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THE COLLECTIVE

European Watch Company – Est. 1993

Almost Obscure: The Rolex Yacht-Master II 116689

Published by mike razak.

View all posts by Mike Razak

Rolex does not simply release watches on a whim. New models are rare, and updates to existing models are often minor, sometimes not even warranting an announcement. Regardless of timing or subtlety, everything The Crown does is met with scrutiny and drama. So, too, it was when the Yacht-Master II was released in 2007. The watch was met with mixed reactions: With an obscure complication that no one really asked for and the largest case in Rolex’s catalog, some thought it sullied the robust elegance of its forebear. Others rightfully praised its technical innovations. Fast forward more than a decade and the model seems to have won out: the Rolex Yacht-Master II 116689 seen here (and its sister references) remains in the Rolex catalog and is a favorite among those seeking a Rolex with a bit more panache and functionality than the standard Submariner.

When the original Yacht-Master was introduced in 1992, it was Rolex’s first entirely new model since the Sea-Dweller in 1967. The watch was an immediate hit with the seagoing elite, and has remained incredibly popular, with a variety of colorways and sizes released to satisfy demand.  Then, in 2007, the Yacht-Master II was released. Rolex spent over 35,000 hours designing the movement for the watch, which was designed to aid skippers in tracking the starting sequence of a regatta, including a novel integrated bezel and programmable countdown timer with memory function. Two models were part of the original release: the 116688 in solid 18kt gold with a blue ceramic bezel and the 116689 in 18kt white gold with an embossed platinum bezel.  

Design Details

At 44mm wide and 14mm thick, the Yacht-Master II features the largest production case Rolex offers. Despite its size, the watch is good to just 100m of water resistance—certainly sufficient for most aquatic adventures, but a subtle hint that Yacht-Master II is aimed at those who plan to remain aboard. The solid 18k white gold case and bracelet of the 116689 remain classic Rolex: polished throughout, with gentle curves, it gives way to the dual-finished Oyster bracelet, which features an Oysterlock clasp and Easylink 5mm extension for fine-tuned sizing. The patented Triplock crown and its guards maintain the aesthetic, with ringed chronograph pushers at its flanks. A white gold bezel—dubbed the Ring Command bezel for its added functionality—features a frosted platinum insert with embossed, polished numerals and model name. Protecting the dial is a sapphire crystal. 

Despite the watch’s functionality, Rolex has kept things extremely legible with a clean white dial. Square hour markers are applied and filled with the brand’s proprietary Chromalight lume. At 9 o’clock, the Crown logo is accompanied by the traditional Rolex dial text. At 6 o’clock, a running seconds subdial features a radial finished ring. The hands are all blued, with the hour and minute featuring lume; the minute hand has a cutout to allow for better timing legibility. In a large arc bounded by bright blue, the 10-minute regatta scale lines up perfectly with both the applied markers and the bezel. The countdown time is displayed by a bright red chronograph sweep hand and a lumed triangle minute hand.

To set the countdown timer, turn the Ring Command bezel 90 degrees counterclockwise, press the 4 o’clock pusher, and use the crown to set the desired interval (the triangle hand will snap back to 0 if pushed past 10). After rotating the bezel back, the watch’s pushers operate similarly to a normal chronograph. But Rolex has added two unique functions. When the timer is set, the initial countdown time is memorized: if the countdown is 7 minutes and needs to be restarted, stopping and resetting the timer will return it to 7 minutes. Equally impressive, the watch can be resynchronized to the official race countdown if necessary: pressing the reset pusher without stopping the timer will jump the timing hand to the nearest minute. 

Inner Workings

Powering the Rolex Yacht-Master II is the automatic Rolex 4161 caliber, based on the 4130 chronograph movement (seen in the Daytona). Comprising over 360 components, including 44 jewels, the movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and delivers a robust 72 hours of power (a number of the constituent parts are so small, they require specialized micromanufacturing mastered in-house by Rolex). The watch is further equipped with Rolex’s Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock system, together delivering exceptional antimagnetism and shock resistance. As with all modern Rolex movements, the 4161 is certified to their Superlative Chronometer standards, accurate to -2/+2 seconds per day. 

Instead of the traditional chronograph functions of its base movement, the 4161 has been retooled to allow for use as a countdown timer. In conjunction with a vertical clutch, a column wheel extends through the main plate, allowing for the programmable countdown. Additional reworking has added instantaneous re-synchronization functionality and countdown memory; and as discussed above, the bezel is coupled to the movement to allow its use as a locking mechanism for the timer (though considering the bezel part of the movement might be a stretch). All of these decidedly niche features make for one of the most complicated Rolex calibers ever made. 

Versus the Competition

Watches and regattas have been linked for quite some time, and indeed many brands sponsor teams, races, or entire series. Omega and TAG Heuer have both released limited edition America’s Cup watches featuring countdown mechanisms. Panerai makes the Luminor 1950 Regatta Chrono Flyback and Ulysse Nardin has its Marine Regatta model. Of course, sometimes only a Rolex will do, in which case one can opt for the timing function of the Daytona, the Ring Command bezel of the Sky-Dweller, or the nouveau riche appeal of the original Yacht-Master. 

Personality

While the original Yacht-Master appealed to the owners of superyachts by providing a higher-end alternative to the Submariner, the Rolex Yacht-Master II 116689 builds on that appeal with the added bona fides of regatta timing functionalities. In the white gold execution, it’s perhaps best suited to the sailing enthusiast with who enjoys the occasional regatta and may even partake in one from time to time, but also likes a splash of luxury on the wrist and isn’t afraid to let others know.  

Final Thoughts

Be it as it may an undeniable piece of luxury sailing kit, the Yacht-Master II does what only a few Rolexes do: provides both the exceptional quality the brand is known for and unique functionality. For that alone, the model is well worth a look.

See More of the Rolex Yacht-Master II 116689

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Hands-On The Rolex Yachtmaster II Regatta Timer, Ref. 116680

The rolex yacht-master ii: for those who consider themselves rolex enthusiasts, it's one of the most polarizing watches the crown produces. and yet there is more – much more – to this relative behemoth than meets the eye. we wanted to see what would happen if we met this technically unique, programmable flyback yacht timer chronograph on its own terms – read on to join us in our journey into one of the most idiosyncratically styled and mechanically sophisticated rolexes ever made..

I’m going to be completely honest: I was thoroughly prepared to have a negative reaction to this watch. Let’s face it; it’s a head-scratcher for the average Rolex/Submariner/GMT Master/Day-Date lover. First of all it’s pretty damned big. This is a 44 mm watch; it was born a 44 mm watch and it’ll die a 44 mm watch and that is nothing you or anybody else can do about it. You can have it in four different metals, and therefore, weights, ranging from steel (heavy) to gold/steel (heavier) to solid yellow gold (even heavier) to  platinum and white gold combined (Schwarzeneggerian). It has a Cerachrom bezel in an absolutely screaming shade of blue, and it says YACHT-MASTER in giant letters right across the bottom third or so just to remove any lingering shade of doubt in the minds of any small-craft skipper for leagues around that they are in the presence of, well, the Master of a Yacht; it is not an introverted watch by any stretch of the imagination.

On top of everything else, the Yacht-Master II has a complication that pretty much no watch guy or gal ever can remember what do with, or has a perceived need for: it is a regatta timer, which is about as niche a complication as you can imagine. If you get a bunch of watch nuts together there is an excellent chance that you can get a more lucid explanation out of somebody for the Equation of Time than you can for a regatta timer (which is saying something) and it says something about the relative obscurity of the complication in general, and the relative niche-ness of the Yacht-Master II in particular, that when we got it into the office we had five people who live and breathe watches sitting around scratching our heads because no one could quite remember how the darned thing works. You put all those things together and you should have a watch that a dyed-in-the-wool horological classicist should thoroughly disdain. Right?

