yacht hot water calorifier

• Practical Boat Owner
• Digital edition

How to fit a marine hot water system to your boat

• September 27, 2021

Rupert Holmes looks at how to retrofit a calorifier tank to the fresh-water side of your boat's cooling system.

Today most new yachts come with pressurised hot water, but that wasn’t the case 20 or 30 years ago. Many boat owners are happy to rough it with a kettle as their only source of hot water. Others value the convenience of harnessing ‘free’ excess heat from the engine to warm a tank of water.

These are the parts you will need in order to retrofit a marine hot water system to your boat.

Estimated equipment prices ■ Calorifier – from £350 ■ Immersion heater element – from £68 ■ Water pump – from £49 ■ Expansion tank – from £62 ■ Food quality hot water hose – £2.78/m ■ Sink basin and shower mixer tap – from £94

Typical systems have a calorifier tank in which the water is heated by the fresh water side of the engine’s cooling system. This circulates through a coil of pipework within the body of the calorifier.

In addition a 240V immersion heater, typically of around 1kW, can be fitted for use with shorepower when in a marina.

Electric immersion heater element.

“The best calorifiers are made of copper,” says Ashley Bradley of ASAP Supplies, who offer a wide range of products for water systems.

“They retain heat for up to 24 hours and have better antibacterial properties.”

How big is a boat calorifier?

A typical 30-litre calorifier tank.

Sizing a calorifier tank is not an exact science and Bradley says it’s often determined by the available space, but where possible he advises always opting for a larger unit.

As a rule of thumb, a 30lt model is likely to be fine for 3-5 minute showers for a couple of people.

The calorifier needs a pressurised supply from the main water tanks. A mixer valve is also fitted to regulate water temperature and prevent it coming out of the taps scalding hot.

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What about a PRV – Pressure Relief Valve?

Often there’s a choice of buying a complete unit, or assembling components yourself. ASAP’s universal mount calorifiers, for instance, are supplied with all the essential fittings including mixer valve, pressure relief valve (PRV), immersion heater element, plus 13mm and 16mm barbs for connecting pipework.

On the other hand fittings can also be supplied separately, allowing a lower pressure PRV to be used, or for connecting to different types and sizes of existing pipework.

Today’s pressurised water pumps have built-in pulsation dampeners that help prevent the pump cycling too frequently. It’s still good practice, however, to fit an accumulator that will further smooth out the flow, preventing unwanted power draw and noise. This should be sized to be as large as you can sensibly fit.

What about an expansion tank?

Hot water expansion tank.

Given that water expands when heated, an expansion tank needs to be fitted on the hot water side of the system to prevent a build up of pressure. Bradley says this must be at least 8% the volume of the calorifier.

When used in this way, as an expansion reservoir on the hot water side, the pressure must be set just above the maximum pressure of the pump, and just below that of the pressure relief valve.

The same product can also be used as an accumulator on the cold feed, when the pressure must be set just below the pump’s cut-in pressure – 12-13psi, for instance, for a typical pump that activates at 15psi.

Bradley says one of the most common problems boat owners encounter is the pressure relief valve spurting water. Usually the cause is a lack of an expansion tank, or the expansion tank pressure being set incorrectly. The pressure can be changed using a bicycle pump fitted with a pressure gauge. There’s a diaphragm inside the expansion tank that simply needs to be pumped up to the required pressure.

Food quality hot water hose.

Hoses need to be of food quality, rated for use from -5˚C to +60˚C and be coloured red to avoid confusion when making repairs at a later date.

It’s also worth investing in thermostatic valves as these make mixer taps or showers work pretty much as they would at home.

What size engine take-off so I need?

Bradley says it’s important to check the size of the fitting for the take-off and return points on the engine for the hot water feed that circulates through the calorifier.

“These are typically a 16mm barb fitting,” he says, “but it’s not guaranteed, so you need to check and measure it on your own engine. Adapters that will work with different size fittings are available.”

Long pipe runs need an adequate pump size, as do multiple outlets. A typical Jabsco Par Max 2.9 pump, which is rated at 11lt per minute, will feed up to four outlets.

Ideally it makes sense to mount the calorifier as close to the engine as possible, as this will minimise pressure loss due to friction and heat loss in a long pipe run.

A common failure point is the pressure switch within the pump. These tend to have a shorter service life than the pump itself, but are usually user replaceable.

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

How to install hot water onboard a yacht

• Toby Heppell
• May 5, 2023

Having hot water on board can make a long cruise a whole lot more pleasant. Duncan Kent explains how to install hot water onboard a yacht

Having pressurised hot water on your boat will make all the difference to comfortable living when on board. A hot shower at the start of the day can invigorate the crew for the day ahead, and washing dishes and clothes without boiling a kettle is so much easier.

To enjoy the luxury of hot water on your boat you will need both a pressurised freshwater system and a calorifier. Most modern production yachts come with at least a basic cold water system, incorporating a pump that activates by the drop in pressure when a tap is turned on. If yours doesn’t, then it’s a fairly simple and inexpensive modification to carry out. The hot water system then utilises the same pump and water supply, but is piped through a calorifier on its way to the hot tap.

The Calorifier

A calorifier is a heavily insulated copper or stainless steel water tank with an electric heating element, not unlike a domestic hot water tank. Copper tanks are marginally better than steel at retaining the heat and have excellent antibacterial properties.

The difference between a marine calorifier and a domestic tank is that it also contains a spiral copper tube through which water from the engine’s freshwater coolant pump is circulated. Some twin-coil calorifiers are also available for those who want to circulate hot water from both the propulsion engine and a diesel-fuelled, hot water heating system.

Hot and cold domestic water system, with a pump, calorifier, expansion tank, accumulator tank and multiple outlets

Electrical power

For running off electricity, a calorifier can either have a 220Vac element inside, for use when you’re on mains shore power, or a 12Vdc element to run off your domestic batteries. The latter will be much lower power (typically 300W), however, and will take a good deal longer to heat the water, but they are a great idea if you have excess solar power to use up during the summer months.

Some calorifiers use an inverter (DC to AC converter) to power the 220Vac element, but this merely adds increased inefficiency and consumes massive amounts (100A for every 1kW of heating element) of battery capacity. Though it is feasible, I would only suggest it to someone who has a lithium-ion domestic battery bank with oodles of solar power or a generator.

