iwc portugieser chronograph yacht club

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Introducing The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition 'Orlebar Brown'

Just in time for summer, a new sport watch and resort wear collection..

This year at IWC has been all about the refreshed Portugieser line of nautically inspired timepieces, which harken back to an important wristwatch made by IWC that used a large and accurate pocket watch movement. Today, we have a special edition of the sporty Portugieser Yacht Club to mark a new partnership between IWC and the British swimwear brand Orlebar Brown. 

Orlebar Brown was founded after its Creative Director, Adam Brown, detected a disconnect between what typically well-dressed guys wear socializing and what they tend to put on when they go to the pool. While changing from a pair of swim trunks into something more appropriate for lunch, a light went on, and Brown realized he wanted a pair that would look great away from the pool too. When you look at a pair of Orlebar Brown swim trunks, you can see how traditional tailoring influences their construction. Side tab adjusters and a four-part shaped waistband keep things refined, fresh, and stylish when heading from an afternoon at the pool out to drinks with friends. Though the company's swimwear collections are regularly refreshed on a seasonal basis, each suit comes with a five-year guarantee. They're swim trunks made to look great and to last.

Earlier this year, IWC dropped three main line models as part of its 2020 focus on the Portugieser line. Aesthetically, the new special edition version bridges the designs of the blue dial and silver-plated dial variations that we covered back in April. It does this while dispensing with the stainless steel bracelet in favor of the rubber strap with co-branded buckle seen above.

A white toweling blazer with blue piping from the new Orlebar Brown x IWC capsule collection.

The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition "Orlebar Brown" is being launched right in time for summer, alongside Orlebar Brown's new nine-piece resort wear capsule collection, designed with IWC. With its nautically influenced design, rubber strap, and custom co-branded buckle (which is fashioned after an Orlebar Brown side tab adjuster), this feels like a fun twist on a perennial favorite from the IWC Portugieser collection.

One of my favorite things about IWC's cal. 89361 flyback chronograph movement is its impact on the display. It allows for a clean and symmetrical two sub-dial layout while integrating chronograph hours and minutes into the upper sub-dial and reserving the lower one for a small hacking seconds. Usually, a chronograph would need three subdials to convey this much information. 

The Portugieser is, of course, a watch whose formidable size is one of its most distinctive design elements, and this watch is certainly a Portugieser in that regard. At nearly 45mm in diameter, it could be a bit overwhelming to those who only wear watches on the smaller end of the spectrum. Still, it has a very classic design, and the fact that it's a sporty chronograph on a rubber strap makes me think that this could be a pretty killer watch for these current warmer months.

Brand: IWC Model: Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition "Orlebar Brown" Reference Number: IW390704

Diameter: 44.6mm Thickness: 14.4mm Case Material: Stainless steel Dial Color: Blue and silver-plated dial Indexes: Rhodium-plated appliques Lume: Yes Water Resistance: 6 bar Strap/Bracelet: Blue rubber strap with textile inlay

Caliber: IWC 89361 Functions: Hours, minutes, small hacking seconds, flyback chronograph with chronograph hours and minutes in sub-dial at 12 o'clock, date Power Reserve: 68 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 vph Jewels: 38

Price: $12,500 Availability: July 2020

For more on the watch, click here , and for more on the capsule collection, click here.

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An Old Acquaintance: Reviewing the IWC Portugieser Chronograph

IWC has added several new models to the Portugieser family in recent years. One of them is the iconic chronograph. In this latest visit to the WatchTime archives, we tested this watch, our good old friend, which boasts a trendy green dial and is equipped with a manufacture caliber.

The Portugieser is one of IWC’s oldest and most prestigious product lines, with a dial that has hardly changed over 80 years. “That’s why we approached the project of designing the new collection very carefully and with tremendous respect for history,” Christoph Grainger-Herr, CEO of IWC, and Creative Director Christian Knoop explained.