Actually, wrong. But let’s back up a bit.

First of all this is technically a very interesting watch and it’s worth your attention just on the level of interesting horological problem solving alone. A regatta timer is used by the skipper of a yacht to determine when their vessel is allowed to cross the starting line. Sailboats can’t just hover at the starting line of a yacht race, so what happens is that the racing committee establishes a countdown period during which the boats have to tack back and forth at the starting line without actually crossing; if you cross early, there is a penalty and if you are too cautious and cross late you will probably cross the finish line behind the boats that made it over the start line ahead of you. The countdown can be anywhere from five to ten minutes depending on the rules and race.

The Yacht-Master II is a programmable, flyback regatta timer that allows you to select a countdown interval of anything from one to ten minutes; in addition if you have started the countdown early or late, you can synchronize your watch “on the fly” when you hear the second of the two audible signals which are usually given at the start of a race (the signal to start the countdown comes first, and is usually followed by a warning signal closer to the start). Here’s how it works.

To set the countdown timer, you turn the bezel (Rolex calls it the "Command Bezel") a quarter turn to the left. This locks the lower chrono pusher and engages the setting mechanism for the triangular red countdown hand. You then unscrew the crown to its first position, and set the countdown hand – setting is one-way only but at 10 minutes, if you continue to turn the crown, the countdown hand will fly back to 1 and you can continue until you reach the desired number of minutes. When you’re done, you screw the crown back down, and turn the bezel back to its starting position, and you’re ready to regatta.

When the first gun (or other audible signal) is heard, you start the countdown . . . and that’s it. Now a really neat trick here is that you may, for some reason, have started your countdown too early, or too late. If that’s the case, all you have to do is wait for the second gun/signal, and hit the re-set button – the seconds hand will fly back to the zero mark and begin running again immediately; and the minute countdown hand will fly back to the nearest minute and likewise start counting down again. It’s the fact that the flyback is to the nearest minute, not to zero, that allows you to re-synch your countdown with the official countdown time, that gives the Yacht-Master II much of its utility, and much of its technical interest.

Okay, sure it’s technically interesting – but what about the aesthetics? All I can tell you is that, much to my very pleasant surprise, it was colossally fun to wear in every sense of the word. The fact that it is so unapologetically extroverted is actually the secret to its appeal.  The weight isn't a problem (at least, not for me, and not in steel) and I found I could wear it all day without discomfort despite the overall size – partly thanks to the downward curvature of the lugs, which ensured a comfortable fit on my 7 inch wrist.  The sharply contrasting deep blued hands, white dial, and red countdown hand – and, yes, that bright blue bezel – give the whole watch a suitably jaunty, nautical feel and make it a pleasure to look at (and at night visibility is very good; the lume on the hands and dial is almost startlingly bright).

Yes, this is an extroverted watch, but the quality of execution is very clean and very high (as is usually the case with Rolex) and it’s so much the opposite of what I’d ordinarily wear that having it on gave a feeling almost like a Walter Mitty fantasy coming to life. I felt like a guy who’s worn a blue suit and rep tie and driven a four door Merc his whole life, who somehow one day finds himself in a pair of ripped jeans and a beat up flight jacket, cruising down some winding secondary road on an old shovelhead Harley, and suddenly catches himself thinking, My god, all the wasted years. Ultimately I started to feel that objecting to the over-the-top-ness  of the Yacht-Master II was silly, even narcissistic – if you go into a Joss Whedon actioner expecting a Lars Von Trier art-house tearjerker to unspool, you probably have only yourself to blame.

It is a rationally appealing uitlitarian tool watch? I'm not the one to ask. There is no way for me to evaluate what someone who actually owns a ’36 Herreshoff classic yacht and takes it on the regatta circuit would actually think of the Yacht-Master II, or whether they would find it useful. But I can tell you that it is actually a ton of fun to wear, and a big part of the reason is the very thing many object to at first – that this is a watch that pulls no punches when it comes to being larger than life.

It has that one most essential element for something to be a successful style exercise: the courage of its convictions, and if you think of yourself resolutely as a smaller-than-forty millimeter, tasteful restraint kinda guy, get one on your wrist for a surprisingly refreshing change of pace, and you can feel larger than life too.

The Rolex Yacht-Master II 116680 as shown, $18,750, 44 mm diameter case in 904L stainless steel. Bidirectional rotatable "Command Bezel" with blue Cerachrom insert; water resistance 100 meters/10 bar.

Movement, Rolex 4161 self-winding programmable flyback regatta timer with mechanical memory and "on-the-fly" synchronization; Parachrom blue antimagnetic balance spring.  

Bracelet, Oyster, flat three piece links with Oysterlock safety clasp.

More info, of course, on Rolex.com .

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Rolex Yacht-Master II Ultimate Buying Guide

There are some Rolex watches that are more or less universally loved, with a simple and versatile aesthetic that leaves little room for any sort of animosity. However, there are others within the portfolio that almost seem to have been created specifically to invite controversy, taking the brand away from its traditional design base and into more contentious territories. The Rolex Yacht-Master II collection is one of those watches.

When it arrived in the mid-2000s, the Yachtmaster II was so far removed from anything Rolex had created before that nobody seemed to know quite what to make of it. The watch was a big, bold and extremely expensive addition to the catalog, and while it was obviously slotted into the brand’s Professional Collection, it stuck out like the proverbial sore thumb. However, that was back then. Looking at the brand’s catalog today, it seems that Rolex was simply ahead of the game.

The Yacht Master II’s once challenging looks have matured, and although it is still most definitely a visually striking watch, it is no longer considered completely over the top. Mechanically, it is also incredibly impressive. On its debut, it instantly became Rolex’s most complicated watch, with a one-of-a-kind functionality aimed at about as niche a group as you could imagine. Below we have laid out a complete guide to the Rolex Yacht-Master II with everything you need to know in order to make an informed decision.

Rolex Yacht-Master II

Yacht-Master II Key Features:

– Year Introduced: 2007

– Case Size: 44mm

– Materials: Oystersteel; Everose Rolesor; 18k Yellow Gold; 18k White Gold & Platinum

– Functions: Time w/Running Seconds, Programmable Regatta Timer w/ Mechanical Memory

– Dial: White w/ Luminous Hour Markers

– Bezel: Ring Command, Blue Ceramic or Platinum Insert w/ 10-Minute Countdown Scale

– Crystal: Sapphire (Flat)

– Movement: Rolex Caliber 4161

– Water Resistance: 100 Meters / 330 Feet

– Strap/Bracelet: Oyster Bracelet

– Retail Price: $18,750 – $48,150 USD (Approx.)

For more info, visit our guide on how to use the regatta timer on the Rolex Yacht-Master II.

Rolex Yacht-Master II History

Launched in 2007, the Rolex Yacht Master II debuted some 15-years after its original Yachtmaster namesake. However, the similarities between this watch and the model that first carried the Yacht-Master name are pretty much zero.

Where the earlier model is essentially a more luxurious take on the Rolex Submariner, the Yacht-Master II is a fully-fledged item of luxury professional sailing equipment, designed from the outset to assist skippers keep track of time during the complicated starting sequence of a regatta. That technically leaves the Yacht-Master II in the tool watch category, but this is a long way from the likes of the more utilitarian Explorer II and evidence of that can be found in its release schedule.

