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Quickly compare thousands of sailboat models., 1 - draw inspiration from pre-defined use cases.

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Find the best 35 ft sailboats to cross the oceans, find the best sailboats to explore the high latitudes, compare medium size comfortable bluewater cruisers, worldwide ranking of cruiser racers, find the best 40 ft monohulls for racing, compare classic long keel production boats under 41ft, compare big catamarans for cruising around the islands, compare small catamarans for racing.

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Glacer Classic 382

Sail Calculator

Go Directly To The Sail Calculator Here

What Carl’s Sail Calculator Does:

Physicist and sailor Carl Adler developed this online Sail Calculator for comparing sailboats  and its database has grown over a number of years to almost 3000 boats. It should be one of the first places you go on the Web if you want to know the vital statistics about a sailboat, including Length Overall (LOA) , Length on the Waterline (LWL) , Displacement and Sail Area .

The Sail Calculator will also give you valuable performance numbers for any vessel in its database or any numbers you enter, including the Displacement / LWL ratio, Theoretical Limiting Hull Speed, Sail Area / Displacement ratio, Length to Beam ratio, Motion Comfort value, Capsize Screening value, sailing category and Pounds per inch immersion value .

Naval architects use these values when they design a new boat, and from them you can determine a conventional displacement hull boat’s purpose and predict its performance. Note that planing hulls, catamarans and hydrofoil vessels are not defined in the same way. Here’s what the performance numbers mean:

Displacement/LWL ratio – Heavy boats (D/L above about 300) will carry big loads but require plenty of power to drive. Light boats (D/L below about 150) are generally quicker and more responsive but are affected by loading. Most boats have moderate displacement and they compromise the conflicting virtues of the extreme designs. Contemporary racing boats often have D/L ratios well below 100.

Hull Speed – A conventional hull, which moves through the water rather than rising atop it and planing across the surface, is limited in speed by length of the waves it produces; long waves travel faster. This wave length can be calculated and the top speed of the hull predicted. Long boats make long waves.

Sail Area / Displacement ratio – The SA/D ratio is like the power/weight ratio of an automobile. A high SA/D ratio (> about 18) indicates a powerful rig, while a low ratio indicates a more docile boat.

Length / Beam ratio – A long, narrow hull with limited interior space is easier to drive than a short, fat one with plentiful capacity. Compare L/B ratios to gain insight into the purpose of the boat.

Motion Comfort value – Not as widely used as the previous numbers, the Motion Comfort value tries to predict whether a boat has a quick, motion through the waves or a slow, easy motion. Note that some people get more seasick with a slowly rolling motion than a quick, jerky one. Your mileage will vary.

Capsize Screening number – Developed after the Fastnet Race tragedy, the Capsize Screening number is a quick way to judge if a boat is seaworthy. Values below 2.0 are desirable for offshore yachts. Do not put too much faith in the exact number, as it is an approximation only.

Pounds / square inch Immersion – When you load a boat, it sinks deeper into the water. This Immersion value indicates the weight carrying capacity of a vessel.

There is also a Prop Sizing section which will calculate the optimum propeller to use on any displacement-hull boat, based on noted naval architect Dave Gerr’s formulas.

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19 Comments on “ Sail Calculator ”

I corrected it. Thanks!

S2 7.3 specs from factory brochure (visible at boatbrochure DOT com SLASH products SLASH s2-7-3-meter-brochure the free preview is pretty legible)

LWL is 18.5 not 18.73 Beam is 8.0 not 8.5 Displ is 3250 not 3373 S.A. is 255, not 261

Thank you so much for your work maintaining this web page; it is tremendously valuable resource that I refer to often!

