sailboat anchor size chart

Boat Anchor Selection Guide: Choose the Perfect Type & Size

When you buy a used boat, odds are it will come with an anchor, and with a new boat you'll usually get to choose an anchor for it. What if that old anchor you have on your new-to-you boat doesn't hold so well, or needs replacing? In any of those scenarios, you'll need to pick out a new anchor for your boat. There are more types of anchors that you dreamed of, and they're all different in how they perform in different anchoring conditions. And your anchor will need to be sized for your boat.

The type of anchor you choose depends on the predominant bottom types where you plan to sail, and what fits on your boat. Once you know the type, you get the perfect type and size of anchor from the length and weight of your boat using the manufacturers' recommendations.

On this page:

How does an anchor work, loads and forces on an anchor, anchor construction materials, most common anchor styles, how do i choose an anchor, what's in your anchor locker, picking the right anchor ground tackle.

Instead of getting overwhelmed, if you do a little research upfront on what you might need you can narrow down your choices and get the best anchor for your boat and where you use it.

While it may seem obvious at first glance, there are many mistaken assumptions about just how your anchor holds your boat to the bottom. It's important to understand just what your anchor does when it's holding your boat, so you know why you may choose one anchor or another.

All anchors dig into the bottom. Some have aggressive, plow-like forms or scoops which burrow in quickly, others have various hooks, spikes or protrusions designed to catch and hook as soon as the anchor is pulled.

Angle of attack provides holding power

The pulling force on an anchor is along the shank, and for an anchor to offer maximum holding power, it's crucial that the bulk of the load from the boat's pull is applied in this direction. If the pull is from the side, the anchor may break out. If the pull is from above the anchor, it definitely will.

Part of the role of the chain in your rode is to keep the rode flat on the bottom to make sure the loads from the boat are horizontal and along the direction of the shank.

Scope & chain provide angle and drag

Your anchor rode and how much scope you let out is as important to your choice of anchor to how well you hold. Chain has its own resistance to being dragged and adds extra holding, and as noted above, it also keeps the forces on the anchor from pulling it out.

The longer the scope, the better the angle of pull on the anchor. With a length of chain, the extra weight adds more holding the bottom, and a rope/chain rode gives extra shock absorption in the catenary of the rode.

You can learn more about how to select and install the right anchor rode by reading our detailed article here.

Orientation of anchors

Most modern anchors have a definite top and bottom, and will not set lying on their backs. These anchors flip and orient their blades down if they land the wrong way or break out. Many anchor designs dig in quickly with the anchor lying on its side, and may have roll bars or weights to keep them in a suitable setting orientation.

Some anchors, like grapnel anchors or the Bulwagga, had a radial symmetry and no true up or down. These don't need to reorient or right themselves. They will catch the bottom no matter how they lie, though not all the blades and hooks will help hold the anchor.

Good anchors will reset unnoticably

All anchors can break out and may get rolled as a boat swings at anchor and wind strength increases. An anchor's ability to reset is important. You don't want to drag long before your anchor sets again. With a good anchor, you won't even be aware it has broken out and reset, as it will happen quickly without your boat seeming to drag at all.

An anchor doesn't care at all about what kind of boat is on the other end of the rode, what it cares about is how much drag force is on the rode. A heavy boat in a light breeze may pull as hard on an anchor as a lighter boat in more wind. It's the force that counts, and you size your anchor by how much force you can expect to land on that anchor and rode.

Boat weight partially determines drag force

Your boat's weight is one of the two sources of drag force on your anchor. Heavier boats will pull more than light boats in the same condition. Many anchor vendors give tables of boat weight ranges which match to the best anchor size.

In wind, boat length is more important

Picture two boats with the same weight - a low-slung classic yacht with little freeboard , but a heavy full keel, and a more modern design with higher freeboard, less ballast, and about ten more feet of length. In windless conditions, they'll pull about the same against the anchor.

But in twenty knots of breeze, the longer boat with more freeboard will have a lot more pull. Here, the boat's length overrides the weight. A doubling of wind speed quadruples the load on the anchor, so this effect becomes more pronounced the higher the wind.

Anchors are made from three primary materials - galvanized steel , stainless steel , and aluminum .

Galvanized steel anchors are cheap

Galvanized anchors are the most common, as they are the least expensive, offer excellent weight, and are very durable and rugged. They can rust over time as the galvanization wears off, but provide the best cost to holding of all anchor construction material. You can re-galvanize an anchor at considerably less cost than replacing the anchor, if the original protection wears off.

Stainless steel anchors are expensive

Stainless steel anchors have similar strength to galvanized steel anchors combined with corrosion resistance. They look beautiful on the bow, but they are quite expensive at 3-5 times the cost of a similar galvanized anchor, and you'll want to pair them with a more expensive stainless chain. While they won't rust, they can get scratched and lose their shiny finish if you use them often. And there is a risk of crevice corrosion if stainless steel sits underwater too long.

Aluminum anchors don't rely on weight

Aluminum anchors are lightweight and strong, but may not have the holding power of heavier anchors of a similar size, and aluminum is not as strong as steel. They are popular with racers, and also for secondary anchors, because they are lighter and easier to handle. Aluminum anchors rely on bottom penetration to set, not weight.

The dozens of anchors available break down into a few general classes. Trying to organize all the choices by function helps you narrow the field to what may work best for you.

Claw anchor

Claw anchors, like the Bruce, have claw style blades to dig in and hold well for most conditions. They may struggle to dig in with a hard mud or clay bottom, but will reset well on other bottoms.

Plow anchor

Plow anchors are generally fixed, like the Delta, or have a hinge like the CQR. The fixed plows do well in everything but rocks, while the hinged CQR doesn't hold quite as well but responds better to the movement of the rode since there is a swivel.

Plow with Roll Bars

Modern designs like the Rocna and Spade incorporate a plow form on the blades, coupled with a roll bar. These have fantastic holding power and set easily. They don't fit as well on some older boats, and are more expensive.

Fluke anchor

The fluke anchors are great in mud and sand, but don't do as well with bottoms they can't penetrate or grass. The Danforth (and its clones) are popular with smaller boats, and the lightweight aluminum Fortress is a favorite with weight conscious ravers.

Fisherman's anchor

The traditional crossbar and hooks anchor is good for rocks. Some break down for storage, which makes them a popular choice for a storm anchor.

Grapnel anchor

Grapnels are fine anchors for dinghies, kayaks, PWCs and other small, light craft but don't do well with higher loads and larger boats.

Mushroom anchor

Small mushroom anchors can hold a small craft like a dinghy or kayak. Many permanent moorings are large mushroom anchors, where they can dig deep into the bottom. But they are not suitable for big boat use.

Other alternatives

This list isn't exhaustive. There is constant innovation in anchor technology, from the Bulwagga to various box anchors, which don't even look much like anchors as we think of them. All have their strengths and weaknesses, so research carefully and try to find someone with real-world experiences with them.

Remember, there is no "right" or perfect anchor, so look at a lot of options to see what fits your boating style.

The basic decisions you have to make about your anchor are the style, size, and material of your anchor. While we can't get into every type of anchor on the market and how it works for every boat, we can give you an overview of the decisions you must make.

What fits on your boat?

If you're adding a new anchor to an existing boat, you may have some natural limitations on what anchors you may choose.

With a bow roller sized for a plow or a nice Danforth bracket installed already, maybe those features limit your choices. You may switch between a CQR and a Delta with that anchor roller, but there's a good chance you can't fit a Rocna's roll bar up there without bending something. You could probably switch a Fortress out for a Danforth in that bracket, but you can not hang a plow from it.

Most anchor manufacturers give dimensional drawings of their products on their websites, so measure and even mock up something to see if it will go. On my boat, I shoved a Manson Supreme where a CQR went, but not without permanently bending a retaining pin. And I mocked the whole thing up in cardboard ahead of time to be sure.

Where will you anchor?

The range of where boat affects what to have in your bow locker. If you're a Chesapeake Bay sailor and you don't leave the bay, something that holds well in mud is a must and may be all you need. But a world cruiser needs something more effective across a range of bottom types.

Give careful thought to the places you’ll want to spend the night on your boat, especially the bottom types you'll find. In the end, you'll likely have more than one anchor, and you want to cover most of the holding types you'll encounter.

Choose your materials based on budget and style

This is a matter of budget and style, mostly. As a cruiser who spends almost every night at anchor, I can't see the sense of spending a fortune on a pretty anchor that spends most of its life hidden. But for some, adding that high gloss show to the bow of a Bristol condition yacht everyone can see most of the time, the aesthetic choice may make more sense.

When I raced, I had a Fortress because it met the requirements to have an anchor, but I ended up spending a couple of nights on it. It was easy to move around, but for vacations I still dragged the 35 lb. CQR out of the shed and put it in the bow locker.

Size your anchor based on boat length and weight

Sizing your anchor is most people's biggest worry. Remember, it's better to have too much anchor instead of not enough. You want to sleep soundly and leave your boat without worrying. If you're hauling your anchor up without a windlass, the extra pounds matter a lot more, but it's better to have extra.

It's not as hard as you think to size your anchor, because every single manufacturer publishes a guide to how to select the right product for your boat. Most of them have tables for boat length and boat weight, and we talked up above about how a boat's weight and windage affect anchor loads.