The first versions of the Rolex Yacht Master II to be unveiled were the 18k yellow gold ref. 116688 and the even more opulent 18k white gold version fitted with a platinum bezel, the ref. 116689. Quite a bit removed from the brand’s usually conservative styling, this large, gleaming, in-your-face effort that shouted its own name across its bezel, was an immediate opinion splitter. Traditionalists were horrified, lamenting Rolex’s continued straying from its roots, while others who enjoy having their watches noticed, embraced it wholeheartedly.

The financial crash that followed in 2008 altered the landscape for watchmakers (along with everyone else) and called for more affordable pieces to come forward. The Yachtmaster II collection expanded in 2011 with the unveiling of the ref. 116681, an Everose Rolesor model with a stainless steel case and outer bracelet links paired with a winding crown, pushers, and central links in Everose gold. That was followed by the version everyone was clamoring for in 2013 – the ref. 116680 in full stainless steel, which also introduced a new caliber, the Cal. 4161, replacing the former Cal. 4160.

The only other change the watch has undergone since then occurred on its 10th anniversary in 2017, when it was given a facelift so slight that Rolex didn’t even feel it warranted a new reference number. The square hour markers at the six and 12 o’clock were changed to a rectangle and inverted triangle respectively, and the simple stick handset was swapped for the Mercedes type to bring them in-line with much of the rest of the brand’s Professional Collection.

How Much Is A Rolex Yacht-Master II?

When the Rolex Yacht-Master II first arrived, the combination of its exclusively precious metal construction and the extraordinary engineering going on inside its movement meant that it was among the most expensive offerings in Rolex’s catalog . This left many admirers priced out of the picture, but the introduction of stainless steel and two-tone references would soon open the Yacht-Master II up to a much wider range of buyers.

The Rolesor model from 2011 sacrificed some of that wall-to-wall gold for 904L stainless steel and more or less cut the asking price in half, while the full steel version dropped the retail price even further. Today, brand-new examples vary from $18,750 for the full stainless steel model up to $48,150 for the white gold and platinum version. But what about pre-owned prices?

The rather love-it-or-hate-it visuals of the Rolex Yacht Master II means that it doesn’t attract quite the same level of universal frenzy as the Daytona or Submariner. It is not completely out of the question for an authorized retailer to even have a model or two in stock, which isn’t something that can be said about the vast majority of the brand’s other sports watches. For that reason, pre-owned models do command a bit of a premium, but nowhere near as much as some of the other models in the brand’s catalog.

You can expect to pay a minimum of around $18,000 for an unworn steel piece on the secondary market, while the Everose Rolesor edition comes in closer to about $25,000. The 18k yellow gold ref. 116688 also holds pretty steady, with most examples falling somewhere in the $40,000 to $45,000 range, depending on age and overall condition. Finally, the ref. 116689 – the top-of-the-line model in white gold and platinum, is where the biggest discounts can be found. A brand-new example costs $48,150 at an authorized dealer, but an older example on the pre-owned market can often be found for just under $30,000.

Rolex Yacht-Master II Design

The Yacht-Master II is arguably the least “Rolex-looking” Rolex watch ever made, which is the core reason behind why it ruffled so many feathers among purist collectors upon its release. It’s arrival took the brand down previously unexplored experimental paths, a very far cry from the sort of discreetly restrained icons present throughout the rest of its portfolio.

The Yacht-Master II is a hard-working watch with a lot of information to present and as a result, it has what initially looks like somewhat of a cluttered dial. However, a lot of that is down to a trick of the eye concerning the bezel’s 1-10 numerals being mirrored exactly around the horseshoe-shaped track on the face. This is obviously the regatta countdown scale, designed to help yacht skippers synchronize their boats’ movements with the race’s starting gun (we’ll get onto this more a little later).

What it means for the overall styling is a lot of numbers on the watch that you will not be using for the vast majority of the time you are wearing it. But while it may come across as a little jam-packed – particularly when you add in the chronograph hand, arrowhead countdown pointer, and a small running seconds sub-dial at the bottom – once you get used to it, you can’t help but be impressed with how much Rolex’s technicians have achieved with so little. No, it isn’t exactly the Explorer’s 3/6/9 arrangement, but it is perfectly readable with a little familiarity and conveys the information it provides in a clean and legible manner.

Despite only containing four models (all of which have white dials), the series actually covers a good range of tastes. The ref. 116688 could be in the running for most showy standard-production Rolex currently available, its all-yellow gold case somehow making the bright blue bezel pop even more. At the other end, the white gold and platinum ref. 116689 is as low-key and reserved as a 44mm wide, 14mm thick, highly-complicated, solid-gold sports watch can be. The virtual monochrome is lifted only by the red chrono hand and arrowed pointer.

In-between, the stainless steel and Everose Rolesor models do the job of appealing to more middle-of-the-road palates. Their color combinations, along with the mix of brushed and polished elements on the watch itself, keep it all on the right side of overdone, and the two-tone model’s bezel numerals also being filled in Everose gold is a nice touch. Unlikely to ever be described as subtle, any version of the Rolex Yacht-Master II is guaranteed to receive some attention.

Rolex Yacht-Master II Functions

Looks aside, the big talking point around the Rolex Yacht Master II lies in what it can do. There is a strong argument against calling the watch a genuine chronograph as it doesn’t so much keep track of elapsed time in the traditional sense, as it does count backwards from a specific starting point, up to a maximum of 10-minutes.

How is that useful? It is all down to how a professional regatta gets underway. Due to the nature of wind and water, it simply isn’t possible to get a bunch of yachts all lined up at a particular spot in the ocean and have them set off at the same time. Instead, the start of a race goes in stages, with each one marked by a gunshot or other audible signal. The first is usually sounded 10-minutes before the start (although it can also be seven or even five), and the skippers must maneuver their boats back and forth in front of the line without crossing it, jockeying with the other competitors for prime position.

There follows two further preparatory signals at precise intervals, and crews must coordinate their approach so they are as close to the start point as possible at the exact moment the race officially begins. It is that pair of additional signals that call into action one of the party tricks of the Yacht-Master II’s unique complication. Should the watch fall out of sync with the regatta reference clock for any reason, a press of the lower pusher activates the flyback (or fly-forward) function, snapping the chronograph hand to the nearest minute to allow the two timers to match up again. Even more notably, it is the only mechanical watch in the world with a programmable memory, meaning the wearer can reset back to the specified original countdown point at any time.

Giving access to all this engineering virtuosity is what Rolex has dubbed its Ring Command Bezel. This was the first appearance of the concept, with the second generation taking control of the Sky-Dweller’s myriad of functions a few years later. On both models, the bezel is directly linked to the internal movement, and on the Yacht-Master II, it acts as an analogue on/off switch. Rotating it 90° unlocks the functionality and allows for the countdown timer to be set with the crown. Turning it back again locks everything in place, and engages the memory. The watch is then operated as a standard chronograph, with the top pusher activating the starts and stops, and the bottom taking charge of the reset or flyback/fly-forward functions.

For a manufacturer not renowned for the complexity of its watches (quite the opposite, in fact) Rolex’s regatta timer is a seriously impressive performer. It may have been created for an especially select group, but it is truly surprising how useful it can be to count down accurately from 10-minutes, even for those of us who may not own a yacht – particularly if you like your pasta al dente.

Rolex Yacht-Master II Movement

The first run of the Rolex Yacht-Master II was powered by the in-house Caliber 4160. At the time, it was the most component-heavy movement the brand had ever created, but it was essentially a heavily reworked version of the Cal. 4130 from the Daytona. The column wheel, vertical clutch and ball-bearing rotor were all carried over from the brand’s legendary racing chronograph.

Obviously there is nothing wrong with that, and the Rolex Daytona’s movement remains one of the most reliable and accurate mass-produced chronograph calibers of the modern era. However, with the arrival of the long-awaited stainless steel Yacht-Master II in 2013, Rolex also unveiled a new mechanism, the Caliber 4161, the product of additional refinements and some 35,000 hours of development.

