sailboat awning design

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Reversible Awning: Made in the Shade

Photos by Frank Lanier and courtesy of Crawford Boating Products

While everyone likes fun in the sun, theres nothing better than having it made in the shade-which is a precious commodity aboard a sailboat. At anchor, over-the-boom awnings provide both direct protection from the sun and cabin cooling by shading the deck and cabintop, significantly reducing temperatures down below. Most canvas shops can design and create custom awnings for a boat, but this route can be pricey in some markets. For those wanting to keep their cool without hiring a custom designer, other options include devising a homemade setup for next to nothing, or searching out a quality, pre-fabricated sailboat awning like the UltraShade reversible sun shade.

What We Tested

The UltraShade ($289) is a self-supporting, over-the-boom awning made by Crawford Boating Products, a small California-based company owned by brothers Andy and Tom Crawford. For support, the UltraShade employs three fiberglass tent-style poles. The awning material is TRP Ultrabounce, a lightweight nylon fabric (white on one side, black on the other) thats advertised as being UV resistant, tear resistant, waterproof, and machine washable.

Our fabric is what makes this awning unique, explained Andy Crawford. Its adapted from the motion picture-TV industry, where it is used to bounce light. With the white side up, it creates a very deep shade that is more effective at keeping an area cool than any other sunshade I have been under, and it cuts glare to a minimum. The fabric is ideal for this use because it is really tough and durable, waterproof (although when sewn, the seams will leak unless sealed), UV resistant, and very light weight.

Installing the UltraShade with the white side up reflects light and heat, while giving the cockpit glare-free shade. In cooler temps, having the black side up absorbs heat, while the white side (facing down) reflects light from underneath, providing a soft glow and warmth for evenings or rainy days.

The Field Test

Practical Sailor tested Crawfords standard-size UltraShade, which measures 9.5 feet by 8.5 feet, aboard a Union 36 sloop during a sunny summer cruise on the Chesapeake Bay. Although the standard UltraShade is designed as a small(er)-boat awning, testers reported that it would likely be a good size for most boats 20 to 35 feet long. We found the size to be adequate for the cockpit of our 36-foot test boat, however, its cockpit is admittedly smaller than some similar-sized boats of a more recent vintage and design. The UltraShade also worked well as a cover for the large butterfly hatch located in the main cabin.

Custom shapes, sizes, and lengths are available, but Crawford recommends keeping the beam measurement to 8.5 feet or less, simply because the company has never tested the fiberglass support poles in longer lengths, and hed like to make sure the awning would still be well-supported in the wind.

In tests, the well-constructed UltraShade held up well in 8 to 10 knots of breeze, and the covered-wagon shape kept rainwater from puddling as it would on a tarp. The Ultrabounce fabric is light weight and appears durable, although it is a new product, so only time will tell how its longevity compares to more well-known materials like Sunbrella and Weathermax (PS, December 2011 issue). Crawford offers no formal warranty but would consider any claims on a case-by-case basis.

The UltraShade comes with everything needed for installation except fore and aft lines, which are not provided due to the wide variances in boat lengths, tie down points, etc. The instructions are thorough and easy to follow, but even without them, setup is pretty intuitive. Once the lines were set, installing the awning took a single tester less than 5 minutes; it would be faster with two people, but solo setup is easy enough. Disassembled, the kit is compact and stores easily in the provided 6- by 30-inch cylindrical storage bag.

The UltraShade is comparable to or less than the cost of similar-sized prefabricated awnings. If the material holds up, it should serve well as a means of providing quick, easy shade.

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~ a collection of sailing adventures from Alaska to Cabo

November 12, 2017

We built this cockpit awning for our sailboat...need shade from the mexican sun, build your own sailboat cockpit awning, pvc pipes support our sun shade canopy, 5 comments:.

Very cool modification! I don't have (and cannot install) a bimini on my boat, so something like this would be of much use to me. ....another item on the to-do list. 😁 Mike www.FillingTheSails.com

Thanks Mike - Yeah try it out.. Like I said, it won't work in heavy seas. But it will keep things very shady in calm conditions..

If the Deck is too hot, it is better to choose Diy awning for your deck to keep it cool and also to protect from harmful ultraviolet rays. We can find awnings in two roof styles. One is hip roof and other is pyramid roof.

That is a practical application. And the open material should be cheaper than sunbrella. We find any shade reduces interior temperature ĝreatly. Thanks for documenting this for others.

Cruiser A/C: Design an Awning to keep your boat cool

February 1, 2016 2 Comments

So what are the characteristics needed for a great aft-of-the-mast awning?

