bayfield 29 sailboat review

Bow and Stern

Adventures in a bayfield 29.

Bayfield 29 — An early review

I’ve had a few weeks with the new boat (Bayfield 29, la Princesa …until I change the name in a few weeks), and I’m getting a good feel for her.

Firstly, I don’t have any buyers remorse. At least not yet. I’m rather pleased with the design in general.

Under sail:

She sails remarkably well in light air. Not race boat fast; but certainly a lot better than I expected from a full keel, rather full body cutter. Under the asymmetrical spinnaker she would do three knots in around six knots indicated wind (masthead anemometer), and if I was willing to settle for two knots of speed (and I often am), I could probably keep her moving at that pace on most points of sail under working canvas in any but the lightest wind (perhaps I’m overstating the case; but given my experience so far I don’t think by much).

She is perfectly happy in heavyish weather provided she gets a reef in the main by around 20 knots wind or so. I’ve had her in the high twenties pushing thirty (apparent, indicated) under one reef and both head-sails (I’m not sure if they are the original sizes or not) and there was a fair amount of weather helm; but it wasn’t unmanageable or uncomfortable, although a second reef probably wouldn’t have been a bad idea. I haven’t explored the full range of capability yet (I JUST bought the boat); but I’m willing to bet that with the second (fairly deep) reef, 40 knots of wind will be somewhat anti-climatic (although the wave action that goes along with 40 knots might not be pleasant…I’m not rushing to find out). I find her quite stiff (a benefit of that rotund body, I suspect), dry, and comfortable throughout the twenties with probably three to four foot Chesapeake waves.

Under Power:

No trouble handling under power in forward. She will turn within her own length to port (edit: I THINK to port…My recollection is suddenly challenging that direction). In reverse I now understand all the full keel complaints. I’m sure I’ll figure it out eventually; but I haven’t yet. I back into my slip; but I am using warping lines more than engine power at the moment. It’s a bit more work; but even single handed in a cross breeze I know I can get the boat in that way. I have watched some maestros under power, though, and I know it can be done with some more experience.

Cockpit and Deck:

The cockpit is deeper than I would like. It feels quite secure; but I need a huge cushion to sit high enough for good visibility (and I’m not a tiny man!). The seat coamings are practically vertical, the seat bottoms are too narrow, and the foot well area is so wide it is difficult to brace against the opposite seat. Happily, with the cushion I’m high enough I can see, and the boat is stiff enough that bracing isn’t as big a deal as it could be. But if each of the seats was a few inches wider, and the foot well was 6-8 inches narrower, and the back rest was angled a bit, the cockpit would be much more comfortable. Also I find it a little tricky to have one person at the tiller while another is tending the sheets as they both want to occupy the same space. This can be worked around, and with experimentation I am figuring it out; but some more thought here wouldn’t have been out of place. The cockpit also seems designed to hold a tremendous amount of water, with only two average size (1.5″ maybe? Less?) drains to let it all out. Hopefully if I’m ever out in conditions likely to flood the cockpit the cabin hatches are in, and the engine room hatch gasketing is more robust than it looks. Before serious contemplation of an offshore trip I’d have to think long and hard about putting in more cockpit drainage. As deep as the cockpit is, boat handling would be a challenge with more than a couple people in it.

While we are in the cockpit, I’d also like to say that I am not a big fan of having halyards run aft. Running the two head-sail halyards aft is pointless because I have roller furling (which is pretty nice, by the way). And the mains’l halyard is almost as pointless as the main seems to often get hung up on the lazyjacks going both up and down, which requires going to the mast to guide things along. While this is probably correctable either through a reconfiguration of the lazyjacks, or a change in technique on my part, what is not easily correctable is the reefing lines which are at the base of the boom. There is little point in trying to rig them to the cockpit as it is still necessary to be at the mast to get the reefing hook into the tack (although I suppose I could try and rig single line reefing…I’ll think about it). The outhaul and topping lift are also controlled at the mast. What the heck, they might as well have left the main halyard there too! I’ll think about it for the next year or so, I guess, and see if it bugs me enough to make changes. This is one of those things where the current setup appears ideal for the single hander, but I find it quite the opposite. It’s also a shame the boom wasn’t a few inches higher as this is a headache waiting to happen (a foot higher might permit standing headroom under the dodger and bimini)!

One other gripe, although this seems to also be common across most modern designs, is that one of the shroud chainplates on either side goes through the deck. The inner shrouds are attached to the house sides, and with that near vertical orientation they don’t seem to leak. The outer shrouds, though, poke a hole through the damn deck. Why? This is certainly NOT a racing boat, so a couple extra inches of sheeting angle won’t matter, especially since neither head sail extends aft of the mast. If Bayfield would have just moved the chainplates to the hull side I’m willing to bet that any water leakage, even with old caulking, would be minimal. As it is I’m going to need to caulk them up when I do my winter refit. The standing rigging will need to be replaced at some point, and I may consider moving those chain plates out at that time. I need to do research first, though, as there are likely to be unintended consequences.

The good news is the side decks are reasonably wide, the life lines are high enough to be safe, the foredeck feels secure, and the motion of the boat is quite comfortable.

Moving on to the interior we have what is, in many ways, a brilliant layout. By eliminating the v-berth (which typically in small boats becomes a catch all junk room) we not only get rid of the least comfortable berth aboard, we suddenly have room for a remarkably spacious head for a small boat. It is quite comfortable. Forward of the head is a hanging/storage locker, and further forward a huge anchor locker. There is even a funny little cushioned seat in the head, which I haven’t been able to find a point to; but it looks pretty cool even if I’m unlikely to ever sit on it. With the head further forward, we open up the main cabin. There is a centerline table with fold up leafs. On the starboard side is a berth that pulls out into a double, with a regular settee on the port side. Aft further is a half bulkhead that separates the galley (starboard) and chart table (decently sized to port). Partitions slide up from the half bulkhead to really separate the main cabin from what I’m calling the “working” (galley/navigation) cabin if the need for privacy and separation would arise (for instance, on a passage with sleeping crew). Aft of both the galley and chart table are a pair of quarter berths, port (a little too short) and starboard (plenty long). Four opening portlights plus the hatch in the head allow for decent ventilation. I’m 5’10” tall and I have standing headroom throughout, barely, although I have bumped my head a few times walking through the door to the head. Stowage is quite reasonable (I’m still experimenting on how best to utilize it). Water tankage is fine for a week or so (25 or 30 gallons I’m guessing); but could probably stand to be increased for any extended trips, especially considering the waste associated with a pressure water system (there is currently no system implemented for non-pressure water, although this is on my to-do list). The interior is teak, which some people like (me, for one), and others find gloomy. Build quality seems generally very decent.

Brilliant or not, I have a couple gripes about the interior as well. Well, I have one BIG gripe. Once again Ted Gozzard (or perhaps Bayfield yachts themselves) had an ergonomic brain fart. The settees, when in “couch” mode (that is, the seat backs are down), are too narrow, and it constantly feels like you are sitting on the edge of your seat. I guess this is OK for eating at the table; but not my cup of tea for just relaxing in the cabin. Raise the seat backs into bunk mode and they are as comfortable as any bunk I’ve personally been on. I have a few thoughts on how to make the settees more comfortable; but it will take a little experimentation. I’m going to try to avoid major surgery, or having to make new cushions ($$$); but I might not get away with that. Given that this boat will eventually be my home, though, the situation needs to be worked on a bit, and it deserves to have a few dollars thrown at it.

Ice melts fast in the ice-box. I think I’ll probably turn it into dry storage and pick up an Engle or something (I’ll snug it down into the starboard quarter berth or something, I guess).

Mechanicals:

The engine is a Yanmar 2GM, is about thirteen horsepower (although I can not get it up to max continuous RPM of 3400, meaning I’m not getting all the ponies), and seems to push the boat along just fine. When the wind and seas are calm I am just about getting to hull speed at maybe 2800 RPM (indicated). When the wind and waves are well up, I’ve been held back to as little as four knots over the ground (the knotmeter is not giving realistic numbers, so I’m defaulting to GPS…it should be correct within a quarter to maybe half knot or so, I think) at my max achievable RPM of three thousand. A few extra horsepower when the wind is blowing would not be unwelcome; but I think I’m getting an adequate amount. I think twenty horse power would have been a better choice; but not nearly better enough to consider spending the money to repower. I haven’t figured out fuel consumption, yet; but it is modest. The standard alternator is 35 amps. Given the horsepower, I’m not sure if it is reasonable to go much bigger which might put a practical limit on battery capacity.

Engine access is terrific, both through a hatch in the cockpit (although I wonder what would happen if the cockpit got flooded) and by removing the companionway steps, through the cabin. My only complaint is that the oil dipstick is in an awkward location which discourages checking it daily; but that is part of the discipline. I had a cooling problem a few days ago, so I pulled the water pump off to check the impeller and replace the belts. It was easy. I haven’t done any other maintenance on it yet; but outside of changing the oil (I think the old oil is sucked up through the dipstick port with a pump), most everything looks pretty easy to handle. Since there isn’t an hour meter on the motor and I don’t know when any scheduled preventative maintenance was last done, I’m planning on doing pretty much everything on the scheduled maintenance list to effectively reset the clock to zero before hauling in a few weeks for the winter. I may put in an hour meter at some point to help keep track, too.

I have a pair of Group 24 deep cycle batteries, in two banks. I’d like to at least double my amp capacity. It is not immediately obvious the best way to shoe-horn in more batteries, although I have a couple ideas. A tape measure will be my best friend for awhile. Given the smallish alternator, solar charging will be a good idea.

Boat options:

Air-conditioning! It is probably twenty years old and blows cool, but not cold air. I’m going to see if I can fix this up. As a soon to be live-aboard I believe I will replace this unit if I can’t get it working better (might just need a charge, or perhaps a good cleaning). It does get hot here in the Chesapeake!

Propane on demand hot water heater. It works, and generates scalding hot water. But it seems to take awhile to get going, and the water tanks are small enough that running the faucet while waiting for the hot water to show up seems like a terrible waste of fresh water. Taking a hot shower on a cool morning is pretty damn awesome, though! (Although there are pitfalls to showering aboard). I need to redo the propane lines (it’s a trust issue), so I may decide to get rid of the water heater. It will be kind of odd having a hot water faucet on each of the sinks without any hot water; but such is life. I can use my portable pump up sprayer for showers (it works well) by either solar heating the container or just boiling a pot of water.

Deck wash-down pump. The water around here is muddy. It’s very cool to be able to spray off the chain and deck after raising anchor. Very cool.

Propane stove. I guess the Bayfields came with Origo alcohol stoves; but my 29 has a Kenyon two burner propane job. I’m not a big foodie and I tend to cook simple meals, so this isn’t that big a deal to me. Gas is nice, though. Unfortunately, the stove is not gimballed (and it doesn’t have an oven, although that is of limited interest to me), and there is no easy way to install a permanent gimballed stove without doing major galley surgery and probably sacrificing the starboard quarter berth (which isn’t likely to get used much; but it might be important if it comes time to sell the boat down the road). I have a thought on how to inexpensively build a portable/removable gimballed stove sort of like the old Sea Cook stove, so when the time comes I’m sure I’ll be OK. There is currently a six pound propane tank hanging off the stern pulpit. Before doing any long distance cruising it might make sense to get another.

Conclusion:

While I have a few gripes, I find the boat meets my needs about as well, better really, as could be expected. There are always compromises; but in a sub-thirty foot live-aboard (take away the pulpit, it is probably closer to 27′) I don’t think I could ask for much more. I don’t know if many Bayfield 29s are out doing ocean crossings; but while the design might not be the best choice for a trip around the Horn, I don’t see any reason why she shouldn’t be perfectly capable and comfortable for seasonally appropriate passages providing some modest updating is done; although my experience in the matter is a bit limited.

She makes me smile when I look at her, and even though she looks a little tired at the moment, she gets a lot of compliments. She is thirty years old, and as is reasonably expected, her systems and cosmetics need some attention. Getting old sucks; but I don’t see any reason why “ la Princesa ” (I’m looking forward to the new name) can not be restored to full glory with a modest amount of elbow grease.

Feed from: http://continuousmoon.blogspot.com/

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4 thoughts on “ Bayfield 29 — An early review ”

I will add some photos to the review above in a day or two. They will help describe some of what I’m talking about.

Any futher comments on your Bayfield? I am considering it for single handing. 63 yo woman sailor here.

My review above pretty much stands, although I’m happy to answer any specific questions you have. I’m still early days in ownership, though.

Single handing, btw, is pretty easy. She’s a stable platform. Docking is a challenge, though. I’m hoping with practice it will get easier.