Made up of over 360 components, including those produced via a highly specialized fabrication process called UV-LiGA which uses ultraviolet light to build microstructures, this dedicated movement provided a crisper feel to the pushers and greater reliability. With that in mind, both the Cal. 4160 and the Cal. 4161 benefitted from Rolex advances such as the blue Parachrom hairspring, as well as providing users with a highly-respectable 72-hour power reserve and a 28,800vph balance frequency.

Rolex Yacht-Master II Bracelet

At the present time, all of the various Rolex Yacht-Master II models are fitted with the three-link Oyster bracelet, as befits a true sports watch. On each version, the inner links have been given a high polish to match the gleaming case, while the outer links receive a satin finish to provide a contrast against the lugs.

As for material, the bracelet is crafted from the same metal as the watch head: stainless steel, yellow gold or white gold. With the Rolesor example, the innermost links are forged from Everose gold, leaving the outer side links in 904L stainless Oystersteel. Tying it all together is the Oysterlock folding clasp, equipped with the brand’s Easylink extension system that allows for approximately 5mm of tool-free bracelet adjustment, completely on the fly and without the use of any tools.

The Yacht-Master II was something of a retaliation from Rolex against decades-worth of naysayers criticizing the brand for the lack of complicated watches in its lineup. Rolex’s rebuttal, while not the most all-encompassing in terms of looks or utility, still stands as a hugely significant piece of technical dexterity. Rolex has always produced tool watches, but as the company continues to make the transition towards being a true luxury manufacturer, the tool watches it produces also take on a more luxurious nature and the Yacht-Master II perfectly embodies this. Large and uncompromising, it is perhaps the most eccentric model Rolex has to offer – and it is always happy to take center stage.

About Paul Altieri

Paul Altieri is a vintage and pre-owned Rolex specialist, entrepreneur, and the founder and CEO of BobsWatches.com. - the largest and most trusted name in luxury watches. He is widely considered a pioneer in the industry for bringing transparency and innovation to a once-considered stagnant industry. His experience spans over 35 years and he has been published in numerous publications including Forbes, The NY Times, WatchPro, and Fortune Magazine. Paul is committed to staying up-to-date with the latest research and developments in the watch industry and e-commerce, and regularly engages with other professionals in the industry. He is a member of the IWJG, the AWCI and a graduate of the GIA. Alongside running the premier retailer of pre-owned Rolex watches, Paul is a prominent Rolex watch collector himself amassing one of the largest private collections of rare timepieces. In an interview with the WSJ lifestyle/fashion editor Christina Binkley, Paul opened his vault to display his extensive collection of vintage Rolex Submariners and Daytonas. Paul Altieri is a trusted and recognized authority in the watch industry with a proven track record of expertise, professionalism, and commitment to excellence.

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Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II Hands-On

The year is 2011 and this conversation is overheard in a Rolex boutique.

“Good morning.” “Good morning, sir, how may we help you?” “I’d like a large Rolex.” “That’d be the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II. Here you go, sir.” “I’ll take that, thank you. Bye.” “Bye!”

All images by David Bredan

The Large Rolex

For the longest time, and I’ll take the blame for this, I couldn’t see the Yacht-Master II as nothing more than  The Large Rolex . The 44mm wide Yacht-Master II was the go-to large Rolex, with a massive gap in size between it and the 40mm Sea-Dwellers, Submariners, and others. Debuted in 2007, the Yacht-Master II was followed just next year by the absolutely massive Deepsea that had the same width at 44mm but was considerably thicker, so it both appeared and wore much, much larger than the YMII, placing it far off the map for most.

The Sky-Dweller made its debut in 2012, and while it also looks and wears large, until 2017 it was exclusively available in solid gold cases, rendering it about 40% more expensive than the two-tone YMII that had already been available by 2012. I did look these things up – wouldn’t want to pose as someone who remembers all this. No wonder then, that the Yacht-Master II became The Large Rolex worn by premiership ballerinas footballers, celebrities, and… basically everyone who wanted in on the large watch craze with a Rolex, but didn’t like or couldn’t afford the Sky-Dweller. The fact that Rolex took so long and only debuted the larger, 43mm wide Sea-Dweller in 2017 is just Rolex being its usual cautious self that caused it to nearly miss the boat on the large watch trend – but that’s for another discussion.

Stars aligned and I ended up in a Rolex boutique with a camera in one hand and the Yacht-Master II in the other – welcome to watch blogger life. It was only there that I realized I should have cared about the Yacht-Master II because my goodness, it is a truly impressive piece of watchmaking. It’s the Bentley of watches: big, brash, and showy, bought by a demographic that people not part of are keen not to be associated with… But beyond all that lies a deeply impressive, well-made, uniquely cool product.

I am realizing now that it might as well just be my boredom with the Submariners and Datejusts speaking, but as I was reviewing my images on the spot on the camera’s screen (not even a larger, better display) I realized the many intricate and well-made details of the Yacht-Master II. It’s proper Rolex through and through – you’d never ever mistake the entire watch or any of its details for anything but a Rolex – but at the same time its functionality, layout, as well as its case and dial design are all refreshingly unique.

Yes, that’s what got me. The weird, piston-style pushers (that need not be screwed down), the weird, but strangely beautiful proportions of the lugs and bezel, the incredible quality of the blue ceramic bezel and its laser-etched, PVD-coated numerals, the weird arch of the dial that resembles (in my mind at least) a gauge of a submarine, and the ADD-curing tactile feel of the Ring Command bezel. These make the Yacht-Master II not only unlike any other Rolex, but unlike any other watch. How did this happen?

Whether or not Rolex had the large watch trend on its mind when designing the Yacht-Master II, we’ll never know. I have no hopes in receiving a definitive “yes, we did” or “no, we didn’t” answer from them. The Yacht-Master II was designed with a programmable fly-back regatta chronograph ( ooooh, just writing that down felt strangely satisfying ) and it was also the watch to debut Rolex’s Ring Command rotating bezel system that was later also used in the Sky-Dweller.

We’ll look at how it all works soon but for a second imagine the amount of R&D time and effort that must have gone into designing what is now called the Manufacture Rolex Calibre 4161 “with some 360 components.” What the heck, even Rolex appears to be proud of this movement as this, I believe, is the only movement they proactively communicate the exact component count of. It is known that the 4130 chronograph in the Daytona has 201 parts, but Rolex officially only ever said they managed to reduce the chronograph’s component count by 60%, without providing the total 201 count – and as far as the other movements are concerned, no exact component figure is ever shared.

Give or take the large watch trend, the Yacht-Master II is also something else: it’s Rolex’s love letter to one of its obscure, but long-standing passions, yachting. Worry not, I’ll spare you the long, teary-eyed story of all that’s exciting about yachting. That’s partly because I’ve never been on a racing yacht and partly because it’s irrelevant in this discussion – you either already are a skipper at heart, or if you’re not, my measly few words won’t get you started. Rolex has produced a number of longer videos on the topic, so if you can take 24 minutes of “uplifting-instrumental-music.mp3” and are desperate to learn more about yachting, then I suggest you watch the video above. But only then.

So, looking at it strictly as a watch, without its implications, customer base, or inspiration, what do we have with the Rolex Yacht-Master II? From my time with it, I came away with a new-found admiration for its many impressive feats starting with its mechanical engineering and ending with its countless neatly executed details. The Rolex Yacht-Master II was specifically designed for regatta yacht races where the starting procedure of the race requires each yacht to be positioned as best as possible when a given time limit expires. From what I understand this time limit before the actual start varies between 5 and 10 minutes and so skippers need a regatta timer watch with a countdown timer (i.e. a reverse chronograph) that can be programmed to count down from a pre-set time between 5 and 10 minutes. When the officials give a signal, the countdown begins, the pre-set regatta chronographs are started, and the maneuvering begins.

