pearson 25 sailboat review

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info on a 1984 25' Pearson Pearson Triton?

• Thread starter Darrell
• Start date Aug 13, 2006
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• Other Sailboats

I am having trouble finding any specs / reviews of the 25' 1984 Pearson Pearson Triton. Any info would be appreciated.Thanks,Darrell  

Pearson Triton Specs Darrell:Have you tried the link to Pearsoninfo.net ?  

thanks, but nothing there. yes, I have checked there. However the Triton model listed there, is the "original" Triton, and only applies to the years 1959 -1967. Unless I am not looking in the right place, I don't see any info there on a 25'Triton model, manufactured in 1984.  

Pearson Triton I have a 27 foot 1984 Pearson Triton. It has a Volvo Penta engine. After researching the history of my boat I found that the hull was copied by US Yatchs. Pearson normally uses Yanmar engines in their boats. This information came from a Pearson dealer.  

thanks for the info thanks for the info. This 25' model has an outboard motor, but I wasn't aware of the US Yacht connection. I wasn't sure why it was called a Pearson Pearson as well.  

Triton Yachts by pearson Please dont get the original pearson Triton designed by Carl Alberg and brought to the NewYork boat show in Jan 1959; with the Triton series of the mid 80`s. The original Triton 28'was Pearson`s first cruising boat had an atomic 4 inboard and marked the beginning for Pearson. The Triton series were built from molds purchased from US yachts in the mid 80`s.US yachts were the makers of Buccaneer sailboats. At the time Pearson apparently past its heyday didnt want to develop new designs on their own. For more info on the 80`s Triton series go to Dan Pfieffer`s Pearson 26 web site/Bob Fox 1975 P26w #76 Whitecap Marblehead MA  

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Responsive Pearson 25 Sailboat

(Not Available)

Make: Pearson Model: 25

LOA: 25 Beam: 8

LWL: 21.4 Draft: 4.3

Ballast: 1250 Lbs Displacement: 3750 Lbs

Rig and Sails:

This boat is a Sloop with a Mast-head Rig, and 257 sq. feet of sail area. She has 2 Sails, Including Main Sail, Genoa.

She has a Fin-keel. The Hull is Original Gel-coat, and is in In minor need of cosmetic work condition.

Evinrude Gas (Outboard) Engine, 9.9 horse power with Moderate Hours.

Outboard, Roller-furling, Anchor, Sails

For Cruising, Racing, and anything in between, the Pearson 25 is one of the most versatile mid sized sailboats out there. Because her sleek profile and low wetted surface make her a fast and responsive sailboat, while her efficient cockpit and cabin make her a pleasure to cruise overnight with. That means getting there faster and more comfortable. Built by Pearson Yachts, this superior design was first molded by US Yacht. The design became so popular that pretty soon she was being built by multiple shipyards. Also called the "Triton 25", Pearson Yachts set out to construct the best 25 footer to date. Down below, there is plenty of room to entertain, sleep, and accommodate your guests and crew. That means a full galley, dinette, and berthing for 5, makes the Pearson 25 perfect for weekend cruising the Long Island Sound. Her long-shaft, Evinrude Outboard makes the perfect balance of auxiliary power, and sail. If you are looking a responsive Sailboat cruise the Sound then look no further than the Pearson 25.

Contact Fred for arrangements and info: 347 927 3350

Or email for more details: [email protected]

Photo Gallery: Pearson 25

This listing Originated at Barronsmarine.com/boats-for-sale/ .

For questions on listings Call: (347) 927-3350  Email:  [email protected]

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PEARSON 25 Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of PEARSON 25. Built by Pearson Yachts and designed by undefined, the boat was first built in 1986. It has a hull type of Fin w/spade rudder and LOA is 7.62. Its sail area/displacement ratio 17.08. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by undefined, runs on undefined.

PEARSON 25 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about PEARSON 25 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, contributions, who builds pearson 25.

PEARSON 25 is built by Pearson Yachts.

When was PEARSON 25 first built?

PEARSON 25 was first built in 1986.

How long is PEARSON 25?