Durability – the material is not inexpensive!
Structural stability – stays up for weeks at a time, maybe months for some cruisers so must be able to withstand normal wind storms likely in an anchorage without problems
Secure attachment to boat – probably at the mast, over the boom, the backstay and along the edges
Easy installation – needs to come down quickly in emergencies and nice if it goes up easily as well
Roomy – should enhance, not further limit your outside space – need to be able to walk under it, fill the water tanks, sit comfortably with some view, etc.
Storable – must be stored while underway and is large enough to need some forethought on storage
Light colored for optimum coolness, although a dark underside can enhance the coolness as long as the top is light to reflect light and heat
Water Resistant – should help protect the cockpit from rain storms

I looked at many awnings and decided I liked what they were doing at Shade Tree Fabric Shelters . These awnings use fiberglass tent poles which are light, strong, and break down into 2 foot lengths for easy storage. The dome shape and the flexible mounting system adds stability in winds. They make theirs from coated Dacron, but I decided that Sunbrella would be easier to work with, slightly less expensive, and probably more sun-resistant. I decided I could make my own. I looked for the tent poles at many places but ShadeTree sells these so I bought them from them. They were very helpful and got the parts to me quickly. You can also of course order the whole thing from them – from the comments I’ve read in several sailing forums they have an excellent reputation and their awnings are very robust.

But if your budget doesn’t extend to a custom awning and you are excited about sewing your own, read on. These instructions will be most useful for other monohull owners, although the method would be similar for multihulls.

Measuring Your Boat for your New Awning

Measure the longitudinal by placing one end of a measuring tape at the aft side of your mast ABOVE the sail stack. Stretch the measuring tape back to the backstay, keeping the tape approximately level with the top of the highest point of the sail stack. That is your maximum longitudinal distance . Your awning can be no longer than this mast-to-backstay distance. As you cross the topping lift while making this measurement, also make a note of the distance from the topping lift to the backstay at the height of the sail stack. You will need a slit in the awning to match this distance. Measure from the deck to the top of the sail stack . Make sure you measure to the deck, not the cabin top. You only need to be accurate to an inch or two for this measurement. Also measure the height to the top of the life line from the deck.

If, like me, you are insane enough to start this project while your boat is out of the water and the mast is in the mast yard, you will have to use some nice messy trig to compute these distances. Contact me if you really want to do this and don’t know how.

If, as you walk along your deck, the sail stack is NOT at least as tall as the tallest crew member, you may want to take your awning even higher (which will also make it shorter, longitudinally, as the backstay will hit it closer to the mast). Make sure you measure the length high enough to be convenient for walking under and yet long enough to cover the part of the cockpit or rear deck that you want covered. I suggest sketching this out both in “deck” plan and in profile as well as a cross-section. Draw in the mast, boom and sail stack height, boom length, an “x” for the backstay where it crosses the line at the top of the sail stack, and, for the profile and cross-section, a line for the height of the top lifeline. See example drawings below.

Measure the width of the boat from lifeline to lifeline every 4 or 5 feet from just abaft the mast to the end of your awning (where it hits the backstay). This distance is NOT the width of your awning material, but is the distance between the legs of the awning. Your tent poles will be every 4 or 5 feet, spread equally down the length of the awning. The variation in these widths will give you an idea about whether a rectangular awning will be sufficient, or whether you need to do some variation on rectangular. If you’re creating a foredeck awning (on a monohull) it will be a tapering triangular shape, but many abaft-the-mast awnings can be rectangular. Create a scaled Deck Plan Drawing like that shown here.

Cross-Section Drawing

Using the numbers measured above, create a third drawing at the same scale that shows a cross section of your awning design as if you were standing on the transom looking forward. Include top of sail stack, widths at the 4 or 5 locations along the longitudinal (narrowest and widest places as a minimum), and height of lifelines from deck as in the drawing at right.

Design the Awning and Test the Design

With your reference drawings in hand, go to Shadetree, Available Models . Start by looking up your proposed awning length from the “length” section above. Since my 41’ boat is narrower than many at that length (11’3” at widest), I wanted to make sure the standard model would work for me. My measured awning length on our 41’ sloop was about 230” and ShadeTree recommends 5 wands of 10 sections for this length, so that was a good starting place. I cut out a piece of graph paper that was 10 x 26” long (260”) using the same scale as my cross-section drawing. You can see this model drawn on the bottom of the Cross-Section drawing above. This represents one of the tent poles that would support the awning. The pole is going to run from about 6″-8″ below the top lifeline on one side of the boat to about 6″-8″ below the top life line on the other. When you place the sliver of paper on the cross-section drawing in this manner it will naturally curve over the width of the boat. The paper curve and the awning curve won’t be the same, but it’s a reasonable approximation. If it clears the “x” where the top of the sail stack is, then it is long enough. If it clears the sail stack by a lot, and you don’t need the extra height to walk up the side decks, bend up 26” and try the next shortest configuration. By doing this I discovered I really only needed poles of 9 sections, and indeed my last pole would only need to be 8 sections to be roughly the same height as the other poles.

Determine Finished Width

Once you know the length of the awning poles you are going to buy, you can determine the finished width of the awning. The pole will go about 6″ below the top of the life line on each side, held there by a webbing strap that traps the life line and the end of the pole. The edge of the awning should be no more than two to three feet above the life line. This gives you adequate sun protection but allows those in the cockpit visibility out and allows breeze in. So total width of the awning will be about 6′ or 7′ (3′ to 3.5′ on either side) shorter than the pole. Write down the actual difference between your awning width and your pole length. It will be used when you are calculating Adjustable Strapping length!