Shooter Files by f.d. walker

Street Photography Tips, Interaction, Travel, Guides

Apr 24 2017

City Street Guides by f.d. walker: A Street Photography Guide to Moscow, Russia

*A series of guides on shooting Street Photography in cities around the world. Find the best spots to shoot, things to capture, street walks, street tips, safety concerns, and more for cities around the world. I have personally researched, explored and shot Street Photography in every city that I create a guide for. So you can be ready to capture the streets as soon as you step outside with your camera!

At over 12 million people, Moscow is the largest city in Russia and second largest in Europe by population ( Istanbul is #1). An urban, cosmopolitan metropolis with more than enough glitz and glam to cater to the elite, but without losing its fair share of Soviet era roughness around the edges. It can be fast paced, brash, busy, and trendy like other big cities, but it has its blend of West meets Russia atmosphere and beauty that provides plenty of unique interest. The Red Square is as famous as it gets, but there’s so much more to this city, including the most beautiful subway system you’ve ever seen. It would take years to capture all of Moscow, but that means you have an endless amount of areas to discover.

So here’s a Street Photography guide so you can be ready to capture all that Moscow has to offer before you even arrive!

• Patriarch’s Pond
• Old Arbat Street
• Maroseyka Street
• Tverskoy Boulevard

Top 5 Street Spots:

1. red square.

The Red Square is the most famous square in not just Russia, but all of Eastern Europe. The name actually doesn’t come from the color of the bricks or communism, but from the name in Russian, Krásnaya, once meaning “beautiful” before its meaning changed to “red.” This large plaza is what you see on the cover of guide books and magazines for Moscow, with St. Basil’s Cathedral being the center piece next to Lenin’s Mausoleum surrounded by the Kremlin Wall. Of course, the Red Square attracts hordes of tourist due to the main attractions, but all that activity around an interesting atmosphere does provide street photo opportunities. It’s also the central square connecting to the city’s major streets, providing a good starting point to explore outward.

You’ll also find the popular pedestrian only Nikolskaya Street connecting the Red Square to Lubyanka Square. This line of expensive shops includes plenty of activity, while also leading you to another popular square. Filled with history rivaling any city, the Red Square and surrounding areas are the heart and soul of Russia.

2. Patriarch’s Ponds

Patriarch’s Ponds is one of the most exclusive neighborhoods in Moscow. Despite the name being plural, there’s only one large pond, but it’s worth a visit with your camera. It’s a popular spot for locals and expats to come relax or take a stroll around the pond. You get an interesting mix of young and old too, from young love to “babushkas” feeding pigeons. It’s a very peaceful park atmosphere in one of the nicer areas within the city center, while bringing enough activity for street photography. 

The pond is shallow and in the winter becomes a popular spot for ice-skating too. The area is also well-known for the location in the famous Russian novel, The Master and Margarita. 

3. Old Arbat (Stary Arbat)

Old Arbat is the most famous pedestrian street in Moscow, and dating back to the 15th century, also one of its oldest. Originally, it was an area of trade, but soon became the most prestigious residential area in Moscow. During the 18th century, Arbat started attracting the city’s scholars and artists, including Alexander Pushkin. Cafes lined the streets and impressive homes filled the neighborhood. Since then, New Arbat street was created as a highway in the area, while Old Arbat was paved for a 1km pedestrian only walkway.

Due to the historic buildings, famous artists that lived here, and the bohemian atmosphere, Old Arbat has become a big attraction for tourists today. Now, there’s a mix of cafes, restaurants, souvenir shops, street performers, street merchants and other attractions for visitors, and some locals, to come enjoy. It can get really busy here and there’s usually something interesting going on so it’s a good street to come walk with your camera for guaranteed life.

4. Gorky Park

One of the most famous places in Moscow is Gorky Park. The official name is Maxim Gorky’s Central Park of Culture & Leisure, which gives you an idea of what goes on here. When built, it was the first of its kind in the Soviet Union. Divided into two parts, it stretches along Moscow River. One end contains fair rides, foods stands, tennis courts, a sports club, a lake for boat rides, and more. This end brings more active life due to its number of attractions, while the other end is more relaxed, where you’ll find gardens, trees, older buildings, and an outdoor amphitheater.

Gorky Park attracts mostly locals so it’s a good spot to capture the non-tourist side of Moscow life. Muscovites come here to escape the city and unwind in a picturesque setting. The park remains alive outside of the warmer months too, especially when the lake turns into the city’s largest outdoor skating rink. I’d recommend taking the metro out here to spend at least half a day exploring the massive park’s life with your camera.

5. Maroseyka Street

Maroseyka Street is a popular area not too far from the Red Square. The long, winding street turns into Pokrovka and is lined with restaurants, cafes, bars and places to stay. It’s actually where I like to stay when I’m in Moscow due to its location and solid street photography opportunities itself. You have Kitay-gorod station near and if you keep walking southwest, you’ll get to the Red Square. But if you walk northwest, as it changes to Pokrovka, you can find a long street of activity for photography with its own interesting atmosphere.

6. Tverskoy Boulevard

Tverskoy Boulevard is the oldest and longest boulevard in Moscow, beginning at the end of Nikitsky Boulevard, and finishing at Pushkin Square, a spot to come for activity itself. The boulevard is made up of two avenues, with pedestrian walkways in-between. You’ll find grass, shrubbery, trees, benches and more walking it’s almost kilometer length. Many people come here to enjoy some relaxation, walk their dog, or just to use it to walk wherever they’re going. Its center location also provides a nice place to walk with your camera near plenty of other spots you’ll want to check out anyway.

Sample Street Walk:

For a full day of Street Photography, covering some of the best spots, you can follow this sample street walk for Moscow:

• Start your morning walking around the Red Square (1), while exploring the surrounding area, including Nikolskaya Street
• Then walk northwest to Patriarch’s Ponds (2) and slowly walk the pond and surrounding area with your camera
• Next, walk east to the Pushkin Monument and stroll down Tverskoy Boulevard (6)
• Once Tverskoy Boulevard (6) ends, it will turn into Nikitsky Boulevard. Follow this down until you get to the start of Old Arbat Street (3), across from Arbatskaya station
• After you’re done walking down Old Arbat Street (3) for more street photography, spend some time checking out Moscow’s beautiful metro stations
• To finish off the day with more street photography, get off the metro near Red Square (1) again, Maroseyka Street (5) or wherever you’re staying for the night.

3 Things I’ll Remember about Shooting in Moscow:

1. museum metro.

The Moscow metro system was the first underground railway system in the Soviet Union and today includes 203 stations across 340km of routes. The elaborate system has some of the deepest stations in the world too, with escalators that seem to go on forever. None of this is what makes it so special, though. Many of its stations feel like stepping inside a museum, making it without a doubt the most interesting and beautiful metro system I’ve been in.

When built, Stalin wanted to make the metro stations “palaces for the people” with marble, chandeliers, and grand architecture. The best part is the variety of architecture and styles used, making many of the stations a completely different experience visually. You could easily spend a whole day traveling the stations and there are even tours available for people who wish to do just that. My advice, though, would be just to buy a ticket and hop on and off at different stations, while exploring different lines. The museum-like surrounding mixed with the crowds of characters can make for a great photography experience.

