catalina 16.5 sailboat review

• Catalina 12.5 Expo
• Catalina 14.2
• Catalina 14.2 Expo

Catalina 16.5

• Catalina 22 Sport
• Catalina 22 Capri
• Catalina 275 Sport
• Catalina 315
• Catalina 355
• Catalina 385
• Catalina 425
• Catalina 445
• MAINSHEET MAGAZINE
• TRUE NORTH YACHTS

OWNER PHOTO: Watauga Lake, East Tennessee

The Catalina 16.5 boasts a big roomy cockpit, and large storage locker forward, making for ideal family outings.

The 16.5 is available in two keel designs. The Centerboard model features a powerful sailplan, balanced by the stable hull form and fiberglass centerboard and rudder. Adjustable hiking straps, tiller extension, adjustable outhaul, and sheet bag are all standard equipment.

The Keel model is perfect for storing the boat on a mooring or dock most of the season. A molded-in sealed bilge sump is included. The high aspect keel is cast lead and attached with stainless steel keel bolts.

SPECS & STANDARD EQUIPMENT

• Adjustable Hiking Straps
• Trailer Bow Eye
• Fiberglass Composite Centerboard
• Stainless Steel Standing Rigging
• Dacron Running Rigging
• Forward Storage Compartment
• Roller Furling Jib with Furler Unit, UV Protection Leach and Foot
• Five Year Gel Coast Blister Protection * (2)
• Mainsail, Dacron White
• Jib, Dacron White
• One Piece Fiberglass Hull, White
• One Piece Fiberglass Deck, White
• Molded-in Non-skid Surface
• Tiller Extension
• Boom Vang, Adjustable
• Self-Bailing Cockpit
• Adjustable Outhaul
• Barney Post with Ratchet Cam Cleat
• Anodized Mast and Boom

FIND YOUR LOCAL DEALER

Proudly owned, designed & built in america, additional resources.

• Brochure Archives
• Associations

PARTS & TECH SUPPORT

727-544-6681

7200 Bryan Dairy Rd

Largo, FL. 33777

• 604-689-7491
• ​​​​​​​1-800-270-2903

• Our Services
• AERE Docking Solutions
• VariPROP Feathering Propellers
• DECKadence Marine Flooring
• PEETZ Outdoors
• Why Specialty Yachts
• Testimonials
• 2024 Rendezvous Registration
• Thank you to our 2023 Rendezvous Sponsors
• Useful Links
• SYS Covid-19 Self Assessment Tool

Catalina 16.5

Feb 16, 2021

Phone:  ​​​​​​​1-800-270-2903

Price:  Call for Price

LOA: 17′ 2″

Location: Factory Order

The Catalina 16.5 boasts a big roomy cockpit, and large storage locker forward, making for ideal family outings.

The 16.5 is available in two keel designs. The Centerboard model features a powerful sailplan, balanced by the stable hull form and fiberglass centerboard and rudder. Adjustable hiking straps, tiller extension, adjustable outhaul, and sheet bag are all standard equipment.

The Keel model is perfect for storing the boat on a mooring or dock most of the season. A molded-in sealed bilge sump is included. The high aspect keel is cast lead and attached with stainless steel keel bolts.

Specifications for: CATALINA 16.5

• Trailer Bow Eye
• Fiberglass Composite Centerboard
• Stainless Steel Standing Rigging
• Dacron Running Rigging
• Forward Storage Compartment
• Roller Furling Jib with Furler Unit, UV Protection Leach and Foot
• Five Year Gel Coast Blister Protection * (2)
• Mainsail, Dacron White
• Jib, Dacron White
• One Piece Fiberglass Hull, White
• One Piece Fiberglass Deck, White
• Molded-in Non-skid Surface
• Tiller Extension
• Boom Vang, Adjustable
• Fiberglass Composite Kick-Up Rudder
• Self-Bailing Cockpit
• Adjustable Outhaul
• Barney Post with Ratchet Cam Cleat
• Anodized Mast and Boom

Disclaimer The Company reserves the right to make changes to the above noted vessel description and pricing without notice. This vessel is offered for sale by the Company subject to E&OE and withdrawal without notice.

Interested in this boat? We are here to help!

Toll-free: 1-800-270-2903

Phone: 604-689-7491

• Name First Last

CAPRI 16.5 (CATALINA) Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of CAPRI 16.5 (CATALINA). Built by Catalina Yachts and designed by undefined, the boat was first built in 1994. It has a hull type of Centerboard Dinghy and LOA is 4.98. Its sail area/displacement ratio 42.18. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by undefined, runs on undefined.

CAPRI 16.5 (CATALINA) has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about CAPRI 16.5 (CATALINA) and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, contributions, who builds capri 16.5 (catalina).