PEARSON 25 is 6.53 m in length.

What is mast height on PEARSON 25?

PEARSON 25 has a mast height of 8.23 m.

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Pearson Yachts Portal

Pearson sailboat table.

Table of All Models by Pearson Yachts

All sailboat models.

Listed by model name - click header field to sort by column.

Key to Sailboat Table

• Model: Pearson model name and link to line drawing.
• Type: Boat and Rig Attributes. All types are Bermuda rigged sloop, single mast with fore-and-aft sails, unless otherwise specified by Cat, Ketch, or Yawl.
• LOA: Length Over All, the maximum length of the hull, in feet, from stem to stern measuring parallel to the waterline. This does not include projections of pulpits or spars.
• Draft: Deepest extent of hull, typically bottom distance from waterline to bottom of keel.
• DISP: Displacement, the vessel's weight in pounds, calculated from the volume of water displaced by it.
• SA/D: The sail area to displacement ratio is a bench-mark to evaluate light air performance as well as heavy air conditions.
• Production: Approximate years and number produced.
• Designer: Yacht designer
• Links: Web-Page references. External sites open in new tab or window.

Specifications are approximate from Pearson Yachts.

Key to Designers

• Shaw – William H. Shaw joined Pearson Yachts in 1964 as Chief Architect, eventually running the entire Pearson Yachts Division of Grumman. During his tenure, he and his team designed over 50 different sail and power boats. Bill Shaw
• Alberg – Carl Alberg's successful career as a designer can be linked back to his partnership with Pearson Yachts and early fiberglass yacht construction. Carl Alberg
• Tripp – During the 1960s, William H. Tripp Jr. was one of America’s most successful yacht designers. Bill Tripp
• Rhodes – Philip L. Rhodes was a naval architect known for his diverse yacht designs. Philip Rhodes | Philip Rhodes Vanguard
• Tritt – Bill Tritt is a yacht builder with a keen interest in fiberglass as a material to use in boats and cars. Bill Tritt
• Alden – John G. Alden was an American naval architect and the founder of Alden Designs. John Alden

Fast Boats in Their Time

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The guy who started it all has done it again...

Fast boats don't have to be ugly...

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• Sailboat Guide

Pearson 25 is a 25 ′ 0 ″ / 7.6 m monohull sailboat designed by Doug Peterson and built by Pearson Yachts starting in 1986.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Also known as the TRITON 25. (formerly US 25/BUCCANEER 250). The molds for these yachts were purchased from US Yachts which had earlier purchased them from Bayliner Inc. (builder of the Buccaneer series of sailboats). How many were built besides the one shown in the manufacturers brochure is unknown.

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US Yacht 25' - Are they as bad as they say?

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Hi, I'm getting ready to purchase a 25' US Yacht for $2500, but I recently read that they are built from the molds once used for Bayliner boats. Apparently Bayliner sold the design to Pearson, who built a few boats and then they sold it to US Yacht who used it for a few years in the early 80's. The boat I'm looking at seems pretty decent, and has everything I'm looking for (except headroom). It seems well built and solid, it has a split backstay, in mast halyards, in boom outhaul, cockpit forward traveler, Lewmar winches, an enclosed head, operable portholes, a decent sail inventory, etc. I don't plan on having a survey done, as I don't think it's worth paying 20% of the boats purchase price to have someone tell me what I already know. I've gone over every inch and I haven't found any issues. No water penetration, no loose hardware, no chain plate problems, (teak bulkheads), no soft spots, nothing really stands out. All in all it appears to be a decent little boat, which makes me wonder why everyone I've talked to says they are pieces of junk. Has anyone owned or been intimate with one of these? This picture is not the actually boat, but exactly like it. US 25  

THAT pic is not a pic of a typicaly Bayliner that most of us know about. In reality, that boat looks like a decent designed and sailable boat. The bayliners that I know about in that range would have a deck another 1-2' higher and another row of windows. I also do not recall any problems with some of the US Yacht boats built. Yes a spin off of Bayliner, that did go BK in the 80's, but a lot of BB's did that do to the recession at the time, including Cal, O'Day, Islander, Erickson etc that built nice boats. Marty  

Some owner reviews here: http://www.sailboatowners.com/reviews/revread.tpl?fno=499.93&id=11837863117890830 Sounds like it is not put together any better than the Bayliner though it looks better.  

