viking 28 sailboat review

VIKING 28 Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of VIKING 28. Built by Ontario Yachts and designed by C&C Design, the boat was first built in 1968. It has a hull type of Fin w/spade rudder and LOA is 8.59. Its sail area/displacement ratio 17.94. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by undefined, runs on undefined.

VIKING 28 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about VIKING 28 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, contributions, who designed the viking 28.

VIKING 28 was designed by C&C Design.

Who builds VIKING 28?

VIKING 28 is built by Ontario Yachts.

When was VIKING 28 first built?

VIKING 28 was first built in 1968.

How long is VIKING 28?

VIKING 28 is 6.71 m in length.

What is mast height on VIKING 28?

VIKING 28 has a mast height of 8.32 m.

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Practical Boat Owner

• Digital edition

C&C Viking 28: A bargain 1960s fin-keel yacht

• Rupert Holmes
• August 27, 2021

Built in the UK as the Trapper 28 - the accommodation on the C&C Viking 28 is cramped but the sailing is good, writes Rupert Holmes

Photo: David Harding/SailingScenes.com

This Cuthbertson & Cassian-designed 28-footer was built by Ontario Yachts in Canada from 1968 onwards. At that time the C&C Viking 28 still represented a radical concept, with a short fin keel , separate spade rudder, light displacement and low freeboard.

The boat proved well mannered, quick and seaworthy, with a number making noteworthy voyages, including competing in the inaugural AZAB race in 1975. The designers also licensed Anstey Yachts in Poole to build the boat, which they called the Trapper 28.

When Anstey encountered financial difficulties in 1970 the company was taken over by Deacons on the river Hamble, although production remained mostly in Poole.

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Accommodation on the Trapper 28 was small, even by the standards of the time. This was improved on the later Trapper 400, in which the heads area is moved out of the forecabin and into a narrow space between there and the saloon, though this model still lacks full standing headroom.

These drawbacks mean that even good examples can change hands today for remarkably little money, so it can be a good option as an offshore capable yacht for anyone who doesn’t need to maximise accommodation space.

C&C Viking 28 / Trapper 28 specification

LOA: 8.60m / 28ft 2in LWL: 6.70m / 22ft 0in Beam: 2.50m / 8ft 2in Draught: 1.45m / 4ft 9in Displacement: 2,170kg / 4,755lb Ballast: 1,020kg / 2,250lb Sail area: 29m2 / 317ft2 Current market value: £2,000-£6,500 / $2,700- $9,000

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• Sailboat Guide

Viking 28 is a 28 ′ 2 ″ / 8.6 m monohull sailboat designed by C&C Design and built by Ontario Yachts between 1968 and 1983.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

This was the first of the C&C-designed Viking series built by Ontario Yachts. The VIKING 28 was also built by Anesty Yachts in England and renamed the TRAPPER 28/400. 70 were built along with a number of other C&C designs including the C&C 27, called the TRAPPER 27, and the C&C 35. Although initially offered in kit form, many subsequent Vikings were professionally finished. A number of modifications to the design were made in 1974, and included the addition wider companionway with a pop-top hatch. The mast step area and vee-berth were altered to strengthen the hull. The VIKING 28 was available with either an outboard well, or a 7 hp Vire two-cycle gasoline inboard. Photo courtesy Adam Hunt.

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Review of Viking 28

Basic specs..

The boat is typically equipped with an inboard engine.

Sailing characteristics

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?

The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 6.3 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

Sorry, we do not have sufficient statistical information available for this boat to provide a significant reliable analysis.

Maintenance

Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale

If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.

This section shown boat owner's changes, improvements, etc. Here you might find inspiration for your boat.

Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what to look for.

We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for Viking 28 it would be a great help.

If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.

The Viking 28 is a 28.17ft masthead sloop designed by Cuthbertson & Cassian and built in fiberglass by Ontario Yachts between 1968 and 1983.

147 units have been built..

The Viking 28 is a moderate weight sailboat which is a reasonably good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a good righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a day-boat.

Viking 28 for sale elsewhere on the web:

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need info about Viking 28 sailboat

Discussion in ' Sailboats ' started by Jim Bethea , Dec 4, 2003 .

Jim Bethea Junior Member

I am rebuilding a 1960 Viking 28' (LWL) cutter built of wood in Yugoslavia. Eighteen of these were sold in the US through a New York dealer. Most ended up in the Bahamas or southwards. Four came to the West coast, including this one. Mine was left derelict in the Bellingham, Washington area by someone from California. I've heard there was another caught in a storm for several days in the Pacific but came through without problem. Other than that, I can find no mention of these boats. Overall length is about 37', beam 11', depth 3.5'. Mast folds back on tabernacle (for use in European canals?), 18' main boom, cutter rigged for two headsails, teak deaks, white pine(?) planking over oak ribs, sleeps four, bronze centerboard, MDIIb Volvo diesel engine, etc. I'd like to know more about this Viking-style hull shape and to see photos under sail. The hull is sound though I am replacing the deck and cabin. The original has sitting headroom only so I'm thinking of adding a pilot house aft. Any suggestions? Also, anyone know where the others are and who built them/ where?  

Darrell B Guest

Viking 28' Jim - awsome unit. I am no expert but did crew on a 70's Viking 28. Raced in many series and I am sure that it will be worth the effort to fix/restore. Good luck, Darrell Jim Bethea said: I am rebuilding a 1960 Viking 28' (LWL) cutter built of wood in Yugoslavia. Eighteen of these were sold in the US through a New York dealer. Most ended up in the Bahamas or southwards. Four came to the West coast, including this one. Mine was left derelict in the Bellingham, Washington area by someone from California. I've heard there was another caught in a storm for several days in the Pacific but came through without problem. Other than that, I can find no mention of these boats. Overall length is about 37', beam 11', depth 3.5'. Mast folds back on tabernacle (for use in European canals?), 18' main boom, cutter rigged for two headsails, teak deaks, white pine(?) planking over oak ribs, sleeps four, bronze centerboard, MDIIb Volvo diesel engine, etc. I'd like to know more about this Viking-style hull shape and to see photos under sail. The hull is sound though I am replacing the deck and cabin. The original has sitting headroom only so I'm thinking of adding a pilot house aft. Any suggestions? Also, anyone know where the others are and who built them/ where? Click to expand...

Captain Bob 1 New Member

Viking 28 I have owned a 27 ft. sloop built in Yugoslavia in 1962 imported by a company named Sailing USA the same company that imported the Viking double enders that you have. I bought her in 1975 and I still have her 36 years later.  

