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Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40

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A Week On The Wrist The Rolex Yachtmaster 40mm With Oysterflex Bracelet

For the first time, rolex is delivering a watch on a rubber strap – except in classic rolex fashion it's not a rubber strap at all. it's a beautifully over-engineered bracelet called the oysterflex..

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There is big news, and there is Rolex big news, and in some ways, ne'er the twain shall meet. At Baselworld this year, Rolex debuted a first for the company: the very first, ever, Rolex delivered on a rubber strap. Now, for most companies this would have little effect on watch enthusiasts other than to evoke (very) tepid interest at best, and boredom at worst – but this is not an ordinary rubber strap, this is an official, designed-and-tested-and-thoroughly-obsessed-over-by-Rolex rubber strap. And thereby hangs a tale.

The Yachtmaster, as we have mentioned in some of our previous coverage , occupies a somewhat particular place in Rolex’s lineup of sports watches; it shares water-resistance and a turning bezel with the Submariner (the latter is water resistant to 300 m while the Yachtmaster standard model is water resistant to 100 m). It is certainly not a tool watch; the Yachtmaster is offered in either platinum and steel, or gold and steel (that’s Rolesium and Rolesor, lest we forget) and is either quietly or unequivocally luxurious depending on what size and metal you go for (Rolex makes the Yachtmaster in both 35 mm and 40 mm sizes). 

The Yachtmaster’s history goes back to the first introduction of the watch in 1992, although the name, interestingly enough, appears on the dial of a prototype Yachtmaster Chronograph from the late 1960s (a watch so legendary I am actually forced to use the word; one of three known is in the collection of Mr. John Goldberger; we covered it – and a host of other remarkable ultra-rare watches from his collection – in a very memorable episode of Talking Watches ).

The term “Yachtmaster” is also, incidentally, used for a certificate of competency in yachting which is issued by the Royal Yachting Association, although we’re unaware of any specific association between the RYA and the Yachtmaster watch.

Now, this newest version of the Yachtmaster does take a few pages from the existing Yachtmaster playbook: 100-meter water resistance, a bidirectional turning bezel, and a dial and hands that echo the Submariner. There are also a couple of features that may make vintage Sub enthusiasts wonder if Rolex mightn’t have an exceedingly subtle sense of humor; the gilt coronet and “Rolex,” and the red lettering, both features which according to HODINKEE founder Ben Clymer would have, had they appeared on a Rolex dive watch, made it instantly the single most popular watch in the modern Rolex inventory. The case is rose gold – Rolex famously makes their own, called Everose, in their own foundry, with a bit of platinum mixed in to prevent discoloration – and the bezel, rather than being some other precious metal (as is the case in the “standard” Yachtmasters) is in black Cerachrom – a very technical-looking matte black that contrasts sharply with the gold case. Somehow, between the rose gold, the Cerachrom bezel, and the new Oysterflex bracelet this manages to be the most luxurious and at the same time most technical Yachtmaster yet (leaving aside the Yachtmaster II, which we recently reviewed right here , but that is a watch that marches to the beat of a different drummer entirely).

The two different versions of the Everose Yachtmaster (40 mm and 37 mm) sport different movements; the larger uses the caliber 3135 and the smaller, the newer 2236, which sports the “Syloxi” silicon balance spring (first used by Rolex in 2014).

The Oysterflex bracelet is, in a nutshell, quite a piece of work. One of the most endearing traits of Rolex as a company is that it tends to demonstrate what we can only describe as a laudable degree of corporate obsessive-compulsive disorder when it comes to research and development, and it does so, often, without making any sort of fanfare about it at all. In this case we do know a little bit about the Oysterflex, however – it is basically designed to have the hypoallergenic and comfort properties of a rubber strap and the durability and shape-retention properties of a bracelet. 