Since there are so many stations, here are some of my favorites to check out:

• Novoslobodskaya
• Mayakovskaya
• Elektrozavodskaya
• Komsomolskaya
• Ploschad Revolyutsii
• Dostoyevskaya
• Prospekt Mira

2. Moscow is Big

It’s no secret that Moscow is a big city, but it can feel even bigger with how spread out much of it is. This is especially true if you compare it to cities outside of Asia. If I compared it to cities in Europe, I’d probably say only Istanbul would warrant more time to really discover the depths of this city. Most only explore around the Red Square and surrounding area, but that is such a small part of the city. Although, that central area does give you plenty to see on its own.

Fortunately, I had a good friend living in the city to show me around, but it opened up my eyes even more to how much there is to discover in Moscow. It’s a big city with a variety of atmosphere that can take you from “east” to “west” and trendy to rugged depending on where you go. I’d imagine you’d have to live here a while to really know the city.

3. Cosmopolitan Mix of East meets West

Modern skyscrapers mixed with amazing architecture, a world-class metro system with museum-like beauty, trendy fashion and chic clubs, Moscow is a rich mix of Russian culture and history in a more western cosmopolitan package. There is a push to keep the Russian culture, while also pushing forward with a modern metropolis the whole world will envy. This comes with an impressive skyline, that continues to grow, and endless modernities, but with soviet nostalgia and atmosphere mixed in for good measure.

Mixed in with this grand western cosmopolitan atmosphere, is a strong national pride in Russia. This includes their famous leader, Vladimir Putin. Maybe no other place will you see a country’s leader more often. All over, from the pricey tourist shops to the underground walkway stalls, you’ll find goods with Putin’s likeness covering them. From t-shirts to magnets to Matryoshka dolls. There’s a strong national pride that can be seen around the city, which also extends to their leader. Moscow is many things. It’s East meets West, modernizations meets Soviet era, and a whole lot more.

What To Do For a Street Photography Break?:

Eat at a stolovaya.

Stolovayas are Russian cafeterias that became popular in the Soviet days. You grab a tray and walk down the line of freshly prepared local dishes, and select whatever you want from the chefs. They’re usually inexpensive and a much better value than restaurants, while giving you the opportunity to try from a wide selection of everyday Russian food. They’re also very tasty. I always include some borsch on my tray and go from there. The places themselves are all over Moscow and usually come with Soviet-era aesthetics to complete the experience.

Street Safety Score: 7

*As always, no place is completely safe! So when I talk about safety, I’m speaking in general comparison to other places. Always take precaution, be smart, observe your surroundings and trust your instincts anywhere you go!

Being the 2nd largest city in Europe with over 12 million people, you’re going to have your dangerous areas, but for the most part, it feels safe walking around. Russia is statistically higher in crime compared to most of Europe, but this generally doesn’t apply to tourists and visitors. Around the Red Square and surrounding city center, you should feel completely safe walking around. Pick pocketing can happen, but no more than other touristic places. I always explore Moscow freely without coming across too much to worry about. It’s a spread out city, though, so of course it matters where you are. Just use basic street smarts, know where you are and Moscow shouldn’t give you a problem. 

People’s Reaction Score: 7

Moscow is fast paced, big city life, which usually means people aren’t too concerned with you, or your camera. I don’t find people notice or pay much attention to me when I’m out taking photos in Moscow. For the most part, people just go about their day. You shouldn’t get too many looks or concern. But it can depend on the area you are in. The more you stick out, the more you might get noticed with suspicions. I’ve never had any problems in Moscow, or Russia, but just be careful who you’re taking a photo of if you get out of the city center. Other than that, it’s about average for reactions. 

Street Tips:

Learn the alphabet .

Much of Moscow, including the metro system, doesn’t use english. The Russian alphabet uses letters from the Cyrillic script, which if you aren’t familiar with it and don’t know the sounds, can be hard to decipher the words. This is most important for street names and metro stops when trying to get around. It can save confusion and make it easier getting around if you learn the basic alphabet. At the very least then, you can sound out the words to see which are similar in the english conversion, which can help matching them to maps. When out shooting street photography, getting around is as important as anything. So save yourself some time and frustration by learning the Russian Alphabet.

Use the metro

While Saint-Petersburg feels very walkable for a city its size, Moscow can feel very spread out, even for its bigger size. Outside of the Red Square area, you can have plenty of walking before getting anywhere very interesting, so you’ll need to take the metro a lot if you really want to explore the city. Maps are deceiving here too, it will always be further than it looks.

Another reason it’s less walkable than Saint-Petersburg is its completely different set-up. Moscow’s streets are mostly contstructed in rings with narrow, winding streets in-between. This is common with medieval city cities that used to be confined by walls, but you usually don’t have it in a city this massive. Saint-Petersburg has a more grid-like pattern that also uses the canals to help you know your way around. When it comes to navigating on foot in Moscow, it can be more difficult, so bring a map and take the metro when needed. It’s why Moscow’s metro carries more passengers per day than the London and Paris subways combined.

Explore other areas if you have time

Moscow is really big. While most people stay around the Red Square within the Boulevard Ring, there’s so much more to the city. I covered some other spots outside of this circle, but if you really want to see the city, you’ll need time. If you do have time, some other areas I’d check out first are Zamoskvarechye, along some of the south and western Moscow.

Inspiration:

For some more inspiration, you can look through the Street Photography of Moscow photographer Artem Zhitenev  and check out 33 of my photos taken in Moscow .

Conclusion:

Moscow’s name brings a certain mystique, but once you’re there it might bring a different atmosphere than you expect. It’s big and sprawling, but beautiful in many ways. It can feel like a European capital on a grand scale, but you can definitely find its Russian side in there.

The urban sprawl of Moscow can be intimidating, but give it enough time and you’ll be rewarded with plenty to discover. All with the world’s best metro system to take you around.

I hope this guide can help you start to experience some of what Moscow contains. So grab your camera and capture all that Moscow has to offer for Street Photography!

If you still have any questions about shooting in Moscow, feel free to comment below or email me!

(I want to make these guides as valuable as possible for all of you so add any ideas on improvements, including addition requests, in the comment section!)

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Moscow Outskirts

• 1.1 Districts
• 2.1 By plane
• 2.2 By train
• 2.4 By ship
• 3 Get around
• 4.1 Cemeteries
• 4.2 Churches
• 4.3 Monasteries
• 4.4.1 Technology museums
• 4.4.2 Art museums
• 4.4.3 Estates and palaces
• 4.4.4 Nature museums
• 4.5.1 Fountains
• 5.1 Parks, gardens
• 5.3 Theatres
• 7.1 Mid-range
• 9.1 Mid-range
• 9.2 Splurge
• 10.1 Net cafes

The Moscow Outskirts include areas from Moscow 's 3rd Ring to Moscow Ring Road (MKAD).

Understand [ edit ]

Districts [ edit ].

• Moscow East areas from Shchelkovskoye shosse to Volgogradskiy prospekt
• Moscow North areas from Leningradskiy prospekt to Shchelkovskoye shosse
• Moscow South areas from Volgogradskiy prospekt to Leninskiy prospekt
• Moscow West areas from Leninskiy prospekt to Leningradskiy prospekt

Get in [ edit ]

By plane [ edit ].

All airports are out of Central Moscow. See Moscow#By_plane for more detail.

By bus [ edit ]

See Moscow#By_bus for more detail.

By ship [ edit ]

See Moscow#By_ship for more detail.

Connect [ edit ]

Wireless access is fairly common. But according to Russian laws - you need to register (usually by SMS) in order to use public Wi-Fi spots. Also there is free Wi-Fi on Moscow Metro, Moscow Central Circle, trolleybuses, trams and buses, and sometimes even on suburban trains (elektrichki).