Tom, The Colgate 26 has a sail area different from that published on your calculator. It’s listed as 338 SF per https://www.colgate26.com/specifications/

Chris, Thanks for the note; I’m glad you find the Sail Calculator useful. I’ll change the value on the database on the next update, since your source is probably more accurate. I rarely know what the sources are when a user submits data, so there are definitely errors in there. It’s possible that one of the numbers is based on the 100% foretriangle measurement and the other is with a larger jib, which could be either the working jib or a Genoa. I get this question from time to time and probably should add something to the description about it (www.tomdove/blog/sail-calculator/). –Tom

Hi Tom, thanks for Carl’s calculator alive. I have a Tayana 48 DS and from their website, I get a different sail area. 1316 sq ft vs 1048.

Regards, Chris

Hi Tom, Looking at your specs the Marieholm 26 literature does not match what is posted. There were 3 versions of this boat built with the Marieholm being the middle one. The Folkboat website shows this: loa 25.83, lwl 19.83, beam 7.17, s.a. 280 sq. ft., draft 4′, disp. 4740, ballast 2750. The 1st model was built from wood, the last (3rd) model is called the Nordic Folkboat built from fiberglas but made with lapstrack design to look like wood. It was heavier in weight than the other 2 with less s.a.. Google “Folkboats Around the World” and the info is there on the main page. Hope this helps. Like to see values once new info is inserted. Wish I could figure it myself but not sure how to. Thank you, Sam

Thanks for catching that. I’ll correct it on the next update. — Tom

The Goletta Oceanica De Biot 39 is missing a decimal point in the LWL so it is throwing off all of the calculations.

David, There’s no simple answer to that. If you enjoy sailing the boat, it’s a good one. When you put the numbers into SailCalculator, it will return some basic information that can be very useful, but note that small, lightweight boats like the American 23 are sensitive to loading. The working displacement is actually the “Light Ship” displacement plus the weight of the average crew. Try adding the weights of you and your crew in SailCalculator and see how that affects the performance numbers. The people I have known who have the American 23 like it. It looks like a nice, stable daysailer. Enjoy! — Tom

I have American sailboat 23 ft. sailboat with a displacement 3500 lbs my keel is a 1000 lbs with a beam 7ft and 11 inch just wondering how good is this boat for sailing thanks

Mark, Very interesting. I can see why the Length/Beam ratio at the waterline would be the defining characteristic for hull speed. That can be an evasive number, I think. Multis with very narrow hulls will sink deeper into the water quickly as the boat is loaded, so the LWL/BWL could change dramatically. It seems that you’d have to be careful about specifying the displacement that produces a specific LWL/BWL ratio, don’t you think? Is there an issue of one hull being submerged more than the other when the boat is under sail? This seems especially important in trimarans, which often have one hull flying and the other deeply submerged, but a long, narrow cat would have some of the same response to a breeze. Keep me posted on your thoughts. I think you’ve hit on a key element here. — Tom

Hello, I’m a mechanical engineer and experienced multihull sailor that has long thought multihulls need a better performance parameter for comparison so sales guys can’t hoodwink people! I have some graduate school education from Dr. Marshall Tulin (UCSB) who has published many works regarding high-speed displacement mode for long slender hulls for naval/military applications and I think this work is very applicable to sailing multihulls. The critical parameter as far as hull drag for catamarans is really L/B at the waterline since other parameters as far as hull form go (prismatic coefficient) are generally within a narrow range. It has the benefit of implying displacement and waterline length as well, since a heavy boat must be either fat, or long to carry the displacement. As a result, I’ve been working on a parameter that includes both sail area and L/B at the waterline for performance comparisons. The trouble is Schionning is one of the few designers that cites L/B in all of his designs but it would be an easy measurement to take dockside, when the true displacement isn’t known.

Steve, I’ve never seen that formula but would love to have it. The speed of a multihull is largely a factor of the hull shapes, and most multis are not limited by the “Displacement Hull Speed” that determines the maximum speed of most monohulls. The hulls are generally long and narrow and do not create the speed-limiting waves. There are exceptions, and I think any formula that predicts the speed of a cat or tri would have to incorporate prismatic coefficient (“sharpness”). Most boats are not speed-limited by their sail area.

