hunter legend 306 sailboatdata

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Boat review: Hunter Legend 36

• Millie Diamond
• December 25, 2014

Our verdict on the Hunter Legend 36

Hunter Legend 36

Product Overview

Manufacturer:.

What’s she like to sail?

Having sailed most Legends since their introduction, I have complete confidence in the rig’s integrity. The 36 is reasonably well arranged for shorthanded sailing, with two-speed Lewmar 40ST genoa winches by the helm and the mainsheet traveller control on the arch. All other control lines, bar kicker and topping lift, are led aft to the cockpit.

She is lively in blustery conditions and heels noticeably, but once in her groove she strides forward with the log hovering around 6 knots. In gusts over 20 knots it’s best to drop the traveller car at the leeward end of the track and play the mainsheet.

She points pretty well for a bilge-keeler, once you get the sails properly balanced, but needs reefing early. During earlier tests, we maintained a respectable 5.8 knots at 40° off a 24-knot apparent wind. Leeway was evident, but not awful, and improved when we reefed her. She’s principally driven by her powerful mainsail, so I’d fit a third reef if planning an open-ocean passage. On a reach she flies, with the log usually showing 7-8 knots. Off the wind she tracks reasonably well, but the swept spreaders limit boom movement.

What’s she like in port and at anchor?

As with all Legends she has a wide and spacious cockpit with straight seats and a sturdy cockpit table. The mainsheet arch makes an ideal support for a bimini or cockpit tent for northern waters. There is a deep cockpit locker to port, with a step and a light, and a useful high-fiddled shelf for bits and pieces along the back. A fold-down helm seat forms a step to the swimming platform, which also features two lazarette lockers and a telescopic boarding ladder.

She’s well set up for anchoring, with a twin bow roller and a chain locker that contains a below-deck windlass. There are six sturdy cleats set within the moulded toerail, making fairleads unnecessary.

Down below she is beamy, bright, airy and voluminous – so much so that she’ll probably be the boat everyone heads to for evening drinks when the weather’s not so good. She shouldn’t prove problematic in a marina as she handles well under power, with no noticeable quirks other than a slight delay in response, due to the saildrive prop being a long way from the rudder. She should happily cruise at 6 knots-plus, at around 2,800rpm.

Would she suit you and your crew?

Legends (Hunters in the US) are renowned for their voluminous and comfortable accommodation. The standard of fit-out below wasn’t necessarily the highest quality, but is mitigated by a comprehensive standard inventory and many home comforts not normally found on a production cruiser of that era, such as sprung mattresses, top- and front-opening fridges, pressurised hot water, separate shower stall, wet locker, and more. Cabins and berths are generous in size and stowage plentiful, making her ideal for cruising with friends.

On deck her layout is straightforward and easy to work with just a couple on board. Sail handling doesn’t require a tame gorilla every time you want to sail, although the large mainsail takes a little getting used to and early reefing is advisable if you want to relax.

In all, she is a competent sailing yacht, easily handled and fun to sail. Although her wide, open cockpit and shallow coamings wouldn’t inspire confidence in extreme conditions, as a marina-hopping weekender she offers all the comforts of a modern, spacious seaside apartment with bags of room for guests. Guide price (2004–2010 boat) £59,000-£114,000

LOA 10.85m (35ft 6in)

LWL 9.35m (30ft 7in)

Beam 3.74m (12ft 3in)

Draught 1.25m (4ft 11in)

Sail area 67m 2 (721sq ft)

Engine Yanmar 3YM30

Displacement 6,304kg (13,900 lb)

Ballast 2,643kg (5,828 lb)

Fuel 172 lit (38gal)

Water 340 lit (75gal)

Designer Glenn Henderson

Builder Luhrs Marine

Class Association www.legendowners.com

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A few Hunter 306 questions

• Thread starter Arbee
• Start date Feb 17, 2022
• Hunter Owner Forums
• Ask A Hunter Owner

Hi, I thought about posting these 306 questions separately but didn't want to spam the forum. We've had our boat for 2 years now and, between frequent Covid lockdowns here in Melbourne, we are totally in love with the boat. As a floating weekender and comfortable and manageable inshore/coastal cruiser it's a perfect fit for the two of us. Questions for the brains trust here: Lee Helm. We have in-mast furling, and while it's a great convenience that we'd not give up, I have suspected that these fractional rigs that expect a big paunchy mainsail are perhaps not as well suited to the inevitable in-mast furling sail shape as mast head rigs. The lee helm is very "soft" and not a big issue, but I wondered if I'm missing some tricks to get more power from the main and balance the boat better. The headsail doesn't seem to be oversize and the tell tales on both sails set well, we just find the wheel position is off centre by about 15 degrees when sailing to windward. If I let go, the boat will gradually drift off. Motor rev range (2GM20F) and hull speed . The throttle cable moves easily from forward idle to 2000rpm then stiffens up considerably. I can then push it hard which gets me to about 2800rpm and just over 5 knots across the ground (across the tide) with our 14 x 10 fixed 3 blade prop. Then the throttle cable hits another "wall" that I've not been game to push it through. The local marina mechanic has assured me that all is "fine" a couple of times, just as car mechanics seem to tell you just before something breaks, but I'm not convinced. So, a couple of questions here. First, is the throttle pressure normally "graded" at all, or has it simply worn itself into a groove where the previous owner liked motoring at less than 2,000 rpm. And second, if the 306 hull speed is around 6.9 knots, what rpm should I normally expect to use to achieve that (or do I have the wrong prop size)? Waste Tank. On the past couple of occasions when emptying the tank, the indicator will only go down as far as about 20%. The marina assures me their pump is fine and I've not seen any pressure leaks in the fitting or hose. Do you have any particular cleaning ritual that you follow to keep the sensor and tank free of build up or paper debris. It doesn't get a heavy duty work out (that's what marina toilets are for!). Thanks for any insights or wisdom you can provide! Cheers, Robert Charisma, 2004 Hunter 306 Melbourne, Australia  