Excellent, thanks camaraderie, that was some good info. Now I don't know what to do...  

I sailed on one of these years ago - very small cockpit since they try to cram some accomodation into a smallish hull. Decent performance for a small boat, though. It is actually a Gary Mull design - which is a good thing - but of concern, for example, was that fact that the main bulkhead was not tabbed into the hull. I can recall seeing light between the hull liner and the bulkhead edge. The US 22 and 25 were Mull, the Buccaneer 295/US30 and 33 were Doug Peterson designs - decent pedigrees but reputedly poor execution. But at least from a design point of view they were leaps ahead of the infamous Buccaneers that most associate with the name (and Bayliner).  

Has anyone owned or been intimate with one of these? Click to expand...

Not a Bayliner Buccaneer Have you ever heard of a US Yacht with blisters? I know of expensive boats 2-3 years old with them. That says alot about these 25+ year old boats! They aren 't tanks like the Buccs, but they aren't all that sluggish either... Brian US30 Wu-Wei  

What 2-3 year old boats have you seen with blisters? Brand names please!!  

us 25 I just recently bought a US 25 and I love it! The cockpit is a bit cramped and the tiller seems a little long, and getting to the outboard can be an adventure but over all I think she is a fine craft and I look forward to many happy years at the helm! How ever I have found it very difficult to locate much info on this model....any help would be appreciated!  

The issue is what you cant SEE Which would be all the wood stringers that have a high ROT rate i am sure sailnet member US27inKS can give you expert advise on were to check as he did a COMPLETE rebuild of a 27'  

When are manufacturers going to start using trex decking in place of wood?  

The orginal Bayliner 25 was a boat to stay away from. It was designed with to little of a sail area, too much freeboard with little if any input from a sailing aspect of boating being developed by the powerboat manufacturer. The US 25 however is quite different. I owned one and outsailed alot of 25ft buidlt by others and gave more room than most. The teck sole was a nice added. I wished I had gone with the US29, since the head room was missing. The quality was good. Hope you are enjoying  

I have a US25 and it's great. There are quite a few threads on this forum with both sides speaking out, but I say to make sure to listen to those that own them and sail them regularly. Very well balanced boat with a good amount of space inside and out for it's size. As for the tiller issue, I replaced my wine with a shorter one made out of hazelnut wood. I thought it was too long too. Agreed on the headroom, just a few more inches in height would be nice.  

GraemeInCanada said: I have a US25 and it's great. There are quite a few threads on this forum with both sides speaking out, but I say to make sure to listen to those that own them and sail them regularly. Very well balanced boat with a good amount of space inside and out for it's size. As for the tiller issue, I replaced my wine with a shorter one made out of hazelnut wood. I thought it was too long too. Agreed on the headroom, just a few more inches in height would be nice. Click to expand...

theres a 78 bucanneer 25ft asking 4 grand near where i live. Just FYI, i live in montreal but i'm currently visting my parents in Alabama. heres the link: BUCCANEER - Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu Voiliers à vendre - Kijiji Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu What do you think about this one?  

