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Complete Guide to Mooring Systems

Securing your vessel isn't merely a matter of anchoring it. Dock mooring types are crucial for any vessel owner or operator to keep ships safe from damage and well-anchored.

Haven Dock & Marine offers various mooring solutions that cater to different vessel sizes and environmental demands. 

Read on to learn about how various mooring systems and applications work to assist and keep boats, floating platforms, and other watercraft secure or stationary at all water depths.

What is Mooring?

A mooring type refers to a system made up of connectors, anchors, and mooring lines to keep a ship floating in deep water.

The variety of mooring caters to boat owners in different marine environments, ensuring your vessel stays put in calm lakes or faces the wrath of open seas. Mooring lines, mooring buoys, and more all play a part.

Selecting the Right Mooring Type for Your Needs

Maintaining your vessel’s safety starts with the right components for your mooring system, including mooring lines and mooring buoys. This will ensure your boat is secure, accessible, and safe from bumps and scratches. 

Dock mooring systems can support watercraft of all shapes and sizes, including:

• Cargo vessels
• Cruise ships
• Fishing boats
• Personal watercraft (PWCs or jet skis)
• Pontoon boats

There are two primary types of mooring systems: a shore fixture like a pier or an offshore fixture like a floating dock system . Regardless of the mooring system you choose, your dock or mooring point must be able to withstand a number of different forces, such as:

• The current
• Adverse weather

Your system's holding power should withstand any reasonable force your ship can expect to experience, whether small or large.

Mooring Equipment

Mooring line.

Mooring line connects to the anchor and keeps the structure afloat. Mooring lines are mainly made from wire, fiber rope, and chain.

Mooring Anchor

Your mooring system relies heavily on the strength of its anchor. The holding capacity of each anchor, which should generally be at least three times the weight of your service anchor, depends on the water depth, seafloor soil properties, and type of anchor you use.

Mooring Chain

The mooring chain connects the anchor to a floating buoy or watercraft. Experts recommend that your mooring line be three times the length of the water’s depth and a quarter inch thicker than your service chain.

It’s also a good idea to invest in mooring line supports to protect the line from chafing, as well as mooring whips, which are solid fiberglass rods that keep your watercraft a safe distance away from the dock edge to prevent damage during unfavorable weather conditions.

Although you can also choose from various mooring lines , cables, and ropes , stick with a chain for permanent moorings in waters up to 328 ft (100 m). For waters deeper than 984 ft (300 m), choose a stainless steel cable or wire rope. For ultradeep waters (more than 6,560 ft or 2,000 m), use a combination chain, wire, and synthetic fiber line for maximum strength.

Mooring Buoy

The mooring buoy, heavier than a standard buoy,  floats in the water away from the shoreline. The buoy allows boats to be moored in deep water instead of shallow water or to be moored to a pier.

Boat dock systems can use several types of anchors:

• Deadweight anchors use weight as their holding power to settle at the bottom of the sea and are the simplest type of anchor.
• Mushroom anchors look like an upside-down mushroom, are made of heavy cast iron, and are best for freshwater and smaller motorized water vehicles. If you get a mushroom anchor, find one coated with PVC to act as a bumper and prevent damage to your watercraft.
• Pyramid anchors are similar to mushrooms, except they’re shaped like a pyramid and become embedded in the seafloor quicker than the mushroom anchor. They’re used in shallow waters.
• Helix anchors consist of helically shaped stainless steel plates attached to a central shaft and use rotation during installation in the ground. They’re more eco-friendly and work best for marinas and residential systems in waters no greater than 60 feet.
• Piling anchors drive a single structure into the seafloor for maximum stability and minimal side-to-side movement.

Choosing Your Mooring: Types and Maintenance 

When setting up a mooring, think of it like planting a tree. It needs the right spot and some care to get started. 

Swing Mooring

This is a permanent fixture attached to the bed to provide stationary mooring. Swing moorings demand careful placement away from other anchors to avoid tangling. 

Pile Mooring

These are poles driven into the bottom of the waterway with their tops above the water. Boats tie mooring lines to two or four piles to secure their position between the piles. 

Pile moorings need precise installation but offer stability in crowded waters. 

Dockside Mooring

Dockside mooring involves securing the length of your boat to the dock using cleats and lines. Haven Dock & Marine offers a wide variety of cleats , from heavy-duty galvanized options to space-saving flip-up styles.

Maintenance

Regular inspections are essential. Look out for wear on lines and chains for swing and pile systems, or check that your dock bumpers stay firm and functional. This proactive approach will save you headaches down the line.

The Role of Fenders in Mooring Safety

Haven Dock & Marine is particularly proud of our role as the sole manufacturer and distributor of Fend-All Fenders , which act as a cushion between your vessel and the dock or another vessel to absorb impact, prevent damage, and extend the life of your boat. Crafted to revolutionize how your vessel weathers mooring, these fenders serve as critical guardians, averting harm and fortifying safety.

Consistent bumping without proper protection can weaken your craft's structural integrity over time. With Fend-All Fenders, you're investing in peace of mind and long-term durability for your watercraft.

Get Innovative Mooring Equipment from Haven Dock & Marine

When it comes to mooring, one size does not fit all. That's why at Haven Dock & Marine, we fuse top-notch materials, steadfast dependability, and the latest tech innovations in our product line offerings.

Beyond innovative Fend-All Fenders, our top-of-the-line mooring products span cleats to whips to innovative solutions like TideSlides , whether you’re sailing serene lakes or the unforgiving ocean waves. Each product is crafted with care because we know the sea never takes a day off—and neither do you.

Whatever your needs, contact us at Haven Dock & Marine, and we'll set you up with the best mooring system to keep your boat safe in the harbor and weather the storm!

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• Mastering the Art of Boat Mooring: A Comprehensive Guide

Navigating the open waters demands more than just the thrill of the journey; it requires the mastery of a fundamental skill—boat mooring . Whether you find yourself at the helm of a sleek yacht, a versatile pontoon boat, or any other watercraft, the art of securing your vessel isn't just about tying knots; it's about ensuring safety and cultivating peace of mind amidst the undulating waves. This comprehensive guide invites you on a journey to explore the intricate facets of boat mooring, encompassing the foundational basics to advanced techniques that elevate your maritime competence. Join us as we unveil the secrets to a secure and confident mooring experience, regardless of your seafaring expertise. 

Understanding the Basics

A process that goes beyond a simple act of tying knots , mooring is the art of securing a boat firmly to a fixed structure, a vital maneuver preventing the vessel from untethered drifts and unwarranted movements. Whether it's a mooring buoy bobbing in open waters, a stable pontoon awaiting a boat's embrace, or the reassuring solidity of a dock, each scenario demands a nuanced approach. Before setting sail into the realm of advanced techniques, it is paramount to grasp the foundational basics of mooring. In this section, we embark on a journey to unravel the essence of boat mooring, where every knot and every connection is a declaration of maritime control and expertise. 

Types of Mooring Points

Embarking on a journey across the seas requires more than just a navigational compass—it demands a nuanced understanding of the diverse mooring points that await seafarers. Here, we explore three quintessential mooring points that stand as sentinels against the capricious tides:

Mooring Buoys

In the vast expanse of open waters, mooring buoys emerge as steadfast allies. These floating devices, firmly anchored to the sea floor, beckon boats to secure their mooring lines, offering stability in the midst of the fluid and unpredictable nature of the sea.

Mooring Pontoons

Harboring both convenience and reliability, mooring pontoons present a floating sanctuary for boats. These platforms, seamlessly connected to the shore or anchored to the seabed, serve as stable foundations for mooring endeavors. As vessels approach, pontoons extend a welcoming embrace, facilitating secure connections and ensuring a smooth docking experience.

Dock Cleats

Along bustling docks and harbors, the unsung heroes of mooring are the sturdy dock cleats. These fittings, strategically placed on docks, stand ready to shoulder the responsibility of securing boats. Designed with durability in mind, dock cleats become steadfast partners in the delicate dance between boat and shore, offering a reliable point of connection in the bustling domain of marine activity.

In unraveling the tapestry of mooring points, we discover that each holds a unique role in the maritime narrative, beckoning sailors to navigate their vessels with precision and confidence.

Essential Equipment

Setting sail into the realm of boat mooring necessitates more than just maritime know-how; it demands a keen understanding of the essential equipment that transforms the act into a seamless and secure endeavor. Here, we introduce the trio of indispensable tools that form the backbone of every successful mooring operation:

Mooring Lines

Consider mooring lines as the lifelines connecting your vessel to stability. These robust ropes play a pivotal role in the mooring process, serving as the literal ties that bind your boat to the chosen mooring point—be it a buoy, pontoon, or dock. Crafted from materials designed to withstand the rigors of the sea, mooring lines are the first and last defense against the whims of the waves.

In the intricate ballet of boat mooring, cleats take center stage as the performers facilitating the choreography. These fittings, strategically placed on both boat and dock, serve as anchor points for mooring lines. By providing a secure and reliable grip, cleats transform the potential chaos of unbridled movement into a synchronized dance between vessel and mooring point.

Enter the unsung heroes of boat mooring—the protective guardians known as fenders. As cushions strategically positioned along the sides of the boat, fenders act as a defensive barrier against the potential impact with the mooring structure. By absorbing shock and preventing unsightly dings and scratches, fenders contribute to the longevity and aesthetics of both boat and mooring point.

In the symphony of boat mooring, these essential equipment components harmonize to create a seamless and secure maritime experience. As you embark on your mooring journey, ensure that your arsenal includes these tools, each playing a distinct role in the safety and success of your seafaring endeavors.

Techniques for Boat Mooring

As the sea beckons and vessels traverse the waterways, the mastery of boat mooring techniques becomes a captain's artistry. Navigating the nuances of securing your vessel is a skill set that goes beyond the horizon. Let's delve into the techniques that elevate mooring from a task to a finely tuned maritime performance:

Approaching the Mooring Point

The prelude to a successful mooring begins with a measured approach. Slow and controlled navigation is the key symphony conductor, allowing the captain to assess the mooring point and make adjustments with precision. As the boat gracefully glides towards its destination, this deliberate approach sets the stage for a seamless mooring experience.

Preparing Mooring Lines

In the overture of boat mooring, the importance of preparation cannot be overstated. Have your mooring lines ready and properly coiled, akin to a musician tuning their instrument before a performance. This ensures efficient deployment and eliminates the risk of tangled lines, enabling a swift and secure connection to the chosen mooring point.

Choosing the Right Knots

The artistry of boat mooring extends to the choice of knots —a sailor's repertoire of secure ties. Learn and master knots such as the cleat hitch and bowline, each serving a specific purpose in the delicate dance between boat and mooring point. The right knot is not just a means of connection; it's a testament to seamanship and expertise.

Accounting for Wind and Current

Nature's interlude in the mooring performance comes in the form of wind and current. A skilled captain understands the environmental factors at play and adjusts their approach accordingly. Accounting for the invisible forces that shape the sea ensures that the mooring process unfolds with grace and control, even in the face of challenging conditions.

In the grand composition of boat mooring, these techniques harmonize to orchestrate a safe, efficient, and controlled connection between vessel and mooring point. As you navigate the waters, let these techniques be your compass, guiding you through the intricate steps of securing your maritime companion.

Mooring Safety Considerations

As the captain orchestrates the mooring ballet, safety takes center stage in this maritime performance. The sea, while enchanting, can be unpredictable, demanding a vigilant conductor. Here are the key safety considerations to ensure a harmonious and secure mooring experience:

Weather Conditions

Nature's temperament plays a pivotal role in the success of any mooring endeavor. Stay attuned to the weather forecast , for winds and storms can transform the serene seascape into a challenging stage. Adjust mooring techniques in anticipation of adverse weather conditions, ensuring that your vessel remains steadfast against the elements.

Checking Equipment

The reliability of your mooring operation hinges on the integrity of your equipment. Regular inspections are the overture to safety. Take the time to meticulously examine and maintain mooring lines, cleats, and other essential gear. A well-maintained ensemble ensures that every element performs its role seamlessly, reducing the risk of unexpected mishaps.