Brass screw connectors are required to connect to the calorifier, but otherwise plastic pipes with push-fit joints are more resistant to vibration and movement

Engine heating

Ideally, it requires an engine of 13hp (a two-cylinder diesel) or greater for a system to produce enough power for hot water without it having too detrimental an effect on the boat’s propulsion power. The motor will need to be run for around half an hour to make enough hot water for a shower or two, or an hour or so for all-day hot water.

The system requires feed and return pipes to be connected to the engine and uses the warm engine coolant to indirectly heat the fresh water contained in the tank. Although this method works best with indirect, heat exchanger-cooled engines, it will also work with a raw water-cooled engine, although less efficiently, and the resultant hot water will be at a slightly lower temperature. Raw-to-fresh water conversion kits are available for a wide range of engines, so now might be the time to upgrade.

Most indirect water-cooled marine diesels already provide attachment positions, which are usually blanked off if not connected. When required, these blanking plates are removed and replaced with spigots, to which heat-resistant, flexible hoses are connected between the engine and calorifier.

An expansion tank will prevent unnecessary activation of the pressure release valve

Regardless of the heating method employed, to avoid the risk of scalding, calorifiers have a thermostatic mixer valve on the fresh water exit pipe and a pressure relief valve (PRV) in case something goes wrong and the water boils. The former allows the water temperature to be set (within safe limits) by the user. The latter should be piped into the bilge to allow it to drain in an emergency.

Installing an expansion tank to the hot water pipe as it exits the calorifier will help relieve any excess pressure and can avoid the pressure relief valve from being activated unnecessarily. The tank should be sized to around 10% of the calorifier’s capacity and the pressure set to suit the system and occasionally maintained by connecting a bicycle pump to the valve on the tank.

Sizing up and saving water

Having a calorifier fitted effectively extends the capacity of your freshwater system, but the size of the calorifier tank you choose will be partly determined by the amount of space you have available. The most limiting factor will be the need for the calorifier to be installed with the engine water connectors below the level of the engine coolant header tank.

It is also better to mount the calorifier as close to the engine as possible, to reduce heat loss in the circulation pipes. This can often mean you have to settle for less hot water capacity than you would like, although by setting the temperature fairly high and mixing it with extra cold water will make it go further. For instance, a 15-litre calorifier can usually produce enough hot water for at least two showers plus general use like dishwashing during the day.

Clever planning can also make it go further, such as getting some of the crew to shower while you’re motoring into harbour or doing the dishes when the engine is on to charge the batteries.

When I’m off grid I don’t like wasting water waiting for the shower to heat up, so I keep a clean bucket nearby to run the shower into until it begins to warm up, using the water later for something else. Alternatively, you can put the plug in the sink if it’s nearby and run the shower into there until the hot water starts to come through.

Engine controls are to starboard, as is the deck shower

Installation

Although there are a few rectangular tanks available, most calorifiers tend to be cylindrical, which isn’t the best shape for squeezing into tight spots. They also have a correct orientation, so make sure you specify vertical or horizontal mounting.

The usual place to mount them is under a berth or the saloon seating. Wherever you choose it will need to be very firmly mounted using the supplied brackets as even a 15-litre model will be heavy when full, and will tear itself free in rough seas if it is poorly secured.

The favoured method of boat plumbing these days is to use plastic, push-fit piping and joints (like Hep2O or Speedfit), which are flexible enough to allow for some movement or vibration.

Under a berth or seating can be a good place to locate a bulky calorifier

The pipes and fittings are available from most plumbers’ merchants or DIY stores, although you may need to switch to copper screw-connectors when attaching to the tank. Take note of the inlet and outlet identification as the cold water inlet will usually incorporate a non-return valve to stop backflow of warm water and the outlet will usually have the mixer valve attached and already plumbed in.

The engine coolant hoses have to be graded as such and are usually made from canvas-reinforced rubber hose. They will get much hotter than the outlet pipes so need to be heat-resistant, pressure rated (usually 5 bar/70psi minimum) and unaffected by antifreeze in the coolant.

Try to install the calorifier as close to the engine as possible to save heat leakage from long pipes, which should ideally be insulated with foam tubing as in a domestic heating system.

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Water Heaters / Calorifiers

• CABIN & GALLEY
• Cabin & Water Heaters

Boat water heaters or calorifiers (as they are also known), provide hot water on board. They work as heater exchangers, deriving their heat source from the boat’s engine cooling system. All our calorifiers are fitted with 230v electric immersions heaters allowing you to continue to have hot water when the engine is off and you have a source of either shore power or battery power via an inverter.

Isotemp / Isotherm part of the Domestic Group, make this quality range of stainless steel, marine grade water heaters. All Isotemp water heaters feature a thermo mixing valve which protects against scalding water and helps maintain hot water efficiency and conservation. There are four models of calorifiers in this range - Isotemp SPA, Basic, Basic Slim and Slim Square all of high quality and well worth the investment. The salt water environment coupled with water and heat can be extremely corrosive. Failures and breakdowns can be costly and highly inconvenient when on a cruise, so we do recommend Isotemp as the best water heater or caloriifer range on the market.

So which model water heater should I choose?

This is our first choice for sizes up to 40L.  Most economical with all the performance of the other models.

Choose this for sizes above 40L , for spaces with more width and less length and for when you prefer a satin, stainless steel outer finish.

BASIC Slim SQUARE Slim 

Choose this for special locations and narrower spaces .

Use for either double heat source (i.e. twin engines) or double heat output (i.e. radiators & hot water).