To size your anchor, follow these steps.

• Search the "by length" table for the length of your boat, and note the recommended size.
• Search for the weight of your boat, and note the recommended size.
• The correct anchor size for your boat is the larger of those two recommendations.

If they give a single number in the table, choose the next number above yours. If they use ranges and your boat is on the edge of a weight or length range, there's no harm in moving to the next size band. Don't move down bands; you don't want to undersize.

For an example, look at this sizing table for Spade Anchors. We've going to pick an anchor for a boat which is 53' long and weighs about 54,000 lbs.

Source: Anchor sizing chart on Spade Anchor USA

You'll see a boat length of 53' puts us at 59ft. and a 55 pound galvanized anchor. But by vessel weight, for 54,000 lbs., the recommended weight is 99 pounds.

So the larger of the two is 99 lbs., so that is the proper weight for this boat.

Most boats should have more than one anchor, so you will go through this process several times. You may need multiple anchors for the different bottom conditions you may come across. If you foul an anchor or lose one, a spare anchor and rode can literally be a lifesaver.

Other reasons for multiple anchors include a lighter anchor for a "lunch hook," though with an electric windlass this isn't much of a concern on bigger boats. You may want a smaller stern anchor in case you need to anchor where you don't want to swing, or it's important to keep your bow facing a direction other than into the wind. And finally, if you plan to cruise far from your home port, you may want a storm anchor.

Any of the anchor types we've discussed will fill many of the above roles, and you can use these tools to evaluate your boat and your plans to make the best choice for each job.

The next step is to select the right ground tackle. Ground tackle consists of everything that connects the anchor to your boat and is used to control the angle of attack, scope, and drag by adding or removing weight to the anchor.

I've written a detailed guide to help you to understand ground tackle in depth , which will help you select the perfect parts yourself.

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You may also like, how to measure your anchor chain size (two ways).

Buying new anchor your chain for your boat can be more complex than it sounds. You can't just walk into a marine store and order "A hundred meters of your best." …

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Selecting the Right Anchor Size

Holding power increases with weight, but how much is hard to calculate..

Over the years Practical Sailor has conducted dozens of anchor tests, and like many publications, we’ve repeated the common guidance that cruising sailors should buy an anchor that is at least one size larger than what the maker recommends for your size vessel.

During the last two decades, however, the tremendous holding power of some newer generation anchors have caused us to re-think this guidance. Are we paying more for an anchor, rode, and the requisite anchor handling equipment than we need? How accurate are the makers size recommendations? How much insurance are we really getting for the price of a bigger anchor?

For this report we took a range of modern, sometimes called new generation anchors, and their predecessors and averaged their weight vs. vessel size recommendations (see accompanying table). Much to our surprise, the weight recommendations for the new designs, Rocna, Excel, Supreme, etc. are very similar to the weight recommendation for the older, traditional models, CQR, Delta, Bruce etc. In both cases, the recommendation for a 35-foot yacht is approximately a 30-pound anchor. The exceptions are aluminum anchors from Fortress and Spade.

Most of the new generation anchors have been tested to international standards established by the RINA (Registro Italian Naval) or some other internationally recognized society. Rocna, Fortress, Supreme, Excel, Spade have been found to meet standards of Super High Holding Power, SHHP. The older anchors, CQR, Bruce, Delta are rated as High Holding Power. The difference between the two categories is that the SHHP have been tested and found to have a hold, comparing anchors of the same weight, that is two times that of the HHP anchors.

So if we’re getting double the holding power, does that mean we can use an anchor that is half the weight? Not necessarily. Nor can you expect another doubling of holding power by doubling the weight of an SHHP anchor.

Despite the sales pitch that the new anchors have greater holding capacity pound-for-pound, the anchor makers are suggesting that you replace your old CQR with the same weight new anchor. It appears that manufacturers are, in effect, doubling the historic safety factor. And for a cautious sailor, there is nothing wrong with this.

However, consider the advice that is often repeated on internet forums, or the local scuttlebutt, that cruising sailors should increase one size over the makers recommendation. So instead of a 33-pound Rocna for your Tartan 37, you buy a 44-pound Rocna-now with potentially three times the safety factor of an old school anchor. Apart from the added significant expense, this obsession with upsizing – more anchor, more chain, bigger windlass-can also add potentially unnecessary weight and concentrate it in the bow.

So what do we really get with that bigger anchor? There is an idea that if you double weight of an anchor you will double holding power. Except with extra-large commercial anchors and some specific tests, we’ve found no data to support this.

No independent test, as far as we know, has taken a series of different sized anchors of the same design and tested them in the same seabed for ultimate holding capacity. Tests have been conducted on commercial oil rig anchors like the Bruce, and the best scaling is about 90 percent-double weight and you increase hold by 1.8 times.

The only recreational anchor that we are aware of that has undergone some testing to determine the relationship between weight and holding is Fortress (in mud only, see Anchoring in Squishy Bottoms, PS February 2015 ). An analysis of all their tests on a complete range of their anchor sizes suggest that if you triple weight you increase hold by slightly more than two times, approximately an 80 percent efficiency as size is scaled up.

Ultimately, this means that when someone tells you they can calculate the increase in holding power as you move up in size, be careful not to read too much into this conclusion. For one, the ratio used deserves close scrutiny. Surely, the bigger anchor will provide better holding-but how much? This hard to quantify, even with computer modeling. And no matter how accurate your calculation-a ratio based on performance in one type of bottom might not apply in another.

One reason you can’t claim that doubling the weight doubles the holding is that as anchors increase in size, the stress on the construction increases. To compensate for the increase in stress, the steel thicknesses must be increased – and more steel weighs more. So in an anchor whose holding power relies greatly on surface area and how it is distributed, adding more weight doesn’t necessarily result in a commensurate increase in surface area that provides holding power.

And as we’ve shown in our past tests-anchor dimensions (especially the fluke area) and shape can play a significant role in performance. It might be possible to double weight and double the holding power without beefing up the steel, but the resulting anchor would be less strong relative to its designed holding power.

Weaker construction might not matter on an over-engineered anchor. However, we have seen how the use of inferior materials has resulted in anchors that bend more easily at designed loads (see Anchor Tests: Bending More Shanks, PS May 2013 ).

Anchor Angles

In past reports, we’ve discussed in detail how anchor design can impact holding, especially with the new generation anchors ( see An Inquiry into Anchor Angles, PS February 2017 ). As you consider which design best suits your needs, here are some things to consider.

Fluke/shank angle. The fluke/shank angle is the angle between fluke and shank. It is one of the determining factors in how quickly and deeply an anchor sets. For a simple design with flat plate fluke and a straight shank (like a Guardian) the angle is a line down the center of the shank to the hinge and then along the fluke. In shanks with curves or angles, the first line is usually drawn from the shackle pin to the point there the shank meets the fluke.

For three-dimensional flukes (as found in most new generation anchors), you have to estimate where the top of the fluke plate lies. The ballast chamber or shank support that might protrude from the sole, such as with Spade, or Vulcan anchor should not be used to determine shank/fluke angle.

It is the fluke top surface that is important. In previous tests we reported that in thin mud an anchor with a fluke angle of around 45 degrees will outperform an identical anchor with its fluke angle set at 30 degrees. But a firmer sand seabed is entirely different, and research demonstrates the ideal fluke angle for a typical sand bottom is around 30 degrees (see Small Anchor Reset Tests, PS February 2013 ).

Fluke-seabed angle. This is the angle of the fluke to the seabed during the phases of anchoring-most importantly, during the initial penetration into the bottom, and when the anchor is set.

Penetration angle. When an anchor is aligned ready to set, or engage with the seabed (it might need tension on the rode to achieve this) then the fluke will usually be at an angle of 60-70 degrees to the seabed. Commonly the anchor is on its side.

Setting angle. Once the anchor starts to penetrate it will self align and the fluke plate tend quickly toward its setting angle, usually of about 30 degrees. It is coincidence that the fluke/shank angle and setting angle are similar though most anchors tend to show the similarity of the two angles. Center of gravity can have a great effect on penetration angle. This is why many new generation anchors, like the Ultra, have weighted flukes. Having a 30-degree fluke/shank angle is irrelevant if the center of gravity is in the wrong place.

Shank length

If you imagine a Fortress with a shank/fluke angle of 30 degrees but a shank three times longer than its original design, then you can visualize how the anchor will probably simply slide along the seabed when tensioned. The throat opening will be too small. Similarly if you chop the shank in half, the toe of the anchor will simply scrape along the seabed. In both case the anchor will find difficulty in engaging because the penetration angle will be wrong.

Are the makers of new generation anchors over-stating the need for bigger anchors, thus requiring boat owners to pay much more than they might need in order to be secure at anchor? Possibly. Would going with a larger-than-required anchor actually hurt your anchors performance? Unlikely. As is often the case with our anchor reports, it is hard to come with some firm answers regarding both of these questions. Anchor studies are fraught with variables.

In our view, it is no crime to go up one size over the manufacturers recommended size, if your boat and crew can handle it. The anchor may require more reverse throttle to set, but ultimately, it should provide the holding you require. Likewise, it is reasonable to assume that the anchor makers guidance for sizing is reasonable. However, if an online advocate starts telling you that youll get x times more holding power by going up one size, ask him for the data.

