, 2015

Which of the many anchor designs is best for your boat? Vyv Cox helps you choose the best anchor for your style of cruising

Holding power is a crucial consideration, but it isn’t the only one. There’s also holding stability, penetration, strength, ability to re-set, ease of retrieval… Credit: Pierre Martin-Razi

Until the 1930s, there was little choice when it came to purchasing an anchor, the Fisherman being just about the only type available. In 1933, keen yachtsman Sir Geoffrey Ingram Taylor, a professor at Trinity College, Cambridge, invented the CQR. Yachting Monthly published his paper, The Holding Power of Anchors, in April 1934. Designs began to proliferate in the late 1980s and now we have close on 100 options. This is a guide to the types available and how best to select for the sort of anchoring you do. Read on to discover what we think are the 8 key attributes you need to consider when choosing your anchor. However, If you know what you’re looking for in an anchor and want to skip to our recommended choice then click here .

There was no alternative to the Fisherman anchor until Yachting Monthly published Sir Geoffrey Ingram Taylor’s design for the CQR in 1934

The 8 key attributes of a good anchor

1. materials.

Most anchors are galvanised steel

Most anchors are steel, galvanised for corrosion resistance. The carbon content should be below 0.21% to ensure ductility at all likely temperatures. In general, the flukes will be standard mild steel and the shank a constructional steel, perhaps with high manganese content, or HSLA (high strength, low alloy).

Aluminium is good for kedge anchors

Aluminium and stainless steel anchors require either sophisticated alloying or clever design features, such as hollow shanks, to obtain sufficient strength. This makes them expensive. Performance is generally satisfactory, perhaps not quite as good as steel equivalents. Aluminium’s light weight makes it ideal for kedge anchors and both materials offer good corrosion resistance.

There is still a widespread belief that a good anchor is aways a heavy anchor. This may well be true for some of the older types, in which the flukes’ tip loading was not maximised, and where the anchor sinks into the seabed under the influence of its own weight, known as ‘static setting’. It certainly holds true for Fisherman anchors.

However, the excellent performance of various types of aluminium anchor, both in tests and in the real world, shows quite clearly that weight is not necessarily a prerequisite for good holding power. It is a truism that anchors are marketed by weight but they hold by their area. Most modern anchors have a lot more surface area than older types of the same weight.

3. Penetration (sharpness)

An anchor with blunt flukes and an unballasted tip, such as this claw, won’t penetrate the substrate deeply

The key to achieving almost instantaneous penetration of the sea bed with a pull on the cable – known as ‘dynamic setting’ – is to maximise the weight acting on the tip of the anchor. If there is one factor that differentiates the ‘new generation’ anchors from the rest, this is it.

An anchor with sharp flukes and a ballasted tip, such as this Bügel, should burrow deep into the sea bed

Designers of new generation anchors (and some older ones, such as the Lewmar Delta) have maximised tip loading by adding weight in this area, either with lead or thicker steel, but also by reducing the weight of other components to the minimum required, for example the shank and flukes. When an anchor is at rest in the upright position, the only points in contact with the ground should be the tip and the far end of the shank. The angle that the fluke makes with the3 shank contributes to penetration once the tip has entered the bottom: the optimum angle for this is about 35°.

4. Fluke shape

Most older anchor designs have convex flukes

This means you can end up ploughing the sea bed

Flukes on new-generation anchors are concave, or perhaps flat, whereas on older anchors they are mostly convex. The great advantage of the concave shape is that once the tip has penetrated the bottom, it tends to dig itself ever deeper.

The flukes of newer designs tend to be concave

New generation anchors’ better tip weight and concave flukes combine to dig them well in

Indeed, these anchors can be difficult to break out of the sea bed after riding out a big blow. The combination of good penetration and efficient fluke shape achieves rapid dynamic setting, typically with a pull on the cable of one metre or less.

5. Shank shape

To improve overall weight distribution, the heavy, forged designs of yesteryear have been replaced by far thinner ones, stamped or cut from plate. Forged shanks had their advantages – their H or I shape gave them considerable lateral stiffness. To restore this stiffness, the flat plate of a modern shank must have high yield strength (400 to 800MPa). This is difficult to achieve in metals other than carbon steel. Shank shape is a strong contributory factor in dynamic setting. Unfortunately, a long, curved shank won’t stow on some yachts’ bow rollers.

6. Cost and value for money

New-generation anchors are expensive, due in part to advanced materials and construction methods but perhaps also to recoup development and marketing costs. At the other end of the scale are copies, cheaply made from low-grade materials, often sold online. In between lie the relatively recent plough anchors, Delta and Kobra II.

A genuine CQR is probably the most expensive steel anchor on sale, thanks to its forged construction. Expect to pay over £1,000 for a new-generation stainless steel anchor.

If you regularly spend long periods in remote anchorages, you’ll certainly reap the benefits of the more expensive types. Modern ploughs are about a third of the price of new-generation types and almost as effective in most circumstances – perfectly good for weekend and summer-cruise use. Occasional anchorers may well find a copy to be acceptable, unless it breaks or bends!

7. Resetting

Some anchors will ‘break out’ of the sea bed when the direction of pull changes

The best anchors stay put and swivel to face the new direction of pull

A bower anchor should reset itself when tide or wind change direction. Many newer designs can swivel in position without breaking out, but some anchors, most notably the flat types, tend to break out and skip across the surface of harder bottoms. Another problem with flat anchors, inevitable due to their design, is that chain dragging across the bottom can wedge between the shank and the flukes, preventing the anchor from resetting at all until the blockage has been freed.

8. Holding stability

The shape of a high-performance anchor also gives a subtle advantage. Older designs, both plough and flat, are unstable at higher loads, so they roll out and reset repeatedly, sometimes over a fair old distance. Not all plough anchors are unstable but those with a hinge almost certainly are.

Graphs from holding trials by the late Alain Poiraud: a hinged plough anchor grips and slips; a new generation anchor holds

Some anchors roll out of the sea bed under high load

The best ones just dig in deeper

What’s the best anchor for you and your boat?

For typical cruising use, and a peaceful night’s sleep at anchor, go for a modern plough

For maximum performance in extreme conditions, choose either a very heavy anchor of an older type or a somewhat lighter new generation anchor.

The Delta is Vyv’s choice for general-purpose cruising use

Many published tables give recommended anchor weights for boat length and in the past it has been widely accepted that going one or even two sizes bigger would offer the greatest anchoring security in the worst conditions. But new-generation anchors are different: when I bought mine, I was told the recommended size was sufficient for all foreseeable conditions. I cannot claim to have tested it to the limit, but after winds of around 50 knots it has been so deeply buried that I had great difficulty in recovering it.

For long-term cruising, or ultimate holding in storms, a new generation anchor is worth its hefty price tag

In my opinion, the Delta offers the optimum balance between performance and cost for the average cruising yacht. I replaced a 25lb CQR with a 25lb Delta more than 20 years ago, welcoming the step change in setting that it provided. We never dragged until that time in Greece, in mud with the consistency of thick custard. Deltas, and the similar Kobra II, are typically well under half the price of most new-generation anchors. The Kobra’s long, curved, shank is problematic to stow on some boats.

If you only want a ‘lunch hook’ for occasional use in fair weather, a cheap ‘copy’ anchor should suffice

Copy anchors have their place, for occasional anchoring at very low cost. They’re fine for lunch stops and overnights in light airs. For anything else, use the original article.

Delta anchor deals

Buy a Lewmar Delta anchor on Amazon (UK)

Buy a Lewmar Delta anchor on Amazon (US)

Buy a Lewmar Delta anchor on eBay

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18 Most Popular Sailboat Anchor Types

Being able to anchor out after having arrived in a cozy and isolated bay to enjoy the rest of the day in complete contentedness or simply anchoring right outside a marina to save a bit of time and money is an amazing luxury to have.

To properly set a sailboat anchor, however, requires a good quality, dependable anchor , so knowing the different sailboat anchor types is a must.

Knowing which sailboat anchor type is best for you depends on which conditions you’ll mostly be using your anchor. If you’re like most people, you’ll only need to choose between a few sailboat anchor types, but it’s always good to know about all the options available to you.

That’s exactly why I put together a list of the most popular sailboat anchor types that you’ll want to consider adding to your sailboat the next time you’re out on the water setting anchor.

However, there has been a resurgence in terms of anchor design over the years, so I’ll be distinguishing between the classic and modern sailboat anchor types.

What Makes a Good Anchor

Before we dive into the many different sailboat anchor types, we should quickly cover what makes a good anchor .

Depending on the circumstances, you’ll want one anchor over another. However, there are certain qualities we want in almost all of our anchors before we set out on a sailing adventure.

• Fast Dig in Time: It’s important that any anchor you use has the ability to dig into the seabed as fast as possible. The sooner the anchor is attached to the seabed, the earlier your chain will lay out.
• Buries Deep into the Seabed: Ensuring your anchor can bury well into the seabed means it’ll be firmly attached to the Earth. The anchor chain does most of the work when keeping your sailboat from moving much, but the anchor’s position must be solid.
• Holds a High Load: There are a lot of different sailboats of different sizes. Making sure the anchor you have has a sufficient surface area, flukes, and holding power is of the utmost importance for ensuring a strong holding power.
• Maneuvers Well During Tide and Current Shifts: There will be times when the tide, currents, and wind move your sailboat around while anchored out. Being confident your anchor can effectively maneuver under these conditions while staying well enough in place is a very important quality.

Classic Sailboat Anchor Types

Let’s take a look at some of the classic types of anchors used in sailboats.

You’ll most definitely see these anchor types in sailboats all over the world, so it’s a good idea to get accustomed to them and understand their advantages and disadvantages.

Fisherman/Admiralty Anchor

Probably the most common image of a sailboat anchor that’s conjured up in our heads is the traditional Fisherman/Admiralty anchor.

This sailboat anchor type is what we see on many coats of arms or similar symbols and can still be found on sailboats all over the world.

• Can be stowed flat.
• Holding power in sand, mud, or other loose seabed is good.
• Less likely to break due to few moving parts.

Disadvantages

• Relatively heavier than other anchors causing difficulty to move them.
• Damage to the sailboat can be caused by the anchor’s flukes when being tossed around.
• Possibility of the anchor chain getting tied up in the vertical fluke.

CQR/Plough Anchor

The CQR or Plough anchor was developed in 1933 in the UK and has been a very popular sailboat anchor type ever since.

Named CQR because it sounds like the word “secure” when being pronounced, it’s a versatile type of anchor since it can secure a sailboat even when tides and currents change all of a sudden.

• Holds very well in soft seabeds such as mud or sand.
• Relatively light anchor that still provides a strong holding power.
• Digs into the seabed well compared to other sailboat anchor types.
• Oddly shaped so stowing can be difficult.
• Moving parts can get damaged and can cause injuries to fingers.
• Sometimes requires a tripping line to remove from the seabed.
• Not ideal for seabed with kelp or hard sand.

Danforth Anchor

The Danforth anchor is a type of anchor for a sailboat that was developed back in the 1940s in the US and specifically designed for WW2 landing craft.

Since then they’ve been used in all kinds of sailboats and are a common sailboat anchor type for those anchoring often in loose seabeds, like sand or mud.

• Excellent hold when in the sand, mud, or other loose seabeds.
• Relatively light anchor that still provides a strong holding power (similar to the CQR anchor).
• Not ideal when anchoring in rocks.

Delta Anchor

Not unlike the design of a CQR/Plough anchor, a Delta anchor is a popular type of anchor for sailboats nowadays.

The main difference between a CQR anchor and a Delta anchor is that a Delta anchor has no moving parts and is thus fixed into one piece. This sailboat anchor’s been around since the 1980s and is a great alternative to a CQR anchor.

• No moving parts that pinch your fingers.

Bruce Anchor

Another popular anchor developed in the UK, the Bruce or Claw anchor was developed in the 1970s and has a reputation of being a good type of sailboat anchor in many settings.

This type of anchor doesn’t have any movable parts and has an effective way of realigning itself with changes in the wind and tide.

• Digs well into the seabed.
• Holds well in soft seabeds such as mud or sand.
• Easy to break out when pulling it in.
• Difficulty in penetrating seaweed or grass-like seabeds.

Grapnel Anchor

A Grapnel anchor is well suited for those looking to anchor in more rocky and coral-filled areas where there’s little seabed around that’s soft.

The great part about having a Grapnel anchor is that it can easily catch quickly by using its hooks to grab on to surrounding objects.

• Holds well in hard seabed environments such as rock or coral.
• Not ideal for soft seabeds like sand or mud.

Modern Anchor Types

Now that we’ve reviewed the more classical anchor types, let’s dive into the newer generation of sailboat anchor types that you’ll run into more and more as the years progress.

It’s not unlikely that you’ll find one of these newer generation anchors on your sailboat, so let’s see what they’re all about.

Bugel or Wasi Anchor

The Bugel or Wasi anchor was designed in Germany by a man named Rolf Kaczirek and set the stage for a new approach to anchor design around the world.

This anchor has a roll bar attached to a single delta that’s flat and sharply pointed allowing it to penetrate most seabeds it encounters.

• Digs into a diverse set of seabeds.
• Has a relatively lightweight.
• No moving parts.
• Relatively inexpensive to purchase.
• Roll bar moves weight away from the tip causing potential less digging.
• Not ideal for very large sailboats.

Spade Anchor

The Spade anchor is an innovative sailboat anchor type that was designed in France in 1996. It’s an extremely light anchor that has an effective gripping power that’s quite similar to a Delta anchor but instead compacts the floor much better.

The holding power of a Spade anchor is known to be extremely powerful.

• Very lightweight.
• Digs into the seabed quite well.
• Can be disassembled for easy stowing.

Rocna Anchor

One of the most popular types of anchors for sailboats today, the Rocna anchor is a very good choice for an anchor. It was originally designed in New Zealand in 2004 and has since taken the anchor industry by storm.

By combining the best design feature from the Bugel and Spade anchors, it truly has set itself apart. It’s by far the most popular for cruising sailboat worldwide.

• Very strong holding power.
• Has the ability to dig into almost any seabed.
• Excellent surface area.
• Difficult to stow sometimes due to the row bar component.

Manson Supreme Anchor

The Manson Supreme anchor was designed in 2003 and has become a popular sailboat anchor in recent years due to it being able to have a very high holding weight and ability to settle fast.

Since it has a dual operation shank, it’s able to effectively dig into all seabed types with ease. It even has the rollbar design that the more modern anchors are known for.

• Has been known to be heavy.

Bulwagga Anchor

The Bulwagga anchor not only has a funny-sounding name, but it’s also one of the more uniquely designed anchors in the world. Instead of having the normal three flukes, it has a total of three.

Needless to say, this anchor has been well tested and proven to be a highly effective anchor in many situations.

• Has the ability to dig into almost any seabed, especially in weeds, coral, and rocks.
• Easy to retrieve back onto the ship.
• Difficult to stow sometimes due to having three flukes.

Knox Anchor

The Knox anchor was invented by John Knox in Scottland and has an exceptional holding power similar to the Rocna anchor.

As a matter of fact, this anchor is able to hold 40 times its anchor weight, which is a stunning feat.

• Digs well into many types of seabed.
• Sometimes difficult when penetrating seaweed or grass-like seabeds.

Ultra Anchor

Known as one of the most innovative Spade-designed anchors, the Ultra anchor is rapidly becoming one of the most popular anchor types and is often seen as a replacement for the Bruce anchor.

It’s a rather heavy anchor since it’s made out of stainless steel and has lead inside the tip of its fluke. While not cheap, the Ultra anchor is known to work virtually guaranteed.

• Arguably the strongest and most reliable holding power.
• Very heavy to carry and retrieve.
• Relatively expensive compared to other anchors.

Vulcan Anchor

Similar to the Rocna anchor, the Vulcan anchor is almost a carbon copy of the Rocna anchor minus the fact that it doesn’t have a roll-bar.

The main reason for the creation of the Vulcan anchor was to accommodate sailors who found it difficult to stow the Rocna anchor. This is a fantastic choice for any sailor.

• None that could be found.

Manork Anchor

One of the most recent sailboat anchor types designed over the years is the Manork anchors, which were designed in Slovenia by Marko Janjanin in 2017.

It has proven to be an extremely well-designed, well-functioning anchor that can accommodate sailors in many weather and seabed conditions. It’s been heavily tested in strong storms and loose seabeds only to pass with flying colors.

• Has a unique fluke design made for strong holding power.
• Roll bar moves weight away from the tip causing potentially less digging.

Other Anchor Types

More likely than not, you’ll want to opt for one of the more modern types of anchors for sailboats if you have the opportunity.

However, there are several other anchor types that are effective in different environments that may not be the most common, but are useful when needed.