Hey Robert! Fellow 2004 306 owner here. We're in a similar position, although I've only had mine for slightly more than one season. I've only been sailing for slightly longer than that, having started out in a Force 5 dinghy two seasons ago. We're on the hard now for the season, but the countdown clock has started and I can't wait to get back on the water. I'm way too much of a novice to comment on any weather/lee helm issues. I certainly remember not quite being able to balance my sail plan but attributed that to user error more than any particular design issue. I tended to keep my sails pretty small as the wind got stronger, and the wheel always felt pretty light, but I was certainly never able to just let go and keep sailing the same tack. I've been able to get my 2gm20f beyond 3000 rpm, and I want to say at least 3200, maybe even 3400, but I can't remember exactly for certain. I don't know my prop configuration either. Even with 3000+ rpm, I don't remember being able to get much past 5.5 knots or so. I figured that was just the 2gm20f being a tad underpowered for the 306. It gets me in and out of the marina well enough, but I'd love to know how to optimize this combo to get a little closer to hull speed. I spent most of last season struggling with the head and not being able to flush very well, or fully empty the tank. Then one day as I was washing the boat I noticed a little fuzz sticking out of the holding tank vent (aft starboard side) and proceeded to pull out a surprisingly large spider along with what I can only assume was a spider's nest. A sharp shriek and a few swipes of a pipe cleaner later, and I've been flushing with ease and pumping out clean like a champ. So you might want to check that the spiders haven't laid claim to your vent.  

• one is quick to turn,
• the other plows straight
• One has a wide belly and carries it towards the stern
• the other s more symmetrical in shape yet the beam width is within .25ft of each other.

Most weather or lee helm issues can be solved through trim correction. So a good sail trim guide (Don Guillette's book, available in SBO store), should clear up these issues. Once you're satisfied you need more than that you may consider more complex solutions like rig adjustment, equipment mods and sail alteration. Here are a few comments on trim adjustment for balancing the sail plan (especially important if you use an auto pilot). Essentially, if you have lee helm you'll want less power on the headsail and more on the main. Make the jib flatter and the main rounder... that simple enough for you? heh, heh. Move the jib lead back make the head sail flatter (de power) and then examine your mainsail's shape. Move the outhaul forward to increase draft depth. This adds power to main. You can also experiment with the sheet and traveler. Putting more tension on the mainsheet will add power to the sail by closing the leech. Laying back and looking up at the leech while this adjustment is made will reveal its effect. Once you feel the sail plan is balanced, you can adjust for apparent wind direction changes by playing the traveler or steering to the tell tales. Generally, we use the steering tell tales (the lowest set of headsail tells) when we are sailing close hauled, attempting to make progress upwind, and we make small traveler adjustments (playing it) to tweak the main's angle of attack when we want to maintain a particular course or react to sudden gusts. Once you've experimented with all trim settings and feel there's nothing left in the bag, and that your sails themselves are not creating a weather or lee helm problem, then you can make some rig adjustments. Moving the center of effort aft can help with lee helm. That involves RAKING.... NOT the same as BENDING ....the mast. Raking is like leaning the mast forward or back and you use the shrouds to do that on fractional rigs. Anyhow... you need to go to any spar manufacturer's website, or simply google "mast tuning guide" and you will get a plethora of info. Finally, your sails. I have literally no experience with roller furling mains and can offer you no insight there. All I can say is, keep researching and asking questions. Balancing the rig is your goal, go for it. Good luck, have fun.  

Got info from @Joe Before you start to furl the main, remember you eased the outhaul to add power and tighten the outhaul up to allow a smooth furl. A bunched sail in the mast is no fun.  

jdrutten said: I've been able to get my 2gm20f beyond 3000 rpm, and I want to say at least 3200, maybe even 3400, but I can't remember exactly for certain. I don't know my prop configuration either. Even with 3000+ rpm, I don't remember being able to get much past 5.5 knots or so. I figured that was just the 2gm20f being a tad underpowered for the 306. It gets me in and out of the marina well enough, but I'd love to know how to optimize this combo to get a little closer to hull speed. I spent most of last season struggling with the head and not being able to flush very well, or fully empty the tank. Then one day as I was washing the boat I noticed a little fuzz sticking out of the holding tank vent (aft starboard side) and proceeded to pull out a surprisingly large spider along with what I can only assume was a spider's nest. A sharp shriek and a few swipes of a pipe cleaner later, and I've been flushing with ease and pumping out clean like a champ. So you might want to check that the spiders haven't laid claim to your vent. Click to expand

Yanmar 2GM20F blew black smoke

Thanks @jdrutten , that's a great thread and answered my question I think. Sounds like 5+ knots at 2,800rpm is about right and I should be pushing for a higher rev range for max hp. I'm keen to resolve this now as I've just replaced a totally clogged elbow that was making the problem worse. So it's better, but no cigar yet - I'd be happy with the ability to cruise at 6 knots.  