The Portugieser’s Handsome Dial Remains Nearly Unchanged The impressive result puts every doubt to rest. Glancing at the attractive face of the Portugieser Chronograph, you instantly recognize a cherished old acquaintance, although the dial of our test watch is now a trendy green, and plays with the light. Another version comes with a burgundy dial. There’s also a boutique edition with an elegant blue dial and a rose-gold case.

The very distinctive, clear and functional dial is 38 mm in diameter and has recessed counters at 6 and 12, slim feuille hands and applied Arabic numerals. These features have so strongly influenced the Portugieser chronograph that even in the new version, no designer dared to replace the partly cut-away numerals 6 and 12 with arguably “simpler” index strokes. Comparing this latest update to the last fine tuning about 10 years ago, we find that the calibrations on the counters with inward-facing numerals, the lettering, and the slender quarter-second scale on the flange have all remained unchanged. As a whole, the latest version of this timeless watch retains its own character and remains loyal to its origins as a time-measuring instrument — not least because of the finely calibrated elapsed-seconds scale. With three intervening strokes between each pair of full-second lines, its markings correctly match the 4-Hz rhythm of a modified version of a movement from IWC’s recent 69000 caliber family.

IWC’s Favorite, at Last with a Manufacture Caliber Designated as number 69355, this caliber is the essential new feature in the latest Portugieser chronograph. As one of the most popular items in IWC’s portfolio, now it’s finally equipped with a manufacture caliber. This was not yet the situation a decade ago, when the still-young Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph was given a manufacture movement from the 89000 caliber series, which was introduced in 2007. The 69000 caliber family, which made its debut 10 years later, underwent four years of further development and was encased for the first time in the Ingenieur Chronograph in 2017.

With the newly designed 69000 caliber series, IWC is gradually replacing chronograph movements based on the ETA/Valjoux 7750 and at the same time offering a less costly alternative to the 89000 series of manufacture calibers. Our test watch comes with a $7,950 price tag. The least costly variant of the new Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph with Caliber 89361 sells for $12,100. Paying the additional charge also gets you a flyback function and a longer power reserve of 68 hours. The power reserve of Caliber 69355, on the other hand, is rather short by contemporary standards, at 46 hours, and this caliber relies on an index to adjust its hairspring’s active length — a simpler method of finely adjusting the rate than the eccentric screws on the rim of Caliber 89361’s balance in the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph.

Otherwise, chronograph Caliber 69355 similarly offers a sturdy and precise column wheel to control the stopwatch functions, a rocking pinion to couple the chronograph with the flow of force from the gear train and a modern bidirectional effective self-winding mechanism. This automatic winding, however, is not the Pellaton mechanism (named after the former IWC engineer) that’s installed in the calibers of the 89000 series, but a modern development from the Richemont Group.

The Movement’s Rate Upholds the Promise of Quality The positioning of the subdial for the continually running seconds at the 6 is unusual because most chronographs put this indicator at the 9. While other modifications of Caliber 69000 have a counter for 12 elapsed hours at the 9, it’s absent from the Portugieser chronograph, as is the date across the dial at the 3. With reference to this watch’s history and to further enhance the harmony of its design, this newest Portugieser only has a 30-minute counter at the 12 and no luminous material on its numerals, indexes or hands.

Turning the timepiece over and peering through its back, where four screws affix the sapphire crystal, you can discover numerous details typical of IWC’s caliber construction, e.g., circular patterns in Geneva-stripes style, satin finishes, circular graining and a skeletonized rotor engraved with the words “Probus Scafusia.” Our test confirmed that the automatic movement upholds this promise of quality. It ran extremely well and achieved well-balanced rate values. Its performance on the wrist was similar to the rate measured by our timing machine when the watch was fully wound. Timekeeping in chronograph mode is likewise impeccable, with an average daily deviation of about 1 second.