Mushroom Anchor

The Mushroom anchor was invented by Robert Stevenson and is most commonly used in seabeds that are composed of silt or fine sand.

While it’s not likely that you’ll ever be in such an environment, a Mushroom anchor will ensure that you’re safe to anchor in case you ever are. Since it’s shaped like a mushroom and inverted, the head of the anchor effectively buries itself directly into the sand.

They rely heavily on a suction effect between the seabed and the anchor, therefore the seabed must be relatively fine.

Hydrobubble Anchor

Not unlike the CQR/Plough anchor, a Hydrobubble anchor has a similar design but with a slight twist. It has attached to it a buoyancy tank that allows the anchor to safely float down to the seabed without fluttering around and causing an issue when it lands.

This almost entirely ensures that the anchor is in a good position and securely attached to the seabed. All in all, it’s just like a CQR/Plouch anchor but just better at landing in a good position.

Sand Anchor

There aren’t many anchors out there like a proper Sand anchor, mainly since this type of anchor is attached directly to the shore of a beach.

These types of anchors are designed to give your sailboat a firm attachment to sand on land when necessary. Generally, a spike is either driven or screwed into sand for a temporary amount of time.

It’s important to note, however, that these types of anchors are strictly temporary and should be monitored constantly.

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If you don’t know how to safely anchor your vessel for the conditions expected, you should not leave the dock. Anchoring is the bedrock skill of the cruising sailor.

Anchoring is, at its core, extremely simple. However, perfecting your technique and adapting your gear to the conditions experienced can take a lifetime. I’m on my 54th year of living aboard; the vast majority of that time has been spent sitting on my own hook.

During the course of 2+ circumnavigations and over 100,000 ocean miles sailed, I’ve experienced a wide variety of anchoring situations. I’ve never damaged my vessel—or another vessel—by dragging.

Here’s a brief primer on Anchoring a Boat , to get you started.

First off, let’s consider the anchor —especially the anchor which has pride-of-place on your bow roller.

You can’t effectively and safely anchor with a poorly made, poorly designed ‘no name’ anchor. I’m a frugal guy who watches his pennies—but your ground tackle is no place to economize. Quality costs .

Different anchors do different things well

Some are lightweight. Some are meant to stow in a hawse hole. Others are designed for rock.

Basic Storms Tactics for Cruising Sailboats

Which anchor is best for general use?

Well, that’s the subject of vast controversy and much emotion. But I want to honestly and effectively help my readers to enjoy their boats, and the best way I can do that is just to be honest with my own opinion and experience.

For instance, I believe that, ounce for ounce, the Danforth style anchors are the best in terms of holding . I always carry one. And I’ve been continually amazed at how well they hold in sand or mud if deployed properly with sufficient scope.

But I do NOT  carry one on my bow. They don’t always reset when the wind changes . They often become entangled when the current opposes the wind and your vessel circles while tide-bound. Occasionally, a rock or piece of coral jams the flukes up, and they skate across the bottom like it was ice.

Bottom line: almost no cruising boat has a Danforth in its bow roller.

The majority of offshore cruising vessels and circumnavigating sailboats used to have CQR anchors. It was a big advancement. Authorities like Eric Hiscock used and advocated them in the 1950s. They still hold well when properly set in sand. But I believe that new designs are better for a number of reasons.

The Bruce is extremely popular . There are no moving parts. It is strong. However, it doesn’t penetrate grass well . It takes a while to dig in. Soupy conditions aren’t its forte.

The Delta is a very good anchor —with all the advantages of the Bruce and the CQR. It penetrates grass much better. This is the preferred choice in the Med . Super strong!

But I carry a Rocna (Editor’s Note: He is referring to the Rocna  25KG which is  55 lbs) with 240 feet of 10mm chain on the bow of my 43-foot, 30,000 pound ketch Ganesh .

• It holds extremely well.
• It works in a wide variety of bottom types.
• It stows in most bow rollers well.
• It sets the fastest of any anchor I have ever had—so quickly it can surprise you (and your gear can be dangerously shock-loaded if your snubber is not in place).

No anchor should be short-scoped. However, if you have to ride to a short scope, a Rocna is a good choice.

The better the anchor holds—the more it needs to be firmly attached to the vessel.

Most cruising boats use a chain rode . This offers several advantages; chafe is not an issue. The weight, especially in deep water, acts to effectively increase your apparent scope in moderate weather. (Note: this is NOT true in strong conditions.)

Perhaps most importantly, chain can be easily and conveniently handled by most modern deck windlasses —allowing a cruising sailboat to deploy its best gear in a very easy, safe, effective manner. This means you have more protection, more often.

Nylon rope can be used , as well. It is light in weight and offers superior stretch . Alas, it can chafe through on coral or any underwater obstruction at any time—thus, making chain far preferable. (To save weight on a small vessel, I once sailed around the world without chain—Lord, what a hassle!)

Two more notes, seldom considered:

• Galvanized steel is the preferred choice for an anchor and its chain . Steel is extremely predictable, and never fails without warning. If your chain is not rusty, it will hold as advertised—not so, stainless steel.
• Do NOT use ss shackles between a galvy chain and a galvy anchor . Beware of ss anchor swivels, too. Never use an ‘off brand’ or no brand one—and even the best can fail catastrophically without warning.

I do NOT use a ss swivel.

So… The best, most common way to anchor a cruising sailboat in a wide variety of conditions is to use a CQR, Bruce, Delta, or Rocna anchor on galvy chain.

To lessen the shock of the non-stretching chain, I use a 20-foot nylon snubber with a chain claw—which totally insulates the anchor from shock loading and the boat from any bottom noise.

Which leads us to the subject of scope.

What is anchor scope ? Why? How much do you need?

Okay, scope is the amount of rode (chain or nylon or combo) you deploy between boat and anchor. How to determine how much scope?

• Take the depth of the water
• add the height of the bow roller above water—and
• times it by five to get the correct scope in light to moderate winds.

Let’s say that you anchor in 15 feet of water, and your bow roller height is five feet. You need 100 feet of rode to anchor. No less .

Nearly all anchor dragging is because of too little scope . 5 to 1 is minimum. 7 or 8 to 1 is recommended in a blow. I deploy 10 to 1 during hurricanes (dozens of which I’ve ridden out successfully, two of which I haven’t).

Why not always put out all your chain? You could. I often do in deserted anchorages. But when other boats are present, it is best to share the resource and limit your scope—or you will limit your friends within the anchorage.

Consider the bottom type in order to safely anchor

• sand and mud are good.
• Clay is great.
• Rocks are erratic, and some anchors (Danforth types, for example) are not suited for rocks; this is where Yachtsman and various other small fluke ‘pick’ anchors shine.

It used to be, when I grew up aboard the schooner Elizabeth in the 1950s, that every boat had an armed sounding lead.

Most people are confused by the ‘armed’ part. Simple, each lead weight used for sounding was hollow at the bottom. You’d ‘arm’ it by squishing in a little beeswax—and tossing it overboard to the bottom. The wax would bring up the bottom-sample embedded in it, hopefully sand or mud.

Anchoring in the Caribbean – How Do I Know Where to Anchor?

Today I use an inexpensive fish finder.

It indicates the hardness of the bottom (after you get used to reading its graphic display) and shows if there are any coral heads or other obstructions on the bottom.

• One should, of course, avoid anchoring on a lee shore —where the wind is pushing you onto the beach and the seas can build without hampering.
• It is best to anchor in an enclosed harbour with the wind blowing off the beach. It will be flat calm in terms of seas (waves). If the harbour is truly snug and landlocked, it won’t matter if the wind veers or clocks.
• Another factor is reaction time. Let’s say you go into a landlocked harbour to sit out an easterly blow. You should anchor on the eastern side of the harbour, so you have minimal waves and maximum reaction should you begin to drag.
• Thus, you should never anchor too close directly behind someone—it is poor seamanship and bad manners.
• The time honored rule in relationship to other vessels is dead simple; the first vessel to anchor has rights. If you anchor anywhere around it, it is up to YOU to not hit IT.

Ideally, all vessels anchored in a harbour should have 5 to 1 scope. This is seldom the case. Usually, our precious natural resources are shared; some boats are at a dock, others on moorings, some stern to, and the rest swing to their hooks.

You can not come in and anchor unless you can do so safely—without damaging the other vessels REGARDLESS of what happens in terms of wind, tide, and current.

You also need to pay attention to how the other boats are maintaining their positions . Boats on mooring generally swing in a lot tighter circle than boats on anchors.

• Bahamas, two anchors deployed off the boat are almost mandatory .
• Hiva Oa in the Pacific, two anchors are required —one off the stern and one off the bow.
• Turkey, a stern line is taken ashore in most places after the bow anchor is deployed.

The point is: when in Rome, do as the Romans do . If everyone has an anchor ball deployed (as they do in the Med), deploy yours. Forget it in the Great Lakes; they wouldn’t even know what a black ball is. (It means ‘anchor down’ and is mandatory under international law most places.)

If you don’t have a black ball up, someone can hit you and claim you were maneuvering—or that they didn’t know you were anchored, etc.

Here’s how to deploy for precise anchor placement

Let’s say you want to anchor in twenty feet of water in a crowded harbor.

• Slowly cruise around until you find your preferred spot. Place your vessel exactly where you want it to be, the place at which you want it to end up anchored.
• Check to see if there’s a current, AND if other nearby vessels are also anchored with chain rodes. If the answers are no and yes, proceed directly upwind while letting out 15 feet of chain.
• When you are 120 feet upwind, stop, and put your engine in reverse. The moment you start to gather stern way (within 10 feet) drop your anchor on the bottom. Slowly pay out rode, occasionally ‘almost’ snubbing off.
• Now deploy your nylon snubber around 90 feet or so. If you backed up 10 feet before dropping and it took ten feet for your anchor to set–and you desire 5 to 1 scope, you should be exactly where you were (and want to be) when 100 feet of rode is out.
• Slowly increase throttle astern until your anchor chain is taut, then run up to half RPM. Carefully check your shore bears to confirm you are holding. Maintain this position for one full minute, then throttle down. You are done.

Your vessel will move forward a bit, from the weight of the chain. You should stay there if the wind remains constant, and change safely in relationship to the other vessels if it does not. If the holding ground is good and your gear ample, you should be fine up to 50 knots in smooth water.

My policy on vessel proximity is simple

I attempt to anchor as prudently as far away from another vessel as possible. If for any reason the other fellow thinks I’m too close—I am! I either don’t anchor or move immediately.

If I inform a vessel’s skipper that he’s anchoring too close and, in the middle of the night, there’s contact—I expect him to pay all my damages and certainly will not be liable for his.

I don’t like involving the law, but once a guy did a lot of damage to my vessel after being told repeatedly that he was too close and repeatedly politely asked to leave—and when the judge heard this, the trial was effectively over.

How to anchor a boat in a hurricane

Anchoring in a hurricane incorporates all of the above—with an emphasis on chafe .

I pre-rig three snubbers to my chain—and swath my nylon with canvas or hose. Sometimes I put a short piece of Dacron®  where my gear comes aboard—Dacron® doesn’t melt as easily as nylon from the intense friction.

I also slather it with grease if the line is showing signs of rapid wear—and have plywood and crowbars standing by to deal with chains or rodes sawing through their hawse holes and cutting a straight line down through the hull and deck! ( Faster Horses had exactly this happen to them in 1989 during Hurricane Hugo.)

The bottom line on staying connected to the bottom—it is usually possible in moderate conditions with the proper gear properly deployed.

If you know how to anchor your vessel , you have my respect. If you do not—whether you are on an 8’ Opti or a 124’ Oyster—you do not.

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10 COMMENTS

It’s interesting what he says about the Danforth style anchors.  I’ve gotten several calls from people that absolutely swear by them!

You carry  a Rocna 55 on a 43-foot, 30,000 pound ketch? That’s a 121 pound anchor! I consulted with the manufacturer of the Manson Supreme for my 43 foot, 22,500 pound sloop and was told the 35 pound anchor would “hold in almost all conditions”.  Given the similarity in anchor design and boat size, it sounds like you have a *lot* of anchor – or maybe I got some bad advice from Manson.  I understand bigger is better and no anchor ever dragged because it was too heavy but that seems like this much anchor would provide marginal benefit and be a real tough thing to pull back up unless you have a pretty strong power windlass.

Why so much anchor?  I’m interested in what led you to select that much.

GaryWood1  Cap’n Fatty asked me to respond for him…  “Please forward to the gentleman that I carry at 55 pound Rocna, which also weights 25 kilos. I like big anchors but my windlass nor boat could not hand that much weight, especially so far forward.  Cap’n Fatty     S/V Wild Card… er, Ganesh! Pacific Ocean Earth Milky Way”

GaryWood1 To translate, I think he is referring to the Rocna 25 which is 55 pounds.

I’ll update that in the article.

Capt Fatty, please could you expand on the part about why this is not true in strong conditions?

[quote]Most cruising boats use a chain rode. This offers several advantages; chafe is not an issue. The weight, especially in deep water, acts to effectively increase your apparent scope in moderate weather. (Note: this is NOT true in strong conditions.)[/quote]

Hi John, I have passed on this Comment to Fatty. Please be patient as he is floating somewhere in the South Pacific. Stay tuned for a response.

Hi John – Fatty passed on an answer to your query:

“The practical, day to day truth is… and the accepted wisdom is… that chain holds better than rope because it is heavy. This is true in light and moderate conditions BUT NOT IN HEAVY AIRS. Once you start yanking hard on your anchor rode, line is just as effective as chain (ignoring chafe.)

Here is why: picture a boat anchored with thread. The thread makes a straight line between roller chock and anchor. This forms an angle with the flattish bottom. The greater the angle, the more vertical and the poorer the anchor will hold; the smaller the angle, the less vertical and better your anchor will hold.

It is this angle which offers the advantage.

Now picture an anchor chain. It swoops down at an extremely low angle to the anchor, hence its superior holding.

However, once the wind increases and straightens out the chain, the thread or rope and chain have the SAME angle and, thus, the SAME holding power.

In fact, some might argue that the superior shock-absorbing characteristic of the long Nylon rode makes it the PREFERABLE choice in extreme weather!

Chains offer angle, not weight as the advantage. Weight means very little; almost nothing, in terms of holding power. (Admittedly, weight plays a vital role in the digging-in of an anchor). Sailors joke, “Well, if you have enough chain, you do not need an anchor,” but that is just a joke. It is not true… which is why a 5 pound Fortress holds better than 1,000 pounds of chain.

I hope this explanation is clear and concise. “

Makes perfect sense. Thank you.

Hi John, I agree too Fatty’s answer above is clear and spot on, just thought I’d link this article from Peter Smith (maker of Rocna anchors) to illustrate further as it’s precisely on-topic: http://www.petersmith.net.nz/boat-anchors/catenary.php

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A good anchor for a sailboat will help keep a vessel stationary and stable in the water in any weather conditions or marine environment.

There are a number of top anchors for sailing boats that can work on sailboats of both small and large sizes of under 20ft to over 100ft.

The best sailboat anchors are:

• Best Overall : Mantus Marine M1 Mantus Anchor
• Best For Holding Boat : Lewmar Claw Anchor
• Best For Price : Seachoice Utility Anchor
• Best For Small Sailboats : Fortress FX-11 Anchor
• Best For Large Sailboats : Rocna Galvanized Anchor

These anchors will ensure the sailboat is anchoring properly in any sailing conditions.

Sailboat owners should choose an anchor based on the size and type of their sailboat as well as the type of marine environment their vessel will be located in.

For example, anchoring a sailboat on a sandy surface is different than anchoring a sailboat on a rocky surface and it will require different anchors.

1. M1 Mantus Galvanized Anchor

The best overall sailboat anchor is the M1 Mantus anchor manufactured by the brand Mantus Marine in Texas, America and sold worldwide.

This fluke anchor is the best overall anchor because it can dig deep into the seafloor and ensure the sailing vessel will not float away.

The M1 Mantus anchor is constructed of hot-dipped galvanized steel with the shank and shank boot welded from top to bottom.

It is a plow anchor shaped with a sharp triangle-shaped nose, a straight shank and a "U" shaped roll bar bolted to a fluke.

This anchor comes in many different sizes from 8lbs to 175lbs. It comes with 4 American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) certified bolts.

The M1 Mantus anchor is used on seafloor surfaces including sandy, gravel, grassy and muddy sea floors. It is not used on rocky sea floors.

The M1 Mantus can be used in different types of locations including rivers, sea and lakes.

Sailboat sizes of 20ft to 65ft can use the M1 Mantus anchor.

The M1 Mantus anchor is priced between $180 for the smallest 8lb anchor to approximately $3,000 for the largest 175lb anchor at most retailers.