No kidding, but he is leaving for a month.:laugher  

The US Yachts were actually decent built boats. They weren't fast, but they were decent cruisers. Things to look for are bulkheads being rotted, as well as the teak/holly sole will be trashed. The windows leaked (like everything 30+ years old). They do sail quite well, and the fin keel model will hold up in a blow like nobody's business. They aren't pointing machines, but who cares its a $2500 sailboat. If the bulkheads are good, the chainplates are good, standing rigging is passable. Mast straight and all hardware still present... You're 99% there. Other thing to check is the rudder post, these wobble (not a big deal), but you'll have to shim it to keep it from dropping the rudder. Not unusual to hear of the rudders falling out, again, take some precautions and you'll be fine. My father bought a brand new US 27 in 1981 (I was his crew). It was a HELLUVA boat. We sailed it on Lake Norman, NC for 4 years, then moved it to NJ and sailed it on Barnegat. We actually raced it a lot, lost lots... We only ever placed when the winds were 30+ sustained, and a water spout formed on the lake. As for the US 25? My brother owned one for 10+ years (just sold it about 4 years ago)... Windows leaked like a strainer. Sailed it like mad though. They go over quick, then harden up nicely about 20 degrees. Trick to get them moving is a decent sized genoa. On the 27 we had a 170 we used up until the winds his 20+, on the 25 my brother never had more than a 110, and because of it, spent many a hot day with light winds going very slow. These are masthead rigs with blade mains, again headsail is the key. If you want any more information feel free to PM me.  

Hilarious...  

I can see why this guy has been banned from other forums, his internet cojones' keep getting in the way.  

Did he say when that month starts?  

Attitude is everything........well, at least for some folks.  

Upkeep is the deal (the windows leak, like in my Capri 25, and my Capri 22, at 30+ yeras the seals/windows crack and leak, duh)...as for kenneth... well, I think he stands out as a colossal waste of electrons, other than that... who cares? The OP asked a question are they horribly built as has been said. They aren't any worse than, a Catalina, or a Hunter, or a MacGregor, evidence is they are still being sailed 30 years later, and they were a production boat. They have their issues, as they all do. My personal experience with the 27, and the 25 is they are tough boats, sail well, but aren't going to set the water on fire with speed. With that they are big for their size (cruiser class). The US Yacht brand is slightly different than the Buccaneer or Bayliner models, they are arguably lighter, and less ugly, and generally better laid out.  

SHNOOL said: Upkeep is the deal (the windows leak, like in my Capri 25, and my Capri 22, at 30+ yeras the seals/windows crack and leak, duh)...as for kenneth... well, I think he stands out as a colossal waste of electrons, other than that... who cares? The OP asked a question are they horribly built as has been said. They aren't any worse than, a Catalina, or a Hunter, or a MacGregor, evidence is they are still being sailed 30 years later, and they were a production boat. They have their issues, as they all do. My personal experience with the 27, and the 25 is they are tough boats, sail well, but aren't going to set the water on fire with speed. With that they are big for their size (cruiser class). The US Yacht brand is slightly different than the Buccaneer or Bayliner models, they are arguably lighter, and less ugly, and generally better laid out. Click to expand...

Yes but when they were Us yacht the topsides and lines changed sugnificantly as I understand it they eventually became the Triton molds before they were (are) abandoned. Yep I understand the molds still exist. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2  

Hi. I thought I have a US25, but now I think its a Buccaneer 255. Its a 1979 model and US yachts didnt take over til 1981. Plus it has a Volvo sail drive 50s 7.5 hp. None of the US yachts seem to have one, or Buccaneer 250s. I found the specs on the 255, but no pics. Its all is the same as the US 25 and Buc 250 except it weighs 4100 instead of 3750, and the spec said 3.5 ft draft but mine has a deep keel. I was wondering where the extra weight comes from? The sail drive weighs under 70 lbs. Does anyone know about these Buccaneer 255s. I dont think there are that many of them.  

I cant speak of the exact model but the Buccaneers as I recall had taller topsides than the US line. I'm betting this is where the weight difference is. Keep in mind those weights are "average" as with all boats and can vary as much as 20% within the production. The buccs and bayliners may have been the same hulls but the layouts and decks were different. As also said the topsides were taller on the older models. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2  

Ok, i found a magazine ad for the 1979 buccaneer 250. Go figure? Its sister ship is the 255 and comes with an inboard. Extra weight must be from fuels tank, exhaust, blower, and stuff like that. The 250 weighs 3750, just like the us yachts version. If you got the optional galley, then the cabin is layed out like the Us 25. Mystery solved  

Looks like a nice boat I would go for it. Have you looked at any San Juans same year nice boat as well, Or a Captive 240 fast but tender and a nice interior as well.  

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• Sailboat Reviews

Pearson Vanguard

The ravages of time notwithstanding, the vanguard represents a lot of boat for the money..