Order the Awning Materials

Tent poles for the awning.

Now that you know how many and what size tent poles you are going to use for your awning, you can order those from ShadeTree using the prices and specification from their Replacement Parts list. You might also want to order some snubbers from them (additional bungie cords to secure the front and rear edges of the awning to shrouds or other parts of the boat). Notice that you cannot exactly order these online, but if you tell them what you want using the Contact Us form, they will get back to you quickly by email or phone and complete your order.

How Much Sunbrella for the Awning?

Awning Panel Layout showing seam allowances

The first and last panel will be 57.5″ wide (allowing for one edge hem and one interior seam.

Each interior panel can be 58″ wide (allowing for two interior seams). Draw this out on paper.

Sunbrella can be bought at most canvas stores or at Sailrite . Choose a light color for maximum reduction of solar gain (I used Silver, which is much lighter color than it looks in Sailrite’s photos).

Sunbrella = the length of any panel times the number of panels.

How much Webbing for the Awning?

I also used webbing all the way across the outside of the awning at each pole. Shade Tree appears to just apply a female buckle to the awning, and not run webbing all the way across to the buckle on the other side. This would save you some money and work. However I wanted the webbing to strengthen the awning where the pole channel attaches to the awning. It seems like this area would have the strain of the pole channel pulling on the sunbrella material as well as the strain of the adjustable strap pulling on the Sunbrella. By placing a webbing strap on the outside of the awning the pole channel is tied to the awning with the additional strength of the webbing and also the Adjustable straps will pull against the webbing, not the Sunbrella. It can also make nice stripes across your awning if you choose a contrasting color. I call these the Pole Strapping.

Now you can calculate the amount of 2″ webbing that you will need. Add the Pole Strapping (if you are using it) to the Adjustable Strapping totals to get the complete amount. Then I urge you to buy 2″ polyester webbing, which has great strength, low stretching, and good resistance to UV. It can be a little hard to find. My local canvas and webbing store only carries polypropylene or nylon. Polyester is better. Sailrite has white, or you can order webbing in 11 colors from Strapworks.com .

Pole strapping = (number of poles) x (width of awning + 8″)

The extra 8″ gives you 4″ on each side to sew the female buckle on. The female buckle at the edge of the awning is what the Adjustable strap clips into when you are erecting the awning.

Adjustable Webbing Strap = (number of poles) x (5.5′) x (2)

The .5′ is to add the 4″ retainer strap above the pocket + the foldover for the pocket. If you know that the length of your poles is not more than six feet longer than your awning width (3′ on each side) you can reduce the five feet closer to four feet.

This meant created a “pole channel” on the underside of the awning where the pole would be inserted. I made these out of Surlast , an abrasion resistant material. You could also use Top Gun or similar products. I cut 4″ wide strips of the Surlast, sewed the strips together to create the channel length I needed, then sewed the channel edges together to make a long tube, and made one for each pole. Note that Surlast has an inside and outside so be careful when you go to sew the tube.

Surlast = (finished width of awning in inches) x (number of poles) / 12 = feet of channel needed.

1 yd of 60″ surlast makes 45′ of pole channel

What Else do I need?

You will also need lots of thread (v-69 or V-92 thread at SailRite is UV resistant), lots of seamstick , and 2″ YKK Side-Release buckles . You may want to add leach line or 1″ webbing inside your hems to give something for bungie snubbers to hook onto.

Buckles = (# of poles) x 2

What’s Next?

Your design is complete and you have ordered all the materials. The next step is of course to put these together. You can probably figure it out from what we’ve gone through so far, but someday I will put together details on that and write a post. But a few hints now. The main thing is that the cover is large and your machine (like my SailRite LSZ-1) may not have a large throat – so sewing space is tight! You will want to plan out each panel, sew as much on each panel as you can, then second to last step, connect the panels together, always keeping the panel you’re adding to the right (under the throat) and the rest of the awning outside to the left. Then the last step will be to hem the long sides, once again leaving the bulk of the awning to your left. Another thing to keep in mind on this project is that there are layers to keep from sewing together too early. The top webbing over the channels must be secured first (I basted it on right down the middle of the strap). Then the surlast channels for the poles are added to the underside. You want to sew these only at the very edges to leave unobstructed room for the poles. By using 2″ webbing straps your channels should fit neatly underneath and as you attach the channels from the underside you will also be sewing the webbing edges down on the top side. You also want to make sure not to sew the webbing straps down too close to the hem. You need to leave room for the hem itself, and you also need room to attach the female end of the buckle , tuck the end of the strap under and sew the strap together to secure the buckle permanently (see image below). It’s easier to add the buckles AFTER the side hem is done, but be sure not to sew the straps down as you do the hem.