Arbee said: in-mast furling config has a slightly larger headsail area and slightly smaller main area, the furling main shape has much less roach than the standard main. Click to expand

• Guidelines for Good Mainsail Shape
• Upwind Sail Trim Archives

jssailem said: While the swept back fractional rig design on your 306 could accommodate a larger roach on your sail, the space in the mast for a furled sail might not. The compromise of sail design (and thus sail control and function) is dependent on the systems you have on your boat. Click to expand

That sounds like a good idea. Just remember to release the trim tension when you begin to furl the main. Main sail furlers like the sail “just right” for optimum function.  

Crazy Dave Condon

On in mast furling, the rake has been discussed but prebend should be limited to 1 degree. Otherwise, the furling mainsail will jam within the mast.  

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I am interested in the Hunter 306 as well as the Feeling 29 DI; I am really interested in the Hunter 306, for traveling between Maui and back to California. From what I have read regarding the Hunter 306, it’s a very good boat, but they fail to mention if it was sea worthy, and not just for cruising the coast. It’s defiantly big enough for a few friends and myself from time to time. Also I can’t find a price range for her, does anyone know what the basic price would be for a brand new Hunter 306?  

To make trips like that in a production boat I would opt for a Pacific Seacraft or and Island Packet. Thw Hunter is a very nice inshore to inland cruser I have no opinion on the Feelings but freom the weight and the fact that it sounds like a swing keel I would look for a full keeled boat. I think you can still find afew Pacific Seacraft 31s But boats of this caliber aren''t cheep..  

You can find base prices on the Hunter website. As to sailing a suh a price point, value boat to Hawaii, take a look at the story: http://www.equipped.org/0698rescue.htm (thanks to whomever put this link up a few months ago - it''s a great read...). I''d put my money on the Catalina 36 in a sec. Cobraman, I gotta say, that you suggest such a trip in either of these boats hints you might want to get some more daysailing in before you consider overnighting...  

Cobraman and Sailingfool: (Surely, first names aren''t that risky or time consuming to use on these posts...) I think I''m the one who posted the URL on the Catalina that didn''t make it to Hawaii. I''m not terribly keen on that being a sole reference to the question of taking a high-volume ''factory boat'' like a Catalina to Hawaii as it was a very early C36 and even had a steering failure resulting from poor design which Catalina subsequently modified. A hatch that tore off was also underspec''d for that kind of passage, something I''m guessing (hoping, perhaps) Catalina''s CE rating process would now catch and not permit to happen (altho'' there is no guarantee of this when buying a Catalina on the American market). I guess what I''m saying is that, if we''re going to look at a failed C36 attempt to reach Hawaii when commenting on Cobraman''s plans, then we should also acknowledge the same boat model (C36) has won its class on the same passage (in the West Marine Pacific Cup) and also been singlehanded & multi-crewed multiple times in the same race over the last decade. (Remember: each of these boats must also be returned to the West Coast, a different kind of passage, once the race is completed). Having said all that, I think you (Cobraman) need to be especially careful as you move down in size and contemplate an ocean passage, as smaller boats (perhaps the Hunter 306 fits this caution perfectly) are even less intentionally designed and built to the strength needed for an ocean passage. E.g. there''s a Hunter 290 across from me right now and, as I inspected its marginal rig the other day (it''s sailed along the English Channel on occasion, which is what peeked my interest), I can say it must take a very brave or naive person to cross an ocean in this boat. Also, keep in mind there''s a lot of off-wind work going over and I keep hearing expressed regrets about using the B&R rig in downwind sailing because of mainsail chafe and not being able to boom out and vang down the sail appropriately for the course one needs to sail. (I will refrain from commenting on the absence of a backstay in such conditions - offshore, in a big sea, with convective weather common at times - except to remind potential Hunter shoppers that the B&R rig was chosen so that Hunter could REDUCE the mast cross section and strength (diameter) of the rigging wire, not to utilize its advantages to make it stronger). Re: Feeling centerboard boats, I would encourage you to try and find some BB''s in Western Europe, and also track down the UK distributor (who speaks English). Feeling yachts are much more common over here (tho'' not anywhere near the big brands) and you''d likely find useful information by inquiring about them among W Europeans. Good luck on the search! Jack  

Wow, thanks for all of the info, I will be very careful in my research. I am surprised that a C36 did not make it to Hawaii. After talking to my girlfriend about this, we decided that we are going to look into a Hunter 466, but that is getting alittle out of our price range, but never the less, we still want to look into it. Does anyone now how the Hunter 466 handles on the sea? The info from their web site says that its sea worthy.  

Cobraman, If you,ve got the means to consider a hunter 466 why then don,t you consider something like a pre-owned Swan or Sabre or somthing else with proven seaworthyness.To me (and alot of other sailors)I wouldn''t even take a hunter out of the bay! Why are you so surprised to hear that a Catalina didn''t make it to Hawaii?? Don''t forget thats it''s far more important to have the skill, experiance and knowlage to go open ocean voyaging than to just have a boat that is seaworthy. Dennis  

306 Having been the owner of the 290 Hunter and loving it I don't see it as a ocean crossing boat. I would not try anything but coastal cruising with a 306,I like Hunters and now own a Hunter 36 and still would not cross a ocean only because I am not a ocean crossing kind of guy.  