The M1 Mantus anchor works to hold a vessel in position in winds of up to 40 knots, highlighting its great holding power abilities.

The benefits of the M1 Mantus anchor are:

• It comes with a great lifetime warranty : The Mantus Marine manufacturer offers a lifetime warranty on this anchor for added peace of mind
• It can be disassembled easily for storage : Simple disassembling bolts make it easy for storing this anchor when it is not in use
• Multiple size options : With anchor size options from 8lbs to 175lbs, sailboat owners of different vessel sizes, from small sailboats of 20ft to large sailboats of 65ft can use this anchor
• It works in multiple marine conditions : This anchor works in multiple marine conditions from calm ocean currents to extremely windy and storm conditions with up to 40 knots of wind speed
• High-performance sharp head nose enables easy penetration of the sea floor : The sharp edge nose of this anchor means it penetrates the ocean floor fast and with ease
• It is hot dipped galvanized for corrosion prevention : This anchor is hot dipped galvanized giving it extra protection against corrosion and wear from corrosive seawater
• It comes with 4 high-quality oversized A.S.T.M. certified bolts : This anchor comes with 4 oversized bolts with a large margin of safety that will help prevent damage

One disadvantage of the M1 Mantus anchor is it is more expensive than other anchors on the market.

M1 Mantas Anchor On Amazon →

M1 Mantas Anchor On eBay →

2. Lewmar Claw Anchor

The best sailboat anchor for its holding power is the Lewmar Claw anchor manufactured by the brand Lewmar in Hampshire, United Kingdom and sold worldwide.

The Lewmar Claw anchor is constructed of high-grade galvanized steel cast in a single piece. This anchor was inspired and designed based on anchors used to secure oil rigs in the North Sea.

The Lewmar Claw anchor comes in sizes from 2.2lbs to 176lbs. It is used on seabed surfaces including sandy, muddy, gravel and grassy ocean floors. It is not used on rocky surfaces.

The Lewmar Claw anchor can be used in different types of marine locations including ocean, lake and river floors.

Sailboat sizes of 12ft to 65ft can use the Lewmar Claw anchor.

The Lewmar Claw anchor is priced between approximately $30 for the smallest 2.2lb anchor to approximately $1,300 for the largest 176lb anchor at most retailers.

The Lewmar Claw anchor can hold a sailing vessel in position in winds up to 50 knots without the boat floating away.

The benefits of the Lewmar Claw anchor are:

• It's fast setting : Depending on the sea depth, this anchor can set and begin anchoring a vessel in under 5 minutes
• It has great holding power : This anchor can help with anchoring boats in position in extremely harsh weather conditions with winds up to 50 knots
• Easy bow roller storable : This anchor can fit and store nicely in most bow roller shapes and styles without any issues
• It's a budget-friendly anchor : The Lewmar Claw anchor is one of the cheapest on the market and it should be within most sailboat owner's budget with the most expensive anchor sold at a price of approximately $1,300
• It's built with strong & high-quality material : The Lewmar Claw is built with high-quality and heat-treated steel with a galvanized finish

One disadvantage of the Lewmar Claw anchor is it does not come with a lifetime warranty.

Lewmar Claw Anchor On Amazon →

Lewmar Claw Anchor On Walmart →

3. Seachoice Utility Anchor

The best sailboat anchor for the price is the Seachoice Utility anchor manufactured by the brand Seachoice in Florida, America and sold worldwide.

This fluke anchor is the best for the price because it offers the most options for the cheapest price on the market.

The Seachoice Utility anchor is constructed of hot-dipped galvanized steel or PVC-coated steel. It comes in 5 different color options including red, black, white, light blue and grey.

This anchor comes in different sizes from 4.5lbs to 8.5lbs.

The Seachoice Utility anchor is priced at approximately $25 for the smallest 4.5lb anchor to approximately $70 for the larger 8.5lb anchor at most retailers.

The Seachoice Utility anchor is used on different seabed surfaces including gravel, sand, grassy and muddy sea floors. It is not used on rocky seafloors.

The Seachoice anchor can be used in different types of marine locations including the sea, rivers and lakes.

Sailboat sizes of 10ft to 30ft can use the Seachoice Utility anchor.

The Seachoice Utility anchor can hold a sailboat in position and keep it anchored in wind speeds up to 30 knots without the boat floating away.

The benefits of the Seachoice Utility anchor are:

• It comes with a 1-year warranty : The Seachoice Utility anchor comes with a 1-year manufacturers warranty for added peace of mind
• It comes in multiple color options : Sailboat owners can choose from 5 different anchor colors
• It's easy to retrieve from the seawater : This anchor comes with a great slip-ring design that makes it easy to retrieve it from the water after use
• Sharp anchor fluke design makes penetration easy : The sharp fluke design helps the anchor to easily penetrate the seafloor surface
• It is cheap : The Seachoice Utility anchor is the cheapest anchor on the market with the largest anchor priced at approximately $70

Two disadvantages of the Seachoice Utility anchor are the anchor can only be used on smaller sailboats up to 30ft in length and it can not be used on larger sailboats over 30ft and the anchor can not be used on rocky sea floors.

Seachoice Utility Anchor On Amazon →

Seachoice Utility Anchor On Walmart →

4. Fortress FX-11 Anchor

The best sailboat anchor for small sailboats is the Fortress FX-11 anchor manufactured by the brand Fortress Marine Anchors in Florida, America and sold worldwide.

This fluke anchor is the best for small boats because its lightweight aluminum material is capable of holding a sailboat up to 32ft without the anchor being extra heavy.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor is constructed of aluminum alloy material and it comes in a size of 7lbs.

It comes with a pivot adjustment which allows an adjustment of the anchor angle between 32° to 45°.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor is used on seafloor surfaces including sand, gravel, mud and grassy surfaces. It is not used on rocky seafloor surfaces.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor can be used in different marine locations including lakes, rivers and the sea.

Sailboat sizes of between 28ft to 32ft can use the FX-11 anchor.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor is priced at approximately $200 at most retailers.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor works to hold a sailing vessel in position in winds up to 30 knots without the vessel floating away.

The benefits of the Fortress FX-11 anchor are:

• It's rustproof : The light but strong aluminum material is rustproof meaning the anchor will not suffer from rusting caused by the corrosive seawater
• It comes with a lifetime parts warranty : The Fortress FX-11 anchor comes with a lifetime parts replacement warranty against damage that might occur to any parts of the anchor
• It is easy to store after use : It can be easily disassembled which means it is easy to store onboard the sailboat after using it#
• Penetrates the seafloor and sets deeper : The sharp edge d anchor allows it to easily penetrate seafloors and anchor a boat

One disadvantage of the Fortress FX-11 anchor is it can only be used on smaller sailboats between 28ft to 32ft and it cannot be used on larger sailing vessels over 32ft.

Fortress FX-11 On Amazon →

Fortress FX-11 On Walmart →

5. Rocna Galvanized Anchor

The best anchor for larger sailboats is the Rocna galvanized steel anchor manufactured by the brand Rocna in British Columbia, Canada and sold worldwide.

The Rocna anchor is constructed of galvanized steel with solid welding from top to bottom.

The Rocna galvanized steel anchor was designed by New Zealand sailor Peter Smith.

The Rocna anchor design comes with a roll-bar to ensure the anchor can penetrate the surface at the best angle and one-third of the anchor's weight is on the fluke tip which also helps with the penetration of the seafloor surface.

The Rocna anchor comes in 14 different sizes from 9lbs to 606lbs.

This fluke anchor is the best for larger sailboats because it offers anchors up to 606lbs which will help with anchoring most larger sailing vessels.

The Rocna anchor can be used on all sea surfaces from gravel, mud, sand, clay, kelp and rocks. It can also be used in marine locations including lakes, rivers and the sea.

Sailboat sizes of 12ft to over 300ft can use the Rocna galvanized steel anchor.

The Rocna galvanized steel anchor is priced between approximately $220 for the smallest 9lbs anchor to approximately $12,000 for the largest 606lb anchor.

The Rocna galvanized steel anchor can hold a sailing vessel in position in winds up to 40 knots without the boat floating away.

The benefits of the Rocna galvanized anchor are:

• It comes with a great lifetime warranty : The Rocna galvanized anchor comes with a lifetime warranty against breakage, manufacturing defects and bending for added peace of mind
• It can be used on all sea surfaces : The Rocna galvanized steel anchor can be used on all sea surfaces including gravel, sand, mud and rocky sea floors and it is not limited or restricted to just a few types of surfaces
• It sets fast : The sharp edge fluke helps penetrate the sea surface and the anchor sets fast as a result of this design

One disadvantage of the Rocna anchor is it is not the cheapest anchor with the cheapest price at approximately $220.

Rocna Anchor On Amazon →

Top Sailboat Anchors Comparison Table

What to consider when buying a sailboat anchor.

The factors to consider before buying a sailboat anchor are:

• Type of material used : The type of material used to create the anchor is an important consideration when buying a sailboat anchor. Most modern anchors are constructed using aluminum steel or galvanized steel
• Durability : How long the anchor can last is a factor to consider when buying a sailboat anchor. Modern anchors come with lifetime warranties and they should last for well over 10 years
• Size Of The Boat : Identifying the proper anchor size for a boat is not a perfect science but the size of your boat is an extremely important factor to consider when choosing a top sailboat anchor. Typically, the larger the boat size, the bigger the anchor that is required
• Price : Price will also play a big role in the sailboat anchor you buy. Anchors come in many different prices for many different budgets

Frequently Asked Questions About The Best Sailboat Anchors

Below are the most common and frequently asked questions about the top sailing vessel anchors.

What Are The Best Sailboat Anchor Brands?

The best sailboat anchor brands are:

• Five Oceans Danforth Style
• Mantus Marine

Are Top Sailing Boat Anchors Expensive?

No, top sailboat anchors are not expensive with some of the best sailboat anchors priced as little as $25 in some instances.

What Are The Different Types Of Sailboat Anchors Available For Sailboat Owners?

The types of sailboat anchors available are:

• Fluke anchors
• Plow anchors
• Claw anchors
• Mushroom anchors
• Grapnel anchors

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• Sailboat Anchor

Which Sailboat Anchor Is Right For Your Boat?

It's often said that your sailboat anchor is the best insurance you'll ever buy. And so it is - providing it's the right one!

The 'right one' meaning not just the right design for the type of seabed you're anchoring on, but the appropriate size for your sailboat - and of course, even the best of anchors will fail to please if it's on too short a scope or dumped on the seabed with a load of chain piled on top of it.

There's plenty of data around recommending the appropriate anchor size for a sailboat of a specific length, but before we get on to talking about the various anchor designs, we'll repeat it here...

Matching Sailboat Anchor Size to Boat Length

The following table sets out the minimum size of sailboat anchor for a vessel of a particular length. It is, at best, just a guide. If you regularly have to rely on your anchor in less than ideal conditions you'd be wise to choose one for the next boat size up.

And this presupposes that you've deployed sufficient scope of anchor rode, and your anchoring technique is up to scratch.

What Should You Expect From a Good Sailboat Anchor?

There's been something of a revolution in sailboat anchor technology in recent years. The old guard - CQR, Bruce, Danforth and Fisherman - have been challenged by a new generation of young upstarts, the main contenders being Spade, Rocna and Bugel (aka Wasi in the USA).

The essential attributes we demand from our anchor are:

• It must dig in fast every time - If it doesn't it will have a chance to collect weed before it starts to penetrate the seabed;
• It must bury deep - The deeper it buries, the greater the mass of seabed above and ahead of the anchor - the cone of resistance - and therefore the greater the holding power;
• It must provide high holding power - Holding power is achieved as a result of surface area, blade profile and the depth to which the anchor has buried. But given sufficient load, all anchors will eventually drag. Those anchors that remain buried while dragging, rather than capsizing and pulling out, are clearly to be preferred. The static holding power, that is the resistance provided before the anchor starts to drag in sand appears to be no more than 20 times the anchor weight, and sometimes as little as 10 times for a less efficient anchor. This varies with the nature of the seabed. So if you use a 15kg anchor, its static hold is unlikely to be greater than 300kgf. For a 10m yacht this is the force which likely to be experienced in a 40 knot wind, and for a 12m yacht in a 33 knot wind;
• It must hold in wind or current shifts - A real test of an anchor occurs when the wind shifts or the tide turns. In these conditions some types have a tendency to roll and pull out rather than drag around to face the new direction, and others that have failed to bury themselves completely and leave bits sticking above the seabed are likely to be tripped.

Sailboat Anchor Designs

Not all sailboat anchors are created equal - some are at their best in sand and mud, whilst others will drag in these seabeds but hold firm in kelp and rocks. Here're the most popular patterns, starting with those that have been around for a while:~

The Old Guard...

The fisherman anchor.

A good one to start with this, as it's been around since Admiral Nelson was in short trousers. Also known as the Admiralty Pattern Anchor and sometimes the Yachtsmans Anchor, it's probably the best of all for holding in rock or thick kelp.

Once set, the stock will be lying horizontally on the seabed, one fluke will have dug into it and the other will be sticking up above it, perfectly positioned to hook up with the chain when the tide turns.

The stock can be released so that it can lie alongside the shank, making it an easy anchor to disassemble and stow below. But once assembled it's anything but convenient - as you'll know if you've ever tried to get one out of the water and onto the foredeck.

Clearly this is never going to be a favourite bower anchor with cruising sailors.

The CQR Anchor

So named because it sounds like 'secure', the UK designed CQR (or Plough) Anchor has proved to be a popular bower anchor with cruising sailors since it first appeared in 1933.

Like the Bruce Anchor below, it stows well in the stemhead fitting, but is difficult to stow anywhere else - and they'll pinch your fingers if not handled with care.

The CQR can deal with changes in tide direction and currents through its patented swivel system, which allows it to accommodate wide swing angles before it has to reset itself.

The Danforth Anchor

Also known as a Fluke Anchor, the US designed  has been with us since the 1940's when it was developed for World War 2 landing craft.

When deploying this anchor it's essential that it has no way on when it hits the seabed, or it will skate merrily over it without penetrating at all.

Once properly set there's no sailboat anchor that holds better than a Danforth Type Anchor in sand and mud, but on most other types of seabed it doesn't perform well at all.

And when asked to realign itself when the wind or tide changes direction it's unlikely to do so, much preferring to twist over and break out.

Neither will it stow well in the stemhead fitting, but it does fold flat and stows well below decks or in an anchor locker. It also stows nicely on the pushpit, where it can be put into ready use as a kedge anchor.

The Fortress Anchor is one of several light-weight aluminium anchors similar in appearance to the Danforth, but with larger flukes. And in common with the CQR Anchor they will pinch your fingers at the slightest provocation.

The Bruce Anchor

Also known as Claw Anchors, these one-piece British designed anchors have been around since the 1970's, when huge versions of them they were developed for use in the developing North Sea Oil Industry.

Bruce Type Anchors have a reputation as a good all-round sailboat anchor, but they do have difficulty penetrating weed and grassy seabeds.

On the plus side, once properly set they will realign themselves with wind and tide changes, rather than rolling over and breaking out.

They're awkward to stow anywhere other than in the stemhead fitting.

The Delta Anchor

Another plough anchor like the CQR Anchor but without the finger-pinching tendencies of the pivoting arrangement, and of one-piece construction like the Bruce, the Delta Anchor is something of a hybrid.

It's been around since the 1980s, but more recently lightweight aluminium versions have appeared which mean that you can go up a size without having to cope with additional weight.

And the Best Sailboat Anchor Is...?

To a greater or lesser extent, all of these anchors meet the four principal performance criteria, but some perform better in certain types of seabed than others. For example, the Danforth is as good as any in sand, although there is a risk of it rolling and pulling out as the tide turns; and nothing beats a Fisherman in rock or kelp.

But there has been some advanced thinking in the design of the new generation anchors, as a result of which they all provide excellent holding power, and are generally more reliable in their deployment

• If they land upside down, they immediately turn right way up ready for immediate penetration as the load comes on the chain. The Spade Anchor achieves this through weight distribution and an angled ballast chamber and both the Rocna and the Bugel by a roll-bar;
• They dig in very quickly - the Spade Anchor in particular is said to do so within its own length;
• They completely bury themselves in most seabed conditions and re-align quickly with changes in wind and tide without pulling free;

For anyone contemplating the purchase of a new anchor, they should have a serious look at one of these new generation anchors.

And here they are:~

The New Breed of Anchors

The bugel anchor.

Known as the Wasi Anchor in the US, this German design from the early 1990s is the forerunner of the new breed of sailboat anchors, and the first to sport the rollover bar.

The Bugel anchor a simple design which keeps manufacturing costs down, but still provides excellent performance in most seabed conditions.