Boat Size and Type

In the maritime symphony, not all vessels dance to the same rhythm. Recognize that different boats have distinct mooring requirements. Adapt your techniques to accommodate the size and type of your vessel. From the nimble sailboat to the majestic yacht, tailor your approach to ensure that your mooring practices are finely tuned to the nuances of your maritime companion.

In the intricate choreography of mooring safety, these considerations form the melody that guides the dance between vessel and mooring point. Prioritize safety, be it in the face of changing weather or the routine check of equipment, and let these considerations be your compass on the journey to secure and confident boat mooring.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our  Magazine.

Mooring yachts

Navigating the seas aboard a yacht adds a layer of sophistication to the art of mooring. As larger vessels command the waters, it's crucial to consider special considerations and employ specialized equipment. Delve into the nuances of mooring yachts with these focused insights:

Special Considerations

The grandeur of yachts demands an extra measure of attention to detail during the mooring ballet. Larger vessels, with their increased size and weight, may respond differently to environmental forces. Navigate with heightened awareness, considering factors such as wind, current, and the spatial requirements unique to yachts. A captain's discerning eye and a thorough understanding of the vessel's dynamics are paramount for a graceful mooring performance.

Yacht Lines and Cleats

Yachts, being the crown jewels of the maritime world, require a bespoke ensemble of mooring equipment. Familiarize yourself with yacht lines—robust, purpose-built ropes designed to bear the weight and dimensions of these majestic vessels. Explore the intricacies of yacht cleats, specialized fittings strategically placed to handle the forces exerted by large yachts during mooring. Mastery of yacht-specific lines and cleats is the key to a secure and confident mooring experience for vessels of grand stature.

In the realm of yacht mooring, precision and understanding are the compass points guiding the captain. Embrace the challenge of mooring larger vessels with the grace and finesse befitting their stature, ensuring that every connection to the mooring point is a testament to seamanship and mastery of the seas.

Legal and Environmental Considerations

As stewards of the seas, boat owners and sailors bear the responsibility of preserving the marine environment and adhering to local regulations. In the final act of our mooring guide, let's explore the legal and environmental considerations that underscore the importance of responsible seafaring:

Local Regulations

Before casting off into the waves, familiarize yourself with the maritime laws and mooring regulations governing your area. Different regions may have specific guidelines regarding mooring distances, permitted locations, and time restrictions. Adhering to these regulations not only ensures compliance but also fosters a harmonious coexistence with other seafarers and the coastal community.

Environmental Impact

The footprint left by boat mooring extends beyond the vessel itself. Practice responsible mooring to minimize environmental impact and protect delicate marine ecosystems. Avoid dropping anchor in sensitive areas such as coral reefs or seagrass beds. Opt for designated mooring zones when available, and be mindful of the potential repercussions of careless mooring practices. By embracing eco-friendly mooring, you contribute to the preservation of the diverse and fragile underwater world.

In the vast tapestry of maritime adventures, mastering the art of boat mooring emerges as a beacon of skill and responsibility. This guide, spanning the spectrum from fundamental basics to specialized techniques, equips seafarers with the knowledge to navigate the waters with confidence.

Understanding the nuances of boat mooring, employing the right equipment, and applying proper techniques become not just a skill set but a commitment to safety and environmental stewardship. Whether you're setting sail as a novice or as an experienced captain, may this guide serve as your compass, empowering you to embark on every journey with the assurance that your vessel is securely moored, and your impact on the seas is one of respect and care. Safe travels, and may the seas welcome you with open waves.

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• Sailing, Rigging & Deck

How to find the right mooring line for your boat

Mooring lines are used to secure your boat to jetties, pontoons, quays or anchor buoys. Whenever your boat is not in use, mooring lines ensure that your vessel is held safely and securely at the mooring. So, it's important that your mooring lines can reliably hold the weight of your boat and are of good quality. Here, we tell you what you need to look out for when choosing mooring lines.

Table of Contents

• What makes a good mooring line
• Mooring line rope constructions

Mooring line material

• Polypropylene
• What diameter for mooring lines?
• How long must mooring lines be?

Why splice mooring lines?

• What accessories for mooring lines?

What makes a good mooring line?

An important feature of a good mooring line is a high degree of elongation . If the mooring line doesn't have a certain degree of elongation, the movement of the boat caused by wind and waves puts unhindered force on the cleats or grommets on which the rope is fastened to. A mooring line absorbs this kinetic energy, which not only prevents possible damage, it also makes the time spent on board more pleasant. Similarly, a mooring line must have a high breaking force to be able to secure the boat, even in stormy weather and heavy swell. The necessary breaking force depends on the size of the boat. We recommend always being generous when considering breaking force, as even slight chafing will weaken the rope considerably - and there are plenty of places where mooring lines can chafe, such as on fairleads, chocks etc. Mooring lines should therefore be robust. They should also have good flexibility and grip, so that managing the lines, coiling and making knots or splicing is easier. Finally, UV resistance is important. Mooring lines which are left permanently at the berth should not be allowed to become porous or brittle.

What kind of rope constructions are used for mooring lines?

Three different rope constructions are used for mooring lines:

• Twisted rope: With twisted rope two or more strands are twisted around each other. This type of rope is stretchable, can be easily spliced and is cheap to buy. However, it isn't overtly flexible and kinks can develop after some time.
• Square braid: Square braided ropes, also called square lines, are very supple and have the best stretchability of all fender lines. The rope is easy to tie and stow and does not chink. The only disadvantage of square braid is that the rope tends to string.
• Double braid: This rope is particularly robust and supple. Elongation depends on the material, but is usually lower than with square braids.

What material for mooring lines?

The most commonly used mooring lines are made of polyester, polyamide, also known as nylon, and polypropylene. All three materials have their advantages and disadvantages.

Polyester mooring lines

Polyester mooring lines are particularly UV-resistant. Furthermore, in terms of breaking strength, shrinkage and abrasion resistance, polyester lines are superior to those made of polyamide or polypropylene. The material is also relatively cheap, high grip and only absorbs a little water. The only disadvantage of polyester mooring lines is that they are not particularly stretchy. So, you should either use very long mooring lines or a snubber. For a particularly good quality line, we recommend purchasing polyester mooring lines with square braiding. These provide excellent grip, are very elastic and completely free of kinks.

Mooring Compensator

Polypropylene mooring lines

Polypropylene is the lightest of all textile fibres. It absorbs practically no water and is floatable. As a result, mooring lines made of this material are less likely to be caught on the boat propeller when manoeuvring in the harbour. Polypropylene is also very resistant to chemicals. Unfortunately, these ropes are much less UV-resistant, more prone to abrasion, have a lower breaking force and are generally less durable than mooring ropes made of other materials. They should only be used if you need a floatable line (i.e. for towing) and, if possible, only in sheltered berths. As a precaution, order with a larger diameter than necessary.

Polyamide mooring lines

The advantage of polyamide mooring lines is that they yield up to 10% more stretch than polyester ropes. They are the most elastic of all materials used in the manufacture of mooring ropes. For many years, polyamide ropes quickly became very stiff and hence unmanageable. This is because polyamide absorbs a lot of water. In the meantime, however, polyamide lines have now been much improved by manufacturers.

Which diameter for mooring lines?

The right diameter for mooring lines depends on the size of the ship. For yachts with a length of ten metres and a displacement of four to five tonnes, mooring lines with a diameter of 12 to 14 mm are suitable. To determine the necessary diameter of mooring lines for your boat you can use the following table for help:

How long should mooring lines be?

As regards the length of mooring lines, it is recommended to have four lines on board, two in the length of the boat as stern lines and another two approximately twice the length of the boat width for the bow to moor as 'med style' or 'stern to berth' with pillars or lead lines or four boat's length lines to moor bow and stern plus springs. This way you will be well equipped for various ports and moorings. Furthermore, one or two longer lines are recommended to be kept on board, which you can use as manoeuvring or towing lines or as a shore line for lying in a packet. These lines may be at least twice the length of the boat.

A spliced rope has a significantly higher breaking load than a knotted rope. It is recommended to have mooring lines that are precisely made to measure, above all for your regular berth. But a spliced thimble or eye can also be quite useful when sailing. The rope can be attached directly to the ring on the pier or the harbour wall, or it can be coiled and secured by belaying pins without reducing the breaking load of the rope with a bowline. We can supply prefabricated mooring lines with various eye diameters, simple or reinforced stainless-steel thimbles, leather sheathing for reinforcement or spliced-in dampers. You can, of course, also have us configure a mooring line of your choice and have it manufactured according to your specific requirements.

Spliced mooring lines

Which accessories for mooring lines?

So that your mooring line is at hand at when you need it, we offer various hooks and rope holders. Depending on the model, the hooks can either be fixed on board, for example to the bow or stern pulpit, or they can be installed at the jetty, so that you can easily reach your mooring lines at fixed mooring points and manage them easily.

Accessories for mooring lines

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Anchoring & Mooring

With so much investment literally riding on your anchor, your boat's anchoring system is no place to cut corners. your choice of anchor depends on the size and type of your boat, and the weather and anchoring conditions you generally encounter..

Boats with heavy displacements or superstructures that present a great deal of wind resistance need heavier gear. The same is true of cruising yachts that brave a wide variety of conditions and may sometimes have to anchor in open waters.

Although not required by Federal Law, it is recommended you carry one anchor of sufficient size and strength to hold your boat for an extended period, like overnight--or in an emergency situation, such as if you run out of gas. When you are thinking or buying an anchor - BIGGER IS BETTER.

Also, there is safety in numbers. No anchor will work for you in every situation, so if you have space carry two anchors--preferably of different types.Many people choose to carry a small anchor, or "lunch hook", and a larger working or storm anchor. The lunch hook is for use in calm weather and when the crew is monitoring the anchor. Working and storm anchors are useful at times when the crew is asleep or ashore, and during heavy weather, when winds are 30 miles an hour and over.

The general name for all of the equipment you need to anchor your boat is "ground tackle". This includes an anchor, chain, line and connecting elements. The anchor line, including chain, is called the rode.

Playing Hooky

Just as boats come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, so do anchors. Choosing an anchor is easy, choosing the right one for your boat can be very difficult. Your first task in choosing an anchor is to have an understanding of three things:

• Your Boat - Your boats' size, weight and design characteristics affect what kind of anchor you will need to use. For instance, a 30 foot 10,000 pound houseboat needs a larger anchor than a 30 foot 6000 pound speedboat.
• Where You're Going - Where you plan to anchor often dictates what type of anchor you should use. Is the bottom rock, or is it soft mud? If you are not familiar with the area, ask around or look at a local chart.
• Local Conditions - Anchoring in a calm protected cove can be quite different than anchoring offshore or on a large open bay. And don't forget the weather--high winds, tides and waves can all make anchoring difficult, if not impossible.

Anchors are rated by "holding power"--which is the ability of an anchor to hold a given weight. Keep in mind that a 10,000 pound boat may only require an anchor with a holding power of a few hundred pounds on a calm day, but may need 1,000 pounds of holding power or more on a stormy day.

Anchor Types

There are several types of anchors and you should choose a style based on the bottom characteristics in the areas you will anchor most often. Then, choose a size based on the size and weight of your boat.

Lightweight or "Danforth" Anchors

Lightweight type anchor with two long pivoting "flukes"; designed to reduce clogging with mud and grass; range from 2.5 pounds to nearly 200 pounds, and are generally made of cast galvanized metal, though some models are machined from a light-weight aluminum composite. When dropped, flukes dig the anchor into the bottom and the anchor buries itself and part of the anchor line.

Commonly used on small recreational boats, as they are relatively light weight for the amount of holding power they provide, especially in comparison to other anchors. Best in hard sand or mud, where flukes can easily dig into the bottom.

Not recommended for very soft or loose mud, which can ball up around the flukes; or on rocky bottoms where the flukes cannot penetrate. Also not recommended for grassy bottoms, which the flukes tend to slip off.

Kedge or Navy Anchors

A more traditional style anchor with arks, flukes and stock. Good in heavy grass, weeds, rocky bottoms or hard sand where one arm can penetrate a crevice. Not good in mud or loose sand, where flukes can't dig in.