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Hunter Legend 306

Posted in: News | By: Conwy

Owners Remarks

This Hunter Legend 306 Yacht, Quokka has been well looked after and and been offered for sale very reluctantly as the current owner is retiring from boating. She has been very lightly used and the boat and the engine have been fully winterised and serviced every year since she has been with her current owner.The external hull and topsides have been polished annually and the interior is in very good condition. She was fitted with a full cockpit tent, sun awning and sprayhood in 2012. This vessel is advertised at a reduced price and viewing is highly recommended. For all viewings contact the Network Yacht Brokers, Conwy team. 01492 580001

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• Sailboat Reviews

Hunter 30: Still the Affordable Fantasy

Production coastal cruiser offers a lot of boat for not a lot of bucks..

Hunter Marine began building auxiliary sailboats in 1974, largely as the result of the first oil embargo and the new energy consciousness that followed. Founded by Warren Luhrs, Hunter began as a division of the powerboat-maker Silverton Yachts, which was interested in expanding its offerings and taking advantage of the new interest in saving fuel.

The companys aim was high-volume production, keeping prices low by standardizing design, making as few tooling changes as possible, and offering its boats fully equipped-while other companies were selling things like bow pulpits and lifelines as options on a 30-foot boat. The original Hunter boats were marketed as the affordable fantasy and came with sails, dock lines, fenders, life jackets, and fire extinguishers, in what Hunter called the Cruise Pak of standard features. About the only option available on the early Hunters was a choice of shoal- or deep-draft keel.

Photo by CeCe Stoldt

In 2012, Hunter Marine was sold to David Marlow, the builder of Marlow Yachts. With this change of ownership came a change in corporate goals and product offerings. Hunter Marine began-like its chief competitor, Catalina Yachts-with a small group of standardized models. From 1974 through 1977, it offered only the Hunter 25, 27, and 30 models, and from 1977 through 1979, the builder added only the 33 and 37. Today, Hunter-Marlow makes nine production models ranging from trailerable daysailors (15 to 22 feet) to mid-size (27 to 37 feet) and large (40 to 50 feet) keelboats.

Also, Hunters high-volume-production business model has been replaced with the Marlow ethos, which is more focused on yacht-level quality than production volume. Marlow-Hunter produces about 100 boats each year, including trailerable and cruising sailboats, as well as Mainship powerboats, according to Greg Emerson, Marlow-Hunters director of sales.

The Hunter 30

Designed by John Cherubini and built from 1974 to 1983, the Hunter 30 is a coastal cruiser that was designed to offer a lot of boat for little money. With a focus on streamlining construction to boost production volume, Hunter aimed to offer an affordable coastal racer-cruiser. More than 1,000 Hunter 30s were built over the nine-year production run; however, a number of them were sold as Quest 30s, which was essentially a sail-away, bare-hull kit boat, and the purchaser completed the interior and the fitting out.

For this report, we checked out a 1980 Hunter 30 (hull #934) and a 1978 model (hull #568). In contrast to later Hunters, the early Cherubini-designed models were conservative and conventional in design. The longer sister models-the 33 and 37-were, in our opinion, good-looking boats, moderately styled, with an attractive bow line and sheer, and a pleasing coachroof. The smaller boats, the 25 and 27, instead traded in some styling characteristics in order to pack a lot of room into a short waterline, which left them with higher-sided with boxier cabinhouses.

The 30 lies somewhere in between-handsome from some angles but a bit too flat in the sheer and high in the cabintop to impress traditionalists. Still, most of those traditionalists would consider it a much more attractive boat than the modern Euro-styled Hunters.

The 30s hull is very full-to maximize interior space-but otherwise, its quite typical of the racer-cruisers of the 1970s. Overall, the boat is 29 feet, 11 inches long-the maximum allowable length under the then-popular Midget Ocean Racing Club (MORC) rule. The short overhangs result in a long waterline, fundamental for sailing speed. The beam, at just a hair over 10 feet, is moderate by 1970s standards, but narrow in comparison to the big 30-footers that have appeared since. The Catalina 30, for example, is nine inches wider, and many current boats carry a foot more beam (and carry it further aft) than the Hunter 30.

A conventional fin keel, drawing 5 feet, 3 inches, was standard, with a 4-foot shoal keel as an option. We test-sailed the deep-keel version, and suspect it is much to be preferred, unless you absolutely need the shallower draft. Company literature lists the displacement and ballast as identical on both models. That would make the shallow-keel version more tender, requiring crew to reef early as the wind pipes up.

The foredeck is on the smaller side for anchor work and sail handling because the cabinhouse extends quite far forward. The 1978 and later models have an anchor well built into the foredeck that is self-contained and large enough to hold over 400 feet of rode, or enough for two anchors. The test boat we sailed had a furling jib, a desirable option in view of the smallish foredeck.

A significant shortcoming of the boats design is the narrow sidedecks. The wide cabinhouse makes it clear that the designers top priority was interior room, with deck work being a distant consideration. Its near impossible to get past the chainplates, especially on the leeward side when under a press of canvas, without climbing atop the cabinhouse.

The boat has a good cockpit, a bit smaller than some other 30-footers (again, a result of maximizing cabin space). A wheel was standard on the boat; its small, which is good for moving around the cockpit, but less than ideal for helming, in our opinion

A T cockpit became standard following the 1980 models, and some people preferred that arrangement; however, you could lie down on the older bench seats, and you can’t with the T. The bench seats would benefit from some sort of drain arrangement since they trap water. A deep lazarette behind the cockpit offers additional on-deck storage.