Richard HTerry New Member

Viking 28 Built in Yugoslavia My father, Myron E Terry of Blaine, Wn. Bought a Viking at the Seattle Boat Show in the mid 50's. He really enjoyed this boat and kept her (named "Adria" in Blaine , sailing extensively on Puget Sound and into Canadian waters. Myron,(who incidently helped organized the Yacht Club in Blaine) when he good too old, sold Adia to a Mr. Murray Goff, a Blaine businessman who still lives in Blaine, now retired. ( I recently contacted him to see if he had a snapshot of Adria, but no luck there) Murray Goff eventually sold Adria and he told me she was beached and damaged by a latter owner in the Anacortes area. Then resold and Mr. Goff thought she was eventually sunk near Port Angeles and lost. He was unsure if this was the boat's fate. I beleive Adria may have been the 1st Viking sold in the area. She was stout and well found and my Dad had some great years with her. Would it be possible for you to Email me a photo of your Viking. My son, the 3rd generation yachtsman, woul like a photo of a boat similar to his Grandad's to decorate his Nav. Station. If you can, my Email is [email protected] . Alternately, my mailing address is Richard Terry 105 Sunset Dr. Cocoa Beach Fl.32931. Best Regards-Dick  

mkdesign Viking 23

Viking I know this thread is outdated but I am hopeful someone is still watching this. I just came across a viking 23'. At this time she is doing sea trials and will be properly surveyed shortly. At the very least, it is good to know of someone else who has a boat of this type. Both the 23 and 28 are nearly identical except length (i have seen the original brochure). If anyone knows of someone or it is you who still has one of the 28' or even a 23, please let me know. From the very few i know who have owned one, they are reported to be extremely tough little boats and handle very well.  

crzycrzy New Member

Vikings everywhere The Viking at the beginning of this questions is not the same ones as the Viking 23 or 28 that mkdesign is speaking of. There are a number of 23's and 28's up here in Toronto, I own a sistership, a Blue Jacket 23  

update on my Viking 28 I've had this boat nearly 15 years now. In a gale under reefed main it jogs along at 2kts 'hove to' or with a twitch of the tiller (or wheel in the pilot house) can take off at hull speed under perfect control. An early concern of mine had been what would happen if knocked down. Would it recover since it doesn't have any ballast and with a broad flat bottom? So far, the incredible form stability of the hull has kept it standing on its feet in all conditions. The nearly flat bottom does pound a bit when beating upwind in really choppy seas. It's shoal draft qualities in our shallow anchorages of the Inside Passage more than compensate for this however. In retrospect, I think a broad transom and wider cockpit would be an advantage if it tapered to a double-ender at the waterline. Other than that, the Viking 28 continues to be a delight to sail. Does any one else have insights to share about the sailing qualities of a double-ended cutter?  

V 28 photo in Deception Pass, WA 2015 http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=105683&stc=1&d=1454875194  

Attached Files:

Viking 28 2015.jpg.

domagoj Junior Member

Viking 28 Hi Jim, very nice boat. I have similar one bought in Croatia, and i am rebuilding it. This is how it looked when i bought it. I restored the hull from the inside and from the outside was already fiberglassed. I completely removed the cabin and deck, and now i am planing to rebuild. I like your pilothouse, i'd like to see more pictures.  

P3230037.jpg

Viking 28 Those boats were built in Betina, vilage with small shipyard on Murter Island in Croatian part of Adriatic sea, in '60 and '70, and most of them were exported in USA. Croatia is the former republic of the ex Yugoslav federation, and today is a sovereign, independent country. Unfortunately, the technical director of the shipyard at that time was Šime Šandrić, who was in charge of the construction of these boats, died two years ago and now there are very few people who have information about these boats. I am not aware who is designer. Someone says Sime Šandrić, and the other that the design came from the US importer: Sailing U.S.A. Most of the boats were exported to the United States, just a few remained in Croatia.  

Viking 28 Here is few pictures:  

8f31ee0f01704ed5ab8bdd1eca388a39.jpg

Ab22474d550a4db586f7bb63e2ec8e94.jpg.

David thompson New Member

1960 Viking 23 Hi Domago, Thanks so much for the pics you posted. My boat looks just like the add picture. I got her in 1985 , 2500 hrs of loving labor and have been sailing her ever since. Dave  

1960 Viking 23 Hi Dave, I'm glad to hear that. I'm trying to gather as much information about these boats, especially those that have been renovated and sailing. I'd like to see some pictures if possible. These boats are part of the history of Croatian wooden boatbuilding and any information or image is precious. Domagoj  

Pic of Viking 23 Here is a picture of my Viking 23 last year. I have photo album of complete restoration project. However, the pictures are taken with 35 millimeter camera. If you would like, I can digitally photograph and post them. Dave  

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Hi Dave, looks very nice, even more beautiful than I expected. I don't know if in Croatia there is any remaining Viking 23, so this picture is especially valuable. I would appreciate if you could post pictures of restoration. Can I publish this photo on facebook group HRVATSKI DRVENI BRODOVI - CROATIAN WOODEN BOATS? Domagoj  

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Ontario Yachts Viking 33 advice

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Hello all, I've had the boat surveyed and the surveyor loved the boat! He said I'd probably be very happy with it and that it was in incredible shape. Very little moisture in the decks, almost none in fact. The only place that showed any cause for concern was up at the bow around the cleat. I plan on adding a windlass so I'll remove the cleat and some more of the deck in that process. I could then let it air out and remove any more of the core as necessary and replace with epoxy or inject some to try and re-laminate if necessary. I could use some advice on adding an anchor roller as the fitting doesn't really leave any accommodation for it... I, also, plan on replacing the standing and running rigging to start and add a way of handling the mainsail more easily. i.e. dutchman or lazy jacks with some cars added to remove some friction for raising and lowering (mostly lowering). My next question would be in regard to the mast step. It is my understanding the the original mast step was wooden. My boat has a piece of 6" aluminum channel that was bolted thru the adjacent seat base and bulkhead and lagged to the bilge stringer. The piece of channel is terribly corroded and needs replacing. I was thinking of trying to get a piece of 6" stainless channel and have it machined to the exact likeness of the aluminum and bolt it right back to where it was. I was hoping to get some opinions on the repair. Thanks for any and all comments and advice in advance! Humbly, Danny  

These are very pretty boats, a classic C&C design and they go upwind very well indeed..somewhat narrow and confined below compared to many others, but a sweet sailing boat just the same. They are from the extreme era of IOR rigs with a long J measurement and very high aspect short E mains meaning huge kites and genoas.. this can lead to a handful downwind in a breeze if you're not careful about sail selection and apparent wind angles. (the dreaded 'death rolls'). However all this is avoidable if you're careful and keep an eye on a building breeze from behind. Your plan for the mast step sounds fine - having a metal replacement is already an improvement, and is an indication that she's been looked after. Finding a fabricator to make you a new one at a reasonable price might be a challenge. She does have a great 'row away' factor!!  