At the core of the Oysterflex bracelet are metal inserts made of titanium and nickel, which are used to affix the bracelet to the clasp and watch case; over those is a sheathing of “high-performance black elastomer.” “Elastomer” is a portmanteau word, formed from “elastic” and “polymer” and is a general term for natural and synthetic rubbers. In addition to the materials complexity of the Oysterflex bracelet, it is also shaped in a rather unusual fashion – there are ridges molded into the the wristward face of the bracelet, which are intended to allow the bracelet when worn to better approximate the natural curvature of the wrist.

They might look a bit odd but in practice, the design works out quite wonderfully; this is easily the most downright comfortable and organic-feeling rubber strap I have ever worn, and like the entire watch manages to be both extremely technical in feel, and very luxurious at the same time; I doubt whether any company has ever taken so much trouble over the design of a strap (for all that Rolex prefers the term “bracelet” in describing the Oysterflex, habit dies hard and you’ll probably find yourself calling it a strap, just as we did). On the wrist, the two stabilizing ridges do exactly what they are supposed to: keep the watch from shifting, as heavier watches on rubber straps are wont to do, without requiring you to have the strap uncomfortably tight. The Everose Oysterlock clasp does a superb job mechanically and also looks fabulous into the bargain; the quality of finish on the clasp and case may not seem terribly elaborate at first, but it is as technically flawless as anything I have ever seen at any price, on any watch.

What we have here, in other words, is a very Rolex interpretation of luxury. Yes, this is a gold watch, and a gold Rolex, and wearing a gold Rolex always carries with it, shall we say, certain semiotic complexities. However there is also another side to the watch, and to the Rolex approach to luxury in general: the taking of such pains to produce technical perfection that technical perfection becomes a luxury in itself.

The Everose Rolex Yachtmaster, in Rolex Everose, with Everose Oysterclasp and Oysterflex bracelet, as shown, $22,000 in 37 mm, and $24,950 in 40 mm. For more info, check out Rolex.com.

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HANDS-ON: Shades of grey – the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 with dark rhodium dial (ref. 116622)

This cool, calm and collected new Yacht-Master almost slipped past me. I was too busy falling in love (again) with the gold and chocolate Rolesor Yacht-Master, which was distracting me and dazzling my senses, but then out of the corner of my eye I spotted a flash of almost-iridescent blue, and my curiosity was piqued.

I’m so glad it was, because this steel and platinum Yacht-Master with its dark rhodium dial and blue highlights is an absolute stunner, even though it’s a much more restrained affair than its Everose-embellished siblings (in both Rolesor and Oysterflex variants). This is partly down to the dark dial, but it’s also the bi-directional platinum bezel, which might sound weird given the material, but with a predominantly sand-blasted finish, it’s actually far less in-your-face than ceramic. Not that it’s plain, by any stretch. The shimmering dial, polished bezel elements and centre bracelet links mean it pops where it counts, and the overall effect of metallic grey on metallic grey adds up to a truly luxurious watch on the wrist.

Then there’s the blue. It’s funny how that single line of text and sweeping second hand – a comparatively small amount of real estate – can have such massive impact on the general feel of the watch. This bright slash of colour adds energy to the Yacht-Master, once again proving Rolex’s mastery of the minuscule.

Aside from that, it’s business as usual. You have the 40mm case, rated to 100m, robust 3135 calibre, with 49 hours of power reserve, and parachrom hairspring, all backed by the Superlative Chronometre standard which guarantees -2/+2 seconds of accuracy per day, after casing.

Rolex has spoiled us for choice this year, with the attention-grabbing Daytona, the youthful Air-King and numerous two-tone options. But if you prefer your Rolex to be more stealth than statement, you can’t go wrong with this excellent new steel and platinum Yacht-Master 40.

Rolex Yacht-Master 40 with dark rhodium dial (ref. 116622) Australian pricing

Rolex Yacht-Master 40 in steel and platinum, reference 116622, $14,600.

Images by Jason Reekie. 

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Which Would You Choose? The Rolex Yacht-Master Everose 37mm vs 40mm

The Yacht-Master has been an unashamedly high-end variation on the Submariner theme ever since it launched back in 1992. Only available in the most precious of precious metals, including being the watch to introduce Rolex’s own steel and platinum alloy Rolesium to the world, it has always been aimed squarely at the luxuriously active lifestyle market.

