metres LOA
10 - 12
metres LOA
16 - 18
metres LOA
< 6 | 6 - 8 | 8 - 10 | 10 - 12 metres LOA | 12 - 14 metres LOA | 14 - 16 metres LOA | 16 - 18 metres LOA | 18 - 20 metres LOA | |||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Anchor Type | < 1 tonne | 1 - 2.5 tonnes | 1 - 2.5 tonnes | 2.5 - 5 tonnes | 2.5 - 5 tonnes | 5 - 9 tonnes | 5 - 9 tonnes | 9 - 13 tonnes | 9 - 13 tonnes | 13 - 16 tonnes | 13 - 16 tonne | 16 - 20 tonnes | 16 - 20 tonnes | 20 - 25 tonnes | 20 - 25 tonnes | 25 - 40 tonnes |
Fortress | FX7 | FX7 | FX7/FX11 | FX7/FX11 | FX11 | FX11 | FX16 | FX16 | FX23 | FX23 | FX37 | FX37 | FX55 | FX55 | FX85 | FX85 |
Guardian | G7 | G7 | G11 | G11 | G16 | G16 | G23 | G23 | G37 | G37 | ||||||
Spade Aluminium | A40 | A40 | A60 | A60 | A80 | A80 | A100 | A100 | A140 | A140 | A140 | A140 | A140 | A140 | A200 | A200 |
Lewmar LFX | LFX4 | LFX4 | LFX4 | LFX4 | LFX7 | LFX7 | LFX10 | LFX10 | LFX15 | LFX15 | LFX21 | LFX21 |
Rex Francis has set the Anchor Right parameters for the Sarca Excel in a slightly different format. However, it can still be compared with other anchor designs with a little interpretation.
SARCA Excel Parameters - Length and Displacement Anchor Right Advisory - If your boat is over the limit in either column, it is advisable to upgrade to the next size. Upgrading one size for a multihull or long-term anchor dependent cruising would also be considered good practice.
Yacht Length Overall | < 5 metres LOA | 5 - 7 metres LOA | 7 - 10 metres LOA | 10 - 12 metres LOA | 12 - 15 metres LOA | 15 - 17 metres LOA | 17 - 19 metres LOA | 19 - 21 metres LOA | 21 - 23 metres LOA | 23 - 25 metres LOA | 25 - 27 metres LOA |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Weight | < 1.2 tonnes | 1.2 - 2.8 tonnes | 2.8 - 3.5 tonnes | 3.5 - 7 tonnes | 7 - 15 tonnes | 15 - 21 tonnes | 21 - 24 tonnes | 24 - 28 tonnes | 28 - 32 tonnes | 32 - 36 tonnes | 36 - 42 tonnes |
Sarca Excel Weight | 7.5kg | 9.5kg | 12.5kg | 16kg | 22kg | 30kg | 36kg | 40kg | 50kg | 55kg | 63kg |
Sarca Excel Size | #1 | #2 | #3 | #4 | #5 | #6 | #7 | #8 | #9 | #11 | #13 |
Most anchor manufacturers publish a recommended weight of anchor by either the length overall or a combination of length, displacement and windage.
Some top manufacturers also include weather conditions and distinguish between monohulls and multihulls.
The top manufacturers are generally conservative and specify more criteria to help you choose.
The authority of each manufacturer recommendation may be judged by several factors: reputation, personal experience, research, the number of relevant factors taken into account, and the amount of detailed information they publish on the subject.
The Jimmy Green Anchor Size Chart collates the recommended sizing for all the anchors we offer on our website and highlights how similar the recommendations are. Interpretation is still required, e.g. multihulls, high windage profile and extreme weather.
A more detailed explanation of how the data for individual anchors is presented and how it is collated into the Comparison Table follows:
Rocna, Vulcan and Rocna Mark2, Galvanised and Stainless Steel - Length and Displacement
Rocna/Vulcan recommend an anchor one size larger than indicated in their guide for multihulls
Quote from their Fitment Guide - ”our anchor sizing recommendations are intended to provide an anchor adequate for use in most all conditions. We base our calculations on 50 knots of wind, associated surge, and poor holding bottoms.”
Mantus Mark 1 and 2 – Length, Displacement and Wind Speed
Mantus Quote - “we are generally referring to the needs of a cruising boat spending most of its time on anchor. In doing so, we try to envelope high sustained winds (50 knots) and assume poor holding conditions (low viscosity bottoms).”
Mantus publish a chart in three categories – “Lunch Anchor category is recommended for lighter use, expected winds under 30 knots, working anchor for winds under 50 knots and finally, storm anchor recommendations are intended for winds above 50 knots.”
N.B. The Jimmy Green Comparison Table is derived from the Mantus middle category.
Spade Galvanised and Stainless Steel – Length and Displacement
Spade recommend an anchor one size larger than indicated in their guide for multihulls
UltraMarine Stainless Steel – The UltraMarine Anchor Size Guide considers multiple factors. Their comprehensive approach includes Length, Displacement, Mono/Multihull and Windage Profile criteria.
Lewmar Epsilon, Delta and Claw – Length only
Lewmar guidelines are illustrated in a shaded colour range by length only, so you need to judge displacement, i.e. light, average, or heavy, compared with similar length yachts. If the answer is heavy, upgrading to the next size is advisable.
Plastimo Britany – Length only
Plastimo Quote – “Anchor weight per boat length is only given as an indication. However, your anchor selection should also recognise the specific construction of your vessel.”
Using a lightweight anchor goes against the traditional belief that weight is one of the most critical factors in holding power.
Fortress Quote – “Fortress design does not depend upon weight to provide world class performance.”
However, the most popular application for aluminium anchors is as a convenient, high holding power secondary or kedge anchor.
Fortress/Guardian – Length only
Fortress Quote – “Boat anchor size recommendations are for boats of average windage and proportions in 30 knots of wind, average bottom conditions, and moderate protection from open seas. Remember that the loads in 42 knots of wind are twice as much as in 30 knots.”
Spade Aluminium – Length and Displacement
Spade recommend an anchor one size larger than indicated in their guide for multihulls.
Spade Quote – “Aluminium version not recommended for use as a primary anchor.”
Lewmar LFX – Length only
Compare Prices and Purchase an Anchor
Your Ultimate Boating Resource
Anchoring is a crucial aspect of boating, and the right anchor can provide stability, safety and peace of mind for any sailor. Choosing the correct type and size of anchor is essential, as it can greatly impact your overall experience on the water. This guide will outline the various types of anchors available, their ideal uses, and how to choose the right size for your boat.
Anchors serve multiple purposes in boating:
There are several types of anchors to cater for various boating requirements and environments. The primary ones include:
Originally designed for large ships, plow anchors resemble a plowshare and offer excellent holding power in most bottom conditions, especially sand and mud. They work by digging into the seabed and maintaining a consistent grip. Plow anchors are popular among cruisers due to their adaptability, and they can handle a variety of wind and current changes.
Also known as fluke anchors, Danforth anchors boast superior holding power in proportion to their weight. They’re characterized by their flat, sharp flukes and long shank that allows them to dig into soft substrates like sand and mud. However, Danforth anchors may struggle with rocky bottoms and can be challenging to set in grassy or weedy seabeds.
Claw anchors, also known as Bruce anchors, have three claws that provide holding power in a variety of bottom conditions. Due to their versatile design, they re-set easily when the boat’s position changes and can function with shorter scope, which is the anchor rode (chain or rope) payed out relative to the water’s depth. These factors make claw anchors popular among boaters, though their holding power may be less than that of plow or Danforth anchors.
Mushroom anchors are useful for small boats in relatively calm conditions. As the name suggests, they’re shaped like a mushroom and utilize their weight to create a suction effect, embedding themselves into soft bottom substrates like silt or mud. However, they generally offer limited holding power in stronger currents or wind.
Selecting the appropriate size anchor for your vessel involves considering factors like boat weight, size, and the windage (resistance to wind). Generally, anchor manufacturers offer recommendations based on boat length, but it’s essential to factor in your specific boat’s requirements and typical anchoring conditions.
Anchors are typically sized by weight, ranging from a few pounds for small vessels to several hundred pounds for large yachts. The rule of thumb is that the heavier the boat, the heavier the anchor should be. However, it’s important to consider the type of anchor you’re using, as the holding power varies across anchor designs.
Boat length is another crucial aspect to consider when selecting an anchor size. Consult manufacturer guidelines on their recommendations for anchor sizing based on boat length.
The anchor rode, which connects your boat to the anchor, is critical for holding power. The scope, typically measured in a ratio of the rode’s length to the water’s depth, is an important factor for the anchor’s performance. A common recommendation is using a 4:1 scope for temporary mooring and a 7:1 scope for overnight anchoring. Ensure the chain (the section of the rode closest to the anchor) is of suitable size and strength to prevent it from breaking under strain.
When selecting an anchor for your boat, it’s essential to consider the type, size, and the conditions in which you’ll be anchoring. Consult manufacturer guidelines and conduct thorough research on the options available to make an informed decision. A properly sized and suited anchor will offer peace of mind, ensuring your vessel remains securely moored during your adventures on the water.
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There’s a rocna original, rocna mk ii, or vulcan anchor to suit just about any vessel – including larger sizes not featured here. to choose the correctly sized rocna or vulcan anchor for your boat, follow the chart and instructions., anchor sizing guide.
For Multihulls: use the chart as instructed, then select the model one size larger.
Use the tabs to navigate between Metric Tonnes (t), Short Tons (T), and Pounds (lb).