Isotemp Water Heater - Slim 25L with Thermo Mixing Valve

Isotemp Water Heater - Slim 20L with Thermo Mixing Valve

Isotemp Water Heater - Slim 15L with Thermo Mixing Valve

Isotemp Water Heater - Square Slim 16L with Thermo Mixing Valve

Isotemp SPA Stainless Steel Water Heater - 40L with Thermo Mixing Valve

Isotemp SPA Stainless Steel Water Heater - 30L Thermo with Mixing Valve

Isotemp SPA Stainless Steel Water Heater - 25L with Thermo Mixing Valve

Isotemp SPA Stainless Steel Water Heater - 20L with Thermo Mixing Valve

Isotemp SPA Stainless Steel Water Heater - 15L with Thermo Mixing Valve

Isotemp Water Heater - Basic 24L with Thermo Mixing Valve

Isotemp Water Heater - Basic 30L with Thermo Mixing Valve

Isotemp Water Heater - Basic 40L with Thermo Mixing Valve

Isotemp Water Heater - Basic TWIN 40L with Double Coil & Mixer

Isotemp Water Heater - Basic 50L with Thermo Mixing Valve

Isotemp Water Heater - Basic 75L with Thermo Mixing Valve

Isotemp Water Heater - Basic TWIN 75L with Double Coil & Mixer

• Nautic House Marsh Rd Skibbereen Co. Cork Ireland P81 R230
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Sure-Cal hot water calorifier £238 10ltr Compact horizontal

While there are many manufacturers of immersion-style hot water tanks that have a 240V heating element, if you also want to have hot water at anchor or independent of shore power, then you’ll need to fit a calorifier – ie., a hot water tank with a coil for connecting it up to the engine’s cooling system, which will allow you to heat the water by running the engine for a short while.

Most modern engines allow you to take a hot water feed from them to a coil in a calorifier and connecting up is usually a fairly simple job.

If you do have shore power, then you can also opt for a calorifier with a thermostatically-controlled, electric immersion element, which will act just like a domestic hot water tank – automatically heating the water all the time you’re connected to shore power.

Surejust Isle of Wight-based manufacturer, Surejust, makes calorifiers for on board use whatever the size of craft and are particularly easy to install as they are supplied complete with a 240VAC heating element, a thermal mixer valve to ensure a safe temperature, a pressure release valve in case of emergencies, stainless steel brackets and push-fit spigots ready for instant connection to plastic plumbing.

We chose a 10lt horizontal-mount model from the SureCal Compact range, as we had restricted room beneath the cockpit sole and wanted to install the tank as close to engine level as possible (as recommended by the engine installers). As we were using Whale joints in our system a simple request on ordering meant the tank arrived pre-fitted for Whale push-fit connectors, making connecting up a doddle.

The SureCal calorifier is a pure copper tank, insulated with smooth-finish polyurethane foam. It comes fitted with an electric heating element (in our case 2kW) and an internal engine heated coil with two barbed brass connection spigots for connecting flexible hot water grade hoses to the engine. Our engine, a new freshwater-cooled Beta Marine diesel, has simple blanking plugs, which you undo to fit the optional hot water outlet and return pipes for the calorifier. Fitting the engine side takes a matter of minutes using the correct Beta-supplied spigots. As the water circulating in the calorifier coil is fresh engine cooling water, you will need to top up the header tank after installing. Provided the engine is then protected with antifreeze it will automatically protect the tank coil as well.

When fitting the electrical element you must ensure the circuit is protected with an appropriately rated RCD (Residual Current Device) to protect it in the event of a short circuit.

Horizontal or vertical? It doesn’t really matter whether you chose a vertical or horizontally mounted tank as a large number of different shapes and sizes of tank are available to suit different applications. You must, however, mount it as it was intended or the water won’t heat up properly. The reason for this is that many have their heating coils at the bottom of the tank, which is where they are most efficient (hot water rises and all that!). Most find horizontal tanks are more suitable for small/medium size cruising yachts, as they are easier to fit under berths, lockers and into other typically confined spaces. The dimensions of our Compact 10lt tank are 260mm diameter x 560mm long, including fittings. You’ll need to add a further 150-200mm in length if you have to bend the pipes through 90º though.

Thermostatic mixing Valves It is essential that the hot water coming out of the tap or shower head on board is at a safe temperature and the best way to ensure this is to fit a thermostatic mixing valve, which will supply a constant mix of hot and cold water to a pre-set temperature. On the SureCal this thermostat is supplied already fitted and is adjustable between 45ºC-65ºC. Clearly the mixed water temperature can never be hotter than that which is available from the calorifier at that time, but it ensures your shower water will remain at a constant, safe temperature regardless of any pressure fluctuations in the system.

Installation The unit was dead easy to install after we’d glassed in a plinth behind the engine on which to mount it. While it weighs 6kg and only takes 10lt of water, that’s still 16kg in total, so it needs a good solid base and chunky bolts to stop it ripping off its mounts when crashing into heavy seas.

Having the thermostatic mixer and pressure valves pre-fitted made fitting even easier. All that was needed was to fit a run-off pipe (for any hot water/steam that might be released from the PRV in an emergency) into a safe place – in our case the deep bilge sump. Boats with shallow bilges might prefer to vent the tank overboard through a skin fitting.

The Whale push-fit connectors for our cold in/hot out plastic pipes were fitted in seconds and the engine hoses in around half an hour. A non-return valve is also already fitted to the tank’s cold-water inlet to stop any back feeding of hot water into the cold side.

Test results Using the 2kW electric heating element only, the calorifier gave us hot water at 42ºC in just 15 minutes and at 63ºC (full working temp) in just 24 minutes. When running the engine to heat it, it takes longer – around 40-45 minutes to reach working temperature. A full tank, when mixed with cold water to working temperature, supplies around 20 litres of shower water at a pleasant temperature. The quantity available would obviously increase if the thermostat were lowered as more cold water is fed into the mixer valve.

The water remained at a usable temperature overnight (16 hours), but as it slowly cools the thermostatic valve starts to close, letting less cold water into the mix, so the hot water doesn’t last as long. DK

Options Capacities: 10, 15, 22, 30, 40, 55, 75 litres Electric elements: 1kW, 1.25kW, 1.5kW or 2kW Prices: £238-£547

• A good range of sizes and shapes available • Supplied with all the necessary fittings • Simple to install • Quick to heat up

WE DON’T LIKE

• Old boats like my Nic 32 will not have enough room to fit a larger tank!