Like the following designs it will bury itself and turn to accommodate changes in tide and current without breaking out.

The Spade Anchor

A French design from 1996, the Spade Anchor was initially developed for punching through the seagrass often found in Mediterranean anchorages.

Its two-part design can be readily disassembled with a spanner (wrench) for convenient stowage in a locker, but it will stow neatly in the stemhead fully assembled and ready for deployment.

It's balanced such that it always arrives on the seabed point down, which enables it to set very quickly. The ultimate holding power of the Spade Anchor is renowned.

The Rocna Anchor

Have we left the best till last?

In my view yes; the Rocna Anchor is a winner and a 44lb version graces Alacazam's bow roller.

Designed in New Zealand, it's been around since 2004 and has become a favourite of cruising sailors worldwide.

It combines the basic design of the Bugel with the sophistication of the Spade Anchor and in all the sailboat anchor test reports I've read comes out on top.

Like the Bugel Anchor, it's designed to live in the bow roller; it's awkward to stow it anywhere else.

The Rocna Anchor is immensely strong, has superb holding power and is one of the very best sailboat anchors currently available. Here's just one example of why I believe this to be true...

The only issue with the Rocna is that it the rollover bar makes it difficult to stow in some bow fitting configurations. The new Rocna Vulcan is a spade anchor said to have similar holding power to the original Rocna whilst offering the greatest possible compatibility across a wider range of vessel bow configurations.

Artwork by Andrew Simpson

More about Anchors and Anchoring...

What anchor chain length is needed to keep your boat secure.

Too little anchor chain length and your boat is likely to go walkabout; too much and you're likely to swing into other boats. Here's how to get it right...

Methods of Joining Anchor Chain

Here’s how to go about joining anchor chain, either to another length of chain or by a rope/chain splice to a warp, and by a swivel connector to the anchor.

Is BBB Anchor Chain As Good As The Other Types Of Anchor Chain?

Proof Coil, High Test and BBB anchor chain all have their own attributes and shortcomings, so there's no one answer. But here's how to choose what's best for your boat...

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If you have an all-chain rode then yes, you definitely need an anchor snubber line. But what's best, a single snubber line or a bridle? Well, it depends...

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22 Sep What is the Best Anchor for Cruising Sailboats? 

What is the best anchor for cruising sailboats our experience based perspective..

In our last video, we found ourselves in an open anchorage with a lee shore in a 45-knot storm that lasted for several hours overnight. We were confident in our anchor, which allowed us to tuck away into the side of the channel.

Note: This article is not meant to be a highly technical article about anchors, it is solely meant to share our experience with the anchors we have carried on board.

Overnight Anchoring Is a New Experience

Before we left shore to go cruising, we were racing sailors, meaning an anchor was always an afterthought. We wanted the lightest anchor that was allowed by the rules and nothing more. Most racing boats carried small aluminum fortress anchors with absolute minimum chain and rode.

When we went cruising, like many others, we had not spent much time on the hook but were planning to spend months or years at anchor while cruising. We had to accelerate our learning curve, learn how to anchor properly, and over time find out which anchors and techniques worked best for us.

Experience Gained in 3 Years of Sailboat Cruising

Over the past 3 years, we have anchored in almost all bottom types except for kelp (we will learn this in Patagonia). We have anchored in heavy current areas, surf, rolly anchorages, and held our ground in wind gusts up to 65 knots. We have also dragged our anchor a few times and experienced others dragging into us.

We hope to shed some light and a real-world perspective on the topic which can generate a lot of passionate debate in the forums or over sundowners.

Experience with the Lightweight Fortress Anchor

First, a little bit about our experience before we started cruising. This is our base point. Before cruising we had anchored a sailboat a total of 3 times. Twice on a J/105 that we cruised in the North Channel of Lake Huron, and once in Lake St. Clair on a Melges 24 waiting out a postponement between races.

These experiences are important, as with both boats we tested the limits of light aluminum Danforth anchors with little or no chain. The Fortress anchor, according to many tests performed by the sailing magazines, bar-none packs the most punch for its weight.

It delivers the holding power with a large and sharp surface area which allows it to dig deeply into sand, clay, and mud. On the Melges, we rafted multiple boats off of one anchor, a good test, but it was in light air with a little current.

During our cruise in the North Channel, we sat through a large line of thunderstorms on a Fortress Anchor in racing configuration. This was our first “real deal” anchoring experience, and although a little scary at the time, gave us a lot of confidence in this anchor.

Its down faults though are that it does not like large direction changes, and there is a propensity to drag it or bend it in a large and quick shift greater than 90 degrees. The other issue (which depends on how you look at it) is it can be very hard to recover after a big blow in a thick mud or clay bottom.

It also has a lot of pointy edges and places for ropes to get caught and sails to snag if stored above deck. It does collapse though, for easy storage down below, and can be reassembled quickly with basic hand tools.

Carrying a Fortress Anchor for Cruising

We carry a 21lb FX-37 Fortress Anchor as our go-to secondary and emergency anchor on board Sweet Ruca. It is attached to 50ft of 10mm galvanized chain and 150 feet of ⅝” 3-strand nylon rode. We keep this setup assembled in our forepeak, ready to go, just in case for some reason we need to quickly abandon our primary anchor.

Weighing in at just under 10 kilograms (21 lbs), it is sized large enough for our 12-ton sailboat, but can still be easily carried in a dinghy. This is important for stern anchoring or kedging.

Fortress Use as a Kedge or Stern Anchor

Luckily, we have never needed a kedge anchor to winch our way off of a grounding, but we have used it as a stern anchor. It works wonderfully for this purpose, however, for a dedicated stern anchor, we would size down just a little.

A stern anchor does carry a lot of load, as the wind load sideways on the boat can be quite large. In most cases though, when using a stern anchor, we are in fairly protected waters, just trying to angle the boat a bit better to avoid rolling in swell. In those cases, a smaller anchor, which can be lifted and moved easily is very nice to have.

Choosing Our Primary Anchor or “Bower”

What’s your bower ? You may hear this from time to time. At first, I thought people were talking about the popular midwest card game called Euchre. What they are really asking you is which anchor do you choose to be the one to keep on your bow, as your primary anchor for regular use.

We have had two “bowers” so far. The first is a 44lb Lewmar Delta Anchor, and the second is a 73lb (33kg) Rocna . Now, on to our experience with each.

The 44lb Lewmar Delta Anchor

The Delta anchor came with our boat when we purchased it. It was in good condition and already connected to the boat’s Lewmar Windlass via 66 meters (216 feet) of 10mm G4 galvanized chain .

That being the case, we had no plans to replace it, until we spent a few nights at anchor and did a little more cruising up the east coast to the majestic anchorages of Maine. This is when we put the anchor to the test.

Our First Experience Dragging Anchor

Like most new cruisers with a big asset, it is scary to leave the boat on its anchor and go to shore for the first time.

We had to get over this, and we did, but we always had that “what if” feeling while using the Delta 44lb. Not that it is a bad anchor, it is excellent, it just never gave us that comforting feeling.

In the big tidal changes that sweep in and out of Maine’s most beautiful anchorage is when we had our first dragging experience. Not much, just a little after the anchor refused to reset after a big change in the current direction.

We were on board, and it was no problem to reset the anchor by raising it and re-anchoring.

Setting the Anchor

Another issue we were having in the soft mud in areas of Maine was the ability to quickly set the Lewmar Delta Anchor. We always felt the sets were pretty soft, and sometimes it seemed like we could just keep plowing it through the mud on the bottom with our engine in reverse.

Although going backward with our big 3-blade feathering Max-Prop pushed by a 75hp Yanmar turbo diesel is much more than most normal wind conditions, we still didn’t like that feeling of being able to drag the anchor while setting. What if a large storm front came like we saw on the great lakes and brought big 60-knot gusts? Would the Delta hold?

Upgrading to the 33kg Rocna Anchor

After many sleepless nights on the hook, and constantly setting anchor alarms while off the boat to run errands, we were hoping for peace of mind.

We found that peace in our Original Rocna 33kg (73lb) anchor. This “roll bar” style anchor was all the rage at the time on YouTube, but was it just hype? Back then we didn’t really know, but we took the gamble and ponied up on a new Rocna, which we ordered from Amazon.com to be shipped to Hinkley in Maine where we grabbed a mooring ball to make the switch.

The switch was easy, but we did have to adjust our bow roller slightly to accommodate the oversize anchor for our boat. Being racing sailors, we despise extra weight on the bow, especially at the forepeak where its weight is most noticeable. We can tell you now, without a doubt, the extra weight is worth it.

Trust But Verify

We knew the reviews were good. The new Rocna anchor set the first time. When it sets, you know it, you feel it. This is excellent as every time you anchor you can feel that you are locked in, this is an important trait to ease the mind.

When we cruised from Maine to the Bahamas, the crystal clear water of the island nation allowed us to have a good look at how our anchor was performing. We could actually watch it set, and see how it moved in different conditions.

Our first true test came while anchored off of Eleuthera’s Meeks Island in the easter Bahamas. A strong storm front rolled through which brought frontal winds of 60 knots. We were anchored in 15 feet of water with a 5:1 scope in the sand.

Anchoring in Storms

It was the middle of a cloudy night, in total darkness, the boat was thrown sideways with the first wind gust, and heeled to over 20 degrees. We watched the wind gauges, GPS, and anchor alarm with anxiety, ready to go on deck and react to a dragging boat. We stayed put, however.

Over the next few years of cruising we dealt with the famous Bahamas Christmas winds, tropical storms in the Caribbean, and the latest big blow of 45 knots in an open anchorage with a lee shore in Brazil.

We have learned that although it may be a rough ride if you have proper holding, a good anchor, and good chafe protection, you should not worry about your own boat, but about other boats drifting into you.

Using Two Anchors at Once

We have read a lot about deploying two anchors at once for many conditions. Some like to use two anchors in a V formation at the bow in storms. Others like to use a Bahamian mooring for shifting currents (this is two anchors set in line with their chains connected to the boat floating above in the middle).

We have never tried any of this in our 3 years of cruising. We are fans of keeping it simple. Dealing with one anchor if there is a problem in storm conditions can be a major undertaking and a cause for concern. Adding a second to this can be a major hurdle, especially for a shorthanded couples crew. Recovering one anchor can sometimes be a burden, no sense in adding to the fire.

Other’s Thoughts About Using 2 Anchors

We have also spoken with some old salts and round-the-world sailors that are also advocates of using only one anchor at a time.

One of those was the inventor of the Rocna anchor, Peter Smith, whom we met in the Azores. He is quite the accomplished sailor, having just finished navigating through the Northwest Passage, and an incredible source of knowledge. We couldn’t resist the chance to talk with him about our favorite late-night reading topic, anchors.

He was also a fan of a single oversized anchor and chain in most cases. The logic is when there is a large storm, if you have a problem with one anchor, with a second out, it could likely compound into a larger problem which may increase the danger. As a testament, his boat, a large aluminum ice class vessel named “Kiwi Roa” had a single Rocna up front.

Another salty dog we spoke with about the topic of anchoring in the Azores was Genuino Madruga . He is a wonderful sailor who has circumnavigated twice (once via the capes on the same route as we plan). His advice was also to use one anchor and swing on it in big weather. He told us he tried two anchors once for a storm, they tangled, and it was quite the shorthanded headache to fix.

Stern Anchors & Swell Bridles

The only time we have had two anchors in the water at the same time is for adjusting the boat to ride out rolling swell. Even then, in most conditions, we get away with a swell bridal to avoid having extra tackle in the water.

The swell bridle is just a long snubber brought back to midships and then run to a primary winch. This essentially allows your boat to set at a sideways angle to your anchor. Using the winch and windlass together you can adjust the length of each part of the V to match the swell and the wind.

This keeps your boat bow into the rolling ocean swell of an open roadstead anchorage. Caution must be taken with this configuration though. It is possible that with a big wind or current shift the line of the swell bridle led aft can easily go under the boat and possibly tangle in the keel or rudder.

We only use the swell bridle in calm conditions, never in a storm. We also advise removing it before leaving the boat. Lastly, take care while doing this in a full anchorage, as you will swing much differently than nearby boats.

What Anchor, Chain & Rode, Do We Carry On Board For Cruising

Over the last three years we have owned a total of four anchors and at one point carried all four on board: 43 lb Galvanized Danforth, 44lb Galvanized Lewmar Delta, 21lb Aluminium Fortress FX-37, 73lb Galvanized Rocna.

Now, some may quibble at only having two anchors on board, but in 3 years we have not found a use for more. If we had a larger budget and more space we would consider adding a second FX-37 or possibly similarly sized Mantus Anchor or aluminum Spade Anchor which can be disassembled and stored below in case of emergency or those odd cases when you want to set up a more permanent mooring.

Why We Carry Only Two Anchors

The weight of all of this anchoring gear can add up quickly on a cruising boat. Storing anchors and chains should not be taken lightly (pun intended). They are heavy items with sharp points, that could become dangerous projectiles in a boat offshore in large seas. Imagine what a 50lb or more anchor would do if stored under your settee in a knockdown!

Storage space is also a concern. Only a few anchors can be taken apart or folded away for stowage in tight places. This is excellent, but when will you need your 3rd or 4th anchor? Likely when the poo has hit the fan you will not have time to source it and assemble it.

This combined issue of space and weight comes into play on performance-oriented cruising sailboats and catamarans. Let’s face it, we all want to be safe, but there has to be a limit or you will never leave the shore. We find that selecting a larger primary anchor and oversize chain at least in our minds, offsets the need for carrying multiple smaller anchors.

Do You Need An Anchor Swivel or a Shackle

Over the past 3 years we have not used an anchor swivel. We use only a shackle. Our thought behind this is we want as little points of failure as possible in our system. The more direct the connection the better. As a plus, it has saved is a little money.

Whatever you decide to use, make sure to mouse your shackle. In other words, safety wire the bolt of the shackle closed so that it can not spin out. We keep a set of motorcycle/airplane safety wire pliers on board as we like the way they can securely and neatly lock in these bolts. Another option is to use a zip tie or two, or even some dyneema thread. This is a place we prefer metal though, and regularly replace it.

Which Type of Anchor Is Best

Discussing which anchor is best is like opening Pandora’s box. This article is not meant to go there and open a can of worms. We are strong believers in “you do you.” Essentially, to each their own. There are so many types of boats, sailing goals, anchoring conditions, etc. that it is impossible in our opinion to even attempt to give a definitive answer on this topic.

Many new boats can not accommodate this style of anchor though, so make sure that when choosing an anchor it will fit onto your boat. We would also highly recommend many of the new style anchors such as Spade, Mantus , and Rocna Vulcan. There are also the tried and true styles such as Bruce, CQR, Claw, Fisherman, and more. The old school still has its place in some unique situations, and it has held fast for many that went before us. Who are we to judge?

Of course, we have the Amazon.com links in this article if you would like to buy there. It is easy, and many times cheaper, it is hard to beat a free shipping deal on an anchor. Buying there after following our link helps us fund this website, our vlog, and our sailing life. However, we really do like to support the local chandleries. We wish there was some easy affiliate way to earn money while sailing and writing to do so, but there isn’t. If you can, we encourage you to support your local small businesses! When you are in a pinch, it is really nice to walk into a local store and speak with a knowledgeable mariner!

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The Bruce Anchor Sets Best

In our tests in sand of 11 anchors, the digger and two prototypes fail to set at all three scopes used. for the others, setting is sometimes a trade-off with holding power..

A goodly portion of the best years of every sailor’s life has been spent reading reports on, opinions regarding, claims for, studies of and test results about those odd-shaped objects called anchors.

It’s all in search of an all-purpose, never-failing, indestructible contraption with which one can attach the confounded boat to the crust of the good old earth, which unfortunately can be sandy, muddy, stony, rocky or weedy.

There are but two questions: Will the anchor set? Will the anchor hold?

Tests? There have been dozens of them—the French APAVE, the U.S. Navy tests, the RNLI (Royal National Lifeboat Institution) in England, the BOAT/U.S. and Cruising World magazine strength tests, the so-called Dutch tests (which were done in a huge sandbox), the on-going tests done by the naval architect and author Robert A. Smith, and lots of tests sponsored by anchor manufacturers.

Even the most recent impartial tests often aren’t very definitive. Perhaps the most noteworthy of these was the “Seattle Tests,” co-sponsored by the Safety at Sea Committee of the Sailing Foundation and West Marine. It involved two trawlers, two tugs, dozens of workers (including divers), five different sites in Puget Sound and 253 “sets” with seven anchors. Our exclusive report on the Seattle tests appeared in the February 1, 1996 issue.