About This Site

Cockpit awning on a budget

At less than $100, this diy awning might not be as pretty as one that’s custom made but it does the job.

If your boat lies unattended, even for a short time—be it in a marina, (in or out of the water), or on a mooring—it doesn’t take long for it to become grubby, from bird droppings or wind blown dust. An awning is still the simplest and most effective defense method. It works particularly well to protect a large cockpit or the cockpit of a pocket cruiser for sleeping and living.

I wanted to cover the center cockpit and bimini on my 45-foot schooner Britannia to shield it from the Florida sun. The bimini enclosure leaked a little especially during some of the horrendous cloudbursts on summer afternoons.

Of course, it’s always possible to have an awning custom made at any canvas or sail maker’s loft, but that wasn’t in my budget.

The simplest and easiest way to create an awning is to buy a cheap plastic tarp from your local DIY store, drape it over a boom and attach it to the rails with bungee shock-cord, to basically form a simple tent or lean-to. The main boom on Britannia passes straight over the cockpit, so making a tent was easy. Most tarps have eyelets every 18 inches, so threading bungee cord through and hooking the other end to the rail was easy.

However, as might be expected, such a simple solution has its inadequacies. Only the area where there is a support boom can be covered and if you anchor the sides down to a rail it can become a bit of a scramble to edge along the side decks. The tarp will also probably rub against the sides of the bimini, which can cause chafe to both materials in high winds. And, no surprise, a tarp tent looks cheap, because it is.

I thought about how to overcome these defects, and make an awning that is both more effective and looks a bit more professional. An idea sprung from seeing covered wagons in an old Wild West movie and I decided to try to make a curved cover like those wagons. Such an arrangement might also hold the tarp clear of the bimini and allow air to pass between. It should also offer more headroom along the side decks and overcome the access problem.

I found manufacturers offering just such an awning for about $700 for my boat. And although I knew that what I could make would not look as finished as a purchased custom awning, I was mindful of the budget.

I bought a 12-foot-by-16-foot tarp from my local hardware store that nicely fit my main boom length of 16 feet and the boat’s 13-foot beam, tapering down to 10 feet towards the stern. The awning also extended over the aft hatch. Tarps are available in many different sizes and colors, so it should not be difficult to find or tailor one to suit almost any boat.

I needed something to make three curved support bars. I bought six 10-foot-long, half-inch diameter PVC pipes. These are very strong yet flexible and used for high pressure hot and cold water in houses. I also found couplings to screw two pipes together so they could also be unscrewed to more easily stow the awning when we went sailing. I glued the adapters to each pipe, then screwed them together with a threaded coupling.

To attach them to the boat I used the same type of pipe, but three-quarter-inch diameter. This size pipe has an internal diameter of a half-inch, so my half-inch awning supports slid inside this pipe perfectly. I fastened three short lengths of three-quarter-inch pipe to the stanchions on each side of the boat using hose clips, after first taping the stanchions to prevent scratching by the clips. The awning rods easily curved over the boom and into these sockets, forming three perfect arches. I fastened half-inch hose clips on the rods, to prevent them from sliding through the sockets.

After dragging the tarp over the boom, I used cable ties to strap it securely to the rods, through the eyelets in the front and back of the tarp. I then used one-quarter-inch line to secure the awning round the mast and a cable tie at the rear to fasten it to the end of the boom. I could only fasten the center support rod at the edges of the tarp, but it has stayed in place so far in all winds.

I then bought 10 3-foot lengths of bungee shock cord, (blue color to match the rest of the boat), with pre-made hooks on each end to anchor the tarp to the side lifelines and the front and rear rods. All that was needed to attach the cord to the tarp was to cut the hook off one end, then thread it through an eyelet in the tarp and tie a single overhand knot to stop it slipping out. The central arch not only supported the middle of the long tarp, but it provided more room to get under the awning and made it look neater. Shorter awnings than Britannia’s might not need a center support.

All told, the materials for this project cost just $90, including $37 for the tarp.

Dismantling the awning when we wanted to go sailing actually proved to be quite simple, and my wife and I soon became proficient. Leaving the two center fastenings front and back still attached, the shock cord is unclipped and the rods removed from their sockets. The rods are then unscrewed and one side of the awning is folded over the other while still attached to the boom at both ends. Then we remove either the front or rear center attachment and the awning can be tightly rolled up along with the rods. I tie the rolled up tarp to the lower lifelines on my boat, where it is out of the way, again using bungee cord.

This inexpensive awning effectively protects Britannia’s canvas bimini from the fierce Florida sun as well as any expensive custom made cover. Temperatures in the cockpit are also significantly lower than when the awning is not fitted, and I can comfortably get along the side decks.

I consider this to be ample reward for the financial outlay and the small effort. I can even put up with the occasional remark that it “looks like a replica of a Conestoga wagon,” because envy is just another form of flattery.

