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Sailboat Bowsprits

If you are looking for some real speed going downwind, then you are going to need a good Bowsprit for your Gennaker or asymmetric Spinnaker. The bowsprit is a spar extending forward from the bow, it provides an anchor point for the forestays, allowing the fore-mast to be stepped farther forward on the hull. These spars are quick to add and remove from the foredeck after installing the deck mounting brackets and when in the inactive position, gives you a clear foredeck when arriving at the docks.

MAURIPRO Sailing is committed to offering Sailboat Bowsprits for the best sailboat equipment online. Get the most out of your next sailing experience by shopping here!

MAURIPRO Sailing, your direct access to Bowsprits and all your other sailing and boating needs.

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Extending the Bow: Are Add-on Sprit Kits Worth It?

Bowsprits are back with a vengeance: practical sailor compares the latest aftermarket kits..

Already de rigueur with many performance-oriented sailors, easy-to-handle lightweight sails are gaining popularity with cruisers. And setting a gennaker, asymmetric spinnaker, or a new rendition of an old-fashioned drifter/reacher is easier than ever before. The big question is: Will the cost of a mini-bowsprit actually be worth the effort and expense involved?

After a series of sea trails with sprits, spinnaker socks, and free-luff furlers, weve come to the conclusion that the technology works well, but whether this is a valid investment depends on how important it is to you to keep sailing in light conditions. With fuel prices scraping the stratosphere, efficiency in light wind may be a bigger priority than it was in the past.

In our recent look at furlable code sails, drifters, gennakers, and asymmetric spinnakers (“ A New Twist on Furlers ,” March 2008), we proved that an efficient “no foil” furler made hoisting and dousing a large light-air sail almost a walk in the park. We also were quick to recognize that setting the sail a couple of feet ahead of the stem, on a pole, sprit, or other projection, improved both performance and the sails handling characteristics. With this in mind, we decided to delve deeper into the issue of sail-tack projection, and evaluate the differing approaches to tacking the light-air sail forward of the bow of the boat.

Much of the credit for mainstreaming this renaissance in bowsprits goes to Rod Johnstone, designer of the J-boat line and creator of the metric Js (130, 120, 105, etc.) that hit the water with a built-in, extendable free-standing pole meant to replace traditional spinnaker-handling gear. The new approach simplified foredeck gymnastics and significantly streamlined the chute-handling routine. Even so, cruisers and many racers rightfully balked at the prospect of having a big hole near the bow of their boat and a noticeable proboscis built into the topside. At the same time, shorthanded round-the-world racers were flocking to triple sets of furling headsails with light-air sails the size of circus tents set on an articulating tubular bowsprit.

This approach to sailing efficiency has now launched into the mainstream as Selden, Forespar, Forte, Sparcraft, and others have designed aftermarket kits suitable for a wide range of sailboats. All these kits have one aim: Move the tack point of any light-air sail ahead of the stem. Each design faces similar challenges, specifically the need to handle side loads on a tubular structure and the ability to adapt to a wide range of deck geometry and pre-existing obstacles.

Bowsprit engineering

In order to better understand the forces associated with modern sprit technology, a bounce or two on a playground seesaw offers some insight. On both the seesaw and the bowsprit, the location of the fulcrum and the load applied at one end of the lever arm determines what happens at the other. Its important to note both the strength and the direction of the pull when contemplating the force vectors involved. Like any lever, the longer the stress arm becomes, the more load is imposed on the fulcrum-and the stronger both the bowsprit tube and its support members must be.

Traditional bowsprits incorporated a bobstay and even whisker stays to reduce the bending loads at the fulcrum. Just as rigging turns side loads on a mast into compression loads, a bowsprits bobstay and other wires do much the same. However, many modern mini-sprits actually behave more like a free-standing mast, resisting sail loads through stiffness rather than being kept in column by a bobstay. This requires thicker or higher-modulus materials able to withstand the point load induced at the fulcrum, usually a collar-like fitting mounted on the deck.

Our furler tests revealed that close reaching with a Code 0-type sail (a specialized lightweight sail designed for sailing tighter angles than an ordinary asymmetrical spinnaker) or even the use of a more conventional light No. 1 genoa, tripled and even quadrupled the tack load. In Practical Sailors view, this sort of use mandates the need for a bobstay. Those planning to use the sprit solely for reaching purposes with an asymmetrical spinnaker or gennaker only need a bobstay if they intend to use the rig in heavy air conditions. Most manufacturers set extension length and/or wind speed limits for their sprits.

On some boats, the advantage of a sprit is offset by the amount of clutter it adds to the foredeck. Working around a windlass, bow roller, cleats, and the anchor well can turn an easy installation into a real challenge. Fortunately, these sprits come with versatile hardware kits and installation guidelines that make sense. Theres usually a need to add topping and backing plates, as well as address the concern about spreading the loads.

