sailboatdata formosa 41

The Formosa 41 is a 40.91ft masthead ketch designed by William Garden and built in fiberglass by Formosa Boat Building Co. Ltd. since 1972.

It accomodates 6 people in 2 cabins plus salon..

The Formosa 41 is a heavy sailboat which is under powered. It is reasonably stable / stiff and has an excellent righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a heavy bluewater cruising boat. The fuel capacity is average. There is a good water supply range.

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FORMOSA 41 Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of FORMOSA 41. Built by Formosa Boat Building Co. Ltd. and designed by William Garden, the boat was first built in 1972. It has a hull type of Long Keel and LOA is 12.47. Its sail area/displacement ratio 13.59. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by Perkins, runs on Diesel.

FORMOSA 41 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about FORMOSA 41 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, auxillary power tank, accomodations, contributions, who designed the formosa 41.

FORMOSA 41 was designed by William Garden.

Who builds FORMOSA 41?

FORMOSA 41 is built by Formosa Boat Building Co. Ltd..

When was FORMOSA 41 first built?

FORMOSA 41 was first built in 1972.

How long is FORMOSA 41?

FORMOSA 41 is 9.75 m in length.

What is mast height on FORMOSA 41?

FORMOSA 41 has a mast height of 13.11 m.

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formosa 41' ketch need advice

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Hello I’m seeking for a good offshore vessel, capable of crossing the Atlantic, I really like Formosa 41’ ketch she seams to be a beautiful boat, but I know little about her seaworthiness, I could really use an advice. Thank you  

Feroni, I guess I can't speak to the Formosa 41 exactly, but I had an Island Trader 41. Both William Garden ketches off the same plans. THe builders in the Far East all used the same plans to make many brands. Don't know what year you are looking at, but I'd say the closer to the mid 70's the better. These were strong built boats that can take a lot of serious beating. THe hulls are extremely thick in the best places. In the thinnest point in my hull, to install a transducer I found 3/4" thick solid fiberglass. No core. My ketch sailed very well in big swells and was a comfortable ride for me and the ship's cat. THe living space was big (I am 6'3", 230) and had a nice shower. It was fun to sail. at about 16+ tons, you won't be winning any races, but racing sailboats is silly anyway. At a rough anchorage, she was always comfortable when the others were moving in the middle of the night to find a smoother ride. She carried a lot of fuel, water, and provisions. So, if you can do without all that "High Tech" BS that finds it's way onto a boat these days. And you like a traditional looking and acting sailboat, I'd say she be fine for long distance cruising without having to be a footballer or TV Chef to afford one. Cheers, paul  

Suggest you read here: http://www.sailnet.com/forums/buying-boat/11115-ct-41-a.html#post48037 My own view is that many of these boats have huge problems waiting for a new buyer to fix them. To plan to find one in good shape and quickly sail back to Europe is unlikely in my opinion. There is a reason they are priced so cheaply however pretty they look. The cheapest way and safest way to get a boat back to Europe is to ship it on Dockwise or similar freight service.  

I've read that some years of these boats had hollow wooden masts and wooden spars that could be a problem, and that many had problems with the teak deckings. I was attracted to these boats at one time.  

I read the link you gave me, to listen to those guys none of these boats are worth buying, so what should a guy like me should do if he likes an old stile boats and comfortable ones, also seaworthy? Do you guys have any ideas what make should I buy?  

I'm no expert, but if you like that type of boat, you might want to look at Hans Christian or Tayana.  

You are trying to buy a "salty looking", blue water capable boat, in good condition, for a really cheap price. While there are plenty of salty looking boats that are blue water capable...good condition and cheap price don't go together. See the blue water boat list sticky thread here: http://www.sailnet.com/forums/buyin...fshore-cruising-boat-list-january-2008-a.html Post #'s 6&8 should give you a fairly complete list of ocean going boats. Find some in your size range and take a look on yachtworld.com to see what appeals to you and what can be had within your budget.  

formosa sailboat plans does any one have rigging chart for the woodenor plans....do not have the original mast and mizzen but need specs....thanks mike  

Formosa 41 -Teak decks = rotten plywood deck core, Chainplates of very low quality "stainless" steel invariably corroded. No structural support under the mizzen mast on the ones I have seen (I can't believe they are all like that). Mainmast sits on a block of lumber apparently thrown in the keel sump. Very inconsistently built, no two are the same.  

