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sailing yacht deck plan

  • Sailboat Deck Layouts

sailing yacht deck plan

I’m going to use the Outbound 46 as a base to write about optimal deck layouts for sailboats. Information that will help anyone to either select a good deck layout when buying a boat, or fix a screwed-up one on a boat they already have.

Good Deck Layouts Are Rare

That last sentence may surprise many since it would be logical to expect cruising sailboats to have good and functional deck layouts, but as an ex-sailmaker and longterm racer, the thing that never ceases to amaze me is that most boats, particularly those marketed as cruisers, come out of the yard with the rig and deck gear set up so poorly that actually sailing them is nothing but a huge chore, and it takes years for even a knowledgeable owner to sort things out—just read Colin’s trials and tribulations with the rig on his Ovni 435 to see what I mean.

This is so bad that I’m pretty sure that the popularity of in-mast and in-boom mainsail furling systems is in large part because most boats are so poorly set up for reefing that owners have been scared off simple and robust systems and toward complex, fragile, and expensive ones.

I will also write, once more, about speed. I know, we are cruisers, so why do we care? Well, up to you, but to me if we are going to really cruise under sail, rather than just motor around with an oversized flag pole and occasionally unroll a sail attached to it as we see so often these days, we might as well do it properly.

Seriously, a well set-up boat, efficiently reeling off the miles under wind power alone, is one of life’s sublime pleasures, and knowing that we can control the rig and shorten sail quickly and efficiently without automation or brute strength is the cherry on top.

Let’s look at how to do that:

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More Articles From Online Book: Sail Handling and Rigging Made Easy:

  • Six Reasons To Leave The Cockpit Often
  • Don’t Forget About The Sails
  • Your Mainsail Is Your Friend
  • Hoisting the Mainsail Made Easy—Simplicity in Action
  • Reefs: How Many and How Deep
  • Reefing Made Easy
  • Reefing From The Cockpit 2.0—Thinking Things Through
  • Reefing Questions and Answers
  • A Dangerous Myth about Reefing
  • Mainsail Handling Made Easy with Lazyjacks
  • Topping Lift Tips and a Hack
  • 12 Reasons The Cutter Is A Great Offshore Voyaging Rig
  • Cutter Rig—Should You Buy or Convert?
  • Cutter Rig—Optimizing and/or Converting
  • Cruising Rigs—Sloop, Cutter, or Solent?
  • The Case For Roller-Furling Headsails
  • UV Protection For Roller Furling Sails
  • In-Mast, In-Boom, or Slab Reefing—Convenience and Reliability
  • In-Mast, In-Boom, or Slab Reefing —Performance, Cost and Safety
  • The Case For Hank On Headsails
  • Making Life Easier—Roller Reefing/Furling
  • Making Life Easier—Storm Jib
  • Gennaker Furlers Come Of Age
  • Swept-Back Spreaders—We Just Don’t Get It!
  • Q&A: Staysail Stay: Roller Furling And Fixed Vs Hanks And Removable
  • Rigid Vangs
  • Rigging a Proper Preventer, Part 1
  • Rigging a Proper Preventer—Part 2
  • Amidships “Preventers”—A Bad Idea That Can Kill
  • Keeping The Boom Under Control—Boom Brakes
  • Downwind Sailing, Tips and Tricks
  • Downwind Sailing—Poling Out The Jib
  • Setting and Striking a Spinnaker Made Easy and Safe
  • Ten Tips To Fix Weather Helm
  • Running Rigging Recommendations—Part 1
  • Running Rigging Recommendations—Part 2
  • Two Dangerous Rigging Mistakes
  • Rig Tuning, Part 1—Preparation
  • Rig Tuning, Part 2—Understanding Rake and Bend
  • Rig Tuning, Part 3—6 Steps to a Great Tune
  • Rig Tuning, Part 4—Mast Blocking, Stay Tension, and Spreaders
  • Rig Tuning, Part 5—Sailing Tune
  • 12 Great Rigging Hacks
  • 9 Tips To Make Unstepping a Sailboat Mast Easier
  • Cruising Sailboat Spar Inspection
  • Cruising Sailboat Standing Rigging Inspection
  • Cruising Sailboat Running Rigging Inspection
  • Cruising Sailboat Rig Wiring and Lighting Inspection
  • Cruising Sailboat Roller Furler and Track Inspection
  • Download Cruising Sailboat Rig Checklist

Dick Stevenson

Hi John I could not agree with you more about how frequently boats with conventional mains are poorly set up for easy reefing and eventual dousing. It is another area where the maritime media/boatbuilders etc. have dropped the ball at educating owners how best to have their boat set up. Too many sailors (and their crew) get put off by a poor and difficult reefing set-up which likely means they have put off reefing and been over-canvased needlessly: always a lousy thing. Enough of that and they are buying a cabin in New Hampshire. I urge those looking at in-mast or in-boom furling to consider that reefing and dousing the main can be easy and fairly fast and with a minimum of effort on a boat that is well set up for it. I then enumerate the myriad down-sides of particularly, in-mast reefing/furling and the benefits of a conventionally rigged main. I am in no way a speed demon, but I like to sail and I like to sail well. You mention sublime pleasure in cranking out miles: my sublime pleasure often comes at watching superbly shaped sails at work; especially when in challenging weather, the third reef is in and working and that small sail is perfectly shaped to do its job and as bulletproof in functioning as can be devised. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

John Harries

I agree completely, particularly on the pleasure of looking at really good mainsail shape when reefed.

Rob Gill

Hi John, I totally get your “simplicity” approach and at mast mainsail handling preference. It just wouldn’t work for us and I suspect for many other cruising couples. I think I can see at least one hatch in the Outbound 46 hard-dodger top, which means adjusting the halyard / reefing lines and setting the mainsail / twist, should be simple enough from the cockpit, if (big “IF” I know) the reefing lines are well set-up. And I personally like this set-up for short-handing. Our safety process requires a second crew to be in support, if someone leaves the cockpit (day or night, coastal or offshore). I would guess we could reef / shakeout a reef on the Outbound 46, without calling the off-watch crew – a real-plus in our book as we mostly sail two-up. Our first mate would not cruise with me if I left the cockpit every time we needed to take a reef in rough conditions. It’s that simple. And if something happened to me, there is no way she would go forward to the mast and handle the sail on her own. Whereas she can, and does, reef single handedly on our boat, and I would guess she could on the Outbound 46 set-up, which is almost identical to our boat – the difference is we have in-boom furling which simplifies operations further. Likewise, the outbound 46 set-up would be easy and safe to hoist / lower / reef the mainsail when single-handing. I see so many single-handing yachts sailing just with their headsails, I suspect because on-mast mainsail handling leaves no one in the cockpit, if something happens. I often single hand our yacht with no loss of efficiency and really enjoy it. Br. Rob

I just can’t see that twisting ones head to look up out of a small hatch to see the mainsail while simultaneously grinding a winch and operating clutches is ever going to provide the visibility and situation awareness of looking directly at the part of the sail you are tensioning while standing at the mast while right next to the luff where any hang ups can be quickly seen and dealt with. So yes, for sail trim the hatches may help a bit, but not for reefing. Also at night on the Outbound a headlamp will reflect off the hatch glass making visibility of the main effectively zero.

I agree that being able to reef and shake out without calling the off watch is vital, but we do that fine at the mast too. Phyllis and I are also not fans of the idea of calling the off watch every time someone leaves the cockpit since we feel that the disruption of rest outweighs and added benefit of so doing.