The installation is best handled by a pro rigger, but a skilled do-it-yourselfer should be able to handle the job. It is critical that the deck core be sealed at any new penetrations, and any new points of stress in the deck or hull are conservatively reinforced to cope with the loads of the sprit kit.

The Forespar Banana Sprit uses a smaller-diameter sprit tube with a thick wall section, and incorporates a downward bias and a bottom gusset to add stiffness. The latest version has been extended at both the inboard and outboard ends. It the features tangs on top and bottom, which makes attaching an endless line furler and a bobstay quite simple.

When using the sprit without a furler option, the Banana Sprit leads the line aft through an optional top mounted block-as opposed to the internal tack line in the Selden sprit (see below). For added reinforcement, the manufacturer offers an optional attachment bracket along with a bobstay chainplate fitting.

Theres an upside and a downside associated with the sprits shorter length: Forward projection is limited, but the units compact size makes it very locker-stowable.

Bottom Line: Though its deck fittings and design are not as elegant as some of the others tested, it will hold favor with those who have limited space at the bow.

Based in Ledyard, Conn., Forte Carbon Fiber Products is a composite spar builder that has gained solid ground with competitive sailors. Its sprit kit package comes with nicely machined saddle-type deck fittings and webbing loops for tack attachment.

Ralph Naranjo

The diameter of carbon sprits tended to be a little larger than the alloy alternative. However, the quality of the composite tubes we looked at met an aerospace standard, and for those with extra cash to spare, the carbon sprit option is worth a second look.

Bottom Line: The weight savings of a carbon fiber sprit is significant, but so is the price increase over aluminum.

Selden makes aluminum and carbon fiber sprits. It offers three different diameter tube sections for its aluminum kits. Each comes complete with end fittings and mounting bracket options. The tack line runs through the sprit, so the outboard end acts as a guide for a tack line. The sprit also has webbing attachment points at the top and bottom.

An owner can choose either a stainless steel mounting bracket designed to fit an anchor roller, or a similar fitting designed for direct deck attachment. The well-thought-out kit includes two inboard end-clips that allow the sprit to simply be retracted and clipped for storage. In cases where an anchor locker lies beneath the sprit, the tube can be easily pulled completely free and set in a second deck ring and inboard end-clip that is set outboard near the rail.

Bottom Line: This kits combination of simple but rugged design and user-friendly installation options moved it to the top of the pack. It gets the Practical Sailor Best Choice pick.

Similar to the Selden sprit, the Sparcraft system Practical Sailor evaluated is an alloy, free-standing sprit featuring a tack line through the center of the tube. The kit contains a stainless-steel mounting ring with a high molecular weight plastic sleeve insert that helps reduce chafe at the tube and the tendency for the tube to crimp. Sparcraft also offers a carbon-fiber version.

Various mounting options are available, including a temporary bobstay attachment and the ability to rig the sprit for the heavier loads imposed by a Code 0 or close-reaching in light air. The pole can be retracted for storage or removed and placed elsewhere.

Bottom Line: This sprit is very similar to the Selden, using a slightly greater tube diameter for equal-sized boats, and costing nearly double what the Selden costs.

Free standing vs. Bobstay Assist

As mentioned before, tack loads create an upward force that can be offset by a bobstay. The wire can be attached to an eye-fitting bolted through the thick solid fiberglass stem at a point well below the headstay chainplate but above the waterline. The bracket or welded tabs on the outboard end of the sprit effectively join the tack and bobstay into a single bow-string that puts compression loads on the arrow-the sprit. Hardware at the inboard end needs to be up to this compression loading. However, with a bobstay attached, some sprits can be used as a tack point for a code sail as well as for off-the-wind reaching with an asymmetric spinnaker.

With a free-standing sprit, the load at the fulcrum collar is upward, and theres a tendency to crimp the sidewall of the tube. At the inboard end of the pole, the force is downward rather than aft because theres much less compression on the sprit. Adding a bobstay causes the upward crimp load at the collar (fulcrum) to lessen, but a new compression component is introduced at the support structure located at the aft end of the pole.

Adding more sail to the pointy end of the boat will improve light-air performance, and the furling systems and sock technology available today make it easier than ever to manage more sail area. But it is tempting to go overboard, and add too much sail area and a too-complex system to handle it.

When all was said and done, our nod of approval went to Selden for its simple, versatile, alloy free-standing sprit, a unit thats intended for gennakers and asymmetric spinnakers. The hardware versatility makes it user-friendly, and its cost-effective price point adds to its appeal.