CAPRI 16.5 (CATALINA) is built by Catalina Yachts.

When was CAPRI 16.5 (CATALINA) first built?

CAPRI 16.5 (CATALINA) was first built in 1994.

How long is CAPRI 16.5 (CATALINA)?

CAPRI 16.5 (CATALINA) is 4.78 m in length.

Member Boats at HarborMoor

• Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email
• What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media
• Media New media New comments
• Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com
• Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale
• Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday
• Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe

pro and cons of 16.5 over 22ft catalina

• Thread starter 19jib39
• Start date Feb 14, 2016
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

pro and con of 16.5 or 18ft precision over 22ft catalina I sold my 22ft cat as I am 77 years old and still would like to sail on days not to windy,and would like some oponions on smaller boats ease of handling compared to former 22 ft.catalina would also consider a capri or catalina 16 ft thru 18 ft any info greatly appreciated ,Jib 39 out  

The biggest difference is the lack of self righting. You are the ballast, so on a gusty day, you could be rather busy.  

thanks so muchfor the info ,I thought on a gusty day might be a problem Thanks, DAVEINET.  

I should make one more comment that is more specific. My previous monohull was 17 ft and had 300 lbs concrete ballast in a stub keel. There was a small centerboard within the keel that dropped another 2 ft. the centerboard was small. It sailed up wind OK, but that centerboard and stub keel did not provide much stability. On a gusty day, you would get knocked down pretty quick. 20 mph winds was a little more than you really wanted. My current boat is larger, has more sail area, but still only has 350 lbs of ballast. I've been out in 30 mph winds and had a blast. The difference between the two boats was the fact that the swing keel on my current boat is very long - meaning fore to aft. There is only 6 inches draft difference between the two boats, but the swing keel is 3 ft deep x 2 ft fore to aft. So when you get hit by a gust, the swing keel has to plow a ton of water out of the way before the boat will heel. So while you still will eventually heel over, you have all day to react. So when you consider a smaller boat, ballast is not the only factor in stability. Somewhere I read that a Flying Scott has a weighted centerboard, but I've not been able to find out how much it weighs, but that might be something to look into.  

I had a C16.5 before buying my C22. If you capsize a 16.5 it will not lay on its side. It immediately goes turtle. It took myself and two crew a lot of effort to right it. If you are planning to single hand I would be sure to carry a waterproof VHF radio to call for help if you capsize.  

Newport Bob

Ok a little more info required. Why did you sell the cat 22? Are you specifically looking for a smaller boat or an easier boat to sail single handed or ???  

JohnShannon

Nonsuch 22 keel boat so won't capsize. Simple simple rig halyard, mainsheet, choker, and reefing lines. No standing rigging, no jib http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=3573 brochure http://www.nonsuch.org/assets/docs/ns22brochure.pdf  

There have been some people who have switched to a Com pac eclipse for easier trailer sailing. It is simpler to rig and with a tabernacle, easier to step the mast. Not really down sizing but a shift to a different style.  

If you are concerned about the boat flipping turtle, you can always fill the mast with spray foam. I did that to my Hobie, and the mast now floats.  

A non-ballasted boat will require the crew to act as ballast. Precision 165 and Precision 18 are both ballasted keel boats. The 165 uses a wing keel, and would require slightly more ramp depth to launch easily, than the Precision 18, which is ballasted shoal keel with centerboard. The P165 will probably sail more sprightly than the P18. Some people feel the P18 is more tender than other similar boats, to which I say reef early. The Precision 13, 14, 15, 16 and 185 are most commonly centerboard boats requiring crew to ballast, but the 15 and the 185 are available in a fixed ballasted keel version. If you are tired of rigging a boat, I recommend something like the P165, which only has 3 stays; less to hook up. However, the mast raising on any boat can be a chore, which gets easier with a variety of mast crutches, gin poles, or trailer cranes, or combination thereof. The smaller Com-Pac boats such as Picnic Cat and Sun Cat get much daysailer love because they are gaff rigged with simple 3 stays. A gaff rigged boat with a tabernacle hinge is easy to rig because the mast is shorter and lighter, considering the gaff holds up the peak of the sail, rather than a Bermuda/Marconi rig which requires a longer and heavier mast for tall sail area. The cat boats generally don't go to weather as well, but are great for reaches and runs. You should think about what you want out of the boat. If you just want daysails, there are many easy to rig small boats such as the West Wight Potter 15. On the other hand, if you want a usable cabin, when getting into advanced years and more limited mobility, I think a Precision 165 or WWP15 cabin may be too small and cramped. Some thought should be given to wider boats, which often have more form stability, and even with centerboards, don't require as much crew ballast.  