I’m looking for a formula that predicts potential performance of a cruising catamaran, in teh same way that SA/D does for monohulls. I saw teh formula years ago – it uses sail area and the second power (i.e., the square) of a factor, but I don’t recall anything else. Can you help me? -Steve

Charlie, Thank you for the compliment. I enjoy running the site and meeting so many people who love sailing. Good luck on your boat search; there are many good deals on used, mid-size cruising boats available now in the U.S. because builders flooded the market with 40-footers a few years ago. Now that so many Baby Boomers have finished their lifetime sailing adventures, the boats are for sale.

I’ve just been introduced to your site by a good friend from the US. Im looking for a retirement live aboard that can take me around the world. He gave me a potted history and speaks very highly of Carl Alder in this site in general. What a great tool. I’ll be flying to the states to view some boats that otherwise wouldn’t have even been on my Radar. Thank you Tom, Thank you Carl (Thank you Harvey).

Thanks for keeping Carl’s program alive, Tom. I sent him hundreds of small boat specs over the years and found quite a few errors from other inputs that Carl tried to correct. Between his poor vision, a lot of incorrect input (especially the difference between LOD versus LOA for most people) and the vague info from boat builders it was a long process. People should have supported him with far more donations, he was a good guy. Les Hall, San Antonio

Thanks for catching that, Paul. Yes, that would be a mighty powerful boat. It appears that the displacement should have been 14,500, so I corrected that. The SA/D ratio still looks a bit high, but I don’t know what the submitter used as a source. Enjoy the site and please send any other corrections you see. — Tom

Cavalier 37, LWL=30, Sail Area to Displacement=2314.05 Cant possibly be correct Great calculator, thanks for keeping it available. Cheers

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Boat Comparison Tool

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The Sailboats Calculators below will enable you to calculate the main Sailboat Ratios, using data that you can retrieve from the Boat table or your own data.

We will be adding more calculators along the way and more in-depth explanations of how they work and what they can help you with., hopefully you will enjoy them and find them useful to search or understand the characteristics of your or any given sailboat ..

SA/D range of values

16 to 18 Heavy offshore cruisers 18 to 22 Medium cruisers 22 to 26 Inshore cruisers, racing boats 26 to 30+ Extreme racing boats

Ballast/Displacement:

A Ballast/Displacement ratio of 40 or more translates into a stiffer, more powerful boat that will be better able to stand up to the wind.

Displacement/Length:

The lower a boat’s Displacement/Length (LWL) ratio, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed.

less than 100 = Ultralight;

100-200 = Light;

200-275 = Moderate;

275-350 = Heavy;

350+ = Ultraheavy;

Comfort Ratio:

This is a ratio created by Ted Brewer as a measure of motion comfort. It provides a reasonable comparison between yachts of similar size and type. It is based on the fact that the faster the motion the more upsetting it is to the average person. Consider, though, that the typical summertime coastal cruiser will rarely encounter the wind and seas that an ocean going yacht will meet.

Numbers below 20 indicate a lightweight racing boat;

20 to 30 indicates a coastal cruiser;

30 to 40 indicates a moderate bluewater cruising boat;

40 to 50 indicates a heavy bluewater boat ;

over 50 indicates an extremely heavy bluewater boat.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam^1.33), where displacement is expressed in pounds, and length is expressed in feet.

Capsize Screening Formula (CSF):

Designed to determine if a boat has blue water capability. The CSF compares beam with displacement since excess beam contributes to capsize and heavy displacement reduces capsize vulnerability. The boat is better suited for ocean passages (vs coastal cruising) if the result of the calculation is 2.0 or less. The lower the better.

Hull Speed Calculator

Hull speed calculator is a simple calculator that determines a vessel’s hull speed based on the length of the vessel’s waterline.

Boat Speed Calculator

The boat speed calculator calculates the top speed of a boat based on the boat’s power and her displacement. If you try to understand how fast a boat can go, this calculator will help you answer that. The boat speed calculator utilizes a constant known as Crouch constant which differs based on the type of the boat.  

FOR MULTIHULLS ONLY:

Bn – bruce number:.