I guess that relates to our basic thinking that the deck, particularly as far as the mast is not an intrinsically hazardous place to be avoided, but simply part of the working area of the boat, just as the cockpit is. We feel that regularly visiting the mast in all weathers is vital since it will be required anyway for functions like setting a proper preventer, setting the pole, and moving the runners forward, not to speak of clearing any kind of SNAFU.

We also differ in that we evaluated in boom furling/reefing and rejected it as too fragile, difficult to fix at sea, and expensive for our needs. That was based on experience in that the boat I did was on for six weeks as guide on a trip to Greenland had one.

So, in summary, I guess we just see things in a fundamentally different way.

Mark Wilson

Like you I mostly sail singlehanded or effectively singlehanded and I don’t really regard going forward in a rising wind as a pleasurable experience, especially in the dark. I’d like to add granny bars at the mast but worry that they would be extra deck clutter and spoil “the look”. But I’ve got to say I’m with John on this one. There’s quite enough string in the cockpit already without adding seven more bits. And, while in boom furling does look attractive, for me its too reminiscent of the appalling old rotating boom mainsail furling system I had on my first yacht, a Folkboat. The sail shape one got on that in any but perfect conditions was sad to see.

The sailor who puts in an early reef is a happy sailor. And probably longer living. How often is one surprised at the improved performance that results from under-pressing the rig ? And, while there is a lot that can lengthen the time at the mast putting in a reef, shaking an unnecessary one out really is a matter of seconds.

In defence of modern in boom furling, the set is way better than it was in the bad old days of roller reefing mainsails. That said, my big problem with them is complexity and fragility. Probably fine for inshore sailing where if they break you can just take the main down and head for somewhere to wait for parts and with smooth water where you can fix it, but I would never take one offshore, and particularly not to the high latitudes. All this based on taking a yacht to Greenland with one.

Lee Corwin

I own a Outbound 46 hull#50. Would add the following. The hydraulic backstay is quite helpful reefing the Genoa. Put tension on that stay and she rolls up more easily. Unless you tune the rig with more tension on the solent stay then the Genoa stay when the backstay is untensioned you get headstay sag on the solent. You lose nothing upwind using the solent instead of the Genoa going upwind so the need to roll up the Genoa before tacking is a non issue as it ends up being a reaching or running sail. We stand single watches. I love having both the primaries (powered) and the headsail reefing lines an arms length away from the wheel. I can reef under control, by myself with no engine nor AP. Then go forward and deal with reefing the main. I can do it under Hydrovane. Not needing to bring anybody up from below is wonderful. I hate single line reefing on any boat. It better than in boom or in mast but not by much. If done get a Dutchman as well. That makes it easier to inch the main down and have both ends of the sail tension correctly as you can see what’s going on and the sail has no choice but to fold correctly. Outbound come single for first two and double for the third. Would think to get just two very deep reefs and make both double. I have the survey being done on Tuesday. Then she’s gone as we transition to a Norhavn. The Outbound is the best mom and pop blue water cruising boat there is imho.

I too am not a fan of single line reefing so I think your recommendation to go with two deef reefs each with two separate reefing lines would be a good one.

Marc Dacey

That’s how we went, but then as a comparatively heavy motorsailer, we tend to leave the full main up a little longer than some just to make the boat go. We have separate reefing lines, as well and have all halyards and related lines at the mast. We have preventers, staysail sheets, yankee jib sheets and occasionally, spinnaker sheets back to the winches (three pairs) in the aft cockpit position, where there is also end-boom mainsheeting (6:1) and a strong Garhauer traveller (3:1). Works for us to date. I have over the years become a touch suspicious about “convenience” unless the sea first makes its case.

Martin Minshall

I agree was many of your points and know by your article I am not going to convince you, but we love being able to put in and take out reefs in from the cockpit. We can easily put a reef in or shake a reef out in less than a minute on our 37 foot cruising boat. I have read Colin’s article and I think a single line for each reef is way too much friction. We use a second line to pull the tack into the right position at the goose neck. These lines on our boat are only 5/16. Each one is led from the reefing hook, through the reef tack crinkle to a carefully placed bullseye on the mast, through a pulley at the mast base and then back to a harken cam cleat next to my jammers. You never need to put this on a winch – the idea is to get the bullseye position such that you end up with the reef crinkle pulled into the goose neck at just the right position when the halyard is re-tensioned. The clew end is conventional – from a bowline positioned about 6 inches aft of where you could stretch out the foot of the sail at the reef point up through the reef clew cringle to pulleys at each end of the boom through a good block at the base of the mast and then to a jammer and winch at the cockpit. When putting in a reef we pull down on the tack line while easing the halyard. Don’t allow slack in the halyard – the jammer is cast off but the halyard is restrained by hand with a single turn around the winch. 2 or 3 times we will pause in this operation by locking the halyard jammer and pulling the slack out of all the other tack and clew reefing lines by hand. We have found that this is the secret to being able to complete the whole operation from the cockpit since minimizing slack loops prevents them getting caught up anywhere. We continue until the halyard is just past a mark on the halyard line and then put the tack line in the cam cleat. At night we shine a flashlight on the tack to make sure it is neatly pulled into the gooseneck and then tension the halyard on the winch. Once again take the time to take all the slack out of the other reef lines by hand. Put the clew reefing line on a winch and crank until you are happy with the foot and leach tension – you need to check this with a flashlight at night.

Our reefs can be put in in way less time than it takes to write about it quickly and safely from the cockpit without even having to put your jacket on. Because we can put in or shake out reefs in the main easily we do not procrastinate for a moment about reducing or increasing mainsail. Our record is 11 changes in a single 3 hour shift as a series or 20 minute squalls rolled through at night close to the equator on a passage from San Francisco to the Marquesas and the lone watchkeeper was busier than a one armed paper hanger reacting as the wind went up and down from 8 to 30 knots!

Sounds like a good system. And I agree that taking the slack out of the non-loaded reefing lines as you reef is important. We do the same at the mast.

John Zeratsky

Really glad to see you giving the Outbound a thorough look, John!

Having cruised full-time aboard an Outbound 46 from 2017–2019 (we no longer own the boat), I can report that the main halyard and reefing setup works exceptionally well. The only annoyance was, as you pointed out, somewhat poor ergonomics crouching under the dodger (I’m 6’3″). The dodger hatches are perfectly positioned (like everything else on the Outbound) so you can actually see the main while hoisting, reefing, and trimming.

I saw your response to Rob about working at the mast. I agree that the side decks and mast are “part of the working area of the boat”. On balance, considering all the factors, reefing from the cockpit gave us (my wife and me) more flexibility and more peace-of-mind than reefing at the mast, which we did on our previous boat (a Sabre 38).

Aside: I also appreciated how cockpit reefing lowered the behavioral “friction” of making the decision to reef. Leaving the cockpit (with all associated precautions) just feels… harder than staying in the cockpit. Reducing sail at the right time is one of the most critical components of safe and comfortable cruising, and I was glad I never had to “think twice” because I didn’t want to deal with leaving the cockpit. Perhaps that’s irrational, but so are we all 🙂 I think of it as behavioral systems engineering.

Interesting point on “behavioural” friction. It’s not a problem we have ever suffered from, probably because I actually like “ deck sports ” and as a ex-racer and sailmaker I can’t stand being under or over canvased, but I can certainly see that it could be an issue, particularly for people who have been subjected to poor deck layouts and therefore regard reefing as a huge chore, no matter how they do it.