The Portugieser Chronograph Reflects Timelessness and Modernity The stopwatch functions are controlled by pressing mushroom-shaped push-pieces. The pressure points here are secure and the buttons run smoothly to reliably trigger the column wheel. The knurled crown is user friendly and can easily be pulled outward into the hand-setting position. These components complement the classic Portugieser case, which reveals its conical contours when viewed from the side. The narrow, polished bezel extends beyond the middle part of the case, thus providing plenty of space for the dial. The screwed back tapers toward the sapphire crystal with a concave edge curve. The case’s laterally satin-finished middle section slopes very strongly downward to the strap lugs. All this, together with the high-quality alligator leather strap and its convenient butterfly folding clasp makes it comfortable to wear on the wrist.

A quick look at the wrist immediately offers a pleasant surprise because our “good old friend” now indulges in a lively play of colors. Viewed through its domed and anti-reflective sapphire crystal, the dial doesn’t appear green from every angle, but changes its appearance from dark green to nearly black, which endows this classic watch with understated elegance. Whether by coincidence or on purpose, in this way too the Portugieser chronograph embodies the timeless modernity for which IWC is known and appreciated.

SPECS: Manufacturer: IWC Schaffausen, Baumgartenstrasse 15, 8200 Schaffausen, Switzerland Reference number: IW371615 Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph (central elapsed- seconds hand, counter for up to 30 elapsed minutes) Movement: IWC 69355 based on caliber family 69000, automatic, 28,800 vph, 27 jewels, Glucydur balance, Nivarox hair-spring, Etachron fine adjustment via bi-partite index, Incabloc shock absorption, 46-hour power reserve, diameter = 30.0 mm, height = 7.90 mm Case: Stainless steel with domed sapphire crystal above dial anti-reflectively treated on both sides, sapphire crystal in caseback, water resistant to 30 meters Strap and cla­­sp: Black alligator leather strap with double folding clasp Rate results (deviation in seconds per 24 hours, fully wound/after 24 hours: On the wrist +1.6 Dial up +3.1 / +1.4 Dial down +2.5 / +0.0 Crown up -0.5 / -3.5 Crown down +4.1 / +4.4 Crown left -0.3 / -0.8 Greatest deviation 4.6 / 7.9 Average deviation +1.8 / +0.3 Average amplitude: Flat positions 321° / 292° Hanging positions 296° / 267° Dimensions: Diameter = 40.95 mm, height = 13.08 mm, weight = 90.0 g Variations: With burgundy dial (Ref. IWC371616; $7,950); Boutique Edition with rose-gold case, blue dial and blue strap (Ref. IW371614; $17,800) Price: $7,950

A very interesting and professional article. Generally think the portugieser, especially with the manufactur movement, is a Wonderful watch with is pretty much underrated.

Brilliant watch and hard to evaluate. I have a 2001 version, unworn and in a wooden box. It is a limited edition split second model and not worth a lot as with many high end watches. As with most IWCs hard to better and very underrated.

Love this watch! From the first time I saw it in the metal, I wanted it. I have the blue dial 150th anniversary version which I just adore.

My son got one 20 years ago and is still very happy with this wonderful timepiece. Within my vast collection I have various IWC, including a priceless D’Avinci, and hold the marque in very high esteem.

Nice watch, but for the price asked I`d probably buy something else…

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The New IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Live Pics & Pricing)

A larger case, subtle design tweaks and a new bracelet for the most nautical portugieser in the collection..

A decade after its maiden voyage, the third-generation Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Ref. 3907) sails into port. The novelties are a larger case size, the relocation of the date window, some fine-tuning on the dial and a new metal bracelet. Still ticking to the tune of in-house automatic calibre 89361 with a flyback function and a unique chronograph display using one dial to indicate elapsed hours and minutes, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph comes in three iterations. The sportiest of the Portugieser family, the latest revamp of the Yacht Club has notched up the dress factor of the watch considerably. Just ahead of the official Watches & Wonders digital launch, we were able to spend some time with these three models.

Brief History of the Yacht Club

The Yacht Club, as we know it today, made its debut in 2010. However, there was a 1967 Yacht Club antecedent. This first Yacht Club (Ref. 811) was a three-hand and date model with an extremely robust shock-absorption system and marketed as a sporty alternative to the Ingenieur. Ten years later, in the midst of the quartz crisis, designer Gerald Genta turned his hand to the Yacht Club II and fitted it with an octagonal bezel. Only a few thousand mechanical pieces were produced converting them into a coveted collector’s item.