Pearson Yachts, of Portsmouth, Rhode Island, was founded in 1956 by cousins Clinton and Everett Pearson, and fellow Brown University graduate Fred Heald. For the first few years it produced dinghies and runabouts in fiberglass, a boatbuilding material pioneered in the early days of post-war America by Ray Greene, Taylor Winner and a handful of other erstwhile inventors. Then in 1959 Pearson exhibited its prototype Carl Alberg-Designed Triton at the New York Boat Show, wrote enough orders to pay its hotel bill, and sold public stock to raise the necessary capital to expand facilities. The Triton, while not the first auxiliary sailboat built of fiberglass, was the first boat to enjoy a long production run (over 700), and keep its builders in the black.

The Vanguard, designed by Philip Rhodes, followed in 1962 and remained in production until 1967, totalling 404 hulls. It was preceded by the Invicta, Alberg 35, Bounty II, Ariel, Rhodes 41, and of course the Triton. This line of fiberglass cruisers and sometime racers gave Pearson a strong position in the market. The pedigree of the designers was odorless, and construction quality was good for that particular moment in the timetable of plastic boatbuilding technology.

Sailing Performance

The early Pearsons were club raced with moderate success under the now-defunct CCA Rule, and in some offshore events. Indeed, the 37′ Invicta yawl Burgoo won the 1964 Bermuda Race. It was the first time a fiberglass boat had won the event and prompted a lot of advertising ballyhoo from the company. While the Vanguard never acquired as memorable a victory as the Invicta, it performed decently.

One does not, however, buy a vintage Pearson for scintillating performance. A PHRF rating of 216 indicates the Vanguard will spend a lot of time watching the transom of even a Pearson 32, a 1979 design with a divided keel and rudder underbody whose rating is 174. The reasons include greater displacement and shorter waterline. The theoretical hull speed of the Vanguard’s 22′ 4″ waterline is just 6.3 knots. As the boat heels, however, the waterline’s sailing length quickly increases, as will speed. Therefore, the Vanguard was intended to sail at about 15° of heel for maximum efficiency. Once its “shoulder” is immersed, the boat is fairly stiff.

Maneuverability is good. Comments from our reader surveys say, “Turns on a dime.” Despite bearing the “full keel” appellation, the Vanguard’s generous overhangs, cutaway forefoot and raked rudderpost mean there’s not as much lateral surface area as one might suppose. Backing down is dreadful, but that’s to be expected with a keel-hung rudder and propeller in the aperture. One learns to aim in the direction of the prop; to attempt otherwise is to thumb your nose at physics and invite the maledictions of watchful owners on nearby boats.

Like many CCA-inspired designs with large mainsails and small foretriangles, the Vanguard likes to carry a large headsail longer than is customary on more contemporary designs. Instead of switching down from, say, a 150% or 165% genoa when the wind approaches 18 knots, the wiser practice is to reef the main. The consequence of any other strategy is a wicked weather helm that makes tiller steering seem like a two-handed wrassle with an alligator.

Owners have dealt with the weather helm problem in various ways. Because raking the mast forward (to move the center of effort forward) is an insufficient measure, some have installed double-duty bow platforms to relocate the headstay farther forward, and as a permanent home for their main anchor. Others have tried roachless mainsails. The easiest solution is simply to adjust your thinking about sail combinations. As one reader wrote, “It took me three years to learn to shorten the main (before reducing headsail size).”

A small number of Vanguards were delivered with yawl rigs, and though none of the readers in our survey were owners of split rigs, they presumably would be easier to balance than the sloop.

Despite these idiosyncracies, the Vanguard is well behaved in deteriorating weather. It is never skittish while tacking or during sail-changing maneuvers, and in fact, by luffing the mainsail it is possible to carry sail longer than is prudent. Switching down, of course, is inevitable. “In 50 knots with a storm jib and trysail,” said one reader, “she can make three knots to windward.”