That said, I think that this “behavioural friction” is something we should all work on overcoming and not give into or modify our boats to pander to it. In my experience, not getting out on deck regularly can lead to all kinds of problems, particularly being lazy about rigging proper preventers and generally checking things over from bow to stern at least twice a day, more often in heavy weather.

Don’t get me wrong, if you find in cockpit reefing works for you, that’s fine, it’s your boat, but if that leads to rarely leaving the cockpit for other vital functions, then I think it’s a mistake.

Philip Wilkie

Perfect timing John.

After six weeks of hard work my right now my deck is a perfectly clear expanse of white. Almost literally a clean sheet of paper. (So far 60 litres of Jotun epoxies with another 16L of Hardtop AX to go.)

Up until this point I my general for the deck layout was heavily influenced by the majority opinion I kept encountering locally which was to run all the mainsail controls back to the cockpit. But because there is a major step in our coachroof which forces two 30 deg turns in all the lines, I was always a little apprehensive on friction. So after reading this article (and a similar one from Peter Smith) I’m inclined to follow your advice.

All my halyards can readily stay at the mast, but moving all the other mainsail lines, the reefs, topping lift, outhaul, cunningham and vang back to the mast creates quite a traffic jam around the base of the mast. Any hints on how best to organise particular brew of spaghetti?

The key to keeping that spaghetti organized is to keep all the reefing and outhaul lines on the boom, rather than lead them down to the deck. We have an article on that with photos here: https://www.morganscloud.com/2010/11/19/reefing-a-sailboat/

Note that since I wrote that, we changed from jammers to clutches.

The vang control is the exception to my rule, and should be lead aft to the cockpit. Or, on boats over about 30,000 lbs a hydraulic vang with control in the cockpit is a good solution.

Hi John and all, I was not going to wade in on this, but wish to underline a couple of points and make a suggestion. In my estimation, getting rid of friction is a safety issue and not merely convenience, in part because friction (among other things) causes skippers to hesitate doing the right thing. This is the case for a racing boat with strong crew, but far more the case for a cruising couple. Also, friction might mean that a job does not get done well: say a sloppy reef that hurts the sail and degrades sail shape and sailing efficiency. Finally, to often I suspect the push for electric winches etc. is a result of poor design and unnecessary friction in the system. An example is the retrofit of an electric main halyard winch before one installs slippery mainsail track (as well as adding low friction blocks that may be in the system). Getting rid of friction has a good start with slippery mainsail track and low friction blocks and wise design. Few boats are offshore ready as built/designed which is a shame as it is a subsequent expense in $$ and time that is not necessary. And we all like to think our boat is good-to-go from the get-go so it is hard to immediately replace new items. It would not be hard for manufacturers to get it right from the get-go at little additional expense. Slippery track allows one to raise the main almost the whole way from the mast if design allows for full body stretch to get your whole weight into play. This changes a few minutes winching “ordeal” into a few seconds exertion followed by a few turns by winch handle to tension: easily done whether at the mast or under the dodger. This is convenient and fast, but not necessarily a safety issue. The safety aspect comes when reefing is done easily and without hang-up, when reefing/dousing is accomplished going downwind in a breeze, and when dropping the main and it comes down like an express train. My boat came with in-cockpit reefing (1st 2 reefs with the third reef downhaul done at the mast) and we have made it work and like it: in part because either of us can quickly and efficiently do the first 2 reefs alone from the cockpit whereas going on deck at night in boisterous conditions, we wake the off-watch. (We do “deck tour” inspections at change of watch when both of us are awake and kitted up.) Reefing from the cockpit, for us, takes a good deal of prior preparation at the onset of the season: mainly ensuring that line markers are in the correct place on all reef lines and halyard for each reef. This gets us very close to a good reef, but sometimes takes a bit of fine-tuning as things settle down and stretch out as the sail fills. This is easily seen from the cockpit and is accomplished by tweaking the reef/halyard lines from the cockpit. As to the spaghetti that is so often mentioned as the major downside of in-cockpit reefing, our solution is to snake all “tails” down the companionway. This is only done when reefed down and accumulating lines. On Alchemy, this could be (when deeply reefed and using all lines for adjustment) up to nine lines: 2 reef downhauls, 3 reef outhauls, 1 halyard, 1 main sheet, and 2 traveler lines. (Sounds terrible, doesn’t it!) These tails then reside comfortably on our engine box ½ way down to the floor or, at times, on the floor next to the bottom step. Lines, stored in this manner, are always good to go without tangles or the need to uncoil and ensure they run free. The lines, being lead next to and held to the sides of the ladder, never interfere with safe access to the steps. There are times, of course, where we wish to close up and when that occurs, we can do so with the washboards in and the hatch mostly closed. Those fortunately rare times where we wish to be fully closed up, securing the tails in the cockpit so they are not in the way, but ready to be worked takes a bit of work, but is no big deal. I suspect not all companionway designs lend themselves to this solution, but it has worked a peach for us for decades, and may help with the “spaghetti” mess for some boats where cockpit reefing is chosen. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy Ps. It has not been mentioned, I believe, but I would guess that the size of one’s boat may play a part in the choice/comfort level of going on deck in boisterous conditions. Bigger boats are just a lot more stable and predictable in their motion, smaller boats livelier and quicker to react to a wave slap or wind burp.

I totally agree on adding a slippery mainsail luff track. Adding ours a few years after we bought the boat is definitely the change we have made with the largest benefit.

Great. I’ll implement that. I hadn’t thought of double ending the reefing lines so that you can work from both sides.

I’ve also had a good yarn with a local with a very similar boat and 30 years of continuous live on the boat experience. He made an interesting observation on the lines led aft vs at the mast debate; his decision point is ‘if you an offshore sailor then reef at the mast’. His reasoning is that the longer passage the more likely something will go wrong, the more important it is you are well accustomed to leaving the cockpit in adverse conditions. And that applies to the whole crew. At the same time he acknowledges there is no absolute answer, that like everything else the decision is a compromise, and others will lead the lines aft for reasons that work for them.

He backs this up with good lifelines and a solid mast pulpit. Both of which I’m going to implement as well as per your articles in the past.

Thats an interesting way to look at the decision. But the more I think about it the more I worry that the trend to aft lines combined with cockpit enclosures is producing a generation of sailors who regard the deck as a scary place to be avoided, which I think is a very worrying trend. I have an article brewing on that.

That said, I’m sure there are sailors who are comfortable on deck and have the lines lead aft, which is all good.

Point being that I’m pretty sure that not going out on deck regularly is actually more dangerous than doing so.

Hi John, You write: “Point being that I’m pretty sure that not going out on deck regularly is actually more dangerous…” Good point. Take, for example, the learning curve for working the boat with harnesses attached so as to not get tangled or so frustrated as to unclip. If this is not done with regularity, such as during regular deck tours, then it will be more difficult when it comes to needing to work the boat in boisterous conditions. Or using the deck tour time to find handholds when heeled over 15-20 degrees so that your hand knows instinctively where they are at night with spray in your face. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

Matt Marsh

The cockpit enclosures bother me. Particularly in our tight, high-traffic waters, I think they take away too much visibility and too much situational awareness. Three times out of four, if I have to take evasive action despite being the stand-on vessel, I’ll notice a full cockpit enclosure on the boat (power or sail) that didn’t see me.