For those with a tight squeeze on the foredeck, Forespars Banana Sprit offers a recommended alternative. Its projection lengthprovides a sniff of clear air and a convenient tacking point for a gennaker or asymmetrical spinnaker. Forespar, does not recommend using the sprit for Code 0-type sails.

The best solution varies from crew to crew and will depend upon how much you care about performance and how much effort you’re willing to put forth to get that performance. A mini-sprit for an asymmetric or gennaker that slides forward into place and aft for easy storage will have the widest appeal. A more permanent installation with a bobstay adds light-air on-the-wind sailing capability and makes sense for those with reasonably efficient sailboats.

Carbon sprits are pricey, but the tube technology is terrific and the weight savings will probably appeal to those who go to the effort to keep neither chain nor heavy anchors stored at the bow.

• Bowspirit Details
• Practical Sailor Value Guide: Add On Bowsprits
• The Perfect Spirit Remains Elusive

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Retrofit Your Boat

For an asymmetrical sail with a carbon fiber sprit kit for a custom sprit.

The easy-to-install Forte Carbon Sprit Kit includes everything you need: a beautiful clear painted carbon fiber sprit, your choice of easy-to-mount deck hardware and a robust outboard end fitting.

Carbon Fiber Sprit Kits

Forte offers four sprit kit sizes to accommodate your boat. The carbon fiber sprit tube will actually be engineered and built to your specific requirements. Because of this, the OD of the tube is not set in stone; the laminate (wall thickness) may be a little thicker for heavier boats or boats carrying more sail area.

• For boats from 15’ to 24’ long
• 2” ID, 2.5” OD
• Max length 9′
• For boats from 25’ to 32’ long
• 3” ID, 3.5” OD
• Max length 12’
• For boats from 32’ to 40’ long
• 4” ID,  4.5” OD
• Max length 12′

Extra-Large

• For boats 45′ to 50′
• 5″ ID, 5.5″ OD
• Max length 14’

How to Plan Your Mount Kit

We recommend you maintain a 50/50 ratio of unsupported length to supported length. For example if you have 6’ of unsupported pole sticking out past your forward mount, then you will want to have another 6’ of pole to your aft mount. Your total pole length in this case would need to be 12’.

** If you’re just starting to plan out your sprit kit – grab a piece of PVC tubing of similar size to your sprit and lay it out on your deck where you think you will be mounting the sprit. You will be amazed at how much stuff you have to plan to get around, over, through and in-between **

What Our Sprit Kits Come With

Forward mount.

The Forward mount is a “saddle” style mount which is machined from a Black Delrin block and includes threaded stainless rods and mounting hardware to easily secure the block to the deck. The idea behind the Black Delrin block is that it is relatively easy to work with if you need to adjust the height or cut a curve into the bottom. You can see in the picture below the saddle mount was cut to fit over the tow rail.

The Aft mount can be your choice of saddle mount (identical to the forward saddle mount), or a removable deck eye. The removable deck eye screws into a plate that is mounted in/on the deck. The aft end of the sprit has a machined receiver block that fits over and pins to the removable deck eye. This allows for a total clean deck when the pole and deck eye are removed.

Custom Carbon Fiber Sprits

Want a retractable bow sprit .

Either on deck with a receiver tube to allow the pole to slide in and out or go all out and have it installed through the hull, we can provide the sprit, bearings, receiver tube and mounting hardware. Or buy the just the carbon sprit and fabricate your own custom mount.

Forte can engineer a custom sprit for almost any application.

Give us a call or shoot an email to discuss your ideas!

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Selecting a Bowsprit

We can help you decide

Selecting your Bowsprit and Installation Method

General recommendations & considerations.

The Trogear product line consists of six (6) standard models for sailboats from 8-21 meters (20-70 feet).

The products have been designed to fit the largest number of yachts and some models may have an overlapping range of use. Thus, the choice of the right model or even a semi-custom one will depend on several factors.

Following is a comparison spec table and general recommendations to help you make your selection. 

How do I select the right size? Do I need a custom size?

Following are some considerations to keep in mind. however, if you are not sure, in most cases answering our questionnaire will provide us with the information we need to select the right bowsprit and install method for your project..

Sailboats with heavy displacement may need to go one size up.

For racers and bluewater cruisers, we recommend going one size up.

For reaching sails, you may need to consider a model for which you are not getting at the top end of its range capacity.

Sails featuring a total area close to the top end of the range might be better off going one size up.

You may want to shorten a sprit due to restrictions in the IRC/ORC rules to avoid any addtional penalties.

Download Questionnaire

Send us the answers and some good photos and we will get back to you.

Semi-Custom Solutions

Depending on your yacht or sailing program, you may need to consider a semi-custom solution where we shorten a standard model.