Vessel | Length | Vulcan only | Rocna Orig. only | Vulcan only | Rocna Orig. only | Rocna Orig. only | ||||||||
4 m | 13 ft | ≤ 2 t | ||||||||||||
5 m | 16 ft | ≤ 1 t | ≤ 5 t | |||||||||||
6 m | 20 ft | ≤ ½ t | ≤ 3.5t | ≤ 7 t | ||||||||||
7 m | 23 ft | ≤ ½ t | ≤ 2 t | ≤ 6 t | ≤ 7 t | ≤ 9 t | ||||||||
8 m | 26 ft | ≤ 1 t | ≤ 5 t | ≤ 6 t | ≤ 8 t | ≤ 12 t | ||||||||
9 m | 30 ft | ≤ ½ t | ≤ 4 t | ≤ 5 t | ≤ 7 t | ≤ 10 t | ≤ 16 t | |||||||
10 m | 33 ft | ≤ 3 t | ≤ 4 t | ≤ 6 t | ≤ 8.5 t | ≤ 14 t | ≤ 22 t | |||||||
11 m | 36 ft | ≤ 2 t | ≤ 3 t | ≤ 5 t | ≤ 7 t | ≤ 12 t | ≤ 20 t | |||||||
12 m | 39 ft | ≤ 4 t | ≤ 6 t | ≤ 10 t | ≤ 18 t | ≤ 30 t | ||||||||
14 m | 46 ft | ≤ 4 t | ≤ 6 t | ≤ 13 t | ≤ 23 t | ≤ 40 t | ||||||||
16 m | 52 ft | ≤ 3 t | ≤ 9 t | ≤ 18 t | ≤ 32 t | ≤ 60 t | ||||||||
18 m | 59 ft | ≤ 5 t | ≤ 14 t | ≤ 25 t | ≤ 50 t | ≤ 85 t | ||||||||
20 m | 66 ft | ≤ 10 t | ≤ 18 t | ≤ 40 t | ≤ 75 t | ≤ 165 t | ||||||||
22 m | 72 ft | ≤ 6 t | ≤ 12 t | ≤ 33 t | ≤ 65 t | ≤ 150 t | ||||||||
24 m | 79 ft | ≤ 7 t | ≤ 25 t | ≤ 55 t | ≤ 135 t | |||||||||
26 m | 85 ft | ≤ 18 t | ≤ 45 t | ≤ 120 t | ||||||||||
28 m | 92 ft | ≤ 35 t | ≤ 105 t | |||||||||||
30 m | 98 ft | Use EN* | ||||||||||||
Anchor | Weight | 4 kg | 6 kg | 9 kg | 10 kg | 12 kg | 15 kg | 20 kg | 25 kg | 33 kg | 40 kg | 55 kg | 70 kg | 110 kg |
9 lb | 13 lb | 20 lb | 22 lb | 27 lb | 33 lb | 44 lb | 55 lb | 73 lb | 88 lb | 121 lb | 154 lb | 243 lb | ||
Suggested | G40 chain | 6mm | 6mm | 7mm | 7mm | 8mm | 8mm | 9mm | 10mm | 10mm | 11mm | 12mm | 14mm | 16mm |
1/4″ | 1/4″ | 1/4″ | 1/4″ | 5/16″ | 5/16″ | 5/16″ | 3/8″ | 3/8″ | 7/16″ | 7/16″ | 1/2″ | 5/8″ |
Vessel | Length | Vulcan only | Rocna Orig. only | Vulcan only | Rocna Orig. only | Rocna Orig. only | ||||||||
4 m | 13 ft | ≤ 2.2 tn | ||||||||||||
5 m | 16 ft | ≤ 1.1 tn | ≤ 5.5 tn | |||||||||||
6 m | 20 ft | ≤ ½ tn | ≤ 3.9 tn | ≤ 7.7 tn | ||||||||||
7 m | 23 ft | ≤ ½ tn | ≤ 2.2 tn | ≤ 6.6 tn | ≤ 7.7 tn | ≤ 9.9 tn | ||||||||
8 m | 26 ft | ≤ 1.1 tn | ≤ 5.5 tn | ≤ 6.6 tn | ≤ 8.8 tn | ≤ 13.2 tn | ||||||||
9 m | 30 ft | ≤ ½ tn | ≤ 4.4 tn | ≤ 5.5 tn | ≤ 7.7 tn | ≤ 11.0 tn | ≤ 17.6 tn | |||||||
10 m | 33 ft | ≤ 3.3 tn | ≤ 4.4 tn | ≤ 6.6 tn | ≤ 9.4 tn | ≤ 15.4 tn | ≤ 24.3 tn | |||||||
11 m | 36 ft | ≤ 2.2 tn | ≤ 3.3 tn | ≤ 5.5 tn | ≤ 7.7 tn | ≤ 13.2 tn | ≤ 22.0 tn | |||||||
12 m | 39 ft | ≤ 4.4 tn | ≤ 6.6 tn | ≤ 11.0 tn | ≤ 19.8 tn | ≤ 33.1 tn | ||||||||
14 m | 46 ft | ≤ 4.4 tn | ≤ 6.6 tn | ≤ 14.3 tn | ≤ 25.4 tn | ≤ 44.1 tn | ||||||||
16 m | 52 ft | ≤ 3.3 tn | ≤ 9.9 tn | ≤ 19.8 tn | ≤ 35.3 tn | ≤ 66.1 tn | ||||||||
18 m | 59 ft | ≤ 5.5 tn | ≤ 15.4 tn | ≤ 27.6 tn | ≤ 55.1 tn | ≤ 93.7 tn | ||||||||
20 m | 66 ft | ≤ 11.0 tn | ≤ 19.8 tn | ≤ 44.1 tn | ≤ 82.7 tn | ≤ 182 tn | ||||||||
22 m | 72 ft | ≤ 6.6 tn | ≤ 13.2 tn | ≤ 36.4 tn | ≤ 71.7 tn | ≤ 165 tn | ||||||||
24 m | 79 ft | ≤ 7.7 tn | ≤ 27.6 tn | ≤ 60.6 tn | ≤ 149 tn | |||||||||
26 m | 85 ft | ≤ 19.8 tn | ≤ 49.6 tn | ≤ 132 tn | ||||||||||
28 m | 92 ft | ≤ 38.6 tn | ≤ 116 tn | |||||||||||
30 m | 98 ft | Use EN* | ||||||||||||
Anchor | weight | 4 kg | 6 kg | 9 kg | 10 kg | 12 kg | 15 kg | 20 kg | 25 kg | 33 kg | 40 kg | 55 kg | 70 kg | 110 kg |
9 lb | 13 lb | 20 lb | 22 lb | 27 lb | 33 lb | 44 lb | 55 lb | 73 lb | 88 lb | 121 lb | 154 lb | 243 lb | ||
Suggested | G40 chain | 6 mm | 6 mm | 7 mm | 7 mm | 8 mm | 8 mm | 9 mm | 10 mm | 10 mm | 11 mm | 12 mm | 14 mm | 16 mm |
1/4″ | 1/4″ | 1/4″ | 1/4″ | 5/16″ | 5/16″ | 5/16″ | 3/8″ | 3/8″ | 7/16″ | 7/16″ | 1/2″ | 5/8″ |
Vessel | Length | Vulcan only | Rocna Orig. only | Vulcan only | Rocna Orig. only | Rocna Orig. only | ||||||||
4 m | 13 ft | ≤ 4400 lb | ||||||||||||
5 m | 16 ft | ≤ 2200 lb | ≤ 11000 lb | |||||||||||
6 m | 20 ft | ≤ 1100 lb | ≤ 7700 lb | ≤ 15400 lb | ||||||||||
7 m | 23 ft | ≤ 1100 lb | ≤ 4400 lb | ≤ 13200 lb | ≤ 15400 lb | ≤ 19800 lb | ||||||||
8 m | 26 ft | ≤ 2200 lb | ≤ 11000 lb | ≤ 13200 lb | ≤ 17600 lb | ≤ 26500 lb | ||||||||
9 m | 30 ft | ≤ 1100 lb | ≤ 8800 lb | ≤ 11000 lb | ≤ 15400 lb | ≤ 22000 lb | ≤ 35300 lb | |||||||
10 m | 33 ft | ≤ 6600 lb | ≤ 8800 lb | ≤ 13200 lb | ≤ 18700 lb | ≤ 30900 lb | ≤ 48500 lb | |||||||
11 m | 36 ft | ≤ 4400 lb | ≤ 6600 lb | ≤ 11000 lb | ≤ 15400 lb | ≤ 26500 lb | ≤ 44100 lb | |||||||
12 m | 39 ft | ≤ 8800 lb | ≤ 13200 lb | ≤ 22000 lb | ≤ 39700 lb | ≤ 66100 lb | ||||||||
14 m | 46 ft | ≤ 8800 lb | ≤ 13200 lb | ≤ 28700 lb | ≤ 50700 lb | ≤ 88200 lb | ||||||||
16 m | 52 ft | ≤ 6600 lb | ≤ 19800 lb | ≤ 39700 lb | ≤ 70500 lb | ≤ 132300 lb | ||||||||
18 m | 59 ft | ≤ 11000 lb | ≤ 30900 lb | ≤ 55100 lb | ≤ 110200 lb | ≤ 187400 lb | ||||||||
20 m | 66 ft | ≤ 22000 lb | ≤ 39700 lb | ≤ 88200 lb | ≤ 165300 lb | ≤ 363800 lb | ||||||||
22 m | 72 ft | ≤ 13200 lb | ≤ 26500 lb | ≤ 72800 lb | ≤ 143300 lb | ≤ 330700 lb | ||||||||
24 m | 79 ft | ≤ 15400 lb | ≤ 55100 lb | ≤ 121300 lb | ≤ 297600 lb | |||||||||
26 m | 85 ft | ≤ 39700 lb | ≤ 99200 lb | ≤ 264600 lb | ||||||||||
28 m | 92 ft | ≤ 77200 lb | ≤ 231500 lb | |||||||||||
30 m | 98 ft | Use EN* | ||||||||||||
Anchor | weight | 4 kg | 6 kg | 9 kg | 10 kg | 12 kg | 15 kg | 20 kg | 25 kg | 33 kg | 40 kg | 55 kg | 70 kg | 110 kg |
9 lb | 13 lb | 20 lb | 22 lb | 27 lb | 33 lb | 44 lb | 55 lb | 73 lb | 88 lb | 121 lb | 154 lb | 243 lb | ||
Suggested | G40 chain | 6 mm | 6 mm | 7 mm | 7 mm | 8 mm | 8 mm | 9 mm | 10 mm | 10 mm | 11 mm | 12 mm | 14 mm | 16 mm |
1/4″ | 1/4″ | 1/4″ | 1/4″ | 5/16″ | 5/16″ | 5/16″ | 3/8″ | 3/8″ | 7/16″ | 7/16″ | 1/2″ | 5/8″ |
Vessel | Length | |||||||||||||
4 m | 13 ft | ≤ 2 t | ||||||||||||
5 m | 16 ft | ≤ 1 t | ≤ 5 t | |||||||||||
6 m | 20 ft | ≤ ½ t | ≤ 3.5 t | ≤ 8 t | ||||||||||
7 m | 23 ft | ≤ ½ t | ≤ 2 t | ≤ 7 t | ≤ 10 t | |||||||||
8 m | 26 ft | ≤ 1 t | ≤ 6 t | ≤ 8.5 t | ≤ 13 t | |||||||||
9 m | 30 ft | ≤ ½ t | ≤ 5 t | ≤ 7.5 t | ≤ 11 t | ≤ 18 t | ||||||||