Extra weight in an anchor is your insurance policy. Yes, you can almost always get more security with the heavier anchor, but whether or not you will every need that extra holding power is not conclusive. In our view, conservative sizing is added insurance-but until the data is in, we remain skeptical of any absolute claims that attempt to quantify the advantages of more weight when choosing an anchor.

Based on average recommendations from leading anchor makers, the weight savings of upgrading to a second generation anchor doesn’t really pay off until you get into the larger size vessels.

In an anchor whose holding power relies greatly on surface area and how it is distributed, adding more weight doesn’t necessarily result in a commensurate increase in surface area that provides holding power. To compensate for the higher loads, the steel must be thicker, resulting in different surface area/weight ratios.

• As fluke size increases, so do the loads. But if the construction isn’t beefed up to handle the loads, the result is failure. Flat plate steel in this Danforth fluke sheered.
• The shaft of an Excel anchor bent during veer testing.
• The flat flukes of the Bugel anchor makes it easy to calculate the shank-fluke angle.
• Here a Rocna anchor is in the initial setting angle, still capsized on one side, with not enough of its toe is dug into the soil to dig in. Bottom shape and center of gravity (some designs are weighted to control CG), helps to determine this angle.
• This Manson Ray anchor has rolled upright and assumed the angle of penetration that will help the anchor to bury into the bottom.

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How to Pick a Boat Anchor: The Guide to Types, Sizes & Weights

October 20, 2023

Lakes can get choppy, and river currents can drag you along when you'd rather stay put. Having the right anchor on your boat is crucial, especially if you're busy staging for a wakeboard or ski ride .

But what type and size of anchor is best for your setup?

Types of Boat Anchors

Let's look at the most popular types of boat anchors, and look at some charts to figure out what size and weight anchor is right for you.

Fluke Anchors

Also known as a Danforth anchor, the fluke anchor is favored by lake and river boat owners for its lightweight design and excellent holding power in soft bottoms.

Fluke anchors have a rotating bar that connects the anchor to the line. Their forward-heavy profile allows the flukes to drive straight down into sand or mud. As line is laid out, the bar swivels into a horizontal position, providing good scope.

• Boat Size: 30 feet or less
• Best For: Lakes, rivers, mud and sand
• Bad For: Rocks, debris, coral, strong currents

Plow Anchors

Also called a delta anchor, the plow anchor is one of the most popular anchors on the boat market. It's simple and effective, capable of providing reliable mooring in all water conditions and most beds.

Plow anchors dig into the surface below and they provide high holding power. They set quickly, which makes them an excellent choice when strong currents and winds could otherwise quickly move your boat.

But plow anchors' large, flat fins can get stuck in debris and large rocks, so it's best to stick to softer bottoms.

• Boat Size: 70 feet or less
• Best For: Sand, mud, grass bottoms, strong winds
• Bad For: Rocky bottoms

Claw Anchors

Also known as a Bruce anchor, the claw anchor is similar to a plow anchor: It sets quickly and digs into soft bottoms, providing good holding power against currents and wind -- though not as well as a plow.

Because claw anchors use smaller pins, they're better suited in gravel and rock, affording a lower risk of catching and getting stuck where a plow anchor might get hung up.

Digger Anchors

The digger anchor excels at providing high holding power in gravel and rocky bottoms, even with strong currents and high wind. It uses a rod that partially rotates, while limiting the angle of the anchor line's scope.

As current and wind pull on the boat, the rod's limited angle pulls on the anchor's claws, pushing them further into the bottom. The digger's thin, long claws work great in virtually all bottom, including gravel and small rocks -- just avoid large debris, as the limited angle of the anchor rod prevents it from being pulled back out of a snag effectively.

• Boat Size: 40 feet or less
• Best For: Sand, mud, grass, gravel, strong winds
• Bad For: Bottoms with large debris

Navy Anchors

The classic, heavy, big navy anchor excels at providing high holding power in all waters and conditions. Its size and shape make it suitable for rocky bottoms and debris fields, as it has little risk of getting snagged.

The only problem with a navy anchor is that its benefits can become problematic for smaller vessels: Because navy anchors are large and heavy, they can be difficult to stow, and they add plenty of weight to the hull.

• Boat Size: 20+ feet
• Best For: All bottoms, currents, and weather
• Bad For: Small, light boats

Mushroom Anchors

The mushroom anchor is made for small vessels in relatively calm waters with soft bottoms. It relies on suction and sinking into sand, dirt, and mud to provide holding power. These anchors are typically found on light, electric motor-powered boats, kayaks, and dingy boats.

• Boat Size: 12 feet or less
• Best For: Soft bottoms free of rock
• Bad For: Large boats, heavy currents, rocky bottoms

River Anchors

Like the mushroom anchor, the river anchor is also intended for small vessels in lakes and rivers -- but with one exception: The river anchor works well in rocky bottoms and beds filled with debris. The wide, flat flukes work best when they can grab hold of objects on the floor. River anchors work well enough in soft bottoms, albeit with less holding power than a mushroom.

• Best For: rocky bottoms and debris fields
• Bad For: Large boats, heavy currents

Choosing The right Size Anchor

When selecting a boat anchor, it's important to consider the following factors:

The size and weight of your boat will determine the size and weight of the anchor you need. As a general rule, the heavier the boat, the larger and heavier the anchor should be.

Water and Weather

The type of weather and currents you encounter will influence your anchor choice. Different anchors perform better in different conditions, so it's important to choose one that suits your boating environment.

Conditions of Water Bed

The floor your anchor rests upon can vary wildly. Some lakes and rivers have rocky bottoms filled with debris, while others have soft silt or sand. Picking the wrong setup could mean you wind up drifting, or worse, cutting line because your anchor got stuck at the bottom.

Anchor Weight vs. Boat Size Chart

The chart above is a general guideline for selecting the appropriate anchor weight for your boat. Conditions on the water, and the weight of your boat -- regardless of its size -- could mean you need a heavier anchor.

Anchor Chain vs. Rope

When it comes to anchoring, you'd think chain is far superior to rope. But chain really only provides two advantages: It adds holding power, helping to keep your boat moored in one spot in rough water and strong currents, and it resists chafing -- it won't suffer damage from being dragged along debris and rocks.

Chain is heavy, though, so it adds weight to your craft when not being used. This isn't a concern on large, sea-going vessels. But you probably don't want that added weight when you're cruising around on the river or lake, especially when towing a wakeboard, tube, or skis.

Chain also rusts, even with regular maintenance, and it's expensive. Nowadays, synthetic anchor rope is tough and abrasion-resistant, and it withstands water and sunlight incredibly well. It's also lightweight relative to its strength, and it takes up much less space than chain.

The most effective setup combines a bit of chain near the anchor, with rope making up the rest of the line. Just a few feet of chain is needed to ensure your anchor is properly seated. This bit of chain also improves the scope of your line. "Scope?" You, say? Read on.

It's All About Scope

Rope alone will provide as much holding power as chain, so long as your scope is correct. Scope measures the ratio of the length of deployed rope (or chain) to the height from the ocean, lake, or riverbed to the anchor point on the boat.

The minimum effective scope you need to properly moor your vessel with any anchor and line is 5:1. That means if the depth from your boat's topside to the underwater floor is 5 feet, you need 25 feet of rope laid out below. This affords about 75% of the maximum holding power of your anchor and line.

A scope of 10:1, laid perfectly flat on the bed below, provides 100% holding power. Using the same 5 foot depth, you'd need 50 feet of anchor rope or chain laid out for max holding power.

Need a new anchor setup? Check out our boat anchors and anchor lines !

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Fluke Danforth Boat Anchor Sizing Chart

The chart below lists the recommended Fluke/Danforth Anchor Size for various lengths of boats. The anchor sizing chart below assumes average boat characteristics in average anchoring conditions. If you have an exceptionally heavy boat or are anchoring in exceptional conditions (typically greater than Gale force winds) you may consider going up one size of anchor or larger.

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Clearance August Race Boat Cleaning Kit £26.00

Clearance LIROS Racer Dyneema £55.08

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The Jimmy Green Anchor Size Comparison Chart is compiled from individual manufacturer recommendations and highlights how similar the suggestions are across various designs.

How to choose your Anchor Weight by Manufacturer Recommendation

• Find the column below that best represents your Boat Length Overall.
• Compare your displacement with the tonnage listed.
• If the displacement is greater than displayed in your column in the table, or the yacht is a multihull, consider moving across to the next column to increase the diameter.
• Consider the worst-case scenario for your anticipated Anchoring - this will dictate whether you go for the minimum required or the ocean cruising approach
• Consider the manufacturer sizing parameters listed below the tables 
• Compile a short list of potential anchors to consider

Rex Francis has set the Anchor Right parameters for the Sarca Excel in a slightly different format. However, it can still be compared with other anchor designs with a little interpretation.

SARCA Excel Parameters - Length and Displacement Anchor Right Advisory - If your boat is over the limit in either column, it is advisable to upgrade to the next size. Upgrading one size for a multihull or long-term anchor dependent cruising would also be considered good practice.