VERDICT ★ ★ ★ ★ A compact and smart-looking tank that is really quick and easy to install thanks to it coming complete with all necessary mountings, valves and connectors. Contact: Surejust Ltd Tel: 01983 400464 Web: www.surejust.co.uk

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Calorifier Tanks

Accumulator Tanks | Bilge Pump Switches |  Bilge Pumps | Calorifiers (Water Heaters) |  Freshwater Pumps | Pump Spares |  Shower Pumps | Sinks, Taps & Showers  |  Wash Down Pumps | Water Tanks & Purification |

Calorifier tanks are otherwise known as a water heater for your boat. They offer you an efficient means of heating water on board for your water system allowing for hot water in taps and showers around the boat.

Calorifiers aren't a fired water heater, like a household boiler. The water in a calorifier tank is either heated indirectly by an external heat source such as your boat's engines, or they're heated directly electrically by a built in immersion heater.

Hot water calorifiers are well insulated with high-density polyurethane foam and can keep the stored hot water at a good temperature for up to 24 hours. So if you're looking to add domestic hot water to your water systems on board take a look at the water heater options we have available to you from 15 litre units up to 40 litres.

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• Boat Water Heater

Get Free Hot Water from a Boat Water Heater

A boat water heater can usually be retro-fitted without too much difficulty, as long as your boat has a freshwater cooled engine. This type of marine engine, unlike a raw seawater cooled engine, has a separate closed system with its own header tank, which is then cooled by a freshwater/seawater heat exchanger.

The other requirement is for a pressurised domestic water system. A manually pumped system, laudable though it is, just won't do - but it's usually a straight forward affair to convert it to a pressurised system.

On a boat thus equipped, you can get that rare commodity; something for nothing - and you should take advantage of it.

Any boat that uses its engine fairly regularly produces hot water as a by-product of the combustion process, and it's free. Once you've shelled out for the equipment that is - which in this case is a boat water heater known as a marine calorifier.

This device is effectively an insulated heat exchanger, which plumbed into the engine cooling water system will transfer heat from the engine into the domestic water supply.

A typical hot and cold domestic water installation is shown in the illustration below.

How a Boat Water Heater System Works

Artwork by Andrew Simpson

This system incorporates both a pump and an accumulator. Most water pressure pumps maintain steady pressure by cycling on and off, producing a pulsed delivery.

The accumulator tank, containing water and air - usually but not always separated by a diaphragm - absorbs this pulsation and provides steady flow. Some pump manufacturers now produce microprocessor-controlled variable-speed pumps which eliminate cycling and make the accumulator tank redundant.

The mixer valve operates thermostatically, introducing a metered amount of cold water into the outlet flow, thus maintaining regulated temperature and conserving hot water.

The pipework from the engine should be as short as possible to minimise heat loss, and should be installed lower than the level of the engines header tank.

Calorifiers are well insulated and will continue to provide warm water for an hour or two after the engine has been turned off, but if you haven't run the engine for a much longer period, turning on the hot tap won't produce the desired result.

Immersion-Type Water Heaters

Electric immersion heaters, much like the larger versions we're accustomed to at home, require AC power, so unless you've got a generator aboard their use is restricted to when you're alongside and hooked-up to an onshore supply.

Immersion heaters are often combined with a calorifier in a single unit.

The stainless steel Isotherm units shown here are the immersion/calorifier type and are equipped with a thermostat.

In immersion heater mode, they draw around 6.5A at 120V. 

Hot Water from the Sun!

Intended for campers, but perfect for sailors cruising in warm, sunny climes.

Cheap and effective - every cruising sailor should have a couple of these on board!

Gas Water Heaters

Bulkhead mounted gas water heaters like the one shown here are no longer popular on sailboats, many skippers believing that they're just too plain dangerous.

If you do decide to invest in one of these however, make absolutely sure that it has an automatic low gas pressure cut-off switch and a flame failure device fitted, and it's properly serviced and regularly maintained.

I used to have one on a previous boat - this one in fact, on my Nicholson 32 'Jalingo' and lived to tell the tale.

But would I have another? No, definitely not.

In fact I'm not even going to tempt you with an example.

My advice? Don't touch them, and if you've got one — get rid of it!

Other Plumbed-In Systems you may want to take a look at...

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Cox Engineering

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Calorifier installation

Hot water is pumped from the engine water jacket to a coil in the calorifier, then returned to the engine. Cold water from the boat’s fresh water supply is heated by the coil inside the calorifier for domestic use.  Directly-cooled (raw water cooled) or indirectly cooled (fresh water cooled) engines can be used in conjunction with a calorifier but in the case of directly cooled engines the installation usually requires additional equipment.

In cases where the calorifier is installed beneath the engine there may be a need for extra measures, such as a non-return valve or a hose loop below the base of the calorifier, to prevent loss of heat from the calorifier into the engine by convection.

Small, single-cylinder engines may not generate sufficient heat to run a calorifier. The result can be that the engine runs very cool, with detrimental effects on wear and fuel consumption.

Calorifiers are supplied in a variety of sizes from about 10 litres upwards. They come in various shapes and may be intended for vertical or horizontal mounting.

Directly cooled installations

This drawing shows a schematic for a raw-water cooled engine. Fitting the pump on the return side exposes it to lower temperatures.

Fitting a calorifier to a Bukh raw water-cooled engine.

The principle is that water is circulated between the block and the calorifier, not by breaking into the discharge from the block to the exhaust, which will be cool by virtue of the water that has bypassed the block. Temperatures out of the engine should be around 60 – 65 C, a little cooler than with an indirect cooled engine but plenty for a calorifier.

Equipment needed is the calorifier, hoses, and a circulation pump.  The pump to use was the Johnson C010P5-1, 12 Volt, 16mm ports, part number 10-35159-3 from Aquafax or T. Norris. This pump has now been uprated to a CM10 magnetically driven version, Johnson part number 10-24501-03. Note that although its duty is stated to be fresh water, it performs well and reliably with seawater. A useful alternative may be the heater pumps fitted to Mercedes and Jaguar cars, frequently for sale very cheaply in on-line auction sites.

Although the system described is fitted to the Bukh 20 it appears that other engine sizes are essentially identical. Note that the Bukh 10 is too small to run a large calorifier as coolant temperature will be lowered to an excessive extent.

Examine the engine’s starboard side.  There are two blanked off, screwed fittings in the water system, one on the underside of the manifold at the aft end and the other on the lower aft corner of the block.  These are the hot and cold regions, respectively.  Standard hose fittings can be screwed into these to replace the blanking plugs. Hot water is taken from the manifold, to the upper coil fitting on the calorifier, out of the lower fitting, to the suction of the pump, from the discharge nozzle and back to the cold fitting on the block.  The pump is wired to come on whenever the engine is running.