10 m | 33 ft | ≤ 4 t | ≤ 6.5 t | ≤ 9.5 t | ≤ 16 t | ≤ 25 t | ||||||||
11 m | 36 ft | ≤ 3 t | ≤ 5.5 t | ≤ 8 t | ≤ 14 t | ≤ 23 t | ||||||||
12 m | 39 ft | ≤ 4.5 t | ≤ 6.5 t | ≤ 11 t | ≤ 21 t | ≤ 34 t | ||||||||
14 m | 46 ft | ≤ 4.5 t | ≤ 7 t | ≤ 15 t | ≤ 26 t | ≤ 45 t | ||||||||
16 m | 52 ft | ≤ 4 t | ≤ 10 t | ≤ 20 t | ≤ 36 t | ≤ 60 t | ||||||||
18 m | 59 ft | ≤ 6 t | ≤ 16 t | ≤ 28 t | ≤ 50 t | ≤ 85 t | ||||||||
20 m | 66 ft | ≤ 11 t | ≤ 20 t | ≤ 40 t | ≤ 75 t | ≤ 120 t | ≤ 175 t | |||||||
22 m | 72 ft | ≤ 7 t | ≤ 13 t | ≤ 33 t | ≤ 65 t | ≤ 110 t | ≤ 160 t | |||||||
24 m | 79 ft | ≤ 8 t | ≤ 25 t | ≤ 55 t | ≤ 100 t | ≤ 145 t | ||||||||
26 m | 85 ft | ≤ 18 t | ≤ 45 t | ≤ 85 t | ≤ 130 t | |||||||||
28 m | 92 ft | ≤ 35 t | ≤ 70 t | ≤ 115 t | ||||||||||
30 m | 98 ft | Use EN* | Use EN* | |||||||||||
Anchor | Weight | 4 kg | 6 kg | 9 kg | 12 kg | 15 kg | 20 kg | 25 kg | 33 kg | 40 kg | 50 kg | 60 kg | 80 kg | 100 kg |
9 lb | 13 lb | 20 lb | 27 lb | 33 lb | 44 lb | 55 lb | 73 lb | 88 lb | 110 lb | 132 lb | 176 lb | 220 lb | ||
Suggested | G40 chain | 6mm | 6mm | 7mm | 8mm | 8mm | 9mm | 10mm | 10mm | 11mm | 12mm | 14mm | 16mm | 16mm |
1/4″ | 1/4″ | 1/4″ | 5/16″ | 5/16″ | 5/16″ | 3/8″ | 3/8″ | 7/16″ | 7/16″ | 1/2″ | 5/8″ | 5/8″ |
Vessel | Length | |||||||||||||
4 m | 13 ft | ≤ 2.2 tn | ||||||||||||
5 m | 16 ft | ≤ 1.1 tn | ≤ 5.5 tn | |||||||||||
6 m | 20 ft | ≤ ½ tn | ≤ 3.9 tn | ≤ 8.8 tn | ||||||||||
7 m | 23 ft | ≤ ½ tn | ≤ 2.2 tn | ≤ 7.7 tn | ≤ 11.0 tn | |||||||||
8 m | 26 ft | ≤ 1.1 tn | ≤ 6.6 tn | ≤ 9.4 tn | ≤ 14.3 tn | |||||||||
9 m | 30 ft | ≤ ½ tn | ≤ 5.5 tn | ≤ 8.3 tn | ≤ 12.1 tn | ≤ 19.8 tn | ||||||||
10 m | 33 ft | ≤ 4.4 tn | ≤ 7.2 tn | ≤ 10.5 tn | ≤ 17.6 tn | ≤ 27.6 tn | ||||||||
11 m | 36 ft | ≤ 3.3 tn | ≤ 6.1 tn | ≤ 8.8 tn | ≤ 15.4 tn | ≤ 25.4 tn | ||||||||
12 m | 39 ft | ≤ 5.0 tn | ≤ 7.2 tn | ≤ 12.1 tn | ≤ 23.1 tn | ≤ 37.5 tn | ||||||||
14 m | 46 ft | ≤ 5.0 tn | ≤ 7.7 tn | ≤ 16.5 tn | ≤ 28.7 tn | ≤ 49.6 tn | ||||||||
16 m | 52 ft | ≤ 4.4 tn | ≤ 11.0 tn | ≤ 22.0 tn | ≤ 39.7 tn | ≤ 66.1 tn | ||||||||
18 m | 59 ft | ≤ 6.6 tn | ≤ 17.6 tn | ≤ 30.9 tn | ≤ 55.1 tn | ≤ 93.7 tn | ||||||||
20 m | 66 ft | ≤ 12.1 tn | ≤ 22.0 tn | ≤ 44.1 tn | ≤ 82.7 tn | ≤ 132.3 tn | ≤ 192.9 tn | |||||||
22 m | 72 ft | ≤ 7.7 tn | ≤ 14.3 tn | ≤ 36.4 tn | ≤ 71.7 tn | ≤ 121.3 tn | ≤ 176.4 tn | |||||||
24 m | 79 ft | ≤ 8.8 tn | ≤ 27.6 tn | ≤ 60.6 tn | ≤ 110.2 tn | ≤ 159.8 tn | ||||||||
26 m | 85 ft | ≤ 19.8 tn | ≤ 49.6 tn | ≤ 93.7 tn | ≤ 143.3 tn | |||||||||
28 m | 92 ft | ≤ 38.6 tn | ≤ 77.2 tn | ≤ 126.8 tn | ||||||||||
30 m | 98 ft | Use EN* | Use EN* | |||||||||||
Anchor | weight | 4 kg | 6 kg | 9 kg | 12 kg | 15 kg | 20 kg | 25 kg | 33 kg | 40 kg | 50 kg | 60 kg | 80 kg | 100 kg |
9 lb | 13 lb | 20 lb | 27 lb | 33 lb | 44 lb | 55 lb | 73 lb | 88 lb | 110 lb | 132 lb | 176 lb | 220 lb | ||
Suggested | chain G40 | 6 mm | 6 mm | 7 mm | 8 mm | 8 mm | 9 mm | 10 mm | 10 mm | 11 mm | 12 mm | 14 mm | 16 mm | 16 mm |
1/4″ | 1/4″ | 1/4″ | 5/16″ | 5/16″ | 5/16″ | 3/8″ | 3/8″ | 7/16″ | 7/16″ | 1/2″ | 5/8″ | 5/8″ |
Vessel | Length | |||||||||||||
4 m | 13 ft | ≤ 4400 lb | ||||||||||||
5 m | 16 ft | ≤ 2200 lb | ≤ 11000 lb | |||||||||||
6 m | 20 ft | ≤ 1100 lb | ≤ 7700 lb | ≤ 17600 lb | ||||||||||
7 m | 23 ft | ≤ 1100 lb | ≤ 4400 lb | ≤ 15400 lb | ≤ 22000 lb | |||||||||
8 m | 26 ft | ≤ 2200 lb | ≤ 13200 lb | ≤ 18700 lb | ≤ 28700 lb | |||||||||
9 m | 30 ft | ≤ 1100 lb | ≤ 11000 lb | ≤ 16500 lb | ≤ 24300 lb | ≤ 39700 lb | ||||||||
10 m | 33 ft | ≤ 8800 lb | ≤ 14300 lb | ≤ 20900 lb | ≤ 35300 lb | ≤ 55100 lb | ||||||||
11 m | 36 ft | ≤ 6600 lb | ≤ 12100 lb | ≤ 17600 lb | ≤ 30900 lb | ≤ 50700 lb | ||||||||
12 m | 39 ft | ≤ 9900 lb | ≤ 14300 lb | ≤ 24300 lb | ≤ 46300 lb | ≤ 75000 lb | ||||||||
14 m | 46 ft | ≤ 9900 lb | ≤ 15400 lb | ≤ 33100 lb | ≤ 57300 lb | ≤ 99200 lb | ||||||||
16 m | 52 ft | ≤ 8800 lb | ≤ 22000 lb | ≤ 44100 lb | ≤ 79400 lb | ≤ 132300 lb | ||||||||
18 m | 59 ft | ≤ 13200 lb | ≤ 35300 lb | ≤ 61700 lb | ≤ 110200 lb | ≤ 187400 lb | ||||||||
20 m | 66 ft | ≤ 24300 lb | ≤ 44100 lb | ≤ 88200 lb | ≤ 165300 lb | ≤ 264600 lb | ≤ 385800 lb | |||||||
22 m | 72 ft | ≤ 15400 lb | ≤ 28700 lb | ≤ 72800 lb | ≤ 143300 lb | ≤ 242500 lb | ≤ 352700 lb | |||||||
24 m | 79 ft | ≤ 17600 lb | ≤ 55100 lb | ≤ 121300 lb | ≤ 220500 lb | ≤ 319700 lb | ||||||||
26 m | 85 ft | ≤ 39700 lb | ≤ 99200 lb | ≤ 187400 lb | ≤ 286600 lb | |||||||||
28 m | 92 ft | ≤ 77200 lb | ≤ 154300 lb | ≤ 253500 lb | ||||||||||
30 m | 98 ft | Use EN* | Use EN* | |||||||||||
Anchor | weight | 4 kg | 6 kg | 9 kg | 12 kg | 15 kg | 20 kg | 25 kg | 33 kg | 40 kg | 50 kg | 60 kg | 80 kg | 100 kg |
9 lb | 13 lb | 20 lb | 27 lb | 33 lb | 44 lb | 55 lb | 73 lb | 88 lb | 110 lb | 132 lb | 176 lb | 220 lb | ||
Suggested | G40 chain | 6 mm | 6 mm | 7 mm | 8 mm | 8 mm | 9 mm | 10 mm | 10 mm | 11 mm | 12 mm | 14 mm | 16 mm | 16 mm |
1/4″ | 1/4″ | 1/4″ | 5/16″ | 5/16″ | 5/16″ | 3/8″ | 3/8″ | 7/16″ | 7/16″ | 1/2″ | 5/8″ | 5/8″ |
Our charts do not accommodate vessels requiring anchors larger than the Rocna Original 110 (243 lb) or Rocna Mk II 100 (220 lb). This is because of increasing complexities of the factors involved. Please enquire about larger Rocna anchor sizes.
Classification society rules and/or legal requirements may mandate anchor sizes for these vessels.
Rocna anchors may be sized by classification society rules for SHHP anchors. An SHHP type is usually permitted a mass 33% lighter than HHP types, or 50% lighter than “standard stockless” types. Classified sizing is based on a vessel’s type, purpose, and calculated Equipment Number (E.N.).
For more information, please consult the Rocna Knowledge Base articles on our sizing recommendations and classification and certification .