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Awning and stack pack

the sailboat awning, ready in a taac

With Lazy-TAC nautical accessories for sailboats, you can easily and quickly install the sun awning by yourself , allowing you to decide whether to keep it up while sailing or roll it up onto the boom, shading just one side or both. You have complete freedom with Lazy-TAC!

Imagine yourself relaxed at anchor in the shade of your awning..

shade in seconds

Looking for a quick and easy way to shade your sailboat? We have the right awning / auvent de bateau / toldo barco for you.

In fact, shading the cockpit has never been easier: you can set up the awning quickly and by yourself , without having to adjust the lazyjacks.

The covers can be removed quickly to secure the boat during sudden gusts of wind, which are becoming more and more frequent.

Man struggling to install a traditional awning or avent de bateau or toldo barco on a sailboat

custom sailboat canopy

You can choose between 4 different rails with awnings and stack pack to insert. Lazy-TAC accessories are custom made and supplied ready to be installed on aluminum, wood or composite booms.

Discover the most suitable accessory for you based on the characteristics of your boom :

rigging wrapped boom

If your boat has a boom wrapped by rigging, such as reefing lines or mainsail clew retaining belt, you can install:

sailboat accessory for easy awning and stack pack

Double rail for awning and lazybag, equipped with passages for the rigging

lazy-tac easy one +

Single rail for awning, equipped with passages for the rigging

detail of the cord for inserting the awning

awnings and lazybags

In marine fabric, with string to be inserted in Lazy-TAC

If you don’t have rigging around the boom, or you have a boat with a furling mainsail , you can install:

double aluminum rail for sailboat boom for awnings and stack packs

lazy-tac easy two

Double rail for awning and lazybag

aluminum nautical accessory for sailboat awning

lazy-tac easy one

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We can build covers for any custom projects. We will work around special rigging or unique designs to bring it all together for the perfectly finished look. Many times the up front cost of a winter cover is substantially high, however if you keep your boat for more than three to five years the cost becomes much lower than shrink wrapping. Also the quality and functionality of the cover is much greater than the standard blue and green polyethylene tarps. A quality winter cover is important in preserving your upholstery from rain, snow, and harmful UV rays. Now using more and more, the H2ube frame for sturdy, easy use, easy to clean covers. Sail boat enclosures. Our custom fit sail boat enclosures allow boaters to use the outdoor space in all weather and get full use of boat. This in turn can also lengthen the boating season all together allowing you to launch earlier in the spring and to stay warm on a beautiful late fall evening sail. Enclosures are designed to provide maximum visibility built with Strata Glass, Makrolon Polycarbonate or Crystal Clear glass while using Sunbrella or Stamoid for the panels.

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Hallett can design and fabricate any in-house custom upholstery or canvas work that you may need. Some of these projects include, winch covers, helm covers, mooring covers, fender covers, boom tents, wheel covers, hatch covers and much more. You tell us what you would like and we will go the extra mile to meet your needs.

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Cruising the Moskva River: A short guide to boat trips in Russia’s capital

There’s hardly a better way to absorb Moscow’s atmosphere than on a ship sailing up and down the Moskva River. While complicated ticketing, loud music and chilling winds might dampen the anticipated fun, this checklist will help you to enjoy the scenic views and not fall into common tourist traps.

How to find the right boat?

There are plenty of boats and selecting the right one might be challenging. The size of the boat should be your main criteria.

Plenty of small boats cruise the Moskva River, and the most vivid one is this yellow Lay’s-branded boat. Everyone who has ever visited Moscow probably has seen it.

This option might leave a passenger disembarking partially deaf as the merciless Russian pop music blasts onboard. A free spirit, however, will find partying on such a vessel to be an unforgettable and authentic experience that’s almost a metaphor for life in modern Russia: too loud, and sometimes too welcoming. Tickets start at $13 (800 rubles) per person.

Bigger boats offer smoother sailing and tend to attract foreign visitors because of their distinct Soviet aura. Indeed, many of the older vessels must have seen better days. They are still afloat, however, and getting aboard is a unique ‘cultural’ experience. Sometimes the crew might offer lunch or dinner to passengers, but this option must be purchased with the ticket. Here is one such option offering dinner for $24 (1,490 rubles).

If you want to travel in style, consider Flotilla Radisson. These large, modern vessels are quite posh, with a cozy restaurant and an attentive crew at your service. Even though the selection of wines and food is modest, these vessels are still much better than other boats.

Surprisingly, the luxurious boats are priced rather modestly, and a single ticket goes for $17-$32 (1,100-2,000 rubles); also expect a reasonable restaurant bill on top.

How to buy tickets?

Women holding photos of ships promise huge discounts to “the young and beautiful,” and give personal invitations for river tours. They sound and look nice, but there’s a small catch: their ticket prices are usually more than those purchased online.

“We bought tickets from street hawkers for 900 rubles each, only to later discover that the other passengers bought their tickets twice as cheap!” wrote (in Russian) a disappointed Rostislav on a travel company website.

Nevertheless, buying from street hawkers has one considerable advantage: they personally escort you to the vessel so that you don’t waste time looking for the boat on your own.