So the release of the two Everose gold, black dial versions in 2015 raised some luxuriously active eyebrows. With nothing quite like it emerging from the Rolex lair before, the 40mm ref. 116655 and its smaller brother, the 37mm ref. 268655 played host to several pioneering features.

They became the first Yacht-Masters to sport matt black dials, a more restrained but still unmistakably masculine element which is echoed across onto the sandblasted bezels; again, the only time Cerachrom has been used in the series.

Housing two different calibers, the Cal. 3135 inside the 40mm version has been a staple of Rolex watches for nearly 30 years, but the 2236 that powers the 37mm is their first movement to contain a silicon composite, or Syloxi, hairspring. Found originally in the ladies Datejust Pearlmaster range, the smaller Yacht-Master became the first men’s watch with the movement.

But it’s the bracelet, the sophisticated black Oysterflex band , which marked the biggest departure from the norm. What could well be mistaken for a simple rubber strap actually keeps completely true to Rolex’s prevailing theory that anything worth engineering is worth over-engineering.

Inside is a thin titanium nickel alloy blade, overmoulded with a hypoallergenic elastomer. The result is a strap as durable as a metal bracelet and supple enough to conform to the natural shape of your wrist. Two longitudinal ridges underneath play the twin roles of cushioning the watch, preventing it from shifting around as you wear it, while also allowing fresh air to circulate between the strap and your skin to provide more comfort on warm days.

Secured with the same rock solid Oysterlock clasp you’d find on the brand’s metal bracelets, Rolex’s first foray into rubber straps is a typically striking one.

Overall, the dramatically different Yacht-Master duo has proved extremely popular. The unorthodox combination of Everose and black gives the watch an aura of coolness it hasn’t had before and has also made its way onto the latest generation of the watch world’s current hottest player, the Cosmograph Daytona.

In fact, there’s just one debating point that remains amongst the brand faithful. The Yacht-Master is the only sports watch in the range to be offered in a choice of sizes.

Let’s take a look at what that distinction means.

37mm versus 40mm

First off, let’s get the financials out of the way. There is understandably a price difference between the two, but it’s hardly what you’d call a gulf and won’t be a factor for the Yacht-Master’s target audience. Those with enough buying power to spend $22,000 on a watch are unlikely to suddenly balk at $25,000.

So the choice comes down to one of aesthetics. On its launch in 1992, the Yacht-Master was actually available in three different sizes—a 29mm ladies version, a mid-size 35mm and the full-scale 40mm. Today, there is no official ladies size, but the new 37mm watch is listed under both the men’s and women’s section on the Rolex website.

The main reason is obviously the current trend for women wearing larger watches, but another factor could be the use of Everose gold. The pinkish quality of the metal sees it blend in slightly with skin tones, making the watch appear smaller than it actually is.

However, out of the Yacht-Master range, the black dial and bezel variants are definitely the least showy, and the 37mm case is also a popular choice for men content to wear a very discreet watch; one that doesn’t need to shout, fits more comfortably under a shirt sleeve and benefits from a lighter overall weight.

As for the 40mm watch, what would have been considered exceptionally large a few decades ago, is now very much an average. With that Everose effect of wearing smaller than the actual size, even men with slender wrists who usually opt for more modest pieces have been deciding to wear the bigger of the two models.

For an added bonus, with the contemporary thinking of bigger equals better, 40mm Yacht-Masters are enjoying a healthier resale value on the pre-owned market, if you decide you want to sell it on at some point down the road.

Conclusion on the Everose Yacht-Master

So, 37mm or 40mm? There is, of course, no right or wrong answer. The only choice is which size is better for you.

Whichever you choose, what you’ll come away with is a very interesting chapter in Rolex’s long running story. The Swiss watchmaking colossus has a history of quietly releasing radically altered variants on some of their most timeless designs. The 116655 and 268655 appeared with very little fanfare and have gone on to become real favorites among the brand’s devotees.