Functions differently than previous anchors as it is not a burying anchor; one arm digs into bottom and one lies exposed. Generally only used by very large ships, as it relies on weight for most of the holding power; not really suitable for recreational use other than for a lunch hook.

Grapnels Anchors

Very inexpensive, but not much holding power. Some models are made of bent re-bar, others are made of galvanized metal and have folding flukes. Good for recovering items on the bottom, or for wreck reef anchoring. Commonly used on very small boats such as canoes or jon boats.

Plow or "CQR/DELTA" Anchors

The plow styles' good holding power over a wide variety of bottom types makes it a top choice of cruising boaters. Has either a fixed (Delta style) or a pivoting (CQR) shank.

When dropped in the water, a plow lands on its side, then when pulled, buries itself. Its shape allows it to reset fairly easily should the wind or tide shift the boat position.

Great in sand and on rocky bottoms, weeds and grass. Does not do well in soft bottoms. Generally made of galvanized metal, though they are available in stainless steel.

Claw or "BRUCE" Anchors

Unique shape of the claw allows a 360 degree turn without breaking out. Has similar performance to plow anchors,at a lower weight.

Sets just like a plow, but curved flukes make it easier for a claw to right itself no matter how it lands on the bottom, or how much the boat gets swung around.

Mushroom Anchors

Mushroom anchors get their name from, as you might imagine, their rounded, mushroom shape. Mushroom anchors are used extensively for moorings, and can weigh several thousand pounds for this use.

The shape works best in soft bottoms, where it can create a suction that can be difficult to break. Decent for very small boats to use as a lunch hook, but not practical for larger boats. Both Buoys and Beacons may have lights attached, and may have a sound making device such as a gong, bell or horn. Both Buoys and Beacons may be called "marks".

Line and Gear

Depending upon the size and type of your boat, and where you anchor--your choices for an anchor line are either an all-rope anchor rode, a combination of rope and chain, or all chain.

Nylon Line in Three-Strand Twist

Three-strand line can absorb shock and the constant tugging associated with anchoring much better than braided line or chain alone. Chain may also be used, especially in anchorages that are primarily rock or coral, which may cut a nylon line. A length of chain should be used between the anchor and a longer length of line. The chain will add weight to set your anchor without making it too heavy to lift manually, while serving to exert a horizontal pull on the anchor to set it.

Nylon Three-Strand line is the leading choice for use as an anchoring line. Lines generally come in a "soft" or "medium" lie. Soft lines are generally softer to the touch, and loosely woven. These aren't as good as medium or hard lines for anchoring, as they are more prone to unraveling and chafing. Tightly wrapped lines are the best choice for anchoring.

Lines that have been treated with a wax-like coating are available. These lines help the line resist water/salt absorption. To help keep your lines in good shape, clean them from time to time by soaking them in soapy water. Never use bleach, as it can break down the line.

Chain may be used instead of nylon line for anchoring. Chain has several benefits, including added weight, chafe and wear resistance, and high strength. It also lowers the angle of pull on the anchor, which helps it to set more firn\mly into the bottom.

Chain is generally found made of galvanized steel, though you can find stainless steel and vinyl coated chain, which is designed to be non-marring to your deck.

Chain comes in three general varieties: "Proof Coil" is the most common, and is adequate for most marine uses. "BBB" ("Triple B" or "3B") chain has thicker, shorter links than proof chain. BBB is slightly stronger than proof chain, and is generally used for windlasses. Finally, "Hi-Test" chain is made of hardened steel, and is stronger and lighter than proof coil. Hi-test chain is favored by those wishing to avoid carrying too much weight.

Combination anchor-rodes consist of both chain and nylon line. You may buy a combination rode, or you may make one yourself. Generally, it is recommended to have either one foot of chain for each foot of boat length, or to have one pound of chain for each pound of anchor length. Which ever method you choose, having more chain than necessary is never a bad idea.

As the saying goes, a chain is only as strong as its' weakest link...Make sure that your anchor and line are attached to each other with adequate gear. Some lines come with plastic thimbles or eyes--but metal, either marine-grade stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized steel, is best. Swivels and shackles should be inspected regularly for wear, and to ensure that the connections are tight and functional.

Scope: Length of the anchor line/ height of the deck cleat to the sea bed.

Before leaving the dock, you will need to determine how much anchor line, or "rode", you will need. It is recommended that you use a scope of 7:1, meaning that for every foot of water depth, you should use 7 feet of rode.

For example, to anchor in 10 feet of water, you would pay out 70 feet of line. Measure the scope as the ratio of the length of the anchor rode to the height of the bow above the bottom. If you're using a lightweight anchor on a small boat in good weather conditions, a shorter scope of 5:1 is sufficient and safe. A prudent boater always has extra line and chain on hand, just in case.

Minimum Working Rode Sizes

Suggested holding sizes assume fair holding ground, scope of at least 5:1 to 10:1, and moderate shelter from high seas.

Boats that operate generally in shallow waters, as on the East Coast of the United States, may get by with shorter rode lengths. As the wind picks up, deploying additional line will help maintain position, as will tossing out an extra anchor.

Setting Anchor

Anchoring can be accomplished quickly and easily by following a few simple steps.

• Check your chart for bottom characteristics and to determine that you are anchoring in a safe and allowable place. If there are rocks, shoals, reefs or other boats to consider, give them all as wide a berth as possible. Remember that other boats will often have different requirements for anchor rode length--larger or taller boats frequently need a great deal of rode. Also, keep in mind a possible swing of 360 degrees about the anchor with wind shifts or current changes.
• If your crew is not already wearing PFDs, have them put one on before going forward to set or retrieve an anchor or mooring.
• Secure the bitter end of the anchor line to a bow cleat. Make sure the line is ready to run free once tossed overboard.
• Head into the wind or current. Reduce speed and reverse the engine. When the boat starts to make a slight sternway through the water, lower - do not throw - the anchor.
• After you've let about a third of your line out, tug the anchor line to see how firmly it's set, and then continue to release the rode.
• Once you let out an appropriate amount of scope, make sure the line is properly tied off on the bow cleat.
• Even if anchoring only in designated anchoring areas, it is always prudent to have the appropriate signal such as an all-around white light on to notify other boats that you are anchored at night. During the day you must display a ball shape which is sized according to the size of your boat.

Staying Put

It's a good idea to take two immediate bearings. Select two items, one off each beam, that form a natural range and watch for any changes in their relationship. You can check these later to determine if you're boat is swinging as expected or if you're dragging anchor.

Picking Up a Mooring

One of the best ways to avoid the hassles of anchoring is to chose a cove or harbor with moorings available for your use. Mooring balls are identified by their white spherical or can shape, and having a blue horizontal band. It may have a number designation, a VHF contact # or name on it. You will typically have to pay a small fee to the harbor master to use a public mooring, but you can count on it being far cheaper than paying for dockage for the night.

Public moorings are professionally maintained and will use a large anchor or helix screw fixture to maintain position. The harbor master will let you know if the weight or length of your boat is too big for that particular mooring. Although moorings are typically more secure than anchors, moorings can and do periodically give way. For this reason, and for the obvious courtesy reasons, you should never pick up and use a mooring that does not belong to you.

Common Anchoring Mistakes

• Letting the anchor go with out securing the line to the boat.
• Letting the anchor go with your foot wrapped in the anchor line.
• Poor communication between the captain and person on the foredeck.
• Approach a mooring from downwind. This will give you better maneuverability as you go to secure your boat to the ball.
• Go slow, so as not to disturb those already moored.
• After putting on PFDs, send a crew member to the bow with a boat hook to grab the eye or the base of the mooring ball.
• Once the mooring ball is at the bow--slow, stop or gently reverse engines to halt forward motion. Use your crew to relay distance information if it is difficult for the skipper to see where the mooring ball is in relation to the boat.
• Loop the mooring line over one or both of your bow cleats. Pay attention to the possibility of chafing. You may want to use your own line to attach to the mooring ball if the one provided is dirty.
• Some moorings may have an antenna like device called 'whip.' This is simply an extension of the ball so you don't have to reach as far to haul in the mooring line.
• Once secure, let the boat drift back and be sure that you are clear of those who have moored or anchored around you. There is no need to 'back down' on a mooring ball.
• Leaving a mooring is easy--just motor or pull up gently to the ball and release the mooring line from your boat. You can then either drift back or maneuver forward to clear yourself of the ball and the associated ground tackle.

Finally, never ever anchor a small boat by the stern! Your engine, and the bulk of the boat's weight rest here. Stern anchoring is likely to result in swamping and flooding.

MOORING  SYSTEMS

BESPOKE SOLUTIONS FOR SAFE

AND HASSLE-FREE DOCKING

At C-SPLICE, we understand that mooring lines are a critical component of any vessel's safety and functionality. That's why we offer a wide range of high-quality lines that are not only secure and sustainable, but also easy to handle and affordable.

Our team of experts has years of on-board experience with large superyachts and various types of vessels, giving us the knowledge and insight to provide targeted solutions that meet the specific needs of each yacht. We take the time to ask the right questions and carefully consider every detail, ensuring that each mooring system we provide is an exact fit.

With a variety of brands, constructions, and setups to choose from, we have the flexibility to provide tailor-made solutions that meet your unique requirements. Whether you need a single line or a complete mooring system, we have the expertise and resources to deliver the perfect solution every time.

Function, design , and excellence in both,

set the benchmarks of our work.

CONSTRUCTIONS &   MATERIALS

Braided PES cover & core

Great flexibility & stretch

High strength & abrasion resitance, even when wet

Long service life

12-strand braided polyester, no core

High strength & lower stretch

Excellent abrasion & UV resistance

DOUBLE-BRAID 

Round Plait

Dyneema core & PES cover

Good flexibility, no stretch

Very high breaking loads allow for smaller diameters

Light & easy to handle

Always combine with stretchers (sacfrifical loops)

8-strand braided polyester, no core

Extremely robust & durable

Excellent grip

High UV resistance

Does not harden

Square Plait

COMMON CONFIGURATIONS

POLYESTER LINES

WITH CHAFE PROTECTION

Double-braided polyester mooring lines are the go-to choice for yachts of all sizes with conveniently sized winches, offering excellent performance at a great price point. They remain soft and flexible throughout their service life and maintain their breaking strength when wet, making them a practical and reliable option.

To ensure your mooring lines last even longer, we offer a range of chafe covers to suit every budget and style. Whether you need heavy-duty protection or a more budget-friendly option, we have the perfect solution for you.

Check our selection of chafe covers below and send us your quote request today to get started!

BALLISTIC NYLON

HAND-STITCHED LEATHER

CHAFE PROTECTION OPTIONS  

Our bestseller: The durable and modern C-SPLICE ballistic Nylon cover. Our clients value it above all for its excellent price-performance ratio. Its double-layered construction with multiple reinforced seams of heavy-duty outdoor thread ensure that it can withstand even the toughest conditions. Plus, its technical fabric adds a modern touch to your mooring lines. Experience excellent mooring line protection at fantastic value.

Ultimate strength and style. Made from the world's strongest fiber, these braided covers offer unbeatable abrasion resistance while allowing the line to maintain its full flexibility. And with their sleek and sophisticated look, Dyneema sleeve covers are the perfect match for the modern aesthetics of superyachts. But it's not just about looks – our covers are integrated into the spliced eye of the line and sewn securely at the ends for maximum durability and protection. Wherever you're docking, you can trust these Dyneema sleeve covers to keep your mooring lines safe and looking great.

Abrasion-resistant marine leather, hand-stitched with strong braided twine. These covers offer excellent form stability and crease resistance - they do not crumple and always stay in place, ensuring that the strained parts of the mooring line eye are protected throughout its service life. With proven performance and a classic look, our hand-stitched leather covers are a great choice for any yacht. Plus, their mid-range price point offers great value for money.

Recommended

PROTECTION OPTIONS

for both stretchers and mooring line eyes

MAXIMUM STRENGTH

AT MINIMAL BULK

These high-tech lines are the ultimate solution for large or medium-sized yachts with smaller winches. Featuring a fantastic strength-to-diameter ratio, they provide maximum strength at greatly reduced line diameters.