RACERS: For those racing, this situation can happen if you do not want to suffer any racing organization penalties and our standard models will not provide the desired length.

CRUISERS : For those cruising, it can be due to the presence of a bow roller which requires more thought for the installation.

Over the years, we have worked closely with owners and riggers worldwide to provide the perfect fit. Filling out our questionnaire will help us determine the best solution.

Ordering Your Semi-Custom Sprit

We need to have a complete understanding of your project.

Based on the information provided, we will recommend the best solution to achieve your goal. This includes installation method, as well as final bowsprit specs.

Once we have come to an agreement, we will provide a mock-up drawing along with custom form to be reviewed and approved.

Once the custom form is approved, signed and the deposit is received, we will schedule your bowsprit for production and delivery!

Need More Help?

We are available to assist throughout the sales cycle. That's part of the hands on customer service we are known for.

See FAQ Section

comprehensive FAQs to answer most of your questions.

View Our Products

View our bowsprits and installation parts

View Adopters

See the list by sprit model and also our photo gallery.

Contact Us Directly

Experience the hands on customer service for yourself

• +33 (0)9.70.44.58.11
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• 10-14 Rue Jean Perrin 17000 La Rochelle, France

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Bowsprits Range

The Sparcraft removable bowsprits, can be fitted on sailing boats from 25 to 57 feet, for Asymmetric Spinnakers or Gennaker and Code Zero. The deck fixing device allows a free foredeck when arriving at the harbour or mooring.

Advantages of the removable bowsprits.

⊕  Easy fixation thanks to an automatic locking device on deck fixing blocks;

⊕  Simple installation (only a short backwards movement is needed to fit the bowsprit on the deck);

⊕  Quick removal & storage on a third fixing block;

⊕  The locking system incorporates an anti-theft device.

⊕  The central fixing collaris removable from the fixing block.  The foredeck is therefore totally free (no more fixed collar in the way).

⊕  Rotating collar captive from the section: removable bowsprit for  storage alongside one boat edge

SIMPLE & EFFICIENT FUNCTIONNING

FOR ASYMMETRIC SPINNAKERS & GENNAKER (with bridle kit) :

> Suitable to a majority of boats from 23 up to 57′

> The deck fixing device allows a free foredeck when arriving at the harbour or mooring. Quick removal and storage on a third fixing block.

> Neat Design (Bridle attachment integrated in the front end fitting design)

COMPLETE KIT with SECTIONS, ENDS & COLLARS

COMPLETE KIT

Aluminium Bowsprit equipped with a complete collars sytem

– 1 end fitting with bridle attachment at the front

– 1 Fixing  block device at the back (delivered pre-installed)

–  1 adjustable central fitting

– 1 “parking” deck fitting

– 2 working deck fittings + 2 deck fixing plates

(photo : BDH100)

MODELS & FEATURES

Installation & options.

> “parking” and “working” Extra-deck fittings

> Deck fitting cover

> Stemhead fitting and furler fitting ring (furler attachment)

> Bridle installation kit ( especially for Gennakers )

See BOWSPRIT OPTIONS

Installation : see Bowsprit installation manual

Questions ? see FAQ Flying sails furlers & Bowsprits

or get direct advice from one of our resellers : Facnor dealer network

BRIDLE KIT OPTION

BRIDDLE KIT ASSEMBLY SUGGESTION       BOWSPRIT INSTALLATION MANUAL            SEE OTHER TECHNICAL INFORMATION

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• Sparcraft Gennaker Bowsprits & Accessories

Sparcraft Bowsprit Kits

Facnor / Sparcraft offers a new range of bowsprits. Easily removed from the deck these innovative spars can be fitted on sailing boats from 25 to 57 feet. They have been specially designed for Gennakers/ Code zero or asymmetric Spinnakers. The deck fixing device allows a free foredeck when arriving at the harbour or mooring.

Facnor - Furler Fitting D100 Sprit

Sparcraft / Facnor Aluminum Bowsprit Kit for Boats from 48 to 57 ft. (100 mm tube)

Sparcraft / Facnor Aluminum Bowsprit Kit for Boats from 40 to 47 ft. (90 mm tube)

Sparcraft / Facnor Aluminum Bowsprit Kit for Boats from 36 to 40 ft. (80 mm tube)

Sparcraft / Facnor Aluminum Bowsprit Kit for Boats from 23 to 36 ft. (70 mm tube)

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Bowsprit power for downwind sailing

• Graham Snook
• December 30, 2020

Bowsprits are all the fashion on new boats these days, but do you need one? Graham Snook looks at how a bowsprit can make your sailing easier and faster

Walk down any marina or boat show pontoon and you could be for thinking there was some sort of nautical jousting competition afoot.