We actually took our soft dodger down entirely last week and are finding that, in our local conditions (where waves do *not* break over the deck), the extra visibility is way more valuable than the shelter.

All lines led aft often makes for a real mess of spaghetti (read: tripping hazard) around the companionway. Trip-and-fall is, IMHO, likely a bigger risk than slipping overboard from the deck. I’m surprised by how many designers & builders think that a line just ends at the winch, and forget about the 50 feet hanging off beyond that. (It’s an issue at the mast, too; a lot of boats seem to have no good place to put coils of excess halyard, reefing line, etc. once the lines are tensioned.) I also see a lot of boats with no good places to clip a harness tether or rig a jackline, and am starting to think that this particular issue needs to be addressed at the “textbooks and engineering design standards” level.

I agree on the dangers of cockpit enclosures. The boat that nearly hit me last summer was being run from a totally buttoned up cockpit enclosure: https://www.morganscloud.com/2019/08/24/dont-alter-course-to-port/

That said, I think that cockpit enclosures can be used safely, like most things, as long as we keep them open when we should so we can see and hear.

Bottom line, buttoned up cockpit enclosures are just another manifestation of the fundamental problem: putting comfort ahead of safety.

P D Squire

I wonder if it’s partly related to the boat’s seakindliness. A large, long-for-its-displacement yacht like MC has a much gentler action at sea than a lightweight, beamy, modern, race-inspired, accomodation-maximised-for-LOA “cruiser.” Leaving the cockpit in a small light boat is a lot scarier than doing it on a large heavy one.

You might be right, but the Outbound 46 would not fall into that class.

Also, my thinking would be don’t own a boat, at least for offshore sailing, that scares you so much that you don’t want to leave the cockpit.

Ernest E Vogelsinger

Regarding backstay tensioners – I am pondering my head how to handle twin (not split) backstays. For split backstays you might use a tensioner car as you had linked to, but this will not be possible for twins. I notice that MC has twin backstays, how did you set it up to allow symmetric tensioning/slacking them?

The best solution is two hydraulic rams plumbed to the same pump. Set up this way, they automatically equalize tension between the two stays.

David Eberhard

John, thank you for teaching us North Americans a new phrase today “poor diddums”,I like that.

As a retired rigger, if is even possible to be one, I could not agree with you more on not leading everything back to the cockpit. Very expensive and all that hardware sends friction through the roof. Just leave it on the mast where it belongs. My customers would say, but it’s not safe to go out of the cockpit at night or when the wind starts kicking up. If it’s not safe to leave the cockpit, you need to make it safe to leave the cockpit. You need a good Jack line system such as the one you described. You need a good hand holds so no matter where you are on deck there is something to hold onto. Solid hand rails rather than stanchions and wire. Best if you don’t have to bend over to find them. Handrails that when you stick your hand out that’s where they are. At the very minimum some kind of a deck edge so you don’t go sliding off the deck, bulwarks are even better. Mast bars that allow you to wrap a leg around to free up both hands are a great addition.

When it comes to hoisting the mainsail, or reefing it. A low friction system is the only way to go.. Finally broke down put a Harken bat car system on including bearings on the intermediate slides. Easy to raise the main, very easy to reef. Does not matter what the wind direction it is when reefing. Mark the reef points on the halyard with whippings so that you can feel them in the dark. It’s always a chore when you drop the sail a lot farther than you needed to. Only to have to winch it back up when it’s full of wind.

The photo of the mast base turning blocks illustrates one of my little pet peeves. The shackles are not safety wired. After having the main sheet blocks, come adrift from the traveler one day, thankfully in light air. I safety wire every shackle not taken on and off on a regular basis. Including roller furling headsail shackles.

I could not agree more!

And I agree on shackles too. That said, for roller furlers and the like I have had good luck with the self locking shackles that have little flats on the non-threaded side of the pin hole that stop the pin backing out.

Hi David and John, And I have had good luck with a little dab of silicone on the threads. I don’t like sharp wire ends about near sails or where line can be dragged over them like at the base of the mast. It is arguable that my skill at tucking them out of trouble could use improvement. Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

Stanley White

Hello John! I have enjoyed reading your many articles over the past few years. This deck layout one is an excellent discussion and observations. I went through the same process several years ago before purchasing a new boat. I settled on an X-Yacht Xc38 with a John Mast. It has an outstanding deck layout whereby we sail short handed all the time and I have sailed in several long distance single handed races with some horrible weather. I have added inboard jacklines which increases safety when going to the mast (very infrequently) or the foredeck when hoisting the asymmetrical spinnaker or Code 0. I installed a rope clutch on the mast for single handed hoisting of the spinnaker and Code 0 sails. We did put an electric winch for the mainsail halyard! It is a well made offshore cruiser/racer.

Hi Stanley,

I have long been a fan of X-Yacht. Looks like a really fun boat.

Michael Albert

I do like lines and halyards at the mast for many reasons explained here. My vintage Tartan 40 has everything except jib halyard led to cockpit. A tides marine track allows me to hoist main to nearly masthead from cockpit. And better yet, a clam cleat installed on mast a few feet below the main halyard exit allows me to even more easily hoist main from the mast, place halyard in clam cleat, and then pull in slack and tension from cockpit. Clam cleat releases and stays well clear once line is led through sheaves. For my use this is enough of a “best of both worlds“ compromise that I won’t go through trouble of moving winches and lines. And I do like being able to drop main from behind dodger in a squall into the cradle cover. I recommend everyone with aft led main halyard at minimum install the clam cleat as it greatly improves ease of raising main particularly with lazy jacks.

Hi Michael,

That sounds like a good idea.

Eric Klem

The debate of cockpit versus mast based reefing is an interesting one.  In the compromises of boats, our boat came with everything done from the cockpit and it would be very difficult to retrofit to mast based reefing so I have never really considered it.  This works okay for us as the loads are relatively light due to being a smaller boat and we do not have a big enclosure so vision is not overly impaired (the boat came with a full cockpit enclosure that didn’t even feel safe for motoring so it has never been used).  Like Dick mentions above, we send reef line tails down the companionway in most conditions and it works well.  To me, the best part about this setup is that it is safe and easy to reef with a single person on deck when there are lobster pots around preventing long absences from the autopilot controls.  I suppose that you could get an autopilot remote and bring it to the mast but in the cockpit, it is easy to hit a course change on the autopilot in the middle of reefing.  One other thing that I like is that I can get the jib down (hank-on) into a position where it is secure enough for a little bit while steering simply using a downhaul that is led aft, this is super helpful coming into harbors.

If we had our boat setup as a primarily offshore boat, I suspect that I would prefer to do everything at the mast and of boats that I have sailed on, generally the ones done at the mast are better.  The issue with pot buoys would go away and the clutter in the cockpit would be a bigger deal.  Similarly, the position of the primaries may well be dictated by what the boat is being used for.  Offshore, most people don’t hand steer and there tend to be very few people on the boat making forward in the cockpit a good option.  Coastal, many more people will be hand steering and there are often people sitting in the way of winches that are further forward.  Our boat actually has the winches further forward and when sailing solo, I would strongly prefer having them aft.  It is especially the case when short tacking somewhere when I end up steering with 1 foot so that I can reach both the wheel and the winch, otherwise I would need to use the autopilot which is not my preference (I know that I am weird on this one, even offshore I hand-steer whenever we are sailing and there aren’t other things requiring attention, I suspect this comes from growing up on boats without windvanes or autopilots).