While the outer polyester cover provides excellent abrasion and UV resistance, ensuring durability and longevity, the secret lies in the Dyneema core – it is stronger than steel, yet incredibly lightweight.

Dyneema core lines are a favourite among deck crews for good reason. They are significantly lighter and take up less space than traditional polyester lines, making them a breeze to handle and store. Say goodbye to heavy, bulky lines that are difficult to manage, and hello to the convenience and ease of these high-tech lines.

Our team is happy to help you select the optimal diameter and configuration for your yacht's specific needs and specifications.

SACRIFIC I AL LOOPS

Dyneema core lines have close to zero stretch and therefore require the addition of Stretchers  (also called Sacrificial Loops or Mooring Tails) when used as mooring lines.

The double-braid polyester Stretchers in this configuration offer the elongation needed in a mooring system. They act as shock absorbers and take on the abrasion strain from the mooring bollards. When they are worn or damaged, they can easily be replaced, while the more costly Dyneema core lines remain intact.

CHAFE PROTECTION

For maximum flexibility in any configuration with Loops, we recommend the Nylon or Dyneema protection options for both stretchers and mooring line eyes.

DYNEEMA CORE LINES

WITH STRETCHERS

LINE IDENTIFICATORS & FINISHES

LENGTH MARKERS & WHIPPING

We add embroidered length markers and/or whippings of any colour to allow you to identify each line on first glance.

We aim for a high-quality, durable and elegant finish from splice to whipping.

with NFC Tags

If you want to easily look up all the specifications of your lines, keep track of when and where you bought them, and access safety and maintenance instructions without searching, NFC Tags are for you. We insert them into your line and a quick scan with your phone reveals all the info you need.

REQUEST YOUR QUOTE TODAY

Send us one of the Quote Forms you can download above or simply contact us via email with the details of what you need. Also, let us know where you would like to receive your mooring lines – we ship to wherever you are.

EVERY YACHT IS UNIQUE.

AND SOME ARE NOT.

UNSURE WHICH OPTION TO CHOOSE? ASK US .

We are happy to offer advice. Experience has taught us what to look out for  in specific builds and bespoke yachts of all sizes.

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With a global network of premium rope manufacturers, we can offer you the best mooring lines based off your budget and/ or requirements.   Our industry experience from working onboard superyachts and within the supply chain provides us with the knowledge and expertise to offer advice on all mooring lines and tender tow lines for superyachts. Whether it is outfitting a new build, replacing existing worn mooring lines, or expanding your selection onboard, no enquiry is too big for us!  

Heaving Lines

A safe alternative to a traditional monkey's fist, using a weighted leather bag and line.

Mooring Line Splicing

Spliced protected eyes as standard for easy-to-use mooring applications.

Bespoke Labelling

Opt. for our Bespoke Labelling so you can easily know which mooring line to choose.

Leather Chafe Protection

All our mooring lines with spliced eyes come as standard with leather chafe protection.

TESTIMONIAL

"Polaris Yacht Supply recently supplied me with six new mooring lines for SY Atao. From start to finish, my experience with Polaris Yacht Supply was exceptional, and I couldn't be more satisfied with the service they provided.

First and foremost, the quality of the mooring lines I received were of the highest standard. The lines are sturdy, durable and expertly crafted, providing me with the confidence and peace of mind I need when securing the yacht. Polaris Yacht Supply clearly pays attention to detail and ensures that their products meet the highest standards of excellence.  Moreover, the entire process of working with Polaris Yacht Supply was seamless and efficient. The company demonstrated a deep understanding of the yacht's specific needs and requirements, offering personalised solutions that perfectly matched the yacht's specifications.  They consistently communicated with me promptly, keeping me informed about the progress of my order and ensuring timely delivery. The entire transaction was hassle-free, and their commitment to customer satisfaction was evident throughout. I whole heartedly recommend Polaris Yacht Supply to anyone in need of yacht equipment and supplies. Their dedication to delivery high-quality products, combined with their exceptional service, sets them apart from the competition. I have no doubt that I will be returning to Polaris Yacht Supply for any future needs that may arise." Captain, SY Atao

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Mooring: A guide to coming alongside, rafting & traditional skills

• Norman Kean
• September 24, 2021

Understanding traditional mooring skills like how to tie up alongside a wall or between piles, raft up or even dry out can give you the option of escaping the marina ‘car parks’, says Norman Kean

Learning traditional mooring skills will open up cruising grounds. Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

With most leisure craft now accommodated alongside marina pontoons , sailors may be wary of attempting traditional mooring techniques to secure a boat, despite many of them being easy if you know how.

Norman Kean, Fellow of the Royal Institute of Navigation, edits the Irish Cruising Club’s Sailing Directions . He and wife, Geraldine sail a Warrior 40

Some mooring tricks are not to be recommended, however. We used to own a 17-tonne steel ketch whose deep-fin keel had a wide flat base. The previous owners anchored over a sandy bottom then fell asleep in the sun on a falling tide. They woke to find the boat upright on her keel in 2ft of water.

She did it again once for us, but we knew the tide had only 3 inches to drop when she ran aground. But let’s describe mooring techniques that are safe and commonly practised around the British Isles .

Mooring alongside a solid pier

On a quay wall, the issues are rise and fall, swell, tidal or river current, and the shape of the pier surface in contact with the boat.

Bow and stern lines need to be taken well forward and aft respectively along the pier; the more the rise and fall, the further in each direction.

The idea is to keep the angle of the lines shallow so that they don’t get too tight and don’t need to be adjusted. Spring lines would need to be equally long, and if you look at how any local fishing boats are tied up you may find they don’t have any.

When mooring alongside a quay, use long bow, stern and spring lines. The greater the tidal range, the longer they will need to be. Credit: Phyllida Stone

You may also find that they tend to lie away from the quayside in any tide ; this can be achieved by judicious lashing of the helm, so that the tidal or river stream works to your advantage. It’s trial and error, so try it on both flood and ebb if possible.

Piers and quaysides come with a variety of surfaces. The best, as at Scalasaig in Colonsay, is close-planking in wood with recessed ladders. Wicklow has an interesting arrangement with wide horizontal planks at intervals with three-inch gaps, so the quay wall has, in effect, a continuous ladder.

The usual surface is stone or concrete, with steel ladders set in recesses. All of the above require good conventional fendering .

Fendering arrangements need to be adapted. Protrusions like ladders or piles are not easy to protect against and are best avoided. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Ladders also provide a very handy aid to mooring alongside. One crew member, standing amidships, grabs the ladder and ties a midships line round it, then clambers up to catch the bow and stern lines.

Once the midships line is tied, the boat is secured and can easily be controlled from the helm while the bow and stern lines are made fast. However, beware of that midships line. It’s temporary. If you forget about it and the tide’s falling, you could easily get ‘hung up’, dangling from it; not a good place to be.

If the tide’s rising, you could just as easily find the boat listing mysteriously towards the wall. Because the rope isn’t obvious, that’s much more difficult to diagnose – been there, done that. I was once in the Confessional column, entitled ‘Hung Down’. I still treasure the Mike Peyton cartoon.

Of course, short bow and stern lines can also leave you hung up.

But given that you have long lines fore and aft, how do you deal with getting ashore and back aboard, when otherwise your aim is to have the boat lie away from the pier?

Fenderboards are essential for quays with piles or rough surfaces. Ideally, leave ladders clear for others to see. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Double a line through the ladder at some convenient point and leave it slack or completely loose at one end, but brought back aboard with sufficient length.

Obviously this is more challenging with a north Brittany range and it may need to be moved up and down a few times, but with a more modest rise and fall it’s not difficult.

More challenging surfaces include rough stone, which just demands better fendering, and projecting ladders that are not set into recesses.

The answer to those is to put the bow or stern beside them, rather than the midships. The getting-ashore line is a little trickier but it can be worked out.

The important thing is to be sure that when you leave the boat or settle down for the night, the boat can’t come into contact with the ladder. One way or the other, if it happens to be the only ladder, it’s also not good form to block it.

Rigging fenders horizontally helps against vertical hazards such as ladders. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Adjust lines to pull the boat out of the way, once you’re done with the ladder. Piled structures, or steel cofferdam facings, are much trickier.

A fender board is essential here but depending on the spacing of piles and the rise and fall, that may not be enough – a piled structure is best avoided. Given that with long slack bow and stern lines the boat can move a bit fore and aft, it is important to avoid a pier experiencing swell.

Surge can snap mooring lines like thread, and the merciless jolting, snatching and creaking makes life very uncomfortable.

Drying moorings, whether for residents or visitors, tend to be much cheaper, making bilge-keelers a more affordable option. Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

Fenders may pop out upwards or sideways with rise and fall or surge, and if the boat can’t be persuaded to lie away from the wall, there’s no easy answer short of running a line from the bottom eye of a fender right under the boat and securing it tight on the opposite side.

Unless, that is, you’re carrying one or two old tyres (wrapped in some kind of fender socks), which don’t tend to pop out.

Mooring between piles or alongside a boom

A number of small harbours or rivers still offer pile moorings. Credit: Alamy

With piles, it’s unwise to secure the bow line first. Approach from the leeward side and against any current or tidal stream, with a line attached to the aft mooring cleat and brought amidships.

Bring the boat close enough to secure the end of the stern line to the first pile.

Adjust lines to put the boat in the middle. Credit: Sarah Norbury

Then motor slowly up to the second pile (taking care to keep the slack of the stern line away from the prop) and secure the bow line, and finally adjust the lines to hold the boat midway between the piles.

Much the same technique is advised with mooring alongside a boom, but the windward side is easier because the securing points at each end are harder to reach.

Mooring tip: Getting a line through a ring on a pile isn’t easy. Go against the tide and start with the stern line.

18 boats rafted at an Irish Cruising Club rally. Note the raft is moored to the pier on the left and the buoy on the right, with the centre trot tied to the ones on either side

Rafting up is a handy way of avoiding having to deal with rise and fall, and is often the only option for an alongside berth when piers and pontoons are crowded.

It can be a sociable experience; we have made many friends in raft-ups. There are some basic rules.

• Always try to raft up to a boat that is bigger than yours. A heavy boat rafted outside a smaller, lighter one can place undue pressure on the smaller boat’s hull and mooring lines.
• Ask permission whenever possible. If rafting to a fishing vessel, find out when she’s leaving – it could be 0400. If there’s nobody aboard, ask around the harbour.
• Even if the inside boat is well fendered on its outboard, set up your own fenders too.
• Put out shore lines of your own fore and aft, and bow and stern lines and springs to the boat inside you.
• When crossing another yacht to get ashore, always walk round the foredeck, forward of the mast.
• Always be prepared to allow a boat on the inside to leave.
• It is ungenerous and unseamanlike to refuse to have another boat raft up to you, provided that the above conditions are met, and the raft isn’t big enough already.
• If you’re leaving early, let the new arrival know.
• Fenders hung on your seaward side say ‘You may raft up to me’.

Getting ashore can sometimes be a problem, particularly if rafted to a large fishing vessel, or several of them.

If they are lying away from the wall it may not be possible to heave the whole raft close enough to reach the ladder safely.

It can also be a matter of clambering up tyre fenders hung from the pier.

All lines rigged correctly, with the raft sitting off the wall. Getting ashore may be easier by dinghy. Credit: Lester McCarthy

To allow a boat inside you to leave, the usual procedure is to take your bow and stern lines to the pier or pontoon (or the boat nearer it), with either your stern line being led ahead of the leaving boat or your bow line led astern of her.

The leaving boat then lets go all your lines aboard it and slips out: you take in the slack on your lines and reset spring lines.

If conditions are difficult or all else fails, simply cast off and come alongside again once the leaving boat has gone.

Mooring tip: Whenever possible, rig shorelines of your own to avoid stressing the inside boat’s deck fittings. Credit: Ben Meakins

Some very big rafts can be organised – I’ve seen 15 boats rafted up in one trot at a big race event – but normally, three or four is a comfortable limit.