The main difference between the Viking 33 and Ontario 32 is that the Viking was designed more for racing, while the Ontario is designed for coastal cruising. On the inside, the Viking has a quarter berth, where the Ontario has a nav station. The Ontario has 2 more feet of beam, 2 more inches of headroom, and is 4' 6" draft compared to 6' for the Viking. Also, Ontario usually had a small Yanmar diesel, while the Viking had an Atomic-4 gasoline engine. The Vikings are usually priced lower than the Ontarios, Though the build quality of my 84 Ontario does not ensure that of a 70's model like the Viking, I would expect it to be well built. I've made the comparison because both boats were built by Ontario.  

We owned a Viking 28 from the late 60s for 10 years.. little sister to the 33, also a C&C design. One sweet boat too, simple, lacking headroom but therefore still 'pretty', and was a superb platform for us to cut our teeth on and bring our young son into the sailing world (he was 18 days old first time out on her). We never had any kind of structural issue with the boat, and it sailed nicely in most all conditions. It was, however, a less severe rig with shorter J and longer E relatively speaking and was nicely manageable downwind until it really got snotty. That boat will always have a special place in our hearts.  

Yea I have much anticipation about this boat. I think once I get the rigging squared away and install the windlass and roller it all cosmetic at that point. i've read all I can find abou the boat and it all seems pretty positive. This is the first I've heard of the 'death roll' situation. I guess the ket to staying out of that is not to sail ddw... My sailing experience is about 5 years on an O'Day 22 and now I've jumped up this beauty! I've dropped off the corroded aluminum step and am having one made out of 1/4" stainless. The guy is charging me $125.00 Seemed pretty reasonable to me. I had this same guy do some plate work on the failing transom of a 18' checkmate i used to own. He does great work. Any thoughts as to how to handle the roller?  

SloopDogg said: .....Any thoughts as to how to handle the roller? Click to expand...

I think you're right...the fabricator...I wonder if i could actually remove the fitting and maybe have a new made all together...the price could be frightening, though. I think I need to look at some newer boats and see how it is handled to get some ideas. As well as how some older boats have handled it.  

I was born and raised on a viking 28, I love the boat,solid build from the good ole days which you don't see anymore. Exellent choice enjoy the ride in a classic.  

From my Ontario 32  

Attachments

That looks good. It seems the deck was cut away and a line locker dropped in and then a panel with the windlass added and bolted down. what about that bow fitting? was that original to the boat?  

Standard or tall rig? Ontario offered the tall rig with a tappered mast. They were alodined and clear coated but some owners opted for finished matte black or gloss Awlgrip. All Ontario 32 and Viking 33/33T spars & rigging were built one off by Fritz (he apprentised at Abekking and Rasmussen and passed away last year at 74) & Nick at F & N Yacht Services in Toronto. No doubt the rigging has/will be replaced. F & N was my first full time job, would be great to hear how the rig has endured. Enjoy!  

Well, it is a standard rig. I guess later in the 70s they used a taller rig and called it a Viking 34 with a different keel. Visually the rig looks fine. I just don't know if I can trust it. I know the mast has been down over the last 4-5 years as the boat has been sitting in the yard. I guess I could have it tested. However I wonder what that would cost and is it money better spent on new rigging and removing doubt about condition. I'm going to try and call Just Rigging today I think.  

The bow fitting is standard, to the best of my knowledge. The area where the windlass is was custom made to replace a piece of stainless steel that had been laid over the delaminated locker lid where the old windlass was mounted. The back half of the lid we just rebuilt.  

Yea that is nice. I have no locker at all. There is a locker at the bow separated by a bulkhead to the V-birth. There really seems to be quite a bit of room up there. I'm not sure how to handle the line just yet. I'm not too keen on the idea of just installing the windlass and allowing all that wet line to simply drop in the bow locker.  

There is a drain for my locker. In the picture you can see where the back of the locker is in the vee berth, while the deep part is in front of the vee berth.  

Well, i finally got the yard to take the mast off of the boat. Boy is she ever pretty. The head room does suffer some, but those lines...wow. So, moving forward, I'm getting some prices on the rigging. It seems the upper shrouds are newer, the roller furler is newer, therefore, the head-stay is newer. Like maybe within 10 years... The rest seems original. The question now is whether we can reuse the turnbuckles. Good news is that there is a lazy jack system already installed within the mess that's all wrapped up on the mast. I'm trying to get the yard to take care of the bottom work as well. There is a bit of a smile at the keel joint and a good biff at the bottom of the keel. That would kind of suggest a hit of some kind. If I get them to take care of that and get the standing and running rigging done. I have some painting and wiring and tune up the engine. There is no headliner in the boat and everywhere there is paint, it is peeling. My plan at the moment is to sand and repaint. I'd love some suggestions on that topic. I also plan on cleaning up the wiring. The wiring isn't bad, it is just not organized. Newer wiring, all run hap-hazard but, in good shape. I plan on trying to add some of that split flexible conduit to help clean things up. I'm also planning on getting a new carb for the engine as she doesn't want to start without starting fluid. I figure I'll buy a new one and rebuild the old one for a spare. The engine, is an atomic 4 and still raw water cooled. I'm a little nervous about that part of it. I guess there really is no way to tell how corroded the cooling ducts are or how much life is left in the old girl. I'd really rather not have to deal with that this year... I'd convert it over to electronic ignition and add the fresh water cooling but, I'm not sure it is worth the added effort for this year. I feel I have enough to do at this point. I also feel if there is a need to repower in the not to distant future I could do all that then with a new moyer engine. To be honest i really don't do a lot of motoring. Usually just enough to clear the mooring field and get the sails up. That may change a bit for this boat as I'll have to get used the bigger boat and plan on doing a bit of practicing... Anyway, as always, I look forward to any input!  

SloopDogg said: Well, i finally got the yard to take the mast off of the boat. Boy is she ever pretty. The head room does suffer some, but those lines...wow. Click to expand...

So, moving forward, I'm getting some prices on the rigging. It seems the upper shrouds are newer, the roller furler is newer, therefore, the head-stay is newer. Like maybe within 10 years... The rest seems original. The question now is whether we can reuse the turnbuckles. Click to expand...

There is no headliner in the boat and everywhere there is paint, it is peeling. My plan at the moment is to sand and repaint. I'd love some suggestions on that topic. Click to expand...