We have finished year 3 with our 1979 B-29. 6 opening ports, extended bowsprit, wheel steering, no cockpit engine hatch, etc. Docking does get easier- ours pulls hard starboard in reverse but we have a different model Yanmar.

Whatcha thinkin'? Cancel reply

BAYFIELD 29 Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of BAYFIELD 29. Built by Bayfield Boat Yard Ltd. (CAN) and designed by Ted Gozzard, the boat was first built in 1978. It has a hull type of Long Keel and LOA is 8.84. Its sail area/displacement ratio 20.33. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by Yanmar, runs on Diesel.

BAYFIELD 29 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about BAYFIELD 29 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, auxillary power tank, accomodations, contributions, who designed the bayfield 29.

BAYFIELD 29 was designed by Ted Gozzard.

Who builds BAYFIELD 29?

BAYFIELD 29 is built by Bayfield Boat Yard Ltd. (CAN).

When was BAYFIELD 29 first built?

BAYFIELD 29 was first built in 1978.

How long is BAYFIELD 29?

BAYFIELD 29 is 6.63 m in length.

What is mast height on BAYFIELD 29?

BAYFIELD 29 has a mast height of 9.3 m.

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• Sailboat Guide

Bayfield 29

Bayfield 29 is a 29 ′ 0 ″ / 8.8 m monohull sailboat designed by Ted Gozzard and built by Bayfield Boat Yard Ltd. between 1980 and 1983.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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Review of Bayfield 29

Basic specs..

The Bayfield 29 is equipped with a long keel. A long keel provide a better directional stability than a similar boat with a fin keel; on the other hand, better directional stability means also that the boat is more difficult to handle in a harbour with less space.

The boat can enter even shallow marinas as the draft is just about 1.07 - 1.17 meter (3.51 - 3.81 ft) dependent on the load. See immersion rate below.

The boat is typically equipped with an inboard Yanmar 2GM diesel engine at 15.0 hp (11 kW), which gives a max speed about 5.0 knots.

The fuel tank has a capacity of 76 liters (20 US gallons, 16 imperial gallons).

Sailing characteristics

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

What is Capsize Screening Formula (CSF)?

The capsize screening value for Bayfield 29 is 2.12, indicating that this boat would not be accepted to participate in ocean races.

What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?

The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 6.2 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.

The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Bayfield 29 is about 137 kg/cm, alternatively 771 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 137 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 771 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

What is Motion Comfort Ratio (MCR)?

What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?

What is a Ballast Ratio?

What is Displacement Length Ratio?

What is SA/D (Sail Area Displacement ratio)?

Maintenance

When buying anti-fouling bottom paint, it's nice to know how much to buy. The surface of the wet bottom is about 14m 2 (150 ft 2 ). Based on this, your favourite maritime shop can tell you the quantity you need.

Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale

If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.

This section shown boat owner's changes, improvements, etc. Here you might find inspiration for your boat.

Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what to look for.

We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for Bayfield 29 it would be a great help.

If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.

Bayfield 29

The bayfield 29 is a 29.0ft cutter designed by ted gozzard and built in fiberglass by bayfield boat yard ltd. (can) between 1978 and 1983., 350 units have been built..

The Bayfield 29 is a heavy sailboat which is a good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a coastal cruiser. The fuel capacity is originally very small. There is a very short water supply range.

Bayfield 29 for sale elsewhere on the web:

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Classic Small Cruisers List

Choosing a small voyaging sailboat

Listed below are 73 monohull fiberglass sailboats up to 32 feet in length that, with minor modifications in some cases, I believe could be suitable for making offshore voyages. The list, though incomplete, is aimed at helping those who have asked me for recommendations on buying a small boat for cruising and potential offshore voyaging.

I consider a small cruising sailboat as one that is up to 32-foot in length. I might further subdivide them as follows: 26-30-foot – pocket cruiser 21-25-foot – mini-cruiser 20-foot and under – micro-cruiser A category not on this list are trailer-sailers that are generally under 5,000 lbs. for easy towing, road legal beam of less than 8′ (or 8’6″ covers most states), hinged mast steps for easy mast raising, and shoal draft under about 3-foot or swing keel for ease of launching. Then there are the “trailerable” boats such as my Pearson Triton 28 that are best launched from a boatyard travel lift because they have more draft than is easily accommodated at a boat launch ramp and may require a crane for mast raising. They usually have more beam and displacement that requires a bigger tow vehicle and extra-wide towing permits. In any case, all the boats on this list fall into the small cruisers category. If you want a boat that you can bring to your home for storage or repairs then the Alberg 30, with its 9,000 lb., displacement, 4’3″ draft and only slightly oversize beam of 8’9″ is close to the largest practical size that you can safely tow with a 3/4 ton pickup such as my F-250.

Aside from a few exceptions, boats on my list meet the following criteria of proven seaworthiness, moderate draft under 5-foot, tiller steering, keels that are not merely bolted on that are either traditional full keel or, more commonly, relatively long three-quarter keels (full keel with cutaway forefoot) with keel attached rudder, room for one, or at the larger end of the size range, two people to live-aboard in reasonable comfort, fiberglass construction for ease of maintenance and availability, and this sailor’s idea of functional and attractive design. Some of the boats listed here I have sailed and know well, others I know from working on them, or by research and reputation.  

The boats on this list range from inexpensive moderate displacement classic coastal cruiser/racer designs like the Pearson Ariel 26 to the heavy, more traditional, more expensive boats like the Westsail 32 designed for comfortable and safe offshore voyaging even in heavy weather. Obviously, the Ariel is not as suitable to a voyage around Cape Horn as the Westsail. That does not disqualify these coastal cruiser designs from voyaging. It does mean it makes sense to take extra efforts to prepare these boats for offshore and make more conservative route planning to sail in safer latitudes and milder seasons. Like any tool, you need to use the right boat for the job.

All boats are compromises of desirable and undesirable features for any given task and the smaller the boat the more obvious the compromises become. For example, though my ideal boat is not a double-ender or canoe transom, because they leave less room for cockpit stowage, outboard motor, solar panels and windvane attachment, I’ve included them here because of their exceptional qualities in other areas, their undeniable beauty, and because most sailors prefer inboard engines that allow them to motor longer distances and in higher wave conditions than the outboard can handle. If you want a diesel or electric inboard engine or plan to sail engineless, then these designs may suit your needs. Another compromise area is standing headroom. Ideally you want to be able to stand up at least in the main salon. If you are above average height, then a small boat is not likely to have the headroom you require. You can either move up in boat size to gain more headroom, choose a small boat with an ungainly tall coach roof, or resign yourself to stoop. On some boats it’s possible to lower the cabin sole a few inches, if needed. At the very least, if your pocket cruiser lacks headroom and is not already set up this way, you may want to retrofit your galley next to the companionway hatch so that you can stand up when preparing food with the hatch slid open.

A big plus for boats like the Pearson Ariel, Triton, Alberg 30, some of the Bristol and Cape Dory line and similar boats on this list is that they are relatively inexpensive and are proven offshore capable. An advantage of an inexpensive boat is it gives you the option of not buying insurance and could even replace it with a small emergency savings fund, which I call being self-insured. Also, their long production runs mean there are always some available on the market. A bonus in my view is if a boat has an overhanging transom and lazarette locker that can be modified for an outboard motor well when the inboard engine has reached the end of its life or, like me, you simply can’t tolerate the wasted space, complexity, and fouling of your bilge with oil and fuel leaks that comes with an inboard engine. Although some boats on this list were offered with an outboard well from the factory, they are generally poorly designed non-tilting wells, which has earned outboard wells a bad reputation and is why I specialize in converting suitable boats to tilt-up outboard wells. When an experienced sailor tells you to stay away from an outboard well it’s almost always because they have not experienced a well-designed version. You can find boats with added wells featured in my  atomvoyager  youtube channel. Despite my own preference as a sailor who makes the effort to sail rather when others find it more convenient to motor, most sailors prefer to have the ample power and ability to motor in more adverse conditions that comes with an inboard diesel over the limitations of an outboard motor. It depends on the sailor more than anything else.

For those that can afford them, the more expensive boats on this list such as Pacific Seacraft and Morris Yachts have some advantages such as higher quality materials and construction and better resale value. 

As for the rig, I’ve sailed sloops, yawls, ketches, schooners and junks, and they all have their attributes. A sloop rig is simple and efficient and the most common, though a cutter or sloop modified to carry a staysail or inner stay to hoist a storm jib, is what I recommend because it adds strength, more versatility in sail options and redundancy to the rig. 

This list mostly contains older boats with rudders hung on moderately full keels, which compared to more modern designs, are generally slower boats because of more wetted surface and drag. A true full keel is traditionally considered one that extends most of the length of the waterline. Anything else, such as a full keel with cutaway forefoot and with the aft end of the keel moved a few feet forward is technically defined as a fin keel. But in common usage today a fin keel refers to a keel that is shorter fore and aft, often bolted on instead of molded into the fiberglass hull, and having a separate rudder. Technically, my Pearson Triton and similar style keels can be defined as “fin” keels, although to differentiate between these and shorter more modern fin keels I refer to them as three-quarter keel (AKA modified full keel, semi-full keel, or full with cutaway forefoot). Short but deep fin keels and unprotected spade rudders and other hull forms that may compromise handling and strength and restrict shallow water navigation are not on this list. Although a deep fin keel and separate spade rudder will give you a speed edge to windward and improved maneuvering in a marina, the spade rudder and exposed propeller will snag on lines and fish nets and if you hit anything underway and damage the rudder, the boat’s steering is too easily disabled. 

Most of the boats built in the past 40 years do not have keel-hung rudders and many of them perform well and have proven to be safe at sea, particularly those with skeg-hung rudders, where the hull adds some strength and protection to the rudder. A full skeg that protects the bottom of the rudder is often a good compromise. Though I didn’t include most of these good boats on my list, it’s mainly because the attributes of the keel-hung rudder are more important to the offshore voyager than an extra half-knot of speed or improved steering in reverse. Voyaging and cruising are about being at sea and at anchor. If you intend to sail in and out of tight marinas on a regular basis instead of crossing oceans and anchoring out, then more modern designs might be your better choice.

An unavoidable issue with the newer boats on this list is that many of them are built with interior fiberglass hull liners to save money on construction. Though this makes production more efficient, it makes it more difficult for the owner to modify or gain access to all areas of the hull. You can always cut away non-structural portions of the liner to gain the access needed but good luck on getting rid of a roach infestation on a linered boat with many inaccessible areas.

Most of the boats on the list have fiberglass decks cored with balsa wood. This can be a problem. It’s long been and still is a fairly standard construction procedure, but it would be better for longevity of the core if they had used better construction techniques to prevent water intrusion into the core or, better yet, used closed cell foam core or even the heavier plywood core or even solid fiberglass layup. The main problem is the deck fittings were often not installed properly through the cored area and over time the water gets into the core around the fasteners and slowly spreads. Minor core damage around fasteners can be repaired easily, but extensive rotten core as evidenced by a dull thud with a mallet or excessive flex and spongy feel when walking on the deck or deck flexing when you pull at the top of a stanchion, is a major repair. You can still sail with moderately rotted deck core since it is seldom bad enough to be an issue of strength. The problem is that a rotted core makes it impossible to seal leaks in the deck fittings and that water will be a major nuisance as it trickles below into lockers and shelves. A surveyor can help you avoid a boat with rotted balsa core or help you negotiate a better price to offset repairs. Cored hulls are rarer – only a few boats on this list, such as the Southern Cross 28 and 31, have cored hulls. Those that do, use a closed cell urethane type core which when properly installed has proved not to be a problem and is actually a plus because it is lighter for the same strength (or stronger for the same weight) and adds insulation.

I realize there are many other capable designs and that other sailors will disagree with my preferences. Let me know if you have a correction or can fill in missing data or if I’ve overlooked a good boat that you feel should be on the list. But don’t feel slighted if your current boat is not listed here. There can never be just one Small Cruisers List and this one doesn’t claim to be any more valid than yours. Good boats that are generally unavailable on the used boat market because they were custom built or had a very short production run are not listed. If you find a boat with the criteria set out above (or your own criteria) and happens to be custom built or a short-run production boat, then it’s also worth consideration.

If you’re looking for a boat of the type outlined above, you can use this list as a starting point. Begin by realistically deciding on your expected use, whether crossing oceans alone or with a family, limited coastal trips with crew or some combination of those. If you’re sailing alone or with one other person, then the smaller boats on this list are worth considering. If you have kids and a dog, and can’t find a way to leave them ashore, you’ll want a boat at the larger end of the list. Even those may not be big enough, in which case I’d recommend cutting the crew list rather than lengthening the boat. 