Unlike other manufacturers, our anchor sizing recommendations are intended to provide an anchor adequate for use in most all conditions. We base our calculations on 50 knots of wind, associated surge, and poor holding bottoms. For more on our philosophy and rationale, please consult our Knowledge Base article on our sizing recommendations.
This chart is a guideline only, so if you’d like further information please enquire with us for further advice.
We do not provide standard recommendations for boats larger than those for which the Rocna 110 (243 lb) would be the recommended size. This is because of increasing complexities of the factors involved.
Furthermore, classification society rules and/or legal requirements are likely to dictate the anchor sizes mandated for these vessels.
To confirm that which Rocna or Vulcan anchor will fit your vessel, there are a number of resources below to assist you.
Measurements important to the fitting of the anchor on a bow roller are reproduced on this sheet. Using these drawings and a tape measure, many boaters can easily determine that a Rocna or Vulcan will fit their boat.
Visit our Rocna Anchors Dimensions Page or Download as PDF here:
Rocna knowledge base.
The Rocna Knowledge Base features a large and ever-growing collection of “boat fit cases”, with photos and other information, under Rocna bow compatibility . Popular production boats are covered, and examples of other owners of your boat type successfully fitting a Rocna or Vulcan will allow you to invest with confidence.
Also included are articles and recommendations on the topic of custom bow roller assembly design .
Rocna anchors are intended to fit well on most vessels. The Rocna Mk II offers improved clearance vs the Rocna Original at the shank-end and the roll-bar. The Vulcan is specifically designed to fit a wider range of vessels with the omission of a roll-bar to clear anchor platforms, bowsprits, or prods.
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When sizing an anchor or anchor rode, it’s useful to have starting point and to think of the whole system. This is a table developed by American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) to approximate the expected load on the anchor and the anchor rode for given wind speed and boat length. The complete table appears in Section H-40 of ABYC’s Standards and Technical Reports for Small Craft available at abycinc.org. The below table was created more than 50 years ago and it is not clear exactly how it was derived. After comparing this data in this table to work that has been done since we come to the conclusion that the values presented here represent loads expected on the anchor rode if anchored on chain only without the use of the snubbing system. And using a line rode or and adequately designed snubber you can reduce the loads by a factor of 3, by eliminating the shock loads. This is an argument for why its so important to use a snubber but when sizing anchor rode or your anchor, it is important to consider loads as stated in the table. The reason is that we can not rely on the integrity of a snubber in a storm. Should the snubber fail, the integrity of the rode should be sufficient to handle the loads without the snubber.
The ABYC Horizontal Working Load (lbs) Table
Wind Speed (Knots) | – Feet | |||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
20 | 25 | 30 | 35 | 40 | 50 | 60 | ||
15 | Lunch Hook | 90 | 125 | 175 | 225 | 300 | 400 | 500 |
30 | Working | 360 | 490 | 700 | 900 | 1200 | 1600 | 2000 |
42 | Storm | 500 | 720 | 1400 | 1800 | 2400 | 3200 | 4000 |
60 | Violent Storm | 980 | 1440 | 2800 | 3600 | 4800 | 6400 | 8000 |
How do you intend to use your boat? Do you sail only on calm days with fair weather (Lunch Hook) or are you outfitting for an adventure (Storm) where you might be exposed to hazardous weather at anchor? For example, if you are outfitting a 35 foot boat for you should size the working rode and anchor to safely handle loads up to 1,800lbs if planning a cruising adventure, but the same margin of safety is not necessary if operating day trips from the safety of a marina.
When making sizing recommendations we are generally referring to the needs of a cruising boat spending most of its time on anchor, in doing so we try to envelope high sustained winds (45 kts) and assume poor holding conditions (low viscosity bottoms). Some may think these recommendations to be too conservative especially when compared to sizing tables from other manufacturers. Companies often make claims of superior anchor efficiency, stating that their small anchor X will outperform a much heavier anchor from their competitors and often use sizing charts as a marketing tool to that end, recommending anchors and anchor systems that are dangerously undersized for their intended use. Comparing surface area can be a good judge for potential holding capability. Our anchor sizing recommendations are presented in the table below:
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When looking for an anchor you want to make sure it digs in the first time, buries deep, has high holding power and holds when winds or currents shift.
For sailboats we have taken every bit of windage, shape and weight distribution into consideration. This all affects how the anchor launches, sets and re-sets.
We have a good range of sailboat anchors to suit all boating adventures, keeping your family safe and ensuring your anchoring experience is stress free.
The right sailboat anchor will depend on the type and size of your sailboat, where you plan to go sailing, and the weather conditions that you expect to encounter. If you are not sure which anchor is right for you, use our simple anchor calculator – link below.
12 Sizes: 5 - 150lbs
11 Sizes: 5 - 150lbs
10 Sizes: 2.2 - 35lbs
17 Sizes: 10 - 300lbs
What size anchor do i need, the manson anchor difference, why buy a manson anchor.
We are the experts in anchoring. We’ve been doing this since 1972, that’s almost 50 years’ experience making anchors. We are the desired anchor brand, chosen by serious boaters all over the world; from the rugged coastlines of Western Australia, to Florida and the Mediterranean. You are in safe hands.
We understand the unique challenges of anchoring and we know all boats are not equal, so we design and build anchors to suit every situation – from small craft through to superyachts. Don’t settle for a standard anchor. Get the anchor that will be perfect for your boating needs and keep you and your family safe.
Our anchors are proudly crafted in New Zealand by Lloyd’s Register approved welders using certified Lloyd’s Register approved materials in a specialist facility. They are not made cheaply in developing countries who have little respect for quality, the environment or what it means to anchor safely. This means you are buying a quality anchor that you can rely on.
We are trusted to make anchors for some of the best shipyards in the world who build exquisite superyachts and sophisticated defense vessels. This means that you’re buying the same brand selected by superyacht owners and their captains. Simply put, you are choosing an anchor from the world’s leading anchor brand. Anchor with the world’s best.
Auckland, new zealand.
Manson Anchors took a basic component of every boat, and considerably redesigned it to be not only aesthetically pleasing but a real feature on one of the best yachts in the world. This is a real skill and shows again New Zealanders’ ability to create a design that not only solves a problem but does so very eloquently indeed
New zealand.
We were just starting on our adventure, which turned into the most exciting six month trip I have ever undertaken. We travelled over 4000 nautical miles, completely circumnavigating New Zealand in the wake of Captain Cook. What was interesting in that in the whole of the six months we only spent 15 nights at sea. My aim was to see New Zealand, and we rock hopped visiting everywhere possible, and consequently anchoring most nights. I have a 35lb Manson Supreme holding a 35 foot catamaran, weighing 5 tons. We make a reasonable amount of windage. I felt that a 35lb looked a bit small, but in six months, on very varied types of bottoms there was not one night when we dragged. A marvellous anchor, that I would recommend to anyone.
My 15lb Manson Supreme provided a heroic task in holding my 6 ton yacht all night in hurricane conditions in a bay with bad press on its seabed. Needless to say my faith in these anchors is profound and their design and tenacity legendary. I would use no other.
I have toured the Manson factory on many occasions and have witnesses first-hand the quality of workmanship in full swing. The attention to detail they take in the selection of the metals, fabrication processes, welding and casting is amazing. Any vessel I own will always be fitted with a Manson Anchor.
Mississippi, usa.
I would like to tell you that 25LB Manson Supreme held my 23’ Pro Line Walk around like it was nothing. Where I anchored is a lot of sand, the anchor caught right away and the wind and waves that buffeted the boat around did not budge it. The fluke anchor I have would always slip, and I would have to reset the anchorage. I can safely say this is the best anchor I have ever had. I am so impressed I am looking into a smaller one for my stern (second) anchor.
Wellington, new zealand.
In the 6 & 1/2 years we have travelled more than 45,000 miles, visited 26 countries, and have anchored at least 1000 times. We have yet to use any other anchor than our Manson Plough. It has been totally reliable in thin coral sands, in mud and in the treacherous grasses of the Mediterranean. Most of our cruising friends changed their anchoring tackle after disastrous anchoring experiences in the Med. Many were using locally made anchors. We never needed to consider a new option. The Manson also coped well in areas with strong tidal flow, such as the amazon with it’s 7 knot current. We have had the chain re-galvanized twice in the course of our travels, but the anchor is only just requiring attention. Thanks to you folks at Manson for an anchor that has truly passed the test of time… and distance.
New providence, bahamas.
The Manson Supreme is reliable. Sets quickly, resets quickly, usually no more than the anchors length. Happy in mud, sand, grass. Best anchor we have ever had. Rode out hurricane Joaquin (25 miles west of the eye) anchor didn’t budge in sustained winds of 85 knots. We used this anchor as our main and storm anchor.
We were caught out at Wangaparpara in what I would call a cyclone. It caught us off guard. We had a lee shore, a short scope, in poor holding with only 2 meters under the keel. We had no time to put down a second anchor.
During the next two days we experienced extreme gusts coming off the hills with swell entering the Harbour. That evening there was 95 knots gusts recorded at Channel Island. Our boat is 48 foot, and has plenty of windage. She sails on her anchor. We would sail up, go broadside and then get laid over with the gusts and swell beam on. Your anchor did not budge. The first night I sat and anchor watched, but the second night I was more confident and I slept.
That night many boats dragged their moorings and ended up on the beach. Your Supreme Anchor is great insurance.
The Boss takes the performance of the Supreme and makes it conform to any bow-roller. The Boss works well on power and fishing boats that don’t work with the bow.
The winglets work as a bow-roller to ensure a reliable and quick setting anchor much like the Supreme.
This is an incredibly fast setting, high holding power anchor.
The holding power of the Manson Boss will help you stay on that perfect fishing spot regardless of the conditions.
The Manson Anchor will dig in first time so you can get lines over the side straight away.
The sliding shaft is a great feature that makes it so much easier to retrieve the anchor from foul ground.
It is so important for every fisherman to have a good anchor onboard, we recommended the Manson Boss to everyone!
Thanks to my Manson Supreme I survived Hurricane Sally in Florida. As winds reached 110mph there was an incredible amount of force at work, but my 80lb Manson Supreme held my Roberts DS440 steel sailboat, while I watched boats around me sink. I was very impressed and grateful. When the winds subsided, we found we had bent shackles and bent rollers, but the anchor was in perfect condition.
March 06, 2017 1 Comment
Choosing the right size boat anchor can depend on several things that we will cover in this section.
The conditions you will be in, and the manner in which you use your boat all determine how you should choose the right size boat anchor.