One thing I didn’t see discussed with lines led aft is what it does to winch ergonomics.  I find that I have no problem hand hauling up the main most of the way on up to mid 40’ers with lines led aft assuming that you can stand back behind the dodger and not be hunched over.  The problem comes once the winch gets involved.  The ergonomics under a dodger tend to be terrible and in many cases where the dodger was not part of the original design, you can’t even get a full rotation on the winch handle.  If you were able to raise the sail most of the way by hand, then this isn’t a huge deal.  After one of the discussions on this site in the last year, we procured a ratcheting winch handle and it makes this much better, thanks for pointing those out.  Where it gets really bad is sending someone up the mast.  I have sailed on boats where cranking a 125lb person to the top of the mast completely wears out a big grinder type due to the poor ergonomics.  On our own boat, if my wife is going up, I use the halyard winch as a turn of direction and crank her up with a primary.  If I am going up, jumaring is the name of the game provided that we are in a calm enough spot.  With halyards at the mast, I find all of this a ton easier.

And I agree with all of the other parts of the article too.

A good analysis, as usual. By the way, I did mention the problem of winch ergonomics in the post, although not as clearly as you did:

Worse still, on the Outbound we will be forced to bend down by the hard dodger—this is an ergonomic nightmare. The result of all this inefficiency is that the main must be ground most of the way up on a winch, which makes an electric halyard winch near-mandatory.

As to winch position, as you say it depends on how often you steer. That said the Outbound does not make sense to me since when steering the mainsheet is way too far to reach (under the dodger), and when not steering the jib winches are a ways from both the mainsheet and the dodger. To me an idea short handed set up is so that one can reach both main and jib sheet winches from whatever our preferred position is. Been thinking about this a lot for our next boat which we will be sailed inshore a lot, steering more, and quite often single handed.

Hi John, Sorry, I had missed that your statement included winch ergonomics the first time around.

If you are short tacking up a channel, then having the main winch less accessible is fine but for other changes, you are right that having the mainsheet nearby is helpful.  What we do which isn’t perfect is to play the traveler which I can control from behind the helm thanks to long tails but this requires a long traveler with low loads and even then, once you get to broad reaching, you need to use the sheet and you need to use the sheet if you want to change twist.  The other thing to keep in mind that I can think of is what you are doing during a chicken gybe where having a single person handling all sheets can sometimes be problematic.  On smaller boats, I often find myself standing at the wheel, mainsheet in hand with 1-2 turns on the winch.  Once you practice a bit, you can get really reliable at flicking a turn off from 10′ away provided there isn’t too much load on the line, putting another on is also doable but I find it sometimes takes multiple tries.

I could not agree more about having two sets of tracks for headsails. We have inboard and reaching tracks for our working jib, staysail and storm jib. The one thing that has always had me see the dollar’s flying off the sails was when changing from one track to the other or when adjusting our pin cars.

While building our steel boat, I really wanted to use the adjustable cars, but they were too expensive at the time. All of this while working full time and raising a family. Then there was the epiphany one day a month ago. I took a piece of 6mm spectra cored double braid 2 m long. Stripped off 60 cm of cover off. Spliced in a 6 cm eye in. Whip the other end and that’s all you need. To use, pass the eye around something good and strong that is within a short distance from the loaded car. Examples, stantions welded to the deck, perforated toe rails, other sheeting cars even if the are in use. Pass the end through the eye. Take the other end to the loaded sheet forward of the car and tie it to the sheet using a rolling hitch. Snug it up, ease the sheet to get the load off the car. Adjust the car, move from one track to another, whatever you need to do. Sheet her home. You might have a bit of leech flutter, but absolutely no flogging! It’s only been a few weeks since I put this together. And have found many uses well beyond my original application. To store it while keeping it handy. I fold it in half twice then luggage tag it to a cabin top handrail. Just makes you wonder sometimes why did it take me 18 years to figure something so simple and cost effective to make and use.

Good way to save the sails. As you say, flogging is terrible for them.

We used to do something very like it back in the day when changing headsails while racing. Called it a “changing sheet”.

George L

It seems to me that it is much more important how the lines are lead and how friction is minimized than whether the lines are lead aft. That means good hardware – blocks and sailtracks, and having only one 90 degree-bend at the mast-foot. A 30 or 45 degree redirection well executed doesn’t add that much friction. That also means avoiding single-line reefing and having a winch setup that is ergonomically sound.

TP 60ies that go around the world non-stop have everything led aft and it clearly works single-handed in very rough conditions. So do Class 40ies, though these “only” do 20 to 30 days non-stop. So do the (Volvo) Ocean race boats and the line-handling works like a charm (taking advantage of multi-person grinders, though).

Even so, I would go forward twice a day and check everything thoroughly, but I would do so during the day when I chose the time, not when I have to – possibly in the worst of times.

Benoit Phelan

Hi John, Great article as always.

Curious about your take on the mainsheet routing on certain Amel Ketches where the traveler is forward of the dodger and the sheet is run aft over the dodger and enclosure to the mizen mast. (links/image below)

Also, are the effects of a traveler greatly affected when raised? Say, if the Boreal in your example had a flat dodger with traveler or like the arch mounted traveler seen on certain Hunters.

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BhQCF6mH238/W_8EN5MTOPI/AAAAAAABZqw/KSNjlEqzaQUVeBfzAbHCsLkTBMn65-lIwCLcBGAs/s1600/2017.10%2BGrenade%2BMartinique%2B%25289%2529.JPG

https://itboat.com/uploads/ae64/f5e25fdb8353.jpg

Screen Shot 2022-08-24 at 11.41.59 AM.jpg

It seems a pity to have a nice safe traveler position like that and then lead the mainsheet in such a way as it can garrotte a crew member. If it were me designing the system I would go with a “German Mainsheet system” with the track where it is and the mainsheet double ended and lead back from blocks below the gooseneck to winches either side of the cockpit.

And yes, raising the mainsheet traveler closer to the boom enables windward sheeting with a shorter track.

Tyler Walkey

Hey John, New to AAC, loving it so far, trying to soak up as much as I can. I am looking to re-rig my 1980 Ingrid 38 ketch, following the simple is best approach you teach here. We are preparing to sail her from San Diego to Japan (where we live) across the south pacific. Do you know any good riggers in the Southern California area? Boat is in San Diego.

Steve HODGES

Early this year I did a major refit of my Islander 36 with the excellent support of the Ventura Harbor Boatyard. Work completed included a rebuilt mast step, new cap/intermediate shroud chain plates, and new standing rigging. The boatyard recommended a local rigger, Kim Weir, and I was extremely pleased with his work. Without hesitation, I recommend the services of VHBY and Kim Weir.

Thanks for coming up on that.

Sorry, I have never sailed on the west coast, so don’t have any experience with riggers there. That said, Brian Toss’s old shop is still in business run by guys Brian taught, so that might be an option, although a ways from you: http://briontoss.com

Also see Steve’s comment.

James Evans

No one has mentioned self-tacking jibs. Having owned two boats with them the thought of going back to winching every time you tack -particularly when singlehanded- fills me with horror. Huge genoas are, in any case, only a relic from ancient rating rules. Whether a jib boom ( particularly the internal boom as used on Freedom sloops) or jib traveller is used, short tacking becomes an effortless exercise. A small jib on a traveller can be trimmed more easily and efficiently than a Genoa. The mainsail is always the prime driver; the performance gain from oversized headsails is less than you think, and in these days of easily deployed offwind headsails is not a consideration off the wind.