Older yachts too can get in on the act with retrofitted deck-mounted retractable bowsprits, but do you really need one and do they improve performance?

There’s nothing new about bowsprits – sailing ships have been using them for centuries as a means of creating more real estate from which to fly canvas as well as to balance a vessel’s rig – but they are more popular on cruising yachts than ever before.

Permanent bowsprits are often built with integral bow rollers

With advancements in sail-handling technology, a furling spinnaker can now be set up in port by one person and stay rolled up until it’s ready to be used.

At that point, it’s a case of unfurling it, sheeting in, and you have a spinnaker!

Taking it down is almost as easy: ease the sheet and take in on the furling line until the sail is neatly rolled away and perfectly tamed, a feat that would have been unmanageable by a single cruising sailor a few decades ago.

Why so popular?

Older masthead rigs tend to have large overlapping genoas, which are less efficient upwind

Their popularity has mostly been brought about by modern yacht design and the quest for better accommodation.

The IOR rules of the 70s did much to determine hull shape, but the demand for more space and accommodation has changed yachts forever.

One big difference is the rig.

Gone are the stumpy masthead rigs and vast overlapping genoas encouraged by the IOR without penalty, which have been replaced by tall, efficient high aspect ratio rigs.

The increase of popularity in cruising, and the lack of rules constraining it, gave designers a free hand.

Mast sections and materials became lighter and stronger, enabling rigs to go higher.

By moving the mast forward in the boat, it enabled designers to open up the saloon, and by moving the chainplates outboard and attaching them directly to the hull, eliminated the need for tie rods that eat into accommodation, increasing the feeling of space below while also reducing manufacturing costs.

Over the last 15 years bows have become less raked and more vertical.

This change has improved performance as the static waterline length and forward buoyancy in the hull have increased.

On deck, things weren’t as rosy for the cruising yachtsman.

Plumb bows and anchors are not good bedfellows, as anchors seem to be as attracted to them as curious hands are to ‘wet paint’ signs.

In no time there were battle-scarred bows all around the world.

To right this wrong, bow rollers started protruding forward.

Outboard chainplates reduce the loads on the mast and rigging, but to get good windward performance the sheeting angle has to be as small as possible.

Modern high aspect ratio rigs sail better upwind, but lack power off the wind

Clearly this conflicts with an overlapping genoa which has to go outboard of the shrouds.

Leading the sheet through the shrouds improves the sheeting angle, but spreaders still prevent an overlapping genoa from being used.

With the high aspect ratio rigs and the increased ‘I’ measurement (foretriangle height), and a reduction in the J (foretriangle base) jibs went from being 150-130% of the foretriangle down to 110% or less.

Not only did this increase upwind performance with more efficient sail shapes, it also made sail handling easier:

A shorter foot can be tacked faster as half of the sail doesn’t have to be dragged around the front of the mast before being sheeted in – 90% headsails have the advantage that they can also be self-tacking.

This is wonderful when tacking upwind, but in light winds, and when sailing off-wind, you start paying the penalty for reduced sail area.

A narrow headsail loses more power at the head of the sail as the leech falls away and it is increasingly blanketed by the larger mainsail the further off the wind you sail.

This is where bigger off-wind sails became popular and, necessary.

Continues below…

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Sails for bowsprits

On older yachts with larger headsails that could be poled out, it was easy to forget the colourful but unruly spinnaker – many kites lived their life under the forward berth, used only when there are crew in abundance or on a perfect day.

Some are put off by the hassle of setting it up, others may have had bad experiences and been put off.

But with many owners opting for a more manageable headsail of 135% – to make tacking easier and reduce the need for early reefing – the lack of sail area is noticeable.

Those with a smaller headsail area, found an easy-to-use downwind sail was needed.

Asymmetric (A-sail) spinnaker

A removable bowsprit creates space for more sail area, and keeps it clear of the genoa

Unlike a symmetrical spinnaker that requires a pole to take the load from the tack and the guy, an asymmetric (A-sail) can simply be flown by attaching the halyard and sheets, with its tack taken to a fixed point forward on the yacht.

With the bow roller now sticking out ahead of the bow it made the perfect location to attach one – although many needed to be reinforced to take the upward load as they were originally designed only for the downward load of the anchor chain.

When furling systems became smaller, by using a single continuous line and the advent of the top-down furler, it sped up the demise of the symmetric spinnaker.

Although symmetrical spinnakers are better for sailing dead downwind, once rigged, a furling asymmetric can be set, gybed and furled by one person, all from the safety and comfort of the cockpit.

The crew no longer had to dance around on a rolling foredeck, wielding a long pole while shouting instructions back to the cockpit – guidance, if needed could be spoken to the person next to you.