The Bruce Number is a power-to-weight ratio for relative speed potential for comparing two or more boats. It takes into consideration the displacement and sail area of main and jib. 100% fore-triangle only, no overlapping sails.

Chris White, “The Cruising Multihull”, (International Marine, Camden, Maine, 1997), states that a boat with a BN of less than 1.3 will be slow in light winds. A boat with a BN of 1.6 or greater is a boat that will be reefed often in offshore cruising.

Derek Harvey, “Multihulls for Cruising and Racing”, International Marine, Camden, Maine, 1991, states that a BN of 1 is generally accepted as the dividing line between so-called slow and fast multihulls.

BN = SA^0.5/(Disp. in pounds)^.333

Kelsall Sailing Performance (KSP):

Another measure of relative speed potential of a boat. It takes into consideration “reported” sail area, displacement and length at waterline. The higher the number the faster speed prediction for the boat. A cat with a number 0.6 is likely to sail 6kts in 10kts wind, a cat with a number of 0.7 is likely to sail at 7kts in 10kts wind.

KSP = (Lwl*SA÷D)^0.5*.05

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Sailing Eurybia

Two Humans and a Dog sail Mexico on a Sea Maid Ketch

Comparisons of Cruising Boats

April 28, 2015 3 Comments

In the spreadsheet below I have posted the numbers for some common cruisers and one lightweight racer. (Eurybia’s numbers are highlighted in peach.) If you don’t see your boat, you can also  look up your own numbers online . To understand the numbers better, see the bottom of the page for the formulas from Ted Brewer.

You can also download this data as a Spreadsheet of Cruising Boats  (right click and save).

Links to more performance data

If your boat isn’t in the spreadsheet below here are some other resources:

• SailBoatData.com has the numbers for many, many current and older boats.
• Sail Area look-up. This site has sail measurements for thousands of boats.
• Sail Area calculator . Once you get the measurements from the charts in Link 1, use this site to calculate the area. (.5*I *J) + (.5*P*E)
• Sail boat performance parameters. This site allows you to use your boat’s specs to calculate its performance.

Download [18.50 KB]

note: the last boat, the Dufour, is not generally considered a cruising boat but rather a racing boat. It is included for contrast.

Please credit Ted Brewer for these numbers and algorithms and much of the verbage below. His book Ted Brewer Explains Sailboat Design is well worth study.

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Thanks, I’ve been using these numbers for comparing boats too, nice to have it all in compiled for me. I can add the numbers for the Valiant 40 and other boats we consider.

Sorry to say..;. Walkirie is with a “L”… Wauquiez is with a “U” :)

Thanks for the free spell check!! I’ll fix it soon.

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Portable Sailing Tools for Tracking and Tuning Boat Speed

Practical sailor tests the speedwatch and two souped-up gps devices from velocitek..

The marine GPS receiver in its purest form is meant to answer three important questions: Where are we? What direction are we going? How fast we are going? For the philosophical navigator, the answers to the first two questions may be the most intriguing, but for the Melges 24 racer bound for the finish or the Caribbean cruiser hoping to drop anchor before sundown, the digits beside the word “knots” are much more compelling. So it should come as no surprise that a new breed of GPS devices-appealing directly to our need for speed-are making steady inroads into the sailing market.

Although the racing rules for many sailboat classes ban the use of portable GPS devices during racing they are popular training tools, and many local fleets make exceptions to allow the use of GPS. Compact, watertight, and wireless, battery-powered GPS units are particularly useful on smaller boats.

The earliest GPSs were poor tools for tracking speed. Fixes were deliberately imprecise (for the sake of national security) and they erratically averaged speed by using the distance/time formula and a breadcrumb-trail of trackpoints. By comparison, a modern GPS receivers has very precise fixes and can almost instantaneously calculate speed by monitoring the frequency shifts (Doppler shift) of the satellite signals it tracks. Just as a train whistles rising pitch can be used to calculate how fast a train is approaching the station, the frequency change in signals from GPS satellites can be used to determine how fast a boat is going. Advanced GPS chipsets in two devices reviewed for this article can calculate speed and heading solutions four times per second. This often yields results that are more accurate than can be displayed by typical sailing instruments, since these are usually limited to resolutions of 0.1 knot and 1 degree.