I agree with most all you say, except I have never been a fan of jib booms, probably something to do with being naturally clumsy so I don’t need anything else to trip over on the foredeck!

Anyway, just loving sailing our J/109 with her big mainsail and blade jib.

On an otherwise good boat would you recommend moving the lines from the cockpit to the mast if you were going to have an e-wincher anyway, which would presumably overcome the extra friction while still giving the operator enough feel to know if something was going wrong?

Way too many variables to answer that: boat, usage, crew, how well the boat is set up with lines aft, and on it goes. That said, my 109 is lines aft and the wincher makes all the difference to practicality so I have no plans to change. That reminds me, I should do a tip on why.

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Oyster 565 Sailing Yacht Design and Layout

Oyster 565 Layout Design Configuration

The latest yacht in our G6 fleet, the sailing yacht design of the Oyster 565 is configurable to her owner’s needs and preferences. She has been designed for shorthanded family and couples sailing with safety and comfort in mind and is the perfect size to sail comfortably without professional crew.

This Oyster 565 is borne from 43 years of experience building over 120 Oyster 56 and Oyster 575 blue water sailing yachts. From long-distance liveaboard sailing to coastal family cruising, the Oyster 565 makes it all possible. What’s more, with contemporary interiors that can be modified to suit you, you’ll have your pick of joinery, leathers and fabrics to become your on-the-water home. Discover her possible configurations below.

OYSTER 565 EXTERIOR

We understand our owners’ visions to create to perfect yacht. That’s why the Oyster 565 can be built with a variety of different rig configurations and two possible deck plans.

A standard Oyster 565 sail plan for short-handed sailing includes in-mast furling and 105% blade headsail, allowing for easy manoeuvring and sail-handling wherever you are in the world, from relaxed cruising to a global circumnavigation, such as in the  Oyster World Rally .

There is also the option to configure the yacht with a ‘sports pack’ for performance cruising, optimising your Oyster 565 for fast long-distance cruising or sailing events such as the Oyster Regatta.

Keel Options

The Oyster 565’s twin rudder hull form can be combined with a supershoal centreboard for safe shallow-water sailing.

There is an also option for an extended transom which provides large and open aft-deck space for entertaining. This also creates greater storage space ideal for long-distance blue water sailing.

The sailing yacht design of the Oyster 565 can also be customised with a large hydraulic bathing platform, providing quick and easy access to the water when the yacht is at anchor.

OYSTER 565 INTERIOR

The Oyster 565 is available with two personalized layouts designed to suit your preferences tailored to your needs. Browse our typical sailing yacht design layouts below.

Layout 1 - Master Cabin Aft

Our traditional layout positions the master cabin aft, with the two guest cabins forward and a utility cabin which can be lengthened to include an additional berth.

In addition to the midship Seascape windows, which come as standard on all of our G6 range, you can choose to add Seascape windows into the master cabin.

Layout 2 - Master Cabin Forward

The Oyster 565 can be configured with the master cabin forward - a first in Oyster’s yacht design history. This format means the aft section can either stay as one large cabin or be adapted into two double cabins, depending on the number of guests you envisage to have on board with you.

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Explore the Oyster 565 in more detail on the  Oyster 565 model page . Download the brochure, or contact our expert new-build team to learn how she could be the perfect fit for your family.

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Heralding a new generation of Oysters, this 60 foot bluewater cruiser is a sailing yacht for all oceans. Practical and well-provisioned for long distance sailing or cruising in coastal waters.

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The much-anticipated Oyster 595 is well-proportioned and extremely versatile. Offering exciting, customised build options with no compromise, she is capable of great things.

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A versatile sub-70 foot sailboat offering the perfect balance of size and practicality. She can be sailed shorthanded effortlessly or take a full crew and up to eight friends and family.

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Windstar's Flagship Sailing Ship

On any day, our 342-guest flagship, Wind Surf , the world’s largest sailing ship, draws admiring glances as she glides majestically into port with her tall sails billowing. And her beauty is far more than skin deep. During their cruise, you will find the perfect setting for ‘making an entrance’ in the beautiful reception area – and, appropriately, that’s only the beginning.

When you return to your stateroom, the luxury gets personal. Windstar’s signature bowl of fresh fruit will still be waiting for you, along with rich tufted headboards, soft seascape colors, beautiful new upholstery, and fine count Egyptian cotton linens welcome you to an oasis of relaxing indulgence.

Wind Surf underwent a significant renovation of public spaces and suites, including an expanded lounge with new lights and sound for upcoming stage performances. Relax into the destinations you’re visiting at the new World Spa by Windstar , which will offer regional spa treatments, including massage styles like Swedish, Japanese Shiatsu and Hawaiian Lomi Lomi. An Officer’s Suite, which might be the only one of its kind, provides you with the chance to stay in the heart of the officer quarters tucked right behind the Bridge.

Everything about Wind Surf speaks of welcome. Come aboard and see it for yourself.

Windstar has always been known for our iconic sailing ships, and now we are embarking on a multi-year refresh of the Wind Class ships. The initiative, Setting Sails: A Wind Class Refresh , brings the tight-knit connection of the Windstar community to the forefront through the redesign of public spaces and staterooms. From a revamped lobby to a new pool and larger pool bar, new World Spa by Windstar to a redesigned lounge, this initiative also includes intricate details like new teak decks and décor for a timeless and welcoming experience. Wind Surf will complete her redesign in 2024 and 2026.

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Queen Size Bed with Luxurious Linens Waffle Weave Robe and Slippers TV with DVD Player Fully Stocked Mini Bar/Refrigerator Safe L'Occitane Bath Amenities Fresh Fruit Hair Dryers and 110/220 outlets Wi-Fi (internet cards can be purchased at reception) Bathroom with granite countertop and shower Granite vanity with magnifying mirror

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Margaritaville at Sea Islander Deck Plan

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Margaritaville at Sea Islander offers a completely new way to cruise into an Island State of Mind. Decked out in new and familiar bars and restaurants, our newest flagship offers exciting opportunities for dining and drinking. With innovations like the world’s only three-story poolside LandShark Bar and the Caribbean Amphibian Splash Pool and Water Slide, embarking on an Islander adventure is every bit about the journey as it is the destination. Start exploring Islander with our cruise deck plans.

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Your stateroom onboard the Margaritaville at Sea Islander is a private retreat packed with the best amenities for your journey to adventure. Relax and unwind with queen-sized beds, open seating areas, and in-room dining to fuel all your adventures.

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Viking Sea deck plans

Deck layouts, review of facilities, activities, amenities.

Viking Sea cruise ship

Viking Sea deck plan review at CruiseMapper provides newest cruise deck plans (2024-2025-2026 valid floor layouts of the vessel) extracted from the officially issued by Viking Ocean (Viking Cruises) deckplan pdf (printable version).

Each of the Viking Sea cruise ship deck plans are conveniently combined with a legend (showing cabin codes) and detailed review of all the deck's venues and passenger-accessible indoor and outdoor areas. A separate link provides an extensive information on Viking Sea staterooms (cabins and suites), including photos, cabin plans and amenities by room type and category.

MV Viking Sea (2016-built) is the 2nd in a 10-unit series of identical cruise ships built for Viking OCEAN between 2015-2027 ( fleet ). Vessel design was specifically developed for Viking's revolutionary "small ship travel" all-inclusive vacation concept that combines the "excursions-inclusive river cruising" experience with "affordable luxury" sea vacation product.