Prices start at $13 (800 rubles) for one ride, and for an additional $6.5 (400 rubles) you can purchase an unlimited number of tours on the same boat on any given day.

Flotilla Radisson has official ticket offices at Gorky Park and Hotel Ukraine, but they’re often sold out.

Buying online is an option that might save some cash. Websites such as this offer considerable discounts for tickets sold online. On a busy Friday night an online purchase might be the only chance to get a ticket on a Flotilla Radisson boat.

This website (in Russian) offers multiple options for short river cruises in and around the city center, including offbeat options such as ‘disco cruises’ and ‘children cruises.’ This other website sells tickets online, but doesn’t have an English version. The interface is intuitive, however.

Buying tickets online has its bad points, however. The most common is confusing which pier you should go to and missing your river tour.

“I once bought tickets online to save with the discount that the website offered,” said Igor Shvarkin from Moscow. “The pier was initially marked as ‘Park Kultury,’ but when I arrived it wasn’t easy to find my boat because there were too many there. My guests had to walk a considerable distance before I finally found the vessel that accepted my tickets purchased online,” said the man.

There are two main boarding piers in the city center: Hotel Ukraine and Park Kultury . Always take note of your particular berth when buying tickets online.

Where to sit onboard?

Even on a warm day, the headwind might be chilly for passengers on deck. Make sure you have warm clothes, or that the crew has blankets ready upon request.

The glass-encased hold makes the tour much more comfortable, but not at the expense of having an enjoyable experience.

Getting off the boat requires preparation as well. Ideally, you should be able to disembark on any pier along the way. In reality, passengers never know where the boat’s captain will make the next stop. Street hawkers often tell passengers in advance where they’ll be able to disembark. If you buy tickets online then you’ll have to research it yourself.

There’s a chance that the captain won’t make any stops at all and will take you back to where the tour began, which is the case with Flotilla Radisson. The safest option is to automatically expect that you’ll return to the pier where you started.

If using any of Russia Beyond's content, partly or in full, always provide an active hyperlink to the original material.

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Moscow Has a New Standard for Street Design

Written by Strelka Magazine
Published on August 25, 2016

Earlier this year the development of a new Street Design Standard for Moscow was completed under a large-scale urban renovation program entitled My Street , and represents the city's first document featuring a complex approach to ecology, retail, green space, transportation, and wider urban planning. The creators of the manual set themselves the goal of making the city safer and cleaner and, ultimately, improving the quality of life. In this exclusive interview, Strelka Magazine speaks to the Street Design Standard 's project manager and Strelka KB architect Yekaterina Maleeva about the infamous green fences of Moscow, how Leningradskoe Highway is being made suitable for people once again, and what the document itself means for the future of the Russian capital.

Strelka Magazine: What is the Street Design Standard and what does it include?

Yekaterina Maleeva: The Street Design Standard is a manual for street planning in Moscow . The Standard is divided into four books, each one of them covering particular aspects of street design. Many cities across the globe have developed their own standards and the concept has gained a lot of popularity over the last decade. The New York Street Design Manual is a famous example; the book has even been translated into Russian. However, Moscow streets have little in common with New York streets, for example; every city has its own unique urban typology and simply copying existing solutions from another manual is not a viable option.

When we started our work on the Standard , the first thing we did was study Moscow streets, their peculiarities and common features. The first volume of the Standard focuses on the typology and distinctive attributes of the streets of Moscow. We gathered data on more than 3,000 streets and processed the data. Despite the large sample size, we discovered certain similarities. We managed to identify ten of the most common street types, but some unique streets could not be categorized. For instance, Tverskaya Street, built in 19th century, originally fell under category "10C." But after it was widened in the 1930s, Tverskaya ended up in a unique place within the urban fabric of Moscow. Such objects as that require a case by case approach and an individual project.

What can be found in the other volumes?

After we identified these ten street types, we started working on defining the best way to approach the development of each. The second book describes what a street of each type must have. We developed a general profile and functional zoning for each type. The pavement is more than just a pedestrian lane: there is a buffer zone between the roadway and the walking lane where the parking posts, street lights and communication lines are located. It’s a mandatory utility zone that has to be paved in such a way that any section can be easily unpaved and replaced. There is also a pedestrian fast lane for people walking to their workplace and a promenade with benches and other objects. Building façades have a large impact on the street they are facing. Restaurants and shops are located in these buildings. Making the adjacent zone retail-friendly is important. Cafes and restaurants must be able to open street patios to attract customers without disrupting the pedestrian traffic. How to apply these concepts to each of the street types is thoroughly explained in the Standard .

The third book describes eleven groups of design elements, including surface materials, benches, trash bins and lights. This catalogue of elements contains no mention of suppliers. It does not promote any manufacturers; instead it describes the attributes which define a quality product. For instance, the third book explains which type of tree grates will serve the longest while causing no damage to the root system of a tree. Styles of grates, bins, benches and other elements may vary, but all the items must comply with the quality standard.