Better Mousetraps And what of the new anchors not yet on the market? Anchoring is a subject that seems to fascinate inventors. It’s not just “build a better mousetrap.” Rather, it’s a trap that will catch mice, cockroaches, berserk bears and runaway bulldozers. Some of the new anchors are, frankly speaking, just plain weird. Nevertheless, each inventor seems very sure that his is going to be that perfect, all-purpose anchor.

Is there such a thing?

Probably not.

So, let’s take a different cut at it.

Which anchors excel or rate among the best in the various functions assigned to the anchor?

There never appears to be any disagreement that an anchor’s major functions are:

1. Setting 2. Holding (with dragging as a derivative) and, 3. Re-setting (or holding) when veered.

Four less important factors in anchor selection might be considered (1) the difficulty of breaking out, (2) weight onboard, (3) the quality of workmanship (as it pertains to long-term utility), and (4) ease of handling and stowage (either at the bow or in an anchor locker). With many boat owners, stowage, self-launching and automatic retrieval from the bow is a great plus. Conversely, no one likes to be forced routinely to break an anchor out of deep stowage, especially on any fairly large boat that requires an anchor of unhandy size and weight.

Indeed, for those who anchor often, self-launching and stowing can rank very tight up behind the three major functions.

How To Begin Taking first things first, Practical Sailor, in this attempt to field test anchors, herewith begins a series of tests that cumulatively should be of value to its readers, or at least assist in the selection of an anchor that best fits the intended usage.

Someone who sails in nice weather on weekends in protected water, never far from a nice harbor in which to have lunch or take a nap, can rightfully be said to have anchor needs radically different from the ocean cruiser wandering the world. Most of us fit somewhere in-between and can be described as sailors who occasionally get caught during very bad weather in an anchorage not of our choosing. The latter instance makes anchor selection very difficult.

Whatever the need, we’re reasonably sure that setting is one of the two most important major functions of an anchor. Setting and holding are inextricably linked. But an anchor is useless if it doesn’t set and leads to nervous disorders if it sets “62% of the time in sand, 29% of the time in shingle and almost never in weeds.”

So the next question is: “Sets in what?”

We’ll commence with sand, partly because it seems likely that anchoring is done most often in deliberately-sought-out sand bottoms, but also simply because one must start somewhere and sand seemed like a good medium in which to launch a developmental learning curve. In truth, an experienced sailor usually looks for the kind of bottom in which the anchor he favors works best. It’s when he doesn’t find his preferred conditions that he is at risk.

Designing The Test On a nearby beach, we devised a method to test each anchor both in wet sand (just above the waterline) and in sand in the water.

Wet sand just above the water’s edge is a difficult medium for an anchor to pierce; it’s much harder than sand under a foot or two of water.

The rode, assembled with standard shackles, was a 10′ length of 7/16″ chain backed with line. The line was lead to a snatch block 10′ off the ground level (on an 18″-diameter pole set deep in the sand) thence down through a block attached to a Dillon dynamometer and then to a two-speed, self-tailing Harken winch mounted on a fixed base.

The arrangement permitted the repeated testing of each anchor in hard wet sand and in the water, at scopes of 3:1, 5:1 and 7:1. This was done simply by placing the anchors at either 30′, 50′ or 70′ from the base of the pole. The three different scopes made the work time-consuming, but seemed necessary not only because of the varying claims made by anchor manufacturers, but also because, in actual anchoring, the available scope sometimes is limited.

After setting up the apparatus, it was easy to place an anchor on the wet sand or in the water, in any configuration desired, stake its original position and measure where it “took hold” and engaged the sand sufficiently to resist a 200-pound pull on the line. Because of the difficulty of measuring under water, the figures were rounded at 6″.

We found that it matters not how most anchors land on the bottom while being launched. A good anchor cares not how it lands. The initial pull on the rode swivels or flops such anchors to the proper position.

Because this was a test of setting characteristics, no attempt—other than a few deviations that seemed appropriate—was made to go beyond a 200-pound pull. That’s the pull that would be produced by a 30′ sailboat anchored in sheltered water in 30 knots of wind. (For a discussion of “The Load On Your Rode,” see the July 1, 1996 issue.)

Eleven Anchors In All For this initial test we selected the old standbys (CQR, Danforth and Bruce), plus relatively new types (Claw, Delta, Digger, Fortress, Max and the West Marine Performance2). The Ship’s Store in Portsmouth, Rhode Island loaned us a number of these anchors.

Also included are several prototypes, both very promising anchors that their designers asked us to test. We’ll not name the prototypes because they are under development, are not yet on the market and, in this test, yielded results not equal to those of the best of the rest. To pre-judge them would be unfair. We’ll use photos and describe them, but call them “A” and “B”.

In the process of testing, examining, experimenting, discussing and thinking about these anchors, we concentrated on the subject of how they set. However, it was impossible to reject thoughts about holding power, swiveling (or re-setting) ability and stowage. We also reviewed data from several of the prior tests identified earlier.

Thinking just about setting, it appears without question that designing an anchor is not a simple matter.

First of all, no matter how it is dropped to the bottom, the anchor must be capable of assuming its initial “dig-in” position. Further, its point or points must take an angle into the bottom. This “point presentation” is accomplished by a fairly large angle of attack (as in the case of the Bruce, Claw and Max), by a “heel” that heads the points downward (as with the lightweight types) or by weighting the point (as is done by the CQR, Delta and both of the prototypes). The latter suggests that the weight is only needed to help the anchor dig in, when in fact its purpose also is to shift the center of gravity away from the roll axis in order to force the point into the bottom.

From a pure engineering standpoint, adding weight to get an anchor to set seems self-defeating. The end product of that line of thought would be a 500-pound pointed chunk of lead. But if a weighted tip helps an anchor dig in quickly and that anchor performs other functions in a superior manner, the weight would become tolerable.

Whatever the design, one glaring, common conflict is that if an anchor is designed to go into the ground easily, it should have minimal cross-sectional resistance—which happens to be exactly the opposite of what an anchor needs to provide high holding power. We may later examine the “resisting plane footprints” or silhouettes of anchors.

The Bottom Line In the Practical Sailor test to determine not only what anchor sets best in sand but how long it drags before doing so, the Bruce was the hands-down top performer. As indicated by the chart, there is no question that the Bruce sets quicker than any other anchor. The Bruce was followed by the Max, the Claw and the Fortress.

The Bruce’s reputation for setting was enhanced by the Seattle tests, in which it set 97% of the time. Even in two rocky bottoms in which all other anchors had complete or unacceptable failures, the Bruce had a 100% record for setting. (Its closest competitor, a Max, set 65% of the time.) Besides Bruce and Max, in the Seattle tests, with their setting percentages, were a Luke yachtsman (14%), a CQR (63%), a Delta (57%), a West Marine Performance2 (65%) and a Fortress (59%). (The Claw, Digger, Danforth and two prototypes in our test were not included in the Seattle test.)

(The rankings in the Seattle column on the chart were developed using data only from three test sites; not used were data either from those two rocky sites that some observers firmly believed were not proper anchorages or from the two veering tests, which failed to produce adequate numbers for anchors that otherwise appeared outstanding. If the bad site data had been used, Bruce would rank #1 on our chart under the Seattle ranking.)

If one wants to carry an anchor that will set, with an insignificant percentage of failures, in any but the foulest bottom, a Bruce is the undisputed choice. That’s why it is a favorite aboard so many cruising and charter boats.

But despite its excellent setting ability, in almost every holding power test the Bruce has been outdone by other anchors.

Contacts- Bruce, IMTRA, 30 Barnet Blvd., New Bedford, MA 02745; 508/995-7000. CQR, Delta & Claw, Simpson Lawrence, 6208 28th Street East, Bradenton, FL 34203-4123; 800/946-3527. Danforth, Rule Industries, Cape Ann, Industrial Park, Gloucester, MA 01930; 508/281-0573. Digger Anchor Co., 104 4th St. SE, Renville, MN 56284; 800/653-1499. Fortress Marine Anchors, 1386 West McNab Rd., Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33309; 800/825-6289. Max, Creative Marine Products, Box 2120, Natchez, MS 39121; 800/824-0355. West Performance2, West Marine, Box 50050, Watsonville, CA 95077-5050; 800/538-0775.

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wonderful info but it’s impossible to read the graph because it’s so small and doesn’t expand

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Anchor Selection Guide: How to Choose the Best Boat Anchor Type

There are a number of boat anchors available, constructed of different materials, and often with confusing names. This article will discuss the most popular types of boat anchors,  how to choose the best anchor for your boat, the most common material types, and also give an overview of different naming conventions.

Quick Anchor Style Summary

Video: Choosing an Anchor Type

Our video below introduces many of the anchor types discussed here, although the article discusses a few more anchor types and provides some useful links.

Quick Summary Boat Anchor Recommendation

For most boaters , a Bruce or Delta is the best balance between price and performance. Both perform similarly and are similarly priced (Narrowly, the Bruce/Claw is our favorite of the three). If you've used a Danforth in the past , and you have had luck with it, choose a Danforth. If you've never used one before and if your setup allows it, choose a Bruce or Delta instead. If you're a blue-water cruiser , choose a CQR, or consider one of the new generation of anchors discussed below.

Boat Anchor Names: Trademarked Names and Generic Names

A special note is needed on the naming of anchors. Many anchors have a trademarked name, such as a   Bruce   or CQR, and a generic name like Claw or Plow. This is the same as how Xerox is a trademarked name for photocopier and how Aspirin is a trademarked name for pain killer. Trademarks effectively never expire whereas design patents expire after approximately 20-25 years. Therefore, manufacturers are free to clone an anchor design that has an expired patent but cannot use the trademarked name.

Bruce™ Claw Anchor

The   Bruce, or Claw, remains one of the most popular anchors among recreational boaters in North America. This is our anchor of choice as well.

The   Bruce   was developed in the 70s by the Bruce Anchor Group. Once their patent expired in the early 2000s, they stopped production of this anchor but many imitations have come along since.

The  Bruce  is an excellent all-purpose anchor as it performs well in most sea bottoms including mud, sand, rock, and coral. It has a harder time penetrating harder surfaces, such as clay, and bottoms with heavy grass. The three-claw design sets more easily than other anchors. It also resets easily if it is ever broken loose. On the downside, the Bruce has a lower holding power per pound than other anchors, meaning you’ll usually need a larger anchor than say the  Delta/Wing .

Pros:  Performs well in most conditions. Sets easily. Cons:  Awkward one piece design. Lower holding power per pound. Bottoms: Performs well in most bottoms; Struggles in hard bottoms such as clay, or heavy grass.

CQR™/Plow   &   Delta™/Wing Anchor

Both the CQR/Plow and the Delta/Wing are a plow style anchor. The most significant difference between these anchors is the fact that the CQR has a hinged design whereas the Delta is a one piece design.

The   CQR   is one of the oldest styles, dating back to the 30s and to this day, it remains one of the most popular anchors among blue water cruisers. Despite this, it has relatively low holding power and it consistently struggles in independent tests. It’s also rare to find a CQR under 25 lbs lending itself to the saying “There’s no such thing as a small CQR”. Despite these shortcomings, the hinged design makes it more responsive to wind and tide changes as compared to other anchors.

The   Delta   is arguably the most popular anchor on boats today, and is the standard anchor of choice used by most boat manufacturers. It has a good holding power per pound (about 50% more than the Bruce).

Both the   Delta   and the   CQR   perform well in most bottoms, struggling the most in rock.

Pros:   Performs well in most conditions. Fits most bow rollers. Cons:   Hinged design can make stowage awkward. "No such thing as a small CQR/Plow anchor". Bottoms : Performs well in most bottoms; struggles in rock.

Danforth™/Fluke Anchor

The  Danforth , or Fluke anchor, remains a very popular anchor choice. The Fortress is also a popular Fluke style anchor, different from the  Danforth  in that it comes apart and it constructed of light-weight, high-strength, aluminum.

The Fluke performs well in mud and sand, potentially the best of any anchor style. The downside is that outside of these bottoms, it is not a good performer. Therefore, it is a mud/sand only anchor, which fortunately is what most bottoms are comprised of.

Whether or not it is used as a primary anchor, a Fluke anchor makes an excellent choice as a secondary or stern anchor.

Pros:  Performs well in mud and sand. Stows easily on most bow rollers. Cons:   Does not perform well outside of mud/sand. Bottoms : Top performer in mud/sand. Performs poorly in other bottoms.

Spade Anchors

There are several anchors on the market today that feature a sharp fluke and a roll bar. These include the   Rocna and Manson Supreme.

Each of these anchors are essentially a variation on a plow style anchor. If you look at the plow portion of these anchors, you can see they are a lot sharper than traditional plows like the   Delta/Wing   and CQR. Analogous to a knife through butter, these anchors can penetrate the sea bottom a lot easier and deeper than the other anchor styles, hence the name for these anchors: "spade". The roll bar helps orient the anchor upright when setting.

These anchors have performed   extremely well in third party tests . The biggest downside to these anchors is that because they are still patented, they can be very expensive. The roll bar along with the elongated fluke can also make storing these anchors on bow rollers difficult.

Pros:   Very high holding power for many models. Cons:   Difficult to stow on a bow roller. Expense. Bottoms : Performs well in most bottoms; less effective in rock

Grapnel   and Other Small Craft Anchors

A  Grapnel anchor  is generally used for small boats such as Kayaks, Dinghies, Canoes, etc. It’s also popular with fishermen.They fold up very compactly and are easy to stow. A Grapnel’s holding power comes from hooking onto another object, such as a rock. When it does hook, it can create immense holding power, which can also make retrieving the anchor difficult.

Pros:  Great for use as a lunch hook. Folds to allow for compact storage. Cons:  Not appropriate for non-temporary anchorage. Bottoms: Rock or other situations when it can hook onto an object.

Mushroom Anchors

Large Mushroom anchors  are often used for permanent mooring buoys. As the silt from the sea-bottom builds up over these anchors, it can result in extreme holding power, up to 10 times the holding power of its actual weight. As a mooring buoy, the mushroom anchor is an excellent choice, however, it is not as useful in some temporary anchoring situations. An exception is that smaller versions of these anchors are good for use in small boats for anchoring while fishing or for a lunch stop over silty bottoms where the mushroom can penetrate.

Pros: If large, great for permanent mooring buoys. If small, good for use while fishing or for a lunch stop. Cons: If large, not appropriate for non-permanent moorings. If small, only good in soft bottoms. Bottoms: Silt, soft mud, unpacked sand.

Boat Anchor Material Types

Boat anchors come in a variety of types, the most popular being mild steel, high-tensile steel, stainless steel, and aluminum.

Most of the traditional steel anchors we are accustomed to seeing are likely either mild or high tensile steel. Mild steel and high-tensile steel are nearly indistinguishable from one another appearance wise. However, high tensile steel is 2-3 times stronger than mild steel. This isn't to say that a high-tensile steel boat anchor has 2-3 times the holding power of its mild steel counterpart, but it will nonetheless be stronger.

Both mild steel and high-tensile steel anchors are not corrosion resistant, and therefore need to be galvanized to prevent rust and other corrosion. All steel anchors (except stainless) should be galvanized. Galvanization has a tendency to wear down over time, but an anchor (as well as nearly any other steel product) can be re-galvanized.

Stainless steel is identical to galvanized steel in terms of holding power but differs significantly in appearance. The shiny gloss is essentially the only difference between stainless steel and galvanized steel. Stainless steel is also very corrosion resistant and will resist most rusting over time. You will often see manufacturers describing stainless steel as either 316 Stainless or 304 Stainless. 316 is a different chemical composition than 304 and is more corrosion resistant. It also more expensive.

There are some anchors constructed from high strength aluminum, such as the Fortress. These anchors are extremely lightweight while still offering high holding power. These anchors rely on bottom penetration for most of the holding power, and therefore, if they are not set, they provide little to no holding power.

Published May 08, 2018

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5 Tips For Anchoring Your Sailboat

If you are anything like me, anchoring your sailboat in a quite, snug cove or harbor can be hard to beat. But how do you choose an anchoring spot that will provide you with a worry-free “night on the hook”? Follow these five easy tips to enjoy one of sailing’s most sought-after pleasures.

1. Check Your Ground Tackle for Integrity

Check your anchor ground tackle before you make your approach into an anchorage . This applies to quiet coves or crowded anchorages. Ground tackle consists of each part of your anchor , fastenings, rope, and chain that form an “umbilical cord” from your boat to the sea bottom. If one single part of your ground tackle fails, this could put your boat and sailing crew in danger. You could drag anchor and end up aground.

Take the time now to check for chafe (wear and tear), broken fittings, and bent or distorted anchor parts. Pay close attention to the anchor shank (long arm of the anchor attached to your rope or chain). This vulnerable anchor part needs to be straight without distortion. If bent, do not attempt to straighten the shank. This will weaken it–much like bending a paperclip back and forth. Use another anchor for peace of mind.