A symmetrical spinnaker offers the most sail area for dead downwind, but is more complex to rig

An asymmetric spinnaker has a loose luff and large area for offwind sailing

The downside of furlers is that they are expensive.

However, they are quality bits of kit that enable you to extinguish a sail with the pull of a rope.

The cheaper alternative is a snuffer or sock, but this requires someone to go forward when launching or recovering the sail and it can’t be left in position when not in use.

As bows became more vertical so did pulpits, so a line from the top of the mast could go to the bow roller without fouling the pulpit.

But on many older yachts, that had pulpits inclined forwards, to gain the clearance from the genoa furling drum they needed a bowsprit.

To get the best performance advantage from your sail, the bowsprit needs to protrude forward of the genoa as much as practicable, while still retaining the support needed to take the loads.

Taking it to the maximum

Some yacht designs, notably J-Boats, take this to the maximum with their retractable carbon-fibre bowsprit.

Others, like Fauby, have an inclined bow and have a reinforced raised fitting in the pulpit to take extra sails.

A smaller headsail area (in newer and older yachts) means if you’re trying to sail in less than around 10-12 knots of true wind, it’s time for the engine.

It’s at this time sailing folk of the 1970s would be heaving the large but lightweight ghosting headsail on deck.

Nowadays, we have furling genoas, and changing headsails is usually only performed on racing yachts or during a storm.

This is where we turn to the Code Zero.

A Code Zero has a straight luff and is flatter cut for sailing closer to the wind

A Code Zero is technically a racing sail, but Code Zero-style sails are popping up, as many sailmakers have their take on it and now the moniker covers sails that are usually flown on an internal luff rope, although various sailmakers have followed Elvstrøm’s lead with a cableless Code Zero.

While aimed primarily at the racing market, the lack of a torsion cable around which the sail is furled reduces weight and stowed size, and allows the luff to project further forward when halyard tension is slightly eased.

Code Zero sails are usually lightweight nylon or mylar and are furled and stowed while not in use.

They aren’t intended to live rigged for longer than they are in use.

One exception is Crusader Sails’ Super Zero aimed directly at the cruising market, which is made from laminate cloth and has a UV sacrificial strip material so it can be rigged at the start of your cruise and removed at the end.

Because of the loads and the luff rope within, a Code Zero will often require a bobstay from the end of the sprit to a point just above the knuckle of the bow to help the bow roller or bowsprit take the loads.

How furling asymmetric spinnakers work

Most furling asymmetric systems work in a fashion known as a top-down furling.

A shallow furling drum that accepts a continuous line is attached to the bow or bowsprit.

On top of the drum is a swivel to which the tack of the sail attaches; this swivel can rotate independently of the drum.

The furling drum is fixed to a torsion rope (one designed not to twist), and the head of sail is fixed to the top of this, above which a swivel connects the torsion rope to the halyard.

When the sail is ready to be furled, the sheet is eased and the furling line is pulled and the drum rotates.

Because the tack of the sail is on a swivel the rotating drum does not affect it, but turns the torsion rope, which starts the furl at the top of the sail.

As you continue to pull on the furling line, the sail is wrapped around the torsion rope and tamed from the top down until the whole sail is furled and the furling line can be cleated off.

Often a patch of velcro on the sail’s clew will help prevent the furls unfurling.

The luff of the A-sail has to be short enough not to hang down over the furler, and have a shallow enough draft to allow it to roll away.

Therefore, using an existing asymmetric and converting it to a furling asymmetric may be impossible.

With some furling asymmetric systems, such as Crusader Sails’ ‘Magic Furl’ system, the furling sail is pulled onto the torsion rope by lines attached to the luff of the sail at intervals up the luff.

Pulling the furling rope pulls these grab-lines, wrapping them, and then the sail, around the torsion rope.

Off-wind sail for bowsprits

Asymmetric sails (A-sails) benefit from longer bowsprits – something that has been known in the dinghy and sportsboat world for decades – as it enables them to sail deeper downwind and the sail is less blanketed by the mainsail and has a more usable sail area.

A-sails cover many different styles of loose luff asymmetric spinnakers for use from 60-170° apparent wind angle.

A-sails run from A0 to A6 although as cruisers we tend to just use one – a cruising chute, which is an asymmetric spinnaker with less sail area than its racing counterpart.

Narrower shoulders make it easier to handle when it comes to trimming.

Variations in sails

A-sails vary in fullness; if a sail is cut flatter it’s designed to sail higher to the apparent wind – the deeper the draft the further off the wind the sail can be used.

Sails also vary in size as foot length is typically 1.6-1.8 times the length of the ‘J’ and a percentage of this measurement at a distance halfway up the sail (known as the mid-girth measurement).