At any rate, make a list of your own requirements in a boat, such as cost, draft, amount of headroom needed below deck, inboard or outboard engine and so on. Then start looking closer at the boats on this list that match your criteria. Go aboard as many of these boats as you can and ask questions of their owners until you find the right boat for you. Once you’ve narrowed it down, try to arrange a test sail if you’re serious about the boat. Keep in mind that the seller or broker may be reluctant to offer a test sail due to bad experiences in the past where buyers just out for an education wasted their time on test sails without doing enough prior research to know they were interested in actually buying the boat.

Make an offer to purchase contingent on a satisfactory survey and then find a surveyor who will do a thorough inspection, not just the standard quick check required for an insurance company. Be there with the surveyor to ask questions and have them point out to you any issues with the boat. 

Older boats will require more upgrades (time and money) simply because of their age unless a recent owner has already refit the boat. Many of the boats on this list were built over forty years ago, so virtually all their systems – rigging, engine, rudder, deck core, electrics – will require repair or replacement. In most cases it is wiser to buy the fully upgraded older boat, if you’re fortunate enough to find one, and pay a premium price up front than to get involved in a major reconstruction project at a bargain purchase price. The previous owner of that finely fitted out classic boat has poured far more money into upgrades and equipment than he will get out of it when he sells and you as buyer are in a good position to save substantial time and money. Remember, the most expensive boat to own is the one that had the cheapest asking price. So my advice is not to hunt for the cheapest boat on the market, but the best boat you can afford. And don’t forget to keep at least 50% of your boat fund in reserve for the inevitable cost overruns on a fitting out project. Even for a boat that was recently refitted, I’d keep 25% of my budget in reserve for the inevitable changes and equipment additions you’ll want.

There will always be issues to compromise on. For example, your ideal boat may have been “upgraded” with dubious improvements such as a conversion from tiller to wheel steering by a previous owner who wanted a more yacht-style boat. In most cases you can convert back to tiller. Boats that came from the factory with wheel steering as standard equipment are not on this list unless the conversion back to tiller steering is simple and the boats otherwise merit inclusion. You may ask, if wheel steering is so popular and makes the boat look yacht-like to you, why do I dismiss them? With a tiller, you have more space in the cockpit, particularly at anchor when you swing it up and out of the way which is typically over 90% of your time on the boat, self-steering is easier to rig, you always see the rudder angle with a glance at the tiller, the feel of the steering is more direct and intuitive, it’s lighter and simpler, less maintenance and far more reliable. A steering failure at sea is no joke and is much more common with wheel steering and can be difficult to jury rig a repair.

Why not list bigger boats? My feeling is you should get the smallest boat that will suit your requirements rather than the largest boat you feel you can afford. A boat any larger than around 30-foot and 5 tons means significantly bigger, heavier, more expensive gear, higher maintenance costs and more labor to maintain and operate. Maintenance and equipment costs can double between a 28 to a 38-footer. An outboard motor under 10 HP is far less costly to replace and maintain than a diesel and provides adequate thrust for boats under 30-foot. At some point you may want to put your boat on a trailer to refit in your backyard and as I mentioned earlier this becomes difficult or costly for boats over 30-foot and 10,000 lbs.

Also, when things go wrong on a big boat they go wrong in a big way – you can’t manhandle a jammed furling genoa on a 45-foot boat in a gale like you can on a 28-footer. Nor can you pull up the anchors by hand on a windy day. Granted, a heavy displacement boat closer to 32 feet is potentially safer and better suited for high latitude voyages and will generally have an easier motion at sea. But a smaller, less-complex boat will give you as much or more pleasure and is safer to sail in most situations. And for those on a budget it will get you sailing sooner rather than later. 

If, after considering everything above, you feel a larger boat with different design criteria is suitable for your purposes then you should check out the sailboat reviews at  Blue Water Boats .

A final word of advice to the novice sailor – resist the temptation to undertake a major refit and extensive modifications on your new old boat right at the start. It’s best to make only the obvious repairs needed and go out and sail locally and on some limited coastal passages to learn exactly what is and what is not needed for you. Otherwise you may end up spending years and many thousands of dollars more than expected modifying your boat and then find out on your first ocean crossing that the boat is not right for you or those great ideas you had during the refurbishment did not work out that well at sea.

The following boats are listed here with the idea that they will be modified as needed for the type of voyages expected of them. Once you’ve found your boat, now go challenge your distant sea!

(some data and images courtesy  sailboatdata.com )

• New in 2019:  Sailboat Design Ratios ( link to online Google Sheet version ) You may find this searchable spreadsheet of sailboat calculations useful to compare characteristics between boats. Some data may be missing or inaccurate as we are still updating. The color codes run from red (areas of potential concern) to green (considered optimal). But these are rough guides and not always usable. For example, the sail area/displacement ratio may show red, which could mean under-ballasted, but is more likely to be a positive attribute of having extra sail area for light airs that can be reefed to bring the boat back into a better ratio.

Pacific Seacraft Flicka 20  

LOA: 24’ LOD: 20’ LWL: 18’2” Beam: 8’ draft: 3’3” Displacement: about 6,000 lbs. Ballast: 1,800 lbs. internal lead. Sail Area: 250 sq ft.

General Comments:  In 1972 Bruce Bingham designed the Flicka to be one of the smallest offshore capable pocket cruisers. Built first by Nor-star with some available as owner-finished kits. Pacific Seacraft then built 434 Flickas from 1978 to around 1994. Pluses: Pacific Seacraft sailboats are known for quality construction and good resale value. Some Flickas came powered with an outboard motor. 5’11” headroom. Minuses: This egg-shaped boat is cramped on deck and although relatively spacious below, would be challenging for two liveaboards and the inboard diesel option leaves even less space for gear and provisions. In anything other than ideal conditions the Flicka is slow, particularly in light winds, which is to be expected from putting so much beam, freeboard and displacement into such a small length boat. The lack of a bridge deck on pre-1984 models could expose the cabin to flooding from the cockpit. More info:

• http://www.flicka20.com
• https://www.practical-sailor.com/sailboat-reviews/flicka

Falmouth Cutter 22

LOD: 30’6” LOD: 22’ LWL: 20’10” Beam: 8’ Draft: 3’6” Displacement: 7,400 lbs. Ballast: 2,500 lbs encapsulated lead.

General Comments: Approximately 39 of these salty Lyle Hess design pocket cruisers were built in fiberglass at Sam L. Morse yard in California and at other yards, including Cape George Marine. Pluses: Her long bowsprit and generous 403 sq. ft. sail area make her performance better than expected for a small and heavy traditional design pocket cruiser. 5’11” headroom under short cabin trunk. Minuses: Rare, expensive and heavy. The interior of such a small boat is obviously cramped for cruising and the standard inboard diesel engine makes it more so, but a small outboard motor is an option and their lesser resale value can make the boat more affordable. Unfortunately, few come on the market. More info:

• http://www.capegeorgecutters.com/FC22/index.html
• Channel Cutter Yachts

LOA: 24’7” LWL: 18’1” Beam: 8’ Draft: 3’5” Displacement: 5,920 lbs. Ballast: 1,900 lbs. internal lead. Sail Area: 296 sq. ft.

General Comments: 726 boats built between 1969-83. Outboard motor well or inboard diesel option. Similar in some dimensions to the Cape Dory 25D. Earlier models called the Sailstar 24 are reported to have concrete/iron ballast and shallow bilge. If the bilge is only about 6″ deep, its’ the Sailstar. Pluses: 6’ cabin headroom. Some later models have a slot in the transom for a tilt-up outboard well, which is a big advantage over a fixed well. More info: https://sailingmagazine.net/article-1179-bristol-24.html

Pacific Seacraft Dana 24

LOA: 27’3” LOD: 24’ LWL: 21’5” Beam: 8’7” Draft: 3’10” Displacement: 8,000 lbs. Ballast: 3,200 lbs. internal lead. Sail area: 358 sq. ft. (100% foretriangle)

General Comments: Bill Crealock design built from 1984-99. 18HP Yanmar diesel standard. Sloop or cutter rig with 3′ long bowsprit. Pluses: 8’7” beam and 6’1″ headroom on a 24 foot boat with open V-berth design makes it surprisingly roomy inside. Eight bronze opening ports. Enclosed head and shower! Minuses: A very expensive 24-footer. More info:

Dana 24 Video Tour  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ubcqjUby8Yw http://www.janice142.com/BoatInfo/Dana24…

Bayfield 25

LOD: 25’ LWL: 19’8″ Beam: 8′ Displacement: 4,300 lbs Draft: 2’11” Ballast: 1,500 lbs. Sail area: 240 Sq. Ft.

General Comments:  Pluses: Long, full keel makes for shallow draft. Roomy for its size which is closer to 24′ on deck not counting the molded in bowsprit. 6′ headroom. Minuses: Relatively slow in light airs. Its shallow draft keel would seem to indicate less resistance to capsize in storm conditions compared to most other boats on this list. Not a great choice for long or high latitude passages where extreme weather may be encountered but probably suitable for most cruising if passage planning is done carefully. Companionway sill is dangerously low, but could be raised without much trouble. More info: http://sailquest.com/market/models/bayf25.htm

Cape Dory 25

LOD: 24’10” LWL: 18’ Beam: 7’3” Draft: 3’ Displacement: 4,000 lbs. Ballast: 1,700 lbs. Sail area: 264 sq. ft.

General Comments: George Stadel design. 846 boats built between 1972-82. A similar version was built earlier by Allied Boat Company as the Greenwich 24. The 25D version listed below is a different design with diesel inboard. The 25 has an outboard well in lazarette. Minuses: Requires several modifications for offshore safety such as reducing cockpit footwell volume and modifying companionway dropboards so they don’t fall out when raised slightly. Headroom is limited to about 5’. Boats from before around 1979 had fixed ports, later models had bronze opening ports. More info: http://www.capedory.org/specs/cd25.htm

Cape Dory 25D

LOD: 25’ LWL: 19’ Beam: 8’ Draft: 3’6” Displacement: 5,120 lbs. Ballast: 2,050 lbs. encapsulated lead.

General Comments: Alberg design. 184 built between 1981-85. Main salon has 5’11” headroom. Large head and shower in place of V-berth. More info:   http://www.capedory.org/specs/cd25d.htm

Pacific Seacraft 25

LOA: 26’3” LWL: 21’ Beam: 8’ Draft: 3’3” Displacement: 4,750 lbs. Ballast: 1,750 lbs. encapsulated lead. Sail area: 250 sq. ft. masthead sloop or cutter with bowsprit.

General Comments: Henry Mohrschladt designed double-ended cutter built in the mid to late 1970’s. Pluses: Six opening bronze portlights. Mast can be raised and lowered in its tabernacle. Minuses: Headroom is limited to about 5 feet. Low companionway entrance requires the lower dropboards be secured at sea. The 8 HP inboard Yanmar is hard to access unless you remove the cockpit footwell floor which is difficult to seal. Although small double-ender designs such as this are a good candidate for going engineless with a sculling oar or pair of sweeps or an electric inboard if you don’t require more than a couple hours motoring between charges of the battery bank, the only other option is to keep the inboard diesel. More info: Reviewed in John Vigor’s Twenty Small Sailboats to Take You Anywhere .

Rhodes Meridian 25

LOA: 24’9” LWL: 17’6” Beam: 7’ to 7’3” Draft: 3’3” to 3’7” Displacement: 5,300 lbs. Ballast: 2,300 lbs.

General Comments: Built in Holland in the 1960’s. Several versions available, including the Seafarer with more beam and draft in later models. Some came with an outboard well. Pluses: Beautiful sheer line and practical interior layout with 5’8” headroom in salon. Minuses: Not many of these boats are available on the market. Many came with wooden spars prone to rot over the years. Avoid the few late 1960’s models that had fin keel with detached rudder. More info: https://sailboat.guide/seafarer/meridian-25

Vancouver 25

LOD: 25′ LWL: 21’8″ Beam: 8’6″ Draft: 3’10” Displacement: 7,380 lbs. Ballast: 3,000 lbs.