Most anchor manufacturers publish a recommended weight of anchor by either the length overall or a combination of length, displacement and windage.

Some top manufacturers also include weather conditions and distinguish between monohulls and multihulls.

The top manufacturers are generally conservative and specify more criteria to help you choose.

The authority of each manufacturer recommendation may be judged by several factors: reputation, personal experience, research, the number of relevant factors taken into account, and the amount of detailed information they publish on the subject.

The Jimmy Green Anchor Size Chart collates the recommended sizing for all the anchors we offer on our website and highlights how similar the recommendations are. Interpretation is still required, e.g. multihulls, high windage profile and extreme weather.

Anchor Sizing Parameters by Manufacturer

A more detailed explanation of how the data for individual anchors is presented and how it is collated into the Comparison Table follows:

Galvanised and Stainless Steel Anchors

Rocna and Vulcan, Galvanised and Stainless Steel - Length and Displacement

Rocna/Vulcan recommend an anchor one size larger than indicated in their guide for multihulls

Quote from their Fitment Guide - ”our anchor sizing recommendations are intended to provide an anchor adequate for use in most all conditions. We base our calculations on 50 knots of wind, associated surge, and poor holding bottoms.”

Mantus Mark 1 and 2 – Length, Displacement and Wind Speed

Mantus Quote - “we are generally referring to the needs of a cruising boat spending most of its time on anchor. In doing so, we try to envelope high sustained winds (50 knots) and assume poor holding conditions (low viscosity bottoms).”

Mantus publish a chart in three categories – “Lunch Anchor category is recommended for lighter use, expected winds under 30 knots, working anchor for winds under 50 knots and finally, storm anchor recommendations are intended for winds above 50 knots.”

N.B. The Jimmy Green Comparison Table is derived from the Mantus middle category.

Spade Galvanised and Stainless Steel – Length and Displacement

Spade recommend an anchor one size larger than indicated in their guide for multihulls

UltraMarine Stainless Steel – The UltraMarine Anchor Size Guide considers multiple factors. Their comprehensive approach includes Length, Displacement, Mono/Multihull and Windage Profile criteria.

Lewmar Epsilon, Delta and Claw – Length only

Lewmar guidelines are illustrated in a shaded colour range by length only, so you need to judge displacement, i.e. light, average, or heavy, compared with similar length yachts. If the answer is heavy, upgrading to the next size is advisable.

Plastimo Britany – Length only

Plastimo Quote – “Anchor weight per boat length is only given as an indication. However, your anchor selection should also recognise the specific construction of your vessel.”

Using a lightweight anchor goes against the traditional belief that weight is one of the most critical factors in holding power.

Fortress Quote – “Fortress design does not depend upon weight to provide world class performance.”

However, the most popular application for aluminium anchors is as a convenient, high holding power secondary or kedge anchor.

Fortress/Guardian – Length only

Fortress Quote – “Boat anchor size recommendations are for boats of average windage and proportions in 30 knots of wind, average bottom conditions, and moderate protection from open seas. Remember that the loads in 42 knots of wind are twice as much as in 30 knots.”

Spade Aluminium – Length and Displacement

Spade recommend an anchor one size larger than indicated in their guide for multihulls.

Spade Quote – “Aluminium version not recommended for use as a primary anchor.”

Lewmar LFX – Length only

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Sizing A Boat Anchor

• By Lenny Rudow
• July 20, 2022

While many mariners don’t look at an anchor as a piece of safety gear, that’s exactly what it is. If you lose power and are drifting towards a jetty, need to grab some shut-eye, or have to keep the bow into the waves without burning through your fuel supply, that anchor becomes critical. And just like having properly sized life jackets aboard is imperative, having the properly sized anchor for your boat is a must too.

Sizing the right anchor for your boat depends on a number of variables:

• The size of your boat.
• The types of areas you generally go boating in.
• The type of anchor you carry.
• The range of conditions you generally go boating in.
• The amount of anchor rode you carry.

Boat Size and Anchor Size

Obviously, larger boats need larger anchors. However, since there are a number of additional variables to be considered beyond boat size, there’s no hard and fast rule as to what size anchor matches up with what sized boat. Most anchor manufacturers publish their own recommended size table or chart, indicating how their specific anchor design relates to anchor size and boat length. These are a helpful guideline, but they shouldn’t be considered the final word because as a general rule of thumb bigger is better. So, if your boat size comes in at the periphery of the recommendations for any given anchor manufacturer’s guidelines, it may be best to err on the side of going larger.

Types of Areas You Boat, and the Type of Anchor You Carry

These two variables are tied together, because the areas you cruise in will have a bearing on the type of anchor you choose. And since different anchor types have different levels of holding power, there’s a spillover effect when it comes to choosing size. Let’s use a fluke anchor versus a claw anchor as an example. Fluke anchors dig into sand and mud, but the claw works far better on rocky bottoms. So you’ll have to choose between them depending on where you go boating and which bottom type you’re likely to encounter. But when we look at the sizing chart for a manufacturer that provides both types, some discrepancies become apparent. For a 50-foot boat, a 21-pound, 10-inch by 5-inch by 28-inch fluke anchor is recommended. In the case of a claw anchor, however, the very same manufacturer recommends a 66-pound, 21-inch by 16-inch by 33-inch model for the very same boat. So, the type of anchor being used has made a measurable difference in the anchor size being recommended.

The Range of Conditions You Go Boating In

If you only leave the dock on fair-weather days, don’t go far from home, and only use your boat in protected waterways where rough conditions aren’t an issue, you probably don’t need to carry as large an anchor as boaters who venture into open waters in strong winds. This is another case where there’s no hard and fast rule, and you’ll have to make a judgement call. If you push the envelope on weather and waterways, upsizing is a good idea. But if the opposite is true a smaller size anchor may do the trick.

The Amount of Anchor Rode You Carry

Just how much scope you’ll be able to pay out at any given time will impact on how well your boat’s anchor holds in most conditions and bottom types. Of course, this factor varies depending on how deep the water is too, so yet again there’s no one formula or rule you can refer to. That said, if you carry enough rode to set out a 10:1 scope everywhere you go, you can choose a smaller size anchor than you would if you could only set out a 3:1 scope.

Note that I say “rode,” not “line.” The anchor line is just that — the line. The rode is the combination of line and chain. If you have a significant length of chain at the end of your rode, or if it’s an all-chain rode, it will weight down the end of the rode somewhat and pull against the anchor in a more horizontal manner. In many situations with many anchor types (though not all), this increases the holding power of the anchor, and thus, allows a smaller size to accomplish the same task.

Choosing the Ideal Anchor Size

You’ve probably realized by now that there’s no one-size-fits-all answer to the question of what size anchor you need. The above factors need to be taken into account, and then a judgement call has to be made as to the appropriate choice. In some cases, you may also have limited choices due to stowage restraints. And in some other cases a particular model boat may have been designed to accommodate a specific type and size of anchor, a common situation with through-hull anchor arrangements, some anchor pulpits and some anchor lockers with integrated anchor racks. In all cases, however, remember that having the right size anchor aboard is far more than a matter of convenience — it’s a critically important piece of safety gear.

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Chain Sizing

Rode length/ scope.

The ratio of the length of rode to the water depth is known as the scope. Anchoring with sufficient scope brings the direction of strain close to parallel with the seabed. In general the longer your rode the better. 10:1 Scope is preferable in windy conditions. It’s recommended that an average cruising boat carries at least 300 feet of rode, which will allow for 10:1 scope in 25 feet of water (5 feet allotted for free-board height). This will ensure that most of the time you can anchor with 10:1 Scope.

It is generally accepted that in a storm situation we strive to put out 10:1 scope, but why? See how anchors maximum holding power varies with changing scope.

Many cruisers find that 10:1 scope is a nice compromise between rode length and maximizing anchors holding power.

Rode Strength:

ABYC data was developed in 1950s to indicate the strength required of an anchor, capstan, rode or a cleat. Tom Hale a past ABYC technical director said it is not unreasonable to apply the figures in the chart above to the entire anchor system.

After comparing this data in this table to work that has been done since we come to the conclusion that the values presented here represent loads expected on the anchor rode if anchored on chain only without the use of the snubbing system. Further using a line rode or and adequately designed snubber you can reduce the loads by a factor of 3, by eliminating the shock loads. This is an argument for why its so important to use a snubber but when sizing anchor rode or your anchor, it is important to consider loads as stated in the table. The reason is that we can not rely on the integrity of a snubber in a storm.  Should the snubber fail, the integrity of the rode should be sufficient to handle the loads without the snubber.

The ABYC Horizontal Working Load (lbs) Table

When sizing your gear you should make sure that the Working Limit Load (WLL) of your rode is higher than the loads expected in a storm. Sizing the working rode for a hurricane might not be practical but sustained winds greater than 40 kts are commonly encountered by cruising vessels on anchor. Sizing for such conditions is a reasonable way to approach the problem and is the basis for our recommendations.

WLL: Working Limit Load /Safe Working Load (SWL)/Normal Working Load (NWL) is the load that the rode can safely support without fear of breaking. Usually marked on the equipment by the manufacturer and it is often 1/3 to 1/4 of the Minimum Breaking Strength (MBS) for chain and 1/10 to 1/12 the Minimum Breaking Strength (MBS) for rope.