2. Choose Protection from Wind and Waves

What direction are the winds from right now? Are those winds expected to shift in a new direction over the next 24-48 hours? Answer these two vital questions before you select an anchorage. Next, look at your nautical chart and find a cove or indentation with protection from wind and waves on at least two sides. Protection on three sides gives you the best security.

For example, let’s say the wind blows from the north. You listen to the predicted forecast and winds are expected to shift to the northeast overnight. Choose an anchorage with protection from the north and east, or protection from the west, north and east. That way, your small sailboat will be protected from the present wind and waves (from the north), and the future, predicted wind and waves (from the northeast).

3. Know Your Seabed Bottom Material

Scan the chart inside the cove you have chosen. You need to have bottom material that your anchor can get a bite into. Sand, hard mud, and clay are ideal to drop your hook. Anchors tend to bury deep into these types of seabed materials. On the other hand, rock, grass, or kelp will be quite difficult for most any anchor to bite into. Your anchor might bounce over a rock-hard bottom or slide over slippery seabeds. Take the time to choose an “anchor friendly” seabed and you will sleep better at night.

4. Select the Best Anchor for the Sea Bottom

Carry at least two anchors aboard your boat. Purchase original anchors–not knock-offs. Copy-cat anchors can be of questionable build quality–unable to take the shear loads experienced when anchored. Choose an anchor that works well in good bottoms and one that you can trust in poorer bottoms. For softer seabeds like soft mud or soft sand pick an anchor like the Fortress. For other bottoms, use a well-proven boat anchor like the Rocna.

Cruising sailboats often carry three or more anchors so that they can use multiple anchors in stormy weather. Remember this–your anchor becomes your #1 primary insurance policy underway–not a piece of paper from a marine insurance company! Spend the money for superior anchor gear and you will be rewarded with confidence, peace-of-mind, and worry-free cruising anywhere in the world.

If you are anything like me, anchoring your sailboat in a quite, snug cove or harbor can be hard to beat.

5. Allow for Swing Room and Scope

Survey the anchorage area once you arrive. Make a few loops around the anchorage spot. Look at how other boats are anchored. Follow suite. If other boats have two anchors out, so should you. Favor that side of the anchorage nearer boats with designs close to your boat. Boats of like-designs swing at anchor in similar fashion.

Remember that your anchor marks the center of the circle and you will swing around the anchor in a circle–called a “swing circle”. Estimate the swing-circle of other boats. When you drop anchor, make sure that your swing circle does not intersect the swing-circle of another boat. Keep well clear of shoals (shallow water) or land downwind of your chosen anchor spot. Calculate the amount of anchor rode you need for safety. Allow 7 feet of rode for each foot of water depth–called “scope”. Add expected height of tidal rise and the distance of your bow above water in your calculations.

For example, let’s say you arrive at your anchorage and you will anchor in 10 feet of water. The tide tables say the tide will rise another 5 feet. Your bow is 3 feet above the water. How much scope do you need? Add everything and multiply by 7. 10 feet + 5 feet + 3 feet = 18 feet x 7 = 126 feet. Put out 126 feet of anchor rode for safe anchoring.

Follow these five tips for anchoring your sailboat safe and sound in any anchorage. This will give you confidence and peace-of-mind–wherever in the world you choose to cruise!

Captain John  shows you the sailing skills you need for safe sailing anywhere in the world. Sign up for a FREE issue of the highly popular “Captain John’s Sailing Tips” newsletter and learn how you can get instant access to over 425 sailing articles, sailing videos, newsletters and more at  SkipperTips .

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How to Anchor a Sailboat

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

One of the most vital skills for a sailor is oftentimes one of the most confounding ones. Setting the hook in all the different types of anchorages you’re likely to end up in can be confusing to new boaters. Despite how perplexing it can be, this skill is incredibly important, lest you find yourself waking in the middle of the night to the sound of your boat dragging anchor towards rocks.

Good technique and properly-sized equipment for anchoring is vital. Yet, more times than not, even experienced sailors are distracted or in a hurry and skip one of the vital steps for anchoring securely. Even worse, some new sailors never learn the essentials and just throw any anchor-shaped hunk of metal overboard, hoping for the best. That tactic isn’t likely to keep you safe while you slumber so let’s go through what you should do instead.

Table of contents

A Little Forethought

The first thing to do when you’re going to anchor is to pick an anchorage. This may already seem like a lot, but picking a good spot is crucial. You must understand the conditions of that spot before tossing your anchor into the water and calling it good.

Use the chart you purchased or printed out, making a note of all the vital information. Things like wind direction and speed, tidal currents, and even the forecast can be important pieces of the puzzle. Pay extra attention to anything that might reverse the direction your boat is being pulled to prevent having your anchor pulled out.

The best spot is going to have some protection from the wind and waves. You would prefer to have a sand or mud bottom as opposed to a rock or heavy grass bottom. If you have a brand new chart, it’s probably going to have information on the bottom characteristics as well as some of those good spots marked out. You should also make sure that your spot is a few feet deeper than the draft of your boat during low tide.

Once you’ve picked your spot, it’s time to prepare the anchor. Whether lowered by hand or on a roller, make sure the anchor rode is free to run. If it isn’t marked at progressive depths with tags or color codes, stretch it back and forth on deck to keep track of how much rode you’re letting out. For safety’s sake, plan out at least 6 times the water depth.

Actual Anchoring

The actual technique of anchoring can be a bit tricky to learn but can buy you some peace of mind once mastered. Knowing your boat isn’t going to slip off into the night or ram into a neighbor because your anchor dragged can be a massive relief. No one wants to awaken to a bump in the night.

First, you have to actually position the boat where you want to anchor. For motorsailers, you may find this easier to do under power. However you decide to do it, move slowly. There is no need to rush this. It’s better to take a long time on a secure anchor than to rush and drag later. Once you’re over the position, drop anchor. Be careful not to drop a ton of chain on top of your anchor.

Once the anchor is on the seabed, let the boat drift back gradually as you pay out chain. Don’t disturb the anchor yet. For the anchor to work, you want to pull horizontally along the seabed. You are setting the scope as you pay out the chain. The goal is to get the anchor to pull at 15° to 20°. Once sufficient chain has been let out, secure the anchor chain on deck.

Now we have to wait for the anchor to dig in and take its initial set. Once you have the initial set, begin slowly moving astern until the anchor chain straightens out. While you’re moving your boat, pay very careful attention to the chain. If it jumps, that means you’re dragging anchor. If everything seems alright then feel free to hook up the snubber and let out more chain until there’s a loop of it between the snubber hook and the bow roller. Congratulations on anchoring your boat.

Additional Tips

Some additional tips and tricks are in order. This is just good information to have in the back of your mind when anchoring.

Using the Right Type of Anchor

First, your type of anchor heavily influences your ability to set the hook.  Most cruising sailboats are going to be equipped with at least two types, each with their own separate rodes. The preferred choice for the bower is generally a spade while a lightweight Danforth generally takes the spot as a kedge. Be familiar with the anchors you’re going to be using and how they’re designed to function.

It may seem strange but the good old-fashioned fisherman’s anchor isn’t going to work the same way as a modern CQR anchor. They are also going to do generally better at different sea beds.

Find the Right Size

Match the anchor you’re using to the size of your boat. All anchors are not created equal. If you’re using a 15lb anchor on a 33ft motorsailer, you are probably not going to have it easy. If you don’t appropriately size your anchor for your vessel, you are increasing the chance of dragging.

If you aren’t sure what size anchor to get, check with the boat’s manufacturer. They often have recommendations. At the end of the day, it’s alright to go on the bigger side of things. Don’t choose your anchor for reasonable conditions. Expect the absolute worst situations because you can’t change your anchor when you’re already out on the seas.

Dragging the Anchor

Understand what it really means to drop anchor. This isn’t a literal phrase. You should lower the anchor slowly. Lowering the anchor gradually prevents the chain from falling on the anchor flukes and fouling the anchor. Dropping it too quickly makes it more likely that a fouled anchor is going to drag if the wind comes up later.

Even when you’ve anchored perfectly and everything has gone according to plan, you should still check periodically.  Changing conditions could result in that perfectly-set anchor deciding to drag anyway. Before you take a load off for the night, make sure to have a few ways to tell if your boat is dragging. A modern method is a GPS which can easily reveal a change of positions.

Something a little lower tech would be a small secondary anchor with a noise maker tied to it and dangled over the cockpit. If set up correctly, when the boat moves, the secondary anchor’s rope will pull and cause the noise maker to fall down into the cockpit. If all goes as planned, you wake up to the banging and take any actions needed.

A way to verify dragging is to check the anchor rode at the bow. You may be able to see or feel changes in its tension. If the anchor is bouncing all over the place, it will be easy to spot or feel.

Anchors Aweigh

Keeping your boat from dragging and drifting into rocks, another boat, or a reef is at the top of your priority list. In order to make sure your anchor sets properly and your night of sleep isn’t interrupted by the sound of a boat running aground, it’s best to be safe rather than sorry.

Go through your plan slowly. Make sure you pick the best anchorage for your needs. Check that none of the conditions might change while you’re on the hook, causing your boat to drift in the opposite direction and pull your anchor free. Ensure that you have the right equipment to begin with and make sure to double-check the anchor before you call it a night. It’s better to stay up a little later and make sure your anchor is properly set than to wake up to bad news.

Related Articles

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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How to Pick a Boat Anchor: The Guide to Types, Sizes & Weights

October 20, 2023

Lakes can get choppy, and river currents can drag you along when you'd rather stay put. Having the right anchor on your boat is crucial, especially if you're busy staging for a wakeboard or ski ride .

But what type and size of anchor is best for your setup?

Types of Boat Anchors

Let's look at the most popular types of boat anchors, and look at some charts to figure out what size and weight anchor is right for you.

Fluke Anchors

Also known as a Danforth anchor, the fluke anchor is favored by lake and river boat owners for its lightweight design and excellent holding power in soft bottoms.

Fluke anchors have a rotating bar that connects the anchor to the line. Their forward-heavy profile allows the flukes to drive straight down into sand or mud. As line is laid out, the bar swivels into a horizontal position, providing good scope.

• Boat Size: 30 feet or less
• Best For: Lakes, rivers, mud and sand
• Bad For: Rocks, debris, coral, strong currents

Plow Anchors

Also called a delta anchor, the plow anchor is one of the most popular anchors on the boat market. It's simple and effective, capable of providing reliable mooring in all water conditions and most beds.

Plow anchors dig into the surface below and they provide high holding power. They set quickly, which makes them an excellent choice when strong currents and winds could otherwise quickly move your boat.

But plow anchors' large, flat fins can get stuck in debris and large rocks, so it's best to stick to softer bottoms.

• Boat Size: 70 feet or less
• Best For: Sand, mud, grass bottoms, strong winds
• Bad For: Rocky bottoms

Claw Anchors

Also known as a Bruce anchor, the claw anchor is similar to a plow anchor: It sets quickly and digs into soft bottoms, providing good holding power against currents and wind -- though not as well as a plow.

Because claw anchors use smaller pins, they're better suited in gravel and rock, affording a lower risk of catching and getting stuck where a plow anchor might get hung up.

Digger Anchors

The digger anchor excels at providing high holding power in gravel and rocky bottoms, even with strong currents and high wind. It uses a rod that partially rotates, while limiting the angle of the anchor line's scope.

As current and wind pull on the boat, the rod's limited angle pulls on the anchor's claws, pushing them further into the bottom. The digger's thin, long claws work great in virtually all bottom, including gravel and small rocks -- just avoid large debris, as the limited angle of the anchor rod prevents it from being pulled back out of a snag effectively.

• Boat Size: 40 feet or less
• Best For: Sand, mud, grass, gravel, strong winds
• Bad For: Bottoms with large debris

Navy Anchors

The classic, heavy, big navy anchor excels at providing high holding power in all waters and conditions. Its size and shape make it suitable for rocky bottoms and debris fields, as it has little risk of getting snagged.

The only problem with a navy anchor is that its benefits can become problematic for smaller vessels: Because navy anchors are large and heavy, they can be difficult to stow, and they add plenty of weight to the hull.

• Boat Size: 20+ feet
• Best For: All bottoms, currents, and weather
• Bad For: Small, light boats

Mushroom Anchors

The mushroom anchor is made for small vessels in relatively calm waters with soft bottoms. It relies on suction and sinking into sand, dirt, and mud to provide holding power. These anchors are typically found on light, electric motor-powered boats, kayaks, and dingy boats.

• Boat Size: 12 feet or less
• Best For: Soft bottoms free of rock
• Bad For: Large boats, heavy currents, rocky bottoms

River Anchors

Like the mushroom anchor, the river anchor is also intended for small vessels in lakes and rivers -- but with one exception: The river anchor works well in rocky bottoms and beds filled with debris. The wide, flat flukes work best when they can grab hold of objects on the floor. River anchors work well enough in soft bottoms, albeit with less holding power than a mushroom.

• Best For: rocky bottoms and debris fields
• Bad For: Large boats, heavy currents

Choosing The right Size Anchor

When selecting a boat anchor, it's important to consider the following factors:

The size and weight of your boat will determine the size and weight of the anchor you need. As a general rule, the heavier the boat, the larger and heavier the anchor should be.

Water and Weather

The type of weather and currents you encounter will influence your anchor choice. Different anchors perform better in different conditions, so it's important to choose one that suits your boating environment.

Conditions of Water Bed

The floor your anchor rests upon can vary wildly. Some lakes and rivers have rocky bottoms filled with debris, while others have soft silt or sand. Picking the wrong setup could mean you wind up drifting, or worse, cutting line because your anchor got stuck at the bottom.

Anchor Weight vs. Boat Size Chart

The chart above is a general guideline for selecting the appropriate anchor weight for your boat. Conditions on the water, and the weight of your boat -- regardless of its size -- could mean you need a heavier anchor.

Anchor Chain vs. Rope

When it comes to anchoring, you'd think chain is far superior to rope. But chain really only provides two advantages: It adds holding power, helping to keep your boat moored in one spot in rough water and strong currents, and it resists chafing -- it won't suffer damage from being dragged along debris and rocks.

Chain is heavy, though, so it adds weight to your craft when not being used. This isn't a concern on large, sea-going vessels. But you probably don't want that added weight when you're cruising around on the river or lake, especially when towing a wakeboard, tube, or skis.

Chain also rusts, even with regular maintenance, and it's expensive. Nowadays, synthetic anchor rope is tough and abrasion-resistant, and it withstands water and sunlight incredibly well. It's also lightweight relative to its strength, and it takes up much less space than chain.

The most effective setup combines a bit of chain near the anchor, with rope making up the rest of the line. Just a few feet of chain is needed to ensure your anchor is properly seated. This bit of chain also improves the scope of your line. "Scope?" You, say? Read on.

It's All About Scope

Rope alone will provide as much holding power as chain, so long as your scope is correct. Scope measures the ratio of the length of deployed rope (or chain) to the height from the ocean, lake, or riverbed to the anchor point on the boat.

The minimum effective scope you need to properly moor your vessel with any anchor and line is 5:1. That means if the depth from your boat's topside to the underwater floor is 5 feet, you need 25 feet of rope laid out below. This affords about 75% of the maximum holding power of your anchor and line.

A scope of 10:1, laid perfectly flat on the bed below, provides 100% holding power. Using the same 5 foot depth, you'd need 50 feet of anchor rope or chain laid out for max holding power.

Need a new anchor setup? Check out our boat anchors and anchor lines !

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A Boater's Guide To Cruising The Bahamas

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Reaching paradise never comes easy. This veteran of the Bahamas liveaboard life shows how it's done.

An aerial view of the Exumas. (Photo: Onne van der Wal)

They say that no one knows the exact number of islands in the Bahamas. Some say that there are around 2,400 of them, scattered about a stunning 590-mile-long archipelago, with its closest area being, for many boats, just one day's trip from Florida. Fewer than 50 of these islands have a village or town. Most are tiny islets with rocky shorelines and white beaches hinting of pink. Each is a gem of mangrove, casuarinas, palmetto, sea grape, and coconut palms hiding curly tail lizards, hermit crabs, and birds. But it's the wonderland of the ocean that is the Bahamas' most spectacular feature, with its warm turquoise waters over much of the shallow Bahama Banks.

On a good day, cruising on the banks, you can look into those clear waters and see fish, sharks, and rays darting away from your hull's shadow as it sweeps across the bottom. Below you, grass and fan coral sway with the current. Brain coral hides exotic fish, lobster, and moray eel. Dramatic troughs leading from the shallows out to sea — such as the Tongue of the Ocean and the Northwest Providence Channel — divide the banks, the changing water colors from light turquoise to deep blue leaving even seasoned world travelers in awe.