As any navigator knows, GPS devices calculate speed over ground (SOG) and course over ground (COG), not speed through the water, which requires a knot log to measure. Although sensors that accurately measure speed through the water, wind direction, and wind speed are standard for high-level racing, speed over ground and course over ground is sufficient for many racers. Among other things, SOG and COG can help define optimum points of sail, refine sail or hull trim, reduce skin drag or leeway, and judge the best time to tack. Combined with a magnetic compass, COG and SOG can also help quantify the effects of a cross current.

And, as we found with two of the devices tested for this article, with the right firmware and software, this GPS-based data can be displayed, logged, and later reviewed in ways that makes it useful to sailors of all levels.

What We Tested

Practical Sailor testers recently spent a week experimenting with three handheld products geared toward performance sailors. Unlike conventional portable GPS units, which have relatively small displays and deliver a wide range of navigational data, these products display relatively large digits that can be read from a distance, and the view options are limited to those that relate exclusively to speed and racing performance. Latitude and longitude are nowhere to be found until you download the data for review on a computer. In addition, the rate at which data is updated in these devices is faster than youll find in many multi-purpose GPS devices.

Two of the devices we reviewed, the SC-1 and the SpeedPuck, are made by Velocitek, a company founded by surfer and windsurfer Alec Stewart, who left Stanford Engineerings Aeronautics and Astronautics PhD program to start the business. Both devices use GPS satellite signals to monitor speed and performance. The third product, the Speedwatch, has no GPS receiver, relying instead on a tiny propeller mounted on the hull to record actual speed through the water. The data is then delivered wirelessly to a wristwatch display.

Testers also experimented for a few hours with SailClever, a relatively new smart-phone application that can be wirelessly linked (using Bluetooth) to a GPS receiver and other onboard instruments to serve as a handheld tactical computer. The product, which was still in testing at the time of this article, is reviewed separately on page 30. PS did not get the chance to evaluate the Rockbox AMPD ( www.rockcitymarine.com ) and the Nauteek ( www.nauteek.com ), two products that perform similar functions as the Velocitek SC-1. PS plans to review these products in a future article.

How We Tested

The products were evaluated based on three chief criteria-ease of installation, performance on the water, and durability. Because the SpeedPuck and SC-1 also allow racers to download data for evaluation on a computer (Windows), testers also rated them on this function.

For the installation review, testers installed the units on a 1974 ODay Javelin, an Uffa Fox design and an early ancestor of todays planing skiffs. The on-the-water evaluations took place over the course of six days, and the units were first tested independently and then together while sailing on the Javelin. Sailing speeds ranged from 1 to 9 knots. High-speed testing on a powerboat ranged between 15 and 30 knots.

Screen visibility was compared in bright sunlight, both with and without sunglasses, and at night. For battery testing, any automatic shut-off features were disabled and the units were left on until the battery signal indicated an empty battery. For the durability testing, the display components went through our usual routine for handheld electronics: Put in the oven to 140 degrees for 30 minutes, placed in a freezer at 15 degrees for four hours, subjected to five minutes of direct jet spray (approximately 45 pounds per square inch) from a garden hose, submerged 3 feet underwater for 30 minutes, and dropped on each side on a fiberglass deck from 3 feet height. All of the units passed the durability tests with flying colors. Comparison data and test results in the other areas appear on the chart on page 28.

Developed by JDC Electronics in Switzerland and distributed in the U.S. by Ocean Equipment, the Speedwatch comprises three components: A tiny propeller that mounts on the bottom of the hull in a place of clean water flow, a transmitter that needs to be mounted above the water and 12 inches from the propeller, and the watch-like display that can be worn on the wrist or leg, or mounted on the boat.