Revived in 2010, the Yacht Club became a part of the Portugieser family and was endowed with a sophisticated flyback chronograph movement based on the first manufacture chronograph movement (83960) to be developed in its entirety in Schaffhausen in 2007. As a flyback chronograph, you can stop, reset and start the chrono functions with one button – designed to record consecutive events without having to sacrifice valuable seconds. The particularity of this flyback chronograph was the display: instead of two individual counters for the elapsed hours and minutes, these were housed in one single sub-dial at 12 o’clock reserving the second sub-dial at 6 o’clock for the running seconds.

Although the Portugieser line is not populated by sports watches, the incorporation of the Yacht Club made sense; if you recall, the first 1939 Portugieser was, in fact, a downsized nautical marine chronometer made at the behest of two Portuguese businessmen who wanted the precision of a marine chronometer in wristwatch format.

As a sports watch with a nautical theme, the 2010 Yacht Club came with 60m water-resistance and crown protectors along with pushers shaped like bollards. The watch also sported luminous hands and markers. However, as a member of the elite Portugieser family, it displayed hallmark traits like the large 45.4mm round case, the railroad minutes track, the elegant leaf-shaped hands and the applied Arabic numerals.

3Rd-Gen IWC Portugieser Yacht Club

Over the past ten years, the case size of the Yacht Club has fluctuated. Starting with a case size of 45.4mm in 2010, it was then whittled down to 43.5mm and now, in 2020, appears with a diameter of 44.6mm and a height of 14.4mm. It’s worth remembering that the original Portugieser was an extremely large watch in its day and the collection has always flaunted large watches in keeping with the spirit of its venerable 1939 ancestor.

The models we had for our hands-on session are the two-tone steel and gold model and the steel model with a blue dial or with a white dial with blue accents. The rounded rose gold bezel and the plain steel bezel are polished, a decorative motif that is echoed on the rounded and polished ingot-shaped central links on the steel bracelet. A novelty for 2020, the bracelet is exceptionally well crafted and supple on the wrist displaying contrasting matte brushed links and the raised and polished central link. The other steel elements on the case, the lugs, the pushers and the crown guards are also polished to contrast with the matte finish on the bracelet.

Subtle changes on the dial

The dial has also undergone some subtle changes, no doubt aided by the increase in size of this 2020 edition. The deep-set dial still features the quarter-second scale on the flange for measurements of shorter intervals indicated by the central chronograph hand, but you’ll notice how the sub-dial at 12 o’clock for the combined hours and minutes of the chronograph has more space around it and no longer ‘hits’ the double markers above. Another big change is the relocation of the date window from 3 o’clock to its new home inside the small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock, a much neater solution. The inscription IWC Schaffhausen has switched from left to right and the words Yacht Club that were formerly inside the small seconds counter are now inscribed on the dial to the right of the 9 o’clock marker.

One thing that strikes us an unusual, however, is the substitution of the central red chronograph hand for a hand to match the material of the hour and minute hands, in the case of these two models, gold-plated for the two-tone and rhodium-plated for the blue dial model. It is more difficult to consult elapsed times now – although there is a red hand on the dial that corresponds to the small seconds. As with all Portugieser watches, the Arabic numerals are applied. Depending on the model, in gold or rhodium-plated. The hands are classic leaf-shaped with a streak of lume down the centre to match the luminescence of the blocks placed on the railway minute track to highlight the hours.

The overall effect is one of balance and harmony, less sporty, perhaps even dressier for some than its predecessor.

In-House Movement

The heart of the chronograph is IWC’s 89361 manufacture calibre with a flyback function at 12 o’clock displaying the measured hours and minutes (co-axial). There is also a date display at 6 o’clock. It beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz) with a sizeable 68-hour power reserve. This in-house automatic has 38 jewels and is a workhorse for IWC, powering many of its chronographs of the last decade.