Manufacturers:

This is the list of the common chain manufacturers that sell in usa.

ACCO/PEERLESS

WESTMARINE (private labeled)

CERTIFYING BODIES: (the Standards from different certifying bodies some time overlap)

• NACM – National Association of Chain Manufacturers  (US Chain manufacturers make chain to NACM specs)
• ISO – International Standards Organization

Chain Link Geometry:

• Proof Coil Grade 30: Proof coil chain is a general purpose chain, frequently used for light duty tow chains, tie down chains and logging chains. Links are longer, thus the chain is lighter than BBB and G4 dimensioned chain for equivalent length.
• BBB: Short, compact links. The short link makes the chain more flexible and ideally suited for a windlass, usually made in Grade 30 only.
• G4 Dimensioned chain : Most common specification for Hi Test Chain sold in the USA.
• DIN 766 (Common Standard for Metric Chain)
• ISO4565 G70 Chain
• Grade L Chain (AS2321-2006) Grade 30 Chain specified for the Australian Market
• Stainless Steel Chain : Imported and US Made stainless steel chain is available made to various NACM, ISO, DIN specifications . Stainless Chain is available in several grades:  304, 316, Duplex. Duplex stainless steel chain is the strongest option available in Grade 60 and is more corrosion resistant than 304, 316 stainless steel and is ussually made to G4 and DIN776 dimensional standards.

Chain Grade:

National Association of Chain Manufacturers The chain grade is based on the nominal stress in the link at the design breaking force strength. (It is calculated by taking the minimum breaking force load and dividing by two times the nominal cross sectional area of the link.) Another words the higher the grade the stronger the chain. Chains Grade 80 and above are considered to be ok for overhead lifting. These higher grades are usually not easily accessible. Most common grades for anchor chain are Grade 30 (BBB & Proof Coil) & Grade 40 (HT)

Chain Strength Table:

Note: the WLL (Wroking load) for chain is usually defined ¼ of the UBS (Ultimate Breaking Strength) expressed in pounds for all chain types except G4, Grade 40 HTChain has the WLL defined as 1/3 of the UBS. It is unclear why the WLL definition is different for Grade 40 chain. To make the comparison easier we defined Working Load below for all chain as 1/4 of the UBS.

Main focus should be placed on sizing the chain for the expected loads. Using higher grades of chain can offer some weight saving however. For example, 300 feet of 3/8 BBB weighs 468 lbs vs. 300 feet of 5/16 G4 HT which weighs 310 lbs and has higher strength. Thus if taking 160 lbs off the bow is considered important, using higher grade chain definitely has its advantages. Another issue is matching the gypsy on the windlass to the chain size and type. A windlass gypsy designed for 5/16″ High Test chain will not work on 5/16″ BBB, which has shorter, more compact links. Many windlasses have a selection of gypsies, which can be Special Ordered to fit the rode on your boat. Often availability and the cost of the right gypsy enter the calculus of which chain size and type is right for you. It is important to remember not to compromise on the strength of the system when making such decisions.

Chain Sizing Recommendations:

How much chain:.

It’s recommended that an average cruising boat carries at least 300 feet of chain, which will allow for 10:1 scope in 25 feet of water (5 feet allotted for freeboard height). This set up will ensure that most of the time you are anchored on chain and reduce the likelyhood of rode failure.

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What Size Anchor Do I Need? (Anchor Size Chart)

When it comes to boat safety items, an anchor is non-negotiable. Your anchor size roughly depends upon your boat size, type, wind speed, anchor type, and anchoring conditions you encounter.

To be precise, pinpointing the exact anchor size for your boat can be difficult. Nevertheless, it is always a good idea to follow the rough guidelines provided by your anchor manufacturer.

For your convenience, we’ve compiled all the information you need to figure out the right size of anchor for your boat in this post. Let’s begin!

Table of Contents

What Factors to Consider Before Buying a Boat Anchor?

Types of boat anchors, anchor size chart, what size anchor do i need, what are some common anchoring mistakes.

1. Holding power

The holding power of an anchor is the pull force it must withstand in order to hold the boat of a given weight in place.

Holding capacity depends upon the ability of the anchor to dig, the soil measurements, and the shape of the anchor. Holding power also varies with environmental factors such as wind speed.

2. Anchor weight:

Besides holding power, the anchor weight is also a primary factor you should consider. The anchor must be heavy enough to be able to drag through the bottom so that your vessel stays put in a single place.

In fact, many suggest always taking two anchors on board with you at all times, especially if you anchor your boat overnight ; one, a simple hook style anchor for calm water and weather conditions, and a heavy one that assures your boat safety even during stormy and turbulent conditions.

Nevertheless, many new generation anchors today rely on the design that offers the best holding power and not really on the weight of the anchor.

3. Type of seabed:

Some types of anchors are efficient for sandy or muddy seabed, while others might be the best in the case of rough and rocky bottoms.

Almost all types of anchors have impressive holding power in hard sand bottoms. However, in mud bottoms, anchors need to penetrate high in order to reach the bottom material.

Likewise, weed bottoms are truly challenging to penetrate for anchors. Therefore, the anchor weight plays a critical role in such a seabed type.

Overall, you must be aware of the seabed types that you’ll encounter along your voyage to be able to choose the right design and sized anchor for your vessel.

1. Folding Grapnel:

Folding grapnels features multiple tines to grab structures and are great to anchor to an area with rough or rocky bottom. These anchors are great for small vessels, inflatables, and jet skis and are recommended by many as secondary or emergency anchors.

2. Reef Anchors:

As the name suggests, reef anchors are great for coral reefs and rocky bottoms. Many boaters choose to hand-weld and DIY reef anchors.

3. Plough anchors:

Plough anchors have a single penetrating point attached to the central shank and are ideal for sandy, muddy, and weed bottoms. You might notice arched shank in modern plough anchor designs. As long as it gets a good grip, this anchor type is also great for rocky bottom uses.

On the other hand, plough anchors might not be the ideal anchor for loose bottoms, as it only gets dragged along the boat without any resistance.

4. Claw anchors:

Claw anchors have a broader scoop shape than plough anchors and are suitable for anchoring in a variety of sea beds . It is ideal for sandy and muddy sea bottom but also performs decent enough in rocky bottoms. Nevertheless, it isn’t a great anchor candidate when it comes to loose sand bottoms.

5. Fluke or Danforth anchors:

Fluke anchors feature two triangular-shaped flukes attached to the central shank to bury onto the sea bed. Due to its simple design and lightweight character, it is undoubtedly a great choice for small crafts.

The small gap in between the flukes in the Danforth anchor allows better grip onto the rough sea bed. Although the orientation of the flukes is changeable depending upon the seabed material, the ideal angle for maximum efficiency is 30 degrees.

6. Mushroom anchors:

Another great anchor for small vessels and dinghies is the mushroom anchor . Small mushroom anchors are ideal if you often anchor your boat to a river bottom. On the other hand, large mushroom anchors are used for mooring purposes.

7. Spade with roll bar anchors:

Distributed by brands such as Manson and ROCNA, a spade with roll bar anchors is designed to set fast onto any type of sea bed with impeccable holding power.

For your convenience, we’ve done all the research for you. Here are some common anchor types used in the US and the anchor weight recommended for them depending on the boat length.

Remember to take this list only for reference purposes and research for the accurate and updated recommended anchor size listed by your manufacturer. And, when in doubt or during stormy conditions, always go a size higher.

Note: Unless specified otherwise, the chart assumes an average boat weight , average bottom conditions, and typical environmental conditions, including wind speed. In the case of exceptionally long and heavy vessels, many brands such as Lewmar recommend the clients follow the relevant Classification Societies for instructions.

The standard calculation is 1 lb of anchor for each foot of the boat. Once you’re ready with this basal value, you can then adjust the anchor size by taking the instructions below to size up or down the anchor.

As per the rope, use three-strand nylon, and the minimum scope for your anchor must be 5:1. The scope value should be around 7:1 in case of heavy vessels.

The boat anchor scope is the ratio of the deployed anchor rode length to the depth of the water from the deck height to the bottom of the water body.

Likewise, the 6 ft chain for every 25 ft of water depth rule is also the golden standard. Moreover, anchors require at least one ft of chain every one ft of boat length for maximum efficiency.

Up your boat anchor size, regardless of the manufacturer’s recommendation, if you relate to any of the following scenarios.

• Your anchor rode is relatively lightweight.
• Your boat is relatively heavier than other boats with similar dimensions.
• Your boat is usually anchored in an area where weather change is unpredictable and quick.
• Your boat is big and wide relatively.
• The anchored area has a lot of windage.
• You’re planning an offshore sea voyage .

On the other hand, when it comes to sizing down your anchor size, the typical suggestion is that you don’t do it unless and until you check these conditions.

• You’re well aware of what type of seabed you will be anchoring your boat in.
• You never anchor your boat for a long duration or overnight.
• The wind speed of your sailing area never exceeds 10 knots.
• Your anchor rode is too big and heavy for your lightweight boat.

Now that we all know how to choose the right boat anchor size for your boat let’s have a brief look at a few common mistakes sailors repeatedly make while anchoring their boat.