I also plan on cleaning up the wiring. The wiring isn't bad, it is just not organized. Newer wiring, all run hap-hazard but, in good shape. I plan on trying to add some of that split flexible conduit to help clean things up. Click to expand...

I'm also planning on getting a new carb for the engine as she doesn't want to start without starting fluid. I figure I'll buy a new one and rebuild the old one for a spare. The engine, is an atomic 4 and still raw water cooled. I'm a little nervous about that part of it. I guess there really is no way to tell how corroded the cooling ducts are or how much life is left in the old girl. I'd really rather not have to deal with that this year... I'd convert it over to electronic ignition and add the fresh water cooling but, I'm not sure it is worth the added effort for this year. I feel I have enough to do at this point. I also feel if there is a need to repower in the not to distant future I could do all that then with a new moyer engine. To be honest i really don't do a lot of motoring. Usually just enough to clear the mooring field and get the sails up. That may change a bit for this boat as I'll have to get used the bigger boat and plan on doing a bit of practicing... Anyway, as always, I look forward to any input! Click to expand...

Oh and another thing I need advice on is a boarding ladder. I can't believe it but the boat currently doesn't have one. I feel it a necessity to have really good boarding ladder and I love some recommendations.  

Okay, It turns out I'll need new sails for my boat. The sails are all from the early 70s. It turns out there is a very light 150% Genny in "okay" shape but needs some help. could cost me $400 and it is still old but seems like it hasn't seen a lot of use. The main is shot, no hope. Thurston is going to quote me a new main and a new #2 135% head sail. There is also a #3 Jib and a 2nd, heavier #1 about 140% to 150% that has had mice living in the bag with it. He is also going to have another look to see if I can get another season out of one of the head sails. I'd love some advice or suggestions. I imagine it is better to buy a new sail than to dump $300 into a sail for one year. Maybe not...I could look for used I guess. I got sails for my O'Day 22 from porpoise sails for a real cheap price. He sold me a new main and used Genny for like $550 I'll try him again. But seeing as I'll have to do this, is there anything I should be thinking about as an upgrade to make my life sailing easier. The boat has a relatively new roller furler and Lazy jacks. I have no main sail cover.  

SloopDogg said: Okay, It turns out I'll need new sails for my boat. The sails are all from the early 70s. It turns out there is a very light 150% Genny in "okay" shape but needs some help. could cost me $400 and it is still old but seems like it hasn't seen a lot of use. The main is shot, no hope. Thurston is going to quote me a new main and a new #2 135% head sail. There is also a #3 Jib and a 2nd, heavier #1 about 140% to 150% that has had mice living in the bag with it. He is also going to have another look to see if I can get another season out of one of the head sails. I'd love some advice or suggestions. I imagine it is better to buy a new sail than to dump $300 into a sail for one year. Maybe not...I could look for used I guess. I got sails for my O'Day 22 from porpoise sails for a real cheap price. He sold me a new main and used Genny for like $550 I'll try him again. But seeing as I'll have to do this, is there anything I should be thinking about as an upgrade to make my life sailing easier. The boat has a relatively new roller furler and Lazy jacks. I have no main sail cover. Click to expand...

Okay, so the saga continues. Today's question; She has a smile.... there is also an abrasion at the bottom of the keel. It think it may have been grounded. I think it mat have even happen while on the hard...the abrasion on the bottom has not been painted over and the rest of the bottom paint is in good shape with the exception of that smile. I'm told the boat was on the hard at the PO's son-in-law's yard. them moved to its current location and probably moved around there a bit in the years it has been stored. Anyway, I'm going to have this stuff repaired but I'm wondering if I should drop the keel and inspect the bolts. I know it is probably not an easy job but, probably not all that difficult either. It is just that the entire joint seems to need ground out and while the joint is already open, would it make sense to inspect the bolts? It just seems to me you could put a floor jack under it loosen the bolts enough to peer in with a light and see if there is anything horrible going on in there. What do you guys think. The surveyor suggested simply fixing the joint. Its just the more I think about it, an inspection shouldn't be too much extra work. Am I off base here? Danny  

While an inspection would be well advised I suspect the keel may not obligingly 'drop' as easy as that, depending on what was used as a bedding compound previously. OTOH you might get lucky. Be careful about where the jack stands are installed, you'll be taking the entire weight of the boat on them for at least part of the time. The extreme slope of the V33 keel will make 'blocking it with a floor jack' somewhat more problematic than a Peterson type fin.. that may complicate things a bit since you want the keel to come straight down, not rotate down. As I'm sure you've gathered the 'smile' is not unusual. If you decide to simply clean out the seams and reseal I understand West's G-flex epoxy has had good results in this area. (used it myself last spring, will check next haul) Good luck!  

IIRC, those Vikings had their keels epoxied on. I vaguely recall a story (Pacific Yachting?) about one of them going on the rocks in Porlier back in the day and the bent keel had to be sawn off. Probably best to ensure the nuts are tight and then fill the smile.  

Okay, so all this sitting around waiting for my shoulder to heal has me now looking for an auto pilot. I considered a wind vane system but, I'm going to put that off for now. Mostly due to cost but, I don't think I'll need something like that quite yet. I've still got some coastal cruising to do before heading out to open sea!! LOL Any, would love some advice. I'm looking at the: Raymarine SmartPilot X-5 Wheel Autopilot $1139 + shipping For yachts displacing up to 16,500lbs (7,500kg) Includes ST6002 Control Head, MkII wheel-drive Built-in Gyro Sensor with Advanced Steering Technology And the OCTOPUS Type RS Sailboat Drive Has caught my eye. I would need a control head as well so the cost would be about $1150 + the control head. I think this would be a tougher install as well as it is below deck. Anyone have any opinions?  

Okay, so A quick update....I ran into some pretty awful issues with the atomic 4. The PO let the raw water pump leak all over the back of the engine and engine compartment. It turned the back of the engine into an unrecognizable blob of rust. After wire brushing and cleaning all the bolts, about 8 of them, in that area look more like rivets. I had no way of removing the existing pump without lots and lots of hours trying to mess with and old rusted out engine. Who knows what else It would have revealed if ever did get the bolts out.... Anyway, I ordered an exchange engine from Moyer. It is, supposed to be, going into the boat yesterday. But when I called they needed to "check on it." We all know what that means! Anyway, I'm finally at a point where i'll be putting things back together!!! Adding the fresh water cooling, and new raw water strainers, wiring up the new whale gusher pumps, I'm using as bilge pumps, and getting some paint on all the areas I had to sand (the whole inside of the boat) the crap out of... I'm thinking a launch in about 3 more weeks... Painful, but not horrible and I'll have all new everything important. Sails, Standing rigging, motor, bilge pumps. Anyone have any advice for batteries? the battle rages on!  