Bracelet and Price

As mentioned, the bracelet is a novelty this year for the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph and all three models are equipped with this ergonomic bracelet, with a micro-adjusting system. The price of the two-tone steel and 18k rose gold model (Ref. IW390703) is CHF 20,500 or EUR 19,300  and the steel models (Ref. IW390701 and IW390702) are priced at  CHF 13,500 or EUR 12,700 . More information at iwc.com .

Technical specifications – IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

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A Smaller IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Still Looms Large

IWC tweaked the size of its sporty Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph — and now it’s even better than before.

By Jason Heaton

1 original photo

When Boston native Florentine Ariosto Jones arrived in Switzerland in the mid-1860s to set up a watch company based on the modern industrial techniques of the American watch industry, he found little welcome in Geneva. So he headed east to Schaffhausen, where he found a small community of watchmakers who built timepieces in the German tradition — less artisanal flourish, more overbuilt sturdiness — and a river to power a factory. It seemed an ideal place to put down stakes; Jones settled there, built workshops on the bank of the Rhine and called his new company the International Watch Company.

Throughout the 20th century, IWC watches evolved from its first sturdy pocketwatches to the pilot’s watches worn by both German and British air force flyers to groundbreaking dive watches and antimagnetic scientists’ timepieces. The overriding theme of all of these watches was rugged and innovative practicality. In the 1930s, some Portuguese watch retailers approached IWC with a request to build a handful of oversized watches with accurate pocket watch movements. These large wristwatches went against the trend of the day, which favored smaller diameters, but swimming against the tide was not unusual for IWC and the Portuguese went on to become perhaps IWC’s most recognizable and beloved watch line.

Any deeper and it dips into dive watch territory, a place no skipper wants to be during an afternoon on the water.

At the SIHH watch fair in January, IWC debuted a refresh of its Portugieser ( auf Deutsch, natürlich ) family of watches. Cases returned to traditional design cues, with more graceful lines and some vintage-inspired dials. New movements and complications were added, like a beautiful annual calendar and a halo timepiece, the grand complication. One piece carried over from the previous generation is the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, a decidedly sporty watch with a name that is a nod to both the historic Portugieser family and a 1970s IWC called the Yacht Club.

IWC has always been known for its oversized watches and the last iteration of the Yacht Club Chrono was no exception at a burly 45mm. But the new version received a slight tweak and now comes in at a more svelte 43.5mm, which doesn’t seem like a big change, but on the wrist it is a far better-proportioned and more comfortable watch. The movement inside is IWC’s innovative in-house 89365 calibre, with a healthy 68-hour power reserve and a combined hour/minute counter that makes elapsed time read-off intuitive and quick. With its seafaring name, it stands to reason that IWC fits the watch with a rubber strap and a screw-in crown, giving it a respectable 60 meters of water resistance. Any deeper and it dips into dive watch territory, a place no skipper wants to be during an afternoon on the water.

Since 2011, IWC has been the official timekeeper of the round-the-world sailing Volvo Ocean Race, and the Yacht Club Chronograph, the watch given to the team that sets the record for the fastest 24-hour time during the race. It is a fitting watch for this epic race, in name and design, though, bashing through 40-foot waves rounding Cape Horn, we might be inclined to stow it in our kit bag, given its $12,000 sticker price.

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• IWC Schaffhausen
• Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

• Manufacturer Reference # IW390701
• Case Size 45 mm diameter
• Case Material Stainless Steel
• Movement Automatic
• Case Thickness 14 mm
• Water Resistance 60 meters
• Strap/Bracelet Material Stainless Steel
• Mint - Mint condition
• Excellent - Like new – may have slight surface scratches
• Very Good - May have any of the following: light scratches; slightly stretched bracelet; patina on dial, hands, or bezel
• Item Number IWC0142812
• Features Chronograph, Date, Power Reserve
• Collection Portugieser
• Gender Men's
• Case Shape: Round
• Crystal Sapphire
• Dial Color Blue
• Dial Markers Arabic
• Movement Caliber 89361
• Strap/Bracelet Bracelet
• Country of Origin Switzerland

IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

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The Mareo series demonstrates authenticity in form with a powerful elegance. Its Flyback style allows the recording of consecutive times due to the movement of its hands flying back. Rendered in double-domed sapphire crystal, this chronograph makes a bold statement.