Viking Sea cruise ship deck plan shows a total of 464 staterooms for 928 passengers served by 470 crew/staff, 9 passenger decks, 2 swimming pools (one infinity pool, one with retractable roof), 2 Jacuzzi hot tubs, 6 elevators (2 of which are panoramic /with glass walls). This is an adults-only ship (min age requirement 16 yo) without dedicated kids facilities or programs.

On all Viking Sea decks with cabins, there is a launderette (free of charge passenger-use laundromats). These are self-service laundry rooms equipped with ironing boards, washers, and dryers. Detergent is provided (also complimentary).

Like its sisterships, Viking Sea offers an intimate boutique hotel-like feel with its signature decor (Scandinavian-themed), luxury fabrics, spacious lounges with classy leather furniture, gourmet cuisine, unique art collection. Unlike most new cruise ships, all Viking OCEAN boats lack Casino (gambling lounge and bar).

Viking OCEAN's vessels implement some of the industry's top maritime technologies. Among those are the energy-saving hybrid engines (diesel generators and gas turbines), optimized hulls and bulbous bows for max fuel efficiency. Viking OCEAN's ship design also features the common for the company's Longships/riverboats solar panels (installed on the Magradome pool cover) additionally minimizing the exhaust pollution.

Deck layouts

Deck 0 - a-embarkation-hospital-crew, deck 01 - lobby-spa, deck 02 - promenade-shops-restaurant, deck 03 - cabins, deck 04 - cabins, deck 05 - cabins, deck 06 - cabins-bridge, deck 07 - cabins-lido-pools, deck 08 - cabins-sundeck-lounge, deck 09 - sports.

Viking Sea deck plans are property of Viking Ocean (Viking Cruises) . All deck layouts are for informational purposes only and CruiseMapper is not responsible for their accuracy.

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Deck plan Harmony of the Seas

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sailing yacht deck plan

Evrima Deck Plans

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The marina terrace.

The Marina Terrace

Drinks and light bites served just steps above the Marina.

The Marina at night, with lounge chairs and stairs leading into the water.

The go-to spot while at anchor with sun loungers, water toys and seamless entry into the sea.

An outline of the ship beginning with the bow. Largely blank space indicating non-guest areas. At the stern, the marina beach area is indicated -- this is described on the Marina Terrace and Marina Beach section of this page.

The Living Room

The social gathering place features comfortable furnishings and a library. Transforms into a cocktail lounge with piano bar, and live music at night.

Two brown purses with sunglasses displayed in a store window.

The Boutique

Shop for leading labels with enticing options, and, in select ports, further enhanced by bespoke collaborations with local artists.

The Two-Story Loft Suite lower level.

The Two-Story Loft Suites

Suites 505 – 513; 515; 517; 519 (lower suite bedroom with window); total measures 611 SQ FT / 57 SQ M plus terrace 81 SQ FT / 7.5 SQ M.

Main Dining Experience

The Evrima Room

The spacious main restaurant offers a thoughtfully-designed balance of privacy and social connection with a menu of locally inspired creations changing daily.

The Living Room view of the bar and cafe.

The Living Room Café

The espresso counter serves freshly roasted coffees and pastries. Ready-made treats are also available for day trips and late nights.

An outline of deck four of the ship. A corridor is indicated with the lower half of loft suites. Occupying the middle of the deck is The Living Room, with cafe and boutique. The back third of the ship is main dining area.

The Pool House

From a leisurely breakfast for early risers to late-night dining, this casual eatery serves a variety of cuisines prepared à la minute.

The main pool and lounge chairs in the sun.

An infinity oasis of blue and two whirlpools are steps away from The Pool House.  In the evening, the perfect venue for deck parties and open-air movies.

The Two-Story Loft Suite upper level.

Suites 505 – 513; 515; 517; 519 (upper suite living area with terrace); total measures 611 SQ FT / 57 SQ M plus terrace 81 SQ FT / 7.5 SQ M.

The terrace suite.

The Terrace Mid Suites

Suites 518; 520 - 545; (538 and 541 wheelchair accessible); measures 300 SQ FT / 28 SQ M plus terrace 54 - 81 SQ FT / 5 - 7.5 SQ M.

The terrace suite.

The Terrace Suites

Suites 501 – 504; 514; 516; measures 300 SQ FT / 28 SQ M plus terrace 54 - 81 SQ FT / 5 - 7.5 SQ M.

This is the outline of deck 5 of the ship. A corridor runs through the front portion of the ship, with loft, terrace and terrace mid suites aligning both sides. The rear is largely terrace space, with the Marina Lounge & Bar and the pool at the stern.

Creative interpretations of Southeast Asian cuisine are paired with sophisticated, laidback luxury in this sleek, contemporary restaurant.

A bucket of champagne in a  Bar lounge room

This intimate cocktail lounge serves top labels from around the world, as well as premium Champagnes with caviar pairings.

Specialty restaurant on board The Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection.

Indulge in a specialty dining experience designed by Chef Sven Elverfeld of Aqua, the three Michelin-starred restaurant at The Ritz-Carlton®, Wolfsburg.

The Signature Suite

The Signature Mid Suites

Suites 624; 626; 627; 629; 634; (636 wheelchair accessible); 637; 639; measures 429 SQ FT / 40 SQ M plus terrace 81 - 118 SQ FT / 7.5 - 11 SQ M.

The Signature Suite

The Signature Suites

Suites 615 – 618; measures 429 SQ FT / 40 SQ M plus terrace 81 - 118 SQ FT / 7.5 - 11 SQ M.

The Terrace Suite

Suites 622; 625; 628; 630 – 633; 635; 638; 640 – 643; 645; measures 300 SQ FT / 28 SQ M plus terrace 54 - 81 SQ FT / 5 - 7.5 SQ M.

The Terrace Suite

Suites 601 – 614; 619 – 621; 623; measures 300 SQ FT / 28 SQ M plus terrace 54 - 81 SQ FT / 5 - 7.5 SQ M.

An outline of deck 6 of the ship. A corridor runs through the front portion of the ship, lined by terrace suites, signature suites, terrace mid suites and signature mid suites. The back third is terrace, location of S.E.A. and Talaat Nam venues.

The Owner's Suites

Suites 736; 737; measures 1091 SQ FT / 101 SQ M plus terrace 635 SQ FT / 59 SQ M.

The view suites.

The View Suites

Suites 732 & 733 measure 544 SQ FT / 51 SQ M plus terrace 108 SQ FT / 10 SQ M; Suites 734 & 735 measure 574 SQ FT / 53 SQ M plus terrace 129 SQ FT / 12 SQ M.

The grand suites.

The Grand Suites

Suites 701; 702; 711; 730; 731; measures 587 SQ FT / 55 SQ M plus terrace 108 - 118 SQ FT / 10 - 11 SQ M.

The Signature Suite

Suites 714 – 717; 724 - 727; measures 429 SQ FT / 40 SQ M plus terrace 81 - 118 SQ FT / 7.5 - 11 SQ M.

The Signature Suite

Suites 703 – 708; measures 429 SQ FT / 40 SQ M plus terrace 81 - 118 SQ FT / 7.5 - 11 SQ M.

The terrace suite.

Suites 712; 713; 718 – 723; 728; 729; measures 300 SQ FT / 28 SQ M plus terrace 54 - 81 SQ FT / 5 - 7.5 SQ M.

The terrace suite.

Suites 709 – 710; measures 300 SQ FT / 28 SQ M plus terrace 54 - 81 SQ FT / 5 - 7.5 SQ M.