Filling the system is best done by back-filling against the water flow direction by removing the return hose from the block.  Put a transparent hose on the block and lift the other end up, then fill the calorifier coils from the discharge side with a funnel raised up a couple of feet above the engine.  Usually this fills everything by the time the transparent hose overflows, although there could be an air lock at the top of the block this does not seem to bother the calorifier.

In use, with a 25 litre calorifier, it takes about 15 minutes to get the water good and warm but a trace of heat, for testing purposes, is felt within a minute or so.  Effectiveness at tickover speed is poor but putting the drive in gear alongside a pontoon helps.  After 30 minutes or so the water should be hot enough that you cannot put your hand under the hot tap.

Ideally the calorifier should be about 1.5 metres from the engine. It will function at much greater distance, when effectiveness is governed by the system resistance and pump flow.

The flow given by the pump is considerable but if you experience problems be aware that the thermo-siphon, if connected the wrong way, is enough to stop it.

Non-return valves (NRV) and accumulators

It is common to include an accumulator teed into the fresh water pump supply to reduce cycling of the pump for minor tap openings or leaks. You would be advised to fit one if adding a calorifier to absorb the thermal expansion of the water. In this case the pump acts as a NRV for the system.

Adding a NRV on the hot water side before the calorifier prevents hot water from expanding back into the cold supply, which can be an irritating problem. But in this case the thermal expansion of the water cannot be accommodated by the accumulator near the pump, so you may need to fit a second one after the calorifier. Sometimes there is sufficient elasticity in the hot water hoses that it is not necessary, but if the blow-off pressure of the calorifier’s safety valve is close to the delivery pressure of the pump you may suffer constant dribbles of water from it.

Fitting a calorifier to an indirectly-cooled engine

In most cases the engine’s circulation pump will have sufficient flow to circulate coolant through the calorifier. A booster pump could be required if the calorifier is sited at some distance from the engine, for example more than five metres.

These drawings by Johnson Pumps show a typical layout for an indirectly-cooled engine.

Other calorifier issues

Office hours Monday to Thursday 9 am to 4pm | Call us on 02392 465607 | [email protected]

Calorifiers

Enameled ATI calorifiers DISCOUNTED 20%

What are calorifiers & how do they work

A Calorifier (or water heater) is an efficient method of heating water on your boat, as it utilises the surplus heat from your engine's cooling system .

As a secondary heat source, the calorifier is also fitted with a dual (220V or 110V) immersion heating element for when you're connected to the mains or a generator.

The blue calorifiers have enamelled steel interiors and are protected by a sacrificial anode which needs to be periodically checked. The silver colured units are exceptionally light in weight and have all-stainless interiors that don’t need anodes. Both are equally suited for use on sea-going yachts and inland watercraft and they can also be used for mobile home and domestic applications.

ATI is a long-established Italian manufacturer with an excellent reputation for build quality. Penguin is their UK distributor and we are proud to offer a comprehensive spares service.

BS.8012 ATI 80L stainless calorifier boat water heater 322mm Dia

BS.6012 ATI 60L stainless calorifier boat water heater 322mm Dia

BR6012 ATI 60L twin coil stainless calorifier boat water heater

BR4512 ATI 45L twin coil stainless calorifier boat water heater

BB.2012X ATI 20L stainless boat calorifier water heater box shape

BS.4512 ATI 45L stainless calorifier boat water heater 322mm Dia

BS.3012 ATI 30L stainless calorifier boat water heater 322mm Dia

BQ2012 ATI 20L enamel lined calorifier boat water heater box shape

BL4512 ATI 45L enamel lined calorifier boat water heater 390 mm Dia

BS.2212 ATI 22L stainless calorifier boat water heater 322mm Dia

BL3012 ATI 30L enamel lined calorifier boat water heater 390 mm Dia

BT4512 ATI 45L enamel lined calorifier boat water heater 320 mm Dia

Marine Hot Water Systems

Bca australia’s marine hot water systems.

Welcome to a world of comfort and convenience with our cutting-edge boat water heaters!

At BCA Australia, we understand that life on the water demands practical solutions without compromising on luxury. Our range of marine hot water systems are tailored for the everyday boat enthusiast, ensuring that you can enjoy hot water for showers, cooking, cleaning, and everything in between!

Engineered with reliability in mind, our boat hot water systems seamlessly integrate into your boat’s infrastructure, delivering a steady and efficient supply of hot water whenever you need it.

Whether you’re anchored in a serene cove, navigating open waters, or docked at a marina, our marine water heaters provide a touch of luxury that enhances your time on the water. When you purchase a marine hot water systems from BCA Australia, you’ll enjoy the benefits of:

An economical and efficient way to warm water

Easy installation as heaters don’t require pipes, home comforts to make long boat trips more enjoyable.

Whether you are planning an extended trip on the ocean, or are wanting to enjoy quiet afternoons fishing in the bay, you can’t afford to miss out on installing one of our safe and reliable boat hot water heaters.

Our Sigmar Marine Hot Water Systems

We stock two innovative boat hot water systems from Sigmar Marine, the “COMPACT” boat water heaters and the “INOX” boat water heaters.

Ranging from 20 to 80 litres, these boat hot water systems are attractively encased in a compact plastic shell and offer better technical characteristics, water tank insulation and resistance to corrosion. They are easy to install and quick to heat. The COMPACT hot water system and the INOX hot water systems offer the best cost for quality on the market today.

All Sigmar boat hot water heaters feature an engine heat exchanger which transfers heat waste from the engine to the water tank, saving on your electricity costs.

Sigmar Marine is a hot water system certified manufacturer and one of the top leading brands for marine hot water systems. We are certified Lloyds Register Quality Assurance ISO 9001 certified and carried all spares needed for the Sigmar boat hot water systems range. Contact us today if you need specific hot water system parts!