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IWC Schaffhausen

• Portugieser Collection

Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

Thanks to its ruggedness and water-resistance, the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is the perfect companion on deck and ashore.

Stainless steel –  Automatic – 44.6mm

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Detailed features & specifications

As a nautical sports watch, the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph combines timeless elegance with ruggedness and a 6 bar water-resistance. These characteristics make it an extremely versatile timepiece that exudes a beautiful figure both on water and on land. The filigree bezel and flat case ring lend the case with its 44-millimetre diameter expressly elegant proportions.

The dial of this sporty chronograph impresses with typical Portugieser design features such as the characteristic minute scale and the appliquéd Arabic numerals. This model combines a silver-plated dial with blue hands and appliqués.

The IWC-manufactured 89361 calibre with flyback function displays the stopped times combined in a single totalizer at “12 o’clock” and features a power reserve of 68 hours. The high-quality stainless-steel bracelet with polished and satin-finished surfaces ensures a perfect fit on the wrist.

• Movement : Automatic, Self-Winding
• Calibre : 89361
• Crystal : See-through sapphire glass back
• Functions : Chronograph function with hours, minutes and seconds, Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock, Flyback function, Date display, Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides, Small hacking seconds
• Water Resistance : 6 bar
• Bracelet Strap : Stainless steel strap
• Power Reserve : 68 hours

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Review IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown”

IWC Schaffhausen  and  Orlebar Brown have announced back in July their collaboration piece, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” . Due to the travelling and general restriction imposed by the infamous COVID19, I have seen the watch in the metal just at the end of August. Even if the summer is over, the “Orlebar Brown” Portugieser Yacht Club deserves to be presented – a lovely addition in the Portugieser Collection and a nice collaboration. 

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown”

I loved this watch from its digital launch. So I was very happy to finally get to see it at IWC Geneva Boutique during the Geneva Watch Days. The watch looks much better in the metal than the pictures reveal so if you are interested, I recommend to see it live.

Portugieser at heart, Portugieser in the look

The Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is one of those more special Portugieser – while keeping the known general aspects, some details are personalised by the Orlebar Brown collaboration.

The watch comes in a large 44.6 mm stainless steel case. Its dimensions are not obvious, the Edition “Orlebar Brown” wearing, as all the Portugieser large pieces, smaller than expected.

The case is designed to fit comfortable a large variety of wrist sizes. The caseband integrates the inward bent lugs. Even the brushing is extended on the lugs’ sides for a homogenous look. The rest of the surfaces are mirror polished. The strap integration is realised without any empty spaces.

The IWC Probus Scafusia decorated crown is surrounded by a raised polished crown protection. The protection bump also integrates the chrono pushers. The pushers have a wide but relatively thin topper. The entire appearance is nicely designed. The case details are quite handsome.

One of the eye-catching details of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is the strap. The blue rubber strap with textile inlay looks charming and offer very comfortable wear. It contributes to the smaller wear of the elegantly-proportioned case.

The buckle bears the sign of the IWC and Orlebar Brown collaboration deeply engraved in the metal. This buckle offers a secure sit on the wrist and it is a nice combination for the watch and strap.

A dial inspired by sea and sailing

The IWC Yacht Club “Orlebar Brown” has a gorgeous dial combining bleu-marine, white and red. With a vertical layout, the watch has a handsome face. The 12 o’clock areal presents the 60 minutes and 12 hours chronograph totaliser. The stepped down sub-dial presents two registers: the minutes counter on a circular pattern with white and red printing; the hours’ counter is central with printing on a flat surface. The elements are well delimited and offer good legibility. The chronograph’s seconds indication is realised with a central red hand that runs against the white inner bezel with blue printing.