The transmitter (powered by a 9-volt battery) picks up magnetic pulses from the rotating propeller and wirelessly delivers the data to the display, where it is processed and displayed. The watch (powered by a long-life lithium battery) must be no more than 13 feet away from the small transmitter, not a problem on most small boats.

One neat feature is that the system requires no wires or holes in the boat. Testers used the removable fin (photo below) mount, which easily slides onto a small permanent mount. (Three locations were tried.) Two other mounting options are provided, and all make it fairly easy to remove the propeller when its not in use.

Anyone familiar with a digital watch can use the nine-page manual and figure out the four buttons that select the display modes. Surprisingly, this was the only device tested that had a backlight for use at night, although testers had to view the screen at an angle when using the light. Speed is displayed one of four ways: instantaneous speed, balanced speed, and the maximum and average speeds over a timed run. The balanced speed is essentially a damping feature, displaying the average speed during a user-defined interval, between 2 and 60 seconds. It also functions as a watch, stopwatch, and countdown timer with audible signals for race starts.

Unlike the other two devices tested on the water, this is the only one designed to deliver speed through the water. This ability would be very useful for getting instantaneous readouts to help gauge the effects of weight placement or sail trim. Comparing this speed data with speed over ground from GPS, you would also be able to gauge the effects of current.

However, at speeds of less than 6 knots, readings were inconsistent, at times registering less than 2 knots when the boat was clearly moving much faster (confirmed by GPS). Tests at higher speeds on the powerboat showed more consistent readings.

Bottom line: This Speed Watch is compact, easy to install and use, and its battery life far exceeds that of the two GPS-based products. However, testers concluded that the device, with several potential failure points, offered little advantage over the GPS-based devices to the average sailor.

Velocitek SC-1

Predecessor to the SpeedPuck, the Velocitek SC-1 includes the same speed and heading functions found in the SpeedPuck and adds several other functions, including velocity made good (VMG), a “tactical compass,” start timer, distance to line, and the ability to display two functions at once.

Enclosed in a rugged, watertight box with two latches, the SC-1 is heavier and bulkier than the SpeedPuck and has four buttons. These watertight capacitive touch sensors, designed to stand up to the extreme forces of a 25-plus-knot capsize, introduce unnecessary complications for the less-than-10-knot crowd. (When you have to read the manual to figure out how to turn something on and off, something is amiss.) Because the buttons can be activated by splashing water, they are programmed to lock after periods of inactivity or when a minimum speed is reached.

Briefly tempted to subject the SC-1 to more rigorous impact-resistance tests, testers instead disabled the auto-lock feature (via the Control Center software with a computer).

Once you master the button controls , the SC-1 can be put to good use on the race course. Both the tactical compass heading and the VMG functions are based on a reference wind direction that is manually programmed into the SC-1. Once the referenced wind is set, the tactical compass mode displays what is effectively the relative wind angle, while the VMG function indicates the boat speed upwind or downwind.

The distance-to-line function requires the sailor to enter marks as close as possible to the committee boat and pin-ends of the start line. Once these points are entered, the display will indicate the perpendicular distance to the start line from your boat. The distance is accurate to between .75 and 3 meters, depending on the number and location of the satellites in view at the time.

As with the SpeedPuck, the race data can be downloaded and evaluated using Speed Play or the bundled GPS Action Replay.

Bottom Line: Plan to spend some time with the manual to make the most of this unit. The more advanced racer will appreciate the VMG and distance-to-line functions, but don’t expect your crew to master the button-pushing basics without some initial cursing under their breath.

The SpeedPuck could be considered a light version of Velociteks SC-1, delivering only the most essential data to sailors who refuse to touch an owners manual. It uses the same 16-channel GPS chipset (U-blox Antaris LEA-4A) as the SC-1, but it displays only three key pieces of data: Speed (maximum or maximum 10-second average), heading, and windshifts. Round, with a screw-on back sealed with an 0-ring, the SpeedPuck is well engineered to withstand abuse. Its display is easier to read than the SC-1, and its single button is much simpler to use than the Velociteks recalcitrant touch sensors. It also has a blank-screen log mode that simply records data for later replay, useful in races that prohibit GPS aids.