Whether they will go on to become all-time classics, it’s too soon to call. But with just enough subtle nods to Rolex’s illustrious past, such as picking the Yacht-Master name out in red, harking back to the Double Red Sea-Dwellers of the sixties, and combining them with a host of never-before-seen features, I wouldn’t bet against it.

About Paul Altieri

Paul Altieri is a vintage and pre-owned Rolex specialist, entrepreneur, and the founder and CEO of BobsWatches.com. - the largest and most trusted name in luxury watches. He is widely considered a pioneer in the industry for bringing transparency and innovation to a once-considered stagnant industry. His experience spans over 35 years and he has been published in numerous publications including Forbes, The NY Times, WatchPro, and Fortune Magazine. Paul is committed to staying up-to-date with the latest research and developments in the watch industry and e-commerce, and regularly engages with other professionals in the industry. He is a member of the IWJG, the AWCI and a graduate of the GIA. Alongside running the premier retailer of pre-owned Rolex watches, Paul is a prominent Rolex watch collector himself amassing one of the largest private collections of rare timepieces. In an interview with the WSJ lifestyle/fashion editor Christina Binkley, Paul opened his vault to display his extensive collection of vintage Rolex Submariners and Daytonas. Paul Altieri is a trusted and recognized authority in the watch industry with a proven track record of expertise, professionalism, and commitment to excellence.

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Staying on course

The Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40 in Oystersteel and Everose gold with an Oyster bracelet.

Bidirectional rotatable bezel, timing the distance.

The Yacht-Master’s bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel is made entirely from precious metals or fitted with a Cerachrom insert in high-tech ceramic. The raised polished numerals and graduations stand out clearly against a matt, sand-blasted background.

This functional bezel – which allows the wearer to calculate, for example, the sailing time between two buoys – is also a key component in the model’s distinctive visual identity.

Chocolate Dial

Exceptional legibility.

Like all Rolex Professional watches, the Yacht-Master 40 offers exceptional legibility in all circumstances, and especially in the dark, thanks to its Chromalight display.

The broad hands and hour markers in simple shapes – triangles, circles, rectangles – are filled with a luminescent material emitting a long-lasting glow.

Everose Rolesor

A meeting of two metals.

Gold is coveted for its lustre and nobility. Steel reinforces strength and reliability. Together, they harmoniously combine the best of their properties.

A true Rolex signature, Rolesor has featured on Rolex models since the early 1930s, and was trademarked as a name in 1933. It is one of the prominent pillars of the Oyster collection.

The Oyster bracelet

Alchemy of form and function.

The Oyster bracelet is a perfect alchemy of form and function, aesthetics and technology, designed to be both robust and comfortable. It is equipped with an Oysterlock folding clasp, which prevents accidental opening and the Easylink comfort extension link, also exclusive to Rolex.

This ingenious system allows the wearer to increase the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm, providing additional comfort in any circumstance.

More Yacht-Master technical details

Reference   126621

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Oyster, 40 mm, Oystersteel and Everose gold

Oyster architecture

Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown

Everose Rolesor - combination of Oystersteel and Everose gold

Everose gold bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated with raised numerals

Winding crown

Screw-down, Triplock triple waterproofness system

Scratch-resistant sapphire, Cyclops lens over the date

Water resistance

Waterproof to 100 metres / 330 feet

Perpetual, mechanical, self-winding

3235, Manufacture Rolex

-2/+2 sec/day, after casing

Centre hour, minute and seconds hands. Instantaneous date with rapid setting. Stop-seconds for precise time setting

Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring. High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers

Bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor

Power reserve

Approximately 70 hours

Oyster, three-piece solid links

Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Easylink 5 mm comfort extension link

Highly legible Chromalight display with long-lasting blue luminescence

Certification

Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing)

Learn how to set the time and other functions of your Rolex watch by consulting our user guides.

Yacht-Master 40

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Time zone info for Elektrostal

• The time in Elektrostal is 8 hours ahead of the time in New York when New York is on standard time, and 7 hours ahead of the time in New York when New York is on daylight saving time.
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• The IANA time zone identifier for Elektrostal is Europe/Moscow.