General Comments: Designed by Robert Harris who also designed the Vancouver 27/28. Up to about 40 of these pocket cruisers were built mostly in Taiwan around the early 1980’s. A few may have been built in Thailand and California. Full keel with slightly cutaway forefoot and short bowsprit. Pluses: Nicely fitted out with teak and bronze hardware. Standing headroom reported to be at least 6′. Minuses: An inboard engine may not be what some people want on a boat of this size, but is mostly unavoidable on a double-ender design. More info: https://veronaleslie.wordpress.com/category/vancouver-25s/

Contessa 26 / Taylor 26

LOD: 25’6” LWL: 21’ Beam: 7’6” Draft: 4’ Displacement: 5,400 lbs. Ballast: 

General Comments: Designed by David Sadler based on the International Folkboat. Several hundred were built in Canada as the Taylor 26 and in the UK as Contessa 26. After 1983 the Taylor 26 began using lead ballast instead of iron, lowered the cabin sole for more headroom and stability, amidships hatch added for light and ventilation, newer model Yanmar diesel and other improvements. Pluses: Proven circumnavigator. The 1983-90 production boats appear the best choice. Minuses: Instead of the traditional sliding companionway hatch, the boats have a raised bubble to the coachroof, which causes the boat to feel cramped, reduces ventilation and makes it awkward to take quick checks of the horizon when on watch in foul weather. As I was prepping a Contessa for an offshore delivery from Brunswick, GA to Maine I noticed the side decks are so narrow it’s a tight squeeze to get by between the dodger and lifelines. Also the dodger obstructs the jib sheet winches. Because the salon bunks are moved aft as quarterberths, the galley is located forward of the bunks, forcing you to cook on your knees and making the boat hot. The advantages of the massive outboard hung rudder are offset by the inability to replace the inboard diesel with an outboard well. But an outboard bracket on a corner of the transom is a possibility. More info: Contessa Corner  website and  forum

Cape Dory 26

LOD: 25’11” LWL: 19’3” Beam: 8’ Draft: 3’7” Displacement: 5,300 lbs. Ballast: 2,400 lbs. Sail area: 304 sq. ft.

General Comments: Alberg design. 78 were built between 1984-88. Most have an outboard motor well in lazarette. Pluses: 5’11” headroom. More info: http://www.capedory.org/specs/cd26.htm

Cheoy Lee Offshore 26

LOD: 25’7” LWL: 20’11” Beam: 8’10” Draft: 3’9” Displacement: 6,100 lbs. Ballast: 2,240 lbs. More info: http://www.cheoyleeassociation.com/offshore26.htm   

Columbia 26 (classic model)

LOD: 26’4″ LWL: 19′ Beam: 8′ Draft: 4′ Displacement: 5,200 lbs. Ballast: 2,300 lbs. lead. Sail area: 321 sq.ft.

General comments: Some 700 boats built between 1963-69. Outboard well. Pluses: 6’1″ headroom for those who need it. Not to be confused with the fin keel/spade rudder MKII and later versions. More info:   http://www.columbia-yachts.com/c-26.html

International (IF) or Nordic Folkboat 26

LOD: 25’1” LWL: 19’8” Beam: 7’5” Draft: 3’11” Displacement: approx. 5,000 lbs. Ballast: 2,750 lbs. iron. Sail area: 258 sq. ft.

General Comments: Updated Tord Sunden designed fiberglass version of the original 25’ wooden folkboat. Built by various manufacturers of similar design mostly from Sweden and Denmark between 1967-84. Different models varied in areas such as cockpit design, inboard engine or outboard options, aluminum masthead or wooden fractional rig. Pluses: More than half it’s displacement is ballast which makes this small, low freeboard boat very stable for it’s size. Over three thousand have been built with many still on the market in Europe and over one hundred in the USA. Our English friend, Tony Curphey, completed a circumnavigation in his folkboat in the 1990’s. Minuses: Although capable of offshore voyages they were mainly designed for racing or short cruises and are cramped below with max headroom of 4’8″. A wet ride going to windward. More info: Some of the site below is in English, including a review in Good Old Boat Magazine under the Articles link. Also reviewed in John Vigor’s book, Twenty Small Sailboats to Take You Anywhere. http://www.ifboat.com/indexe.htm

LOA: 27’6” LOD: 26’ LWL:  Beam: 7’10” Draft: 4’ Displacement:  6,200 lbs. Ballast: 2,700 lbs.

General Comments: Only 26 of these were built by John Kaiser, Sr. of Wilmington, Del. Pluses: At least 5’10” headroom. Minuses: Hard to find on the market.  More info: Little info online, but here are some owner’s comments. http://www.sailnet.com/forums/…

Morris Frances 26

LOD: 26’ LWL: 21’3” Beam: 8’ to 8’2” Draft: 3’10” Displacement: 6,800 lbs. Ballast: 3,500 lbs. (external or encapsulated lead)

General Comments:  Double-ended cutter or 7/8 sloop designed by Chuck Paine. About 42 built by Morris Yachts, also called the Morris 26. Others were built by Victoria Marine in Britain and called  the Victoria 26. Flush-decked or 6’ headroom in cabin trunk version. Pluses: High quality construction, beautiful design, good high ballast ratio. A singlehanded voyager’s dream. Minuses: Expensive. Keel-stepped mast is strong but cannot be raised or lowered without a crane, which is a disadvantage if you intend to trailer her often. Inboard engine, even a small Yanmar 1GM10, takes up much useable space and an outboard motor is difficult to fit and unsightly on a double-ender. More info: http://frances26.org/reviews.html http://www.janice142.com/BoatInfo/Frances26/

Pearson Ariel 26

LOD: 25’7” LWL: 18’8” Beam: 8’ Draft: 3’8” Displacement: 5,120 lbs. Ballast: 2,300 lbs. lead.

General Comments: Another classic Alberg design. The Pearson Commander 26 is the same hull design as the Ariel, but much shorter cabin and longer cockpit make the Commander better suited to daysailing. Atomic 4 inboard or outboard motor well in lazarette. Plusses: Active owners association. Minuses: Like most of the factory installed motor wells out there, the motor does not tilt up for sailing so it either gets dragged through the water under sail of must be awkwardly lifted out and stored in another locker. I haven’t measured it but there may not be adequate space between the transom and rudder shaft to make a tilt-up conversion. Check my outboard well article in this site for more info. More info: http://pearsonariel.org/

LOA: 30’5″ LOD: 26′ LWL: 21’3″ Beam: 8’3” Draft: 3’4″ Displacement: 6,600 lbs. Ballast: 2,650 lbs. lead.

General Comments: Daniel Avourer designed double ended cutter built by Voyager in 1980’s. Diesel inboard standard. Pluses: Full keel with shoal draft. Good quality build and attractive lines. Six or eight bronze opening ports. Minuses: Relatively rare. More info:   http://www.sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_ID=4664

Westerly Centaur 26

LOD: 26’ LWL: 21’4” Beam: 8’5” Draft: 3’ Displacement: 5,500 lbs. Ballast: cast iron. Sail area: 294 sq. ft. (100% foretriangle)

General Comments: This UK built boat’s shallow draft and ability to stand upright on her twin keels may be a priority for some sailors which is why I made an exception to this list’s modified full keel requirement and included it here.  Some 2,500 were built from 1969-80. A friend of ours completed a solo circumnavigation in an outboard motor powered WC26 in 1997 without serious problems. Pluses: Great 3’ draft twin-keel concept if you want to stand the boat upright in shallow tidal harbors. The boat has more than expected stowage area. Minuses: If only the builder could put twin keels on a more attractive design. The twin keels are notably less efficient than a single deep fin keel, and perhaps even less than the windward performance of a similar full-keeled boat. In any case, this boat is relatively slow. Most were fitted with inboard engines. More info: https://www.spinsheet.com/boat-reviews/westerly-centaur-26-used-boat-review

Albin Vega 27  

LOD: 27’1” LWL: 23’2” Beam: 8’1” Draft: 3’10” Displacement: 5,070 lbs. Ballast: 2,020 lbs.

General Comments: Over 3,400 of these boats were built in Sweden between the mid 1960’s to 1979. 5’10” headroom in salon and galley. Pluses: Her proportions are well designed even if her overall appearance is unremarkable. Numerous long offshore passages have been documented including a circumnavigation of the Americas. Minuses: Some of these boats lack opening ports, reducing ventilation. Deck-stepped mast beam may need reinforcing. Chain plates are mere 8mm U-bolts bolted through the deck to hull flange in the European style and although most boats have not had problems with them, some have so you might consider adding external chain plates. Parts of the bilge are impossible to access due to the inboard engine and tanks. More info at: http://www.bluemoment.com/boatreviews/vegareview.html http://www.albinvega.com/vegadescription.html

Bristol 27  

LOD: 27’2” LWL: 19’9” Beam: 8’ Draft: 4’ Displacement: 6,600 lbs. Ballast: 2,575 lbs. internal lead. Sail area: 340 sq. ft.

General Comments: Alberg design that closely resembles the slightly larger Pearson Triton. About 337 built by Clint Pearson from 1966-78. Outboard motor well in lazarette standard. Optional Atomic 4 inboard. Some differences between cruising model, dinette model and the weekender that has shortened cabin and too large a cockpit for offshore. Pluses: 5’10” headroom in head compartment. Minuses: Some owners claim the boat is tender and is improved by adding up to 300 lb. ballast aft of the water tank. Although generally well constructed, the boats are aging and the bolted hull to deck joint  is prone to leaks. More info: https://www.practical-sailor.com/sailboat-reviews/bristol-27

Cape Dory 27

LOD: 27’1” LWL: 20’ Beam: 8’6” Draft: 4’ Displacement: 7,500 lbs. Ballast: 3,000 lbs. Sail area: 365 sq. ft.

General Comments: Alberg design. 227 built between 1976-84. 5’10” headroom. Diesel engine standard but with 30 inches between transom and rudder post it could be converted to an outboard well to simplify if desired. Minuses: Recessed deck anchor locker on some boats does not allow storage space for long rode or anchor windlass but it can be converted to a standard chain locker below deck similar to what I described in my Columbia 8.7 refit article. More info: http://www.capedory.org/specs/cd27.htm

Cheoy Lee Newell Cadet / Offshore 27

LOD: 26’10” LWL: 19’6” Beam: 7’8” Draft: 4’4” Displacement: 6,900 lbs. Ballast: 2,700 lbs. (iron in cement) General Comments: At least two versions were built in the 1960’s at the Honk Kong yard. Minuses: Teak decks from the 1960’s are a maintenance problem. More info: http://www.cheoyleeassociation.com/N_CadetMain.html

Dockrell 27  

LOD: 27’ LWL: 21’ Beam: 8’ Draft: 3’ Displacement: 7,000 lbs. Ballast: 3,200 lbs. long iron wing keel. General Comments: British built long-keeler with shallow draft, cutter rigged with a self-tacking boomed staysail and the mast in a tabernacle.  Pluses: Shoal draft and possible to stand upright on her wing keel in protected harbors or with legs added to stabilize her. Proven passage maker. Minuses: Somewhat slow to windward. More info: http://www.yachtsnet.co.uk/archives/dockrell-27/dockrell-27.htm

LOD: 27’  LWL: 20’3″ Beam: 7’8″ Draft: 4’ Displacement: 6,720 lbs. Ballast: 3,000 lbs. encapsulated lead. Sail area: 365 sq. ft. main and genoa. General Comments: Designed by Alan Buchanan in 1968. Some 200 were built in UK by Offshore Yachts. Full keel with slightly cutaway forefoot with transom hung rudder.  Pluses: Solid passage maker with attractive lines. For those who need the extra height she has about 6′ headroom under the doghouse which is better than most folkboat derivatives such as the Contessa 26. Minuses: Few available outside UK. More info: http://www.yachtsnet.co.uk/archives/halcyon-27/halcyon-27.htm

Pacific Seacraft Orion 27

LOA: 30’ LOD: 27’ LWL: 22’2” Beam: 9’3” Draft: 4’ Displacement: 10,000 lbs. Ballast: 3,800 lbs. Sail area: 445 sq. ft. ?

General Comments: Henry Morschladt designed Cutter rig with bowsprit. 6’1” headroom. Pluses: The Mark II version has longer coachroof, extra ports and hatch. Minuses: Most boats on the market seem to have the wheel steering option, but could be converted back to tiller. Many have an “A” layout plan with a U-shaped dinette opposite a long galley which means there is no bunk in the center salon, but the table does convert to a double bunk and there is a pilot berth. More info: https://sailingmagazine.net/article-2125-pacific-seacraft-orion-27.html

LOA: 31’ LOD: 27’ LWL: 25’ Beam: 8’ Draft: 3’10” Displacement: 8,100 lbs. Ballast: 3,100 lbs.

General Comments:  Lyle Hess design built by various yards over the years. One of the larger “trailerable” offshore cruisers. Rig height varied by 4-foot for heavy and light air versions. Minuses: Most were built with what some consider an awkward aft cabin layout. Some boats were owner finished and early models had perhaps less than optimal ballast. More info: https://www.spinsheet.com/boat-reviews/norsea-27-used-boat-review

Rossiter Pintail 27

LOA: 27′ LOD: 23’ LWL: ” Beam: 8’9” Draft: 3’7″ Displacement: 11,600 lbs. Ballast: 4,600 lbs. Sail area:  sq. ft.