A peculiarity of the decks on the early Hunters is that the nonskid pattern was not molded in as is customary on fiberglass decks. Instead, a nonskid aggregate was painted on. Given the age of the Hunter 30, the original aggregate is likely long gone, and owners have had to apply fresh nonskid paint or nonskid mat. Fortunately, such a repair is straightforward and an easy (although time-consuming), do-it-yourself project (see PS August 2008 and November 2013 online).

On the boats we examined, there was minimal sail-handling equipment on deck-one pair of jib-sheet winches, a small halyard winch for the jib, no winch for the main halyard, no Cunningham or vang, no control lines on the traveler, no flattening reef, a single jiffy reef block, two jib lead blocks out on the toerail, and no backstay adjuster. However, most H30 owners have added deck gear over the years, including a running backstay, so what youll find on Hunter 30s today will run the gamut. A large number of Hunter 30 owners who responded to our survey reported that their boat was rigged for singlehanding, making it easy to sail with a short- or single-handed crew.

The original Hunter 30 owners manual was a great example of a good, clear, simple manual. It has always amazed us how many other boat builders provide the buyer with little or no printed information. If you happen to own or buy a Hunter 30 (or pretty much any older Hunter model) thats missing its manual, simply download the PDF of the original from the Hunter-Marlow website.

courtesy of Kasi McCain

The 30s interior was a strong selling point for the Hunter 30. Almost every owner that responded to our survey commented on the size of the boats interior-often relative to low price-when talking about their reasons for buying the 30.

The interior is well laid out, but plain. Theres a lot here for the money, however. Some of the original details could use changing-the alcohol stove, lack of vents, and small water tank-and many owners have upgraded or modified these systems.

The Hunter 30s layout is conventional, with a good V-berth forward, then a head with small hanging locker opposite, settee berths on each side of the saloon with a double, a drop-leaf table in the middle, an L-shaped galley, with the sink underneath the companionway, and a quarter berth, with a small chart table at its head. The berths are of good size, and on some boats, the port settee can convert to a double berth.

The head area is roomy with enough space for comfortable showering and a door for privacy. The interior also offers lots of storage for a boat this size: The hanging locker can accommodate plenty of clothes and has an overhead shelf; and there are three large storage lockers in the V-berth, plus a host of drawers and under-seat storage in the saloon.

The icebox on the boat we looked at had minimal insulation and would benefit from several more inches all around. Many owners reported having upgraded with icebox conversion kits.

The deckhouse is high and wide, and this gives a look of spaciousness below. The white hull liner overhead helps offset the extensive teak veneer on the bulkheads, ceilings, sole, and furniture.

There are adequate ports and hatches to allow in enough light. The opening portlights-Hunter was one of the first production boats to offer numerous opening ports as standard-offer good ventilation. If youre considering buying a Hunter 30 that has not had any ventilation upgrades, you will probably want to add some Dorades or solar vents to keep the air moving when the ports and hatches must be closed.

The finish downbelow is typical of low-cost production boats, which depend on pre-fab components that can be rapidly installed in the hull. In our owner surveys, there were a great many complaints about the original joinerwork, door hinges, and hardware. The original cabin sole was made of teak veneer, so in instances of water damage, it often cannot be repaired but must be replaced.

For the first four years of the Hunter 30s production, a 12-horsepower Yanmar diesel was standard. After 1978, standard power was a 15-horsepower Yanmar, followed by an 18-horsepower Yanmar.

The 12 was a particularly noisy engine; the later models were less so. Most of the owners who completed our survey thought the engines were minimal for powering the boat, especially in any kind of head seas; however, by traditional standards, even the 12-horsepower model should be adequate for the weight and length of the boat. Although the 12 is highly praised for its reliability, many people will find the later Hunter 30s to be more desirable because of their larger, smoother-running engines.

Engine accessibility was criticized by almost all of the owners who completed our survey. Access is awful, said one. You must be a left-handed midget to work on this engine.

We thought accessibility was far from ideal, but not excessively bad for this size boat. With a big interior and a small cockpit, its hard to stuff an engine under the cockpit sole without cramping.

The Hunter 30 we sailed (with a Yanmar 12) was well behaved under power; it backed nicely, turned crisply, and drove through strong winds (in protected water) with no problem. Our impression was that the engines vibration and noise were more of a concern than its power. Anyone buying the boat with the Yanmar 12 will probably want to spend the time to get perfect alignment. Wed also look closely at the engine mounts and the shaft-strut mounting.

Some owners have re-powered their boats, usually opting for a Yanmar 2QM15 or Yanmar 2GM20F diesel with good results. A two-blade solid prop was standard, but a number of owners refitted the boat with a three-blade solid prop to improve powering. We doubt if the gain would offset the loss in sailing ability.

Theres a full skeg ahead of the rudder. If you have to remove the propeller shaft for some reason, youll have to remove the engine first, or tear the skeg off. On the shoal-draft version, the skeg also is something of a grounding vulnerability as the rudder is about as deep as the foot of the keel.

We were pleasantly surprised by the sailing performance of the Hunter 30. We sailed one in a long, triangular race-two triangles, then windward-leeward-windward legs-in heavy air, a little over 20 knots at the start.

Considering that the test boat had almost no sail controls and old sails, and that the underbody was rough and a bit weedy, the boat moved very well, going to weather respectably in a serious racing fleet, and reaching and running competitively.

The jib we used was the 130-percent genoa on roller furling, and this was about right for the boat in those conditions. When the wind faded near the end of race, the boat was clearly under-canvassed.