Sometimes a ‘sunflower raft’ is organised at a big rally, with boats rafted in a circle bows-out and anchors set by every third or fourth boat.

A sunflower of 191 is believed to be the record, set by the Clyde Cruising Club in 1985 in Loch Drumbuie in Argyll.

Mooring skills: Drying out

Bilge keels.

Bilge keelers can access harbours others can’t, but still require an even and flat seabed. Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

A bilge keel boat clearly has the advantage of being able to dry out upright. The dos and don’ts are fairly obvious:

• A flat, or nearly flat, regular surface is called for – hard sand is ideal. Rock and boulders are to be avoided. Mud is fine so long as you have no plans to get ashore.
• There is a risk of bumping on the bottom as the boat is drying out and refloating, if there is any swell, or passing traffic creating wash. Not a problem in soft mud.
• Consider how you’re going to get off and on the boat. Will you need a ladder?
• If the surface is a bit muddy, leave a bucket of water handy to clean your boots when you come aboard.
• If leaving the boat, lay out an anchor, just in case you don’t get back in time.
• Remember that when the boat’s dried out, you won’t be able to use the heads!

Lifting keels

Mooring tip: Keep revs low and check strainers to prevent debris being sucked into the engine cooling. Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

Like bilge keels, a lifting keel allows the boat to dry out upright. All the same considerations apply as for bilge keels, but also make sure the rudder will be OK.

On a muddy bottom, the mud can start oozing up into the heads and the engine cooling intake, and it’s wise to close seacocks – but don’t forget to open them again!

Remember that when motoring in very shallow water with the keel up, sand and mud can get sucked into the engine cooling water strainer.

Keep the revs down and check the strainer afterwards.

Legs allow fin-keeled boats to dry out on seabeds firm enough to support the load. Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

If your boat is equipped with legs, most of the same principles as for bilge keels apply. A soft muddy bottom is unsuitable.

The boat should rest on one leg and the keel, so if the legs are adjustable, make sure they aren’t too long.

If the bottom is a bit soft, a leg can be inserted into a metal bucket on a lanyard to spread the load.

If there’s a preferred side of lean, put heavy weights like water or fuel cans on that side of the boat.

Drying out against a quay wall

Drying out alongside requires someone aboard to adjust lines, but lets you stay in harbours away from the crowds. Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

This technique is handy for quick underwater maintenance jobs – clearing a fouled prop, scrubbing and even antifouling .

It can have its drawbacks if you’re planning to stay aboard overnight, though.

A suitable bottom is always required; hard sand or concrete are ideal (a slipway is usually OK if you’re not going to block it), or shingle.

Mud can be difficult in terms of getting the work done. The bottom shouldn’t slope away too steeply from the wall, and there clearly shouldn’t be any obstructions like large stones or concrete blocks.

In an unfamiliar place, local knowledge is essential in this regard (I once asked a fisherman if a spot on the wall would be a good place to dry out and he said, ‘Ah no, you’d want the hospital for that’).

Mooring tip: On a fin-keeled boat, tight bow and stern lines protect the boat from tipping forward or aft. Credit: Theo Stocker

You need some means of getting down there when the tide’s out, but that’s not usually a problem.

For some jobs, the boat doesn’t have to dry out completely.

The underwater profile of the boat needs to be considered. A long keel boat will always dry out safely but may lie bows-down.

Continues below…

How to raft up safely and securely

James Stevens looks at the seamanship and etiquette needed to raft up and identifies the benefits and pitfalls of coming…

Going astern with twin, long and fin keels

Different hull types demand different tactics. Tom Cunliffe shows you how to avoid embarrassment next time you’re at the helm…

Sailing around Britain and Ireland: All you need to know

Sailing around Britain and Ireland and into its nooks and crannies is always an interesting endeavour. You get to know…

How and where to go wild cruising in the UK

Planning to spend the night away from crowded waters can 
be truly rewarding but preparation is essential before you go…

With a fin keel , the boat will almost always sit happily on it, but with a very narrow fin (fore and aft) it may be wise to keep heavy weights and people away from bow and stern.

Lines can be rigged to the pier to protect against the risk of the boat tipping forward or back.

With a wing keel, or even a wide fin (side to side) with a flat bottom, the boat may tend to resist leaning in to the wall, and the mast may have to be hauled in quite hard (see below) to get her past her tipping point or at least secure her.

The author’s Warrior 40 heeling towards the quay using a halyard to prevent the boat from falling outwards. Credit: Norman Kean

On a level bottom, it can be best to let a boat like that sit upright, but the mast must be really well secured.

If a keel surface is GRP rather than metal, it is important to avoid drying out on a hard obstruction.

The actual process will vary depending on the location, the boat, and the tidal range, but a few general principles always apply:

• Don’t ground the boat too soon after high water – you want to be sure she floats off on the next tide.
• Rig long bow and stern lines to cope with the falling tide, and set plenty of fenders.
• Before the boat takes the ground, take a halyard (a spinnaker halyard is ideal) as far as possible out across the pier (extend it if necessary) and make it fast to something secure – make sure nobody is likely to drive through it. The wider the angle between the taut line and the mast, the better. Winch in the halyard to give the boat a bit of a list towards the wall, but mind the stanchions and the capshrouds. As the tide falls, keep the tension on the halyard. I have seen a five-gallon drum of water tied to a halyard and hung over the far side of the pier, but I’ve also seen a boat secured like that tip away from the wall, dragging the drum with her, and land (fortunately with only a splash, and on a rising tide), still aground and with a 30-degree list. The dog got the fright of his life and the front-opening fridge painted the cabin sole with yogurt.
• Once most boats are aground and leaning a few degrees, they will be quite stable – but keep that halyard tied. If you are concerned that a wing keel boat may want to spring upright again and perhaps fall outwards, set a second halyard. n Once the boat is within a few inches of floating again, releasing the halyard(s) won’t be risky, because if she does roll away from the wall, she won’t roll far. But if you refloat and forget about the halyard(s) you’ll obviously have a problem.
• Heavy weights can be placed on the side deck to induce a heel, but it’s not secure.

Two more cautionary tales. An eminent yachtsman of our acquaintance, sadly no longer with us, once dried his boat out and draped a heavy anchor on a halyard over the parapet wall on the far side of the quay. Self-adjusting, of course.

Hours later, he and his crew returned to the boat, threw off the lines and headed out, forgetting about the halyard. The anchor hopped over the wall and landed on the bonnet of a new BMW.

Long-keeled boats are usually happy to dry out. Some may lie in a slightly bows-down attitude. Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

We once found ourselves, in a borrowed boat, hard aground on a falling tide, 12 feet away from a stone pier, after allowing a boat inside us to slip out.

I rowed an anchor out on a halyard and pulled her down, away from the wall, and she developed a 30 degree list at low water.

Obviously being from the only yacht around, we got some funny looks in the pub, to which our response was ‘unorthodox, but very secure’.

Drying out against scrubbing posts isn’t a problem, but there are fewer securing points and fendering needs careful attention. Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

We hadn’t heeled on the overnight low tide, so we must have been leaning on the inside boat (a Galway hooker, she was well able to take the weight).

I still don’t understand why the echo sounder showed enough water.

Many harbours off the beaten track don’t offer specific moorings for yachts, so going alongside is the only option. Credit: Norman Kean

When drying out against piles, the main issues are fendering and access to the bottom.

In this case the halyard can be attached to an anchor. Fender boards and a ladder may be necessary. Tyre fenders are good for this and any drying-out situation, and they don’t tend to pop out.

Mooring skills: Careening

Careening is simply going aground deliberately, at a safe spot. Make sure you heel the boat away from deeper water to dry out more uprights, and a kedge anchor in deeper water will help pull you out. Credit: Geraldine Hennigan

Careening is the ancient art of drying a vessel out on a beach for maintenance or repair.

Large old sailing ships would normally lie with a modest list, and most modern ships would dry out bolt upright, but single-keeled yachts lie on their bilges, nearer horizontal than vertical.

The main concerns are:

• Choose the surface very carefully – smooth sand is almost the only option.
• Even more than for bilge keels, avoid places where there may be swell. You don’t want the bilges to be banging off the sand.
• Make sure she’ll float before she fills. Most modern, beamy boats will be safe, but older, narrower boats might not, especially if they don’t have self-draining cockpits. If in doubt, don’t do it.
• Make sure that nothing can crash about inside when she reaches a severe angle, and don’t forget the anchor.

Many boats are careened unintentionally when they break their moorings or run aground and end up on a sandbank.

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The 6 Best Dock Lines (and Boat Springs) for Securing Vessels

MaOne of the most essential elements of any boat is the quality of the dock lines . They stop your prized possession from drifting away from the jetty and into the great beyond.

A good dock line will keep your vessel secure in all weathers and will last no matter what the elements have to throw at them.

So, if you're looking to upgrade your dock lines or are simply trying to make the right choice, look no further and read this article to get the lowdown on the best dock and mooring lines for boats.

How to Choose the Best Dock Line for Your Boat

Choosing the right dock line comes down to four elements: the size of your boat, the thickness of the rope, the length of the rope and the configuration you use when docking.

Once you've established these four things, you can be sure that you have chosen the best dock line for your boat.

Boat Size vs. Rope Thickness

The general rule of thumb for choosing the best size mooring line is roughly 1/8 of an inch in diameter for every 9 feet of length . For smaller craft, this is an easy decision.

There aren't any rules that state you can't have a dock line that's twice the required thickness. After all, whatever happens, it isn't going to snap.

In relation to rope thickness, here's a basic rule of length and weight to consider:

• Boats 19.5 - 33 feet - 2,200 - 20K pounds | 10 - 14 mm thick
• Boats 39.5 - 59 feet - 28 - 55K pounds | 16 - 20 mm thick
• Boats over 59 feet - 55K pounds | 24 mm thick

How Long Should My Dock Line Be?

It's generally accepted that you should keep four lines on your boat : two the same length as your boat and two lines at 2/3s the length of your boat.

For example, if you have a 26-foot vessel, you should have two 26-foot dock lines and another two at roughly 17 feet in length.

Let's Talk Dock Line Configurations and Springs

There are many ways to configure your dock lines to secure your craft and spread the load apportioned to each rope. But here I'll share the most common.

Referred to as springs, they act as a damper to a boat's forward and backward motion as it moves against waves or passing vessels. A good spring enables the load placed on the dock line to spread the weight and movement, preventing the boat from clattering violently back and forth or hitting the dock sides.

Take a look at the several springs you could deploy:

• After Quarter Spring - This is where the dock line is fed from the stern of the boat, in an outward direction away from the vessel at roughly 45 degrees.
• Quarter Breast   Spring  - These lines run at right angles to the dock cleats.
• Forward Quarter Spring  - This is where a dock line is fed from the stern and secured to a cleat located in the center of the pontoon. Again, the rope is at a 45-degree angle.
• After Bow Spring  - This is the reverse of the Forward Quarter Spring, with the dock line reaching from the bow at 45 degrees, and meeting in the center of the vessel.
• Forward Breast Spring  - This is the same as the Quarter Breast Spring but tied from the bow of the boat at a right angle.
• Forward Spring  - A rope is tied at a 45-degree angle, heading away from the boat.

Springs are important, but you wouldn't want to employ all of these at the same time. Not only would it be time-consuming, but it would also be completely pointless and considered overkill.

You should tie one at the bow and stern, and then use a Quarter Spring both fore and aft.

The Important Cleat Hitch

The cleat hitch is widely accepted as the best knot to secure your boat to a jetty or mooring where there are cleats . It's one of the easiest knots to tie, but far from simple if you want to get it right. Done properly, it would take a minor disaster for your vessel to become unhitched.

Pass the line entirely around the base of the cleat under the horns. Then, make a figure-eight over the left and right horn. To secure, turn the rope under itself to make a half hitch.

You should not require any further winding or looping as it does nothing to improve the effectiveness of the knot. In fact, should you need to cast off in an emergency, you run the risk of making it harder to unhitch with over-complicated twists. Just leave it as it is in its own simple and elegant state.