The time display uses central hours and minutes elongated leaf hands with skeletonised centre and SuperLuminova fill. The hours’ indexes have double representation: applied metal Arabic numeral with the Portugieser known font and short baton indexes with SuperLuminova fill – another rather familiar detail. The minutes use a white printed railtrack that can also serve as an indication for the central chrono hands for an ease in legibility.

The lower side of the dial, at 6 o’clock, presents the running seconds. The subdial is subtly recessed and it is decorated with a circular pattern in the same granulation as the one met at the chrono’s minutes’ counter. The indexes and numerals are printed in blue. The date is printed in black on a white background and can be easily observed via a windowed aperture, as part of the small seconds’ dial.

As additional decoration, the dial of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” bears the name of the brand at 3 o’clock and the “Yacht Club” name at 9 o’clock. The Swiss-made marking is displayed at 6 o’clock as a break in the minute’s railtrack.

Calibre 89361 – a classic IWC movement

The Orlebar Brown Yacht Club is powered by the impressive Calibre 89361. This automatic movement powered by a 4Hz balance wheel offers an impressive set of features like the flyback chrono, hacking seconds, quick set date and a long power reserve of 68 hours due to its double barrel design and bi-directional winding.

Calibre 89361 is used in several IWC families for chronographs: Ingenieur, Da Vinci, Aquatimer , Pilot and, of course, Portugieser . The movement uses a double-clutch design with a vertical clutch for coupling and a column wheel for actuation. The combination of the two decreases the wear of the gear train with an increase of reliability over time. The system also helps the overall chronometry by decreasing the loss of amplitude by the chrono’s activation. Looking at the winding mechanism, I was wondering if this is the four pawl system patented by Jean-Francois Mojon and Norberto Perucchi fifteen years ago?

The movement does not particularly excel on the finishes side. Mostly industrial but fine and well-executed, the adornment of the Calibre 89361 deserves a look through the exhibition case back.

It has the looks, it has the brains

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is a beautiful watch with a pleasant layout and nice colour scheme. The look can be overshadowed only by the technically impressive in-house movement, the Calibre 89361. The back offers a compelling view too.

Definitively, it has a sporty appearance. Regardless if worn as a daily driver, at the beach or by sailing, the watch offers comfortable wear even for smaller wrists.  I have an 18cm/7inch wrist and I usually tend to stop at a diametre of 41-42mm. But I didn’t realise how big the watch actually is. So a strong point for a small wrist to give it a chance.

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” Technical Specifications and Price

REF. IW390704

• Chronograph function with hours, minutes and seconds
• Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock
• Flyback function
• Date display
• Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
• Small hacking seconds
• 89361 Calibre
• IWC-manufactured movement
• Automatic, self-winding
• 68 hours Power Reserve
• Frequency 28800.0 vph (4.0 Hz)
• 299 Components
• Côtes de Genève, perlage
• Stainless steel case
• Diameter 44.6  mm
• Height 14.3  mm
• Screw-in crown
• See-through sapphire glass back
• Water-resistance 6 bar
• Blue dial with luminescence
• Blue rubber strap with textile inlay
• Strap width 22 mm
• 11.800 € , Price includes taxes and shipping.

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IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph ‘Summer Edition’ Watch

Born from a desire to wear chino shorts, boat shoes, and a Hawaiian shirt,  IWC is bringing forth a new summer timepiece known as the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph “Summer Edition” watch. The Portugieser line has been a mainstay for IWC for many years now and is often the line that the Schaffhausen manufacturer exercises their implementations of complicated movements with. The watch is designed with a deliberate nod to the casual. As I alluded to earlier it would be at home on a leisure yacht or a classy Caribbean resort. It has a blue panda dial, with the minute and hour counter for the chronograph sitting at noon and the ticking seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock. There are also red accents running up the middle of the top half of the dial to compliment the seconds hand.