SloopDogg said: Okay, so A quick update....I ran into some pretty awful issues with the atomic 4. The PO let the raw water pump leak all over the back of the engine and engine compartment. It turned the back of the engine into an unrecognizable blob of rust. After wire brushing and cleaning all the bolts, about 8 of them, in that area look more like rivets. I had no way of removing the existing pump without lots and lots of hours trying to mess with and old rusted out engine. Who knows what else It would have revealed if ever did get the bolts out.... Anyway, I ordered an exchange engine from Moyer. It is, supposed to be, going into the boat yesterday. But when I called they needed to "check on it." We all know what that means! the battle rages on! Click to expand...

Hi Steve, Well, I'm not launched yet...I've got the motor in and have added the Indigo thermostat kit, fresh water cooling kit and the PCV valve kit. Man did I use up a lot of hose clamps! I've still got to wire it up. I have reset all the deck hardware around the bow. It was wet up there in the core so I removed all the hardware and let it sit for a over 3 months covered by a tarp. Then, I did the whole, ream out the core around the penetrations and epoxy plug and re-drill it all. I actually just re-set all the hardware yesterday. The bow sprit stanchion bases, pad eye, cleat and bollard. It was nice to have that done! I also re-set all the hardware along the transome, Stern rail stanchion bases, 2-new vents, flag pole holder and back stay escutcheon. Like you say, I plan to tackle the rest a little more slowly. I did return to the boat on Saturday after a pretty stormy week with lots of rain and she was bone dry inside. I was happy to see that! I also installed two new bilge pumps. I placed the pumps high and dry in the port cabinet and ran hoses to the sump outside the head and one a couple feet in front of the engine. I used a couple of whale gulpers for the task and put a float switch in the sump. The aft one I'll use a manual switch when needed. I did get the whole interior sanded and ready for paint but, have yet to actually paint it. I did get a "nice job" from the admiral on it yesterday! I'm having the yard wash and wax the topsides and paint the bottom this week. I also had them fair the keel joint. As far as the sails, they are ready and waiting for me to launch! I went with Thurston Sails and they treated me well I feel, and the 15% boat show discount had them beating all the local competition's prices. I replaced all the standing rigging but, the rigger said the halyards were all fine. I'll re-use them this year and replace over the winter. I also replaced the mast head light and steaming/deck light. I still have a bit of buttoning up there but, should be able to knock that out pretty quickly. Wiring?? Man, I must have pulled a mile of dead wire out of her. Just cut and left lying at both ends. That alone made a HUGE difference in trying sort the spaghetti out! So, Hopefully, next week we'll be floating at least! Thanks for checking in!!!! I'd love to see some pics of your boat. I'm in regular communication with another guy with a red Viking 33 named Ketchup. He's been a wealth of info, insights, and advice! I think my Lolita is so much the better off for my conversations with him. Here is a link to a pic my engine compartment taken Saturday; http://sdrv.ms/P22Z5s There are a bunch of other shots in there too but they're all just bunched in there. They are chronologically ordered from the day we first looked at it through the whole process. I figure it is always fun the look at pics of old sailboats during their restoration. I'm going to put a slideshow together of that engine compartment! All the best! Danny  

Here's a pic from our town's website. I'll post a couple of better ones shortly. Bay Roberts Marina | Flickr - Photo Sharing!  

yours must be a 1974? you have 2 lower shrouds on each side... I only have one on mine. She looks beautiful! Nice, shiny, red hull  

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• September 24, 2009

Atlanta 28 - a safe introduction to cruising

Product Overview

Manufacturer:, price as reviewed:.

Atlanta Marine made a good living in the late 70s and early 80s revitalising the cast-offs of other companies, particularly Macwester. The Atlanta 28 (aka the Macwester 28) is typical of their range, which stretched from a sporty 22-footer to 32ft. Hull mouldings favoured bulk over sophistication and the interiors were similarly robust if uninspired. The 28 was, though, spacious for the age and had a practical five-berth family layout in two cabins. There was a quarterberth, decent galley and chart table, and enclosed heads. Headroom was reasonable. She sailed quite well, having a taller rig than the Macwester, but she was no racing boat. Atlanta also produced a number of kits and some of these are best avoided. Well-maintained factory models make safe introductions to cruising.

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• Sailboat Reviews

Remarkably roomy for such a small boat, the 25 is well finishedand offers enough performance for racing.

Just a few years ago, the prospective buyer of a 25′ sailboat knew that some serious compromises awaited him. His 25-footer would probably have little more than sitting headroom, might have four shelves that could reasonably be called berths, and probably had a head stowed under the forward berth. The galley? With luck, a two-burner alcohol stove, maybe a sink, and a water tank holding ten gallons.

Auxiliary power? Usually a 6 hp outboard hanging off the stern or in a well in the lazarette.

With today’s economy, more and more people who once might have considered a 30-footer are downscaling their size expectations to something more realistic, perhaps a 25- or 27-footer. While they may downgrade their expectations in terms of the length of their boats, they have not downgraded their expectations in terms of the size boat they want. This is not the contradiction it may seem. The fact is that there are a number of boats less than 27′ in overall length that offer room and features akin to those offered in older 30′ boats.

For better or worse, economic reality has forced many of us to downsize our boat expectations in much the way we downsized our automobile expectations.

Then came a new generation of small cruising auxiliaries. The modern 25′ “family” sailboat has 6′ headroom, berths for a family of five—if privacy isn’t a high priority—enclosed head, and perhaps an inboard diesel engine. A regular miniature yacht.

The Ericson 25+ is a good example. The proof of the popularity of this concept shows in the numbers. Over 660 units were built in the first three years after the Ericson 25+ was introduced in late 1978.

Designer Bruce King had a long and successful relationship with Ericson Yachts, starting with the Ericson 23, 30, 32, and 41 of the late 1960s. He has not been exclusively an Ericson “house” designer—witness the magnificent Herreshoff-inspired 90′ ketch Whitehawk to his design—but the vast majority of Ericson boats came from his board.

Bruce King and Ericson found a formula not unlike that of Bill Shaw and Pearson: build a wide range of boats of similar type in two to three foot increments, develop customer loyalty, and watch the customers move up through the ranks. Keep the really popular models, such as the Pearson 35 or the Ericson 35, and bring out other models every few years to catch the latest trend. That formula worked whether you were on the East Coast or the West, and like Pearson, Ericson had the formula down pat.