General Comments: Built originally in wood then in fiberglass during the early 1970s by Rossiter Yachts in England. Full keel encapsulated lead ballast and integral molded bilge keels to allow her to have shallow draft and stand upright when drying out at low tide. Headroom 5’9″. Sloop rig. Came with Lister 15hp diesel.  More info: https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/pintail-rossiter

Sea Sprite 27/28

LOD: 27’11” LWL: 20’ Beam: 8’10” Draft: 4’3” Displacement: 7,600 lbs. Ballast: 3,600 lbs. General Comments: Bill Luders design built by C. E. Ryder. 6’ headroom. More info: http://www.pickedwiss.com/sea_sprite_28/ http://www.seaspriteassociation.com/

LOD: 27’ LWL: 21’4” Beam: 8’8” Draft: 3’2” with board up, 6’4” board down. Displacement: 7,400 lbs. Ballast: 2,400 lbs.

General Comments: About 700 of these S&S design keel/centerboard cruisers were built between 1961-79. The boats built before the 1976 raised sheer redesign had a classic stepped deckhouse and were more cramped inside, but are preferred by some for their aesthetics and more accessible deck layout. Pluses: Shoal draft of 3’2”. Headroom of nearly 6′. Minuses: Shoal draft keel/centerboard designs are potentially less likely to recover from a knock-down beyond 90 degrees in extreme conditions, but her ample long keel minimizes this threat. More info: Tartan Owners Group

Vancouver 27/28

LOD:  27’ LWL: 22’11” Beam: 8’8” Draft: 4’3” Displacement: 8,800 – 8,960 lbs. Ballast: 3,500 lbs.

General Comments: Designed by Robert Harris as a sturdy ocean passage maker. Cutter rigged with outboard rudder. Built first from 1973-88 in British Columbia on semi-production basis. Later built in Britain by Pheon Yachts who reportedly added a few inches of tumblehome to make her a bit stiffer. Then built by Northshore Yachts who added a foot to the length of the cockpit to make the Vancouver 28. Two versions were built: one with quarterberth and head forward and the other with a V-berth and no quarterberth. Pluses: Headroom is about 6’1″. Large water and fuel tanks. Minuses: Somewhat high-sided and a heavy boat not known for great light air performance. Canadian version reported prone to blistering and some were owner finished with varying quality. More info : https://www.boats.com/reviews/pocket-voyager/

Bristol Channel Cutter 28

LOA: 37’9” LOD: 28’1” LWL: 26’3” Beam: 10’1” Draft: 4’10” Displacement: 14,000 lbs. Ballast: 4,600 lbs.

General Comments: Lyle Hess design built in fiberglass at Sam L. Morse yard in California. Some were built under license at other yards. Currently built at Cape George Marine. Pluses: Classic exquisite design and high quality construction. Minuses: Rare on the market, expensive and heavy. More info: http://capegeorgecutters.com/_boat-designs/bristol-channel-cutter-28/

Cape Dory 28

LOD: 28’1” LWL: 22’2” Beam: 8’10” Draft: 4’ Displacement: 9,000 lbs. Ballast: 3,500 lbs. Sail area: 404 sq. ft.

General Comments: Alberg design. About 389 built between 1975-84. Most were powered by two-cylinder 15-hp Volvo diesels that may be reaching the end of their lifespan. Pluses: 6’2″ headroom. Minuses: Boats built prior to 1978 had plastic ports instead of bronze and no bridgedeck, with low companionway entrance that is best modified for safer offshore passages. More info: http://www.capedory.org/specs/cd28.htm

Cheoy Lee Offshore 28

LOA: 28’ LWL: 22’ Beam: 9’2” Draft: 3’6” with centerboard up. Displacement: 8,000 lbs. Ballast: ? modified full keel with centerboard. Sail area: 377 sq. ft.

General Comments: Bill Luders design. Inboard diesel standard. Tiller or wheel options. Pluses: Moderate draft. Minuses: Teak decks of this era require replacing or removal. Like most centerboard keels, they are prone to jam, break cables, and are difficult to maintain. Better to avoid a centerboard unless the design is of proven quality and you need the shallow draft for your cruising area.  More info: http://www.cheoyleeassociation.com/offshore28.htm

Great Dane 28

LOA: 28’ LWL: 21’4″ Beam: 8’2″ Draft: 4’6″ Displacement: 8,500 lbs. Ballast: 3,900 lbs. Sail area: 370 sq. ft.

General Comments:  Some 250 were built in Denmark between 1964-80. Transom/keel-hung rudder. Pluses: Boasts 6′ headroom despite her sleek low profile. More info: http://gd28.wikidot.com/start

L. Francis Herreshoff H-28

LOA: 29’6” LWL: 23’ Beam: 8’10” Draft: 3’11” Displacement: 7,300 lbs. Ballast: 3,950 lbs.

General Comments: Some were built in wood. Of the fiberglass versions, some 300 were built by Compass Yachts of New Zealand from early 1970’s until 1984. Differences to Herreshoff’s original design are a lifted sheer, longer cabin trunk with raised dog house with lowered keel to compensate for increased headroom, and increased length to 29.5 feet. More info: https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/h-28-herreshoff

Liberty Yachts Custom 28

LOD: 28’ LWL: 24’ Beam: 9’6” Draft: 4’ Displacement: 12,000 lbs. Ballast: 5,000 lbs.

General Comments: A very heavily constructed double-ended, full keel cruiser. Cutter rig with bowsprit. Built in the 1980’s. Pluses: 6’2” headroom. Minuses: Expensive and heavy.  More info:  http://www.sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_ID=4480

Morris Linda 28  

LOA: 28’1” LWL: 23’4” Beam: 9’2” Draft: 4’4” Displacement: 8,300 lbs. Ballast: 3,900 lbs exterior lead.

General Comments: Chuck Paine design built by Morris Yachts. Pluses: Exquisite design details and quality Morris construction. 6’ headroom. Minuses: Expensive.  More info: https://bluewaterboats.org/morris-28-linda

Pearson Triton 28

LOD: 28’6” LWL: 20’6” Beam: 8’3” Draft: 4’ (later models 4’3”) Displacement: approx. 8,000 lbs. Ballast: 3,019 lbs. (early models before hull #383 external lead, later models encapsulated lead.) Sail area: 362 sq. ft. 100% foretriangle fractional rig.

General Comments: Designed by Carl Alberg in 1959 with over 700 built until 1967. Some were built on the West Coast with slight design and construction differences. Pluses: Plentiful and affordable on the US East coast. 6′ headroom in salon. Lack of interior fiberglass hull liners make modifications and repairs easier. Her short waterline makes her glide easily through the waters running downwind and in light air and when the wind picks up she heels to pick up waterline length and increase hull speed. Minuses: Original East Coast fractional sloop or yawl rig is lightly stayed and requires heavier chain plates and reinforced mast beam for offshore voyaging. Balsa deck cores (on East Coast built boats) and wood rudders need replacing at some point. Cramped galley. Low freeboard, about 2-foot aft, makes her a wet sail to windward and less roomy below than newer boats, but I prefer a boat with low freeboard because it has less resistance to wind and wave and is handy to get aboard from the water or dinghy. The large and low cockpit makes her susceptible to storm waves filling the cockpit so a secure hatch and lockers is important. More info: Alberg Sailboats Triton Atom Video Tours: Triton Interior Tour Triton Exterior Tour

Rhodes Ranger 28/29

LOA: 28’6″ LWL: 20′ Beam: 8′ Draft: 3’10” Displacement: 7,500 lbs. Ballast: reported as 1,900 lbs. external iron or 2,750 lbs. lead.

General Comments:  Philip Rhodes design built by Seafarer in Holland in the 1960’s. Don’t confuse with Gary Mull design Ranger 28. Pluses: 5’10” headroom. Some have optional outboard well in lazarette and the others would be suitable to make the conversion yourself. Minuses: Many have wooden spars that require more vigilance and maintenance than aluminum. More info: https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/rhodes-ranger-29

LOA: Just under 32′ including pulpit and outboard hung rudder. LOD: 28’2” LWL: 22’11”’ Beam: 9’6” Draft: 4’3” Displacement: 9,300 lbs. Ballast: 3,600 lbs. encapsulated lead. Sail area: 470 sq. ft. cutter.

General Comments: About sixty of these high quality Walter Shultz design cutters were built by Shannon Yachts of Bristol, R.I. since 1978. Modified full keel with cutaway forefoot and full skeg-protected rudder. Two-cylinder Yanmar. Pluses: 6′ headroom. Minuses: Expensive. More info: https://bluewaterboats.org/shannon

Southern Cross 28

LOA: 30’5” LOD: 28’ LWL: 20’2” Beam: 8’6” Draft: 4’8” Displacement: 8,500 lbs. Ballast: 3,400 lbs.

General Comments: Thomas Gillmer design. Airex cored hulls. Minuses: Some were owner completed kit boats of varying quality. Inboard rudder mounted on substantial skeg with shortened keel compared to the Southern Cross 31. More info: http://www.southerncross-boats.org/memberinfo.html

LOA: 28’  LWL: about 22’ Beam: about 8’ Draft: 4’6” Displacement: 7,850 lbs. Ballast: 3,085 lbs.

General Comments:  About 60 were built at a small yard in Hong Kong. Pluses: Nice lines and good-handling with several having made ocean crossings including by myself on a delivery voyage from the Caribbean to Brazil. Minuses: Variable construction quality with tanks and bulkheads known to come loose over the years. More info: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taipan_28

Westsail 28

LOD: 28’ LWL: 25’ Beam: 9’7” Draft: 4’4” Displacement: 13,500 lbs. Ballast: 4,200 lbs.

General Comments: Some 60 of these smaller sister to the popular, but heavy Westsail 32 were built. Pluses: Beautiful lines and excellent heavy weather boat. Minuses: Heavy and slow in light air. A “K” in the first four digits of the hull number means it was a owner completed kit boat which will have varying construction quality. An “F” means factory finished. More info: http://www.westsail.org/

LOD: 29’3″ LWL: 22’3″ Beam: 9’2″ Draft: 4’7″ Displacement: 9,000 lbs. Ballast: 4,000 lbs. Sail area: 416 sq. ft.

General Comments: One of Alberg’s last designs built in the 1980s as a modernized version of the Alberg 30. Pluses: 6’2″ headroom. Minuses: Limited numbers were built and not many are on the market. More info: http://www.twentynine.ca/

Bayfield 29

LOA: 29’ LOD: about 27’6” LWL: 21’9” Beam: 10’2” Draft: 3’6” Displacement: 7,100 lbs. Ballast: 3,000 lbs.

General Comments: Built in Ontario. Available sloop or cutter with built-in bowsprit. Pluses: The long, full keel provides shallow draft for this size boat. There is a spacious head instead of a cramped V-berth. Minuses: High-sided. Although apparently tiller steering was standard from the factory, most boats on the market today have wheel steering. More info: http://sailquest.com/market/models/bayf29.htm

LOD: 29’2” LWL: 22’8” Beam: 9’2” Draft: 4’6” (fixed keel) Displacement: 8,400 lbs. Ballast: 3,350 lbs. internal lead. Sail area: 402 sq. ft.

General Comments: Designed by Halsey C. Herreshoff. 169 built by Bristol Yachts, Rhode Island from 1966-71. Fixed keel and centerboard versions available. Pluses: Teak toe rails. Above average construction features. More info: https://sites.google.com/site/bristolowners/bristol-models/bristol-29-30

Columbia 29  

LOD: 28’6″ LWL: 22’6″ Beam: 8′ Draft: 4′ Displacement: 7,400 lbs. early models and 8,400 late and MKII models. Ballast: 3,120 lbs. early and 4,100 lbs. late and MKII. Sail area: 382 sq. ft.

General Comments: Sparkman & Stephens design built by Columbia Yachts. Apparently some 300 MKI and MKII versions were built between 1962-67 but I noticed only two were on the market when I did a google search in January 2009. Also some raised deck models were built as the Defender 29. Main design of hull and deck and sail plan remained the same for MKI and II with some minor cosmetic changes. Outboard well and inboard engine options. Pluses: 6′ headroom. Outboard well versions available. Minuses: Few on the market to choose from. The raised deck of the Defender model means more interior volume at the expense of high freeboard. More info: http://www.columbia-yachts.com/c-29.html

Elizabethan 29

LOA: 29′ LWL: 20′ Beam: 7’6″‘ Draft: 4’2″” Displacement: 7,280 lbs. Ballast: About 3,300 lbs. iron. Sail area: 308 sq. ft sloop 100% foretriangle. General Comments: CR Holman design built in UK during 1960’s. Pluses: 5’10” headroom. Her long overhangs reduce wetted surface drag in light airs and she picks up waterline length quickly when heeled. Minuses: The E29 I was aboard struck me how narrow the beam was and cramped feeling below compared to other similar length boats – even the Pearson Ariel 26 seems roomier inside. Access to the inboard engine is tight. More info: https://www.eoa2.org/elizabethan29

Islander 29

LOA: 29′  LWL: about 23′ Beam: 8’11″‘ Draft: 3’8″ Displacement: 7,800 – 8,100 lbs. ? Ballast: 2,500 lbs.? lead. Total sail area: 392 sq. ft. General Comments: Built by Wayfarer Yachts of Costa Mesa, CA. beginning in 1969. Also called the Wayfarer 29. Minuses: Low companionway entrance looks vulnerable to flooding, but can be modified. Atomic 4 gas inboard was standard. Not many produced. More info: http://www.sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_ID=691

LOA: 28’11”  LWL: 20’7″ Beam: 8’11″‘ Draft: 4’7″ Displacement: about 7,800 Ballast: 3,003 lbs. external lead. Total sail area: 363 sq. ft 100% foretriangle masthead sloop.