• Losing anchor in a trip is definitely not a new piece of news to experienced sailors. Many forget to secure the anchor line to the boat and simply throw the anchor into the water body.

Given this, many experts recommend sailors at least own two anchors on board with them during their journey.

• The anchor line can be messy to deal with, given how long they are. Often, sailors or the person on the foredeck make the mistake of letting the anchor go with their foot wrapped in the rope. That’s a pretty risky scenario.

Remember that when it comes to boat anchors , the bigger, the better unless the weight of the anchor is too heavy for your boat or it is too difficult to retrieve manually.

Also, for multihulls, many brands, including Spade and Rocna, suggest the buyers to up the size than recommended in the guide.

We hope you could form a clear idea on your head regarding the sizing of the boat anchor you require after reading this post. Let us know in case of any more queries!

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Welcome to Worry-free Anchoring

When looking for an anchor you want to make sure it digs in the first time, buries deep, has high holding power and holds when winds or currents shift.

For sailboats we have taken every bit of windage, shape and weight distribution into consideration. This all affects how the anchor launches, sets and re-sets.

We have a good range of sailboat anchors to suit all boating adventures, keeping your family safe and ensuring your anchoring experience is stress free.

The right sailboat anchor will depend on the type and size of your sailboat, where you plan to go sailing, and the weather conditions that you expect to encounter. If you are not sure which anchor is right for you, use our simple anchor calculator – link below.

 Sailboat Anchor Range

Supreme Anchor (SHHP)

12 Sizes: 5 - 150lbs

Boss Anchor

11 Sizes: 5 - 150lbs

Racer Anchor

10 Sizes: 2.2 - 35lbs

Plough Anchor (HHP)

17 Sizes: 10 - 300lbs

Ray Anchor (HHP)

Sand Anchor

What size anchor do i need, the manson anchor difference, why buy a manson anchor.

Global Leader

We are the experts in anchoring. We’ve been doing this since 1972, that’s almost 50 years’ experience making anchors. We are the desired anchor brand, chosen by serious boaters all over the world; from the rugged coastlines of Western Australia, to Florida and the Mediterranean. You are in safe hands. 

Largest Range in the World

We understand the unique challenges of anchoring and we know all boats are not equal, so we design and build anchors to suit every situation – from small craft through to superyachts. Don’t settle for a standard anchor. Get the anchor that will be perfect for  your boating needs and keep you and your family safe.

Made in New Zealand

Our anchors are proudly crafted in New Zealand by Lloyd’s Register approved welders using certified Lloyd’s Register approved materials in a specialist facility. They are not  made cheaply in developing countries who have little respect for quality, the environment or what it means to anchor safely. This means you are buying a quality anchor that you can rely on.

We are trusted to make anchors for some of the best shipyards in the world who build exquisite superyachts and sophisticated defense vessels. This means that you’re buying the same brand selected by superyacht owners and their captains. Simply put, you are choosing an anchor from the world’s leading anchor brand. Anchor with the world’s best.

What our customers say about us

David Forester

Mississippi, usa.

I would like to tell you that 25LB Manson Supreme held my 23’ Pro Line Walk around like it was nothing. Where I anchored is a lot of sand, the anchor caught right away and the wind and waves that buffeted the boat around did not budge it. The fluke anchor I have would always slip, and I would have to reset the anchorage. I can safely say this is the best anchor I have ever had. I am so impressed I am looking into a smaller one for my stern (second) anchor.

Aaron Dixon

New zealand.

I have toured the Manson factory on many occasions and have witnesses first-hand the quality of workmanship in full swing. The attention to detail they take in the selection of the metals, fabrication processes, welding and casting is amazing. Any vessel I own will always be fitted with a Manson Anchor.

Big Angry Fish

The holding power of the Manson Boss will help you stay on that perfect fishing spot regardless of the conditions.

The Manson Anchor will dig in first time so you can get lines over the side straight away.

The sliding shaft is a great feature that makes it so much easier to retrieve the anchor from foul ground.

It is so important for every fisherman to have a good anchor onboard, we recommended the Manson Boss to everyone!

FLORIDA, USA

Thanks to my Manson Supreme I survived Hurricane Sally in Florida. As winds reached 110mph there was an incredible amount of force at work, but my 80lb Manson Supreme held my Roberts DS440 steel sailboat, while I watched boats around me sink. I was very impressed and grateful. When the winds subsided, we found we had bent shackles and bent rollers, but the anchor was in perfect condition.

Graham McKenzie

Wellington, new zealand.

In the 6 & 1/2 years we have travelled more than 45,000 miles, visited 26 countries, and have anchored at least 1000 times. We have yet to use any other anchor than our Manson Plough. It has been totally reliable in thin coral sands, in mud and in the treacherous grasses of the Mediterranean. Most of our cruising friends changed their anchoring tackle after disastrous anchoring experiences in the Med. Many were using locally made anchors. We never needed to consider a new option. The Manson also coped well in areas with strong tidal flow, such as the amazon with it’s 7 knot current. We have had the chain re-galvanized twice in the course of our travels, but the anchor is only just requiring attention. Thanks to you folks at Manson for an anchor that has truly passed the test of time… and distance.

West Marine

The Boss takes the performance of the Supreme and makes it conform to any bow-roller. The Boss works well on power and fishing boats that don’t work with the bow.

The winglets work as a bow-roller to ensure a reliable and quick setting anchor much like the Supreme.

This is an incredibly fast setting, high holding power anchor.

NZ Trade and Enterprise

Auckland, new zealand.

Manson Anchors took a basic component of every boat, and considerably redesigned it to be not only aesthetically pleasing but a real feature on one of the best yachts in the world. This is a real skill and shows again New Zealanders’ ability to create a design that not only solves a problem but does so very eloquently indeed

Brian Bearden

New providence, bahamas.

The Manson Supreme is reliable. Sets quickly, resets quickly, usually no more than the anchors length. Happy in mud, sand, grass. Best anchor we have ever had. Rode out hurricane Joaquin (25 miles west of the eye) anchor didn’t budge in sustained winds of 85 knots. We used this anchor as our main and storm anchor.

Colin Goldsworthy

We were caught out at Wangaparpara in what I would call a cyclone. It caught us off guard. We had a lee shore, a short scope, in poor holding with only 2 meters under the keel. We had no time to put down a second anchor.

During the next two days we experienced extreme gusts coming off the hills with swell entering the Harbour. That evening there was 95 knots gusts recorded at Channel Island. Our boat is 48 foot, and has plenty of windage. She sails on her anchor. We would sail up, go broadside and then get laid over with the gusts and swell beam on. Your anchor did not budge. The first night I sat and anchor watched, but the second night I was more confident and I slept.

That night many boats dragged their moorings and ended up on the beach. Your Supreme Anchor is great insurance.

Brian Holloway

We were just starting on our adventure, which turned into the most exciting six month trip I have ever undertaken. We travelled over 4000 nautical miles, completely circumnavigating New Zealand in the wake of Captain Cook. What was interesting in that in the whole of the six months we only spent 15 nights at sea. My aim was to see New Zealand, and we rock hopped visiting everywhere possible, and consequently anchoring most nights. I have a 35lb Manson Supreme holding a 35 foot catamaran, weighing 5 tons. We make a reasonable amount of windage. I felt that a 35lb looked a bit small, but in six months, on very varied types of bottoms there was not one night when we dragged. A marvellous anchor, that I would recommend to anyone.

Tom McCallum

My 15lb Manson Supreme provided a heroic task in holding my 6 ton yacht all night in hurricane conditions in a bay with bad press on its seabed. Needless to say my faith in these anchors is profound and their design and tenacity legendary. I would use no other.

Types of Anchors: How to Choose the Right Size Anchor

Most new boats do not come equipped with an anchor, but every boat should have one on board. You may want to drop the anchor to hold the boat in a secluded cove for an afternoon of relaxation or even an overnight stay , or just to hold your boat over fishing structure.

The anchor is most important as a critical item of safety gear . If you should lose power, it’s the anchor that’s going to keep your boat from drifting into peril, be it rocks or another shoal, or the dangers of a surf-swept shoreline. The best anchor first depends on the size and type of your boat.

A tall sportfishing boat or power cruiser that can catch a lot of wind will need heavier gear, for example, then a low-profile bass boat . Boats used for long-distance cruising may need to anchor in rough weather, and on a variety of bottoms, and thus will need not only heavier gear but also several different anchors suitable for different bottom conditions.

How to Anchor a Boat: Step-by-Step Guide

Consult a Boat Anchor Size Chart

Anchor manufacturer guidance, usually based on boat length, can be a good starting point to determine which size anchor is appropriate for your boat. If your boat is heavier than typical boats of that length, or presents more windage, you should select a larger anchor.

The same logic applies if you frequent an area with high winds. Generally, the bigger the anchor, the better, but the anchor’s holding power in the bottom, rather than its weight, is what really matters. Always keep your ground tackle (the anchor and its rode, or line) ready to deploy at a moment’s notice.

Types of Boat Anchors 

Once you have a better idea of what size anchor you need for your boat, you'll also want to consider the type of anchor. Let's explore some of the most popular options available for boaters when it comes to anchors.