Generally if you have a boat 22' or less, you have several options, since you aren't likely to be out in 25-30 mph winds in that size boat - so our 7 lb, 10 lb, or 14 lb could be chosen for boats 22’ or less. But it is recommended that you carry the largest anchor you can feasibly fit on your boat.
-(1) Is this an offshore boat? Or for lakes, rivers, inland waters, etc? -(2) Will you anchor overnight, or just day trips - then back to shore? -(3) If the weather takes a turn for the worse, will you be close enough to head back to shore? Or will you ride out the storm on anchor? -(4) Are you anchoring in very deep water? If so, then perhaps using an anchor one size up would be best, and allow you to set the anchor even faster, and with less line.
When choosing the right size boat anchor, it is recommended to select it based on the 30 mph wind rating if it will be used as your primary front anchor.
The chart below can be used as a starting point based on your boat size. You can choose from several different models depending on the conditions you'll be in, and the storage space you have.
This anchor does require chain - also available for purchase with all our products .
- 7 lb anchor - our most compact model, generally for moderate conditions, and not heavy current - i.e. day trips on small bodies of water (boats up to 22') This anchor can also be used as a stern anchor for boats up to approximately 27 feet to prevent rear swing. (Never drop any anchor from the stern as the primary anchor facing into the wind or you risk taking on water)
- 10 lb anchor - for boats up to 19' in winds up to 30 mph. It’s a step up in size & weight, with a longer handle for penetrating hard bottoms. Generally boats in this size range have the smallest storage compartments in the bow, so storing it in a different compartment might be necessary. More info here on anchor storage.
- 14 lb anchor - for boats 20-27 ft in winds up to 30 mph. Typically boats in this size range have larger compartments, however the anchor lockers can still be narrow. You can also choose the folding rollbar model.
- 18 lb anchor - for boats 28-34 ft in winds up to 30 mph. Boats in this size usually have large anchor lockers, or the anchors are mounted on the bow with an anchor windlass, anchor roller, electric anchor winch, etc.
- 22 lb anchor - for boats 35-42 ft in winds up to 30 mph. These boats also usually always have the anchors mounted on the bow with an anchor windlass, anchor roller, or manual roller, etc.
If you have any questions about choosing the right size boat anchor, feel free to contact us via e-mail.
July 21, 2017
Thanks for sharing! It can help me choose the right size boat anchor.
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How much holding power does your boat anchor need.
July 31, 2017
June 09, 2017
May 07, 2017
Made in the usa, st. paul, mn.
© 2024 Hurricane Boat Anchors .
Find the perfect anchor for your boat with our comprehensive guide, including a size chart and photos. Make safe anchoring easy for every trip.
We put anchors on boats to keep the vessel safe and secure in a specific location and to manage the boat as best as possible during foul weather. Any old anchor will not suffice. You should have the right anchor – one that is the right size for the boat, that is made to work reliably based on the bed where it will rest, and it must be set properly with the appropriate supporting materials.
An anchor may weigh anywhere from 5 lbs to upwards of 2,000 lbs for non-commercial boats. Knowing how heavy an anchor should be is dependent on factors such as boat length, type of seabed/floor, type of boat. Weather conditions also play a role in determining the appropriate anchor size and type.
Right up there with life jackets, an anchor is a significant piece of safety hardware. Leaving the dock without an anchor is sheer lunacy and you’d be surprised at the number of times this actually happens. Always check to make sure there’s an anchor on board and, if you’re a prudent, savvy boater, you won’t leave the dock without two anchors.
Because folks like an instant answer, we’ve provided this anchor-sizing table as a resource. However, keep reading for more specific information and factors that will impact your final selection of an anchor. You’ll even see why we recommend having multiple anchors on your boat!
This chart provides information on suitable anchor sizes and types for different sized boats. Use the chart as a resource and in conjunction with the anchor manufacturer’s guidelines.
25 lbs | 30 lbs | 35 lbs | 40 lbs | 45 lbs | 50 lbs | 80 lbs | 120 lbs | 180 lbs | 200 lbs | 300 lbs | |
5 - 13lbs | 25 lbs | NA | NA | NA | NA | NA | NA | NA | NA | NA | |
25-50lbs | 250 lbs | 350 lbs | 400 lbs | 800 lbs | 1,000lbs | 2,000lbs | NA | NA | NA | NA | |
6 - 11 lbs | 22 lbs | 33 lbs | 44 lbs | 66 lbs | 66 lbs | 66 lbs | NA | NA | NA | NA | |
8 lbs | 16 lbs | 22 lbs | 33 lbs | 33-44 lbs | 44 lbs | NA | NA | NA | NA | NA |
Below, we'll dive into several different types of boat anchors and explain a bit about them. This will help you to understand why some are not useful on larger vessels.
A plough anchor slightly resembles a pickaxe in that it has a one-pointed penetration point at the end of the shank. Plough anchors can be hinged or unhinged.
With a hinged plough anchor, the shank can swing back and forth from the giant single, spade-shaped fluke. The hinge allows the chain to have a broader scope of motion. Hinged plough anchors receive mixed results from boaters. Some people think the hinge compromises the integrity of the anchor; others feel the opposite.
Unhinged plough anchors combine the angled, fluke design and weight of the overall anchor to hold a boat effectively. They set fast and are not often impacted by tides or the wind. The unhinged plough anchor will stow easily on common anchor rollers.
Regardless of hinged or unhinged, the spade-like fluke works well in hard, sandy, muddy, and weedy bottoms. If the bottom is too smooth or loose, a plough anchor may have the tendency to drag on a too-smooth bottom.
Perfect for inland and short-term use in areas with little current, a folding grapnel anchor looks like an opened flower with four petals. These four tines can hook to craggy, jagged bottoms, heavy weeds, coral, and stone. They are typically made of galvanized steel which has ample weight and is rust-resistant.
To use a folding grapnel, prior to putting it in the water, the petal-like grapnels are laid flat. Then a centerpiece is twisted into place. This locks the four tines in an outward position, perfect for gripping.
Typically, a grapnel is used by smaller boats, jet skis, and dinghies. Some boats have a grapnel on board for use as an emergency anchor.
As the name suggests, a mushroom anchor is shaped like the familiar fungus upside down. Best for waters with a delicate, sandy seabed, the mushroom anchor’s round head becomes buried in the sand.
They serve as ballast for smaller boats as well as kayaks and canoes. Some are vinyl-coated so as to minimize scratches and scrapes to the boat’s finish.
Extremely large mushroom anchors are actually used to secure oil rigs, lightships, and dredges, as they become deeply embedded into the seabed and have terrific holding power.
A newly engineered anchor, spades with roll bars offer extra holding power. The fluke’s weight rolls the anchor around the roll-bar so as to pivot the shank’s end.
These anchors tend to dig in fast and securely. Because of the roll bar, the spade anchors with this feature are not ideal for stowing on bow rollers.
Typically made out of aluminum, a reef anchor is uniquely flexible so as to be releasable from the anchored position. The tines actually bend so the anchor works well on rock bottoms, jetties, and reefs. That is because, with the right amount of pressure, the tines bend enough to slip free from the bottom.
Lightweight and easily stowed, the reef anchor is sometimes handmade and welded by do-it-yourself boaters. Watching a few reef anchor videos on YouTube is a good way to see exactly how these unique anchors work and how to DIY one for your own boat.
One distinction of a reef anchor is that often rather than hoisting them back up when you’re ready to leave, you simply drive the boat forward. This motion pulls the anchor enough to bend the tines, releasing it from its lodging. Don’t forget to bend the tines back into place before you use them the next time!
Because they are simply constructed, claw anchors tend to be less expensive than other anchor styles. Shaped like a hand grip, the anchor may tip any which way when deployed and properly set.
Originally designed to secure oil rigs in the North Sea, smaller versions are constructed of high-grade steel and suitable for most seabeds. A claw anchor is very suitable for an anchor roller platform for convenient stowing, ease of access, and use.
Compared to a plough anchor, a claw anchor will have a wider scoop shape. Like a plough anchor, it isn’t as effective on loose sand bottoms as it is on hard sand, muddy, and even rocky sea bottoms.
Somewhat similar to the plough anchor, because it swings or hinges (at a point called the tripping ring), the fluke anchor’s flukes look like two tall triangles secured to a rod perpendicular to the shaft. This rod, known as the stock, extends beyond each of the triangular flukes.
Referred to as a Danforth or lightweight anchor as well, the fluke anchor is by far the most popular type of anchor. Smaller boats will often use a fluke anchor as their one and only anchor. A fluke anchor is lightweight which is always nice.
Because it folds flat, it stows nicely and neatly. Flukes anchor well in both mud and sand but not so much in rocky and grassy beds. This is because of the stock – the long metal rod that connects the two flukes. It extends beyond the flukes. The two end points of the rod are prone to fouling on both the rocks and the anchor rode.
For a rough seabed, the gap that is present between the flukes enables better grip-ability. The flukes’ orientation is changeable; however, 30 degrees is the angle recommended for best grip success.
A solid one-piece design makes the wing anchor a very popular choice for boat manufacturers’ standard equipment. It has excellent holding power, better than that of a plough anchor, and sets easily on most bottom types. Wing anchors will fit most bow rollers and are also self-launching.
Because a wing anchor has a higher ratio of holding power to weight, boaters can get away with a less weightier anchor than other plow anchors.
The primary factors affecting an anchor’s suitability for a specific boat includes the size of that boat, the type of boat, and the environment in which the anchor will be used, including the seabed or lake floor and the current. Other considerations include wind conditions and the actual type of anchor.
Most anchors come with size guidelines for use supplied by the manufacturer of the anchor. Make sure you pay attention to this. When in doubt, it is usually a good idea to go up in size. Erring on choosing the larger size when it comes to anchors is rarely an error.
Seriously, don’t skimp on size. Take it up a size (or two) and know that you’re purchasing extra peace of mind. This will make sleep come a bit easier as you’re rolling back and forth in your bunk when the wind begins to howl your first night away from the dock.
Anchors have a variety of features or factors that make them different from one another in terms of suitability for a boat. Let’s take a look at each of those factors next.
Your boat’s specifications including length and weight (as well as design type) influence the kind of anchor you will need to use. Boats may be the same length but vastly different in weight so boat length alone should not be considered. A boat that weighs 10,000 pounds that is 30’ in length will require more anchor than another 30’ boat that is only 6,000 pounds.
Review the anchor size chart we have included in this article. Consider boat size and weight of the boat too. Always check with the anchor manufacturer’s recommendations too.