BOILER FRONT VIEW

Sigmar Marine Compact Boiler – 20L

Sigmar Marine Water Heater – 22L

30L Compact Sigmar Marine Water Heater

BOILER COMPACT – 40L

BOILER COMPACT INOX – 60L

INOX Compact 80L Water Heater

BOILER COMPACT - 20L

WIDTH: 366mm LENGTH: 430mm HEIGHT: 358mm Price: $1,437.00

BOILER COMPACT - 22L

WIDTH: 287mm LENGTH: 558mm HEIGHT: 297mm Price: $1,457.00

BOILER COMPACT – 30L

WIDTH: 366mm LENGTH: 540mm HEIGHT: 358mm Price: $1,699.00

BOILER COMPACT – 40L

WIDTH: 366mm LENGTH: 660mm HEIGHT: 358mm Price: $1,829.00

BOILER COMPACT INOX - 60L

WIDTH: 366mm LENGTH: 875mm HEIGHT: 358mm Price: $2,082.00

BOILER COMPINOX - 80L

WIDTH: 410mm LENGTH: 920mm HEIGHT: 401mm Price: $2,554.00

Materials: INOX AISI 316 Installation:  Vertical / horizontal deck and bulkhead. Insulation:  Polyurethane foam (max 50 mm. top part of water heater) Fittings Engine and Water:  ½ “ Gas BSP UNI ISO 228 Safety and Non Return Valve:  6 BAR ± 1 (87 psi) Heating Element:  Incoloy with AISI 316 1 ¼” fitting.

Advantages of Sigmar Marine Hot Water Systems:

• Occupy less space than equivalent boat water heaters with separate fastening brackets
• Greater strength of plastic to corrosion, breakage or damage
• Greater electric insulation of plastic
• Better thermal insulation: more insulation material covers the upper part of water heater where heat dissipation is normally greater thanks to inside tank’s dis-axial position in respect of outside casing
• Plastic casing itself dissipates less heat than other materials
• Greater security: casing houses five sturdy fixing points (rather than the four of traditional separate side mountings/brackets)
• Quicker and simpler installation: no separate side mountings or brackets that have to be dismantled / remounted and integrated bracket’s five fixing points are easily accessible from the sides or above
• Safer installation: no sharp edges or burrs
• Heat exchangers in stainless steel ensure that engine heat waste is transformed into hot water

Characteristics of Our Hot Water Tanks for Boats:

Sturdy plastic casing with integrated brackets, stainless steel aisi 316 inside tank, injected polyurethane foam, stainless steel aisi 316 heat exchanger, 800/1200w 220v (on request 110v) heating element, regulating thermostat with double safety, safety and non-return valve, universal mount (vertical and horizontal), thermostatic mixing valve kit available as an accessory, various models with different storage capacity are available, compact mounting positions.

Thermostatic Mixing Valve Kit

This kit permits the mixing valve to be easily mounted onto all sigmar compact., part no: 15003.

SIGMAR marine mixing valves function automatically. All you have to do is turn the knob in the desired direction in order to obtain a temperature between 38°C (100°F) and 65 °C (149°F) with a tolerance of ± 7°C (±44°F).

The reliability of the device is assured by its simple design and no need of auxiliary energy. A thermostatic bulb senses the temperature of the mixed water and maintains it by changing the amount of hot or cold water mixed. N.B. in order to obtain a correct mix, the pressures of the hot and cold water must be the more or less the same.

Water saving  : By regulating the water temperature at the heating source, a significant saving of water can be attained.

Safety  : Water temperature is preset and the chance of scalding is eliminated.

Temperature range : 38° – 65 °C ± 7 °C (100 °F – 149 °F ± 44 °F) Flow rate ?p 1 bar (14.5 Psi) (kv): 1.300 l/h (347 US gals/h)

Max. temperature: 110 °C (232 °F) Max. pressure : 10 bar (145 Psi)

Spare parts for Sigmar Compact Boat Hot Water Heaters

Heating elements: listed below.

Part No: 10012

Safety non return value

Part No: 10016

Monophase thermostat 220V/110V

Part No: 15003

Thermostatic mixing valve Kit Range 30C – 48C/86F-118F

Boat and Caravan Hot Water Tanks from BCA Australia

• Hot Water Tanks for Boats
• Hot Water Tanks for RVs
• COMPACT INOX and COMPACT Hot Water Boiler

BCA Marine & Leisure is proud to offer boat water heaters from Sigmar Marine. A Sigmar Marine water heater is a great option for boaters who want to enjoy hot water on their boat. These tanks are made of high-quality materials and can withstand the rigors of marine life. They are also very easy to install, making them a great choice for those who do not want to spend a lot of time on installation. A Sigmar Marine water heater is an excellent choice for boaters everywhere.

If you’re looking for reliable and high-quality  RV hot water systems , look no further. We offer a wide range of hot water tanks for RVs that are perfect for all types of caravans, from small to large. With a hot water tank from BCA Marine & Leisure, you’ll never have to worry about running out of hot water while on the road.

When purchasing marine hot water systems from us, you have several options in terms of size. A COMPACT Hot Water Boiler from Sigmar Marine is from our smaller capacity line. Ranging from 20 litres to 40 litres, a COMPACT Hot Water Boiler is perfect for when saving space is of the utmost importance. If you need hot water tank with a bit more capacity, we also carry COMPACT INOX Boilers from Sigmar Marine. These hot water tanks come in capacities of 60 litres and 80 litres. Whatever size hot water tank you need, we’ve got you covered.

If you are interested in learning more about our hot water tanks for RVs and boats, please get in touch with BCA Australia by calling  041 849 7029 , emailing  [email protected] , or by filling in our online form on the  contact page .

An Essential Part of Boating Life

They provide the necessary hot water for cooking, cleaning, and bathing. But any equipment that you install in a boat of caravan must be able to withstand the rigors of constant travel. All of the hot water tanks for boats and caravans we carry are extremely durable and can withstand the abuse that comes from the sea and the road.

When shopping BCA Marine & Leisure for marine hot water systems, you can rest assured that you will be purchasing the best quality and most reliable portable hot water system on the market. We understand that when you’re travelling, you need a hot water tank that is easy to use and reliable. That’s why we carry hot water systems that have been designed with simplicity in mind. Our tanks are easy to install and come with clear instructions so that you can get started using them right away. Our boat hot water systems also come in a variety of capacities, and we carry several different shapes and sizes of to fit your needs.