With the exception of a few forays into the cruising market with the clipper-bowed Cruising 31 and the Cruising 38 (later to be called Independence), the Ericson formula produced a well finished cruiserracer with good sailing characteristics. The Ericson 25+ was part of this successful formula.

Construction

The hull of the Ericson 25+ is a solid hand layup. A molded fiberglass body pan is glassed to the inside of the hull, functioning as the base for much of the interior furniture and adding a certain amount of rigidity to the hull. The deck, cockpit, and cabin trunk molding is balsa cored, with plywood replacing the balsa in high stress areas such as under the deck-stepped mast and where deck hardware is mounted.

Exterior glasswork is of good quality, with little roving printthrough, Gelcoat work is good.

The hull-to-deck joint depends on a secondary chemical bond. Both the hull and deck have an external molded flange. Glass-reinforced polyester resin is used as a bedding compound between these flanges. The inside of this joint is then lapped with four layers of fiberglass mat and cloth. This joint is covered on the outside by a plastic extrusion with a soft plastic insert which functions as a rub rail. We prefer a mechanically fastened hull-to-deck joint, because the strength of secondary chemical bonds is very difficult to evaluate.

The deck of the 25+ has a remarkably solid feel thanks to its cored construction. Neither the deck, cockpit, nor cabin top had any of the sponginess frequently associated with small boats.

Deck hardware of the 25+ is well mounted. Stanchions, pulpits, cleats, and winches have adequate aluminum bearing plates. The tiller head is a substantial chrome-plated bronze casting, The transom is plywood cored, greatly adding to its rigidity.

The mast of the 25+ is a black, deck-stepped extrusion. The stainless steel mast step looks surprisingly fragile. Because the mast is designed to be owner-stepped if desired, the forward lower half of the base of the mast is cut away to allow the mast to pivot forward for lowering. We doubt if there are many owners who will step their own masts. The design of the mast step to facilitate raising and lowering has greatly reduced the bearing surface of the heel of the mast.

In contrast to the mast step, the shroud chainplates are of surprisingly heavy construction. The 25+ utilizes Navtec chainplates, shroud terminals, and turnbuckles. Chainplates are strongly tied to the hull.

All through hull fittings below the waterline have Zytel valves, a reinforced plastic. Most have double-clamped hoses, but the icebox drain hose has a single clamp. Although modern plastics are strong, we suggest that you carefully inventory through hull fittings, as they are a major culprit in many sinkings of otherwise undamaged boats. Plastic valves may be immune to electrolysis, but they cannot be forgotten any more than bronze seacocks can be ignored.

Handling Under Sail

Despite the chubbiness of the 25+, owners report that she is a fast boat under sail. There are a number of features that contribute to this speed, She has minimum wetted surface, despite a displacement that is average for her overall length, though fairly light for a waterline length of almost 22′.

The Ericson 25+, 28+, and 30+ all feature Bruce King’s trademark, the “delta” fin keel. King states that this keel form has very low induced drag, and the 25’s performance reinforces his belief. The optional shoal draft keel reduces draft a foot, reduces lateral plane, and no doubt reduces windward ability, Unless you are bound and determined to have a boat drawing under four feet, by all means get the deeper draft version.

The rig of the 25+ is a high aspect ratio 7/8 sloop rig. The mainsail hoist of 31.5′ is unusual for a 25′ boat. In light air, tall rigs are usually faster, and we would expect the boat’s best point of sail to be upwind in light air. Since a great deal of the sailing in the world seems to be upwind in light air, this approach to the rig is a rational one.

With the addition of a backstay adjuster—easy because of the split backstay—it is possible to induce a reasonable amount of mast bend to control sail shape. A full width mainsheet traveler mounted on the cockpit bridgedeck greatly enhances mainsail control.

Shroud chainplates are set well inboard, allowing narrow headsail sheeting angles. The genoa track is also located inboard, almost against the cabin side.

There is no main boom topping lift, We think this is pretty indefensible on a cruising boat, and despite the additional windage, a topping lift is greatly to be desired on a racing boat. Without a topping lift, reefing becomes a real exercise in agility. Dropping the mainsail is greatly complicated, especially when cruising shorthanded. Should the main halyard break when sailing close hauled, the main boom could brain anyone sitting on the leeward side of the cockpit.

Two-speed Barient headsail sheet winches were standard in later boats. There is room on the cockpit coamings both for the addition of secondary winches for spinnaker handling and the replacement of the standard winches with larger ones. A single halyard winch is mounted on the mast, There is no main halyard winch. We would choose the optional aftleading halyards to facilitate shorthanded cruising.

The 25+ should sail with almost any other production cruiser-racer of her size. Her wide beam and deep draft should offset the additional heeling moment of the tall rig. Like all wide modern boats she should be sailed on her feet. Get the crew weight out on the weather rail in a breeze, and she should carry sail well.

Handling Under Power

There were probably more power options for the 25+ than any similar-sized boat on the market. They included: outboard power, OMC gas saildrive, Volvo diesel saildrive, and Yanmar diesel inboard.

The 25+ is small enough to be driven fairly well by a 10-hp outboard. There was about a $3,500 difference in equipping the boat with an outboard engine versus the diesel inboard. The choice depended largely on how the boat was to be used. Few boats of this size are used for long-distance cruising. For daysailing and racing, an outboard engine is more than adequate.

If extended coastal cruising is to be the boat’s primary activity, then one of the inboard options should be considered. Frankly, we have little love for saildrive installations. If you really want an inboard engine, the Yanmar single cylinder inboard diesel is the real choice. No matter which engine is in the boat, it is equipped with a 20-gallon aluminum fuel tank.

With a one-cylinder diesel engine, given a fourknot cruising speed and fuel consumption of about 1/4 gallon per hour, the range under power is almost 350 miles—a truly astounding range for a 25′ boat, That’s probably more range under power than the average boat is likely to need for an entire season.

Deck Layout

With shroud chainplates set well inboard, and a reasonably narrow cabin trunk, working on the deck of the 25+ is fairly easy. There is adequate room between the shrouds and the lifelines to walk outboard of the shrouds with ease.

There is a small foredeck anchor well, adequate for the stowage of a single Danforth and rode. There are no bow chocks, but there are two cleats located forward at the outboard edge of the deck.

Molded-in nonskid of a color contrasting to the primary deck color was standard on the Ericson. This relieves eyestrain in bright sunlight and reduces the basically austere external appearance of the boat.

The cockpit of the 25+ is comfortable. Coamings are angled outward rather than being vertical, allowing a more natural sitting posture. As in most tiller-steered boats, the sweep of the tiller occupies a large percentage of the cockpit volume. In port, the tiller swings up and out of the way, providing un-crowded seating for up to six adults.