Relative to the size of the boat, an anchor may be of lighter weight or heavier weight. Measured in pounds, anchors can weigh from 5 lbs (for a jon boat or small skiff/dinghy) to hundreds of pounds for a large recreational boat (sailboat, cabin cruiser) in the 100+’ range.
An anchor must be light enough to be lifted by a person (or anchor lift) from the bottom of the floor. It should be able to be tossed overboard without being so cumbersome as to compromise the boater’s safety. The anchor must be heavy enough to handle the upward pull from the boat.
These days, as anchor design has improved, anchor weight isn’t always the predominant factor, but it certainly remains an important one.
Because people use watercraft in so many different environments, some discussion of seabeds is needed. Seabeds can be sandy. They can be muddy. Others will be rocky. Others will be weedy. A nice, hard sandy bottom is a terrific place for most anchors to dig securely.
For boaters who spend time in shallow estuaries or at river deltas, muddy seabeds are the norm. Often, beneath the soft mud, there is a layer of clay or hard-packed sand. This second layer is good because it gives the anchor something to bite into.
If an anchorage is comprised of a thick, soft, muddy bottom, this can present a problem. It’s challenging for an anchor to dig and take hold in deep mud, leading to dragging which is something no one wants to have happen.
The penetration of the anchor is what fastens it to the floor. Hard sand bottoms are ideal for penetration. Weedy bottoms and soft mud floors are less than ideal for gripping. When gripping is challenged, having a weightier anchor is crucial.
Before making an anchor purchase or when checking the anchor before heading out, give some thought to where you’ll be anchoring and what the seabed is going to be like.
Holding power is a rating system for anchors. Holding power measures the ability of an anchor to hold a specific weight. Because of the physics of boats on water and the energy that a boat pulling against water can create, holding power needs can fluctuate.
While a boat may be fine on a serene day on the water, the holding power needs might double or triple for that same boat when skies turn dark, winds howl, and water churns violently.
Essentially, holding power ratings result from measuring the pull force an anchor should withstand to keep a certain sized boat in place. Different anchors dig differently. Bottoms of bodies of water vary widely. Anchor shapes fluctuate purposefully. Digging, bottom type, anchor shape. They all affect the tenacity of an anchor’s holding power.
A good rule of thumb is that the length of the line should be at least seven to ten times the depth of the water where you are setting anchor. Anchoring in 10’ of water? Plan on having 70 – 100 feet of anchor line in place.
The system that connects the anchor to the boat is collectively referred to as anchor rode. The integrity and sturdiness of the mooring depends on the integrity and sturdiness of the anchor rode.
The length of the rode is impacted by the upward pull on the anchor. If the boat is directly above the anchor (less rode), then the energy of the boat is going to yank the anchor more easily from its grip.
With more rode, the energy on the line and chain is distributed and less intense so there is a gentler pull on the anchor. Again, take the depth of the water and multiply it by 7 to 10 times in order to gauge the length of your anchor rode.
More rode typically means better holding. That is because a horizontal pull of the anchor is much much better than a vertical pull. Think of how when you weigh anchor, you get as close to it as possible.
There is less rode and you’re able to pull the anchor up more easily. When you want your anchor to hold, give it plenty of rode. Otherwise, your anchor may lift up off the bottom or at the very least drag along the bottom.
Aside from the previously mentioned weight considerations noted relative to boat length and weight, , one aspect of weight to consider is not the weight of just one anchor but two. It’s a very good idea to have one substantial anchor for normal to rough conditions.
Having a second anchor, lighter and simpler in design, used for calm water and as a backup anchor is wise. An extra anchor, one of a different weight and/or different type, is a good boating practice.
Unless you are a kayaker or on a very small body of water, a chain should be a part of your anchor system. The chain is highly critical for several reasons.
An anchor with a chain sets much faster and more securely. This happens because the weight of the chain pulls down on the anchor shank. Chains also help the rode lay horizontally, as opposed to being pulled upward, loosening the anchor.
Chains are protective of the rope (nylon or otherwise, helping avoid sharp things like reefs that can cut the line, resulting in a lost anchor and a boat adrift.
When the need arises, having an anchor that is reliable, sturdy, and correctly deployed can provide peace of mind that is truly priceless. For this reason, anchor size definitely matters. Never skimp on a too-small anchor (or anchors) for your boat, whether you own the boat, or are borrowing it or renting it.
Check to make sure there’s an anchor on board every time. When borrowing or renting, inspect the anchor to make certain it’s suitable for the location where you’re likely to anchor and for the size of the boat.
As noted previously, when in doubt with anchor size, go up. Increase the weight of the anchor. Be a prudent boater by recognizing the critical safety and security role that is played by your anchor. Respect size and type of anchor for the various seabed environments in which you’ll be boating.
Kit Evans is a seasoned marine journalist and naval architect, bringing over 20 years of multifaceted experience in the boating industry to his writing and consultancy work. With expertise ranging from boat design and marine surveying to charter operations and vessel restoration, Kit offers unparalleled insights into all aspects of maritime life. When he's not penning articles for top boating publications or hosting his popular YouTube channel, Kit can be found sailing his lovingly restored 1960s Columbia 29 on the Chesapeake Bay, embodying his commitment to both preserving nautical heritage and embracing modern innovations in boating.
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There are a number of boat anchors available, constructed of different materials, and often with confusing names. This article will discuss the most popular types of boat anchors, how to choose the best anchor for your boat, the most common material types, and also give an overview of different naming conventions.
Our video below introduces many of the anchor types discussed here, although the article discusses a few more anchor types and provides some useful links.
For most boaters , a Bruce or Delta is the best balance between price and performance. Both perform similarly and are similarly priced (Narrowly, the Bruce/Claw is our favorite of the three). If you've used a Danforth in the past , and you have had luck with it, choose a Danforth. If you've never used one before and if your setup allows it, choose a Bruce or Delta instead. If you're a blue-water cruiser , choose a CQR, or consider one of the new generation of anchors discussed below.
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A special note is needed on the naming of anchors. Many anchors have a trademarked name, such as a Bruce or CQR, and a generic name like Claw or Plow. This is the same as how Xerox is a trademarked name for photocopier and how Aspirin is a trademarked name for pain killer. Trademarks effectively never expire whereas design patents expire after approximately 20-25 years. Therefore, manufacturers are free to clone an anchor design that has an expired patent but cannot use the trademarked name.
The Bruce, or Claw, remains one of the most popular anchors among recreational boaters in North America. This is our anchor of choice as well.
The Bruce was developed in the 70s by the Bruce Anchor Group. Once their patent expired in the early 2000s, they stopped production of this anchor but many imitations have come along since.
The Bruce is an excellent all-purpose anchor as it performs well in most sea bottoms including mud, sand, rock, and coral. It has a harder time penetrating harder surfaces, such as clay, and bottoms with heavy grass. The three-claw design sets more easily than other anchors. It also resets easily if it is ever broken loose. On the downside, the Bruce has a lower holding power per pound than other anchors, meaning you’ll usually need a larger anchor than say the Delta/Wing .
Pros: Performs well in most conditions. Sets easily. Cons: Awkward one piece design. Lower holding power per pound. Bottoms: Performs well in most bottoms; Struggles in hard bottoms such as clay, or heavy grass.
Both the CQR/Plow and the Delta/Wing are a plow style anchor. The most significant difference between these anchors is the fact that the CQR has a hinged design whereas the Delta is a one piece design.
The CQR is one of the oldest styles, dating back to the 30s and to this day, it remains one of the most popular anchors among blue water cruisers. Despite this, it has relatively low holding power and it consistently struggles in independent tests. It’s also rare to find a CQR under 25 lbs lending itself to the saying “There’s no such thing as a small CQR”. Despite these shortcomings, the hinged design makes it more responsive to wind and tide changes as compared to other anchors.
The Delta is arguably the most popular anchor on boats today, and is the standard anchor of choice used by most boat manufacturers. It has a good holding power per pound (about 50% more than the Bruce).
Both the Delta and the CQR perform well in most bottoms, struggling the most in rock.
Pros: Performs well in most conditions. Fits most bow rollers. Cons: Hinged design can make stowage awkward. "No such thing as a small CQR/Plow anchor". Bottoms : Performs well in most bottoms; struggles in rock.
The Danforth , or Fluke anchor, remains a very popular anchor choice. The Fortress is also a popular Fluke style anchor, different from the Danforth in that it comes apart and it constructed of light-weight, high-strength, aluminum.
The Fluke performs well in mud and sand, potentially the best of any anchor style. The downside is that outside of these bottoms, it is not a good performer. Therefore, it is a mud/sand only anchor, which fortunately is what most bottoms are comprised of.
Whether or not it is used as a primary anchor, a Fluke anchor makes an excellent choice as a secondary or stern anchor.
Pros: Performs well in mud and sand. Stows easily on most bow rollers. Cons: Does not perform well outside of mud/sand. Bottoms : Top performer in mud/sand. Performs poorly in other bottoms.
There are several anchors on the market today that feature a sharp fluke and a roll bar. These include the Rocna and Manson Supreme.
Each of these anchors are essentially a variation on a plow style anchor. If you look at the plow portion of these anchors, you can see they are a lot sharper than traditional plows like the Delta/Wing and CQR. Analogous to a knife through butter, these anchors can penetrate the sea bottom a lot easier and deeper than the other anchor styles, hence the name for these anchors: "spade". The roll bar helps orient the anchor upright when setting.
These anchors have performed extremely well in third party tests . The biggest downside to these anchors is that because they are still patented, they can be very expensive. The roll bar along with the elongated fluke can also make storing these anchors on bow rollers difficult.
Pros: Very high holding power for many models. Cons: Difficult to stow on a bow roller. Expense. Bottoms : Performs well in most bottoms; less effective in rock
A Grapnel anchor is generally used for small boats such as Kayaks, Dinghies, Canoes, etc. It’s also popular with fishermen.They fold up very compactly and are easy to stow. A Grapnel’s holding power comes from hooking onto another object, such as a rock. When it does hook, it can create immense holding power, which can also make retrieving the anchor difficult.
Pros: Great for use as a lunch hook. Folds to allow for compact storage. Cons: Not appropriate for non-temporary anchorage. Bottoms: Rock or other situations when it can hook onto an object.
Large Mushroom anchors are often used for permanent mooring buoys. As the silt from the sea-bottom builds up over these anchors, it can result in extreme holding power, up to 10 times the holding power of its actual weight. As a mooring buoy, the mushroom anchor is an excellent choice, however, it is not as useful in some temporary anchoring situations. An exception is that smaller versions of these anchors are good for use in small boats for anchoring while fishing or for a lunch stop over silty bottoms where the mushroom can penetrate.