The boat is slightly under-rigged with its short mast. To sail well in light air, especially with the solid prop that most 30s have, a sizeable genoa is required. One Florida Panhandle-based owner reports that she sails with a 155 or 170 genoa, both of which are ideal in light winds and can be reefed with furling if the wind picks up. This boat sails nicely and does better in higher winds than light wind. …. It responds very quickly when tacking and can almost sail itself in steady winds, she explained.

We agree: The 30 is a good sailing boat, responsive and easy to steer. Its PHRF rating of 186 (New England fleet) would probably be very favorable. If the boat were rigged with a full complement of sail-handling gear and modern sails, it should be able to stay with other 30-footers of the same era, such as the Pearson 30, Catalina 30 (not the tall rig), and ODay 30. Since sailing is what sailing is all about, our opinion of the Hunter 30 was improved dramatically when we took a first in the races main-and-jib class.

Conclusions

The Hunter 30 was a boat built to a price point-to appeal to the sailor who wanted a lot of boat at an affordable price.

As long as a buyer understands that, not expecting custom quality at barnyard prices, the Hunter 30 can be a good value in a used boat. Many on the used market today have been repowered and had systems upgrades added like refrigeration. Be sure to look for delamination issues, check the nonskid, and examine the cabinhouse around the mast for sagging, as many of these Hunters have had compression post issues.

Its easy to pay too much for a used boat these days, but for a good-condition, roomy coastal cruiser that can make a good showing around the buoys, the Hunter 30 can be had at a decent price-a lot of cruisability for minimal investment. Youll find Hunter 30s on the used-boat market to be priced about the same as comparable boats (Catalina 30 and Pearson 30), with an average pricetag of about $13,500.

Pros -Many have been re-rigged for easy singlehanding from the cockpit -Roomy cockpit for a 30-footer -Minimal topside brightwork -Sizeable anchor well on deck -Many have been upgraded to furling headsails -Handholds run the full length of cabin

Cons -Limited foredeck space -Very narrow sidedecks -Standard, original ventilation was lacking, needs upgrades -Pre-1980 bench seats trap water, need drain added

Hunter Marine built the 30 with an aim to maximize interior space. 1. The galley came standard with an alcohol stove, a deep ice box, and a small sink; many owners have updated the cooktop and added some type of refrigeration. The sink is too small to effectively wash dishes. 2. The settees offer full-length berths. 3. The H30 fits a fair bit of interior storage in a small space, including drawers behind and under the settees. 4. The V-berth has additional storage under the bed, which is large enough to comfortably sleep two (friendly) adults. 5. A very small nav desk and a full-length quarter berth are situated to port of the companionway. Electronics can be mounted inside the companionway.

In construction, the Hunter 30 is very conventional—an economical, solid-glass layup in the hull and a balsa-cored deck with plywood for backing under cleats. A conventional flange, with a through-bolted aluminum toerail joins the hull and deck together. The basic construction is quite a contrast to that of present-day Hunters, which can generally be described as highly engineered and Euro-styled, at the opposite end of the spectrum from the early Hunters like the 30.

Testers’ opinion of the fiberglass work was that it was good but a little light—marginal for offshore sailing but strong enough for typical coastal cruising.

On one of the Hunter 30s we looked at, there was extensive delamination of the cockpit sole and the bench seats. There also were signs of sloppy glass work—ragged edges and un-resinated glass—in compartments and other out-of-sight places.

Quality-control problems also were cited by a surprisingly high number of the Hunter 30 owners we surveyed for this article. The problems often mentioned included improperly hooked-up fuel-return lines, chafed hoses, leaking ports, poorly fitted hatch boards and lazarette covers, improperly installed exhaust systems, and so on.

The Hunter 30 compares favorably, in price and performance, to other production boats in the same size range and of similar vintage.

• Marlow-Hunter
• Hunter Owners Group

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Great review and enlightening! Thanks for your knowledge!

Great coverage on the 30! I owned a Hunter 30 1994-2000. Live aboard at Harbor Island San Diego. Very nice experience. Yes, the Yanmar 15 was a bit noisy. I thought For a while there was mechanical issues but Found out it was it’s nature.

Good article. I bought a 1977 Hunter 30, and it does sail surprisingly well for a older production boat. The engine works okay but is a bit noisy. It will soon be for sail as my daughter is the sailor and moved overseas for college.

Almost 40 years in my 1978 27 ft. Your comments were all on the mark. The original 8 hp gave out after 30 years and repowered with the 15 hp and replace the packing stuffing box with seal. Replaced the ports in the head and vee. For the time available I had to sail it worked out well. Fifteen years on Great Lakes and 22 plus in FL.

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The Hunter 306 is an American sailboat, that was built by Hunter Marine in the United States starting in 2001. The design is out of production. The design forms a scaled series with the Hunter 326 and the 356.

The Hunter 306 is a small recreational keelboat, built predominantly of fiberglass. It has a fractional sloop B&R rig, an internally-mounted spade-type rudder and a fixed fin keel. It displaces 7,150 lb (3,243 kg) and carries 2,550 lb (1,157 kg) of ballast. The boat has a draft of 5.33 ft (1.62 m) with the standard wing keel and 3.83 ft (1.17 m) with the optional shoal draft keel.

The boat is fitted with a Japanese Yanmar diesel engine of 18 hp (13 kW). The fuel tank holds 20 U.S. gallons (76 L; 17 imp gal) and the fresh water tank has a capacity of 40 U.S. gallons (150 L; 33 imp gal).