The islands of the Bahamas lie mostly along the edges of the banks. On some of the outer islands, mail and groceries arrive by boat, and telephone and electricity in homes are relatively recent developments. While some equate the Bahamas with the cities of Nassau or Freeport, the boater's dreams tend to be of islands a bit farther off, such as Long Island, Highborne Cay, Eleuthera, Royal Island, Green Turtle, Mayaguana, Ragged Island, Crooked Island, and the Jumentos — or islands with no names at all, except as they're known to locals, such as Chicken Cay or "His and Hers."

Getting Around And About

The culture, dialect, and pace are distinctly Caribbean, yet the western waters of the Bahamas are only a little over 40 miles from Florida at the closest point. That 40-plus miles is composed of the mighty Gulf Stream, a warm and powerful river in the ocean with current rushing from south to north. Crossing it in the right conditions can be a beautiful trip. But crossing it in the wrong conditions, such as during strong northerly winds, can be dangerous and extremely uncomfortable. Pick your weather carefully, look for flat calm or gentle southerlies, and never go on the verge of a cold front or storm.

Snug all-weather anchorages are rare in the Bahamas, but when you find them, they offer camaraderie, supplies, and parties. (Photo: Onne van der Wal)

When my family and I first started going to the Bahamas many years ago, we followed a compass course and adjusted our routes to currents, wind, and waves. When we reckoned enough time had passed to raise an island, we searched the horizon. If we saw an island, we had to figure out which it was using landmarks, like clumps of trees or hills or colored cliffs. As we sailed in from deep ocean water onto to the shallow Bahama Banks, it was always a stunning moment as the depth sounder went from off soundings to 15 feet! We relied on the art of reading the colors of the water and the vagaries of the tidal currents by watching fan coral and sea grasses swaying to the flow under our boat — a fun endeavor, unless the light was poor or in our eyes.

Today, it's easier with GPS chartplotters. But you get in trouble if you rely too heavily on electronics. Sand shoals shift from year to year, and rocky bars and reefs may not be perfectly charted in the first place. A GPS fix is only as good as the chart you're relying on, and strong currents in inlets can set you onto rocks even as you watch your icon on the screen. And if your GPS equipment or the system isn't functioning well, you can get into trouble. The popularity of "crowdsourcing" doesn't necessarily work well in these waters, either; you never know the experience level of "the crowd" or the accuracy of their observations. Being a little off can put you on a reef.

Reliable guidebooks and paper charts are essential for Bahamas cruising. Otherwise, GPS waypoints extrapolated from mixed data may not be right on the spot. "Right on the spot" is critical when you're navigating an inlet that's only a few hundred feet wide with rocks and reefs around it and swells rolling in. Remember, Bahamas aids to navigation are rare and often not maintained.

Unlike the more forgiving waters of, say, Chesapeake Bay, the Bahamas are riddled with reefs, rocks, and brown bars (rocky ledges) that can quickly hole a boat, and there's no U.S. Coast Guard daily presence. There are some very good salvage firms, but the waters to which they must respond are vast. Lack of infrastructure means inconveniences and often long periods of time required for repairs. In many areas, there are few or no secure marinas or good anchorages available for storm protection. The Bahamas is mostly beautiful wilderness, so take care and navigate conservatively. To do so, you'll need the most reliable charts.

Sara and Monty Lewis began cruising the Bahamas more than 35 years ago. They produce and update The Explorer Chartbooks . Experienced cruisers swear by these Lewis charts. The waypoints provided are, they say, based on the Lewis team actually having gone to the rock, the deep part of the inlet, or the reef and recording the exact GPS reading while on site or verified with satellite photos or trusted advisers' data. Not only do they provide accurate full-color navigational charts, they also include cruising guide "need-to-know info" with informative articles and updated details on facilities and services throughout the Bahamas. (It's information from The Explorer Chartbooks that we heavily relied upon to bring you this article.)

Introducing The Bahamas By Region

Coming by boat , you'll probably get your first impression of the Bahamas from its western boundary. Here, the water and reefs are beautiful, and there are some anchorages for settled weather, as well as some marinas. Most of the small islands have rocky shores and lack good all-weather anchorages.

The Bimini Chain, a series of small cays (pronounced "keys") lies across the Gulf Stream from Miami and Fort Lauderdale. North and South Bimini and Cat Cay are settled. The mysterious stone slabs of the Bimini Road lie under nearby waters, fueling stories of Atlantis. Popular with the sportfishing fleet, Bimini has a village, several marinas, restaurants, and now a resort/casino and a Hilton Hotel.

Whether you prefer fishing Bimini's flats or heading out into the deep for bigger game, charters abound. (Photo: Bahamas Ministry of Tourism)

To accommodate those who want to experience the beauty, often the beauty is sacrificed. Bimini has suffered, in my view, as have many of the islands, from the negatives of tourism. In recent years, many of the mangroves on the northern end of Bimini have been replaced by resort development. On the west side, an ocean-docking facility for fast ferries from Miami was built from material dredged up from the ocean bottom. But the Biminis are still accommodating as far as clearing customs and stopping to rest in a marina before crossing the banks. With the tourism have come positives — better availability of parts and goods and better communications in Bimini and other settled areas.

To the north of the Bimini Chain, separated from it by the deep Northwest Providence Channel, is the large island of Grand Bahama , with resorts and marinas. At the far northwestern end of Grand Bahama, the critically located Old Bahama Bay Marina offers shelter for boats caught by weather, as well as many amenities.

Old Bahama Bay Marina at the northwestern end of Grand Bahama offers shelter to boats caught by weather, as well as many amenities for boaters. (Photo: Bahamas Ministry of Tourism)

Southeast of the Bimini Chain, across the Great Bahama Banks, lies the giant and mysterious island of Andros . Known as the bonefishing capital of The Bahamas, Andros's vast swamps, creeks, mangrove shallows, and miles of woods stretch more than 100 miles south to north, divided into three major sections of land connected by mangrove and tidal swamp. Scattered about are many of the famous "blue holes" of the Bahamas, some far inland from the shore, extending deep down, many connected with the ocean through a labyrinth of subterranean passages. Nearby, the recently discovered Andros Platform, a multitiered structure of huge, flat, squared blocks, remains silently under the waves, begging explanation.

With limited good anchorages, sparsely populated Andros hasn't experienced the large influx of cruising boats. The Great Bahama Banks blends with the shallows and swamp of its western shore, but its eastern shore faces the deep "Tongue of the Ocean" and has several towns with limited facilities, such as Morgan's Bluff, Fresh Creek, and Congo Town. One of the longest barrier reefs in the world guards this shore, allowing limited access. Andros, like so many other islands, is yet to be awakened, and many would say that's good.

Spiny lobster season is August through March. (Photo: Bahamas Ministry of Tourism)

The Abacos is a great place for Bahamas exploration. While it is often considered more civilized than other areas, it's been affected less from tourism. Marinas, protected anchorages with good holding, shopping, good drinking water, restaurants, and small hotels make the area especially inviting. Many cruisers gravitate to the "Hub of the Abacos" with the towns and harbors of Man O'War, Hope Town, and Marsh Harbour. You can take short hops to different towns or anchorages across the shallow Sea of Abaco without going outside the reefs into the ocean. To the northwest of the Hub, and through sometimes-dangerous Whale Cay Passage, lies Green Turtle Cay with its several protected basins, marinas, and the town of New Plymouth with its quaint pastel homes similar to those of Man O'War and Hope Town.

The Berry Islands, known as "Der Berrys" by many Bahamians, are another expanse of small islands surrounded by shallow banks that rise from deep ocean. To the south and west of the busier Abacos, they aren't as heavily cruised because of their shallows and rolly anchorages, but this isolation makes them very attractive to some. Islands such as Great Stirrup, Great Harbor, Whale Cay, and Chub Cay rim the banks. Dinghy passages snake among white shoals and low-tide sand islands. It's easy to get lost. Only three marinas make bases for exploration. Chub Cay Marina is completely protected within an enclosed basin, recently reopened after hurricane damage, though not in full operation as of the date of this writing. Great Harbour Cay Marina also offers excellent shelter and is affordable, with more slips available for transients. In addition, the popular Berry Islands Club is also reopening its restaurant, rebuilding its docks, and fortifying its moorings after a hiatus. Always check ahead for any marina, to be sure it's currently open.

Downtown Nassau is known for its colorful architecture. (Photo: Bahamas Ministry of Tourism)

Many tourists consider Nassau to be synonymous with the Bahamas. Not hardly. This is the capital of the Bahamas and more than half the Bahamian population lives on its island of New Providence . It has the good and bad traits of most cities, with a distinctly Caribbean flavor, though reports of violent crime are increasing. Police in white uniforms direct traffic. Horse-drawn carriages commingle with cars, jitneys, and scooters. Buildings and customs reminiscent of the British Colonial Empire blend with things modern, overlaid with a significant share of poverty.

Nassau Harbour separates the "mainland" from Paradise Island, which has luxury hotels and casinos. The northwestern entrance to the harbor is deep and jettied, with several buoys. Huge cruise liners enter, but the inlet can be dangerous in strong onshore winds.

Anchoring isn't recommended in much of the harbor because of poor holding, strong currents, fast boats, wakes, and crime issues. There are several marinas; if Nassau has to be on your cruising itinerary, many boaters select a marina on Paradise Island. The southeastern entrance channel is only around 8 feet deep in one spot where coral heads and rocky bars dictate precise navigation.

To the southeast, the Exuma Cays curve in a northwest-southeast direction. The Exumas have only a few small all-weather marinas. Most anchorages are unprotected from westerlies, so they're only good for settled weather. The few that are sheltered from westerlies are between rocky islands and plagued by swift current and scoured bottom. The islands are generally rocky with low vegetation, sparse population, and a few villages. Nevertheless, each year more and more boats visit .

Cruisers lying to moorings in the beautiful and protected Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park. In many places, moorings are preferred or even required to avoid damage to the bottom and because of limited swinging room. (Photo: Bahamas Ministry of Tourism)

They've become so popular that celebrities and other wealthy people have purchased entire islands or large portions of them. It's reported that the Exuma Land and Sea Park, once a stronghold of environmental protection, now features such private islands, and personal watercraft from mega yachts often roar up and down the pristine channels. Staged "paradise" picnics on the beaches, replete with instant tents, bars, and lounges, entertain charter parties with all their water toys. Anchorages once enjoyed by a few are now becoming more crowded.

Heading down the chain, cruisers like to stop and enjoy the out-island friendliness of the small villages of Staniel Cay, Black Point, and Little Farmer's Cay . Village restaurants sometimes announce special menus on the VHF. Small grocery stores have limited supplies, and Staniel Cay's Isles General Store has marine and general hardware as well as groceries. And the Blue Store and the Pink Store have also expanded their stock to accommodate the greater number of cruisers and vacationers.

The Staniel Cay Yacht Club offers good meals, fuel, water purified by reverse osmosis, and a nice bar as well as cottage rentals. Indeed, the entire village is open to many home rentals. Fowl Cay Resort is one of several resort islands with rental houses and cottages, and it also has a restaurant available to the public by reservation. Snorkel into Thunderball Cave off Staniel and enjoy viewing thousands of protected fish. Part of the James Bond movie of that name was filmed here.

At the southern end of the Exumas, the "mainland" island of Great Exuma is a popular boating destination with a good but busy harbor. Its George Town boasts supplies and high island civilization. Exuma Market provides dinghy docking, town water, and other services while across Lake Victoria, the well-stocked Shop-Rite is another good choice for stocking. FedEx, UPS, boat supplies, and many other helpful goods and services are available. Almost 400 cruising boats are often in its Elizabeth Harbour for the annual spring Cruising Regatta, a weeklong festival run by the cruising community in conjunction with the Bahamian community.

Heading easterly from the Exumas you'll find more islands and variety. To the north, Eleuthera is known for its oranges and pineapples. Cruisers often visit the busy village of Spanish Wells with its fishing fleet, marinas, marine railways, and supplies. Harbour Island, guarded by the treacherous reef known as Devil's Backbone, is also popular for its pink sand beaches, quaint pastel-color buildings, the historic village of Dunmore Town, marinas, fishing, and relatively upscale living. Royal Island with its enclosed harbor broods with thick foliage and the silent ruins of a large estate. Years ago, wooden sailing ships of the British Navy sought shelter here; today cruisers wait for passage to the Abacos.

Cat Island, south of Eleuthera, stretches 48 miles, offering few anchorages but high hills, farms, villages, and miles of cliff and beach. To the south of Cat lies Long Island, with dangerous reefs extending more than 3 miles off Cape Santa Maria at its northern end. Never more than 4 miles wide, it's 75 miles long and features rolling hills and cliffs, fertile soil, and farming. A popular destination is Salt Pond and Thompson Bay on the west side, from where cruisers can tour the island by car and stock up at a modern grocery. Avoid anchorages exposed to weather and seas.

Far to the south and east, the "far out islands" rise from the deep ocean floor, beyond the banks. You'll find isolated jewels such as Rum Cay and Conception Island. Sumner Point Marina at Rum Cay has been closed due to hurricane damage as of this writing. As you venture farther southeast, more spectacular little islands with limited protection beckon with even more remoteness. These include Samana Cay, where Christopher Columbus is said to have anchored; Crooked Island; Acklins Island; Great Inagua with its famous flamingo population; and Mayaguana — all beautiful islands off the beaten track.

The Jumentos chain arches 90 miles around the southeast boundary of the Great Bahama Banks and has become more popular in recent years for experienced cruisers looking to find pristine islands as they once were. Many of these islands have little all-weather protection, tricky shallows, and few replenishing and stocking opportunities, but make up for it in sweet solitude

You Can't Always Get What You Want

The Bahamas, with their overwhelming beauty and thousands of square miles of ocean wilderness, offer a wonderful boating escape from the massive infrastructure and dense civilization of the States. But what makes them compelling also makes them challenging for unprepared boaters. Go soon if you can, take good care, and tread lightly.

Bahamas Fun Facts

• The Bahamas has the clearest water in the world. Visibility while diving is often more than 200 feet!
• Fewer than 50 of the islands have a village or town.
• The Bahamas has the world's third-longest barrier reef.
• Dean's Blue Hole, west of Clarence Town, Long Island, at 663 feet, is one of the deepest blue holes in the world.
• The first place Christopher Columbus landed when he came to the new world in 1492, he named San Salvador in the Bahamas.
• The word "mainland" is used by those on small outlying islands (called the Out Islands) to describe the larger islands, such as New Providence, Grand Bahama, Great Abaco, and Great Exuma. The "Far-Out Islands" are those even farther away.
• The world's longest underwater cave system can be found in Lucayan National Park, Grand Bahama Island.
• Kalik (pronounced "click"), the beer of The Bahamas, is named after the kalikking sound of cowbells at Junkanoo, the island street parades held every December 26.
• There are only about 396,000 people in all the Bahamas, the majority on the island of New Providence where Nassau is located.
• The national sport of the Bahamas is sloop sailing.
• Bahamas comes from the Spanish baja mar, which translates to "shallow sea."

Photo: Bahamas Ministry of Tourism

Chartering & Fishing

Power, sail & crewed charters.

• The Moorings (Abacos)
• Navtours (Nassau, George Town, Staniel Cay)
• Sunsail (Abacos, Nassau)

Sportfishing

• Boaters arriving on their own boats congregate around the marinas in Bimini, Nassau, Chub Cay, Boat Harbor, Highbourne Cay, and others.
• Note that fishing here is split between distinctively different offshore fishing and flats fishing (for bonefish).
• To join a sportfishing charter, search the Internet for numerous listings.
• Consider checking out one of the many fishing tournaments, listed at Bahamas.com/fishing-tournaments-2017.

Photo: Mel Neale

Anchoring Notes

• Never anchor in reef or anywhere your anchor rode may get tangled in coral.
• Leave 360-degree swing room for other boats, the shore, and reefs. Boats swing differently depending on their windage, bottom configuration, eddies, and current.
• The best bottoms consist of deep, soft white sand. You'll see these from the bow of your boat. Don't be misled by bottoms of white rock, marl, or shallow white sand over rock.
• Anchoring in grass usually results in dragging when the wind increases and damaging fish habitat.
• Nylon line can be cut by small rocks or reef. Use as much chain as your boat can safely carry.
• Don't anchor on a lee shore (the shore toward which the wind is blowing). Learn and watch the weather; plan your anchorage for 24 hours. It's not unusual for Bahamian winds to shift over that time.
• What starts as a protected anchorage could become a risky lee shore.
• Study an accurate weather forecast every day, and plan overnight anchorages accordingly.