Pros: If large, great for permanent mooring buoys. If small, good for use while fishing or for a lunch stop. Cons: If large, not appropriate for non-permanent moorings. If small, only good in soft bottoms. Bottoms: Silt, soft mud, unpacked sand.
Boat anchors come in a variety of types, the most popular being mild steel, high-tensile steel, stainless steel, and aluminum.
Most of the traditional steel anchors we are accustomed to seeing are likely either mild or high tensile steel. Mild steel and high-tensile steel are nearly indistinguishable from one another appearance wise. However, high tensile steel is 2-3 times stronger than mild steel. This isn't to say that a high-tensile steel boat anchor has 2-3 times the holding power of its mild steel counterpart, but it will nonetheless be stronger.
Both mild steel and high-tensile steel anchors are not corrosion resistant, and therefore need to be galvanized to prevent rust and other corrosion. All steel anchors (except stainless) should be galvanized. Galvanization has a tendency to wear down over time, but an anchor (as well as nearly any other steel product) can be re-galvanized.
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Stainless steel is identical to galvanized steel in terms of holding power but differs significantly in appearance. The shiny gloss is essentially the only difference between stainless steel and galvanized steel. Stainless steel is also very corrosion resistant and will resist most rusting over time. You will often see manufacturers describing stainless steel as either 316 Stainless or 304 Stainless. 316 is a different chemical composition than 304 and is more corrosion resistant. It also more expensive.
There are some anchors constructed from high strength aluminum, such as the Fortress. These anchors are extremely lightweight while still offering high holding power. These anchors rely on bottom penetration for most of the holding power, and therefore, if they are not set, they provide little to no holding power.
Published May 08, 2018
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Boat anchor size recommendations are for boats of average windage and proportions in 30 knots of wind, average bottom conditions, and moderate protection from open seas. Remember that the loads in 42 knots of wind are twice as much as in 30 knots.
Use three-strand nylon rope, 6-12 ft (2-4 m) of chain and a minimum of 5:1 scope. Also, a minimum of 6 ft (2 m) of chain should be used for every 25 ft (8 m) of water depth. For storm conditions use an anchor one or two sizes larger.
Mobile users please scroll to the right to find your boat length and anchor model selection.
Boat Length | ft | 28'-32' | 33'-38' | 39'-45' | 46'-51' | 52'-58' | 59'-68' | 69'-89' | ||
m | 5-8m | 8-10m | 10-12m | 12-14m | 14-15m | 16-18m | 18-21m | 21-27.1m | 27.4-46m | |
Fortress Model | FX-7 | FX-11 | FX-16 | FX-23 | FX37 | FX-55 | FX-85 | FX-115 | ||
Weight | lb (kg) | 4 (1.8) | 7 (3.2) | 10 (4.5) | 15 (6.8) | 21 (9.5) | 32 (14.4) | 47 (21.2) | 60 (27.2) | 69 (31.1) |
Replaces Steel Anchors | lb | 6-9 | 10-13 | 14-18 | 19-28 | 33-50 | 50-65 | 70-90 | 90-100 | 100-170 |
kg | 3-4 | 5-6 | 6-8 | 9-13 | 15-23 | 23-29 | 32-41 | 42-44 | 45-77 | |
HOLDING POWER | ||||||||||
Working Load | lb | 700 | 900 | 1,250 | 2,000 | 3,000 | 4,000 | 5,250 | 6,000 | 6,750 |
kg | 318 | 408 | 567 | 907 | 1,361 | 1,814 | 2,381 | 2,721 | 3,062 | |
32° Hard Sanding Holding | lb | 2,800 | 3,600 | 5,000 | 8,000 | 12,000 | 16,000 | 21,000 | 24,000 | 27,000 |
kg | 1,270 | 1,633 | 2,268 | 3,629 | 5,443 | 7,258 | 9,526 | 10,886 | 12,247 | |
45° Soft Mud Holding | lb | 840 | 1,080 | 1,500 | 2,400 | 3,600 | 4,800 | 6,300 | 7,200 | 8,100 |
kg | 381 | 490 | 680 | 1,089 | 1,633 | 2,177 | 2,858 | 3,265 | 3,674 | |
32° Soft Mud Holding | lb | 420 | 540 | 750 | 1,200 | 1,800 | 2,400 | 3,150 | 3,600 | 4,050 |
kg | 191 | 245 | 340 | 544 | 816 | 1,089 | 1,429 | 1,633 | 1,837 | |
DIMENSIONS | ||||||||||
"A" Shank Length | in (mm) | 24" (610) | 27" (686) | 31" (787) | 36" (914) | 40" (1,016) | 46" (1,168) | 51" (1,295) | 51" (1295) | 56" (1,422) |
"B" Fluke Length | in (mm) | 14" (356) | 16" (406) | 18" (457) | 21" (533) | 24" (610) | 27" (686) | 30" (762) | 33" (838) | 33" (838) |
"C" Stock Length | in (mm) | 19" (483) | 22" (559) | 25" (635) | 29" (737) | 32" (813) | 37" (940) | 41" (1,041) | 45" (1,143) | 45" (1,143) |
SUPPORT HARDWARE | ||||||||||
Proof Coil Chain | in (mm) | 3/16" (5) | 1/4" (6) | 5/16" (8) | 3/8" (9) | 3/8" (9) | 1/2" (13) | 1/2" (13) | 1/2" (13) | 1/2" (13) |
Nylon Rope ** | in (mm) | 3/8" (9) | 3/8" (9) | 1/2" (13) | 5/8" (16) | 3/4" (19) | 7/8" (22) | 1" (25) | 1 1/4" (32) | 1 1/4" (32) |
Shackle Size | in (mm) | 1/4" (6) | 1/4" (6) | 5/16" (8) | 3/8" (10) | 7/16" (12) | 1/2" (12) | 5/8" (16) | 5/8" (16) | 5/8" (16) |
Note: Hard sand holding power figures above represent loads actually achieved on production Fortress and Guardian anchors under controlled horizontal pull conditions without dragging or resulting in disabling structural deformation.
Have questions? Check out our frequently asked questions page.
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With so much investment literally riding on your anchor, your boat's anchoring system is no place to cut corners. your choice of anchor depends on the size and type of your boat, and the weather and anchoring conditions you generally encounter..
Boats with heavy displacements or superstructures that present a great deal of wind resistance need heavier gear. The same is true of cruising yachts that brave a wide variety of conditions and may sometimes have to anchor in open waters.
Although not required by Federal Law, it is recommended you carry one anchor of sufficient size and strength to hold your boat for an extended period, like overnight--or in an emergency situation, such as if you run out of gas. When you are thinking or buying an anchor - BIGGER IS BETTER.
Also, there is safety in numbers. No anchor will work for you in every situation, so if you have space carry two anchors--preferably of different types.Many people choose to carry a small anchor, or "lunch hook", and a larger working or storm anchor. The lunch hook is for use in calm weather and when the crew is monitoring the anchor. Working and storm anchors are useful at times when the crew is asleep or ashore, and during heavy weather, when winds are 30 miles an hour and over.
The general name for all of the equipment you need to anchor your boat is "ground tackle". This includes an anchor, chain, line and connecting elements. The anchor line, including chain, is called the rode.
Just as boats come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, so do anchors. Choosing an anchor is easy, choosing the right one for your boat can be very difficult. Your first task in choosing an anchor is to have an understanding of three things:
Anchors are rated by "holding power"--which is the ability of an anchor to hold a given weight. Keep in mind that a 10,000 pound boat may only require an anchor with a holding power of a few hundred pounds on a calm day, but may need 1,000 pounds of holding power or more on a stormy day.
There are several types of anchors and you should choose a style based on the bottom characteristics in the areas you will anchor most often. Then, choose a size based on the size and weight of your boat.
Lightweight type anchor with two long pivoting "flukes"; designed to reduce clogging with mud and grass; range from 2.5 pounds to nearly 200 pounds, and are generally made of cast galvanized metal, though some models are machined from a light-weight aluminum composite. When dropped, flukes dig the anchor into the bottom and the anchor buries itself and part of the anchor line.
Commonly used on small recreational boats, as they are relatively light weight for the amount of holding power they provide, especially in comparison to other anchors. Best in hard sand or mud, where flukes can easily dig into the bottom.
Not recommended for very soft or loose mud, which can ball up around the flukes; or on rocky bottoms where the flukes cannot penetrate. Also not recommended for grassy bottoms, which the flukes tend to slip off.
A more traditional style anchor with arks, flukes and stock. Good in heavy grass, weeds, rocky bottoms or hard sand where one arm can penetrate a crevice. Not good in mud or loose sand, where flukes can't dig in.
Functions differently than previous anchors as it is not a burying anchor; one arm digs into bottom and one lies exposed. Generally only used by very large ships, as it relies on weight for most of the holding power; not really suitable for recreational use other than for a lunch hook.
Very inexpensive, but not much holding power. Some models are made of bent re-bar, others are made of galvanized metal and have folding flukes. Good for recovering items on the bottom, or for wreck reef anchoring. Commonly used on very small boats such as canoes or jon boats.
The plow styles' good holding power over a wide variety of bottom types makes it a top choice of cruising boaters. Has either a fixed (Delta style) or a pivoting (CQR) shank.
When dropped in the water, a plow lands on its side, then when pulled, buries itself. Its shape allows it to reset fairly easily should the wind or tide shift the boat position.
Great in sand and on rocky bottoms, weeds and grass. Does not do well in soft bottoms. Generally made of galvanized metal, though they are available in stainless steel.
Unique shape of the claw allows a 360 degree turn without breaking out. Has similar performance to plow anchors,at a lower weight.
Sets just like a plow, but curved flukes make it easier for a claw to right itself no matter how it lands on the bottom, or how much the boat gets swung around.
Mushroom anchors get their name from, as you might imagine, their rounded, mushroom shape. Mushroom anchors are used extensively for moorings, and can weigh several thousand pounds for this use.
The shape works best in soft bottoms, where it can create a suction that can be difficult to break. Decent for very small boats to use as a lunch hook, but not practical for larger boats. Both Buoys and Beacons may have lights attached, and may have a sound making device such as a gong, bell or horn. Both Buoys and Beacons may be called "marks".
Depending upon the size and type of your boat, and where you anchor--your choices for an anchor line are either an all-rope anchor rode, a combination of rope and chain, or all chain.
Three-strand line can absorb shock and the constant tugging associated with anchoring much better than braided line or chain alone. Chain may also be used, especially in anchorages that are primarily rock or coral, which may cut a nylon line. A length of chain should be used between the anchor and a longer length of line. The chain will add weight to set your anchor without making it too heavy to lift manually, while serving to exert a horizontal pull on the anchor to set it.