I seem to recall that I saw somewhere that the Formosa yard was about the lowest quality of the Taiwan yards in that era.  

there were few yards and some different families making these boats. there is a lot of bad rap given to these boats--- the decks leaked-- but that isnt a big deal-- mine the decks were removed and glassed over. hans christian decks leak,also-- guess what- they , too were and are , made in taiwan. in , yes, he same yards used to build formosas and ct and hardin sea wolf. most folks donot know how to handle teak wood decking or other areas. therefore the boats got bad mouthed. there are many stories about many boats. doesnt mean the boat is bad. these boats may have flaw or two--by this time they are ironed out -- with mine-- the wrong person did refitting of the boat-- some stuff was done well and some not done well. in all older boats there are problems with chain plates, tanks, decks, what have you. they are older boats. would you pick up a 1955 chevy and expect it to get you across country-- before a restoration??? the ply wood used in the creation of these boats was phillipine mahogany. it rots easily ..like pine. is soft. is replaceable. these are good sturdy boats that can handle seas and winds. they can be had for lots of money or for little money. you can put into them a lot or a little money. when everything works, these are awesome boats. mine is 1976. my plywood core is perfect. my coach house is perfect. yeah, my windows leak--lol--- ports dont. i need chain plates-- hay, boat is 1976 built-- this is time for that in any boat. i love mine and i wouldnt hesitate to sail her anywhere.  

Last year, shortly after I decided to by another cruising boat I thought that the Formosa/CT/Mariner/Sea Wolf/ I can't think of them all type of a cool piratey looking boat was for me. I studied and studied and later decided that it was not for me. The killer wasn't the rotting cabins, it was the fact that they just don't move in light wind. The second strike is that there just isn't one with 2 nice cabins to suit a family. They also have a fairly deep draft, not much of a problem in the Pacific but a real problem in the Caribbean.  

"They also have a fairly deep draft, not much of a problem in the Pacific but a real problem in the Caribbean." IMHO other than the Bahamas and possibly the Turks and Caicos deep draft is NOT a problem in the Caribbean.  

Closer to home Hi Feroni, If you're still looking, here's a Formosa 41 which is much closer to home and it doesn't look too expensive: Formosa William Garden Ketch Boat For Sale - Rightboat.com - new & used boats for sale from the UK and Europe --FatBear  

Au Contraire, $80,000 USD is a very high asking price for one of these. Jeff  

Thanks for offer, but I think it’s a double price  

We own a Mariner 40, while very simialar in design to the Formosas and CTs, etc, however, there are some differences. Mariners were built in Japan not Taiwan, there were only 95 built in the Japaneese yard. They are narrower of beam and therefore not as much room below. We draw 5.5 feet but were able to come down the ICW from CT to FL in the Winter, ( Yes we kissed the bottom a few times) She handled many Gales at anchor with ease and when off NJ handled those seas nicely as well. We also have Wood Spars, in fact we had them surveyed before leaving on our trip, with the exception of one small area they were ingood shape after almost 40 years, we did have new speaders made. Both the main and mizzen are more than adaquatly supported. She sails ok, does not go to weather as good as some, but sailboats in general are a series of trade offs. Not to BS anyone, the wood topsides is a constant vigal, but nothing major, at least not yet. We think the Mariner 40 is a beatiful boat.  

justsusan said: Fair Winds, david-Kemah Texas Click to expand...