Best Rope Material

• Nylon  - This is by far the best choice for dock line as it's relatively cheap compared to other types, is elastic enough to absorb the weight and movement of your boat and is UV resistant. All in all, if you want excellent shock absorbency, choose nylon.
• Polypropylene  - This dock line is the cheapest of them all, and it shows. It does have attributes. It floats, for one thing, making it ideal should you need to retrieve it from the water. It does offer some UV resistance. However, it doesn't last as long as nylon and lacks the elasticity needed to absorb all that movement. Polypropylene is a great alternative if you're looking for the cheapest option, but it could be a false economy.

The 6 Best Dock Lines for Securing Vessels

It comes as no surprise that the best dock and mooring lines I have featured are all nylon, given its popularity and reasonable cost. It's also the material I prefer for my dock lines.

Through this list, I'll demonstrate that nylon dock lines don't have to break the bank. Although more expensive varieties are available, I have divided the ropes into budget and premium sections.

Editor's Choice

  Check Price on Amazon - Made of marine-grade double-braided nylon, Better Boat Dock Lines have a working load of 950 lbs and a b reaking strength of 4,939 lbs.

These 1/2 inch dock lines are 25 feet long and have a 12-inch heat-treated eyelet at the end. Superior shock absorption and elasticity keep boats secure in high winds and rough waters. You can even use it to hang boat fenders  or for tent tie-downs while camping.

This dock line falls nicely between a budget and premium dock line in price, so it's really a win/win as far as quality, price, strength and durability go. 

• Material: Nylon
• Thickness Range: 1/2 inch
• Length Range: 25 ft

Runner Up Dock Lines

Shoreline double-braided nylon dock line.

Check price on Amazon Shoreline dock lines are available in four colors: black, blue, gold and white. Without kinking or rotating under pressure, they have a dedicated loop on one end and a straight end on the other. This lets you decide what configuration you want to use when tying the boat to the dock.

Soft to the touch, these lines won't rub or scrape your boat. And because they're double-braided Nylon, they're super-strong with a load capacity of 1,140 pounds and a tensile breaking load of 5,700 pounds . That's enough to weather heavy conditions .

• Material : Nylon
• Thickness Range : 1/2 - 3/8 in
• Length Range : 15 - 25 ft

Crown Sporting Goods Double-Braided Dock Line

These Crown lines are available in black, blue, red and white, making them easily visible as they match your vessel's color combinations.

This rope is available in a 3/8-inch diameter and a length of 15 feet , which means it's ideal for a boat of a maximum size of 25 feet .

The double-braided Nylon construction can withstand load pressures of up 3,200 pounds and is also UV, abrasion and mildew resistant .

I like this rope, especially for docking smaller craft .

• Thickness Range : 3/8 in
• Length Range : 25 ft

Seachoice Nylon Dock Line

This Seachoice range is available in eight color combinations , ranging from vibrant red to black.

It's been designed to absorb dynamic shock loads , spreading the load's distribution through elasticity. It's mildew and mold resistant and comfortable on the hands.

This line has a working load capacity of 800 pounds with a maximum tensile load of 4,000 pounds , making it capable of securing a vessel of around 4,400 pounds.

• Thickness Range : 1/2 - 5/8 in
• Length Range : 20 - 35 ft

Amarine Made Nylon Dock Line

These Amarine lines are available in black, blue, white and a white/gold combo and have a load capacity of 968 pounds with a breaking capacity of 4,840 pounds .

This line is resistant to chemicals , acids, saltwater and UV rays, making it an ideal line for securing small to medium-size vessels .

• Thickness Range : 1/2 in

Premium Dock Lines

Seasense double-braided dock line.

This SeaSense dock line is intended for use with vessels that are at the lighter end of the spectrum (think: dinghy or small fishing boat). It has a 410-pound load capacity with a breaking strength of 3,900 pounds .

The eyelet is 10 inches in diameter. T his rope offers the elasticity that all good nylon ropes should have.

It comes in black, blue and a gold sheened white, making the springs and lines easily visible in poor conditions .

Because it's inexpensive compared to other lines, it may be the ideal choice for beginner boaters .

• Length : 15 - 25 ft

Norestar Double-Braided Dock Line

Norestar lines are extremely robust and have a high breaking strength. The 1/2-inch diameter rope has a breaking load pressure of 8,300 pounds , while the 3/4-inch thickness has a tensile load capacity of 19,100 pounds . That means it will hold a vessel of over 18,000 pounds!  

These dock lines are also abrasion-proof and UV resistant, so they should withstand the elements. 

• Length Range : 15 - 50 ft

Final Thoughts

Never underestimate the importance of a good quality dock line . It's one of the most important tools any boater can have.

Choose a cheap dock line at your peril, especially if you leave your boat docked for the winter when the weather is at its worst.

In addition, consider the boat docking or mooring line's best working capacity, maximum breaking strength and shock-absorbing qualities.

Once you have all this checked, make sure that you remember the rule about 1/8th of an inch in diameter for every 9 feet of boat length , and you won't go wrong.

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Anchoring clearance, standing rigging clearance, running rigging clearance, deck hardware clearance, chandlery clearance, safety clearance.

Jimmy Green Marine offer a wide range of LIROS ropes for mooring lines, warps and docklines .

To determine the correct rope for your individual requirements, it will first be helpful to consider whether the line will be single or multi-purpose. A multi-purpose solution may involve some compromise, but not necessarily a reduction in suitability or quality as many rope properties are quite similar.

Budget and stowage constraints may dictate how many ropes are designated for specific tasks and how many are conveniently handy for deployment across a range of different mooring situations.

Personal choice is a big factor: what you and your crew are familiar and comfortable with is very important. The Jimmy Green Rigging Team are on hand to advise on the relative merits and disadvantages of the rope that you normally prefer, and they can suggest suitable alternatives if you wish to explore your options.

General Guide for determining the size of your Mooring Lines

Factor in Length: Displacement Ratio, Mono/Multihull, Mooring Configuration, Exposure

The Main Factors to consider in selecting your mooring rope

Stretch Factor – mooring lines need to absorb snatch loads and maintain the capacity to elongate and recover without suffering premature stress failure. Polyester has the required amount of working stretch for mooring. Polypropylene stretches a little more than polyester. Nylon is the most elastic of the three materials, approximately 5-10% more elongation than polyester. Remember that the ability to absorb surge loads can be enhanced with mooring compensators.

Strength and Durability – mooring ropes need to manage the substantial strain experienced in securing a yacht in your chosen configuration (the number of ropes that effectively divide the load) so relative diameter and break load are important factors. Nylon is initially the strongest mooring rope but it is a widely held belief that it loses 10-15% when thoroughly wet which brings it back to relative parity with polyester. Polyester has better UV resistance than nylon which means that it builds a small advantage each season resulting in a longer working life. Polypropylene is not comparable to the other two materials and should not be considered unless stepping up in diameter.

Abrasion Resistance – depends on what the rope is made from, how it is manufactured and to a lesser extent, the finished construction. Polyester and Nylon have comparable performance while Polypropylene is again a distant third. LIROS employ heat setting technology and special twisting techniques on the fundamental filaments and yarns to enhance wear performance.

Nylon shrinks when it is wet resulting in a tightening of the rope strands creating a harder, stiffer rope. This can be of benefit for permanent single purpose warps.

Comfort – rope construction and diameter make a difference to comfort, especially for more delicate hands. Braided Docklines are commonly regarded as the most flexible, luxurious handling rope for mooring. 8 strand Anchorplait/Octoplait ropes are also flexible and comfortable to handle. 3 strand rope is generally regarded as less kind to the hands but is probably still the best all round choice for most mooring applications.

Handling, Coiling and Hanking - rope construction dictates how you should hank a rope into a coil for stowing and throwing/heaving. 3 strand rope needs to be rolled around your thumb to keep the lay in regular form. Braided and Plaited ropes should be allowed to form a natural or figure of eight shape to ensure that you are not imparting twist into the rope.

UV Resistance – Everything degrades in the sun. The speed at which the deterioration occurs depends on what the rope is manufactured from. Polyester is best with nylon a reasonable second and polypropylene a distant third. UV stabilising techniques help but don’t significantly alter the general comparable resistance values of each substance. Counteracting UV deterioration should be a major consideration for yachts in the Mediterranean and the Tropics.

Buoyancy - Polyester and Nylon both sink. Polyester is slightly heavier than nylon. Polypropylene floats. There are some applications where it is important that a line floats on the surface, but otherwise Polyester and Nylon are more durable fibres in terms of strength and resistance to abrasion and UV

Summary - Polyester is the best all round fibre for mooring applications. Nylon has additional elasticity and can develop a harder finish which is of benefit for certain solutions. Polypropylene isn't really comparable and should only be selected to take advantage of the fact that it floats.

Single Purpose Mooring Lines

These are ropes made up to a specific measurement, spliced and finished to fit your home berth mooring configuration. These lines tend to be for more permanent arrangements, also known as Permanent Warps:

MOORING STROPS and MOORING BRIDLES

Design Considerations and Plus Factors:

You can select your preferred optimum rope for each purpose: base material (rope type), construction, diameter and exact length.

Spliced loops to conveniently drop over cleats or bollards, remember to allow just enough extra to pull the loop to the furthest extremity of the horn before it drops over and sits neatly around the cleat base. Spliced loops can be ordered with anti-chafe webbing fitted.

Spliced thimble eyes for connecting shackles to rings or other fixed attachments on the pontoon or harbour wall. Stainless steel connections reduce the chances of abrasion.

Mooring Compensators threaded onto the lines before splicing to add extra shock absorption where it’s most needed.

Chafe Protection threaded onto the lines before splicing to protect the most likely wear points.

Multi-Purpose Mooring Lines

Generally longer lengths that can be deployed for varied tasks and tend to be for more temporary arrangements.

You can select one rope type suitable for all your mooring requirements. This may help the crew to become more proficient at critical moments.

Spliced loops on one end can be very helpful when trying to secure your yacht in difficult wind and tide conditions.

All non-spliced rope ends should be heat sealed and whipped to prevent fraying.

Bow and Stern lines can be made off and doubled back to make a spring.

Longer lines can be deployed to attach directly to the pontoon when your yacht is outside several others on a visitors pontoon.

Rafting Out and Towing Warps

It’s generally good practice to have two long lines in your rope inventory for when you’re rafted out on a visitor pontoon. It is not advisable or the done thing to rely on your inner neighbours to keep you securely moored to the jetty by simply tying up to next door’s cleats. You will create extra load on their lines and fittings which will not be appreciated and in any case may expose their lack of strength and suitability.

It’s also a good idea to consider a towing line for emergencies. Stowage room and extra cost may lead you to designate an existing mooring or anchoring warp for this purpose. Just bear in mind that the rope ends need to be finished in a versatile manner so that the line is genuinely multi-functional. A towing warp needs to be long and fairly stretchy, which is reasonably compatible with doubling up as rafting out, kedge or drogue warps.

Compare the three main choices of Mooring Rope Construction:

3 strand also known as twisted lay.

The most popular all round choice ~ optimum choice on all counts except for handling where it's not quite as comfortable as braided or plaited lines - and the least expensive of the three options.

Anchorplait, Octoplait 8 Strand

More commonly used for anchoring warp but has all the required properties for mooring, a little more comfortable to handle than 3 strand and on a par with Braided Docklines in terms of cost. There is some feedback that this is the construction that is most likely to squeak ~ 12 plait hollowbraid is available at a lower price point.

Braided Dockline

The most comfortable handling with all the benefits of polyester fibre, specially twisted filament yarn for optimum endurance.

Select the most suitable mooring rope to meet your requirements from the comprehensive range on view.

Custom Build your rope selection into a finished mooring line, ready to use for your intended purpose

Jimmy Green Marine offer the following LIROS Mooring Warp rope options from stock in Beer, backed up by the premium supply chain uniquely offered to us in the UK by LIROS Yacht Ropes, Germany.

LIROS 3 Strand Polyester Article 00111/01110 - manufactured to DIN EN ISO 1141 standard (previously DIN EN 697, DIN 83331) - The most popular choice for permanent pontoon mooring lines - Dependable strength and durable abrasion resistance combined with >15% working load stretch.