Many will have heard of a Code Zero sail; it’s a lightweight genoa for light winds.

Under IRC rules a sail that has a mid-girth measurement 75%, and over, rates as a spinnaker, so technically the Code Zero is a spinnaker but it’s attached to a torsional luff rope that supports the sail so it can be used from around 40-90° off the apparent wind.

They are usually flown on a furler and give extra sail area in light winds – handy if you reduced your genoa’s overlap for easier handling.

Fitting a bowsprit

If you want to add a furling headsail on a boat that does not have attachment points ahead of the forestay, you may need to fit a retractable bowsprit.

This will also give the advantage of creating space for more sail area.

I did exactly this on my Sadler 32 . Here’s how it’s done…

Sprit length is defined by the distance so the luff rope can clear the pulpit

1. Using the spinnaker halyard, determine the best length for the bowsprit – this is usually decided by your pulpit design.

I could have mounted the bowsprit forward or aft of the forward edge of the pulpit.

I wasn’t keen on the pole being in the pulpit because of the sail’s proximity to my navigation lights

Using the spinnaker halyard, determine the best length for the bowsprit – this is usually decided by your pulpit design.

I wasn’t keen on the pole being in the pulpit because of the sail’s proximity to my navigation lights.

The pole bracket can be deck mounted, or to the side of the bow roller

2. The pole is supported by a circular bracket at its forward end – the bracket can be deck, side or bow roller mounted.

Having a single bow roller (to starboard) it was decided that the pole should exit to port.

The support was bolted to the deck, and access to my anchor locker made access easier.

A spacer was added to raise the pole above my bow fitting.

3. The aft end has a spring-loaded lock that attaches to a padeye on deck (in my case just aft of my anchor locker).

Once the pole is cut to the correct length, the end fittings are drilled and riveted in place.

4. The finished pole is stowed along the guardrail to avoid fouling the anchor locker lid when not in use.

My Sadler 32 required the largest 72mm diameter pole because of its unsupported length forward – thanks to the Sadler’s forward-swept pulpit – and my wish to fly a Code Zero-style sail.

After fitting I installed a Dyneema bobstay to further support the upward forces on the pole.

• 72mm Seldén Pole kit, including end-fitting and pad eyes, £705
• Bow bracket ring £130
• Installation by Crusader Sails from £250

The pole is stowed inside the pulpit

The rigged pole, with bobstay secured through the anchor locker drain holes

• Faster, more enjoyable sailing in light winds
• Less motoring
• Easy to use single-handed
• Pole stowage
• Covers anchor locker when set
• Additional hardware cost

The Seldén bowsprit is easy to install and rig, but less easy to stow.

With a bit of thought, though, this isn’t a problem.

Once, when sailing into a quiet anchorage and going forward to take the anchor out of the anchor locker, I realised I couldn’t because the pole was rigged over the top – I had to de-rig the sail to access the anchor.

It’s a mistake I only made once.

Now if I’m anchoring, I’ll take the anchor out and leave it on the bow roller.

This test is as much about the Magic Zero from Crusader sails as it is the bowsprit.

Sailing single-handed , I think nothing of rigging in the marina and using it on the water.

Comparing performance, my 135% genoa would make 4.5-5 knots (with an apparent wind of 12 knots at 60°), the Magic Zero would take my Sadler 32 to 7 knots.

In light winds, where before I’d have to motor, I can happily coast along at 4 knots with the Magic Zero drawing nicely.

Rarely has a trip gone by in the five years since installing it when I haven’t used it at some point.

About the author

Graham Snook is a photographer and journalist who has been testing yachts and equipment for over 20 years. He cruises a Sadler 32.

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THE ADJUSTABLE BOWSPRIT

100% carbon fiber frame., for asym spinnakers & code 0., adjustable & removable..

The Trogear carbon fiber bowsprits, for asymm spinnakers & Code0, are below deck or deck mountable. For sailboats 20′-70′ including catamarans and trimarans. 

The trogear difference, adjust the sail luff tension from the cockpit fold it to an upright position when at the dock or attaching sails removable below deck or deck mountable lightweight and strong us patent 9643701 it is an ideal after market addition for sailboats without a bowsprit, and is easier and safer to use than a traditional spinnaker pole. excellent for short-handed sailing., safer.  easier.  faster..

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“I sailed solo yesterday and the (Trogear) A-Sprit worked flawlessly. I tested it pretty hard, going up to about 55 apparent in 9-10 knots of wind, to where it would collapse and reattach flow, which is probably the highest shock load it will see. It worked perfectly. I was averaging about 7 knots around 60-70 apparent. QUITE AWESOME!” ~Scot Citron, Ericson 35, San Diego

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Quick Tip: Bowsprits

• By Cruising World Staff
• Updated: November 10, 2015

With many sailors choosing to refit older cruisers, and the new top of the line cruisers from J/Boats to Euphoria sporting either fixed or retractable sprits, many are asking if a bowsprit is really necessary.