I would look for one that does not have the original wooden masts, original over sized rigging, and is absolutely able of passing survey. They have a lot of space, some have great teak carvings, and some have been around the world several times.  

i8 love my formosa yankee clipper. i had wanted sea tiger but that wasnt to be. i got this boat for really good price and found many bad spots. as i started to dig into them, i found the spots were not as bad as originally thought. if you like the look of a boat, dont let anyone talk you out if it--it is fixable. i am so glad i stuck to my guns and did this-- i hope you did as well. the leaky teaky yacht club group on yahoo groups is an excellent resource. smoooth sailing. donot pay more htan 30k for a decent condition one of these--and fix it to be worth double!!! there is one of these--a sea tiger-- sailing baja haha this yr--just motored by me--- these good old boats are awesome---- just do it and fix it and is gonna be fine! they can and will go anywhere. yes are deep--but is all good. if there is 7 ft water in a place in low tide--we can do it!!!! these boats look sooo goood with a bone in their teeth-- IMPRESSIVE!!!!!! a benefit to having wood box masts--they are EASILY repairable and a lot less costly than you would imagine!!!! they also dont rot easily and they donot corrode. they are sitka spruce. oops i see is a very old thread--i hope ye found yer formosa.  

I have a 1973 CT 41. As with all used boats, care and condition are critical. Main flaws that seem to be universal. If the deck leakes you will have plywood core damage-repairable if not too large. The cabin house on all but the latest ones are a thin glass skin over poor quality plywood. The mizzen mast step is not well executed and will need to be re built. The hollow wooden spars are fine if cared for. Generally a lot of boat for the money and comfortable in a chop. A bit faster than you might expect in a 28,000 fat girl. Shorten sail in a blow to keep the ride comfortable or don't if you like to hear the rigging hum and don't need sleep.  

If you don't mind, I'd be interested to know what you got for it. I guess you had an ad that still may exist? Description so I can get a better feel of what they go for in various conditions. Got any pics of it? I love looking at everyone's 41's. They're so beautiful. I have saved and categorized a slew of pics of them. I can't get enough of them. There are a few for sale around North America. A few farther away too. Most of them I see are all over the price range, from $40K to just over $100K. And with a wide range of descriptions of their conditions, which doesn't surprise me though. I know the list of serious items to look for. You did several things already on that list,,, tanks, changing to aluminum mast,,,,, rebuilding cabin top,, The other stuff is; switch teak decks to fiberglass, check engine close, wood rot, bow sprint, rudder, """electrical""".  

dennymusic said: .... Got any pics of it? I love looking at everyone's 41's. They're so beautiful. I have saved and categorized a slew of pics of them. I can't get enough of them. . Click to expand...

Thanks David. (I can't reply to your PM as I am new here and have a quota to meet first) Sorry for the delay in replying. Well I hope I can find a nice one without breaking my bank, and back. Ha. Thanks for the tips. I already know what to look out for on these boats but I didn't know about the link. I have a broker and sent her an email about this. She's under the weather right now pretty bad with her health but did say she'll get the list soon. Thank you for responding.  

Hopefully you can find a good one. Where are you located? Id you're in my neck of the woods I could go kick the tires of one with you and see if she's any good. Med  

leayteakyyachtclub is a yahoo group with all the diagrams and info you ever want to know. go there.. write an email to the group to introduce yourself. ask questions. the linky in my signature is the email address for them.  

Attachments

Wow. Beautiful boat Med. Well, as much as I have fallen in love with these 41er's, I just made a major decision change last night. I decided to go with a Vagabond 42. I need the room and that kind of layout down below because I will be living on the boat. I prefer the outside of these 41er's though. I wanted a rear cockpit really bad. It's been tough to give that up but,,,, that's boats for ya. Also, I had thought about a Vagabond 47 but I talked to an owner of one recently and I began to quickly realize that the 47 is way to big to work solo, coming in and out of the slip all the time. I hate depending on other "earthlings" for anything. Upkeep, initial purchase cost, larger boat slip fee and insurance are pretty high too. I might get a 47 when I win the lottery. And if the winnings are really big, I'll get a Formosa 41 also, just to play around in the bay with on the weekends. : ) Med, thanks for all your help and the pics too.  

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• Sailboat Guide

Island Trader 41

Island Trader 41 is a 41 ′ 0 ″ / 12.5 m monohull sailboat designed by William Garden and built by Marine Trading International (TAIWAN) starting in 1976.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Available in center and aft cockpit versions. Available as or similar to others such as: SEA WOLF 41, YANKEE CLIPPER 40/41, FORMOSA 41, and CT-41.

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