General Comments: Designed by Bill Tripp. About 50 were built in Holland, mostly by Devries Lentsch Amsterdam Boatyard between 1963-?. 6’1″ headroom in salon and less forward. 6’4″ long settee/bunks. Keel-stepped aluminum mast with spruce spreaders and roller reefing spruce boom. Atomic 4 gas engine. Pluses: A good size overhanging transom permits a custom tilt-up outboard well installation in lazarette but some modification of cockpit is required. This boat has a narrow coachroof with wide side decks. Partial fiberglass liner inside with chainplates bolted through solid fiberglass rather than wood knees or plywood bulkheads. Good quality build construction.  Fiberglass rudder with solid bronze shaft and shoe. Unusually wide (33″) companionway entrance makes for good ventilation and the high bridgedeck makes it very seaworthy. Minuses: Balsa cored deck was properly sealed at factory for most deck fittings but some areas may be susceptible to core rot since these boats are over 50 years old now. More info: Tripp 29

Westerly Konsort 29

LOD: 28’10” LWL: 25’7” Beam: 10’9” Draft: 3’3” Displacement: 9,211 lbs. Ballast: 3,200 lbs. Total sail area: 392 sq. ft.

General Comments: Like her smaller sister the 26’ Centaur, this Laurent Giles designed British boat is listed here among modified full-keelers mainly because its shallow draft and ability to stand upright on her twin keels may be priorities for some sailors. Minuses: Relatively poor light air and windward performance of twin keels. Deep draft fin keel and pilothouse versions not applicable to this list. More info: https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/konsort-29-westerly

LOA: 30’3” LOD: 30’3” LWL:  Beam: 8’9” Draft: 4’3” Displacement: 9,000 lbs. Ballast:  3,300 lbs. (encapsulated cast iron) Sail area: 410 sq. ft.

General Comments: Alberg design. Some 750 built by Whitby Boat Works in Ontario from 1962-84. Most of the keel hung rudders are fiberglass composite. Around 1970 there were several changes made including going to a fiberglass interior hull liner, adding a molded fiberglass toe rail with teak cap instead of an all teak toe rail, and improved mast step reinforcement. Before around 1970 the deck and cabin house core may have been masonite, though I know of at least one 1968 model with balsa core. Later models used balsa. Masthead rig. Price range: from average $12K up to $25K. Pluses: Proven circumnavigator. Headroom ranges from a minimum of 6′ for hull liner models to possibly 6’1″ on early models. This is one of my favorite designs. The proportions seem just right. And the ample lazarette locker makes an easy conversion to an outboard well. Minuses: Atomic 4 gas inboard, but many have converted to diesel. Weak forward lower shroud chain plate knees and undersized chain plates. Deck mast step plate has screws that leak into core. Before 1970 the weak laminated mast support deck beams usually need extra support added. Later they added an aluminum support beam within the fiberglass liner. Old teak toe rails prone to leaking and may need replacement. I are placed one with aluminum toe rail. The fiberglass water tank under v-berth is only about 15 gals but integral tanks can be added there or in bilge. More info: http://www.alberg30.org/ There are several A30 refit video tours on my YT channel, such as: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXdS0ufiu1I https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-aIKJlfC7GA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7FLbexHsq4&t=4s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mDRrJ_udl7Y

Allied Seawind Ketch 30

LOA: 30’6” LWL: 24’ Beam: 9’3” Draft: 4’3” Displacement: 12,080 lbs. Ballast: 4,200 lbs. lead. Sail area: 500 sq. ft.

General Comments: Thomas Gilmer design built by Allied Boat Company of New York. 161 boats were launched between 1962 to 73 of which about 10 were sloop or cutter rigged. First fiberglass boat to circumnavigate. Don’t confuse with the Seawind II which is a foot longer and has wheel steering. Minuses: A bit slow to windward in light airs and the hull/deck joint is reported prone to leaking. More info: https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/seawind-allied

LOA: 30’6″ LWL: 22’8” Beam: 9’2” Draft: 4’6” std. keel. (centerboard version 3’4”) Displacement: 8,400 lbs. Ballast: 3,450 lbs. (internal lead) Sail area: 402 sq. ft.

General Comments: Halsey C. Herreshoff sloop design, 174 built from 1968-1978, based on the Bristol 29 hull. More info: https://sailboat.guide/bristol/30

LOA: 30′ LWL: 24’6″ Beam: 10′ Draft: 4’6″ Displacement: 9,600 lbs. Ballast: 3,500 lbs. lead.

General Comments: C.W. Lapworth design built by Jensen Marine in the 1960’s. Not to be confused with the fin keel spade rudder Cal 2-30. Minuses: Atomic 4 gas inboard was standard. More info: http://www.sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_ID=864

Cape Dory 30

LOA: 30 2″ LWL: 22’10” Beam: 9′ Draft: 4’2″ Displacement: 10,000 lbs. Ballast: 4,000 lbs. Sail area: 437 sq. ft. cutter. General Comments: Alberg design. 363 built between 1976-86. Tiller or wheel steering available. More info: http://www.capedory.org/specs/cd30.htm

Cheoy Lee Bermuda 30

LOA: 29’7″  LWL: 24′ Beam: 8’9″ Draft: 3’8″ Displacement: 10,100 lbs. Ballast:  Sail Area: 343 sq. ft.

General Comments: Available as ketch or sloop. Built in Hong Kong from 1962-67 in wood and fiberglass. Minuses: Lots of exterior wood to maintain even on the fiberglass version. More info: http://www.cheoyleeassociation.com/bermudas.htm

Cheoy Lee Luders 30

LOA: 29’10” LWL: 22′ Beam: 9’1″ Draft: 4’9″ Displacement: 9,900 lbs. Ballast: 3,750 lbs. Sail area: 425 sq. ft.

General Comments: Bill Luders design built in Hong Kong. Apparently most came with wheel steering though some have a tiller. Minuses: The trademark Cheoy Lee exterior teak needs constant maintenance or even major repairs by now if the previous owner has neglected her. More info: http://www.cheoyleeassociation.com/ludders30.htm

Morris Annie 30

LOA: 29’8″  LWL: 24’9″ Beam: 9’8″ Draft: 4’6″ Displacement: 10-11,000 lbs. Ballast: 4,400 lbs lead. Total sail area: 446 sq. ft. (100% foretriangle)

General Comments: Designed by Chuck Paine. Built by Morris Yachts from 1980 on. Sometimes referred to as the Morris 29. A similar design but with canoe transom is the Morris Leigh 30, which is a scaled up version of the Frances 26. Pluses: High quality construction and lovely design. Minuses: Expensive and hard to find since not many were produced. More info: http://www.chuckpaine.com/pdf/30ANNIE230.pdf

LOA: 32’6″ LOD: 30’6″ LWL: 22′ Beam: 9′ Draft: 5′ Displacement: 12,500 lbs. Ballast: 5,000 lbs. Sail area: 565 sq.ft.

General Comments: William Garden design. Some 250 sloops, as well as some pilothouse versions and ketch rigs were built in Redmond, WA from about 1960-84. Pluses: 6’3″ – headroom if you happen to need it. Minuses: Heavy and therefore somewhat slow in light air, though a bowsprit was added to later models to increase sail area and reduce weather helm. Offered also as owner finished kit boat with resulting variable finish quality. More info: https://sailboat.guide/rawson/30

Cape George 31

LOA: 36′ LOD: 31′ LWL: 27’6″ Beam: 9’6″ Draft: 4’6″ Displacement: 15,835 lbs. Ballast: 7,200 lbs. internal lead. General Comments: Cecil Lange design cutter rig with bowsprit built in Port Townsend. Pluses: The factory finished boats are exquisite in design and quality. Minuses: Some are owner finished kit boats. Rare, expensive and heavy. More info: http://capegeorgecutters.com/_boat-designs/cape-george-cutter-21/

Cheoy Lee Offshore 31  

LOA: 30’9″ LWL: 23’4″ Beam: 8’10” Draft: 3’10” Displacement: 10,750 lbs. Ballast: 4,000 lbs. Sail area: 424 sq. ft.

General Comments: Built in Hong Kong by Cheoy Lee in sloop or ketch rig. in the 1960’s. Minuses: Teak decks and lots of exterior wood trim to maintain. Only some of the boats have tiller steering. More info: http://www.cheoyleeassociation.com/offshore31.htm

Golden Hind 31

LOA: 34′ LOD: 31’6” LWL: 26’9” Beam: 9′ Draft: 3’8″ Displacement: 13,500 lbs. Ballast:5,100 lbs. Sail area: 426 sq. ft.

General Comments: Maurice Griffiths design sloop or cutter, mostly built in the UK, first in hard chine plywood and later in fiberglass. Full keel with bilge plates. Pluses: Good boat if you need shoal draft and ability to stand the boat upright on it’s bilge keel plates. 6’2″ headroom. Minuses: If you don’t particularly need the shallow draft, the bilge plates along with full keel add drag reducing sailing efficiency. More info: http://www.eventides.org.uk/goldpic.htm

Hallberg-Rassy Monsun 31

LOA: 30’9” LWL: 24’8” Beam: 9’5” Draft: 4’7″ Displacement: 9,250 lbs. Ballast: 4,200 lbs. Sail area: 430 sq. ft.

General Comments: Over 900 hulls built by Hallberg-Rassy in Sweden between 1974-82. Pluses: Good build quality with several having circumnavigated. More info: https://www.hallberg-rassy.com/yachts/previous-models/hallberg-rassy-monsun-31/

Nicholson 31

LOA: 31’7” LWL: 24’2” Beam: 10’3” Draft: 5’ Displacement: 14,750 lbs. Ballast: 5,300 lbs. Sail area: 500 sq. ft.

General Comments: Built in the UK by Caper & Nicholson as an updated version of the Nicholson 32 which would be on this list as well if not for it’s excessive 5’6″ draft. Pluses: Transom-hung rudder and overall solid good quality. More info: https://nicholson31.com/about/aboutnicholson31/

Pacific Seacraft 31

LOA: 31’10” LOD: 30’6” LWL: 24’2” Beam: 9’10” Draft: 4’/4’11” shoal option/standard full keel. Displacement: 11,000 lb. Ballast: 4,400 lb. external lead. Sail area: 485 sq. ft. sloop, 600 cuter.

General Comments: Crealock design. Early models available with optional tiller, although wheel steering is more common. Some boats have an open interior plan instead of the usual closed off V-berth. Minuses: Expensive. Even though it has a skeg rudder it is well protected and supported by the substantial skeg. More info: http://features.boats.com/boat-content/2000/08/cruising-expert/

Pacific Seacraft Mariah 31

LOA: 36’ LOD: 31’ LWL: 25’ Beam: 10’9” Draft: 4’6” Displacement: 16,000 lb. Ballast: 6,000 lb. Sail area: 596 sq. ft. General Comments: Available with tiller or wheel. Mark II version has bowsprit extended by one foot and a few other variations. Pluses: High quality design and construction typical of Pacific Seacraft. Minuses: Heavy and expensive. More info: https://bluewaterboats.org/pacific-seacraft-mariah-31

Southern Cross 31

LOA: 34’6” LOD: 31’ LWL: 25’ Beam: 9’6” Draft: 4’6” Displacement: 13,600 lb. Ballast: 4,400 lb. internal lead.

General Comments:  Thomas Gilmer designed double-ended cutter with external rudder. Airex cored hulls. Two standard interior layouts – one with standup nav station over a large locker and one with quarterberth. A larger though similar Gilmer design is the Aries 32, but only about 20 of those were built. Pluses: Eight opening ports and two hatches provide good ventilation.  Minuses: Some have owner-finished interiors of mixed quality. Details at: http://www.southerncross-boats.org/

Pearson Vanguard 32

LOA: 32’6″ LWL: 22’4″ Beam: 9’3″ Draft: 4’6″ Displacement: 10,300 lbs. Ballast: 4,250 lbs. internal lead. Sail area: About 470 sq. ft.