LIROS Braided Dockline Article 00133 (Porto) from 10mm - 24mm diameter - 20 plait cover and braided core, 100% Polyester, special twisted twine construction: High elasticity >15% working load stretch - high load capacity - super flexibility - soft handling - balanced braiding, non kinking - eminently throwable - excellent UV and abrasion resistance The logical choice for mooring alongside.

LIROS Superyacht Dockline Article 01300 is available to order in 24mm, 28mm, 32mm and 36mm diameter - 24 plait special coated 100% Polyester cover with special twisted twine construction for improved abrasion resistance and a 100% Polyester braided core creating a solid round construction - High elasticity >15% working load stretch - Highest possible load capacity - super flexibility - good handling - balanced braiding, non kinking - Superb weather and wear resilience.

LIROS Moorex12 Article 00132 - Hollowbraid 12 plait construction, 100% Polyester > 15% working load stretch and dependable strength - spliceable, super flexible and throwable, excellent constructional shock absorption, ideal for guest lines.

LIROS Handy Elastic Article 00136 - Special 1:1 Plait cover and braided core, 100% Nylon (Polyamide), the ultimate shock absorbing mooring line >20% working load stretch, super pliable and comfortable in the hand - distinctive colour = navy with yellow markers.

LIROS Octoplait Polyester Article 01049 - 8 Strand, Balanced, Square Braid Construction, 100% Polyester - super pliable, spliceable to chain, Reliable load capacity and abrasion resilience combined with excellent constructional shock absorption >15% working load stretch.

LIROS 3 Strand Polypropylene Article 01120 - pliable, floating alternative with a finish very similar to 3 strand nylon and polyester mooring lines.

LIROS Octoplait Polypropylene Article 01078 - 8 Strand, Balanced, Square Braid Construction, 100% Multifilament Polypropylene - floats, very light and flexible, effective floating warp, good shock absorption >15% working load stretch. However, even after UV stabilising, polypropylene is susceptible to deterioration in the sun and is not as strong as polyester.

Boat Length (Mooring Alongside)

• 5-6 metres up to 1 tonne (10) 6-8 metres up to 2.5 tonnes (23) 8-10 metres, up to 5 tonnes (25) 10-12 metres, up to 9 tonnes (30) 12-14 metres, up to 13 tonnes (30) 14-16 metres, up to 16 tonnes (16) 16-18 metres, up to 20 tonnes (13) 18-22 metres, up to 25 tonnes (13) 22-26 metres, up to 30 tonnes (13) 26-30 metres, up to 40 tonnes (2) 30-36 metres, up to 70 tonnes (2) Up to 5 metres or 0.6 tonnes (6)

Boat Length (Permanent Strop)

• 5-6 metres up to 1 tonne (5) 6-8 metres up to 2.5 tonnes (5) 8-10 metres up to 5 tonnes (5) 10-12 metres up to 9 tonnes (5) 12-14 metres up to 13 tonnes (1) 14-16 metres up to 16 tonnes (1) up to 5 metres or 0.6 tonnes (5)

Rope Diameter

• 6mm (15) 8mm (6) 10mm (12) 12mm (31) 14mm (30) 16mm (28) 18mm (18) 20mm (16) 22mm (1) 24mm (7) 28mm (2) 32mm (2) 36mm (2) 40mm (1) 44mm (1) 48mm (1) 52mm (1)
• Black (45) Classic (9) Navy (54) Silver (10) White (29)
• 100% rPET (12) Nylon (8) Polyester (56) Polypropylene (15)

Purchase Type

• 50 metre cut length (11) 100 metre Reel (12) Clearance (11) Custom Build (49) Set Lengths (6) Spliced Set Length (11)
• Ankarolina (1) Jimmy Green Marine (5) LIROS Ropes (82) Marlow Ropes (6) Ultramarine (1)

Marlow 12mm Blue Ocean Braided Dockline Mooring Warps

Marlow 14mm blue ocean braided dockline mooring warps, marlow 16mm blue ocean braided dockline mooring warps, liros 24mm super yacht dockline polyester mooring warps, liros 28mm super yacht dockline polyester mooring warps, liros 32mm super yacht dockline polyester mooring warps, liros 12mm classic braided dockline polyester mooring warps, liros 14mm classic braided dockline polyester mooring warps, liros 16mm classic braided dockline polyester mooring warps, liros 10mm braided dockline polyester mooring warps, liros 12mm braided dockline polyester mooring warps, liros 14mm braided dockline polyester mooring warps.

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Yachting World

• Digital Edition

The 10 modern and updated golden rules for line handling

• Rachael Sprot
• May 16, 2024

Yachtmaster Instructor and co-founder of Rubicon 3 Adventures, Rachel Sprot takes a look at line handling and brings you her top 10 modern rules

They say that most accidents happen in the home, and I’d hazard a guess that the same is true for sailing. Of the accidents I’ve witnessed over the years, a significant proportion have been in port, often while mooring. It’s a time when the crew are starting to relax, the seasickness has vanished and the bar’s in sight. Meanwhile, the skipper is focused on the manoeuvre.

We often underappreciate the hazards involved in mooring. As the size of yacht increases, particularly above 45ft, it’s essential to upskill our line handling, and that of our crew. Last issue we looked at line handling techniques while under sail, this issue we’ll look at coming alongside, berthing, and other critical moments. The good news is that safe line handling isn’t complicated: with a healthy respect for the hazards involved and a few golden rules, it should be easy to make the transition to larger vessels safely.

It may sound counterintuitive, but if you’ve got novice crew on board it’s essential to teach them how to tie up while you’re still tied up. Taking time to demonstrate where to stand, how to lasso a cleat, and how to make off a line or surge it, is one of the best investments you can make.

Once you’ve done this, find a big, empty berth and come alongside a couple of times to ensure that everyone understands the procedure, it will pay dividends in the end.

With higher topsides, stepping off becomes harder – particularly on icy or slippery pontoons. Photo: Rachael Sprot

2 Surging a line

Using the warps, such as a midships line, is an effective way to bring a large boat alongside, but it needs both sensitive use of the throttle and sensitive line handling. The person stepping ashore needs to know how to surge the line, rather than snubbing it, and the person on the helm needs to work with them. In strong winds this can be the difference between coming safely alongside, or causing damage.

3 Heaving lines

As the lines get bigger and heavier, and the topsides get higher, stepping ashore with warps becomes harder.

Throwing a heavy line is difficult: if you get enough momentum to launch the line, you risk sending yourself with it. I’ve come close to this myself and seen it happen to another skipper (it did wonders for crew morale, though little for his own!). Throwing a few loops of the line, and not the whole coil, is the trick for short distances, but it will only cover a few metres.

“If there’s one essential skill the crew of large yachts need,” notes large classic yacht skipper, Jim Thom, “it’s using the heaving line.”

Coiling long warps and lines is heavy work. Photo: Rachael Sprot

While most medium-sized cruising yachts won’t carry a dedicated heaving line, they often have a throwing line in a bag, which will do the same job.

Practising on the dock first saves embarrassment under pressure and could be the difference between pulling off a manoeuvre first time, or having to come around again.

If you’re receiving a heaving line, holding out an arm on the side you want it thrown will help direct the line in the right direction, but away from your face.

<h2<4 Lassoing

If you’re not met by the marina staff, your crew need to be able to secure a line to the dock themselves.

Topside height has increased considerably in recent years, and where we might once have expected a crewmember to be able to step off a 50-footer, it’s increasingly unrealistic. Nigel Rennie has witnessed several accidents over his decades as an RYA examiner. Three Yachtmaster candidates left exams in an ambulance having slipped on pontoons and suffered serious injuries, and several more missed the pontoon entirely and ended up in the water.

“When I’m teaching a course these days,” he said, “I always teach lassoing.” To lasso a cleat, throw a bight of line wide enough to ensure that it encircles the cleat, and then bring in the slack.

Use your hip when coiling lines to help support the weight. Photo: Rachael Sprot

5 Coiling lines

Line coiling is an art. A well-coiled line isn’t just nice to look at though, it’s also a safety issue. There are times when you need to rig lines in a hurry, such as having engine failure in a confined space or needing a tow. Lines need to come out of the locker ready to use, not tangled among the buckets and fenders.

Coiling big, heavy lines is hard work though, and the larger the yacht, the longer it takes. Skippers can encourage good habits by allowing time to stow the boat properly before heading out of port. Using a winch, rather than your arm, to coil the line around makes it easier, or flaking it into a figure of eight on deck. To finish it off without finishing off your biceps, hold the body of the coil between the crook of your arm and your hip, while you wrap the tail around it.

Unambiguous communication between the bow and the helm is vital for safe line handling. Photo: Paul Wyeth

6 Communication

Effective communication is particularly important on a large yacht where the controls are a long way from where the load is applied. Agree terms in advance and explain what you mean by each phrase. Danny Watson, skipper of Challenge 72, Catzero, insists that crew repeat back the instruction: “Slip the bow line,” should be answered with “Slipping the bow line,” and then “Bowline slipped.” The bow is too far away from the helm to see what’s going on, and the foredeck team are the skipper’s eyes forward.

Article continues below…

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Loading or unloading a line at the wrong time can be dangerous. A line should never be loaded without ensuring the people handling it are ready. If you’re going to drive onto a midships spring, explain this in advance and make a final check that hands are clear before engaging gear.

The language we use matters too. Sail training skipper Emily Caruso pointed out that “Make it off” sounds very similar to “take it off”. Unfortunately, it has completely the opposite effect to the one you want when you’re trying to secure a boat in a cross wind!

“Taking time to get the right lines in place can prevent a lot of rushing and mis-handling,” said Helen Walker, skipper of expedition yacht, Zuza, “then all the safety aspects can be adhered to without extra pressure and confusion.” With planning and preparation novice crew can be safely involved in deck operations, without it they’re more likely to be sidelined or injured.

Taking time to get the right lines in place can prevent a lot of unnecessary rushing when the time comes to deploy them. Photo: Paul Wyeth

8 Loose Ends

“Always ensure you can dump the line from on board if needed,” said John Wetton, Yachtmaster Instructor, “don’t put bowlines on cleats on board.” Having the loose end of the line on the dock means you’ve ceded control to those on shore who may, or may not, have understood instructions. If you’ve still got line on board you’ve still got options, such as easing, or releasing the line. There are times when you need to abort a manoeuvre or abandon a snagged line and depart the dock without it.

There is a story – possibly apocryphal – of a sailing school that almost lost a yacht when a line snagged. They were springing off a flimsy finger berth in a French marina, but when the line caught they were already making way. The rope was secured by a locking hitch with no way to release it. As the line came taut it ripped the pontoon off. Chaos ensued as they dragged the errant pontoon on a leash around the marina before eventually colliding with it and holing the hull. True or not, a line snag at a critical moment can have major consequences and being able to release it is key.

Cleats on the deck or pontoon can be hazardous – keep hands well clear when slipping lines. Photo: Paul Wyeth

Cleats may look benign, but they can be dangerous. A few years ago the Hamble Inshore Lifeboat deployed to a woman who’d lost three fingers on a pontoon in the river. She’d been trying to hold on to a mooring line which was only around half the cleat. The manoeuvre had gone wrong, and under pressure she held onto the warp rather than letting go. It’s easy for hands to be sucked towards a cleat, especially if the vessel is in strong wind or tide. A safe distance of half a metre or more should be maintained and crew need to understand the importance of friction in giving them control.

Always ensure you can dump a line from the boat so crew onboard retain control and have options. Photo: Paul Wyeth

10 Complacency

The best lesson I came across was from an old school friend. She’s not a sailor, but she does watch the Below Deck reality TV show which follows superyacht crew working aboard charter yachts. “Have I seen Episode 6, Season 2?” she enquired.

Below Deck isn’t the first place I’d seek instruction in seamanship, but this episode captures a terrifying accident. Deckhand Ashton Pienaar stands on the wrong side of the tender towing line as it pays out. His ankle is caught in a bight of line which drags him over the side. Disaster is only averted by the cameraman who stops filming to release the tow setting the six-tonne tender, and Pienaar, free before he loses a limb or drowns.