Installation is fast and easy. Just stick the adhesive-backed 3M Dual Lock hook-and-loop mounting pad wherever you want to put the device. Other mounts are available. The SpeedPuck also has a wrist lanyard, but it is too big to be considered a pocket instrument.

One of the SpeedPucks key features is the way it presents heading data. As soon as you hold a compass heading for 20 seconds, it locks on that course and a single bar appears on the display, centered at the 12 oclock position. Any significant variation from that heading is indicated by additional bars to the left or right of the 12 oclock position on the puck; each bar represents three compass degrees.

While sailing, this display offers instant feedback on slight course changes, which can also help detect wind shifts. Two bars to the right (clockwise) from 12 oclock, for example, means the boat is heading 6 degrees to starboard of its original course. If it is on port tack at the time, and the tell tales are still streaming nicely, then the boat is getting headed. If we hold this new course for 20 seconds, the SpeedPuck resets, again showing a single bar at 12 oclock. This delay would be a problem when racing, but for tweaking trim and basic training, the system works well, and is easier to use than simple compass bearings.

The SpeedPuck was the testers favorite on the water. It was dead simple to set up and easy to use. A couple of times as the test boat ghosted in very light winds, the heading indicator bar disappeared for several seconds. According to the maker, sudden changes of direction or speed can have this effect.

Off the water, the testers used the free downloadable Velocitek Control Center to modify the SpeedPucks default settings. The software lets users specify compass deviation, change the rate of position logging, and alter how frequently speed and heading solutions are updated. A bundled third-party program called GPS Action Replay lets users replay and evaluate logged data, but the track data (a nearly invisible light yellow color at low speeds) is hard to interpret, and the graphics are uninspiring.

Testers also tried Velociteks more user-friendly SpeedPlay software ($49) to review and manipulate the logged data. Once it was installed, the program made it very easy to download recorded data from multiple SpeedPucks or SC-1 units and replay a race. The user can easily drag and drop marks on the plotted routes, and the track can be exported to common formats (KML and GPX) for use with charting software, or mapping tools like Google Earth.

Bottom line: Rugged, easy to install and use, the SpeedPuck is recommended for club racers and small-boat sailors looking for a fun practice tool that monitors speed. Serious racers will long for some of the advanced features of the SC-1, but for quick and easy evaluation of speed over ground, post-race evaluation, and a reasonable price, the SpeedPuck fits the bill.   

While there may be a market for the Speedwatch for kiteboarders, windsurfers, and high-speed sailors, based on our testers experience, we don’t recommend it for most sailors. So that leaves us with the Velocitek gear-or the familiar handheld GPS.

If all you need is heading, average speed, and an ego-boosting logged maximum, the basic handheld Garmin GPS units-take the aging 76CSx ($250) for example-will do this and a whole lot more. And virtually all GPSs today let you download and analyze tracks with a range of software.

So, if you need a GPS device anyway, why shell out $250 for the SpeedPuck, or almost twice that for the SC-1? The chief advantages of the Velocitek devices are cleaner designs, bigger readouts, much more rugged housings, faster updates, a dead simple interface, and some fun software to play with after a race. The firmware is designed with sailors in mind, allowing them to easily follow wind shifts, and, with the SC-1, tap into more advanced functions like the tactical compass and distance-to-line. We were also very impressed with the people in tech support, who understand the needs of sailors.

The SpeedPuck, in particular, will make a good training tool for todays young sailors, who-for better or worse -are intrigued by all things digital.

The SpeedPuck and SC-1 will give around-the-buoy sailors the ability to quickly quantify performance without spending a small fortune, but they are no replacement for wind and through-the-water speed sensors.

Ultimately, sailing involves wind and water, and without any true environmental data, the sailor must trust his senses and instincts. It goes without saying that the last two items, which cost nothing but time on the water, are still the sailors most valuable tools.

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