Nylon Three-Strand line is the leading choice for use as an anchoring line. Lines generally come in a "soft" or "medium" lie. Soft lines are generally softer to the touch, and loosely woven. These aren't as good as medium or hard lines for anchoring, as they are more prone to unraveling and chafing. Tightly wrapped lines are the best choice for anchoring.
Lines that have been treated with a wax-like coating are available. These lines help the line resist water/salt absorption. To help keep your lines in good shape, clean them from time to time by soaking them in soapy water. Never use bleach, as it can break down the line.
Chain may be used instead of nylon line for anchoring. Chain has several benefits, including added weight, chafe and wear resistance, and high strength. It also lowers the angle of pull on the anchor, which helps it to set more firn\mly into the bottom.
Chain is generally found made of galvanized steel, though you can find stainless steel and vinyl coated chain, which is designed to be non-marring to your deck.
Chain comes in three general varieties: "Proof Coil" is the most common, and is adequate for most marine uses. "BBB" ("Triple B" or "3B") chain has thicker, shorter links than proof chain. BBB is slightly stronger than proof chain, and is generally used for windlasses. Finally, "Hi-Test" chain is made of hardened steel, and is stronger and lighter than proof coil. Hi-test chain is favored by those wishing to avoid carrying too much weight.
Combination anchor-rodes consist of both chain and nylon line. You may buy a combination rode, or you may make one yourself. Generally, it is recommended to have either one foot of chain for each foot of boat length, or to have one pound of chain for each pound of anchor length. Which ever method you choose, having more chain than necessary is never a bad idea.
As the saying goes, a chain is only as strong as its' weakest link...Make sure that your anchor and line are attached to each other with adequate gear. Some lines come with plastic thimbles or eyes--but metal, either marine-grade stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized steel, is best. Swivels and shackles should be inspected regularly for wear, and to ensure that the connections are tight and functional.
Scope: Length of the anchor line/ height of the deck cleat to the sea bed.
Before leaving the dock, you will need to determine how much anchor line, or "rode", you will need. It is recommended that you use a scope of 7:1, meaning that for every foot of water depth, you should use 7 feet of rode.
For example, to anchor in 10 feet of water, you would pay out 70 feet of line. Measure the scope as the ratio of the length of the anchor rode to the height of the bow above the bottom. If you're using a lightweight anchor on a small boat in good weather conditions, a shorter scope of 5:1 is sufficient and safe. A prudent boater always has extra line and chain on hand, just in case.
Suggested holding sizes assume fair holding ground, scope of at least 5:1 to 10:1, and moderate shelter from high seas.
Boats that operate generally in shallow waters, as on the East Coast of the United States, may get by with shorter rode lengths. As the wind picks up, deploying additional line will help maintain position, as will tossing out an extra anchor.
Anchoring can be accomplished quickly and easily by following a few simple steps.
It's a good idea to take two immediate bearings. Select two items, one off each beam, that form a natural range and watch for any changes in their relationship. You can check these later to determine if you're boat is swinging as expected or if you're dragging anchor.
One of the best ways to avoid the hassles of anchoring is to chose a cove or harbor with moorings available for your use. Mooring balls are identified by their white spherical or can shape, and having a blue horizontal band. It may have a number designation, a VHF contact # or name on it. You will typically have to pay a small fee to the harbor master to use a public mooring, but you can count on it being far cheaper than paying for dockage for the night.
Public moorings are professionally maintained and will use a large anchor or helix screw fixture to maintain position. The harbor master will let you know if the weight or length of your boat is too big for that particular mooring. Although moorings are typically more secure than anchors, moorings can and do periodically give way. For this reason, and for the obvious courtesy reasons, you should never pick up and use a mooring that does not belong to you.
Common Anchoring Mistakes
Finally, never ever anchor a small boat by the stern! Your engine, and the bulk of the boat's weight rest here. Stern anchoring is likely to result in swamping and flooding.
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Much to our surprise, the weight recommendations for the new designs, Rocna, Excel, Supreme, etc. are very similar to the weight recommendation for the older, traditional models, CQR, Delta, Bruce etc. In both cases, the recommendation for a 35-foot yacht is approximately a 30-pound anchor. The exceptions are aluminum anchors from Fortress and ...
N/A. Source: Anchor sizing chart on Spade Anchor USA. You'll see a boat length of 53' puts us at 59ft. and a 55 pound galvanized anchor. But by vessel weight, for 54,000 lbs., the recommended weight is 99 pounds. So the larger of the two is 99 lbs., so that is the proper weight for this boat.
Likewise, the 6 ft chain for every 25 ft of water depth rule is also the golden standard. Moreover, anchors require at least one ft of chain every one ft of boat length for maximum efficiency. Up your boat anchor size, regardless of the manufacturer's recommendation, if you relate to any of the following scenarios.
Fluke anchors have a rotating bar that connects the anchor to the line. Their forward-heavy profile allows the flukes to drive straight down into sand or mud. As line is laid out, the bar swivels into a horizontal position, providing good scope. Boat Size: 30 feet or less. Best For: Lakes, rivers, mud and sand.
Our anchor calculator will recommend the best anchor for your boat based on the type of boat, its size and weight and the sort of boating activity you are wanting to do. Select your preferred measurement scale (metric or imperial) and then follow the path. ... (High Holding Power) anchor and is available in approved sizes from 5kg - 1000kg ...
Sizing an anchor for your boat reinforces, with some limits, the "bigger is better" idea. If your engine fails and you are drifting toward a lee shore, having a properly sized anchor ready could save your boat. But raising the anchor by hand, with no electric powered windlass, calls for light and efficient ground tackle (and a strong back).
Fortress Quote - "Boat anchor size recommendations are for boats of average windage and proportions in 30 knots of wind, average bottom conditions, and moderate protection from open seas. Remember that the loads in 42 knots of wind are twice as much as in 30 knots.". Spade Aluminium - Length and Displacement.
Performs poorly in other bottoms. The chart below lists the recommended Fluke/Danforth Anchor Size for various lengths of boats. The anchor sizing chart below assumes average boat characteristics in average anchoring conditions. If you have an exceptionally heavy boat or are anchoring in exceptional conditions (typically greater than Gale force ...
To find the best-suited anchor size for your boat, measure its overall length and use this information as a starting point to narrow down your search. 2. Boat Weight. Although boat length is an essential factor in anchor sizing, boat weight should also be taken into account. The heavier the boat, the more holding power required from the anchor.
Selection Guide. Boat anchor size recommendations are for boats of average windage and proportions in 30 knots of wind, average bottom conditions, and moderate protection from open seas. Remember that the loads in 42 knots of wind are twice as much as in 30 knots. Use three-strand nylon rope, 6-12 ft (2-4 m) of chain and a minimum of 5:1 scope.
Anchor Weight. Anchors are typically sized by weight, ranging from a few pounds for small vessels to several hundred pounds for large yachts. The rule of thumb is that the heavier the boat, the heavier the anchor should be. However, it's important to consider the type of anchor you're using, as the holding power varies across anchor designs.
To choose the correctly sized Rocna or Vulcan anchor for your boat, follow the chart and instructions. Anchor Sizing Guide. For Multihulls: use the chart as instructed, then select the model one size larger. ... Unlike other manufacturers, our anchor sizing recommendations are intended to provide an anchor adequate for use in most all ...
Anchor Sizing. When sizing an anchor or anchor rode, it's useful to have starting point and to think of the whole system. This is a table developed by American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) to approximate the expected load on the anchor and the anchor rode for given wind speed and boat length. The complete table appears in Section H-40 of ...
66 LB, Boat Length: 57-70'. Pros: One of the highest holding powers per pound. Performs well in most conditions. Fits most bow rollers.Cons: Struggles in rock.Bottoms: Performs well in most bottoms; Struggles in rock. The chart below lists the recommended Wing/Delta Anchor Size for various lengths of boats. The anchor sizing chart below assumes a.
The right sailboat anchor will depend on the type and size of your sailboat, where you plan to go sailing, and the weather conditions that you expect to encounter. ... link below. ANCHOR CALCULATOR Sailboat Anchor Range. Supreme Anchor (SHHP) 12 Sizes: 5 - 150lbs. From $ 134.99 - $ 4,999.99; Boss Anchor. 11 Sizes: 5 - 150lbs. From $ 179.99 ...
More info here on anchor storage. - 14 lb anchor - for boats 20-27 ft in winds up to 30 mph. Typically boats in this size range have larger compartments, however the anchor lockers can still be narrow. You can also choose the folding rollbar model. - 18 lb anchor - for boats 28-34 ft in winds up to 30 mph. Boats in this size usually have large ...
A boat that weighs 10,000 pounds that is 30' in length will require more anchor than another 30' boat that is only 6,000 pounds. Review the anchor size chart we have included in this article. Consider boat size and weight of the boat too. Always check with the anchor manufacturer's recommendations too.
The Delta is arguably the most popular anchor on boats today, and is the standard anchor of choice used by most boat manufacturers. It has a good holding power per pound (about 50% more than the Bruce). Both the Delta and the CQR perform well in most bottoms, struggling the most in rock. Pros: Performs well in most conditions.
Fortress Selection Guide. Boat anchor size recommendations are for boats of average windage and proportions in 30 knots of wind, average bottom conditions, and moderate protection from open seas. Remember that the loads in 42 knots of wind are twice as much as in 30 knots. Use three-strand nylon rope, 6-12 ft (2-4 m) of chain and a minimum of 5 ...
CLASSIFICATION RULES SIZING FOR LARGER ANCHORS. Rocna anchors may be sized by classi cation society rules for SHHP anchors. An SHHP type is usually permitted a mass 33% lighter than HHP types, or 50% lighter than stockless. Classi ed sizing is based on a vessel's type, purpose, and calculated Equipment Number (E.N.).
Back. Find the best anchor size for your boat with our insightful blog. From easy-to-read anchor size charts to understanding key factors like weight and boat length, we cover everything you need to know to.
For a storm anchor, this boat would need a 70 pound anchor, or 2X her baseline plow weight (35 X 2). ***** Use these sailing tips to choose the right marine anchor size for your small cruising sailboat. Make your decision on more than just boat size for confident, worry-free anchoring--wherever in the world you choose to cruise!
Then, choose a size based on the size and weight of your boat. Lightweight or "Danforth" Anchors Lightweight type anchor with two long pivoting "flukes"; designed to reduce clogging with mud and grass; range from 2.5 pounds to nearly 200 pounds, and are generally made of cast galvanized metal, though some models are machined from a light-weight ...