It’s not only novices who are hurt by poor line handling, professional seafarers can become complacent too. We’re all guilty of relaxing our guard when it comes to line handling, but good technique keeps everyone safe and models best practices for those around you.

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This Sleek New 55-Foot Carbon-Fiber Yacht Looks Like a Spaceship for the High Seas

The future-forward vessel is the first from industry newcomer mirrari., rachel cormack.

Digital Editor

Rachel Cormack's Most Recent Stories

This new 131-foot superyacht concept brings high architecture to the high seas, isa unveils a trio of sleek new superyachts, wider yachts is debuting a 92-foot hybrid catamaran at the venice boat show—here’s a first look.

• Share This Article

Rashed Al Shaali, a descendant of the founding family of Gulf Craft, is ready to create his own marine legacy.

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Taking design cues from Enata’s “flying yachts” Foiler , Foiler USV , and Vatoz , the first 55-footer will feature a sleek carbon hull that ensures both strength and speed on the high seas. The yacht will also incorporate materials such as kevlar and titanium that are sturdy yet lightweight. The exterior combines angular, futuristic lines with organic structures. The superstructure is adorned with a dynamic glass dome inspired by intricate bird skeletons, according to Mirrari. The dome enhances structural integrity and ensures the interiors receive plenty of natural light.

“This collaboration resonated with my passion for unique materials and design concepts,” Bozca adds. “Rashed sought not only innovative design but also a distinctive sensory experience.”

The living quarters showcase contemporary furnishings, striking lighting, high-end materials, and a subtle neutral palette. The upper deck is home to an indoor-outdoor salon, a dining area, and the helm, while the lower deck is outfitted with two full-beam en suite cabins, a galley, and a small lounge. Heading outside, the aft deck is equipped with a BBQ and bar, the stern sports a large sun pad, and the bow is lined with more plush seating.

The inaugural Mirarri yacht is currently under construction, with delivery scheduled for 2025.

“I can’t wait for the first Mirarri to be revealed to the world,” said Al Shaali.

Click here to see all the photos of the Mirrari yacht.

Rachel Cormack is a digital editor at Robb Report. She cut her teeth writing for HuffPost, Concrete Playground, and several other online publications in Australia, before moving to New York at the…

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After Orcas Sink Another Yacht, Researcher Says They're Probably Just Playing

F ollowing news of the latest boat sunk by orcas in the waters near the Strait of Gibraltar, a killer whale researcher is warning that the incidents may be misunderstood.

News outlets ( including HuffPost ) have used the word “attack” to describe a spate of events in which orcas have damaged vessels in the waters around Morocco, Portugal and Spain. But Monika Wieland Shields, co-founder and director of the nonprofit Orca Behavior Institute, argued the term is misleading in an MSNBC opinion piece published Thursday.

“When I watch the videos of these so-called attacks, I see something completely different,” Shields wrote.

Rather than an act of aggression, “it looks like another behavior we often see killer whales engage in: play.”

On Tuesday, a group of orcas slammed into the hull and damaged the rudder of a 50-foot sailing yacht off the coast of Morocco. The people aboard were rescued and the vessel was left to sink. It was the fifth time orcas have sunk a boat in the region in recent years, The New York Times reported . There have been dozens of other incidents of damage, though no human deaths.

Shields said “from the whale’s perspective,” it makes sense that they often go after rudders.

“Rudders move and, when humans try to regain steering control, show resistance,” she wrote. “It’s probably more like a game of tug-of-war than a maliciously motivated attack.”

Orcas are highly intelligent and social animals, which means they have “a unique capacity for amusement and playfulness,” she wrote. It also means that new behaviors and fads spread easily among social groups. For example, during a brief in a period in the late 1980s, many orcas near Washington state began wearing dead salmon on their heads , like hats.

Shields’ view is in line with what other orca experts have theorized.

“What I think is probably happening is it’s a playful behavior,” Dr. Deborah Giles, science director at research and advocacy group Wild Orca, said last year . “It’s a social behavior.”

However, one non-playful possibility has gone particularly viral . Biologist Alfredo López Fernandez suggested in a 2022 paper that it all may have started after a female orca known as “White Gladis”  had a traumatic encounter with a boat, then began to act in a defensive manner towards other boats.

That theory helped fuel online support for “team orca,” with many people on social media casting the killer whales as revolutionaries fighting back against human destruction of the natural world.

While Shields doesn’t buy the White Gladis theory, she thinks it’s worth examining why people find the idea of an orca uprising so compelling.

“We recognize that we have done enough to the world to deserve orcas attacking us in response,” she wrote.

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Ambitious plan to save Tasmanian-built Huon pine warship HDML1321 from slow death in Darwin

The Tasmanian-made Huon pine patrol boat HMAS HDML1321 took commandos behind enemy lines in WWII, but its biggest mission yet will be finding a way home from its slow death at a construction site in Darwin.

The historic 80 foot (24-metre) warship later known as Rushcutter sits on a cradle in a commercial shipyard that is being developed into northern Australia's largest ship lift.

The historic vessel is rotting away without a home, but a passionate group of maritime enthusiasts have ambitious plans to try and save it.

Rear Admiral (retired) Steve Gilmore said HDML1321 was made in Hobart by Purdon and Featherstone in 1943.

It was the first of nine patrol boats built in Australia for the Navy in WWII.

"It was probably the one that went on to have the most operationally effective career in the war, and then two decades of service with the Navy as a training vessel," he told Leon Compton on ABC Radio Hobart.

"One of its more famous moments in the war was landing commandos behind enemy lines in and around Papua New Guinea.

"I think it's a very important piece of Australia's naval history and consequently Tasmania's great maritime history."

A big history

HDML 1321 — the letters stand for Harbour Defence Motor Launch — was used by Australia's elite Z Special Unit during WWII.

Its most notorious operation was in 1945, when eight commandos used the vessel to go behind enemy lines in Papua New Guinea as part of Operation Copper.

The raid on Muschu Island was unsuccessful and only Sapper Mick Dennis survived.

After the war, it was based in Sydney for 20 years as a training vessel, before going into private hands in various places around Australia.

In 2016, the " Tinnie Terrorists " were said to have backed out of buying the vessel for use in a plot to support ISIS, and five months later in an unrelated incident, it sunk off Darwin and spent two years underwater.

A small group of volunteers known as Save Motor Launch 1321 purchased the boat from its former private owner for $2, and tried to recover it.

In 2018, it was finally pulled out of Darwin Harbour after a mammoth effort, and has since been sitting in a purpose-built cradle on the site of the $400 million ship lift development.

A plan to save it

Tasmanian Maritime Network chairman Jeff Hawkins said saving the vessel presented several challenges, one being that it sits on private land.

"We are trying to gain access and are talking to the port," Dr Hawkins said.

"The port is sympathetic to putting it in a safe place for us ... We don't have that confirmation yet, but that's what we are working on."

The ship lift is expected to be finished in 2025-26.

Dr Hawkins said he has also contacted Defence Minister Richard Marles to highlight how important the vessel is.

"The first challenge we have is to protect it so that it's not in the way of the ship lift," he said.

"The second part is the logistics of how to get it to Tasmania."

Rear Admiral (retired) Gilmore said the 50 tonne vessel would need to be delivered to Tasmania by ship.

"It would require a heavy lift crane," he said.

"That's certainly been done before, it's not an impossible task. But it will take planning and it will take resources."

Dr Hawkins said the vessel needed to be protected due to its historical significance.

"We are putting together what's needed in terms of resources and the logistics," he said.

"We want to get it back here to restore it here in Tasmania."

He said it was a beautiful vessel that was still in reasonable condition.

"With wooden vessels you can do real magic and make them look fantastic, but they do need a lot of love and care," Dr Hawkins said.

"The most exciting part is the restoration in Tasmania — we definitely have some very good expertise in Tasmania for that.

"It's going to take money and a lot of passion."

Rear Admiral (retired) Gilmore said the condition of the boat was testament to Tasmania's materials and people.

"A personal vision would be to see it in the water fully able to operate underway, restored to its WWII configuration and open to the public to see what Australians did, what Tasmanians did," he said.

"I think there's lots of people who will wish to be involved."

Help from the Navy

Former Royal Australian Navy Captain Sarah Parry has overseen other major ship projects in Tasmania and said one option would be seeking help from the Navy to deliver HDML1321 to Hobart.

Captain Parry spent time on the vessel during her time in the Navy.

"She's a lovely thing," she said.

"The biggest problem is the fact she's in Darwin."

She said the Navy vessel HMAS Choules delivered the historic Mistral II to Hobart in 2019.

"I don't see any reason why that can't be done again."

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See Taylor Swift and Travis Kelce Kiss During Enchanted Lake Como Boat Date

Taylor swift and travis kelce were spotted sharing a kiss as they headed out for a romantic date in lake como during a break in the grammy winner's eras tour schedule..

Taylor Swift  and  Travis Kelce  can't fight that alchemy.

The "Fortnight" singer and Kansas City Chiefs tight end looked all loved up during a romantic dinner in Lake Como, Italy, May 16.

The couple's enchanted evening began with a boat ride, during which they shared several kisses before snapping a few photos together. Once they arrived at their destination, Travis helped the Grammy winner step out onto the dock and the two posed for more pictures on Taylor's camera.

The athlete also held Taylor's hand throughout the night, even holding an umbrella for her as they made their way through the rain.

Taylor, 34, bundled up with a tan trench coat over top of a black cocktail dress and matching flats. Meanwhile, Travis, also 34, kept warm in a black-and-white checkered sweater and black trousers.

The pair have been living la dolce vita across Europe ahead of Taylor's Eras Tour stop in Sweden, set for May 17. Travis and Taylor were  previously seen enjoying an evening stroll  after her May 12 concert  in Paris, where the  Super Bowl champ  got to witness another one of her incredible performances.

"I had a blast at Tay's show," he said on a  recent episode of his  New Heights  podcast . "Her new rendition of The Eras Tour—I suggest everybody go see it. It has her new  Tortured Poets Department —a handful of those songs—in the new show, which means there's a new segment and new lights and new dancing—new everything to the f--king show."

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Calling it an "all-around lovely night," Travis continued. "I don't know if they're just getting better or if I'm just forgetting how they are. It was electric."

And the NFL star didn't enjoy her show alone: He was seen dancing up a storm alongside Taylor's longtime friend  Gigi   Hadid , her boyfriend  Bradley   Cooper  and Philadelphia Eagles defensive line  Connor Barwin .

"I got to see a few familiar faces," Travis added. "Connor Barwin was up there—one of our favorite teammates of all time. Then I got to see Gigi and Bradley—BC, Big Coop—we were all in the suite having a blast."

For a closer look at Travis and Taylor's latest date night, keep reading.

Packing PDA

Taylor  Swift and  Travis Kelce  shared a kiss as they took a boat ride to dinner in Lake Como, Italy, May 16.

Strike a Pose 

The Grammy winner and Kansas City Chiefs tight end were seen posing for photos on the boat, with Taylor taking a few snaps of her boyfriend.

A Gentleman

Once they reached their destination, Travis made sure to assist Taylor as she made her way onto the dock.

Never Go Out of Style

For the romantic evening, Taylor wore a tan trench coat over a short, sleeveless black dress. She paired her outfit with black flats, a gold necklace and her signature red lip.

Keeping it Casual

Travis went for a cozy look, donning a black-and-white checkered sweater and black trousers.

For the Cardboard Box of Photos

Taylor ditched her coat as the couple posed for photos on the dock.

So High School

Travis made sure to give his girlfriend another kiss as they continued posing for photos.

Midnight Rain

Travis held an umbrella for Taylor during the evening, keeping her dry from the rain.

Just Grab My Hand

The couple also held hands as they made their way to dinner.

Romantic Getaway

Their date night came after Taylor's Paris stop of her Eras Tour.

Hitting Her Marks

Taylor and Travis fit in their Lake Como trip before the singer headed to Stockholm, Sweden, to continue the European leg of her tour.

Guy on the Chiefs

While Taylor continues with her tour through the rest of the year, Travis will be making his way back to Kansas City when football season starts in September.

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