The boat has a PHRF racing average handicap of 186 with a high of 207 and low of 168. It has a hull speed of 6.95 kn (12.87 km/h).

Source: Wikipedia . Image Credit: Wikipedia

LOA: 29.92 ft LWL: 26.92 ft Beam: 10.75 ft Draft: 5.33 ft Displacement: 7150.00 lbs Ballast: 2550.00 lbs Hull type: Wing Keel Hull construction: FG Rigging type: B&R

Hunter 306 for sale in the last 12 months

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Hunter 306 listing prices over time

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• Sailboat Guide

Hunter 36 Legend

Hunter 36 Legend is a 35 ′ 8 ″ / 10.9 m monohull sailboat designed by Glenn Henderson and built by Hunter Marine starting in 2001.

• 1 / 25 Lake Ray Hubbard, Dallas, TX, US 2007 Hunter 36 Legend $76,900 USD View
• 2 / 25 Lake Ray Hubbard, Dallas, TX, US 2007 Hunter 36 Legend $76,900 USD View
• 3 / 25 Lake Ray Hubbard, Dallas, TX, US 2007 Hunter 36 Legend $76,900 USD View
• 4 / 25 Lake Ray Hubbard, Dallas, TX, US 2007 Hunter 36 Legend $76,900 USD View
• 5 / 25 Lake Ray Hubbard, Dallas, TX, US 2007 Hunter 36 Legend $76,900 USD View
• 6 / 25 Lake Ray Hubbard, Dallas, TX, US 2007 Hunter 36 Legend $76,900 USD View
• 7 / 25 Lake Ray Hubbard, Dallas, TX, US 2007 Hunter 36 Legend $76,900 USD View
• 8 / 25 Lake Ray Hubbard, Dallas, TX, US 2007 Hunter 36 Legend $76,900 USD View
• 9 / 25 Lake Ray Hubbard, Dallas, TX, US 2007 Hunter 36 Legend $76,900 USD View
• 10 / 25 Lake Ray Hubbard, Dallas, TX, US 2007 Hunter 36 Legend $76,900 USD View
• 11 / 25 Lake Ray Hubbard, Dallas, TX, US 2007 Hunter 36 Legend $76,900 USD View
• 12 / 25 Lake Ray Hubbard, Dallas, TX, US 2007 Hunter 36 Legend $76,900 USD View
• 13 / 25 Lake Ray Hubbard, Dallas, TX, US 2007 Hunter 36 Legend $76,900 USD View
• 14 / 25 Lake Ray Hubbard, Dallas, TX, US 2007 Hunter 36 Legend $76,900 USD View
• 15 / 25 Lake Ray Hubbard, Dallas, TX, US 2007 Hunter 36 Legend $76,900 USD View
• 16 / 25 Lake Ray Hubbard, Dallas, TX, US 2007 Hunter 36 Legend $76,900 USD View
• 17 / 25 Lake Ray Hubbard, Dallas, TX, US 2007 Hunter 36 Legend $76,900 USD View
• 18 / 25 Lake Ray Hubbard, Dallas, TX, US 2007 Hunter 36 Legend $76,900 USD View
• 19 / 25 Lake Ray Hubbard, Dallas, TX, US 2007 Hunter 36 Legend $76,900 USD View
• 20 / 25 Lake Ray Hubbard, Dallas, TX, US 2007 Hunter 36 Legend $76,900 USD View
• 21 / 25 Lake Ray Hubbard, Dallas, TX, US 2007 Hunter 36 Legend $76,900 USD View
• 22 / 25 Lake Ray Hubbard, Dallas, TX, US 2007 Hunter 36 Legend $76,900 USD View
• 23 / 25 Lake Ray Hubbard, Dallas, TX, US 2007 Hunter 36 Legend $76,900 USD View
• 24 / 25 Lake Ray Hubbard, Dallas, TX, US 2007 Hunter 36 Legend $76,900 USD View
• 25 / 25 Lake Ray Hubbard, Dallas, TX, US 2007 Hunter 36 Legend $76,900 USD View

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Draft for Bilge or Shoal draft keel: 1.52m/5’ Thanks to David Cook for providing information on this yacht.

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• By Tom Neale
• Updated: December 5, 2001

The Hunter 376 is proof that when a boatbuilding outfit listens to its customers and cares enough to do a good job, everybody wins. In today’s market, this boat is priced so that many aspiring cruisers can afford to own and cruise one — but it isn’t cheaply built. Perhaps most important, it is built with an understanding of real-world cruising needs, from the obvious to the subtle.

Real-world maintenance forms the foundation of successful cruising. On that score, engine access aboard the Hunter 376 is stupendous. A well insulated box hinges up on a pneumatic lift to reveal a 36-horsepower Yanmar actually sitting out in the open, all sides available for servicing, even for the removal of major components.

Looking up, cabin headliners have inspection locations to access the backs of thru-deck fittings. Looking down, thru-hulls are easy to get at, neatly labeled and backed. The bilge pump is mounted on a platform that pulls up for straightforward access to both pump and strainer. The electrical panel comes equipped with a handy wiring diagram. Heavy-duty, heavily insulated electrical cable runs through anti-chafe conduit. An owner’s manual educates you on the boat’s systems. Missing are large amounts of high-maintenance exterior teak, but solid and conspicuous is a tough no-nonsense rub rail to protect the hull while docking, rafting and warping around pilings.