Net cafes [ edit ]

• UNESCO World Heritage Sites
• UNESCO tag to be fixed
• Articles without Wikipedia links (via Wikidata)
• Has custom banner
• Has map markers
• Has mapframe
• Articles with dead external links
• See listing with no coordinates
• Eat listing with no coordinates
• Drink listing with no coordinates
• Sleep listing with no coordinates
• All destination articles
• Usable districts
• Usable articles
• District articles
• Has Geo parameter
• Articles with no Wikidata coords
• Pages with maps

Navigation menu

Yacht-Master

Made for sailing

The waterproof and robust qualities of this model make it the ideal watch for water sports and sailing in particular.

Exceptional legibility

Like all Rolex Professional watches, the Yacht-Master offers exceptional legibility in all circumstances, even in the dark thanks to its Chromalight display. The broad hands and hour markers in simple shapes – triangle, circle, rectangle – are filled with a luminescent material emitting a long-lasting glow.

The Yacht-Master 37 and Yacht-Master 40 are the only two models in the Rolex catalogue offered in Rolesium versions: the bezel is fashioned from platinum while the rest of the watch is in Oystersteel. These versions also harbour a turquoise- or red-lacquer seconds hand echoing the colour of the Yacht-Master inscription on the dial.

18 kt Everose gold

This exclusive 18 kt pink gold alloy – created and cast by Rolex – features a slightly stronger colour than traditional pink gold and exhibits subtle cool tones. Its sophisticated and contemporary colour resonates particularly well on watches that combine gold and Oystersteel, known as Rolesor versions (a combination of Oystersteel and gold).

Cerachrom bezel insert

The matt black monobloc Cerachrom bezel insert of the Yacht-Master is made of an extremely hard, virtually scratchproof ceramic whose colour is unaffected by ultraviolet rays, seawater or water that is chlorinated. In addition, thanks to its chemical composition, the high-tech ceramic is inert and cannot corrode. The numerals and inscriptions are moulded in the ceramic and coloured with gold or platinum using a PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) process.

Bracelets and clasps

The Yacht-Master’s 60-minute graduated bezel is made entirely from precious metals or fitted with a Cerachrom insert in high-tech ceramic.

Calibres 3235 and 2236 Superlative movements

2018 Primetime Emmy & James Beard Award Winner

In Transit: Notes from the Underground

Jun 06 2018.

Spend some time in one of Moscow’s finest museums.

Subterranean commuting might not be anyone’s idea of a good time, but even in a city packing the war-games treasures and priceless bejeweled eggs of the Kremlin Armoury and the colossal Soviet pavilions of the VDNKh , the Metro holds up as one of Moscow’s finest museums. Just avoid rush hour.

The Metro is stunning and provides an unrivaled insight into the city’s psyche, past and present, but it also happens to be the best way to get around. Moscow has Uber, and the Russian version called Yandex Taxi , but also some nasty traffic. Metro trains come around every 90 seconds or so, at a more than 99 percent on-time rate. It’s also reasonably priced, with a single ride at 55 cents (and cheaper in bulk). From history to tickets to rules — official and not — here’s what you need to know to get started.

A Brief Introduction Buying Tickets Know Before You Go (Down) Rules An Easy Tour

A Brief Introduction

Moscow’s Metro was a long time coming. Plans for rapid transit to relieve the city’s beleaguered tram system date back to the Imperial era, but a couple of wars and a revolution held up its development. Stalin revived it as part of his grand plan to modernize the Soviet Union in the 1920s and 30s. The first lines and tunnels were constructed with help from engineers from the London Underground, although Stalin’s secret police decided that they had learned too much about Moscow’s layout and had them arrested on espionage charges and deported.

The beauty of its stations (if not its trains) is well-documented, and certainly no accident. In its illustrious first phases and particularly after the Second World War, the greatest architects of Soviet era were recruited to create gleaming temples celebrating the Revolution, the USSR, and the war triumph. No two stations are exactly alike, and each of the classic showpieces has a theme. There are world-famous shrines to Futurist architecture, a celebration of electricity, tributes to individuals and regions of the former Soviet Union. Each marble slab, mosaic tile, or light fixture was placed with intent, all in service to a station’s aesthetic; each element, f rom the smallest brass ear of corn to a large blood-spattered sword on a World War II mural, is an essential part of the whole.

The Metro is a monument to the Soviet propaganda project it was intended to be when it opened in 1935 with the slogan “Building a Palace for the People”. It brought the grand interiors of Imperial Russia to ordinary Muscovites, celebrated the Soviet Union’s past achievements while promising its citizens a bright Soviet future, and of course, it was a show-piece for the world to witness the might and sophistication of life in the Soviet Union.

It may be a museum, but it’s no relic. U p to nine million people use it daily, more than the London Underground and New York Subway combined. (Along with, at one time, about 20 stray dogs that learned to commute on the Metro.)

In its 80+ year history, the Metro has expanded in phases and fits and starts, in step with the fortunes of Moscow and Russia. Now, partly in preparation for the World Cup 2018, it’s also modernizing. New trains allow passengers to walk the entire length of the train without having to change carriages. The system is becoming more visitor-friendly. (There are helpful stickers on the floor marking out the best selfie spots .) But there’s a price to modernity: it’s phasing out one of its beloved institutions, the escalator attendants. Often they are middle-aged or elderly women—“ escalator grandmas ” in news accounts—who have held the post for decades, sitting in their tiny kiosks, scolding commuters for bad escalator etiquette or even bad posture, or telling jokes . They are slated to be replaced, when at all, by members of the escalator maintenance staff.

For all its achievements, the Metro lags behind Moscow’s above-ground growth, as Russia’s capital sprawls ever outwards, generating some of the world’s worst traffic jams . But since 2011, the Metro has been in the middle of an ambitious and long-overdue enlargement; 60 new stations are opening by 2020. If all goes to plan, the 2011-2020 period will have brought 125 miles of new tracks and over 100 new stations — a 40 percent increase — the fastest and largest expansion phase in any period in the Metro’s history.

Facts: 14 lines Opening hours: 5 a.m-1 a.m. Rush hour(s): 8-10 a.m, 4-8 p.m. Single ride: 55₽ (about 85 cents) Wi-Fi network-wide

Buying Tickets

• Ticket machines have a button to switch to English.
• You can buy specific numbers of rides: 1, 2, 5, 11, 20, or 60. Hold up fingers to show how many rides you want to buy.
• There is also a 90-minute ticket , which gets you 1 trip on the metro plus an unlimited number of transfers on other transport (bus, tram, etc) within 90 minutes.
• Or, you can buy day tickets with unlimited rides: one day (218₽/ US$4), three days (415₽/US$7) or seven days (830₽/US$15). Check the rates here to stay up-to-date.
• If you’re going to be using the Metro regularly over a few days, it’s worth getting a Troika card , a contactless, refillable card you can use on all public transport. Using the Metro is cheaper with one of these: a single ride is 36₽, not 55₽. Buy them and refill them in the Metro stations, and they’re valid for 5 years, so you can keep it for next time. Or, if you have a lot of cash left on it when you leave, you can get it refunded at the Metro Service Centers at Ulitsa 1905 Goda, 25 or at Staraya Basmannaya 20, Building 1.
• You can also buy silicone bracelets and keychains with built-in transport chips that you can use as a Troika card. (A Moscow Metro Fitbit!) So far, you can only get these at the Pushkinskaya metro station Live Helpdesk and souvenir shops in the Mayakovskaya and Trubnaya metro stations. The fare is the same as for the Troika card.
• You can also use Apple Pay and Samsung Pay.

Rules, spoken and unspoken

No smoking, no drinking, no filming, no littering. Photography is allowed, although it used to be banned.