The ubiquitous Atomic 4 gasoline engine was the standard auxiliary for the Vanguard. Many are still in operation though it is more and more common to find thrifty replacement diesels, a certain improvement in resale value. If the Atomic 4 hasn’t been replaced yet, one should factor in the cost of repowering in the not-so-distant future.

Accessibility varies dramatically between the standard aft galley layout and the dinette arrangement with quarter berths aft. In the first, the engine is located under the sink; access is from the front via a cupboard door and from the side by removing the offset companionway counter steps. Needless to say, this is not a convenient setup for even routine oil changing, let alone major repair work. In the second, the engine is covered by a box directly under the bridgedeck; removable panels, fastened by knurled thumbscrews, expose the engine on all sides except the aft transmission end, which is under the bridge deck. While ease of engine maintenance is certainly an important factor in choosing a boat, in the case of the Vanguard the two general arrangement plans also have significant impact on livability at anchor and at sea, giving prospective buyers pause to contemplate the many implications of the two different layouts. More on this later.

Construction

Owners’ faith in the integrity of older Pearsons borders on the religious. “They don’t make ’em like they used to!” is a frequent call in the hallelujah chorus of these proselytes, usually followed by some refrain of boatyard wisdom such as, “Back then they didn’t know how thick fiberglass had to be.” Or they say, “My hull is …this thick!” as the space between their thumb and finger grows like Pinocchio’s nose. There is probably some truth to these beliefs—that scan’tlings for fiberglass boats were for a time loosely derived from the builder’s knowledge of wooden boats—but a thick skin doesn’t necessarily result in a well made boat, nor does the hull layup tell the whole construction story. Amen.

The Vanguard’s single skin hull was indeed the beneficiary of generous laminations of 1 1/2-ounce mat and 24-ounce woven roving, but probably not as many as some owners would like to believe. One indication of panel stiffness is whether the hull changes shape in its cradle; a door that suddenly won’t open is a telling clue, and with the Vanguard, this is seldom the case. It is also true that most Vanguards weigh about 1,500 pounds more than the designed displacement.

Perhaps the most dramatic difference between old and new Pearsons (and most older boats for that matter) is the use today of many more fiberglass molds: furniture foundations, iceboxes, shower stalls, etc. In some instances this practice may represent an improvement, in others not. The Vanguard’s interior was constructed of plywood taped to the hull. Correct building procedures were generally followed, such as peeling the plastic laminate where bulkheads are taped to the hull for better adhesion. Neatness, however, sometimes was lacking; examples might include wrinkles in the cloth and frayed, untrimmed edges.

The all-wood interior, properly taped to the hull, nevertheless creates a strong internal support structure and is amenable to do-it-yourself modification. Where it becomes unsatisfactory is in some structures such as the icebox, which in the Vanguard was built in situ from plywood and sheets of Styrofoam; the result is too many thermal leaks, not enough insulation, and more weight than necessary. Owners wishing to upgrade the icebox have the dubious choice of adding insulation on the inside (resulting in an unacceptably small box) or ripping out the entire box and building a new one from scratch, which is a devil of a job.

The deck is balsa cored and the hull-to-deck joint is a simple flange that is sealed and through-bolted. The balsa is terminated several inches from the rail so that deck hardware such as lifeline stanchions and cleats are mounted on solid glass. As with most older boats, bedding compound tends to deteriorate over time, and severe gelcoat cracking allows the ingress of water. This is of particular concern where coring is involved. Extreme remedies for punky decks—grinding away one skin of the deck sandwich, removing watersoaked wood and reglassing—is a major and costly project.

The one real problem with the Vanguard’s basic structure is the keel (it’s not a problem as long as you don’t hit anything, but groundings, for the curious cruiser, are as predictable as the tide). The lead ballast castings were set in a bed of resin inside the hollow keel, which is part of the hull mold, then glassed over so that water entering the keel cavity will not enter the cabin. Without fiberglass reinforcement, the resin bed is brittle and provides little added protection from a grounding. Voids between the ballast and keel sides were filled with various types of material over the years, including sheets of balsa, which can soak up water like sponges if the keel is holed.