Brian S said: A non-ballasted boat will require the crew to act as ballast. Precision 165 and Precision 18 are both ballasted keel boats. The 165 uses a wing keel, and would require slightly more ramp depth to launch easily, than the Precision 18, which is ballasted shoal keel with centerboard. The P165 will probably sail more sprightly than the P18. Some people feel the P18 is more tender than other similar boats, to which I say reef early. The Precision 13, 14, 15, 16 and 185 are most commonly centerboard boats requiring crew to ballast, but the 15 and the 185 are available in a fixed ballasted keel version. If you are tired of rigging a boat, I recommend something like the P165, which only has 3 stays; less to hook up. However, the mast raising on any boat can be a chore, which gets easier with a variety of mast crutches, gin poles, or trailer cranes, or combination thereof. The smaller Com-Pac boats such as Picnic Cat and Sun Cat get much daysailer love because they are gaff rigged with simple 3 stays. A gaff rigged boat with a tabernacle hinge is easy to rig because the mast is shorter and lighter, considering the gaff holds up the peak of the sail, rather than a Bermuda/Marconi rig which requires a longer and heavier mast for tall sail area. The cat boats generally don't go to weather as well, but are great for reaches and runs. You should think about what you want out of the boat. If you just want daysails, there are many easy to rig small boats such as the West Wight Potter 15. On the other hand, if you want a usable cabin, when getting into advanced years and more limited mobility, I think a Precision 165 or WWP15 cabin may be too small and cramped. Some thought should be given to wider boats, which often have more form stability, and even with centerboards, don't require as much crew ballast. Click to expand

Brian S thanks for the excellent advice  

Newport Bob said: Ok a little more info required. Why did you sell the cat 22? Are you specifically looking for a smaller boat or an easier boat to sail single handed or ??? Click to expand

19jib39 said: ...so I thought a boat that weighs apx.1000 lbs.lighter would be easier to bring to dock when tieing up for the day. Click to expand

Daveinet said: Sort of, but not always. I kind of felt that way when I went from a 17ft to a 24ft. Best thing I ever did was switch to a trolling motor, which is so much easier to control that a gas engine when docking. Clicking it on and off, means you approach is so much slower, but yet tons more controlled. You can't believe the change in confidence using electric when docking. Even the rest of my family who are passive passengers have commented how much simpler using the electric is. Click to expand

While the Torqueedo is no doubt a quality piece, from a functional standpoint, the 86lbs thrust trolling motor on Ebay will perform similar to the travel 1003, and depending on the choice of batteries, will have close to double the operating time/distance. All for around 300 bucks. I'm using it on a 24 ft, and found it to be great on a 26K acre lake. Cruising around the lake for 2 days with no wind, the batt indicator never came off max. At 3 to 4 knots, you should get about 20 to 25 miles out of a charge.  

Daveinet, is that 86 pound thrust troller a 24v? I thought the max a 12v trolling motor would go is to 55 pounds, maybe 65 pounds. At least with the Minnkota motors, once you hit 70 or 80 pounds of thrust, they are 24v and require 2 batteries.  

Yes, 24 volts. 100AH batteries run around 80 bucks each, trolling motor 140 bucks on Ebay. So pretty close to 300 bucks for the setup.  

Daveinet said: While the Torqueedo is no doubt a quality piece, from a functional standpoint, the 86lbs thrust trolling motor on Ebay will perform similar to the travel 1003, and depending on the choice of batteries, will have close to double the operating time/distance. All for around 300 bucks. I'm using it on a 24 ft, and found it to be great on a 26K acre lake. Cruising around the lake for 2 days with no wind, the batt indicator never came off max. At 3 to 4 knots, you should get about 20 to 25 miles out of a charge. Click to expand

The 5 position speed switch ends up equating to mph. 1= 1 mph. 5 = 5 mph. Tested against the GPS.  

• This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…

Catalina 16.5 Fin keel

Sailboat specifications.

• Last update: 25th March 2020

Catalina 16.5's main features

Catalina 16.5's main dimensions, catalina 16.5's rig and sails, catalina 16.5's performances, catalina 16.5's auxiliary engine, catalina 16.5's accommodations and layout.

Similar sailboats that may interest you:

Great choice! Your favorites are temporarily saved for this session. Sign in to save them permanently, access them on any device, and receive relevant alerts.

• Sailboat Guide

Catalina 16.5K

Catalina 16.5K is a 16 ′ 4 ″ / 5 m monohull sailboat built by Catalina Yachts starting in 1995.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

First introduced as CAPRI 16.5. (See CAPRI 16.5 for more details.) The fin keel version was introduced a year later. See CAPRI 16.5K (CATALINA) for more details.

Embed this page on your own website by copying and pasting this code.

Discover Related Sailboats

Catalina capri 16.5k.

• About Sailboat Guide

©2024 Sea Time Tech, LLC

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.