Finally, the fourth book focuses on the planning process: how to perform preliminary analysis, how to apply user opinions during the development and how to achieve quality implementation. Additionally, there is a special emphasis on the fact that street planning cannot be carried out without any regard for the context of the street. A street should be regarded as a part of an interconnected system of various public spaces, together with adjacent parks, garden squares, yards and plazas.

Does the Standard have an official status? Should it be considered a law or merely a guideline?

There are a number of state-level laws and regulations relevant to street design issued by the Moscow Government. They were taken into account during the development of the manual. These regulations ensure safety standards and must be complied with. While the existing legislation covers safety aspects, our books introduce comfort standards. The Standard is basically a non-binding, advisory guideline created with the goal of improving the urban environment everywhere across the capital and maintaining it at a high level.

What happens if a street does not fit any of the mentioned types (and is not as significant as Tverskaya)? For instance, what if a street located in the New Moscow territory has cottages on one side, apartment complexes on the other and an entrance to the Moscow Ring Road somewhere along the way?

A standard is not a ready-made solution. The streets share common features yet also retain their individual attributes at the same time. Applying a single standard profile to every street is impossible. Adjustments are always in order.

The Standard offers three sets of solutions for each type of street with a large potential for combining various elements. The manual basically offers a convenient database that a designer working with a new space could use. That does not mean that all the new projects will look exactly the same. Some solutions featured in the Standard are yet to be implemented anywhere in Moscow . For instance, our collaboration with Transsolar, a German company consulting us on environmental comfort, revealed that Moscow’s largest environmental problem was not in fact CO2, but small-particle dust produced by studded tyre traction. And a simple method to control this type of pollution already exists. Many busy streets outside the city center have a green buffer zone separating the roadway from the sidewalks. A 1.5m high ground elevation running along this zone could filter out up to 70% of the tyre dust, preventing it from spreading into the residential areas. Western countries have been successfully using this technology for many years. Now it is a part of Moscow Standard . By the way, a terrain elevation could also help reduce the level of road noise.

Does the Standard offer anything for the main roads? For example, nowadays Leningradskoye Highway basically splits the city into two disconnected parts; it’s a car dominion.

The Standard does not offer solutions for transportation problems. When we were defining our street typology, we relied on traffic load data calculated using Moscow ’s transportation model. We pursued a goal of only offering solutions that would not aggravate the current transport situation. Any planned sidewalk extension or addition of a bicycle lane or road crossing should first be approved by the Moscow Department of Transport.

As for the main roads, our research revealed that the streets with the highest traffic load also have the heaviest pedestrian traffic. One would think that it should be the other way around. However, the main roads have metro stations, which generate a lot of pedestrian traffic, which in turn draws retail. Treating main roads the same way as highways is impossible. The needs of both vehicle traffic and local residents must be taken into account, which creates a paradox.

These territories have every opportunity to become more comfortable. Some have relatively large green buffer zones that currently remain underused. The Standard proposes to augment these zones with additional functionality. On one hand, some of the main streets will gain attraction centers, especially near intersections connecting them to the adjacent residential areas. Weekend markets are one example of such centers. On the other hand, the Standard involves the creation of zones able to absorb extra precipitation flowing from the roads and filter it. There is a list with types of vegetation best fit to handle this task. The same zones could be used to store snow in the winter. The meltwater will be naturally absorbed by the soil, alleviating the need for moving the snow out to melt. This, however, would require decreasing the quantity of melting chemicals sprayed over the snow, as the plants underneath might be susceptible to their effects.

Can the new Standard rid us of green lawn fences, yellow curbs and other eternal eyesores?

The choice of yellow and green appears random, so we have no idea how to actually fight that. The Standard offers no colour schemes. As long as fences meet the set requirements, their colour does not matter. However, currently they seem to fail to comply. The Standard states that lawns do not require fencing. This is a waste of materials: people will not trample grass and bushes just for the sake of it, while dog owners will trespass anyway. There are many other options for protecting lawns from being trampled. For instance, a same-level pavement strip with a different texture could protect a lawn from accidental intruders just as well as a curb can.

Natural soil water absorption is currently largely ignored, with most precipitation going down the storm drains. Meanwhile patches of open terrain on a street are able to absorb water. Employing these natural cycles in street layout could save resources.

Does the Standard provide any financial estimations? For instance, an approximate cost of renovating a street of a particular type?

No, as the Standard does not list any products of any particular brand, there are no prices to refer to. Nonetheless, the Standard was developed to fit three potential price ranges. Whether their estimated price is low or high, all the elements ensure that quality requirements are met. The same quality level must be maintained across the whole city and never drop below the set standard.

Let’s say a world-famous architect arrives to Moscow to design a street. He puts incredibly beautiful things into his project, which, unfortunately, contradict the Standard and are not guaranteed to work as intended. In that scenario, will the architect be told to stick to the Standard ?