We’ll work with you to set you up with the perfect hot water system for your boat. Give us a call on  041 849 7029 , email us at  [email protected] , or contact us by filling in our online form on the  contact page . We are standing by and ready to help provide you with hot water for your boat.

Purchasing Tips for Boat Hot Water Tank Systems

It’s understandable if you don’t know where to start when shopping for a hot water tank for a boat or caravan. Here are a few things to keep in mind when shopping for a portable hot water tank:

How much hot water do you need? Is this hot water system meant to service a family, a couple, or a single person? Choose a hot water tank that has the capacity to meet your needs.

Even in the largest of caravans and boats, space saving is important. Make sure the hot water tank will fit in the space you have available.

Some hot water tanks come with features like temperature control and universal mounting. These features can help you save time, space and energy.

Frequently Asked Questions

The Marine hot water systems sold by BCA Australia are between 20 and 80 litres. The size of marine hot water system you require will depend on the size of your boat and available space.

Water heater manufacturers do need to be certified. Sigmar Marine is a certified water heater manufacturer, by Lloyds Register Quality Assurance ISO 9001 to produce boat hot water heaters that last.

Installing boat water heaters on a boat means you have hot water for showering and washing dishes. hot water systems for boats make your time onboard more comfortable as a result. Read our Marine Hot Water Heater Guide to learn more about hot water installations.

A marine installation enables you to heat water on board your boat. With our heater installations, you can take hot showers and wash dishes with hot water. To learn more, read our guide to Marine Hot Water Installation.

Don’t forget to get updated on our Shipping Policy & Prices!

Get in touch to learn more.

To learn more about any of the leisure accessories stocked by BCA Australia, you can get in touch by calling  0418 497 029  emailing  [email protected]  or by filling in the  online form and we’ll be in touch as soon as possible. Alternatively, browse our marine accessories shop and make a purchase online today!

Buy Marine Calorifiers for boats

Heat my boat stock the best priced marine calorifiers in the uk, free rapid delivery call now 0161 748 5662, shop calorifiers now.

Horizontal Twin Coil Marine Calorifier Hot Water Tank

Horizontal Single Coil Marine Calorifier Hot Water Tank

Twin Coil Marine Calorifier Hot Water Tank

Single Coil Marine Calorifier Hot Water Tank

Free rapid delivery on all our calorifiers, get in touch, call 0161 748 5662, to order your new calorifier or if you have any questions about any of our products please to get in touch with our friendly team who are more than happy to help..

Heat My Boat are the UK’s leading supplier of Marine and Narrowboat Calorifiers (Hot water tanks).

We stock a range of Single Coil, Twin Coil, Upright and Horizontal calorifiers. We offer FREE UK next day delivery on our all calorifiers and all prices you see on our site include VAT.

Call us now on 0161 748 5662 if you have any questions or would like to place an order. We look forward to hearing from you.

5 Year Guarantee

All our marine boat calorifiers come with a 5 year manufacturers guarantee.

Free UK Next Day Delivery

We offer FREE UK next day delivery on all our Marine Calorifiers. If you have any special delivery requirements please call us on 0161 748 5662 and we can meet your needs.

Price Match

Heat My Boat will not be beaten on price for any of our products and offer to match any price you find elsewhere online. Call us now on 0161 748 5662 and prepared to be amazed by our price match guarantee!

Where to next?

• Installing a Boat Calorifier
• Marine Boat Calorifiers
• Single Coil Calorifiers
• Twin Coil Calorifiers

Product Categories

• Horizontal Single Coil
• Horizontal Twin Coil
• Single Coil
• Uncategorized

GET IN TOUCH

Call: 0161 748 5662

88 Woodsend Rd. Flixton, Manchester, M41 8GX.

EXPERT KNOWLEDGE

The team at Heat My Boat are a specialists in Marine & Narrowboat Heating systems.

© 2024 Heat My Boat. All Rights Reserved.

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A marine calorifier is a simple and efficient means of heating water in your domestic system, for use with showers, taps and the galley. Comparable to a domestic boiler, these calorifiers have an inlet for cold water, but then use a link from the engines closed cooling circuit to heat the inner coil and therefore the water. Calorifiers are often also called boat water heaters. The Surecal and Quick range of calorifiers are also supplied with an immersion heater with a built in thermostat, meaning they can provide you with free hot water while motoring or charging the batteries. The calorifier heats quickly as the drop coil technology ensures quick transfer of hear from the coil to the water. The outside of the calorifier is insulated in a polyurethane jacket designed to retain heat for up to 24 hours after the engine is switched off. Each calorifier is rigorously tested to ensure excellent quality and reliability. Water stored in the boat's calorifier reaches the same temperature as the engine, generally about 85°C. When hot water is needed, the calorifier uses a thermostatic mixing valve to combine this water with cold water to give the required water temperature. Quick and Surecal calorifiers are available with capacities from 6 litres all the way up to 100 litres. We stock Surecal and Quick hot water calorifiers with single coil or twin coil options, which are available from stock with horizontal or vertical mounting options.

A marine calorifier is a simple and efficient means of heating water in your domestic system, for use with showers, taps and the galley. Comparable to a domestic boiler, these calorifiers have an inlet for cold water, but then use a link from the engines closed cooling circuit to heat the inner coil and therefore the water. Calorifiers are often also called boat water heaters. The Surecal and Quick...

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Quick Nautic Calorifiers

£  479.95 - £  599.95

• Description
• Availability

Quick Nautic Calorifiers Water heater:

• Produces hot water from the electric element, which is fitted with an adjustable safety bi-thermostat
• Heat exchanger with wide exchange surface
• High quality materials
• Relief / non-return valve that allows discharging of the water heater in case of disuse
• All are 1200w (except where specified)

The features:

• The heat exchanger used for Quick “Nautic Boiler B3 is AISI 316L stainless steel. The heat exchang capacity is notably higher than that achieved from other manufactures.
• The tank is made of 1.5 mm gauge AISI 316 stainless steel welded with Argon shielding gas and hence highly resistant to corrosive agents.
• The electrical heating element is made of Incoloy®.
• The thermal insulation is high density polyurethane foam injected between the cover and tank giving excellent heat retention properties.