In short: If you plan on using an asymmetrical cruising chute, then yes, a bowsprit will significantly enhance the performance of your a-sail.

Many people are opting for the ease and performance offered by asymmetrical spinnakers to replace the traditional symmetrical spinnakers on their cruising boats. If you are flying an a-sail, a bowsprit will significantly enhance the performance of the sail by reducing the blanket effect of the main. The longer the sprit, the less of an effect your main will have on your chute’s performance. If you’re interested in speed, a bowsprit will also allow you to carry a larger sail. Most importantly though, a bowsprit will make shorthanded sailing much easier. A bowsprit makes maneuvers and sail handling – particularly gybing – significantly easier, a very important factor for small crews.

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Each sprit is specifically sized to match the boat and can be rigged to use with continuous line furling systems or custom configured. Depending on installation, the sprit pole can also be lifted up out of the way or removed.

Increases downwind performance, can be used with a continuous line furling system, professional installation recommended

The kit includes all parts necessary for installation except the stays. The kit comes with sprit pole, UTS cross bar bracket., end fitting and stainless steel tangs for the stays.

The pole is clear anodized to military standards and made of 6063-T6 marine alloy.

We strongly recommend that this product be professionally installed. For a list of Forespar dealers in your area please go to www.forespar.com

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Bow sprit add on

• Thread starter HD74
• Start date Mar 29, 2020
• Forums for All Owners
• Cruising Sailors

I would like to add a bowsprit to my hunter340. Any assistance will be greatly appreciated. I have looked at a trogear as well as a selden. Also will I have to add bob stay. Thanks  

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

Well break out 1.5 to 2.5 boat bucks for the hardware. Than another if the yard is going to install. I figure the job is a two plus day install and at least a bottle of 15 year rum.  

HD74 said: I would like to add a bowsprit to my hunter340. Any assistance will be greatly appreciated. I have looked at a trogear as well as a selden. Also will I have to add bob stay. Thanks Click to expand

Bill19233 said: I’ve had a bowsprit on my 340 for several years. It gets a lot of hard use when we’re racing, never installed a bob stay. It’s right at three feet past the anchor roller. "No Drill" Bowsprit Lots of video on the boat’s YouTube channel of the bowsprit in use. Click to expand

dlochner said: Whether a bobstay is necessary really depends on the design and intended use. Click to expand

Meriachee said: The Selden offering does not require a stay, and in fact, that may just get in the way. I heard a lot of doom and gloom about using the anchor hatch as a rear attachment point - how the pole work rip the hatch off and a great gaping hole would open up the lake and we'd all wind up in Australia. There's very little interaction at the rear of the pole, beyond general housekeeping. The vast majority of the loads and forces are, as Selden suggests, at the ring. View attachment 176671 Click to expand

Bill19233 said: The post was for a Hunter 340, I would be surprised if they want to use the bowsprit for anything other than an a-sail or reacher tack mount. Also mentioned Selden and Trogear. I have never seen a Selden bowsprit with a bobstay, but I’m sure someone has. And a Trogear requires an adjustable bobstay. On my Hunter 340, a bobstay has not been necessary with the length of bowsprit I have and flying a code 3 asymmetrical with the halyard just above the forestay. I would not recommend putting the halyard at the masthead and getting an oversized a-sail with no backstay on a Hunter 340. If you are thinking about installing a reacher on a top down furler, you might consider a bowsprit with a bobstay to keep the luff tight. Click to expand

Correct. The kite pulls the pole up and the ring acts as a fulcrum. Oddly enough, there isnt that much force on the aft end. I have two rubber feet on the aft end, and the pole tends to sit to one or the other, when on the Wichard cleat. If you lean on the aft end, both feet will be on the deck. Ive never seen the sail push it down that hard. Your experience might differ, but since i made this from scratch, i tend to watch it very, very closely.  

Thanks Bill I was looking thru your pics great! At the aft end of sprit that must be a custom mount, If so would love to get the material and installation instruction. What length is the sprit.  

HD74 said: Thanks Bill I was looking thru your pics great! At the aft end of sprit that must be a custom mount, If so would love to get the material and installation instruction. What length is the sprit. Click to expand

Here are some interesting alternatives posted in 2018: Adding a bowsprit  

Hayden Watson

Here is alink to a post on a guy that made an aluminum version of the Trogear style sprit. The pictures begin at post #73 and a complete bill of materials with cost is in #80. homemade Trogear  

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