Weather Notes

• Obtain a detailed weather forecast every day. Heed it.
• Winter cold fronts are often preceded by strong southwesterly winds and come through as a strong, precipitous westerly, then nor'wester. Then winds often clock to a nor'easter and blow hard for days.
• "Squeeze plays" between large areas of high and large areas of low pressure may set up strong winds, usually from the east, for several days.
• The Bahamas offers little good protection in hurricanes and tropical lows. Even enclosed harbors are vulnerable with so little land to weaken the effects of wind and sea. Expect little help compared to U.S. waters.

Respect The 'Rage'

If there is a strong onshore swell, many cuts between islands and reefs become treacherous. The onshore swell may be caused by local onshore winds or from a far-off storm. At sea the swell may seem insignificant, but as it mounts up in the shallow waters near the cuts, it can become deadly. These swells can be far away when you leave the safety of your harbor in the morning but dangerously upon you when you want to enter the next inlet down-island. Watch the weather locally and far out. Ask ahead for current local conditions and knowledge. If any question exists about the safety of an inlet, don't risk it.

Search And Rescue

The Bahamas government has no search-and-rescue service equivalent to the U.S. Coast Guard. The Bahamas Air Sea Rescue Association (BASRA) is a dedicated nonprofit voluntary organization committed to saving the lives of distressed seamen and airmen in the Bahamas. It is funded by donations.

For boaters traveling off the beaten track, consider renting an EPIRB or PLB from the BoatUS Foundation before you go. Visit BoatUS.org for more information.

What Are Your Special Interests?

Looking to hang out with other cruisers? Consider the Hub of the Abacos. Several islands encircle the protected "Sea of Abaco" in which you can go from town to town in protected waters without going out through the reefs into the ocean. Towns include Marsh Harbour, Hope Town, Man O'War. A short hop in calm weather in the ocean fetches up Green Turtle Cay, and a trip south inside will bring you to Little Harbour, home of Pete's Pub and Foundry. There are more marinas in this area than in most other areas of the Bahamas.

Elizabeth Harbour lies near the southeastern end of the Exuma chain and has become a Mecca for cruisers with its relative protection (albeit with some open fetches) and good holding. Its bustling village of George Town is a vacation spot and an oasis of out island "high civilization," which hasn't lost its out-island charm. "In season," from December through March, there can be as many as 400 boats there, with all the potlucks and beach volleyball games you could want. The reefs guarding the entrances can be tricky; good weather and careful navigation are a must. Don't enter with a strong onshore wind or swell.

Looking for sport fishing? Alice Town on North Bimini offers several marinas, bars, restaurants, and good fishing offshore, with several tournaments throughout the year. Chub Cay, scheduled to be fully operational (after the ravages of Hurricane Mathew) has a marina in a completely enclosed harbor with restaurant, bars for bragging, and Customs. Fish offshore in the Tongue of the Ocean between the Berrys, New Providence, and the Great Bahama Banks.

Looking for remote experiences? What used to be remote may be more visited today, although features such as poor holding, little protection from wind and surge, and few provisioning opportunities still keeps the crowds away. You'll find unspoiled beauty and solitude in the Jumentos, Rum Cay (marina may not be rebuilt yet), the shallow banks of the Berrys (where people often explore by dinghy), and Conception Island. These areas have scarce protection, and require serious weather vigilance.

Looking for good diving and snorkeling? The Bahamas has the world's third-longest barrier reef. Five percent of the world's coral can be found there. Bring a light wetsuit, snorkel, mask, and fins for great snorkeling by dinghy throughout The Bahamas.

Looking for a show? Held at the end of April every year, the Family Island Regatta in Elizabeth Harbour is huge. Bahamians come from all the islands to compete, usually in traditional Bahamian boats. Also, the New Year's Day Regatta at Staniel Cay in the Exumas is fun, informal, and rollicking.

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Technical Editor, BoatUS Magazine

One of the top technical experts in the marine industry, Tom Neale, BoatUS Magazine Technical Editor, has won nine first-place awards from Boating Writers International, and is author of the magazine’s popular "Ask The Experts" column. His depth of technical knowledge comes from living aboard various boats with his family for more than 30 years, cruising far and wide, and essentially learning how to install, fix, and rebuild every system onboard himself. A lawyer by training, for most of his career Tom has been an editor and columnist at national magazines such as Cruising World, PassageMaker, and Soundings. He wrote the acclaimed memoir All In The Same Boat (McGraw Hill), as well as Chesapeake Bay Cruising Guide, Vol. 1. These days, Tom and his wife Mel enjoy cruising their 2006 Camano 41 Chez Nous with their grandchildren.

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13 Best Cruising Sailboats in 2023 & Why They're Better

If you're interested in long-distance exploration at sea, cruising sailboats are a popular choice. The best cruising sailboats are designed to provide comfort, durability, and seaworthiness. From high-performance cruisers with heirloom-quality materials to versatile boats, there's something in this lineup for your skill level and preference. These boats have raised the bar and are set to provide memorable sailing experiences.

The best cruising sailboats are:

Beneteau Oceanis Yacht 54

Jeanneau sun odyssey 490, x-yachts x49, dufour grand large 460, hallberg-rassy 340, tartan 4300, island packet 420, fountaine pajot saona 47, lagoon 450f, bavaria cruiser 46.

One aspect that sets these sailboats apart is their focus on innovation and performance. Let's take a closer look at the 13 best cruising sailboats of 2023 and explore what makes them stand out from the rest.

• These cruising sailboats feature spacious interiors, sturdy hulls, and versatile sail configurations.
• These sailboats are equipped with navigation and communication systems, as well as additional features such as watermakers, generators, and refrigeration systems.
• You can buy these boats for anything between $250,000 and $1.4 million or more.
• A cruiser is a type of sailboat that is generally larger and more comfortable than a racing sailboat.

On this page:

Best cruising sailboats, why these sailboats are better, the most popular cruising sailboat.

In this section, we'll explore the 13 best cruising sailboats of 2023, highlighting their unique features and reasons why they stand out in the market.

Comfortable living space : A cruising sailboat should have a comfortable living space that can accommodate the crew for an extended period of time. This includes a spacious cabin, galley, head, and berths.

Seaworthiness : A cruising sailboat should be able to handle rough seas and adverse weather conditions. It should have a sturdy hull, a well-designed keel, and a balanced rigging system.

Sailing performance : A cruising sailboat should have good sailing performance, which includes speed, stability, and ease of handling. It should be able to sail efficiently in different wind conditions.

Safety features : A cruising sailboat should have safety features such as a reliable navigation system, adequate safety equipment, and a strong anchoring system.

Storage space : A cruising sailboat should have enough storage space for provisions, equipment, and personal belongings. This includes storage lockers, shelves, and compartments.

Energy efficiency : A cruising sailboat should have an energy-efficient system that can provide power for lighting, electronics, and other equipment without relying on shore power.

Durability : A cruising sailboat should be built to last and withstand the wear and tear of extended cruising. This includes using high-quality materials and construction techniques.

The Amel 50 is known for its luxurious and comfortable accommodations, and excellent seaworthiness. Its unique features include a spacious interior with modern design, an innovative cockpit layout, and a powerful yet easy-to-handle sailing system.

The Amel 50 has a unique feature called the "Amel Easy Docking" system, which allows for easy and precise maneuvering in tight spaces. It also has a unique "Amel Silent Block" system, which reduces noise and vibration for a more comfortable ride.

The Oyster 565 is known for its high-quality construction, attention to detail, and luxurious accommodations, as well as its excellent safety features. It provides you with exceptional performance and comfort. Its sleek hull design offers fast, stable sailing, while the spacious, high-quality interior ensures you'll enjoy your time onboard.

The Oyster 565 has a unique feature called the "Oyster Deck Saloon," which provides 360-degree views and adequate natural light in the living space. It also has a unique "Oyster DNA" system, which allows for customization of the boat to suit the owner's preferences.

With its cutting-edge design and performance, the Beneteau Oceanis Yacht 54 lets you sail in style. Its chined hull, twin rudders, and easy handling make it a pleasure to sail, while the spacious, modern interior ensures your comfort on longer voyages.

The Beneteau Oceanis Yacht 54 has a unique feature called the "Dock & Go" system, which allows for easy and precise maneuvering in tight spaces. It also has a unique "Beneteau Smart Sailing" system, which includes a suite of electronic and navigational tools for easy and safe sailing.

The Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 490 is known for its hard chine design, and excellent performance and stability. It offers innovative design and functionality. Its walk-around decks, unique cockpit layout, and high-quality interior make it ideal for cruising in comfort.

The Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 490 has a unique feature called the "Walk-Around Deck," which allows for easy and safe movement around the boat. It also has a unique "Jeanneau Sun Loft" system, which provides a flexible and customizable living space.

The X-Yachts X49 combines performance, luxury, and comfort. It is known for its high-performance hull design, excellent speed and stability. With its fast hull, advanced sailing systems, and plush interior, the X49 is perfect for both racing and cruising.

The X-Yachts X49 has a unique feature called the "X-Yachts Pure X" system, which includes a suite of performance-enhancing features such as a carbon fiber mast and boom, a racing-inspired sail plan, and a deep lead keel.

The Dufour Grand Large 460 provides you with both comfort and performance. It is known for its innovative design, featuring a self-tacking jib and retractable bow thruster for easy handling. Its spacious interior, ergonomic deck layout, and powerful sailing capabilities make it an excellent choice for long-distance cruising.

The Dufour Grand Large 460 has a unique feature called the "Dufour Easy" system, which includes a suite of tools for easy and safe sailing, such as a self-tacking jib and retractable bow thruster. It also has a unique "Dufour Grand Large Lounge" system, which provides a flexible and customizable living space.

Experience easy handling and modern style with the Hanse 458. It is known for its sleek and modern design, self-tacking jib, large swim platform. Its innovative self-tacking jib, efficient deck layout, and comfortable accommodation make it perfect for family cruising.

The Hanse 458 has a unique feature called the "Hanse Easy Sailing" system, which includes a suite of tools for easy and safe sailing, such as a self-tacking jib and retractable bow thruster. It also has a unique "Hanse Individual Cabin Concept" system, which allows for customization of the living space to suit the owner's preferences.

Known for its quality and craftsmanship, the Hallberg-Rassy 340 offers you comfort and performance in a compact package. It is known for its classic design, long waterline, spacious cockpit, and comfortable and practical accommodations. With its stable hull, efficient sailplan, and well-designed interior, it's ideal for long-range cruising on a smaller scale.

The Hallberg-Rassy 340 has a unique feature called the "Hallberg-Rassy Hardtop," which provides protection from the elements and a spacious cockpit area. It also has a unique "Hallberg-Rassy Quality Concept" system, which includes high-quality construction materials and techniques for durability and longevity.

The Tartan 4300 delivers a perfect balance of performance and comfort. It is known for its high-quality construction, cored hull and deck for added strength and durability. Its epoxy-infused hull provides lightweight strength, while the spacious, beautifully crafted interior ensures a luxurious cruising experience.

The Tartan 4300 has a unique feature called the "Tartan Infusion Molding Process," which allows for precise and consistent construction of the hull and deck for added strength and durability. It also has a unique "Tartan Smart Sailing" system, which includes a suite of electronic and navigational tools for easy and safe sailing.

For those who value comfort and classic design, the Island Packet 420 won't disappoint. It is known for its full keel design, excellent stability and seaworthiness. Its spacious, well-appointed interior and solid construction make it a reliable choice for long voyages.

The Island Packet 420 has a unique feature called the "Island Packet Full Foil Keel," which provides excellent stability and seaworthiness. It also has a unique "Island Packet Anchoring System," which includes a powerful windlass and a custom-designed anchor roller for easy and safe anchoring.

The Fountaine Pajot Saona 47 catamaran offers you the perfect combination of speed, stability, and space. Its sleek hulls and spacious, well-designed living areas make it an excellent choice for cruising with friends and family.

The Fountaine Pajot Saona 47 has a unique feature called the "Fountaine Pajot Helmsman's Position," which provides excellent visibility and control of the boat. It also has a unique "Fountaine Pajot Lounge Deck" system, which provides a spacious and comfortable living space.

Cruise in style on the Lagoon 450F, known for its spacious accommodations and excellent performance under sail. With its distinctive flybridge, comfortable cabins, and efficient sailing system, it's ideal for multi-day getaways.

The Lagoon 450F has a unique feature called the "Lagoon Flybridge," which provides excellent visibility and control of the boat. It also has a unique "Lagoon Spacious Cockpit" system, which provides a comfortable and practical living space.

The Bavaria Cruiser 46 is a versatile and stylish cruiser that offers excellent performance and comfort. It is known for its innovative design, featuring a drop-down transom for easy access to the water. Its user-friendly sailing systems, attractive interior, and practical deck layout make it an ideal choice for a wide range of cruising adventures.

The Bavaria Cruiser 46 has a unique feature called the "Bavaria Hybrid Propulsion System," which allows for energy-efficient sailing and propulsion. It also has a unique "Bavaria Smart Storage" system, which provides enough storage space for gear and supplies. Additionally, the Bavaria Cruiser 46 has a unique "Bavaria Vision" design concept, which includes a spacious and comfortable living space with plenty of natural light and ventilation.

Cruising Gear Essentials

Key features to look for

Versatile hull design.

This allows your sailboat to navigate in various conditions, making it ideal for long-distance cruising.

Efficient sail plan

By having a well-designed sail layout, your boat provides better control, handling, and propulsion.

High-quality construction

Top-quality materials and craftsmanship not only increase the boat's durability, but also enhance its performance.

Comfortable accommodations

When you spend extended periods at sea, you want your sailboat to feel like home, with adequate living space and modern amenities. For an extended sailing trip, you are going to need these 41 sailboat cruising essentials .

How they improve sailing experience

Easier boat handling.

Advanced rigging systems, self-tacking jibs, and other innovative technologies make it easier for you to manage your boat, allowing for more time spent enjoying the sea.

Increased safety

State-of-the-art navigation equipment and weather forecasting systems help you anticipate environmental changes, ensuring a safe voyage.

Sustainable power options

Many sailboats in 2023 come with solar panels, hydro generators, or hybrid propulsion options, reducing your environmental impact and providing more sustainable choices while out at sea.

Integrated connectivity

These boats boast digital systems that allow you to stay connected, monitor your journey, and update your friends and family with your adventures.

Their advantages over others

Better performance.

These boats have been designed with speed, stability, and maneuverability in mind, ensuring top-notch sailing experiences.

Longevity and value

Since they're built with high-quality materials and expert craftsmanship, these boats are certain to last, making them a wise investment.

Customization options

Many of these sailboats offer customizable features, allowing you to tailor the boat to your specific needs and preferences.

Award-winning designs

Several of these boats have received prestigious awards for their innovative features and performance, making them the ultimate cruising sailboats for any passionate sailor.

The Island Packet 420 and Lagoon 450F are the two most popular cruising sailboats known for their comfort, seaworthiness, and versatility.

The Island Packet 420 is a well-regarded cruising sailboat that has a loyal following. It is known for its spacious interior, comfortable accommodations, and good sailing performance.

The Island Packet 420 features a full keel and a cutter rig, which makes it a stable and seaworthy vessel that can handle a variety of weather conditions. The sailboat has a large master cabin, a well-equipped galley, and a comfortable salon area, making it a popular choice for those who enjoy extended periods of time at sea.

The Lagoon 450F is a popular choice for those who want to explore the world by boat. It is known for its spacious interior, stable platform, and good sailing performance.

The Lagoon 450F features a catamaran hull design, which provides a stable and comfortable platform that is ideal for long-distance cruising. The sailboat has a spacious cockpit, multiple sleeping quarters, and a well-equipped galley, making it a popular choice for those who want to travel with family or friends.

The best size cruising sailboat

The best size cruising sailboat is in the range of 40 to 50 feet. Sailboats in this size range are large enough to provide comfortable accommodations for an extended period of time at sea, yet small enough to be easily handled by a small crew or even single-handed.

Sailboats that are too small may lack the necessary amenities and space for long-distance cruising, while sailboats that are too large may be difficult to handle and require a larger crew. Ultimately, the best size cruising sailboat will depend on individual preferences, needs, and intended use, and it's important to consider factors such as comfort, safety, and ease of handling when choosing a cruising sailboat.

The safest cruising sailboat

Hallberg-Rassy 340, and Island Packet 420 are considered among the safest cruising sailboats. These sailboats are known for their sturdy construction, well-designed hulls, and reliable systems. They are also known for their ability to handle a variety of weather conditions and their comfortable accommodations. However, safety can also depend on the boat maintenance, and the skill and experience of the crew.

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