This could happen and I think it would be a good thing. If an architect plans to place a sculpture on a 1.5 meter wide sidewalk, would that really be a good idea? Following the Standard ensures smooth movement. Its goal is to reinvigorate the streets. In Copenhagen, new design manuals helped increase average time spent by residents outside by 20% over 10 years. That was achieved through creating convenient and attractive public spaces. Moreover, implementation of the Standard enables the creation of professional documentation for architects, which excludes the possibility of any instructions that will later be unclear to the experts trying to work with them. Finally, the Standard also pursues the task of providing the opportunity for the development of street retail.

Isn’t retail a whole different story? How can retail be introduced in such places as Strogino District, where the ground floors are living floors and have security bars on windows? By reintroducing street vendors?

True, business has no direct relation to street renovation. However, there is a strong connection between them. In Strogino, building façades are mostly located far from the sidewalk. Moreover, facades are often concealed by shrubbery and trees, making local businesses even less noticeable. Another problem is that first floor apartments cannot be used for commercial purposes due to insufficient ceiling height (3 m compared to 3.5 m required minimum). Nonetheless, we discovered multiple examples of shop owners reconstructing apartments in residential districts to meet the requirements.

Our British consultant Phil Wren, a street retail expert, travelled Moscow ’s residential districts and studied the existing examples. He came up with a great idea: building an expansion connected to the façade and facing the sidewalk. This makes it possible both to achieve the required ceiling height and increase the visibility of the business to the passers-by. The part of the shop located in the apartment can be used as a utility room or a stockroom. This way the noise level is reduced, regulations are met and store space is increased. Our Russian consultants confirmed the viability of the proposed concept. And the Standard will ensure that any added expansions will look presentable.

Does the Standard also regulate façade appearances, an architectural element? What should be expected from this? It is unlikely that all houses which fail to comply will be demolished once the Standard is implemented.

Renovation works with what is given. Of course, façades cannot be changed. Central Moscow has a problem with mansions and many other buildings being fenced off, which prevents them from accommodating street retail. Central streets are also relatively narrow. The Standard proposes sidewalk expansion wherever the access to the first floors is open. Street renovation does not always involve planting trees. Some places require enhanced crossings so that people can quickly reach the other side of the street to get to a shop or a café. Those streets where the facades are windowless are a more suitable place to plant more vegetation.

Can an average person – not an architect, designer or construction worker – understand the new Standard , or is it a technical document which can only be interpreted by a professional?

Any person can. The Standard is written in a way that both professionals and common citizens are able to understand. The Standard contains multiple images, photos, infographics and diagrams and is written in plain language. We would love for more people to read it: the books contain many interesting solutions for our city that affect every pedestrian.

In late March it was revealed that Strelka KB would be developing a standard for recreational zones and public areas in Moscow . What differences will that document have from the Street Design Standard ?

The two standards will have a lot in common. The city currently faces a task of developing a connected system of public spaces. The first logical step was to work with the streets which actually connect areas of attraction and other public spaces. Now the work on all other public spaces takes off. Parks, garden squares, yards, water bank recreation areas, plazas near metro stations must all fall into place. Work with these territories will set a single quality standard. In addition, it will improve Moscow ’s quality of life and reduce air pollution. Simple solutions could improve airflow, increase biodiversity and reduce noise levels at the same time.

The renovation program is quite long and depends on numerous standards and documents. But when exactly will the endless repair works end? Are there any time estimations for when all these concepts will finally get implemented?

This is not an easy question. Full renovation may last decades. The Standard is the first step towards actually controlling the renovation process and its timeline. Until now renovation has been proceeding rather haphazardly. Now the city has decided that the way the streets are designed should be clarified. We understand that the Standard cannot last unchanged for eternity and should, just like any regulation, undergo periodical updates. The Standard uses flexible typology: a street of one type could transition to another within a few years under certain conditions, such as changes in its usage and its user categories. Everything must stay regularly updated according to the accumulated experience.

During our work on the Standard , we held regular roundtables joined by experts and ordinary citizens. One of our guests mentioned that he had recently started paying attention to Moscow ’s facades, their beauty and their drawbacks. He was able to do that because he no longer had to watch his step. So the process has already started and we already see some results.

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Payware Airports and Scenery Reviews

Scenery Review : Moscow City XP by Drzewiecki Design

drzewiecki design

By Stephen September 24, 2016 in Payware Airports and Scenery Reviews

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7 months later...

Thank you for this very thorough (as always) review. I just bought it (it's on sale) and have only one disappointment so far: Red Square has no ILS or any landing aids at all for that matter. And what a nightmare of an approach! Also I was hoping the package would include an add-on that gives my c172 a big cup holder for my Stoli. Otherwise the scenery is gorgeous. What a country!

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Know-How: Make an Awning
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Build your own sailboat cockpit awning As you can see, we went with a basic 2-panel system. This way we have a back panel to shade the crew sitting in the cockpit. This back panel will be in place whether the main sail is up or down. Then the front panel will only be up when the main sail is down (the front panel rests across the boom).
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