General Comments: Phil Rhodes design. Most of the 400 some boats built between 1963-67 were rigged as masthead sloop. Relatively narrow beam with long overhangs make her less roomy than many 32-footers, but her lines are sweet and she sails well. Pluses: Not burdened with excessive freeboard, beam or displacement for a 32-footer. 6′ 4″ headroom if you need it. Minuses: Atomic 4 standard gas inboard is best replaced by diesel or, if you don’t require extended motoring range, with an electric drive as a friend of mine has done with his. A tilt-up outboard well built into the lazarette may be an option because of the ample overhanging transom. More info: https://bluewaterboats.org/pacific-seacraft-mariah-31

Rhodes Chesapeake 32

LOA: 31’9″ LWL: 22’1″ Beam: 8’9″ Draft: 4’9″ Displacement: ? Ballast: 3,750 lbs. external lead. Sail area: 408 sq. ft. working sail and 588 with genoa.

General Comments: Phil Rhodes design similar to his Pearson Vanguard with less beam and deeper draft and more tradition looking square cabin top. About 95 were built in Denmark between 1961-65. More info: https://www.cruisingworld.com/classic-plastic-chesapeake-32/

Westsail 32

LOA: About 40′ including bowsprit and boomkin. LOD: 32’ LWL: 27’6” Beam: 11’ Draft: 5’ Displacement: 19,500 Ballast: 7,000 lbs internal (lead/iron on early boats and all lead casting on later models). Sail area: 629 sq. ft.

General Comments: William Crealock design based on a modified Kendall 32 which was descended from the double-ended Colin Archer pilot boats. About 830 W32’s were built between 1971-80 of which about half were owner finished kits. Pluses: 6’2 headroom. Massively constructed and easily able to carry over a ton of stores. Many of the deck-stepped masts have been rigged with a tabernacle allowing you to raise and lower the mast. Proven heavy weather capable circumnavigator. Check that mast support beam has proper support at base. Minuses: Heavy and slow in light airs, particularly to windward. Lack of cockpit coamings and the high bulwarks amidships mean cockpit can get very wet in heavy weather when water comes over the lee bow and is channeled to the cockpit. Adding amidships scuppers and backrests to the cockpit reduces this problem. Lots of aging exterior teak to maintain. More info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kendall_32 http://www.westsail.org/

4 thoughts on “Classic Small Cruisers List”

I have a Westsail 32 that I’ve decided to sell. https://www.sailboatlistings.com/view/91379

Kinda hoping to see my Ericsson 32-2 on this list. Thanks for all this information.

I have sailed my Bayfield 32 on Lake Erie, known for its chop, since I bought it new in 1982. It is a good, solid boat, sleeps 4 comfortably; the full keel and shoal 3′ 9″ draft make it very stable even if rough weather. Not the fastest on the lake, but it will get up and go in all but the lightest air. Have gone to boat shows for years and always leave very satisfied with what I have. It’s just the right size: small enough to single hand, but big enough to take 4 or 5 people for a weekend or week’s cruise. See pictures on my website; click on ship icon.

MIDGET 20 / HALMAN 20 / NORDICA 20 seems possible. PEARSON ELECTRA 22 seems possible. MICMAC 26 seems absolutely choice and missing from this same list of same type of boats.

MIDGET has the best interior layouts imagineable for BLUEWATER AMBITIONS.

Bluenose 23 McVay and MicMac 26 McVay, wow. Got a hard on look at them and MIDGET too. wow. special to think 1 person in a BLUENOSE 23 ends up in the Tuamotus and has a bigger cockpit for catching Blue Trevali, light tough and fast for doldrums stall out in something like a lumbering FLICKA. BTW, FLICKA 20 is a 25′ boat, wow. Nice name though.

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Bayfield 36 review: classic marathon runner.

Certain styles never go away. There is always the lure of the pirate ships of old with their trailboards, bowsprits, and clipper bows. And at every sailor’s essence are certain pirate ideas, the romance of adventures on the high seas. The look speaks of journeys to far off lands for exciting adventures. That is what the Bayfield and now Gozzard Yachts stand for. In 1970, Ted and Hayden Gozzard started Bayfield Yachts in a yard in Bayfield, Ontario, Canada. Their first offering was a Bayfield 25. The company became synonymous with the classic, clipper bow look in Canada. They followed the Canadian innovations of C&C using balsa cored fiberglass. In 1981, Ted left the company to found his own builder, Gozzard Yachts. Hayden stayed on and in 1985 designed his first and only Bayfield, the 36. Ted continues to run Gozzard Yachts with his sons while the Bayfield factory burned down in 1988 halting production. These 36-footers have an excellent reputation in Canada, more well known than here in the USA. Her interior is arguably the largest you will find on a 36-foot sailboat. The roomy accommodations combined with her offshore sailing pedigree make her one of the best choices around in this range for a serious offshore yacht.

First Impressions Hayden stayed with Ted’s principles and look. The 36 is a fulled keeled, clipper bowed, trailboarded cruiser. From the dock, it’s interesting to compare and contrast her to the more modern 36 Gozzard that Ted has gone on to design. We have had the luck of selling both a Gozzard 36 and representing a Bayfield 36 within the last year. They have similar lines. The 36 Bayfield is really 41 feet LOA with her 5′ bowsprit as they use LOD as the model number for modesty. She is the definition of a big 36-footer. The heart shaped stern is lovely and the low freeboard sheer just enough. I can always pick out Bayfields and Gozzards by the molded cove stripe and inset name. The aluminum toerail jars with the overall classic look and lowers the maintenance threshold. The cabin trunk has 5 portholes and is traditionally low and squarish. Underneath, she has a long keel with a bronze heal and attached rudder. This design is the source of her performance skills and drawbacks. Newer Gozzards moved on to a modern cutaway forefoot and even separate rudder arrangements. The Bayfields still chose to keep the traditional underbody with the classic style. But a stout cutter has its advantages, especially in the trades.

Construction Bayfield like Gozzard today had a good reputation for building quality yachts with attention to detail. They built the 36 with standard roving mat layup and a balsa cored deck from the influence of C&C. There are plywood inserts for strength where deck gear attaches. The chainplates attach to either to the main bulkhead or to special stubs tabbed to the hull. The bulkheads are tabbed in. The ballast is a keel shaped lead insert secured by resin inside the fiberglass keel cavity. They did use a fiberglass liners with balsa core to reinforce tread areas. The hull deck joint is bulwark style fastened with 5200 and 5/16″ bolts and aircraft locking nuts on six inch centers. Cleats and stanchions fasten into the inner face of the bulwark. Chocks and cleats along the aluminum toerail are excellent for running lines. The fuel tank is aluminum. The holding and water are plastic with two for water.

On Deck Forward the chainlocker is a watertight bulkhead only accessible from deck. Bayfield 36’s did not have a windlasses originally. Owners used the chainlocker to store an anchor and probably tied the anchor off to the chock in the toerail near the bow. Most will have been upgraded to an electric windlass by now which is a safe and very worthwhile installation. The shrouds tie inboard on the outer deck edge with skinny sidedecks. The deck has molded non-skid that may be wearing thin 20 years on now. The quarterdeck steps up as you walk aft to enter the cockpit.

These are true cutters (meaning the mast is further aft than you will find on a sloop) with single spreader Isomat spars. While not commissioned with a traveler, that is an easy upgrade along the trunk cabin. A single backstay attaches neatly aft of the cockpit. The cockpit is brightened by her teak railing, lockers, and trim. A propane locker is portside of the helm. The starboardside cockpit lazarette opens for storage and underneath access to the quadrant. The steering was the ubiquitous Edson pedestal system. The helm is comfortable with a raised seat. The companionway has two louvered swing doors with a screen and inserts behind. The sill is about a foot and not bad for underway. The doors snap open, and you can insert a bottom hatch so no water goes below. The doors also snap closed to prevent rattling or unexpected opening. A keyhole in the starboard door locks the boat up.

Down Below You will not find a more accommodating interior on any 36-foot sailboat. She has 6’3″ headroom throughout with a tub shower, a feature not always found on even on 45-foot cruisers. In the saloon, the 36 Bayfield and Gozzard are much different. The Bayfield has a traditional berth forward and aft while the Gozzard has the saloon forward. There is a nice aft stateroom portside and the master stateroom forward with an offset double. The navigation station is across from the head and has a seat that folds under the Formica table. The woodwork is a symphony of light teak. Framing the salon are two half bulkheads. Paired with each partial bulkhead is an interesting carved column which doubles as a clever handle offshore.

You will notice she has a unique butterfly hatch above the saloon. This sunroof has two doors that swing up and lay open. The hatch opens up the interior in calm water, but make sure she stays closed in a foul blow. There are two hatches in the galley and another over the aft stateroom. Two hatches are forward over the master stateroom. Combined with 10 portholes in the cabintrunk, the Bayfield 36 is well ventilated and naturally lite. While storage area is plentiful, Bayfield could have done a better job of providing access to the storage. To access the storage easier, you might see new doors, enlarged existing ones, or removed drawers. In the galley, an owner pointed out you have to reach way down into the storage holes. He added side doors and levels to ease this difficulty. Underneath the starboard settee. He noted how he had to enlarge the access door. The door was cut out too deep back making it uncomfortable to reach in. He cut away another 2 inches from the paneling.

Engine A Yanmar 4 JHE 44-hp four-cylinder diesel is standard with access behind the companionway ladder and also a removable plate in the aft stateroom. For a mid to late 1980’s yacht, this Yanmar was a wonderful choice and is probably still in most of the yachts. Access could be better. The engine room is underneath the cockpit and not too accessible from the back and sides. The starboardside combing folds up for access but mostly to the steering behind the engine. Re-powering one would not be too hard with the large companionway and easy front and top access.

Underway The Bayfield 36 and her cousins will not win you any races. The 36 is a heavy cruiser meant to go offshore. Owners readily admit she is not the best in light winds. But when it gets to 12 knots she really gets going. This is not a fault but simply what she was meant to do like a marathon runner versus a greyhound. Sven Donaldson’s excellent review says, “While by no means an ocean grey-hound, this boat will surprise a few sailors with its legs. The key, of course, is plenty of sail area (870 square feet in the three working sails), sail area that really comes into its own on reaching courses.” Her sailing ability really will shine in a tough blow offshore with her cutter rig and a reefed main. The main is handled by two sheets instead of a traveler. While some owners like this arrangement, you might want to think about a traveler as an upgrade if not already installed.

Conclusion What a shame! While the economy was poor, a 1988 fire destroyed Bayfield Yachts factory. According to the owner Ernie, a Bayfield dealer, Neptune Marine, and some partners bought the molds and tried to keep going. After a couple years, they went under. Ernie says,” I have the last Bayfield 36 to hit the water, Stonecutter II. I saved it from the crusher by being the last person to have his hand up at the auction of Neptune Marine’s assets.” With some consolation, Gozzard Yachts continues the design lineage and the boat building tradition in Ontario. These Bayfield 36’s are great cruisers for the Bahamas, Caribbean, and afar. They won’t get you anywhere fast, but they sail dry and steady and hold strong in heavy weather. Typically, you’ll see them for around $100,000 on the used market.

References http://www.wind-borne.com/Bayfield%20Review.htm http://cruisingandlivingaboard.net/wiki/index.php/Bayfield_36

8 Replies to “Bayfield 36 Review: Classic Marathon Runner”

Can anyone advise me where to locate the propane bottle on a 36ft Bayfield. At present I have still the alcohol stove and would like to move to propane. DuncanMcKeeve SV Elnamea

How about in a cockpit locker?

Duncan, I am able to place a regular size (20lb.) BBQ tank in the port cockpit locker. And I carry a smaller 13 lb. for the BBQ grill on the stern rail. If you like, I could send you pics.

Thank you, yes I would love to see the pictures so perhaps I could copy your ideas.

best regards Duncan

Did you make the change, and did you have any problems with fitting a replacement stove? We’re in the market for a 36 right now, but don’t like the alcohol stove.

We have a Bayfield 36 with a propane stove. Our propane tank is in a special locker on the port side in the cockpit, vented overboard. It’s located in the alcove between the port seat and the captain’s seat, recessed into the moulded cockpit. But we ordered it during construction. Valerie. (Hey, Paul, our Bayfield 36 is going on the market! “Waegbora” . . . )

Hi Valerie: Can you let me have some details direct to my e-mail?

Paul [email protected]

I want to install a windless on my 36 any suggestion

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opinions on Bayfield 32?