An outline of deck 7. There is a corridor running the length of the ship featuring grand suites, terrace suites, signature suites (one is ADA accessible), 2 ADA accessible terrace suites, 4 view suites and 2 owners suites.

Come as you are, for lunch or a romantic dinner al fresco. The seafood bar features fresh local catches while prime cuts are prepared to order from the grill.

The grand suite.

Suites 805; 811 - 814; 819 - 822; measures 587 SQ FT / 55 SQ M plus terrace 108 - 118 SQ FT / 10 - 11 SQ M.

The signature suite.

Suite 802; measures 429 SQ FT / 40 SQ M plus terrace 81 - 118 SQ FT / 7.5 - 11 SQ M.

The terrace suite.

Suites 807 – 810; 815 – 818; 823 - 824; measures 300 SQ FT / 28 SQ M plus terrace 54 - 81 SQ FT / 5 - 7.5 SQ M.

The terrace suite.

Suites 801; 803; 804, 806; measures 300 SQ FT / 28 SQ M plus terrace 54 - 81 SQ FT / 5 - 7.5 SQ M.

Outline of deck 8. The bow is non guest space. A signature suite and 4 terrace suites, starboard grand suite and the port stairwell. 2 pairs terrace, 2 pairs grand suites, 2 pairs terrace suites, 2 pairs grand. 2 terrace suites, a Ritz Kids and a grill.

The Gym is home to a health and wellness program that integrates fitness and spa with lectures and nutrition and can be customized for each guest.

Woman getting a massage.

The Ritz-Carlton Spa®

A wide variety of locally inspired treatments are offered indoors or out. Plus a full-service Beauty Lounge, a Gentleman’s Grooming Salon, and more.

An outline of deck 9. In the forward is a large terrace, which the gym overlooks. Behind is the fitness center. Further aft is the spa, with treatment rooms, men's and women's changing rooms, salon, barber shop, medical center, non-guest space and terrace

The Humidor

An intimate lounge with premium cognacs and fine, hand-rolled cigars showcased in the state-of-the-art humidor.

Observation lounge looking out over the water.

The Observation Lounge

Top-deck views erase the borders between land and sea. Perfect for lounging, socializing, sunset cocktails and late-night dancing. 

The is an outline of deck 10. The observation lounge occupies the front half of this deck, overlooking a large terrace. The Humidor cigar lounge is located mid-ship. Non-guest spaces occupy the after quarter of the ship.

Watch CBS News

Massive Key Bridge span demolished from bow of Dali container ship: 'Important milestone'

By Adam Thompson , Mike Hellgren

Updated on: May 14, 2024 / 5:04 PM EDT / CBS Baltimore

BALTIMORE - The removal of a 4,000-ton piece of the Key Bridge collapse from the Dali cargo ship using explosives unfolded successfully Monday evening and is a critical piece of the recovery. 

It comes almost seven weeks since the disaster killed six construction workers, crippled the Port of Baltimore and cut access to the Beltway. 

We were live on @wjz as the Key Bridge explosive charges were detonated. The operation, we understand, was successful. #BREAKING pic.twitter.com/PEiApDIFlR — Mike Hellgren (@HellgrenWJZ) May 13, 2024

Video showed the steel pieces falling into the water. 

This explosion, which was initially supposed to take place over the weekend, took seconds and sounded like a quick fireworks show.

Unified Command maintains the plan to fully reopen the main channel in the Patapsco River and access to the Port of Baltimore by the end of May remains on track.

"Today we achieved an important milestone," said Lt. Gen. Scott Spellmon, from the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.

What happened?

Small explosive devices were placed throughout the span of the bridge and detonated them all within a few seconds.

Cuts were made in the steel where explosives were placed and then were covered with what looked like heavy-duty tape. 

The explosion sounded like fireworks and those within 2,000 yards were asked to wear hearing protection.

The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers called this process the "safest and swiftest" way to remove the thousands of tons of wreckage pinning the massive ship. 

The controlled detonation sent the truss into the Patapsco River in pieces. Officials shared an  animation of the process .

Through it all, more than 20 crew members remained onboard. 

"They're staying on board because they're part of the ship. They are necessary to keep the ship safe and operational," said Rear Admiral Shannon Gilreath, from the U.S. Coast Guard. 

Safety is top priority

Maryland Gov. Wes Moore spoke about the high-stakes operation—the many small explosives timed just right—to allow the tons of steel to fall away from the ship and into the Patapsco River. 

It had been delayed twice due to the weather. 

"Safety in this operation is our top priority. We've gotten to this mission without a single injury," Moore said. 

Getting Dali refloated

Colonel Estee Pinchasin, from the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, said the next step is to remove the Dali.

It will still take a couple of days to remove the ship and open the channel.

"Once the wreckage falls into the channel, we will have the vessel refloated," Pinchasin said. "Our salvors already have the equipment ready to retrieve the wreckage just as we have over the last seven weeks. They're going to have to either lift it with the grabber and remove it after cutting it down some more."

Body-worn camera footage shows response

Newly-obtained body-worn camera video from the Maryland Department of Natural Resources showed the initial response from police in the dark, debris-filled river after the bridge fell on March 26.

The video shows the dramatic response as officers traveled to the wreckage site by boat. One clip shows an officer approaching the Dali and speaking with the crew.

Message for bridge collapse victims

The governor had a message today for the families of the six victims who died . The final body was recovered last week. 

"I promised we would do everything in our power to bring your family members back, and I pray that the fulfillment of our word can bring you some peace," Gov. Wes Moore said. 

Law firms to assist potential lawsuits

Maryland's Attorney General assembled five law firms to assist in any potential litigation.

The Maryland Transportation Authority Board has approved a request for a "contingent fee contract" for a team of law firms that will work as the attorney general's assistant counsel to pursue litigation against the parties responsible for the Francis Scott Key Bridge Collapse. 

The contingent fee arrangement means that outside counsel will be paid for any damages recovered by the state. The request will now be submitted to the Board of Public Works (BPW) for approval at its meeting on Wednesday, May 15. 

"On behalf of the affected state agencies and the people of Maryland, we will pursue compensation from the responsible parties for the damages caused by the M/V Dali's allision with the Key Bridge," said Attorney General Brown. "To do that effectively, the OAG has assembled a team of law firms that has deep expertise in maritime disasters, tort litigation, insurance recovery, and dispute resolution." 

Those law firms include Kelley Drye & Warren, Liskow and Lewis, Partridge LLC, The Lanier Firm, and, serving as local counsel, the Maryland firm of Downs Ward Bender Herzog & Kintigh.

"Those who need to be held responsible for this tragedy will be held responsible. Lloyds of London indicated this is going to be the most expensive maritime tragedy in our history, and we are very confident that those who need to be held to account will be held to account, and they will be part of this rebuilding process," Moore said.

Adam Thompson is a Digital Content Producer for CBS Baltimore.

Featured Local Savings

More from cbs news.

Dramatic video shows why Dali's removal from Key Bridge collapse site has been pushed back

Royal Caribbean's Vision of the Seas will be first cruise to embark from Baltimore since Key Bridge collapse

Dali's four power failures remain focus of Key Bridge collapse investigation as NTSB chair testifies at congressional hearing

Maryland poised to sue over Key Bridge collapse, contracts five law firms

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TIARA II Yacht Layout & GA Plans

54.27m  /  178'1   alloy yachts   2004 / 2019.

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