Mushroom Anchor

Very large mushroom anchors are used for moorings or securing buoys. Small mushroom anchors may be effective in the softest river bottom but have minimal holding power. They should be used only for personal watercrafts , small aluminum fishing boats , or dinghies .

Danforth or Fluke Anchor

This style of anchor is a good choice for smaller boats because it folds flat and is easy to stow, and has great holding power for its weight. Its wide, sharp flukes sink into sand and hard-mud bottoms, but are less effective in deep mud or a grassy bottom. If the wind shifts and boat drifts over the anchor and then in the opposite direction from which it was set, a Danforth anchor can pull free.

Plow Anchor

A plow anchor is a little more cumbersome than a Danforth, and is a good choice if the anchor is secured on a bow roller rather than in an anchor locker in the boat. A plow anchor has a single penetrating point and is more likely to reset itself if boat position changes. It can be more effective than the Danforth in light grass, has the strength to hold in a rocky bottom if it gets a good grip, and does well in soft bottoms.

Claw Anchor

This non-folding anchor is similar to the plow anchor, but has a broader scoop shape that works well in mud, clay or sandy bottoms. These anchors are also strong enough to hold on a rocky bottom. A claw anchor will re-set quickly if the wind changes. It may not work well on a very hard bottom, or in thick vegetation, both challenging for all types of anchors. This anchor is also best-suited to installation with a bow roller or windlass .

Grapnel Anchor

Shaped like a grappling hook, this anchor has multiple tines or points, and is designed to grab onto structure on the bottom—such as rocks or submerged timber—rather than sink into the bottom. The tines usually fold up along the shank so that the anchor is more compact for stowage. On some models the tines are designed to bend to make it easier to retrieve the anchor if it becomes snagged on bottom structure. The tines can them be bent back into shape. Grapnel anchors are available in many sizes, including very small models for jon boats , skiffs or small boats , like kayaks.

Read Next: How to Tie Up a Boat: Mooring Guide

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Anchor Sizing Guide

Anchor sizing guide report.

An anchor is one of the most important critical boat safety devices. Proper anchor placement can keep your boat from drifting into dangerous areas if your boat loses power. The best anchor depends first and foremost on the size and type of your boat.

Large ships or yachts that can capture a lot of wind will require heavier anchors. Boats used for long-distance cruising may need to be anchored in rough weather and on various bottoms, thus requiring heavier gears and several different anchors suitable for different bottom conditions. Here this post shares the anchor sizing guideline.

An anchor is an essential safety device for any ship; its main function is to fix and stabilize the ship. The best anchor selection is usually based on the length and weight of the boat. The weather and anchoring conditions you generally encounter should also be considered. No one anchor will work for you in every situation, so if you have space to carry two anchors, preferably of different types and sizes. Many people carry a small anchor for a short stay and a larger working or storm anchor. The anchor with sufficient size should be strong to hold your boat for an extended period, like overnight or in an emergency, such as if you run out of gas.

Recommended Anchor Size Chart

You can find the recommended anchor sizes based on various types, l engths, and weights of the boat in the below table.

Common Anchor Types

Once you have a better idea of what size anchor your boat will need, you will also want to consider the type of anchor. Let's explore some of the most popular options for crews when exploring anchors.

• Mushroom Anchor

Very large mushroom anchors are used for mooring or securing buoys. Small mushroom anchors may be effective on soft river bottoms but have minimal grip; they should only be used on personal watercraft and small fishing boats.

• Fluke Or Danforth Anchor

This anchor style is a good choice for smaller boats because it folds flat for easy grip, and its heavy weight allows it to sink stably into the sand and hard mud bottoms, but it doesn't work well in deep mud or grass.

• Reef Anchor

Reef anchors are great for coral reefs and rocky bottoms. Many boaters choose to hand-weld and DIY reef anchors.

• Claw Anchor

Claw anchors have a wider shape and work well on the muddy or sandy sea bottom. These anchors are also strong enough to grip the ground on rocky bottoms. It may not perform adequately on very loose bottoms or thick vegetation, which is challenging for all types of anchors.

• Plough Anchor

Plough anchors have a single penetrating point attached to the central shank and are ideal for sandy, muddy, and weed bottoms. You might notice arched shanks in modern plow anchor designs. This anchor type is also great for rocky bottom uses as long as it gets a good grip.

• Grapnel Anchor

Shaped like a grappling hook, this folding grapnel anchor has multiple prongs or points and is designed to grab onto structures at the bottom - such as rocks or submerged wood, rather than sinking into the bottom. These anchors are great for small vessels, inflatables, and jet skis and are recommended by many as secondary or emergency anchors.

Are you anchoring in very deep water? If so, choosing an anchor one size up would be best and allow you to set the anchor faster and with less line. Anchoring in a calm protected cove can be quite different than anchoring offshore or on a large open bay. You should also check the weather; high winds, tides, and waves make anchoring difficult. The above chart can be used as a starting point based on your boat size. You can choose from several different models depending on the conditions you will be in and the storage space you have.

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Fortress Selection Guide

• Exclusive Features
• Fluke Position
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• Selection Guide

Boat anchor size recommendations are for boats of average windage and proportions in 30 knots of wind, average bottom conditions, and moderate protection from open seas. Remember that the loads in 42 knots of wind are twice as much as in 30 knots.

Use three-strand nylon rope, 6-12 ft (2-4 m) of chain and a minimum of 5:1 scope. Also, a minimum of 6 ft (2 m) of chain should be used for every 25 ft (8 m) of water depth. For storm conditions use an anchor one or two sizes larger.

Mobile users please scroll to the right to find your boat length and anchor model selection.

Note:  Hard sand holding power figures above represent loads actually achieved on production Fortress and Guardian anchors under controlled horizontal pull conditions without dragging or resulting in disabling structural deformation.

Have questions? Check out our frequently asked questions page.

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Essential Anchor Sizing Guide: Secure Your Sea Adventure

Ever dropped an anchor only to find your boat adrift? Fear not, sea wanderer! Dive into our guide and anchor down that wanderlust with the perfect fit for your aquatic escape!

We put anchors on boats to keep the vessel safe and secure in a specific location and to manage the boat as best as possible during foul weather. Any old anchor will not suffice. You should have the right anchor – one that is the right size for the boat, that is made to work reliably based on the bed where it will rest, and it must be set properly with the appropriate supporting materials.

An anchor may weigh anywhere from 5 lbs to upwards of 2,000 lbs for non-commercial boats. Knowing how heavy an anchor should be is dependent on factors such as boat length, type of seabed/floor, type of boat. Weather conditions also play a role in determining the appropriate anchor size and type.

Right up there with life jackets, an anchor is a significant piece of safety hardware. Leaving the dock without an anchor is sheer lunacy and you’d be surprised at the number of times this actually happens. Always check to make sure there’s an anchor on board and, if you’re a prudent, savvy boater, you won’t leave the dock without two anchors.

Anchor Size Chart

Because folks like an instant answer, we’ve provided this anchor-sizing table as a resource. However, keep reading for more specific information and factors that will impact your final selection of an anchor. You’ll even see why we recommend having multiple anchors on your boat!

This chart provides information on suitable anchor sizes and types for different sized boats. Use the chart as a resource and in conjunction with the anchor manufacturer’s guidelines. 

Different Types of Boat Anchors

Below, we'll dive into several different types of boat anchors and explain a bit about them. This will help you to understand why some are not useful on larger vessels.

Plough Anchor

A plough anchor slightly resembles a pickaxe in that it has a one-pointed penetration point at the end of the shank. Plough anchors can be hinged or unhinged.

With a hinged plough anchor, the shank can swing back and forth from the giant single, spade-shaped fluke. The hinge allows the chain to have a broader scope of motion. Hinged plough anchors receive mixed results from boaters. Some people think the hinge compromises the integrity of the anchor; others feel the opposite.

Unhinged plough anchors combine the angled, fluke design and weight of the overall anchor to hold a boat effectively. They set fast and are not often impacted by tides or the wind. The unhinged plough anchor will stow easily on common anchor rollers. 

Regardless of hinged or unhinged, the spade-like fluke works well in hard, sandy, muddy, and weedy bottoms. If the bottom is too smooth or loose, a plough anchor may have the tendency to drag on a too-smooth bottom. 

Folding Grapnel Anchor

Perfect for inland and short-term use in areas with little current, a folding grapnel anchor looks like an opened flower with four petals. These four tines can hook to craggy, jagged bottoms, heavy weeds, coral, and stone. They are typically made of galvanized steel which has ample weight and is rust-resistant. 

To use a folding grapnel, prior to putting it in the water, the petal-like grapnels are laid flat. Then a centerpiece is twisted into place. This locks the four tines in an outward position, perfect for gripping.

Typically, a grapnel is used by smaller boats, jet skis, and dinghies. Some boats have a grapnel on board for use as an emergency anchor.

Mushroom Anchor

As the name suggests, a mushroom anchor is shaped like the familiar fungus upside down. Best for waters with a delicate, sandy seabed, the mushroom anchor’s round head becomes buried in the sand. 

They serve as ballast for smaller boats as well as kayaks and canoes. Some are vinyl-coated so as to minimize scratches and scrapes to the boat’s finish. 

Extremely large mushroom anchors are actually used to secure oil rigs, lightships, and dredges, as they become deeply embedded into the seabed and have terrific holding power.