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Sunrise, sunset, day length and solar time for elektrostal.

• Sunrise: 04:04AM
• Sunset: 08:41PM
• Day length: 16h 37m
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• The current local time in Elektrostal is 23 minutes ahead of apparent solar time.

Elektrostal on the map

• Location: Moscow Oblast, Russia
• Latitude: 55.79. Longitude: 38.46
• Population: 144,000

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Out of the Centre

Savvino-storozhevsky monastery and museum.

Zvenigorod's most famous sight is the Savvino-Storozhevsky Monastery, which was founded in 1398 by the monk Savva from the Troitse-Sergieva Lavra, at the invitation and with the support of Prince Yury Dmitrievich of Zvenigorod. Savva was later canonised as St Sabbas (Savva) of Storozhev. The monastery late flourished under the reign of Tsar Alexis, who chose the monastery as his family church and often went on pilgrimage there and made lots of donations to it. Most of the monastery’s buildings date from this time. The monastery is heavily fortified with thick walls and six towers, the most impressive of which is the Krasny Tower which also serves as the eastern entrance. The monastery was closed in 1918 and only reopened in 1995. In 1998 Patriarch Alexius II took part in a service to return the relics of St Sabbas to the monastery. Today the monastery has the status of a stauropegic monastery, which is second in status to a lavra. In addition to being a working monastery, it also holds the Zvenigorod Historical, Architectural and Art Museum.

Belfry and Neighbouring Churches

Located near the main entrance is the monastery's belfry which is perhaps the calling card of the monastery due to its uniqueness. It was built in the 1650s and the St Sergius of Radonezh’s Church was opened on the middle tier in the mid-17th century, although it was originally dedicated to the Trinity. The belfry's 35-tonne Great Bladgovestny Bell fell in 1941 and was only restored and returned in 2003. Attached to the belfry is a large refectory and the Transfiguration Church, both of which were built on the orders of Tsar Alexis in the 1650s.  

To the left of the belfry is another, smaller, refectory which is attached to the Trinity Gate-Church, which was also constructed in the 1650s on the orders of Tsar Alexis who made it his own family church. The church is elaborately decorated with colourful trims and underneath the archway is a beautiful 19th century fresco.

Nativity of Virgin Mary Cathedral

The Nativity of Virgin Mary Cathedral is the oldest building in the monastery and among the oldest buildings in the Moscow Region. It was built between 1404 and 1405 during the lifetime of St Sabbas and using the funds of Prince Yury of Zvenigorod. The white-stone cathedral is a standard four-pillar design with a single golden dome. After the death of St Sabbas he was interred in the cathedral and a new altar dedicated to him was added.

Under the reign of Tsar Alexis the cathedral was decorated with frescoes by Stepan Ryazanets, some of which remain today. Tsar Alexis also presented the cathedral with a five-tier iconostasis, the top row of icons have been preserved.

Tsaritsa's Chambers

The Nativity of Virgin Mary Cathedral is located between the Tsaritsa's Chambers of the left and the Palace of Tsar Alexis on the right. The Tsaritsa's Chambers were built in the mid-17th century for the wife of Tsar Alexey - Tsaritsa Maria Ilinichna Miloskavskaya. The design of the building is influenced by the ancient Russian architectural style. Is prettier than the Tsar's chambers opposite, being red in colour with elaborately decorated window frames and entrance.

At present the Tsaritsa's Chambers houses the Zvenigorod Historical, Architectural and Art Museum. Among its displays is an accurate recreation of the interior of a noble lady's chambers including furniture, decorations and a decorated tiled oven, and an exhibition on the history of Zvenigorod and the monastery.

Palace of Tsar Alexis

The Palace of Tsar Alexis was built in the 1650s and is now one of the best surviving examples of non-religious architecture of that era. It was built especially for Tsar Alexis who often visited the monastery on religious pilgrimages. Its most striking feature is its pretty row of nine chimney spouts which resemble towers.

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