The Vanguard’s mast step is a welded steel box bolted to the deck. Twenty years seems to be about the maximum useful life of these steps, eventually succumbing to rust and requiring the custom fabrication of a new one. Entrance to the forward cabin is offset to starboard so that a solid teak compression post could be fitted to the head side of the bulkhead.

Fuel (21 gals) and water (45 gals) tanks are Monel, the former mounted under the cockpit footwell and the latter under the main cabin sole on centerline. The fuel tank should be removable, but replacing the water tank would require dismantling the sole, which unfortunately is not an unusual situation in many boats. On the plus side, Monel is an excellent tank material and will probably survive the boat itself. Plumbing is straightforward with bronze, barreltype seacocks on through-hull fittings.

Most owners have strong opinions about the two arrangement plans—standard and dinette. Neither is without problems. The forward cabin is the same in both plans, as is the head. In the main cabin, the standard arrangement features a settee/berth to starboard with a pipe berth over; to port is an extension settee that pulls out to form a full-width single berth and a pilot berth outboard, totaling four decent sea berths. The aft galley is divided by the offset companionway with icebox to starboard and sink and stove to port. There is no provision for an oven in this plan, which may be a drawback for live-aboards and some cruisers. The fold-down bulkhead-mounted table makes for more open space but is something of a contraption.

The dinette plan has a more useful table, which is handy for chartwork and lowers to form a double berth. But because of the Vanguard’s comparatively narrow beam, the dinette is small. The galley is a sideboard affair with adequate plate and food stowage.

Its chief advantage is a three-burner stove/oven, and its greatest liability is a sink that won’t drain with the rail down on port tack. In fact, in such conditions the sink overflows into the stowage bins behind and ultimately into the bilge. This requires closing the sink drain seacock in blustery weather. Two quarter-berths are secure at sea though adults might find them a bit claustrophobic on a regular basis. But at least they won’t have to be stripped of bedding each morning, as do settee berths in the main cabin.

The stepped coachroof provides unusual headroom in the main cabin (about 6′ 5″), and marginal headroom in the head and forward cabin (6′ 0″ plus). Berth lengths are all just over 6’. The head is small, though there is adequate stowage space, and an aluminum fold-down sink at least makes shaving a semi-civilized possibility.

The Vanguard’s interior is virtually all plywood, with bulkheads and furniture foundations taped to the hull. The imitation teak-grain plastic laminate is hardly the fashion today, and contributes to a drab, dark feeling inside. The cabins could be given a real breath of life by painting over the laminate (good sanding required for adhesion, though results may still be marginal) or applying a new veneer on top.

A molded fiberglass inner liner was used for the overhead, and the hull sides are covered with vinyl, the latter being a popular target of home renovation projects. The installation of a wood ceiling or cementing some durable fabric or other foam-backed material is a relatively easy and quick way to spruce up the interior. Fiddles, moldings, handholds and other trim are teak. The cabin sole is teak over plywood, and the floors are wood fiberglassed to the hull.

Conclusions

A reasonable shoal draft of 4′ 6″ makes the Vanguard suitable for cruising the Bahamas and Florida Keys, yet also gives it enough stability for offshore sailing. Perhaps the boat’s major drawback for living aboard or extended cruising is its size; a short waterline and narrow beam condemn owners to stowing on deck surplus drinking water and fuels, sail bags, ground tackle and the like.

Prospective buyers cannot ignore age either; at more than 25 years old, wiring, bedding compound, wood, plastic and metal parts experience a steady rate of failure when a boat gets this old. If the boat hasn’t been the beneficiary of a major upgrading effort, it soon will.

The Pearson Vanguard is a traditionally styled boat, and therein lies her appeal. Rhodes could draw a mean sheerline and this boat is no exception. Like most of the early Pearsons, the Vanguard offers a lot of boat for the money. Its value peaked in the early 1980s between the high $20s and low $30s, more than twice it’s original cost. In recent years, age and the glut of used boats on the market has brought prices down well below $30,000, often into the teens. Much depends on the amount of upgrading performed by past owners, the most important being engine, topside reconditioning, interior customization, condition of teak and non-skid, and sail inventory.

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