Stand to the right on the escalator. Break this rule and you risk the wrath of the legendary escalator attendants. (No shenanigans on the escalators in general.)

Get out of the way. Find an empty corner to hide in when you get off a train and need to stare at your phone. Watch out getting out of the train in general; when your train doors open, people tend to appear from nowhere or from behind ornate marble columns, walking full-speed.

Always offer your seat to elderly ladies (what are you, a monster?).

An Easy Tour

This is no Metro Marathon ( 199 stations in 20 hours ). It’s an easy tour, taking in most—though not all—of the notable stations, the bulk of it going clockwise along the Circle line, with a couple of short detours. These stations are within minutes of one another, and the whole tour should take about 1-2 hours.

Start at Mayakovskaya Metro station , at the corner of Tverskaya and Garden Ring,  Triumfalnaya Square, Moskva, Russia, 125047.

1. Mayakovskaya.  Named for Russian Futurist Movement poet Vladimir Mayakovsky and an attempt to bring to life the future he imagined in his poems. (The Futurist Movement, natch, was all about a rejecting the past and celebrating all things speed, industry, modern machines, youth, modernity.) The result: an Art Deco masterpiece that won the National Grand Prix for architecture at the New York World’s Fair in 1939. It’s all smooth, rounded shine and light, and gentle arches supported by columns of dark pink marble and stainless aircraft steel. Each of its 34 ceiling niches has a mosaic. During World War II, the station was used as an air-raid shelter and, at one point, a bunker for Stalin. He gave a subdued but rousing speech here in Nov. 6, 1941 as the Nazis bombed the city above.

Take the 3/Green line one station to:

2. Belorusskaya. Opened in 1952, named after the connected Belarussky Rail Terminal, which runs trains between Moscow and Belarus. This is a light marble affair with a white, cake-like ceiling, lined with Belorussian patterns and 12 Florentine ceiling mosaics depicting life in Belarussia when it was built.

Transfer onto the 1/Brown line. Then, one stop (clockwise) t o:

3. Novoslobodskaya.  This station was designed around the stained-glass panels, which were made in Latvia, because Alexey Dushkin, the Soviet starchitect who dreamed it up (and also designed Mayakovskaya station) couldn’t find the glass and craft locally. The stained glass is the same used for Riga’s Cathedral, and the panels feature plants, flowers, members of the Soviet intelligentsia (musician, artist, architect) and geometric shapes.

Go two stops east on the 1/Circle line to:

4. Komsomolskaya. Named after the Komsomol, or the Young Communist League, this might just be peak Stalin Metro style. Underneath the hub for three regional railways, it was intended to be a grand gateway to Moscow and is today its busiest station. It has chandeliers; a yellow ceiling with Baroque embellishments; and in the main hall, a colossal red star overlaid on golden, shimmering tiles. Designer Alexey Shchusev designed it as an homage to the speech Stalin gave at Red Square on Nov. 7, 1941, in which he invoked Russia’s illustrious military leaders as a pep talk to Soviet soldiers through the first catastrophic year of the war.   The station’s eight large mosaics are of the leaders referenced in the speech, such as Alexander Nevsky, a 13th-century prince and military commander who bested German and Swedish invading armies.

One more stop clockwise to Kurskaya station,  and change onto the 3/Blue  line, and go one stop to:

5. Baumanskaya.   Opened in 1944. Named for the Bolshevik Revolutionary Nikolai Bauman , whose monument and namesake district are aboveground here. Though he seemed like a nasty piece of work (he apparently once publicly mocked a woman he had impregnated, who later hung herself), he became a Revolutionary martyr when he was killed in 1905 in a skirmish with a monarchist, who hit him on the head with part of a steel pipe. The station is in Art Deco style with atmospherically dim lighting, and a series of bronze sculptures of soldiers and homefront heroes during the War. At one end, there is a large mosaic portrait of Lenin.

Stay on that train direction one more east to:

6. Elektrozavodskaya. As you may have guessed from the name, this station is the Metro’s tribute to all thing electrical, built in 1944 and named after a nearby lightbulb factory. It has marble bas-relief sculptures of important figures in electrical engineering, and others illustrating the Soviet Union’s war-time struggles at home. The ceiling’s recurring rows of circular lamps give the station’s main tunnel a comforting glow, and a pleasing visual effect.

Double back two stops to Kurskaya station , and change back to the 1/Circle line. Sit tight for six stations to:

7. Kiyevskaya. This was the last station on the Circle line to be built, in 1954, completed under Nikita Khrushchev’ s guidance, as a tribute to his homeland, Ukraine. Its three large station halls feature images celebrating Ukraine’s contributions to the Soviet Union and Russo-Ukrainian unity, depicting musicians, textile-working, soldiers, farmers. (One hall has frescoes, one mosaics, and the third murals.) Shortly after it was completed, Khrushchev condemned the architectural excesses and unnecessary luxury of the Stalin era, which ushered in an epoch of more austere Metro stations. According to the legend at least, he timed the policy in part to ensure no Metro station built after could outshine Kiyevskaya.

Change to the 3/Blue line and go one stop west.

8. Park Pobedy. This is the deepest station on the Metro, with one of the world’s longest escalators, at 413 feet. If you stand still, the escalator ride to the surface takes about three minutes .) Opened in 2003 at Victory Park, the station celebrates two of Russia’s great military victories. Each end has a mural by Georgian artist Zurab Tsereteli, who also designed the “ Good Defeats Evil ” statue at the UN headquarters in New York. One mural depicts the Russian generals’ victory over the French in 1812 and the other, the German surrender of 1945. The latter is particularly striking; equal parts dramatic, triumphant, and gruesome. To the side, Red Army soldiers trample Nazi flags, and if you look closely there’s some blood spatter among the detail. Still, the biggest impressions here are the marble shine of the chessboard floor pattern and the pleasingly geometric effect if you view from one end to the other.

Keep going one more stop west to:

9. Slavyansky Bulvar.  One of the Metro’s youngest stations, it opened in 2008. With far higher ceilings than many other stations—which tend to have covered central tunnels on the platforms—it has an “open-air” feel (or as close to it as you can get, one hundred feet under). It’s an homage to French architect Hector Guimard, he of the Art Nouveau entrances for the Paris M é tro, and that’s precisely what this looks like: A Moscow homage to the Paris M é tro, with an additional forest theme. A Cyrillic twist on Guimard’s Metro-style lettering over the benches, furnished with t rees and branch motifs, including creeping vines as towering lamp-posts.

Stay on the 3/Blue line and double back four stations to:

10. Arbatskaya. Its first iteration, Arbatskaya-Smolenskaya station, was damaged by German bombs in 1941. It was rebuilt in 1953, and designed to double as a bomb shelter in the event of nuclear war, although unusually for stations built in the post-war phase, this one doesn’t have a war theme. It may also be one of the system’s most elegant: Baroque, but toned down a little, with red marble floors and white ceilings with gilded bronze c handeliers.

Jump back on the 3/Blue line  in the same direction and take it one more stop:

11. Ploshchad Revolyutsii (Revolution Square). Opened in 1938, and serving Red Square and the Kremlin . Its renowned central hall has marble columns flanked by 76 bronze statues of Soviet heroes: soldiers, students, farmers, athletes, writers, parents. Some of these statues’ appendages have a yellow sheen from decades of Moscow’s commuters rubbing them for good luck. Among the most popular for a superstitious walk-by rub: the snout of a frontier guard’s dog, a soldier’s gun (where the touch of millions of human hands have tapered the gun barrel into a fine, pointy blade), a baby’s foot, and a woman’s knee. (A brass rooster also sports the telltale gold sheen, though I am told that rubbing the rooster is thought to bring bad luck. )

Now take the escalator up, and get some fresh air.

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