A single cockpit scupper 1—1/ 2″ in diameter is recessed in a well at the back of the cockpit. The well allows water to drain on either tack. A stainless steel strainer over the scupper reduces its effective area by over 50%. Since the drain size is large enough to pass on through almost any debris that is likely to be found in the cockpit, we would remove the strainer for sailing. A single 1-1/2″ diameter scupper has more cross sectional area than two 1″ drains, and is less likely to clog.

There are two cockpit lockers. The starboard cockpit locker is a shallow pan suitable for storing small items such as winch handles and sail ties. At its after corner is a deeper bin which could make a handy icebox for cold drinks. The port locker is a large, deep affair which unfortunately suffers from the common failing of not being adequately separated from the under-cockpit area, A snap-in Dacron bag would convert this locker to reasonable sail stowage.

The companionway uses thick, well-made solid teak dropboards with proper step joints to prevent spray from working below, Unfortunately, the very strong taper to the companionway slides allows them to be removed by lifting less than an inch. For sailing in rough water, a positive means of securing these slides—a sliding bolt, for example—must be installed.

It is gratifying to see a real bridgedeck in a boat this size. Except for the strong taper to the companionway sides, this is one of the best designed cockpits we have seen in a small boat.

The amount of interior volume in the 25+ is truly remarkable. The boat easily has the headroom and elbow room of most older 30-footers.

The forepeak contains the usual V-berth with a filler to form a nominal double. We truly mean nominal. Two normal-sized people simply do not fit in the forward berth of the Ericson 25+. Consider it a large single instead, or a double for two children. Water and holding tanks occupy the space under the berth.

The 25+ has a genuine enclosed, standup head, an almost unheard of luxury in a boat this size. The head has an opening port for ventilation. There are two small lockers in the head, but both are largely occupied by plumbing hoses.

Opposite the head is a small hanging locker. This locker is fully lined with teak plywood, a nice finishing touch.

It is in the main cabin that the 25+ really shines. Headroom is an honest 6′. Two comfortable settee berths seat 6 in comfort, A fold-down drop-leaf table is big enough to serve 4, and is one of the sturdier tables of this type that we have seen.

The main cabin of the 25+ is well finished with a combination of off-white fiberglass and teak. This is a very successful decorating job, without so much teak as to turn the interior into a cave but with enough to give a well finished appearance. A ceiling of teak strips became standard later on in the production run, and the cabin trunk sides are veneered in teak. A teak and holly cabin sole came standard, with two access hatches to the bilge.

There is a real bilge, unusual in a boat of this size. The strainer for the cockpit-mounted Whale Gusher pump is accessible through a cabin sole hatch.

Under the settee on each side of the cabin there are storage bins. These make use of molded polyethylene drop-in liners, a most practical solution which recognizes the reality that under-seat storage is rarely, if ever, completely dry. An optional extension to the starboard settee converts it to a double berth, but at the expense of easy access to the storage bins underneath.

The galley is surprisingly complete for a 25′ boat. There is a well-insulated icebox of five cubic foot capacity. The insulation is exposed in the port cockpit locker, and will be vulnerable to damage from items stowed there. It could easily be sealed off with either plywood or fiberglass to protect it. The icebox lid is an uninsulated molding advertised as a removable serving tray. If it is used as a serving tray, then the icebox is uncovered, allowing the ice to melt. Whoever thought up that bright idea should go back to the drawing board or look around for some common sense.

For some reason, icebox lids are one of the poorest design features of most sailboats, It’s quite remarkable on boats with otherwise thoughtful design and construction to see poor icebox design. Perhaps there is collusion between the Union of Icebox Designers and the Association of Manufacturers of Ice to maximize the consumption of ice aboard sailboats.

There are storage lockers both above and below the icebox-stove counter. The stove is a recessed Kenyon two-burner alcohol unit with a cutting block cover, These stoves have the fuel fill located between the two burners, and we feel they are a poor choice for use aboard a boat. The burners must be absolutely cool before the fuel tank is filled to eliminate the possibility of explosion or fire.

It is not necessary to step on the galley counter when coming down the companionway. This is a real plus. Footprints on the counters have never appealed to us.

A human-sized quarterberth is a welcome feature. With adequate headroom over, it eliminates the coffinlike aura of so many small-boat quarterberths, and is without a doubt the roomiest, most comfortable berth on the boat.

With an outboard engine, the room under the cockpit that would normally house an inboard is given over to storage. The tiny one-cylinder Yanmar diesel would easily shoehorn into the same space.

Without a doubt, the interior of the Ericson 25+ is a real accomplishment, It is well finished, generally well designed, and remarkably roomy for a boat of this overall length. There is some miniaturization of components, such as the galley sink, head sink, and hanging locker. Nonetheless, she’s a big little boat, and would be truly comfortable for extended coastal cruising for a couple. That is something that can rarely be said for a 25′ boat.

Conclusions

Ericson came very close to achieving their goals in the 25+. She is about as much boat as can be crammed into this overall length.

An interesting option is an E-Z Loader trailer. With a beam of over 9′ and a weight of 5,000 pounds, the 25+ is no trailer sailer. It takes a large, powerful car or truck to tow a boat of this size, and the beam could present legal problems in some states. The trailer would be most useful for taking the boat home for winter storage, rather than frequent over-the-road transport.

Workmanship and finish detail are generally of good stock boat quality. Exposed joiner work is good. Fillet bonding varies from good to only fair, with glasswork generally good.

The Ericson 25+ is a good small cruiser for a young family, and offers enough sailing performance to be a reasonable choice for club racing.

Unlike many small cruiser-racers which concentrate on interior volume and forsake sailing ability, the 25+ really will sail. This means that the new sailor will not quickly outgrow her as he or she learns what makes a boat go fast. With good hardware such as Barient and Navtec and a fairly high degree of finish detail, it is easy to see why the boat fetches the prices it does.

For those used to less-expensive 25-footers, the cost will be a shock. It helps a little to think of her as a 28-footer with the stern cut off.

With an inboard diesel, a good light air rig, and lots of interior volume, she’s a good little cruising boat for a couple. A maximum boat for minimum length, she’s a modern solution to skyrocketing costs of sailing. At maximum price for her length when new, she’s not an example of “more for less,” but then, there’s no free lunch in the sailboat market. That’s for sure.

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Viking Yachts 64 Review

• By Peter Frederiksen
• January 7, 2022

Seventy 62-foot convertibles have been delivered by Viking—six of them were used as part of the company’s demo program on the national and international stage. The popular model was highly regarded for both speed and performance. They were well-equipped and raised fish, but replacing a winner is never easy. In the past two decades, Viking has designed and delivered 550 boats from 60 to 70 feet, and there is no doubt it owns this segment of the production boating market. The new 64 is true to form, and it refuses to live in any other’s shadow.