• Forum Listing
• Marketplace
• Advanced Search
• All Topics Sailing
• Skills & Seamanship
• Learning to Sail
• SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more!

Trouble raising the main, Capri 16.5

• Add to quote

I recently acquired my first sailboat, a Capri 16.5. My experience prior included only keel boats with other people, so one person could man the tiller, pointing up wind, while one or more others could raise the main. I'm having trouble with this on my own. I point the boat up wind, but by the time I scramble to the mast the boat is blown in any other direction. The main is also difficult to raise even in the back yard with no wind. It sticks and I have to raise and lower it. This is made so much worse when the winds is coming from the beam or stern, pushing the sail into the shroud lines, usually catching the battens... I'm thinking of trying a thinner halyard, with the assumption the sail is jamming due to having a too-thick halyard. It is a little fussy. Would it be a good idea to lead the halyard back so I can raise it while manning the tiller? How would I guide the sail into the groove. I could get it started, of course, before even leaving the dock, but is there a way to self-guide the sail in? I've seen little components for this, usually on the jib, a pair of wheels that guide it in. What are those called? It there such a thing for the main? I have a lazy jack. Thanks.  

Tie the bow to the downwind side of the dock so wind will blow the boat back and make it face head-to-wind. Release the main sheet so boom can swing, then go up and raise the sail.  

Ah, that's a good idea. Just raise the sail before even leaving the dock. I was thinking of a similar technique using the anchor, but I guess there's no reason to not raise the sail before leaving. Thanks.  

Before replacing the halyards try cleaning up the mast and sail connection. Whether the sail is slugged or bolt roped or tracked, clean the areas up with acetone and then spray with Mclube Sailcoat.  

I second the lubrication idea. I melt ordinary candle wax with mineral oil (3 parts of wax, 1 part oil). Wax tends to stay on the mast a lot longer than any other lube. The oil makes it easier to apply evenly. Make sure there are no spots in the mast track that are pinching the sail. These pinch spots happen when mast track gets hit during boat trailering.  

Raising and lowering sails while underway is difficult alone without some way to control the helm. On bigger boats that would be a tillerpilot. On a smaller boat, you could try a tiller lock, or just tie it off. But, as Minne said, the better way it to pull it up at the dock.  

I bought an 18 ft. boat a few years ago and also was having trouble raising the mainsail. I had sprayed sailcote in the slot of the mast which definitely is advisable at least yearly, but still had trouble. Even though I had received some training about the boat at purchase nobody taught me (nor did my manual cover) something that finally became obvious to avoid this problem. I discovered that I did not have the mainsail sheet and the boom vang loose enough upon trying to raise the sail. It was putting too much tension downward on the boom which prevented the sail from being raised easily with the halyard. This applies also when lowering the sail.....make sure the sheet and boom vang are loose and the sail will drop easily. Good luck/enjoy your boat!  

Hi Sailguy. That's a good one. I was thinking about that today, my usual process. I think I might be tightening boom vang before raising the main. I know I keep the main shoot lose, but I bet I'm tightening that boom vang... I'll have to experiment this weekend in the back yard if the rain ever stops. Thanks!  

I tend to raise my main in the basin prior to heading past our marina's breakwater into the river. Raising it at the slip really wouldn't work for me. I also have the halyard led back to the cockpit and use a DIY device to help keep the tiller stable while I raise the sail. This method seems to work well for me.  

Attachments

A little late to the discussion; but, this may help. IF and only IF, your mainsail is made from woven dacron fabric, does NOT use plastic slugs , etc. to connect to the mast groove; but rather, the sleeve and the three-strand polyester- dacron rope thats inside the sleeve at the mainsail's luff is what fits into the mast slot/groove .............. then there is a strong possibility that the sail is OLD and the bolt rope has become severely shrunken and that dimensional change of the length of 'the rope' has caused the sleeve that covers that 'bolt rope' inside that frontal sleeve to be severely ' wrinkled '. Such wrinkling makes the luff bolt rope and sleeve 'much fatter' than what was OEM specified; plus, as a bolt rope (naturally) shrinks over time it also becomes much 'fatter'. Once this condition develops in 'bolt-rope loaded into the groove sails', they become VERY difficult to raise/lower. If so, take the sail to a sail loft and have them replace and RE-SET the bolt-rope inside that luff sleeve. This is especially true for such woven dacron sails (with a 'bolt rope') that were constructed/lofted before ~1995-2000. If no 'sleeve' and the bolt-rope is directly hand sewn to that rope .... a new sail would be cheaper than a 'repair'. If you're an addicted DIYer, and the bolt-rope is inside a 'sleeve', send me a PM on this website; and, Ill explain in detail how a DIYer should do this. I'll need a few digital pics of the sail before I can offer a definitive DIY course of action.  

• ?            
• 174.5K members

Top Contributors this Month