Spade With Roll Bar Anchor

A newly engineered anchor, spades with roll bars offer extra holding power. The fluke’s weight rolls the anchor around the roll-bar so as to pivot the shank’s end.

These anchors tend to dig in fast and securely. Because of the roll bar, the spade anchors with this feature are not ideal for stowing on bow rollers. 

Reef Anchor

Typically made out of aluminum, a reef anchor is uniquely flexible so as to be releasable from the anchored position. The tines actually bend so the anchor works well on rock bottoms, jetties, and reefs. That is because, with the right amount of pressure, the tines bend enough to slip free from the bottom. 

Lightweight and easily stowed, the reef anchor is sometimes handmade and welded by do-it-yourself boaters. Watching a few reef anchor videos on YouTube is a good way to see exactly how these unique anchors work and how to DIY one for your own boat.

One distinction of a reef anchor is that often rather than hoisting them back up when you’re ready to leave, you simply drive the boat forward. This motion pulls the anchor enough to bend the tines, releasing it from its lodging. Don’t forget to bend the tines back into place before you use them the next time!

Claw Anchor / Bruce Anchor

Because they are simply constructed, claw anchors tend to be less expensive than other anchor styles. Shaped like a hand grip, the anchor may tip any which way when deployed and properly set. 

Originally designed to secure oil rigs in the North Sea, smaller versions are constructed of high-grade steel and suitable for most seabeds. A claw anchor is very suitable for an anchor roller platform for convenient stowing, ease of access, and use.

Compared to a plough anchor, a claw anchor will have a wider scoop shape. Like a plough anchor, it isn’t as effective on loose sand bottoms as it is on hard sand, muddy, and even rocky sea bottoms.

Danforth Anchor / Fluke Anchor

Somewhat similar to the plough anchor, because it swings or hinges (at a point called the tripping ring), the fluke anchor’s flukes look like two tall triangles secured to a rod perpendicular to the shaft. This rod, known as the stock, extends beyond each of the triangular flukes.

Referred to as a Danforth or lightweight anchor as well, the fluke anchor is by far the most popular type of anchor. Smaller boats will often use a fluke anchor as their one and only anchor. A fluke anchor is lightweight which is always nice. 

Because it folds flat, it stows nicely and neatly. Flukes anchor well in both mud and sand but not so much in rocky and grassy beds. This is because of the stock – the long metal rod that connects the two flukes. It extends beyond the flukes. The two end points of the rod are prone to fouling on both the rocks and the anchor rode.

For a rough seabed, the gap that is present between the flukes enables better grip-ability. The flukes’ orientation is changeable; however, 30 degrees is the angle recommended for best grip success.

Wing Anchor

A solid one-piece design makes the wing anchor a very popular choice for boat manufacturers’ standard equipment. It has excellent holding power, better than that of a plough anchor, and sets easily on most bottom types. Wing anchors will fit most bow rollers and are also self-launching.

Because a wing anchor has a higher ratio of holding power to weight, boaters can get away with a less weightier anchor than other plow anchors. 

What Factors Do I Need to Consider When Buying A Boat Anchor?

The primary factors affecting an anchor’s suitability for a specific boat includes the size of that boat, the type of boat, and the environment in which the anchor will be used, including the seabed or lake floor and the current. Other considerations include wind conditions and the actual type of anchor.

Most anchors come with size guidelines for use supplied by the manufacturer of the anchor. Make sure you pay attention to this. When in doubt, it is usually a good idea to go up in size. Erring on choosing the larger size when it comes to anchors is rarely an error. 

Seriously, don’t skimp on size. Take it up a size (or two) and know that you’re purchasing extra peace of mind. This will make sleep come a bit easier as you’re rolling back and forth in your bunk when the wind begins to howl your first night away from the dock.

Anchors have a variety of features or factors that make them different from one another in terms of suitability for a boat. Let’s take a look at each of those factors next.

Your boat’s specifications including length and weight (as well as design type) influence the kind of anchor you will need to use. Boats may be the same length but vastly different in weight so boat length alone should not be considered. A boat that weighs 10,000 pounds that is 30’ in length will require more anchor than another 30’ boat that is only 6,000 pounds. 

Review the anchor size chart we have included in this article. Consider boat size and weight of the boat too.   Always check with the anchor manufacturer’s recommendations too. 

Anchor Weight

Relative to the size of the boat, an anchor may be of lighter weight or heavier weight. Measured in pounds, anchors can weigh from 5 lbs (for a jon boat or small skiff/dinghy) to hundreds of pounds for a large recreational boat (sailboat, cabin cruiser) in the 100+’ range.

An anchor must be light enough to be lifted by a person (or anchor lift) from the bottom of the floor. It should be able to be tossed overboard without being so cumbersome as to compromise the boater’s safety. The anchor must be heavy enough to handle the upward pull from the boat.

These days, as anchor design has improved, anchor weight isn’t always the predominant factor, but it certainly remains an important one.

Seabed Type

Because people use watercraft in so many different environments, some discussion of seabeds is needed. Seabeds can be sandy. They can be muddy. Others will be rocky. Others will be weedy. A nice, hard sandy bottom is a terrific place for most anchors to dig securely. 

For boaters who spend time in shallow estuaries or at river deltas, muddy seabeds are the norm. Often, beneath the soft mud, there is a layer of clay or hard-packed sand. This second layer is good because it gives the anchor something to bite into. 

If an anchorage is comprised of a thick, soft, muddy bottom, this can present a problem. It’s challenging for an anchor to dig and take hold in deep mud, leading to dragging which is something no one wants to have happen.

The penetration of the anchor is what fastens it to the floor. Hard sand bottoms are ideal for penetration. Weedy bottoms and soft mud floors are less than ideal for gripping. When gripping is challenged, having a weightier anchor is crucial.

Before making an anchor purchase or when checking the anchor before heading out, give some thought to where you’ll be anchoring and what the seabed is going to be like. 

Holding Power

Holding power is a rating system for anchors. Holding power measures the ability of an anchor to hold a specific weight. Because of the physics of boats on water and the energy that a boat pulling against water can create, holding power needs can fluctuate.

While a boat may be fine on a serene day on the water, the holding power needs might double or triple for that same boat when skies turn dark, winds howl, and water churns violently.

Essentially, holding power ratings result from measuring the pull force an anchor should withstand to keep a certain sized boat in place. Different anchors dig differently. Bottoms of bodies of water vary widely. Anchor shapes fluctuate purposefully. Digging, bottom type, anchor shape. They all affect the tenacity of an anchor’s holding power. 

What is the Recommended Anchor Line Length?

A good rule of thumb is that the length of the line should be at least seven to ten times the depth of the water where you are setting anchor. Anchoring in 10’ of water? Plan on having 70 – 100 feet of anchor line in place.

What is Anchor Rode?

The system that connects the anchor to the boat is collectively referred to as anchor rode. The integrity and sturdiness of the mooring depends on the integrity and sturdiness of the anchor rode. 

The length of the rode is impacted by the upward pull on the anchor. If the boat is directly above the anchor (less rode), then the energy of the boat is going to yank the anchor more easily from its grip. 

With more rode, the energy on the line and chain is distributed and less intense so there is a gentler pull on the anchor. Again, take the depth of the water and multiply it by 7 to 10 times in order to gauge the length of your anchor rode.

More rode typically means better holding. That is because a horizontal pull of the anchor is much much better than a vertical pull. Think of how when you weigh anchor, you get as close to it as possible. 

There is less rode and you’re able to pull the anchor up more easily. When you want your anchor to hold, give it plenty of rode. Otherwise, your anchor may lift up off the bottom or at the very least drag along the bottom.

Does the Weight of an Anchor Matter?

Aside from the previously mentioned weight considerations noted relative to boat length and weight, , one aspect of weight to consider is not the weight of just one anchor but two. It’s a very good idea to have one substantial anchor for normal to rough conditions. 

Having a second anchor, lighter and simpler in design, used for calm water and as a backup anchor is wise. An extra anchor, one of a different weight and/or different type, is a good boating practice.

Do I Need a Chain for my Anchor?

Unless you are a kayaker or on a very small body of water, a chain should be a part of your anchor system. The chain is highly critical for several reasons. 

An anchor with a chain sets much faster and more securely. This happens because the weight of the chain pulls down on the anchor shank. Chains also help the rode lay horizontally, as opposed to being pulled upward, loosening the anchor. 

Chains are protective of the rope (nylon or otherwise, helping avoid sharp things like reefs that can cut the line, resulting in a lost anchor and a boat adrift.

Wrapping It Up

When the need arises, having an anchor that is reliable, sturdy, and correctly deployed can provide peace of mind that is truly priceless. For this reason, anchor size definitely matters. Never skimp on a too-small anchor (or anchors) for your boat, whether you own the boat, or are borrowing it or renting it. 

Check to make sure there’s an anchor on board every time. When borrowing or renting, inspect the anchor to make certain it’s suitable for the location where you’re likely to anchor and for the size of the boat.

As noted previously, when in doubt with anchor size, go up. Increase the weight of the anchor. Be a prudent boater by recognizing the critical safety and security role that is played by your anchor. Respect size and type of anchor for the various seabed environments in which you’ll be boating.

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