Watch: The Marlin team explores the fishery of the Andaman Sea off Myanmar in this episode of Bluewater Chronicles .

Viking’s mantra is to build a better boat every day —a philosophy fostered by co-founders Bill and Bob Healey. These days, the second and third generation of Healeys are taking the reins, and the commitment remains as steadfast and relentless as ever as the company’s shipwrights navigate into their 58th year of building state-of-the-art tournament contenders.

The cockpit is ground zero for tournament fishing. With 180 square feet of usable space, every inch has purpose. A pressurized 90-gallon transom livewell keeps bait ready for action, and the mezzanine conceals a freezer, chiller box, and tackle and gear storage. A portside step can be outfitted to stockpile ice or utilize an electric grill. The flybridge overhang delivers spray and sun protection, and air conditioning provides a cool breeze on those breathless tropical days. Centerline finds a watertight lazarette, with an optional power actuator to access the Seakeeper 26 gyrostabilizer. Corner scuppers drain water quickly, and can also be plumbed if you choose to fish with removable livewells. Fixtures for raw and fresh water as well as quick-disconnect fittings for oil changes and filling the water tank are located beneath the coaming boards, along with both 12- and 24-volt outlets and portside and starboard-side storage lockers.

Engine Room

The Snow White Awlgrip-finished engine room is a uniform work of art. Entered through the mezzanine, headroom on the centerline is more than 6 feet, with a solid 26½ inches between the irons. A pair of 21.5 kW Onan gensets are situated aft of the engines for those who prefer redundancy, and the twin setup is flawless.

The aft bulkhead is lined with DC and Octoplex distribution panels, Mastervolt battery chargers and Dometic refrigeration. The oil-transfer system for the engines, transmissions, generators, bilge pumps and various seacocks are labeled in typical Viking fashion, and all hoses and wire-runs throughout the machinery space are chafe-protected, neat and secure. Forward finds a toolbox, AC units, and the Furuno Omni sonar tube. Movement outboard is virtually effortless, and the equipment is lined up in military precision. To port is the main switch for the Side-Power DC bow thruster controls and the ElectroSea Clearline growth-prevention system; to starboard, the Dometic-Spot Zero watermaker combo, Willy Vac and Headhunter freshwater pump are easily accessible. A Delta-T ventilation and ­water-suppression system supplies the engine room with clean, ambient airflow.

The sheer volume of the 64’s wide beam invites an uncluttered view forward—accented with satin-finished horizontal grain walnut that adds dimension throughout the interior. An electrical panel at eye level provides convenient access to the ship’s systems, and an adjacent 50-inch high-definition television rises from the cabinetry opposite the L-shaped sofa that hides significant storage inside.

A dinette is situated to port, and the raised base conceals another one of the yacht’s storage areas. The peninsula-style galley and bar feature engineered-stone counters and a pair of stools. Top-notch appliances, ample storage and premium vinyl Amtico flooring are among the standard highlights; an island galley option is available for those who prefer it.

Below, the four-stateroom, three-head layout provides the same striking walnut joinery, comfort and privacy, including a walk-around bed in the master, a choice of forward stateroom accommodations, and even more storage. A companionway laundry center adds to the 64’s numerous amenities.

Viking’s popular center-console helm station ramps up style and practicalities with a newly designed black acrylic helm dash featuring three flush-mounted Seatronx touchscreen displays. The angle of the dash brings the screens closer to the ­skipper to shorten the reach, and the entire console has been raised for better access to the radio boxes that flank the teak helm pod. Two boxes in the fiberglass hardtop house additional electronics and displays, as well as a set of teaser reels. The controller for the Omni sonar stows beneath the helm and includes a remote for the operator.

Three Release Marine Trillion helm chairs provide comfort for those long offshore jaunts, with convenient fore and aft drink boxes. Port and starboard benches provide storage, while the forward lounge sits on top of a 76-gallon freezer—another nod to the boat’s long-range travel capability.

Read Next: Meet Viking president and CEO Pat Healey in our exclusive interview .

Performance and Construction

Off the coast of Palm Beach, Florida, with Capt. Ryan Higgins—Viking’s Southeast sales manager and 15-year demo veteran—at the wheel, the 64-footer ripped into a two-way average top speed of 42 knots burning 200 gph with a near-full load of fuel. In a 2- to 3-foot sea and 10- to 12-knot northeast breeze, the boat was smooth and chatter-free; the wake was crisp and well-defined. Viking’s design manager, David Wilson, explains some of the details of this new hull’s running surface: “The refinements include the chine angle of attack and a softer radius transitioning from the deadrise to the chine. We also slightly lowered the strakes in the bow for increased spray-deflection. Moving aft, the chines widen, and together with the strakes, they provide excellent lift. We also changed the shaft angle and the propeller-pocket diameter, length and entry for better water flow to the props, and to minimize draft.”

As I took the helm, the tie-bar-free SeaStar Optimus steering connected me instinctively to every maneuver I made. Slipping along at 1,800 rpm, we were making 29 knots using 122 gallons of fuel for a range of 403 nautical miles, while a brisk 35 knots at 2,100 rpm burned 156 gph for a range of 385 nm.

The new Viking 64 utilizes the builder’s proprietary manufacturing processes, including a vinylester resin-infused fiberglass hull with composite coring ­material throughout, structural composite bulkheads and integrated, resin-infused tankage. Vertically unified from design to delivery, 90 percent of what goes into building a Viking 64 is manufactured at its facility in New Gretna, New Jersey, and the company subsidiaries—Atlantic Marine Electronics and Palm Beach Towers—help produce a turnkey product for a seamless build experience.

As Viking continues its head-down, nose-to-the-grindstone approach to the ever-evolving boating market, we are sure to see replacement models take hold. After all, as Abraham Lincoln once said: “The most reliable way to predict the future is to create it.”

Viking Yachts 64 Specs

• Beam: 18’11”
• Draft: 5’7″
• Displ: 99,738 lb.
• Fuel: 1,850 gal. (std.), 2,201
• Water: 302 gal.
• Power: Twin MTU 12V 2000 M96X, 2,002 mhp
• Gear/Ratio: ZF 3050A, 2.259:1
• Propellers: Veem, 5-blade
• Climate Control: Dometic

This article originally appeared in the February 2022 print issue of Marlin.

• More: Boat Reviews , Boats , February 2022 , Viking Yacht Company

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