Fittings are 1/2″

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• Search forums
• Practical Boat Owner's Reader to Reader

What Size Calorifier to fit

• Thread starter mattnj
• Start date 26 Aug 2014
• 26 Aug 2014

Well-known member

Hi, Proud new owners of a 1979 Moody 36 CC Mk1....Staring on a refit over the winter, one of the first jobs is install a calorifier so I can wash my hands whilst doing the million other jobs! Can someone advise me on what size tank to get for a 36, and if there is any good info available on taking a hot water feed off the Thornycroft T90 engine. The original layout was a gas water heater which is already in the bin. Thanks  

The size is largely dependent on how much space you have to fit it. Typically a practical capacity is between 20-30 litres. You need to get measurements of different shapes and sizes to see where you can fit it.  

There is loads of room, so I should be ok with anything I fancy within reason....I was considering larger size = slow recovery time so what was the "normal" for a 6 berth cruiser? I see they all have TMV's now so that must help the useable volume.  

Active member

As hinted at above, fit the largest calorifier you have room for. You can never have too much hot water, and it's heated for free by waste engine heat anyway. You'll be forever grateful when you have friends aboard, or are staying in one isolated spot for a few days.  

Trundlebug said: As hinted at above, fit the largest calorifier you have room for. You can never have too much hot water, and it's heated for free by waste engine heat anyway. You'll be forever grateful when you have friends aboard, or are staying in one isolated spot for a few days. Click to expand...

Just wondering what capacity are your water tanks? Don't forget that your guests might consider the supply to be unlimited and empty your drinking water in a day! 20 litres would be a big chunk out of a refill in my tank and that's with an 80l tank - considered quite a good size on a 28 footer. I considered whether I had the space for a calorifier then realised I liked the idea of limiting each use to a single kettle of water. It becomes particularly significant if you're planning on using a shower... Rob.  

mattnj said: There is loads of room, so I should be ok with anything I fancy within reason....I was considering larger size = slow recovery time so what was the "normal" for a 6 berth cruiser? I see they all have TMV's now so that must help the useable volume. Click to expand...

Steve Clayton

mattnj said: ......if there is any good info available on taking a hot water feed off the Thornycroft T90 engine. Thanks Click to expand...

Shape may be critical - I had to go with a 22l one (with only a 100l tank) because the 15l model in my preferred range, though big enough in volume, was too long!  

There is much information about installing calorifiers on my website under 'Engine'. As a guideline, my Sadler 34 and an Oceanis 36 that we know had 25 litre calorifiers and both, for different reasons, have been reduced to 22 litres. That has always been enough for us although we don't shower aboard, using the stern platform instead. Until I installed a permanent shower there we used to use a litre plastic bottle with perforations in the lid, always enough.  

My recommendation would be a 20 to 25 litre fed through a thermostatic mixer valve, I have fitted a number of the 25 litre Quick square and 22 l Sigmar Compact, both are very easy to fit and well insulated, the thermostatic mixer valve on the supply will effectively increase the capacity as it takes less of the very hot water from the tank. That setup should prove more than adequate for a cruising yacht provided you don't have people queuing up for the shower. Edit with more info: I did a Thornycroft 90 last year, it was fitted with a bowman 180 heat exchanger, from memory I used a seaflow silicone hose that has a 13mm take off stub for the calorifier feed (it replaces the front hose), there is a blanking plug at the rear of the cylinder head, if you remove it you can fit a hose tail for the return.  

You need less size than you think, because the water in it (assuming a freshwater-cooled engine) will get very hot indeed so you don't need to add much of it to have a bowl of washing-up temperature water. On the other hand, the warm-up time is also not too much of a problem because the hot water rises to the top and this is where the takeoff pipe is. So you can start extracting hot water almost immediately, even if there's gallons of cold sitting underneath it. Pete  

Some great advice above, I would recommend Surejust on the Isle of Wight http://www.surecal.co.uk/Default.32839341 , great advice and products.  

prv said: You need less size than you think, because the water in it (assuming a freshwater-cooled engine) will get very hot indeed so you don't need to add much of it to have a bowl of washing-up temperature water. On the other hand, the warm-up time is also not too much of a problem because the hot water rises to the top and this is where the takeoff pipe is. So you can start extracting hot water almost immediately, even if there's gallons of cold sitting underneath it. Pete Click to expand...

• 27 Aug 2014

I fitted a 40l Surejust/Surecal on my M376. SWMBO likes to shower/wash hair daily (and if that's what keeps her sailing with me, I'm happy) Heating up from engine is surprisingly quick - 20 mins gives an amount of good hot water, longer running gets it very hot. Slightly slower to heat by immersion heater but do watch the size of heater element - 750w will be slow, 1.25KW will be quicker but only if you have a decent supply from ashore/generator.  

wiggy said: Some great advice above, I would recommend Surejust on the Isle of Wight http://www.surecal.co.uk/Default.32839341 , great advice and products. Click to expand...

When I fitted one in my 36 of asimilar vintage I got the parts for the engine from ASAP, a hose spigot which replaces a blank on the rear of the head and a replacement block to waterpump hose which has a T for a 1/2 inch hose. I fitted calorifier to the bulhead at the aft side of the starboard water tank under the cockpit locker floor with the expansion tank in thr locker itself. I also had to make up a new set of fresh water distribution manifolds under the galley to supply the cold feed and link into the hot tap supply which had been blanked off when the old gas heater had been removed. I think the tank was 25 litres but with the mixing valve set to about 45 degrees we never ran out of hot water.  

12 years ago I bought a 22L calorifier from http://www.penguineng.com/calorifiers.html Its plumbed into a Volvo 2030. Water stays hot enough to wash the breakfast pots and pans. We only use for hand washing and washing up. Not sure if 22L would be enough for showers ?  

duncan99210

We have a twenty litre Quick fitted. This heats up to engine temp in about 15 minutes. It provides enough for four folks to take showers with a bit left over for the washing up. I wouldn't fit a bigger one even if there was room as the present one makes a good compromise between volume and water usage; if it was any bigger, someone would decide they could have longer showers....  

KAL said: ++++1 for surecal/surejust. Brilliant product, brilliant service and much cheaper than swindleries. ... Click to expand...

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