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Anyone have opinions or information on Bayfield 32''s? Is it a sea worthy vessel? Is there a Bayfield owners association website? All info. is appreciated. Thanks, Ernie  

To begin with, the suitablity of a Bayfield 32 heavily depends on where and how you plan to use the boat. For example if you enjoy spending time under sail, these would not be ideal boats for use in a light air venue such as much of the southern US Atlantic Coast and areas like the Chesapeake Bay or Long Island Sound. Although I have no first hand knowledge of this, the Bayfields do have a good reputation for their build quality. While these are not my taste in boats, Bayfields seem to have a strong following. Looking at the Bayfield 32 specifically the design falls in a very funny category. While the Bayfield 32 looks very traditional, looking closely at the lines this is neither a traditional design as derived from a working watercraft. (Traditional watercraft had hullforms that were carefully modeled from long periods of evolution in boats that represented hundreds of years of experience dealing with the realities of the sea. While this design has some visually traditional cues, the hullform and rig really do not reflect traditionally watercraft typeforms.) Nor is it a truely modern design. As a result I would expect that the boat would neither have the strengths of either typeform and might also have some of the weaknesses of both typeforms. Some of this strictly reflects my own personal experiences and prejudices, but having owned boats with bowsprits, I really think that there is no excuse for a bowsprit as a part of the sailplan on any boat designed in the late 20th century. (I understand that extended anchor platforms make some sense) It is solely an affectation that comes with some pretty big price tags. To begin with most marinas charge for length including the bowsprit so you are paying to store a longer boat than you actually have the advantage of using. Bowsprits place a fair amount of weight and surface area out in front of the flotation plane. This adds to pitching and the likelihood of taking green water over the bow. If a furler jambs or you need to remove the headsail in heavy going (a far more common event than we all like to think) you are perched in a far more vulnerable position trying to wrestle with the sail and waves. Another feature of the Bayfield 32 that concerns me in a blue water boat is the design of the cockpit. The foot well is quite small and interupted by the wheel making the it seem smaller and less useable still. BUT my big criticism is with the volume of water that it can hold. The arrangement of the coamings and cubby holes are such that these boats can hold an enormous volume (weight) of water if this boat were ever pooped. There are no freeing ports in the coamings making repetative pooping all the more likely. The height of water likly to be captured in the cockpit is well above the sill of the companionway. The sill height would be more than adequate if the coamings had freeing ports but the cockpit layout is such that signifcant downflooding would be likely in a pooping situation. These boats came with two different engines. Both Yanmars. I like Yanmars a lot but the smaller two cylinder 15 hp diesels really is not up to handling a high wetted surface, high windage, 10,000 lb boat (really closer to 13000 to 14000 fully loaded.) The larger 3GM30 is probably a better choice for a boat like this. While I have not sailed a Bayfield 32, I suggest that you try to do your sail trial on a windy day. These boats have approximately 4000 lbs of ballast which is not too bad on a 10,000 lb boat. But these are shoal draft boats and shoal draft boats generally need a higher ballast ratio to get their vertical center of gravity down. The Bayfields have a very heavy rig, deck and hull and a lot of high storage areas which would suggest minimal stability when fully loaded and the Ballast ratio drops to 25% to 30%. Another issue with these boats is the keel arrangement. Although these boats are sold as a full keel boat, they have so much of the forefoot cut away, and the rudder so far forward that the are much closer to a fin keel with attached rudder(by the classic definition where a fin keel is any keel whose bottom length is 50% or less of the length of the base of the sailplan.) This set up neither offers the advantages of a full length keel (tracking ability and ease of hauling for example) nor does it offer the advantages of a fin keel, skeg hung spade rudder (lighter helm loads, better manuevering etc.), Beyond that in a properly designed fin keel boat, the rudder is generally substantially shallower than the keel. In this case the rudder is only a couple inches above the keel bottom making it very susceptable to damage in a grounding. I also think that the galley lasks adequate working surfaces for a 32 foot offshore boat but that is also a bit subjective and may reflect more about my own way of cooking vs someone elses. Respectfully, Jeff  

I'm sorry to disagree, as we have had our 1987 Bayfield 32C for over 20 years and she is an absolute beauty, she sails wonderfully and has blown away many other boats even larger than her. We sailed her for the most part on Lake Winnipeg (Canada) which is one of the 10th largest Fresh Water Lakes. Being that there were several fishermen on the lake with nets that went across large portions of the lake and were not always very well marked, we had no problem as the full keel and attached large rudder could sail or motor over these nets without a problem, as the 3 blade bronze propeller is fully protected, unlike a lot of other boats. I disagree with the "fin keel" even though you are quoting numbers due to it's cut away fore foot. We absolutely love out boat, and have just recently moved to British Columbia (Vancouver Island) in Canada and loved her so much, could not part with her on the move. It cost us quite a bit to move her, but that was ok, because we are enjoying her in another cruising ground. We do have the Yanmar 3GM30 and I do agree that they are much better than earlier models, especially when you are dealing with tides and currents on the west coast. The extended bowsprit is to accommodate a larger sail area than the earlier models (ours is 662 sq ft if rigged as a cutter) and they do sail much better. Our boat can be sailed as a cutter or a sloop as she has a hi -field lever and in big winds, the cutter rig with only the staysail up and with the 3rd reef in the main she actually is so well balanced, she sails herself! Because the galley could use a little more counter space, we have added a teak table that hinges up or down (behind the "L" settee and that adds more counterspace, and can be folded down when not in use. The beauty of the 1987 models like ours is that a the main salon table is not fixed and can fold up and away, fold down when just two or 3 of you, and fold down and across if you have 7 or more people in the main salon. I could go on and on about all the features that our particular Bayfield 32C has, like 8 opening Atkins & Hoyle ports and all screened (teak) companionway and hatches. She truly is a gem and the unfortunate thing for us now is that we have bought a Bayfield 36 in the BVI's because we wanted a little larger boat to support our expanding family. I will definitely miss our 32C as she had a draft of only 3'9" and the 36 draws 6' - so we will miss getting inand out of all the little coves that we could get into with our 32C. We had looked at the 36 and 40 for years and never dreamed that we would own one (actually the bank owns her until we sell the other one). Also even though they are the same age (1987) our 32C looks like she's brand new because she's been in fresh water for most of her life, and the 36 we bought has been in the Caribbean for a number of years, so naturally she needs a lot of TLC. I will be so sad the day that we sell our Bayfield 32C which is approaching quickly. We are in the midst of listing her for sale with great sadness, but we cannot hold on to her, as we are not able to afford both boats. If you happen to know anyone that is interested in a truly "mint" boat that has been meticulously maintained and has so many upgrades unbelievable. We truly will never ever get back what we put into this boat, and I know a lot of people say that, but truthfully, all of our friends and aquaintances from our marina that have seen our Bayfield 32C just out of interest are truly amazed, as she is in "new" conditionand they cannot believe that we are going to sell her. So, I'm sorry to disagree with your opinion of the Bayfield 32's especially the Bayfield 32C's but unlike many of you who have never owned or sailed one for a long period of time, I just had to set the record straight, and I can tell you that if this boat was not worth it to us, we certainly would not have put all that we put into her over the past 20+ years, nor would be have spent thousands of dollars to bring her to the west coast of Canada. The main reason why we didn't sell her before we went to the BVI's to see the Bayfield 36 is that we know we could never ever ever replace her. Thanks for listening. From El Amuleto 1987 Bayfield 32C- Truly "The Gem of the Island" P.S. we do have a website and an e-mail address for anyone who is interested in seeing such an amazing boat and the list of all we have on her, or if you have a Bayfield 32C and want to get some ideas - take a look at the website or e-mail us and we will send you all the information we've put together on her, which took quite a long time, I can assure you.  

elamuleto said: I'm sorry to disagree, as we have had our 1987 Bayfield 32C for over 20 years and she is an absolute beauty, she sails wonderfully and has blown away many other boats even larger than her. We sailed her for the most part on Lake Winnipeg (Canada) which is one of the 10th largest Fresh Water Lakes. Being that there were several fishermen on the lake with nets that went across large portions of the lake and were not always very well marked, we had no problem as the full keel and attached large rudder could sail or motor over these nets without a problem, as the 3 blade bronze propeller is fully protected, unlike a lot of other boats. I disagree with the "fin keel" even though you are quoting numbers due to it's cut away fore foot. We absolutely love out boat, and have just recently moved to British Columbia (Vancouver Island) in Canada and loved her so much, could not part with her on the move. It cost us quite a bit to move her, but that was ok, because we are enjoying her in another cruising ground. We do have the Yanmar 3GM30 and I do agree that they are much better than earlier models, especially when you are dealing with tides and currents on the west coast. The extended bowsprit is to accommodate a larger sail area than the earlier models (ours is 662 sq ft if rigged as a cutter) and they do sail much better. Our boat can be sailed as a cutter or a sloop as she has a hi -field lever and in big winds, the cutter rig with only the staysail up and with the 3rd reef in the main she actually is so well balanced, she sails herself! Because the galley could use a little more counter space, we have added a teak table that hinges up or down (behind the "L" settee and that adds more counterspace, and can be folded down when not in use. The beauty of the 1987 models like ours is that a the main salon table is not fixed and can fold up and away, fold down when just two or 3 of you, and fold down and across if you have 7 or more people in the main salon. I could go on and on about all the features that our particular Bayfield 32C has, like 8 opening Atkins & Hoyle ports and all screened (teak) companionway and hatches. She truly is a gem and the unfortunate thing for us now is that we have bought a Bayfield 36 in the BVI's because we wanted a little larger boat to support our expanding family. I will definitely miss our 32C as she had a draft of only 3'9" and the 36 draws 6' - so we will miss getting inand out of all the little coves that we could get into with our 32C. We had looked at the 36 and 40 for years and never dreamed that we would own one (actually the bank owns her until we sell the other one). Also even though they are the same age (1987) our 32C looks like she's brand new because she's been in fresh water for most of her life, and the 36 we bought has been in the Caribbean for a number of years, so naturally she needs a lot of TLC. I will be so sad the day that we sell our Bayfield 32C which is approaching quickly. We are in the midst of listing her for sale with great sadness, but we cannot hold on to her, as we are not able to afford both boats. If you happen to know anyone that is interested in a truly "mint" boat that has been meticulously maintained and has so many upgrades unbelievable. We truly will never ever get back what we put into this boat, and I know a lot of people say that, but truthfully, all of our friends and aquaintances from our marina that have seen our Bayfield 32C just out of interest are truly amazed, as she is in "new" conditionand they cannot believe that we are going to sell her. So, I'm sorry to disagree with your opinion of the Bayfield 32's especially the Bayfield 32C's but unlike many of you who have never owned or sailed one for a long period of time, I just had to set the record straight, and I can tell you that if this boat was not worth it to us, we certainly would not have put all that we put into her over the past 20+ years, nor would be have spent thousands of dollars to bring her to the west coast of Canada. The main reason why we didn't sell her before we went to the BVI's to see the Bayfield 36 is that we know we could never ever ever replace her. Thanks for listening. From El Amuleto 1987 Bayfield 32C- Truly "The Gem of the Island" P.S. we do have a website and an e-mail address for anyone who is interested in seeing such an amazing boat and the list of all we have on her, or if you have a Bayfield 32C and want to get some ideas - take a look at the website or e-mail us and we will send you all the information we've put together on her, which took quite a long time, I can assure you. Click to expand...

What website?  

Here's my take on Bayfield's, for a number of years we had a 29 - beautiful boat but a lot of wood to take care of, she sailed well in all weather whether good or very bad and very comfortable motion in a seaway (we sail mostly in the Gulf). We sold her when we bought the Bristol, and the guy that bought her outfitted and headed out to sail around the word. Did he make it all the way? I have no idea.  

Elamuleto, don't be sorry to disagree. At least you have actual experience with the boat in question. Just a quick yahoo search turned up 3 reviews of the Bayfield 32 including one by Jack Horner, as well as a link to a Bayfield 32 refit by the fellow at Atom Voyages. I especially enjoy the article about when H.T. Gozzard was challenged to a race by a Douglas 32 owner, and he had his mast lengthened by seven feet to assure better speed in the light air on Lake Ontario. He won. Being the boss has perks. Anyway, just look around.  

I love these discussions. So many opinions all based off of years of experience and yet they can be so different. I'm looking at both a 29 and 32 (deciding between, not getting two) right now. I can't figure it out. I would have loved to see the website elamuleto talked about and I'd love to see what his 36 looks like now that there has been a few years to fix her up. The 29 is roughly 20K CDN and the 32 is around 27K CDN. They look similar in equipment. I'm going back to look at the engine now. I think the 29 will come out ahead there though.  

any pointers looking at a 32 c ?  

I've surveyed 13 32's, all had domestic plumbing gate valves instead of seacocks, The AC systems from the factory were pretty sad ... improper materials, single pole mainbreaker, improper grounding, lack of AC/DC bonding. Structurally they were sound.  

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