The watch is sized well at 43.5mm wide and 14.2mm thick. IWC made use of their manufacture caliber 89361 that includes the double register at noon, flyback chronograph function, and a 68-hour power reserve. Flipping the watch over you’re treated to a display back that shows off the movement. IWC, as you’d expect, did a great job decorating the movement including a signed rotor. In addition to this watch, IWC has announced a limited collection of fabric straps to accompany their Summer Edition releases.

Nearly three years ago my wife and parents kidnapped me for my birthday and took me to Bequia.  The trip was full of hot climate, rum drinks, and even a sailboat trip to the Tobago Cays; this is where I see this watch fitting in with the exception of one characteristic, the depth rating. I love the aesthetic, and I think that IWC accurately captured the spirit of warm weather and summer vacation, but with a depth rating of 60m, I am dubious of what would happen should you fall overboard. I suppose technically 60m should be fine for swimming. However, I’m not sure how many folks would risk it with a watch at this price. Depth rating aside, this is a handsome watch with a nicely polished case and an attractive blue sunburst dial. The display back on the watch adds a great element of intricacy to the piece allowing you to see the in-house chronograph working away – that’s always a great added benefit.

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph “Summer Edition” is in my opinion, a great addition to what is an otherwise very dressy line from IWC. I question their choice on a depth rating for this watch, and they’ve even gone so far as to put the watch on a rubber strap (from what I can tell) when you purchase it. Apart from that, I believe this would be a fine addition to someone’s summer excursion kit. The Summer Edition IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph’s release date will be announced shortly and the watch will be available for $12,100 . iwc.com

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Portugieser

Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

Stainless steel case, Automatic, self-winding, Diameter 44.6 mm, Blue dial with luminescence, Stainless steel bracelet, Strap width 22.0 mm.

IWC Sustainability

IWC Schaffhausen goes beyond engineering precision timepieces to ensuring we do so in a responsible and sustainable way - ENGINEERING BEYOND TIME

Watch Details

• Stainless steel case
• Diameter 44.6 mm
• Height 14.3 mm
• Screw in crown
• See-through sapphire glass back
• Water resistance 10.0 bar

• 89361 Calibre
• IWC-manufactured movement
• Automatic, self-winding
• 68 hours Power Reserve
• Frequency 28'800 VPH (4 Hz)
• 299 Components
• Côtes de Genève

• Central hacking seconds
• Small hacking seconds
• Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
• Date display
• Flyback function
• Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock
• Chronograph function with hours, minutes and seconds

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Thanks to its ruggedness and water-resistance, the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is the perfect companion on deck and ashore.

As a nautical sports watch, the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph combines timeless elegance with ruggedness and a 6 bar water-resistance. These characteristics make it an extremely versatile timepiece that exudes a beautiful figure both on water and on land. The filigree bezel and flat case ring lend the stainless-steel case with its 44-millimetre diameter expressly elegant proportions. The dial of this sporty chronograph impresses with typical Portugieser design features such as the characteristic minute scale and the appliquéd Arabic numerals. This model combines a blue dial with rhodium-plated hands and appliqués. The IWC-manufactured 89361 calibre with flyback function displays the stopped times combined in a single totalizer at "12 o’clock" and features a power reserve of 68 hours. The high-quality stainless-steel bracelet with polished and satin-finished surfaces ensures a perfect fit on the wrist.

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Portugieser Yacht Club, Reference IW390202 | A pink gold chronograph wristwatch with date | Circa 2010

Important Watches: Part II

Les enchères pour ce lot sont terminées

May 15, 11:40 AM GMT

8,000 - 12,000 CHF

Description du lot

Description

Dial:  anthracite

Calibre:  cal. 89360 automatic, 40 jewels

Movement number:  3’005'167

Case:  18k pink gold, screw-down sapphire crystal display back 

Case number:  3’583’396

Closure:  black rubber IWC strap and 18k pink gold folding clasp

Size:  45 mm diameter

Signed:  case, dial and movement

Box:  yes

Accessories: blank IWC warranty card, polishing cloth and presentation case

Rapport d'état

Avis supplémentaires et clauses de non-responsabilité

Please note that Condition 12 of the Conditions of Business for Buyers is not applicable to this lot.