Cruising value is all about live-aboard comfort, too. Judiciously, the Hunter 376 offers a separate shower stall independent of the head, a feature considered by many a must when two or more are out on the water for any length of time. All hanging lockers are cedar lined. The forward stateroom has, in addition to one of these, plenty of drawers, a vanity with its own mirror and sink, and a window in the cabin bulkhead that opens into the saloon.

The galley to starboard is near the companionway to facilitate the passing up of food, and just aft of the dining area for convenient serving below. It includes Corian countertops, a three-burner propane stove with oven, two stainless steel sinks, a heavily insulated dual icebox and a microwave.

Seating in the saloon is exceptionally comfortable, obviously designed and angled for real bodies, not cardboard dummies. Fine woodwork, shelves for books and a standard CD stereo system increase the ambience. A wraparound deck skylight brings in plenty of residual natural light; in fact ventilation and lighting are abundant here and throughout the boat, which enjoys nine opening hatches with screens, seven opening ports with screens and seven fixed hull ports.

The master stateroom aft is located under the cockpit, but you can stand up, sit up in bed or on a small settee, store clothes in two small cedar-lined hanging lockers and drawers, put books and personal items on shelves, gain private access to the head and shower, watch the waves around you through hull ports, or look up at the stars at night through large opening hatches over your head.

hunt376.jpg

Topside, the cockpit coaming at the widest point in its oval shape extends out to the gunwales to maximize usable space. The cockpit is comfortable to sit in and boasts a user-friendly pedestal with an easily accessed inspection port for repairs and add-ons, plus a folding table. The cockpit serves as the operational center of the boat because all running rigging leads here. In addition, it opens aft to the stern platform for swimming, dinghy landing and outside showering. Beyond the hinged helmsman’s seat, two corner seats in the pushpit aft make for great perches under way. The deck is uncluttered, with easy foot passage forward from the cockpit all the way up to the heavy-duty dual-anchor rollers at the stemhead.

At this point you’re apt to be thinking that the boat is all comfort and no performance. Think again. Hunter has become of late a leader in the development of the deck-stepped fractional rig, with shrouds led aft through swept-back spreaders in lieu of a permanent backstay. This encourages a smaller foresail that’s easier to tack and a much larger, fully battened mainsail. The mainsail’s enhanced roach carried aloft makes it more efficient overall. The rig is drawn from a BOC-tested B&R design in which the shrouds terminate at chain plates attached to the hull’s stress-spreading grid. Instead of conventional four-point standing rigging, Hunter relies on a three-point system with one set fixed every 120 degrees. This, they note, can be compared to the notion of a three-legged stool, more stable than one with four legs.

This boat comes with a cast-lead bulb-wing keel of 5’0″ shoal draft or, optionally, 6’6″ deep draft. The keel is bolted on with seven 1″ 316-grade stainless bolts. This writer prefers an integral keel with internal lead ballast, but many differ on this topic. The rudder is carried by a tapered 5.5-inch-diameter reinforced fiberglass rudderpost. The anti-osmotic vinylester hull features solid hand-laid glass laminate below the waterline and balsa core above. The deck is cored with marine-grade plywood, except for load areas which are solid.

Many standard items, in addition to those noted, are sure to inspire any new boat buyer. These include cockpit speakers, a hot water heater, four life jackets, handheld flares, two fire extinguishers, tank gauges, cabin fans, anchor and rode, dishes, furling jib, Dutchman Mainsail Flaking System, wind vane, VHF radio and even a copy of Chapman’s. A winner, to say the least.

• More: 2001 - 2010 , 31 - 40 ft , Coastal Cruising , hunter marine , keelboat , monohull , Sailboat Reviews , Sailboats
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Hunter 43 legend

The hunter 43 legend is a 42.5ft b&r designed by hunter design team and built in fiberglass by hunter marine (usa) between 1989 and 1992..

The Hunter 43 legend is a light sailboat which is a reasonably good performer. It is reasonably stable / stiff and has a good righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a coastal cruiser. The fuel capacity is average. There is a good water supply range.

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New & Custom Home Builders in Elektrostal'

Location (1).

• Use My Current Location

Popular Locations

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• Elektrostal', Moscow Oblast, Russia

Featured Reviews for New & Custom Home Builders in Elektrostal'

• Reach out to the pro(s) you want, then share your vision to get the ball rolling.
• Request and compare quotes, then hire the Home Builder that perfectly fits your project and budget limits.

Before choosing a Builder for your residential home project in Elektrostal', there are a few important steps to take:

• Define your project: Outline your desired home type, features, and layout. Provide specific details and preferences to help the builder understand your vision.
• Establish a budget: Develop a comprehensive budget, including construction expenses and material costs. Communicate your budgetary constraints to the builder from the beginning.
• Timeline: Share your estimated timeline or desired completion date.
• Site conditions: Inform the builder about any unique site conditions or challenges.
• Local regulations: Make the builder aware of any building regulations or permits required.
• Custom Homes
• Floor Plans
• House Framing
• Land Surveying
• Site Planning

What do new home building contractors do?

Questions to ask a prospective custom home builder in elektrostal', moscow oblast, russia:.

If you search for Home Builders near me you'll be sure to find a business that knows about modern design concepts and innovative technologies to meet the evolving needs of homeowners. With their expertise, Home Builders ensure that renovation projects align with clients' preferences and aspirations, delivering personalized and contemporary living spaces.

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